View Full Version : Kawasaki ZXR250 Help-Needed
Olly
18th March 2006, 16:27
Hey All,
Just got my new bike; loving it (Kawasaki ZXR250)... however I am still lost as to a few things on it. I have been running it on 95/96 (Depending on Petrol Station) and I would like to know if that is the right stuff; also I havent needed to refill the oil yet however would be awesome if someone could inform me what is the right type for it so I know when it comes time. Also I'm sure there a few other handy tips/experiences people can share with me to make it hastle free FUN! :P
Cheers
qldzxr250a
18th March 2006, 17:56
Hi There,
ZXR's are great Bikes. lots of fun to be had. I only run mine on BP ultimate which is 98 because its a jap import. but the best bet is to fill it with 96/98 and get it tuned to that via dyno makes a huge difference. as for oil ive got motul 10w40 i think.
the manual states oil viscosity: SAE10w-40, 10w-50, 20w-40, 20w-50
if you want the full service manual goto http://hosted.filefront.com/qldzxr250a/1471835
keep em' topped with oil but dont let it get to low.
MidnightMike
18th March 2006, 18:01
Bloody nice bike there mate. :ride:
Olly
18th March 2006, 18:23
Thanks Guys; Will Keep you updated how I get on... Where do I find somewhere with a Dyno?
Brett
18th March 2006, 19:26
yeah i try to run mine on 98 only as well. Only main issue i have had is if it sits in traffic and gets really hot and i turn it off and try to restart it, it doesn't start easily. everyone i know with a zxr has the same issue! Otherwise they are an awesome 250!
Olly
18th March 2006, 20:44
:P Funny you mention that; I have the same issue... I find starting it when that happens is as simple as full choke, no gas and loads of starter :P:hitcher:
.produKt
18th March 2006, 21:07
Hey hey :)
Bloody good bike ya bought yourself there mate. mainly because as my first bike, i bought one too :D
Damn it goes hard for 60,000 km's on it :D
I hope this thread gets a bit of attention cuz i need help too..
My Issues are
a: Can't get the fucking thing to start, have to crash start it..
It turns over but doesnt start before exhausting its own battery, Im using the choke on full, half way, 3/4 way & no way. And Holding the clutch in (to reduce rotational work)
b: What voltage is the battery? 6v or 12v?
c: Wheres the best place to get it serviced in chch?
d: Where do you get tyres from here in chch?
e: I'm Running my ZXR on 91 mate, and it runs perfectly.... Fucking fast too, 10,000 rpms and your arms feel like thier gettin pulled out slowly :D
All the best with your wee beauty too :)
metric
18th March 2006, 21:25
yep I agree... love mine too
had it for five months - have had the same starting problem: a new battery sorted it out for me...
gas: I run mine on 91, 96 and 98 (just to see if there is a noticeable difference) but I've heard that higher octane is better for it
voltage: pretty sure it's 12v
tyres/servicing in chch: no idea mate, I live in auckland
tuning: I think that's a great idea to dyno it and get it properly tuned, but tbh I know I'm going to sell this bike in about three months once I've sat my full... so I'm trying to keep my expenditure to a bare minimum (although I guess the arguement goes that if I get it tuned, it will run better and cost me less in gas/servicing etc?)
metric
18th March 2006, 21:28
Hey All,
Just got my new bike; loving it (Kawasaki ZXR250)... however I am still lost as to a few things on it. I have been running it on 95/96 (Depending on Petrol Station) and I would like to know if that is the right stuff; also I havent needed to refill the oil yet however would be awesome if someone could inform me what is the right type for it so I know when it comes time. Also I'm sure there a few other handy tips/experiences people can share with me to make it hastle free FUN! :P
Cheers
oh yeah, if you haven't already got them, get some airhorns fitted... essential I reckon
cheap as chips to buy and you never know, they could save your life
poorbastard
18th March 2006, 21:35
Run mine on 91. Every extra litre of fuel I can get for my money helps my poor pocket.
