Interislander lashings

[Jonty]

Ok guys

I am about to put the pride and joy on the Kaitaki in 1 1/2 weeks and to be honest I am a little nervous. I am not sure how I will handle 4 meter swells with my baby sitting next to a tandem truck and trailer unit ready to squash it into the condtion of WT's new CBR:bleh:

I have trawled thruugh posts of KB'ers who have made the trip and how they tied her down (unfortunately none were bike specific). Anyway, I took their advice and bought 4 new tie downs and went to the garage to practice my lashing technique. Well first thing I noticed is there is no way those little hooks will hang on anything in the handlebar region. So my proposal is to use the loop end and loop around the end of each handle bar and anchor to a spot out in front of the bike while compressing the front suspension. The back tiedowns should be less of a problem.

My question is should a lose loop on the handle bar be sufficient if the suspension is fully compressesed or is it likely to slip of if it gets a bit of knocking?

If anyone has done this and is familiar with the fairing limitaion of tmy Cibber I would appreciate advice.:2thumbsup

[vifferman]

What you've proposed sounds OK.
This is a problem for all/most sprots bikes, due to the fairings getting in the way.
Here's one solution: http://www.canyondancer.com/

Another is to use looped rope, tiedown or whatever off the handlebars, then attach the tiedowns to that instead of directly to the bike (hard to describe). As long as whatever you do is tight, uses the suspension to keep some tension on the tiedowns, doesn't rub against paintwork, and can't come undone easily, you should be fine.

[Jonty]

What you've proposed sounds OK.
This is a problem for all/most sprots bikes, due to the fairings getting in the way.
Here's one solution: http://www.canyondancer.com/

Another is to use looped rope, tiedown or whatever off the handlebars, then attach the tiedowns to that instead of directly to the bike (hard to describe). As long as whatever you do is tight, uses the suspension to keep some tension on the tiedowns, doesn't rub against paintwork, and can't come undone easily, you should be fine.

Cheers for that. That canyon gizmo is exactly what I need. I may try and make up something like that this week.

[k14]

When i've ever tied down a bike (be it on the ferry or in my van) i always have tied it to either the top or bottom tripple clamp and then compressed the forks about 15mm or so. Never had a problem doing it this way. Also don't use the hook directly onto the part of the bike. Loop the strapping around the bit you want to attach it to (eg handle bar etc) and then put the hook back onto the strap itself, thats the way i've always done it anyway.

[750Y]

i went on there one time (aratika or arahura) it was nearly burying the nose. they shut it down when we got to picton. strap that beast down good 8-)

[skelstar]

I have some slings (closed loop of strapping) that I have used for rock climbing/alpine. They are good up to about 22KN (static). Wanna borrow one (maybe two if I can find them)?

[vifferman]

When i've ever tied down a bike (be it on the ferry or in my van) i always have tied it to either the top or bottom tripple clamp and then compressed the forks about 15mm or so. Never had a problem doing it this way.
Can't do this on a sprotsbike if the fairing's in the way.

[Jonty]

Can't do this on a sprotsbike if the fairing's in the way.

Yep - thats the problem I have. Skels maybe a prussick is the way to go. I'll let you know cheers.

[Lou Girardin]

Go to your local friendly bike shop and get some WFO bar-harnesses, $29.00 inc.
Or I can send you some.

[k14]

Can't do this on a sprotsbike if the fairing's in the way.
All the bikes i have tied down this way are sports bikes, with fairings. It sometimes does take a bit of stuffing around but normally is possible to avoid them. Specially if you do it to the bottom tripple clamp, you can sometimes avoid the fairing all together. Depends on bike though.

[tl_tub]

No recommendations on strapping yours down, as with my bike I always attached the tiedowns in the middle of the frame and pulled it down on its suspension while balancing the load on the sidestand so the bottom wouldnt slide out.

All I will say is, be careful of the ship employees. I once had one try to put a truck tiedown over my petrol tank - forget the scratches, worry about the new pancake shape! That was on the 'fast ferry' though and only happened once.

All the best!

