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Indiana_Jones
6th April 2004, 17:02
Any tips for doing a take-off wheelie? :2thumbsup
Did another one when pulling out of a driveway today by acciendent, Now I think I should learn how to control them :ride:

-Indy

Motoracer
6th April 2004, 17:19
Funny you should ask that cause I was just having a hoon on my Mate's FXR 150 and well wheelies had to be tried :devil2: I can't wheelie it as in wheelieing it for a while. I can just get it up, hold it for 2 secs max and down she goes again (no sexual jokes please).

Heres how:

You just got to sit comfertably as far back on the seat as possible (just in the middle of rider and pillion seat area). Then pop it in 1st, get the bike rolling at about 5-10 kmph, then basically rev the tits off it and dump the clutch as you yank on the handel bars to force it up. The bike will come up real easy and you can easily put it back down by using engine braking. Practice for a while and you might learn to keep it going in the balance point. Unfortunatly I didn't get enought time to do this :(

P.S. On last Saturday night, if you saw some dickheads doing little wheelies while 2 up on the FXR in Queen St, that was me and a mate :laugh:

White trash
6th April 2004, 17:21
FXRs are great fun to wheelie as you can basicaly do it a stand still, no high speed injuries.

Keep abusing it and it'll work. Just don't carry your technique over to a more powerfull machine or you'll wind up in traction :shifty:

Motoracer
6th April 2004, 17:27
Hey WT, Since we are on the topic, who better to ask than you. Have you got it going in the balance point on the FXR150?

Oh yea, and I'll remember to not use the same technique on the GSXR, otherwise it'll be :bye: GIXXER as it runs away from under me.

wkid_one
6th April 2004, 17:35
Here you go - I posted this in an earlier thread

How to Wheelie

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For those that want to learn - an article for you (note: I am not, by any stretch of the imagination, good at this)

The basics, or can I wheelie my bike?
If your bike doesn't have a side car, or a trailer, it can probably be wheelied. I've wheelied dirt bikes, street bikes, and a couple of standards. I've seen Harleys, Goldwings, Katanas, and 125's all pawing at the sky. Yes, your bike can wheelie. Wheelies are made up of three parts. The launch, getting the front wheel off the ground. The balancing portion, riding the wheelie as long as you safely can, clicking gears along the way. This is the most difficult part of wheeling to master. And lastly, set down phase, placing the front wheel back on the ground as safely as possible, trying to place as little wear and tear as possible on your bike.


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1) The Launch
The launch isn't the most difficult part of doing a wheelie. But I'll spend the most time on this section, because this is where there is the most variation. The less power you have, the fewer your options are. I'm going to divide the launch into three sections. Rolling it on, suspension help, and clutch help.

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2) Rolling it on
This is probably the safest way, to launch a wheelie, but it doesn't work on an EX-500, or many older 600's. Simply put, just gradually increase your throttle while in first gear, until you are wide open. If your bike has enough power, your front wheel will just come up. I've found this to work very easily on a Suzuki TL1000s, and a Yamaha R1. Didn't work on my 93 900rr, sometimes works on my Kawaski ZX-11. Never works on my pocket bike. If you have a 600 that you want to do this with, just lower the gearing. With race gearing on GSXR600's this technique also works. With the stock gearing, no way in hell. So exactly how do you roll it on. Go to about 1/3 of your tach range in 1st gear, then in the amount of time it takes you to say one-thousand-one, have the throttle at full.

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3) Using Suspensions to help
Ok, so your bike won't roll it on, but you don't want to abuse your clutch. I'm going to talk here about things you can do, that basically assist the roll-on wheelie. This may take practice to work well, but understanding the concepts will apply to any bike. If your bike doesn't do a roll on wheelie, find yourself a steep road, and see if you can wheelie uphill. Is it easier? It should be. The reason why, is that your center of gravity, has already been moved back, lightening your front end. Once you get the wheel off the ground, it takes less power to get it higher.