I didn't notice a shit load off difference running it on other fuels but if it was run and tuned to a specific fuel it may make a difference. Would love to do that but then I wouldn't be buying fuell for a month or so saving up.
Nice choice of bike by the way
N4CR
18th March 2006, 21:48
Run whatever it runs on properly, 91 - if it is too lean it will pop and run like a shitbox when you open it up properly. Mine used to run lean with the old completely open pipe and didn't like 91, ran like it was runnign out of fuel.
Drain oil completely (open top plug and then open bottom sump bolt.. see manual) and change filter at the same time. Do up bolt after it has dripped out for an hour (ps it will pour for first 5 mins so make sure you got a big container). then fill it up, I'm reccomending Motul 5100 15w40 as it has no clutch slip (AT ALL) unlike silkoline and other shit that gets put in it.
Tyres, each model of zxr has different tyre sizes so check for a sticker on the rear wheel hugger with something like 17/110 and 18/140 or something like that (can't remember off the top of my head). Sport demons did not fit onto mine properly without distorting the profiles so I got Dunlop GPR100's for about $340 fitted. They are sports touring tyres and you can peg the bike with ease and no sliding.
If your bike has gone over 20,000km's it might pay to get the valve shims done and they tune carbs at the same time, so get a custom exhaust can before you get this done so it is set up for the future (tuned for exhaust characteristics). Getting valve shims done will pretty much prevent the slight possibility of a valve dropping into your cylinder when you treat it hard. It also gets tuned at teh same time... $400-600 though for mechanics time. BUT WORTH IT!
Have fun.
qldzxr250a
18th March 2006, 22:02
i got a set of GPR70'S and they are the fucking biz man. cant fault them at all more grip then u will ever use super super sticky but noth the greatest tyre life.
i had a set of gpr80's originally and were nothing in comparison. ask anyone who has used 70's and they will swear by them.
p.s i also use 15w40 motul just check my bottle in garage.
N4CR
18th March 2006, 22:33
GPR100's are the new GPR80 model dual compound and all. 100's don't slide really unless you are cranked over being silly buggers. I had the front wash out bad on some bad surfacing today though :|
imdying
18th March 2006, 22:41
Should start first time every time, ex gf had one, never gave any trouble.
.produKt
18th March 2006, 22:52
Hey imdying. You wouldnt happen to be the same 'imdying' from dc++ (ss serv) would you?
Anyway im charging the batter overnight tonight, we'll just see what happens.
Might just have to take it to a mechanic :-( ching....
SuperDave
18th March 2006, 23:11
I think its quite reasonable to expect a 15 year old bike with relatively high KM's to be a bit tempremental when it comes to starting. In saying this the ZXR shouldn't have a problem firing up if you start it correctly the first time - learn the right amount of choke for the bikes temp and situation and you should be able to get it started first time everytime.
Getting the simple cheaper things done can also greatly improve things, stuff like just replacing the oil with a quality oil and replacing all the plugs as well as cleaning out the air filter and flushing out the coolant and replacing with fresh. Batteries arn't expensive so getting a brand new one is a good idea too.
I also had some trouble getting mine started when I first got it - it pretty much needed to be crash started everytime which is a real bitch. I got the basics maintenance done and after that it had no problem starting.
Olly
19th March 2006, 08:59
Awesome; I'll go grab some of that 15/40 oil today... is it bad to mix it with what ever is already in there?
slimyxylofone
19th March 2006, 09:09
Don't mix oils, bad news. Use this as an opportunity to change the oil and filter. From then on you know what oil is in there and how old it is. Change it every 5-6000kms after that.
.produKt
19th March 2006, 12:32
SO about this oil, IOf anyone is in chch would you mind popping me a pm and telling me where i can go to buy parts for my bike?