[inlinefour]

Ok guys

I am about to put the pride and joy on the Kaitaki in 1 1/2 weeks and to be honest I am a little nervous. I am not sure how I will handle 4 meter swells with my baby sitting next to a tandem truck and trailer unit ready to squash it into the condtion of WT's new CBR:bleh:

I have trawled thruugh posts of KB'ers who have made the trip and how they tied her down (unfortunately none were bike specific). Anyway, I took their advice and bought 4 new tie downs and went to the garage to practice my lashing technique. Well first thing I noticed is there is no way those little hooks will hang on anything in the handlebar region. So my proposal is to use the loop end and loop around the end of each handle bar and anchor to a spot out in front of the bike while compressing the front suspension. The back tiedowns should be less of a problem.

My question is should a lose loop on the handle bar be sufficient if the suspension is fully compressesed or is it likely to slip of if it gets a bit of knocking?

If anyone has done this and is familiar with the fairing limitaion of tmy Cibber I would appreciate advice.:2thumbsup


Went over in Feb and they take good care of all the vehicles. I'd not hesitate taking my bike over the straight. Besides, they are wimps. They never go out if there is a bit of nasty weather. Been over in weather I consider half decient in a fishing boat and they are refusung to sail...:whocares:

[vinducati]

I always use 4 tie-downs, and put a strap around the front brake.
In gear of course, And the have handy little rubber chocks to stuff under the wheels.

[geoffm]

What others said - buy decent tiedowns (Aerofast). Fronts onto the bottom triple clamp, with one of the rubber wedges against the front wheel, and another pair of tiedowns on the back, pulling backwards. Never had one move.
Geoff

[Scorpygirl]

Rhino has taken the Goldwing 1500 over and back several times. The best thing is to buy really good tiedowns/ rachets and then find the best places on the bike for them and then line your bike in the best place to attach them too. Also use chocks if they are available.

[Divot]

What ever you do TAKE YOUR OWN tie downs. 4 of them. And find out how to do it corectly. Ask a Racer or Dirt bike rider to SHOW you how. Then you wont have any problems.

[oldrider]

The worst thing about ferry crossings is having your own bike secure with a couple of retards either side of yours coming loose and recking your bike! :slap:
Has not happened to me but definitely has happened to a couple of my mates.:yes: Were they ever pissed off! :angry2:
You do not have to use excessive compression on your suspension you might do damage to your fork seals.
Put the bike in position on the side stand. Pull your ties down on the stand side then pull the other side down firmly then tie a rubber block under each wheel. It will move about a little if its rough but it wont be going anywhere.(They supply the blocks)
I believe you should get good ties and carry them under the seat all the time ferry crossings are just one part of the journey.
You will have more bother waiting outside in the rain for a ferry that is invariably an hour late.:doh: Cheers John.

[Mooch]

Have taken bikes on the Interislander a number of times, normally take own ties rather than using rope with hooks provided. For the bad crossings the trucks a well chained down so it'll probably be your neighbours bike that may cause issues. The Ferry workers are normally good if asked one how to tie the bike down and will help after the cars / trucks have been parked. Bikes are normally allowed on first to give you more time to sort it out.

I normally use two triangle shapes to tie the bike down, the front going around the handle bars and down forward out to two eye points. The back starts around the bracket for the rear foot peg, out to a eye on the side, then across to the rear wheel, around the wheel and provided wheel chock, out to an eye on the other side and back to the foot peg bracket on the other side. The tie downs are then tighten until the bike compress on its suspension, but don't tighten too much as you may bend your side stand.
For the front tie downs if the ties are touching fairing put something between them (like gloves) to stop abrasion to the paint.
Also check the bikes either side of you, if you don't like the way they are tied down then tell the owners / give them a hand.

[NinjaBoy]

All the bikes i have tied down this way are sports bikes, with fairings. It sometimes does take a bit of stuffing around but normally is possible to avoid them. Specially if you do it to the bottom tripple clamp, you can sometimes avoid the fairing all together. Depends on bike though.