Those first two inches are the hardest part. Before you ride your bike next time, put both feet on the ground, and push as hard as you can on the front end. Then let it come back up. Practice bouncing the front end up and down. Push hard, and let it come back up. While riding your bike, you can get a similar behavior, by using the throttle. If you whack the throttle open, the front end will come up. At its peak, if you shut the throttle down, engine braking, in combination with the weight of your front end will cause it to go back down. When it's at the bottom of its stroke, if you whack the throttle back open again, you can use the expansion of your front springs, along with your acceleration, to help lift the front wheel. In fact, it doesn't take much at all, to do this.

I'll use my GSXR with stock gearing as an example. I would get going in first gear, so the tach was at about 8500 rpm. Then I would shut the throttle down, then whack it back on. Tugging at the bars a little also helps. This snapping of the throttle is a much quicker movement then rolling your throttle on. Not as quick as you can do it, but I guess that the entire movement should take about 1/2 or less of a second. Basically, go from steady state, shut down, then full open. After some practice you will learn how to time it with your suspension.

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4) Using the clutch
So you still can't get the front wheel to come up? I actually find that clutching it up, gives me the most predictable wheelies than any other method. Why? Its much easier to do exactly the same thing over, and over. Basically get rolling in 2nd gear to an RPM of about 1/3 to 1/2 of your maximum hp. This is what worked well on my GSXR-750, with stock gearing. I would go to about 5000 rpm in 2nd gear. Pull in the clutch, rev the engine a time or two, to time it so that the throttle would be wide open and the clutch releasing as the tach swept 9-10k.

The next thing you know, your front wheel is way up in the air, and your RPM's are at about 8,000 with the throttle full on. At this point, I would have to roll off some, to find the balance point of the bike. As you learn to do this on your own bike, start out conservatively on your clutch release point, and gradually increase the RPM's each time you try it, until the wheel comes up so high you have to roll off the throttle a tad. You may want to cover your rear brake while you are learning this as well, in case you go too high. Standing up fast, will also help put the front end back down if you over do it. Remember these things!

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5) Shifting
Ok, so now you have the front wheel up. How do you keep it up? Shift! It's actually much easier then it seems. When you can ride a long ways in first gear without being full-throttle, you are more than ready to shift. My favorite way to shift, is without the clutch. If you haven't done clutchless shifts before, practice on two wheels first. To do a clutchless shift, apply upward pressure to the shift lever, while you are full on the gas, then just briefly snap the throttle, off an on again. This is the fastest way to shift. When on one wheel, you have to get the front wheel really high, to the point where you need to let off the gas from tipping over. At this point, shift! Balance and practice are both important steps here. Practice those clutchless shifts.

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6) Bringing it down.
So now your front wheel is going down. Either because you got scared and let off the gas, or you just don't have the power to keep it up. Make sure that your front wheel is pointing straight ahead, and keep the throttle open Wide! You want to set the front wheel down as easy as possible. If you chop the throttle, your landing will be very hard, so stay on the gas! Or if you need to come down, just briefly roll off the gas, then get right back on it again, until the front wheel sets down. Expect a chirping noise, and sometimes at higher speeds a bit of a wobble, but as long as the wheel is straight, it's not a big deal.

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7) Body position
Where you place your body during where wheelie can have some interesting effects. If you put all of your weight on your footpegs, and sorta stand up, I've found it easiest to get really close to the balance point this way, but it's more difficult to shift while in that position. My reasoning for why balancing is easier standing, is that I've noticed you don't have to spend so much effort holding your body in place, which is frequently done by your hands pulling back on the handlebars.

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Another reason, could be that your legs are better balance sensors than your butt. In any event, it's definitely worth a try. Hanging off to the side, was something I really started doing without noticing and I was always veering off to one side.

You might do this, so that you can see where you are going. When your front end gets way up in the air, you can't see over it very well. So you might have a tendency to lean over one side to get a glimpse around. What I found out, is that you can steer this way. To keep yourself, in the center of your lane, just hang off, the same as you would if you were riding with no hands.

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8) Does this hurt my Bike?
When you are first learning you will probably do more damage to your bike then during any other time. This is mainly because of missed shifts, or rear brake stomping, or anything that slams your front end down. You may bust a fork seal. You will probably wear out your steering stem bearings faster than normal, and you will definitely need to tighten your steering head down more frequently. You may also wear your rear tire slightly flat, as hard wheelie acceleration wears out the centers more quickly than normal. You will stretch your chain out, if you use the clutch method. Another detriment to the clutch method, aren't clutch wear, but clutch basket wear. The sudden force of the clutch plates against the ears of the basket can notch the basket. This will prevent you from pulling in the clutch, any time there is load on the engine. Of course, all sorts of fasteners may come loose a little faster than normal, I've noticed mirrors and other front end body fasteners in particular want to fall off. So check out em out frequently.