I have no idea where to find the oil and brake pads etc :(
Olly
19th March 2006, 16:19
Hi Again Guys; Very sad now... I decided to go for a fun long ride today and all was well (So Much Fun). I returned home to grab somethings before going out again and somehow the rpm meter thing now multiplys everything by like 4 so instead of it saying it is idleing at like 2,000 as it does it now says it idles at 8,000... There is no way it is going that hard. Can anyone tell me some possible causes for this false reading. :crybaby:... Guess I will have to take it back into the bike shop tomorrow to get them to sort it out.
imdying
20th March 2006, 09:04
I work with a guy who likes old Hondas, things like 50 years old Dreams. They start with a single push of the starter every time, no good reason why a 15 yo ZXR250 won't.
I can help you with your bike if you get stuck, just pm me. I think there's only one of me...
.produKt
20th March 2006, 14:48
Well an update on that actually =)
I trickle charged the battery overnight, and it started first pop in da mornin.
Which made me a very happy man! as i were a bit downhearted thinking of the bills i'd have to pay to get it runnin :(
g34l
23rd March 2006, 11:51
i had a 16 yo zxr205 too, and running it everyday. it runs quite all right with 91 for me. however, i did find it strees when the petrol tank went down to about 1/3. i did even had it lost power and the engine started to struggle on the motorway, so i had to pull it off and gave it a rest. now i try to keep the tank reasonabl.
i actually sent it out for servising and tunning. it is quite costly, i had it for nearly two years now, and out for four times, and not a single time was less then 500. worse of all, next time in, i think the clutch and rear tyre are going to be replaced. anyway, for safety and efficient sake, it worths it.
the battery imporved the starting issue a little bit, but i did not think that is an electrical problem. i did not use the original battery, but replace with another replacement, slightly bigger capacity, but with the terminal round the wrong way so i had to modify it.
these days, i got to take of the 7 oclock traffic in auckland. i think something i found was, try not to have the bike stationary. even 20k on 2nd gear will be good as goal, at least the fan did not have to come on.
besides the down sides, which are not too major, zxr is good!!
cheers, mate!
John
23rd March 2006, 11:56
Olly if you need help, antallica knows where I leave get my number off him - I can sort any problem out for ya give ya some tips and such.
Sniper
23rd March 2006, 12:32
Olly if you need help, antallica knows where I leave get my number off him - I can sort any problem out for ya give ya some tips and such.
Just don't bend over in front of John:Pokey: (pt)
Delta-9
23rd March 2006, 12:44
Hey can anyone tell me how much oil to put in my '89 ZXR250? Normally bikes have it printed on the engine but I can't find it anywhere.
And can anyone tell me why my bike revs out at 16k? I've changed the spark plugs (to Split Fire performance plugs), I've cleanded the air filter and I've checked the fuel lines. There are things I haven't tried yet and I don't want to unless I have have to, like cleaning and sychronising the carbs - removing carbs is not a fun job on a sports bike I can tell you, especially a 4 cylinder!
Is there anything I haven't thought of yet?
And one dumb question - How do I change the "L-Plate Rider" thing? cause I'm not.
N4CR
23rd March 2006, 15:29
Hey mate, when it revs out to 16k that is an electrics problem .. sounds like it is strangling itself to death eh? I had it once going up to whangarei in the rain for 4 hours, dried it out overnight and it worked fine the next day. Might need to strip the bike and check all electrical connections.
Mine's being a bitch starting with an aux fuel tank at the moment, might need to figure out how to hook up the carb primer line, I tipped some fuel in before but didn't help it to start. Battery was flat before but have a new one.. it turns over and ignites every now and then but only a single pop or so. Crash starting it sorta makes it shudder and it sounds like it has not enough fuel or something, runs for about 3 seconds before stalling.
Fugdarnit!
imdying
23rd March 2006, 15:34
Sounds like the battery is so buggered that all the current it can deliver is going straight to the starter motor, and thus none is left to make spark with :( Charge it up good before you try again.
justsomeguy
23rd March 2006, 15:42
Hi Olly
NOOOOOO!!!!!!!
DON'T RUN IT ON 96 - DRAIN THE TANK IMMEDIATELY. OR YOU WILL FOUL THE PLUGS.