On my F4 there is just enough room to thread the loop through the gaps in fairing under the front cowl. Just make sure when you loop it around the triple clamps that the webbing isn't rubbing on a sharp surface eg. cable clips or such like.

[T.I.E]

thanks people good advice for me too. thought the idea of the front hand brake lever being tied up was a useful also, and with the rubber chocks i'm sure it wouldn't move.

[LB]

.
.
Not sure if someone's said this already (half asleep....) but I always leave mine in gear, rocked forward till it locks (couple of inches usually).

Never had any problems. More worried about bikes next to mine that aren't tied down propertly than my own one (though never had any problems). Have had a couple of pretty rough crossings and the bike's always been fine.

Happy to show you Hamish's handlebar harness if you want to have a look - flick me an email if you want me to bring it into work. (away today though, on 6.30am flight to Auckland to go to the racing at Pukekohe - yeehar!!)

Take care riding in particular if it's wet. Railway lines are a bastard. The steel floor can be quite slippery - take care getting off - wet steel/boots sometimes slippery.
.
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[heavenly.talker]

Hey

I have just bought a book for our South Island tour called
Great Escapes: A Guide to Motorcylcling Touring in New Zealand by Peter Mitchell.

On page 90 he gives this advice:

Crossing Cook Strait.

…the Cook Strait has a deserved reputation for rough seas, and if your are even remotely likely to encounter strong winds then steps should be taken to protect your motorcycle from damage.

Even before you park your motorcycle inside the ferry, there are dangers to be faced. The steel ramps leading onto the ferry can get very slippery from sea spray, rain, diesel and oil spills. Traction is limited, and any braking must be done with extreme caution.

Secondly, cargo decks and entrance ramps may be grooved with railway tracks, which can be deadly traps for motorcycle wheels. Take maximum care.

The ferry staff should offer to strap your motorcycle down, and such strapping usually consists of a large ratchet strap or rope with hooks extending over the seat and fastened to the deck at about 45 degrees out from the centre of the motorcycle. With a bit of luck, padding will be placed over the seat to protect it. The motorcycle is usually placed on its centre stand. Motorcyclists have experienced a wide variation in staff skills and attention to motorcycle, so the following steps are recommended:

1. Instead of using the centre stand, place your motorcycle on its side stand. This gives the motorcycle three points of contact with the steel deck rather than two and is considered more stable.
2. Either leave your motorcycle in first gear or, preferably, strap your hand brake so that it is firmly ‘on’. A strong rubber band, an old piece of inner tube (approx. 30mm wide), or even a belt will suffice.
3. Once placed on the side stand, four straps are recommended – two at each end of the motorcycle, fastening the front and rear forks to the deck much as guy ropes fasten a traditional tent. Experienced travellers carry their own adjustable webbing or ratchet straps for this task. When tightening the webbing straps it is advisable to take weight off the side stand by almost pulling the motorcycle upright.
4. The Ferry staff may still add their central seat strap for safety, but make sure the heat is protected from damage or pinching.
5. Lastly, make sure all valuables are removed from the motorcycle and taken with you to the passenger area. All saddle bags should be locked, or securely fastened to prevent pilfering.

With a bit of luck, the above should see your beloved motorcycle safely across the Cook Strait.

Hope that helps :-)
Totally recommend the book even though it is now 5 years old (published in 2000 by Longacre Press).
Have fun and take care
K

[Jonty]

Thanks for all your advice. I imagine I will have the bike wrapped up like a christmas present so it aint going anywhere!!

[Pixie]

The cheap tie downs you get from Mitre 10 for $10 are perfectly adequate
They are good for 300kg ea
I didn't use the hooks,but doubled the strap trough the buckle/winder and put the loop round the bars a few times and hooked the loop over the levers

[Dadpole]

Never trust the clamp on the tie-down to hold. I always put a loop in case it slips.

[pritch]

The better modern tie-downs are designed so that the strap part goes around the bars and the hook is further down out of the way.
They have carabiners instead of open hooks at the bottom end.

Use a cable tie or duct tape to hold the front brake on, along with the chocks and it shouldn't go anywhere.