Two Smoker
6th April 2004, 17:42
LOL, would have been funny to see that MR....... Just remember IJ to practice in a deserted carpark before your start doing it from the lights etc.... standing start wheelies are harder, but just build the revs up to peak power reigion and slip the clutch, if its quick enough and powerful enough it should pop the wheel abit.... but if you pop the clutch to much it will bog down and go real slow (after lifting the wheel quite high....) and if you dont let the clutch out enough it wont lift.... Just listen to MT and MR..... they are the ones that know......

jrandom
6th April 2004, 17:44
FXRs are great fun to wheelie as you can basicaly do it a stand still, no high speed injuries.

wot 'e said. Get it rolling at about 5kph, pull the clutch in, rev right to the limit and dump it. Way hey!



Just don't carry your technique over to a more powerfull machine or you'll wind up in traction :shifty:

Oh yeah, that too. Still, your mates might have some good stories to tell after your future 600 or whatever cartwheels away from underneath you as you land on your bum looking sheepish.

jrandom
6th April 2004, 17:50
if you pop the clutch to much it will bog down and go real slow (after lifting the wheel quite high....) and if you dont let the clutch out enough it wont lift...

You tried it on an FXR mate? Not quite as much poke as an RGV150, never any point popping the front if you want to shift off the line quickly. All you can do is loft it and trundle along pointing at the stars for as long as you can keep your balance. There's not enough power to accelerate through the wheelie in 1st.

Shifting into 2nd during a wheelie on the FXR is beyond my limited mortal powers. Could be done I suppose, that'd get you up to about 60kph. Phhhhhhhht. You'd have to balance it all the way though, it wouldn't hold itself up on the power.

Indiana_Jones
6th April 2004, 19:10
Thanks for all the tips guys, good read that wkid_one :kick:
Might praticse sometime and somewhere where it's empty :bleh:

-Indy

fritter
7th April 2004, 23:00
check out http://www.garyrothwell.com/Gary_s_Lessons/gary_s_lessons.html

this is a pretty good guide for stoppies too :)

Obviously unless you've got some reasonable power you'll need to clutch it up, but the bouncing trick works on most bikes quite well (ie roll off throttle to compress the front, then whack it open (how much depends on the bike!)as the suspension springs you back up....

have fun hehe

fritter
7th April 2004, 23:05
oooo by the way make sure you do this on a SMOOTH road when you are first trying it out... I've hit bumps while around the balance point and only through sheer luck managed to land the bike down right way up :)

Even had my feet come off the pegs that day. I slid right back to almost the tail light. Lotsa respect for those 12oclock guys :devil2:

Jackrat
7th April 2004, 23:27
Any tips for doing a take-off wheelie? :2thumbsup
Did another one when pulling out of a driveway today by acciendent, Now I think I should learn how to control them :ride:

-Indy
Well if your planning on doing them on public roads try this.
Keep a sharp eye out for me,more so if I happen to be carrying a brick.

wkid_one
8th April 2004, 08:00
As JR said - how does this fit with the whole 'boy racer' thread that people are commenting on?? Is this not the bike equivilent of boy racerism?

750Y
8th April 2004, 08:25
As JR said - how does this fit with the whole 'boy racer' thread that people are commenting on?? Is this not the bike equivilent of boy racerism?

no, this is actually closer to hooliganism. for a start there's less wheels so only half the bling.

wkid_one
8th April 2004, 08:39
PMPL.........................

fritter
8th April 2004, 19:54
Well of course this sort of behaviour is done only on a private road or track (much better to practice with a dirt bike anyway)-anything else would be just plain silly now wouldn't it? - of course so would anyone who threatened a motorcyclist with a brick :laugh:

Jackrat
8th April 2004, 23:07
Well of course this sort of behaviour is done only on a private road or track (much better to practice with a dirt bike anyway)-anything else would be just plain silly now wouldn't it? - of course so would anyone who threatened a motorcyclist with a brick :laugh:

Ok that was a dumb thing to say,Sorry.
Maybe it is that I have always been a bit jealous of guys that can just pop it up without seeming to try hard.I have pulled a wheel stand on a road bike just once an it gave me such a fright Iv'e never tryed again.That was on a 76 Suzuki GT750 and I damn near flipped the thing.Now days I get that kind of jollys on my dirt bike and I can wheelie all the way down the beach.
That is what I would really advise doing,get a dirt bike an give it heaps,save the road bike for going fast an smooth on twisty roads.I prag my dirt bike so often I now don't feel like I wasn't really trying if I don't.It hurts a lot less in the dirt too. :yes:

fritter
9th April 2004, 11:28
Maybe it is that I have always been a bit jealous of guys that can just pop it up without seeming to try hard.I have pulled a wheel stand on a road bike just once an it gave me such a fright Iv'e never tryed again.That was on a 76 Suzuki GT750 and I damn near flipped the thing.Now days I get that kind of jollys on my dirt bike and I can wheelie all the way down the beach.
That is what I would really advise doing,get a dirt bike an give it heaps,save the road bike for going fast an smooth on twisty roads.I prag my dirt bike so often I now don't feel like I wasn't really trying if I don't.It hurts a lot less in the dirt too. :yes:

I must admit I used to be a complete idiot when I had my ninja250... used to bother me that I couldn't wheelie the thing so I used to redline it and pop the clutch completely. Used to just about reach 12oclock, yet not once did it cross my mind that I could have gone over the back :crazy:

Of course once I graduated to a bigger bike I had those occasions where I realised that going over the back WAS easy to do. That last one I mentioned where my feet came off the pegs put me off doing them for nearly a year lol.

Most of the guys that hoist the front with ease (on a road bike) are either doing the fork bounce (roll off throttle and then crack it open) trick and/or they just have a bike with some grunt.

Seriously though, I have more trouble NOT doing a wheelie on my bike now... I'm not a nut, I just like to accelerate fast when it's safe ie I can see what's around the next corner and that there are no likely hazards on the road I'm on :) I value my life and my limbs, and would rather keep them all attached. Save the stupid stuff for the dirt...

Not to mention the fact that I couldn't afford to bin my bike... The cops have already done that for me (while it was parked might I add :angry2: ) and 6 months later I'm still waiting for them to fix it properly (at least it was cosmetic not mechanical damage). Betya if I'd damaged a cop car they'd have made me sort it out by now. And they wonder why we call them pigs. That's another story though.... if it goes to court (very likely if they don't do something soon) I'll post the results lol.

Indiana_Jones
9th April 2004, 19:56
lol I did another one by mistake, was with my mates at da lights, pull up next to him (he's on GN125) wait for the green.......woosh I'm off and he's left in my smoke :laugh: though he claims he didn't know we were racing :bleh:

-Indy

Motoracer
9th April 2004, 22:03
I am at my mate's place right now. FXR rocks man, rolling stoppies are mean on it. Funny how no one wants to go at the back for some 2 up stuff. We need you here Andrew!

Indiana_Jones
9th April 2004, 22:18
I am at my mate's place right now. FXR rocks man, rolling stoppies are mean on it.

They do rock, they do :bleh:
lol me and my other mate were racing my FXR vs his bicycle :D

And you can do stoppies on an FXR? How? :whistle:

-Indy

Motoracer
9th April 2004, 22:53
Wrap your legs around the fuel tank, go about say 30-40 kmph, lean forward as you progresively brake harder. Don't be too quick with it otherwise the front will slide out from under you (if this begins to happen, let go of the brakes immidiatly!) At first, when the wheel comes up, you'll reckon that its bloody high as even thoe it might be quite low. Keep on practicing and you'll eventually get the hang of it.

If you have never done stoppies, forget about doing rollies for a while. You just learn to do them once you feel confident about trying a stoppie at a higher speed. Minimum for a good rollie is about 60kmph I reckon.

When you are learning, you'll want to try it in a safe empty area that has nice flat surface and is grippy.