John - the head mechanic at Botany Honda - the guy who did all the servicing on it - actually made me throw out about 5 litres of 96. Those plugs are brand new mate you don't want to fork out another $80 plus labour to get another set.
Is it still showing the wrong revs?? That is terrible. There is a thread here where I asked about it. You still have all the reciepts I gave you?? Ring those people and tell them what all is happening.
Every aspect of that bike was given a thorough going over by Botany Honda, Davey's Motorcycle Wreckers, Red Baron Motorcycles, Corsa Motorcycle Wreckers and BLACKYOSHI, Juzzer and I.......
So it should be the sweet.
The oil in it is Elf Moto4 HpEco Semi Synthetic 10 by 40W. It was changed less than 500ks before you got the bike so should be ok for a fair bit of riding. The filters new too.
Sniper
23rd March 2006, 15:42
And one dumb question - How do I change the "L-Plate Rider" thing? cause I'm not.
You need to post more for it to dissapear. Welcome
N4CR
23rd March 2006, 15:52
JSgz... running 96/91 depends on what the bike runs best on. I also heard the fouling plugs myth. My bike (used to be) tuned slightly lean and for max power/top end so it started like a bitch. 91 would make it overheat and pre-ignite. Fuel usage in these things should be done on a case by case basis.
Mine needs a tune (aka it's rich) so can run 91 no problems, gets better mileage on 96 though so more cost effective.
justsomeguy
23rd March 2006, 16:01
JSgz... running 96/91 depends on what the bike runs best on. I also heard the fouling plugs myth. My bike (used to be) tuned slightly lean and for max power/top end so it started like a bitch. 91 would make it overheat and pre-ignite. Fuel usage in these things should be done on a case by case basis.
Mine needs a tune (aka it's rich) so can run 91 no problems, gets better mileage on 96 though so more cost effective.
Well I heard it - was told to me by John from Botany Honda who runs the workshop there. I'll phone Richard from Corsa and ask him what he thinks.
imdying
23rd March 2006, 16:38
Funny things carbs, but they can definitely be tuned properly by people who know what they're about. Fouling plugs on 96 is a myth indeed, and they can be tuned to correctly meter fuel over the entire rev range. Definitely shouldn't so lean anywhere in the fuel curve that it runs funny. If it was hard to start because it was lean, it either wasn't tuned correctly, or the choke was faulty.
N4CR
23rd March 2006, 18:37
If it was hard to start because it was lean, it either wasn't tuned correctly, or the choke was faulty.
Bit of both... ;) It's just tuned too much for top end and has almost no backpressure (old exhaust). New one has a little bit but it's still a bastard sometimes when very cold.
One day my choke lever reversed itself. What the fuck....
edit: the problem with 91 is that as it is a lower octane it is easier to burn and burns more completely (hence plug fouling myth coming into play with 96)... and burns hotter. 96 is harder to detonate/ignite and burns a little slower. 91 was getting the bike too hot (jumps up a notch on the temp meter) and running bad. Ain't a problem now as it has got too rich and a bit slower.
.produKt
3rd April 2006, 08:39
Just thought id breathe life back into this thread.
My fuckin radiator fan aint workin on my zxr250's crappy single core radiator.
So riding towards belfast yesterday with frequent stop starts the temp was up at about 2 mm off hot :(
Is there an easy solution? apart from wiring up the fan to run off the same circuit as the headlight (which is always on)
Westy
4th April 2006, 18:01
Hi dudes
I had the starting prob on one of these bikes too. Was the battery voltage too low. The battery was too sick to fire the ignition aswell as the starter so the starter sucked away all the juice. Battery seemed fine but when a new one went in it started first compression. I also had the problem of not starting when hot. Replace the cam chain and it also started every time. I balanced my carbs and set the mixtures and now it starts without any choke and runs sweet. Great bikes. Mines for sale if anyone wants one. See online trading or trade me ZXR250a in nelson. Later
Westy
4th April 2006, 18:03
Why isnt the fan working? Is it the switch in the radiator?
