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Skunk
20th December 2005, 19:32
Anyone got the specs for an AX100 engine, not bore and stroke, more the port timings, size etc?
WMCC say they don't (even to buy) and I can't find them on the net (yes I did Google).
Any ideas?

Sketchy_Racer
20th December 2005, 19:37
easy, pull the bore off and measure :yes:

very simple on a two stroke?

why do you want to know?? are ya gonna make up a chamber for it??

Skunk
20th December 2005, 19:44
easy, pull the bore off and measure :yes:

very simple on a two stroke?
I was trying to avoid that - as I don't have anything in the way of tools for that.

why do you want to know?? are ya gonna make up a chamber for it??Maybe... a friend might. I'm sorting the measurements - he's doing the pipe. He reckons a seam-welded two piece is the way to do it. Looks harder to me.

Sketchy_Racer
20th December 2005, 19:45
ill ask ivan to pull the bore off the one he has got and measure it up

Skunk
20th December 2005, 19:53
ill ask ivan to pull the bore off the one he has got and measure it upCan he do the port timings? You need a degree wheel or something don't you?
It'll be good if he can.

Sketchy_Racer
20th December 2005, 19:55
na just a 360degree protractor.....and his old man will probably do it

Bert
20th December 2005, 20:58
you can calc it. if you make a copy of the bore. one way is take the head off. rotate to BDC, slide a single peace of A4 around the bore, and rub with a soft pencil. this will give you a complete copy of your ports. don't forget to mark TDC (look for where the rubbing stops on the bore). once you have this. you know the length of the stroke there fore equals 180 degrees. now all you need is to remember those school maths classes and calc out the timing. PM me it you need more info. though you will still need to take the head off.

Skunk
21st December 2005, 08:58
you can calc it. if you make a copy of the bore. one way is take the head off. rotate to BDC, slide a single peace of A4 around the bore, and rub with a soft pencil. this will give you a complete copy of your ports. don't forget to mark TDC (look for where the rubbing stops on the bore). once you have this. you know the length of the stroke there fore equals 180 degrees. now all you need is to remember those school maths classes and calc out the timing. PM me it you need more info. though you will still need to take the head off.Hmmm, hadn't thought of that. Thanks Bert.

Still have to get the head off though as you say.

Bert
21st December 2005, 17:12
Hmmm, hadn't thought of that. Thanks Bert.

Still have to get the head off though as you say.

yep but that no biggy. I'm sure that the AX100's have a copper head gasket so make sure you undo across the head ie LHS front to the RHS back, RHS front to LHS back. once you have finished follow the same steps, before you do place the head gasket in the oven at 250 degrees for 10 mins this will expland it again and make it like new.

Skunk
21st December 2005, 19:53
yep but that no biggy. I'm sure that the AX100's have a copper head gasket so make sure you undo across the head ie LHS front to the RHS back, RHS front to LHS back. once you have finished follow the same steps, before you do place the head gasket in the oven at 250 degrees for 10 mins this will expland it again and make it like new.Cheeers! You're full of helpful info...

What's the torque settings? :whistle:

Ivan
22nd December 2005, 17:32
Sorry didnt make it over the other night because the meeting was not on will drop it off still some stage ummmmm your best bet is me to do the prt sizes cause if you do a standered barel and make a chamber then get this ported motor you are actually gonna find it will decrease the power I havent forgotten tho I just need to get over there one day

Bert
22nd December 2005, 17:39
Cheeers! You're full of helpful info...

What's the torque settings? :whistle:

cheers

someone might have to correct me but 35 Fp sound right, (i'll dig it out soon). but start lower and do them all up - and work your way up to the correct setting. with the age of these motors its really easy to strip the studs. and its not cheap to fix i just had all of mine replaced with 12mm ones (bases) it went a bit over board cost wise and nothing to show for it. nevermind.

Sketchy_Racer
22nd December 2005, 21:03
yea do be careful with the studs.... i ripped mine out and had to get a stepped stud put in, it wasnt cheap either.....

Skunk
22nd December 2005, 21:25
someone might have to correct me but 35 Fp sound right, (i'll dig it out soon). but start lower and do them all up - and work your way up to the correct setting. with the age of these motors its really easy to strip the studs. and its not cheap to fix i just had all of mine replaced with 12mm ones (bases) it went a bit over board cost wise and nothing to show for it. nevermind.Bugger me... I was half kidding.