Have fun on your beast but I am not taking any responsibility if you bin it. :whistle:

Indiana_Jones
9th April 2004, 23:01
Have fun on your beast but I am not taking any responsibility if you bin it. :whistle:

Would never dream of it, only person to blame is the dumb tit who trys the trick :bleh:

Also, if that's a "rolling stoppie" what is a normal one? just coming to a dead stop with the wheel up where as a rolling one is where u go a distance with the wheel up?

Thanks

-Indy

Motoracer
9th April 2004, 23:03
Also, if that's a "rolling stoppie" what is a normal one? just coming to a dead stop with the wheel up where as a rolling one is where u go a distance with the wheel up?
-Indy

You got it :niceone:

Indiana_Jones
9th April 2004, 23:08
You got it :niceone:

and you have a cool bike
I'll get one one day :soon:

-Indy

Ghost Lemur
10th April 2004, 00:20
Alright so it has to be asked of you wheelie'rs. How many time have you bin'd it? How many times when you were learning, and how many (if ever) since you've known how to do it? Final question, if you have bin'd it what was the resulting damage to your bike?

Two Smoker
10th April 2004, 08:19
Alright so it has to be asked of you wheelie'rs. How many time have you bin'd it? How many times when you were learning, and how many (if ever) since you've known how to do it? Final question, if you have bin'd it what was the resulting damage to your bike?
Ive only binned it once and that wasnt due to doing stoppies or wheelies.... you just have to take it slowly and work your way up to getting the rear wheel 2-3 feet of the ground, or the front wheel at about 10 o'clock.... the most likely thing to happen when binning is to quick into a corner, oh being a dumbarse and following to close to a bike infront:whistle: ........

Motoracer
10th April 2004, 10:04
I am very much a rookie for wheelies. Tried it a few times for fun but haven't managed to do it for a long distance. One of these days, I might practice all day long for a few days and see what I can come up with. So no, I haven't binned while trying to do wheelies.

I feel that the wear and tear through stoppies is very minimal so I don't mind popping one when I feel like it. Have had a few close once when I was in the very early stages, almost having the front slide out from under me. So far I have been very lucky with stoppies as well.

wkid_one
10th April 2004, 18:02
<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=767 border=0 NOF="LY"><TBODY><TR vAlign=top align=left><TD class=TextObject width=144>Wheelies

</TD><TD colSpan=2></TD></TR><TR vAlign=top align=left><TD colSpan=6 height=39></TD></TR><TR vAlign=top align=left><TD></TD><TD class=TextObject width=651 colSpan=5>HOW TO DO WHEELIES


The way I will tell you how to do a wheelie and you being able to just go out and do it, and get it right after a while will all depend on how good you are at knowing and feeling what you can do with your bike.


If you ride an R1 - CBR 900 – 1200 Bandit – etc, These types of bikes are the easiest of all for wheelies because they will wheelie off the throttle in first gear without trying hard at all.


There are different way's of doing them.


1: Riding off clutch all the way out doing around 20 – 30 mph shut the throttle then open it and pull on the bars these people usually don't change gear they rev the nuts of it and don't look in control.


2: Some others pull off usually from a traffic light as above and instead of shutting the throttle they just give it more gas and pull on the bars, This is a better way than above but still not right. You do not need to pull on the bars.


3: Others pull off and then pull the clutch in and out quickly " Slipping the clutch " This is only needed if your bike will not lift just off the throttle. Bikes " some 600s maybe some 750s, I say some because I have ridden the R6 Yamaha and new GSXR 750 and these will lift just from opening it up in first gear and letting the engine do the rest, But it will be harder than on the R1 etc as these have more torque " low down power " than the smaller bikes.