justsomeguy
4th April 2006, 18:11
Hi dudes
I had the starting prob on one of these bikes too. Was the battery voltage too low. The battery was too sick to fire the ignition aswell as the starter so the starter sucked away all the juice. Battery seemed fine but when a new one went in it started first compression. I also had the problem of not starting when hot. Replace the cam chain and it also started every time. I balanced my carbs and set the mixtures and now it starts without any choke and runs sweet. Great bikes. Mines for sale if anyone wants one. See online trading or trade me ZXR250a in nelson. Later
Ollie's bike has a new battery, new camchain, new plugs and I think a new fuel filter too.
Olly
7th April 2006, 18:52
Bike is working sweet now... must just have needed some good old fashion riding to get it working as it should.
SuperDave
8th April 2006, 16:43
My fuckin radiator fan aint workin on my zxr250's crappy single core radiator.
Had the same thing on mine and solved in without trouble. The fan is connected to a main wiring loom through a plug. I just took apart the plug and ran wires from the fan straight to the battery through a switch. This is much better because it means I can leave the fan running whilst the bike is off if need be.
zeRax
8th April 2006, 21:19
what the duece superdave?
what good will that be?
mynameis
10th April 2006, 23:08
First of all good buy the bike looks pretty awesome nice colour. Well there were a few good points highlighted by a few peeps on here so no need to cover that.
Check on "N4CR" postings he seems to know that he's talking about. I have a ZXR250 95 C Model 24000k's runs pretty good. About oil check the manual most ZXR250 should run on 10w40 and use fully synthetic although it might be twice the price it's definitely worth it. Would be good to download the service manual and keep it. Comes in handy once in a while.
If you are changing tyres use same type eg.crosspliers both front and back or radial dont MIX THEM ! Get right profile too. My ZXR250 95 c model is 110/70-17 and 140/60-18 make sure you get the right profile tyres.
Soft compund sticky tyres like Dunlop Or Perili are good. Check the chain and the links plus saftey clip on the chain. Make sure it's not loose or old and worn out. Lube the chain after riding in rain. Check tyre pressure. Brake pads too.
Dont mix oil drain it out completely and change oil filter as well when you're doing it. DOT 4 clutch fluid would be good. Check fork seals. And run on petrol that is best. I only use 91 for mine. Bikes have carbs and thats the best fuel for it. EFI - Cars then 95 96 or 98 in my opinion.
Major work like valve clearence carbs cleaning and balancing will make the run like a completely new bike. I've had it done on my one runs like a dream machine. Mmmm :) Other than that basic maintance aye fella and you should be fine. Feel free to OM if there's anything.
Alvin ;)
.produKt
11th April 2006, 07:45
Cheers for all that alvin :). Have made a 'before weekend blat' checklist now :).
Also my zxr has 68,000 km's on it, about to run over to 70,000 and on wednesday its getting its camchain replaced (real noisey on idle) and valve shimmy thingys checked too =) yay! there goes a significant wad of cash =\
metric
11th April 2006, 08:06
Cheers for all that alvin :). Have made a 'before weekend blat' checklist now :).
Also my zxr has 68,000 km's on it, about to run over to 70,000 and on wednesday its getting its camchain replaced (real noisey on idle) and valve shimmy thingys checked too =) yay! there goes a significant wad of cash =\
how much to replace cam chain / shims etc? mine's just clocked 50,000 so I don't know if its been done before...
N4CR
11th April 2006, 09:50
My shims cost $600 w/ carb tune/plugs/fluids/Suspension etc from Mt Eden motorcycles. If you truely care about your bike get it done when it hits 20k as per the manual...most people never do it. I'd rather do that (and not get a valve dropping into the cylinder) and get a tune at the same time as well as an inspection of the top end to make sure things are all dandy.
I got my camchain done at 40k as it was getting pretty loose and slightly eating rocker covers :mellow: - so might as well get it done in the same job. I think chains are $80 or $150 (either one can't remember now).
