First service (me, not it)

[RantyDave]

Hmmmm, OK.

I, sorta, don't like feeling useless. Traditionally this has led me to wanting to fix things myself - typically computers and boats. I detest (home) DIY but that's another story. Anyway, so my bike is coming up for it's first service since I've had it - 9000k + 5000k = 14000k. Through the little window I can see the oil is gross and I feel the urge to do something a little more than just changing the oil - was reckoning on doing the oil filter, probably the air filter (because it's almost certainly never been done) and that'll be me for now. So, some questions:

* So I put something with 1.3l capacity (at least) under the bike and open the drain plug thing. Oil pisses into the bucket. Then what? How do I get rid of it again? I presume pouring it down the drain is frowned upon.

* The oil filter appears to live under a cap thing. Are there standard sizes of oil filters? Is it just a case of taking it to Repco and having them say "oh yeah, that's a size 12" and dropping me a new one or do I need a secret l33t Yamaha oil filter that only the truly blessed are allowed to buy?

* Ditto air filters, although that would appear to be a bitch to get to. Still, nothing that can't be cured with the application of a screwdriver eh?

* Should I do something with the spark plug?

Or would the combination of supplies and the likelihood that I fuck something up indicate that perhaps I'd be best paying an adult to do it during the day while I work at what I pretend to be good at?

BTW, Bike is a Yamaha SR250 "classic" (which at least looks substantially different to the SR250 you'll get if you google for it, pain in the arse that is). Picture in profile.

Cheers,
Dave

[Fatjim]

By the looks of it your doing well to even know there's oil in the sucker. Do you know anybody who can show you? Where in Welly are you?

Get a filter from a dealer and change each time you do the oil.

You'll need a good 15w-40 oil too. Try delo or other top quality dieseil oil.

[RantyDave]

Yeah, I think I might be waving a little white flag on this one. The bike didn't come with a toolkit ... and if it had it might have had the curious tool needed to remove the sump plug. The oil filter was attached with some cross headed screws that are significantly larger than the largest screwdriver I have too. So, I think check it into Boyle's at some point during the week might be a good idea.

In the meanwhile the gathering of correct tools would seem more sensible for the off-my-restricted "first big bike"...

Defeat. Pah.

Dave :(

[T.W.R]

A simple service isn't rocket science, & why pay a shop heaps for the pleasure of being ripped off.

Draining the oil: do it the oil warm (take the bike for a run around the block, then leave it for 10mins) then dump the oil, an old oil container with a face-side cut out is useful enough(keep the lid screwed on). The drain bolt should be a 17mm hex-head. Re-fill with a appropriate grade semi synthetic (doesn't warrent a full synthetic as its low rpm motor & doesn't work hard)

The oil filter is a paper cartridge type, and standard yamaha SR250/2v XT/TT, AG/XT/TT 200/225 etc (get one prior to doing the oil of course, check at repco & the likes as they'll have filter catalogues with details of what filters will fit or just nab one from a Yamaha dealer as its a common filter. The filter housing is has 3 phillips head screws.

Do the oil change fit the new filter, start the bike then bleed the oil through, one bleed nipple on the top of the filter housing cover & one up the back right edge of the cylinder barrel. Do one at a time just release the nipples (10 mm hex bolts) about 3-4 turns, once the oil starts to weep from them tighten them up again, oil cover 1st then the barrel one.

The air filter is simple, remove it check how dirty it is, if its filthy replace it ( if its a paper element) or if its a foam filter wash it in warm soapy water then leave to dry in the sun, once dry re-oil (either proper filter oil or a light grade oil) not excessively though just so it leaves a slightly moist residue on your fingers if you squeeze it. Clean any debris & crud out of the airbox. then re-fit filter.

Remove the plug & check it but at that amount of kms better off chucking a new one in there (should be a standard NGK BP8es or NGK9es) fit a new one to finger tight (with a plug spanner) then go a further 1/4 turn with the spanner.

Hope that helps a bit ;) been a while since had anything to do with those old engines:yeah:

[RantyDave]

Yeah! We are getting there :)

Oil changed - note for newbies, it does not go "bloop bloop bloop" slowly into the bucket, it goes "splosh" and the sump plug falls in as well. I completely spaced doing the bleed valves - I'll do it before work tomorrow. Ditto the spark plug - will do the lunchtime run to Repco again.

But no problems with other stuff. A genuine sense of achievement ... I'm maintaining my own bike :)

Dave

[Vegan]

Yeah man - it's good - Just gave my bike its first in house service - filters from bike stores are cheap and you know exactly what you are getting (ie don't get them at repco) plus repco don't even carry bike oil. I did a radiator flush on mine too - seems the previous owners werent keen on antifreeze - the bike now stays much cooler thanks to a Haynes manual etc....working on the bike is enjoyable if you achieve what you set out to do - but if not - then you want to cap youself quick-smart!