The way I do a wheelie on an R1, CBR900, 1200 Bandit etc is.
First gear, pull away and let the clutch all the way out but try to keep two fingers on the lever, " Some people may feel better with more or less fingers on the lever some may not use the clutch at all. Use what you feel most comfortable with" This is if you want to progress and start changing gear and if you do you will do it all in this little one two step. So you have pulled away clutch out and two fingers on the clutch lever all in one go open the throttle fast enough and wide enough and the bike should pull away really quickly and if you are riding an R1 this should start to wheelie at about 6-7000 RPM and it will literally jump up very fast so be carefull not to let it go too high too quickly, The Bandit will be the same but the Blade may start to come up around 7000 to 8000rpm and will not wheelie as quickly as the other two. Anyway back to the wheelie. When it comes up you need to change to 2nd gear As it comes off the floor. Wait until it is say 2 feet off the ground, do not try and blip the throttle a few times in first gear this is too aggressive the bike will be a lot easier to control in 2nd gear, and you should be able to ride it for a lot further than you could have done if you stuck to first gear. Now you are up in second try to keep the throttle as smooth as possible while you are doing the wheelie try not to keep blipping it, instead try to roll it on and off slowly but to do this the bike will need to be up very high near the balance point where you will only need to give it very small amounts of throttle. You will need a lot of practice before you can wheelie this good but if you try hard enough and think about what you and the bike are doing.. You should get the feel for it soon enough. Remember to try and look where you are going when you are on one wheel, try to look either side of the bike or just make sure you are not going to hit something that you can not see !

When you are getting to the end of second gear instead of letting the bike rev it's nuts off and hitting the limiter then it will hit the floor quite hard and can easily burst fork seals. All you have to do is change gear again into 3rd . Again most people who can already change gear do it by changing as fast as they can and sometimes it will stay up and they will ride it through 3rd as well. To make it that little bit easier just before you change to 3rd give it a little extra blip on the throttle this will help the bike stay up easier because that change from 2nd to 3rd may be fast but the bike will start to come down and you will have to give it more gas and if you have not got the wheelie high enough it will go down. So try to blip it quickly as I said and this will help a lot when you get it right.

600-750cc Bike's

This is nearly the same as with the other bikes exept you will probably need to use the clutch more to get it up. I said earlier on that some 600s will wheelie off the power without slipping the clutch at all, I know the R6 Yamaha will and I believe the new CBR 600 will also. The other new 600s should do the same but I have not ridden these. The new 750s will do the same but older bikes may not.

So here we go again the only diffrence is the use of the clutch and more balance to keep it up for longer as you will not have the torque or power as the R1s e.t.c.

When you pull off you should try and notice when your bike gives the most power but not top end power when it is running out of rev's. Halfway through the rev range you should feel this. Maybe 5 - 7000 rpm when it gets to this you will need to slip the clutch but very lightly. What I mean is do not open the throttle get to 5-6000 revs and pull the clutch all the way to the bars and whack it back out again. That is not what I meant, when it does reach 5-6000 just pull in the clutch lever enough so you hear the engine go to 7-7500 rpm and let it back out quickly but smoothly. The rpm may differ on what bike you are riding but the rest is the same. Some people may like to whack the clutch in and out in 2nd gear to get it up. My way is safer and will not hurt the bike as much. To change from 1st to 2nd this is the same as the bigger bikes but is a little harder with less power.

If you get this far the rest is history you will be able to get 4th 5th and maybe even 6th if your bike has six gears. Always get the bars as straight as possible when it does come down and hold them as tight as you can to avoid a tank slapper.

For people who think this is all too much to remember I will put it as short as I can.


Pull away,clutch all the way out, give it a lot of throttle and it WILL wheelie, When it does change gear, don't try at all to keep it in first for a bit just change gear straight away when it first comes up to 2nd gear then get it higher and keep it up longer with easy smooth throttle actions ride it through 2nd and when you feel it needs another gear give it the little extra blip and go for 3rd as quickly as you can, the same for the rest of the gears.


Enjoy and be safe.



Gary.
http://www.garyrothwell.com/Gary_s_Lessons/wheelies/wheelies.html

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wkid_one
10th April 2004, 18:06
<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=779 border=0 NOF="LY"><TBODY><TR vAlign=top align=left><TD class=TextObject width=144>Stoppies

</TD><TD colSpan=2></TD></TR><TR vAlign=top align=left><TD colSpan=6 height=82></TD></TR><TR vAlign=top align=left><TD></TD><TD class=TextObject width=673 colSpan=5>How to do stoppies.

The way most people would try to do stoppies is usually around ten miles an hour coming up to a traffic light.