Save your pennies and get that stuff all done at the same time, gets rid of noise and the possibility of having to buy and fit a new engine if something stuffs up. Makes it a new bike too. The best thing about getting it all done early and at the same time is piece of mind, the fact that you are not paying 3x for the mechs to do the same thing (pulling it to bits for work on similar areas of the bike blah blah).
Enjoy your elite zx2rs! :headbang: :mega:
edit: gareth_d and superdave both have pulled these things to bits, I havn't done aaas much so more technical questions should get directed at them.
R6_kid
11th April 2006, 10:16
im good for taking the bike to parts and putting it back together, not so for the engine... just so ya dont send me PM that i cant help you with. Basically i can help with minor engine problems/bad noises and give you a fairly good idea of what is going on and what to tell the mechanic so you dont get shafted.
But if you take something off and cant remember where it goes then i spose i'd be the man you need to talk to.
.produKt
11th April 2006, 16:01
how much to replace cam chain / shims etc? mine's just clocked 50,000 so I don't know if its been done before...
I were given a rough estimate of 350 - 400 to inspect the valve shims (which they think have been done before) and to replace the cam chain and idle tensioners. Ther're also doing an oil changefilter and sparkplug clean and check.
Not a bad price i spose. and this is Street 'n Sport motorcycles in chch :)
imdying
11th April 2006, 16:18
Good luck with them working on it :)
.produKt
11th April 2006, 17:52
Yeh, well garth is gonna be working on it, and sooo many ppl have told me that he's the best when it comes to teh Kawasaki's...
I just cant wait to hear what it sounds like without that camchain rattle :)
crash harry
11th April 2006, 18:46
Yeh, well garth is gonna be working on it, and sooo many ppl have told me that he's the best when it comes to teh Kawasaki's...
I just cant wait to hear what it sounds like without that camchain rattle :)
It's a kawasaki. That's not a rattle, that's the sound of it crunching on the bones of lesser bikes...
John
11th April 2006, 19:03
It's a kawasaki. That's not a rattle, that's the sound of it crunching on the bones of lesser bikes...
now here is a real man.
.produKt
11th April 2006, 19:08
Heh, well it is ACTUALLY a rattle. I had it checked out before i booked it in to be replaced...
i wonder how an engine runs on bones tho? :D
imdying
11th April 2006, 19:32
Yeh, well garth is gonna be working on it, and sooo many ppl have told me that he's the best when it comes to teh Kawasaki's...Cool, good luck :niceone:
.produKt
11th April 2006, 20:03
Just recorded a wee sample on my cheap-o mp3 player of the rattle :)
http://www.phattpad.orcon.net.nz/V001.WAV cant wait to hear how it sounds without the rattle :)
imdying
11th April 2006, 20:37
Yikes! Sounds like it's chewing itself to bits!!! Don't spend millions getting it fixed though, you'll be moving on soon enough :)
.produKt
11th April 2006, 20:39
Shit does it?
Well anyway i assure you, it isnt.
I asked the mechanic after he looked at it, if i should be riding it or not, and he said "yea, no worries. no need to nana it just yet". Which made me happy..
It may sound like its eating itself but it still sounds good :)
John
11th April 2006, 20:47
it may just be your mic distorting on the low frequency idle - but I must say that ISNT good.
Sounds like your clearances are out and your camchain is absolutely rooted.
imdying
11th April 2006, 21:24
Yeah I'd still ride it... you can only worry so much after all :)
N4CR
11th April 2006, 23:31
Classic case of 'HUNGRY CAMCHAIN EATS ROCKER COVERS WHILE MAKING MINCE OUT OF HONDAS'. Get it sorted quickish mate. You can go at least another 5000+ k's like I did (shuuush) but is it worth getting a new engine should it fail?
metric
14th April 2006, 20:52
My shims cost $600 w/ carb tune/plugs/fluids/Suspension etc from Mt Eden motorcycles. If you truely care about your bike get it done when it hits 20k as per the manual...most people never do it. I'd rather do that (and not get a valve dropping into the cylinder) and get a tune at the same time as well as an inspection of the top end to make sure things are all dandy.
I got my camchain done at 40k as it was getting pretty loose and slightly eating rocker covers :mellow: - so might as well get it done in the same job. I think chains are $80 or $150 (either one can't remember now).
Save your pennies and get that stuff all done at the same time, gets rid of noise and the possibility of having to buy and fit a new engine if something stuffs up. Makes it a new bike too. The best thing about getting it all done early and at the same time is piece of mind, the fact that you are not paying 3x for the mechs to do the same thing (pulling it to bits for work on similar areas of the bike blah blah).
Hmmm.... this is my dilemma.
I am approx two months from selling & upgrading assuming I get my full licence.
The bike is running perfectly fine at present. I do need a warrant shortly...
Should I spend the approx $6-700 to get the above done or wait for a couple of months & sell the bike & upgrade - after all, that money could be going towards getting a 600...?
.produKt
14th April 2006, 21:42
Nah... You should keep a hold of all the money you can towards your new bike :)
Sell it and just advise the new owner that it needs doing in about 3000 km's or something :)
SuperDave
15th April 2006, 10:24
Yeah one needs to find the balance between spending enough on your 250 to keep it up to scratch without over capitlising in it. I painted my zxr recently and it worked out $350 more than what I thought it would cost. The auction is running at the moment and as it stands now its $400 short of what I paid for it.
I've also spent over $900 on it for chain, sprockets, cam chain, plugs, pads, filters etc etc. But this sort of stuff really does need to be done and a lot of it you can do yourself with a bit of time and the manual. There really is no need to pay a mechanic extra to do the plugs whilst he is doing say the cam chain, this just increases the labour charge.
metric
15th April 2006, 10:57
yeah good call... will probably wait it out... discussed it with my girlfriend's dad who has been riding bikes for years, he agrees - the bike's in great condition, wait for the full... & upgrade
.produKt
15th April 2006, 11:31
Hmm that does seem the best option :cool:
Um by the way SuperDave... Are sparkplugs on a ZXR something that you cant do yourself?!?
N4CR
15th April 2006, 20:27
Just sell it man, UNLESS you have a bad looking bike, if it does look bad (scuffed/shitty/dropped etc) it pays to get stuff like that done - people pay more for a well looked after bike if it ain't so shit hot looking, provide receipts etc too.
sparkplugs can be done yourself but from memory it's alot of pulling shit off to get to them! Just unbolt them it's simple.
SuperDave
15th April 2006, 20:35
Hmm that does seem the best option :cool:
Um by the way SuperDave... Are sparkplugs on a ZXR something that you cant do yourself?!?
Not at all, but it can take a while. You have to loosen the four bolts that hold the radiator and then shift it forward a bit, just so that you have enough space to get your damn hand in there. Nothing hard or complicated but the bolts can be a bit of a bitch to get out which just takes time.
No need to pay a mechanic to do this as its just gonna cost you his time. Same goes for other basic stuff like air filter, coolant flushing, bleeding brakes, new brake pads and changing oil.
metric
17th April 2006, 20:08
Just sell it man, UNLESS you have a bad looking bike, if it does look bad (scuffed/shitty/dropped etc) it pays to get stuff like that done - people pay more for a well looked after bike if it ain't so shit hot looking, provide receipts etc too.
It has been dropped (before I bought it) so it ain't crash hot in the looks department... scuffed down the right side
Not at all, but it can take a while. You have to loosen the four bolts that hold the radiator and then shift it forward a bit, just so that you have enough space to get your damn hand in there. Nothing hard or complicated but the bolts can be a bit of a bitch to get out which just takes time.
No need to pay a mechanic to do this as its just gonna cost you his time. Same goes for other basic stuff like air filter, coolant flushing, bleeding brakes, new brake pads and changing oil.
cool.. that's something I can & will do...