The easiest way to try and learn how to do it. You would be much better off attempting this at about 30 mph on a nice road surface. Depending on what motorcycle you ride can make this a lot easier.

A small light motorcycle may be easier to learn on for some people rather than starting off on a big heavy motorcycle, if this is the case it is all in your head. If the bike you are riding is capable of doing a stoppie then it should not be any harder than trying it on a small bike. I think?


The first thing you need to do is be comfortable and relaxed because it doesn't hurt as much when you fall off ? No really , firstly always wear at least a helmet because if you do fall off you will probably land on it or maybe the bike may land on you ? I know it may look good and cool with no protective gear on and maybe your friends may laugh, "they will laugh a lot more if you do fall and get up yourself rather than them supporting your head while they call for an ambulance! Well that's enough of the preaching I think.


So once again depending on the bike you are riding I will compare a few bikes.


Sport bikes 600 cc. Get your bike up to around 30 mph, grip the tank with your knees, this will work better if you are wearing leather pants or a full race suit, because it will grip the tank a lot better than jeans, so now you are doing 30 mph you are squeezing the tank, pull the front brake in quite hard but progressively. You may think the tire will lock up straight away, this may happen if you do it to aggressively this may take a lot of practice to get it right but if it does lock up you better have fast reaction's to release the brake or you will fall very quickly indeed. Be warned ! .


The rear tire will lift off the floor easier if just before you squeeze the brake you quickly bounce slightly on the seat just enough to take the weight off the rear end. If you did it correctly you should have done it easy and to ride along on your front wheel for a while you will need to have very good brake control. If you think about riding up to a stop sign you don't just pull the brakes in and stop right at the sign you are constantly applying and releasing pressure to the brakes . The same applies to riding on your front wheel, when you feel the front wheel biting hard and hopefully the rear wheel lifting off the floor you will be able to control how high the rear wheel goes with brake control. The more you pull your front brake in the higher the rear will go the more you let it out the lower it will go just like coming up to a stop sign just feel what the bike is doing under you and control it yourself you will feel the wheel rise, ideally you want the rear wheel about 2 feet off the floor. Having it only a foot off the floor will mean you are still having to break really hard and you will still stop really quickly, this is not the right way, having it 2 feet off the floor will make it easier for you and you will travel a lot further at this height. If you got it right Congratulations, something else you should know if you are riding along on the front wheel and you feel the back end of the bike starting to go Sideways if you are traveling too fast release your front brake immediately before it gets out of shape otherwise you'll fall off. when you have mastered this and you think you may be ready for the next level all this entails is having the back wheel higher off the floor and riding along faster than before and obviously you will travel a lot further on your front wheel than before, Just before you come to stop you can try turning the handle bars and landing the bike sideways.

Earlier on I said about trying it on different bikes if you're trying this on an R1, fireblade, etc. the same should apply as above, if you are trying it on anything older or heavier you may have to let a bit of pressure out of the front tire and bounce a little harder on the seat just to get the tire to grip because of the extra weight of the bike you are riding.


Some bikes obviously will not do stoppies because of weight, wheelbase, tires, brakes, etc.


Some people obviously read this and go and try time and time again but will never get it right I am sorry but for you people there is no cure. Some have it some don't !!

For the people who do get it right and the people who don't please remember just ride safe and within your limits do not try to go past them because at the end of the day it might not have been worth it.

Take it easy guys and possibly galls

Gary Rothwell


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DEATH_INC.
11th April 2004, 09:10
The only bit to add to this is; DON"T take your feet off the pegs if you think you're gonna go over backwards!!! (unless yer only doing 5kph...)
As soon as you do,you shift your weight rearwards,almost gauranteeing you'll go over.I've hung on to some really hairy one's by just shutting the throttle and hanging in there,never had to use the rear brake either(I've practised it though,it's bloody violent when she comes back down...)but it's an option,and you can't use it if yer feet aren't on the pegs can ya?
Look at all the photo's/vids of guys/gals flipping and you'll see what I mean....

Ryaz
1st July 2005, 13:46
Snapping the throttle on then off, then on quickly again works well on dirt/motoX bikes...KX80's rule!! :-)

Ryaz
1st July 2005, 13:48
Is it possible to flip a KX80?? :S