.produKt
20th April 2006, 07:57
Hey, if theres anyone still looking at this thread or subscribed to it i have anuther q ... :)
Ive found the round glass hole for what i think is for checking your oil, but how far up the glass should it be? and do i have to have the bike upright to get the most accurate reading?
cheers
Whynot
20th April 2006, 08:47
Hey, if theres anyone still looking at this thread or subscribed to it i have anuther q ... :)
Ive found the round glass hole for what i think is for checking your oil, but how far up the glass should it be? and do i have to have the bike upright to get the most accurate reading?
cheers
yes the bike has to be upright ... and i think it should be around half way up the glass.
.produKt
20th April 2006, 17:48
How the feck am i to stand my 170kg pride n joy upright :sweatdrop :scratch:
SuperDave
20th April 2006, 18:08
How the feck am i to stand my 170kg pride n joy upright :sweatdrop :scratch:
Get someone to hold it get or get a paddock stand. You can also do a makeshift job by putting a block of wood under the sidestand to level the bike and then support it yourself while checking the oil level.
Also it's a good idea to let the engine warm up a bit before checking the oil level. Cut the engine before you check though.
.produKt
20th April 2006, 18:28
Tell ya what.... I'd just love to have a dipstick instead :yes:
zeRax
21st April 2006, 00:26
or you could hold it with one of ur hands
and bend down and look :O?
.produKt
21st April 2006, 07:41
Well that would just be logical. And no fun :P
Seriously tho, im just not keen on getting down that low and stretching my arm up that high to hold the bike up. It just doesnt seem to be the most surefire way of not having my bike fall on top of me
zeRax
21st April 2006, 17:11
get a pit stand :>
qldzxr250a
21st April 2006, 17:35
yer sure feels dodgy when u do it.
p.s good luck looking in the hole....i usually take the fairing blade off to make it easier.
hole is a bastard to see into without a torch.
metric
21st April 2006, 20:11
yer sure feels dodgy when u do it.
p.s good luck looking in the hole....i usually take the fairing blade off to make it easier.
hole is a bastard to see into without a torch.
haha
yeah mate
agreed
.produKt
24th April 2006, 13:07
Well i found out that when the mech's were lookin at me camchain (an d how fucked it is) they didnt top up the oil :O....*shock* -_-
Needed near on 800 mls of oil, its prob using a bit, its got rather high km's :(
Btw, does the oil in the engine crankcase get circulated around the gearbox too ?
If so, then if you should fuckup a gear change and grind some teef just briefly, should you change the oil and flush it?
i heard a wicked horror story or someone losing thier whole bottom end due to gearbox shavings... (it happens occasionally)
N4CR
24th April 2006, 21:01
Gears ain't made of cheese man, mabey If you managed to grind a few mm off it rolling down a hill bouncing in between gears for a few minutes then you might take a bit off, but for now don't worry. Filters generally catch crap like that. And yes that same oil goes everywhere.
boom
20th August 2006, 15:28
i need to purchase a new battery myself. where is the best place to shop for one? are there any online stores or is it best to just go to one of the local bike shops (lower hutt, wellington)? thanks.
skidMark
20th August 2006, 16:09
any bike shop can get it in for you from one of thier wholesalers
just go see them and get them to find out what it is ( it may just be in a book they have) or they can just pop the rider seat and taadaa...
should be about 40 bucks for a cheapy or 80 or so for a decent battery
the dynavolt i think they are called is alright and for a mere 40 -50 bucks...
oh and make sure they leave it to sit for at least an hour after filling it prior to charging.... then get them to trickle charge it over night (slow charge not quick charge) before you get it....then it should last a long time
imdying
20th August 2006, 20:37
Don't get a shitty one, get a Yuasa. ZXR250s can be hard on batteries if they're not in good nick (either the battery or the ZXR :D)
metric
25th August 2006, 18:22
stoked... big ups to Ricky at CMS
got a 2nd hand disc for my front brakes, brakes serviced and a cam tensioner kit fitted
bike is now runnning like a dream
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