Buying a used motorcycle?

[SARGE]

this is a scary process..i sat down the other night and typed up a rough guide to help you all...

( see also on WikiHow - http://www.wikihow.com/Buy-a-Used-Motorcycle)








1) Decide what type of riding you will be doing most of. Commuting, sports, touring, or a combination of all. This is the most important criteria you will need to look at. Be honest with yourself on this one.. Testosterone will have a major influence on what you buy. A 1000 cc superbike might make your heart skip a beat, but there is a very good chance that you will hate it on the commute, and that your pillion will be uncomfortable on it. Track-days on a cruiser may also be disappointing.

2) When you can, buy from a reputable dealership. Private sales may be lower priced, but you will not have any comeback if the bike breaks down or blows up. Most dealerships offer some type of warranty, or at the very least, will work with you should anything go wrong in the first few months of buying. If you must buy from a private party, insist that you be able to take the bike to a reputable dealership to be assessed and inspected. A few dollars spent now could save you heaps of money and trouble in the future. In addition, dealerships can do an ownership history search for you to make sure the bike in question isn’t stolen or been listed as “written off” by an insurance company.

3) If for some reason, you cannot get the bike to a dealership for an appraisal, there are ways you can check it out for yourself. Take some simple hand tools with you, including a flashlight and if you can, a multimeter

a) Check the condition of the drive chain and sprocket. The chain should have around ¾” of play and the teeth of the sprocket should not show obvious damage or wear. Try to wiggle the chain side to side on the sprocket. There shouldn’t be much movement on a good set.

b) The tires should have good tread all the way across the surface with no signs of uneven wear or damage.


c) Sit on the bike. Look at the condition of the brake and clutch levers, bar-end weights, straightness of the bars and instrument cluster. These could be signs of an accident or drop. Others could be scratched engine cases, foot pegs or exhaust pipes. Hold the handbrake and bounce the front suspension. It should feel even and firm. Get off the bike and check the fork tubes for signs of rust, pitting and oil. These are signs of worn fork seals, or possible future expensive problems.

d) While checking the forks, run a fingernail across the brake rotors, feeling for uneven wear or grooving. Look into the brake caliper to see how much of the pads are left. If the bike has spokes, check the overall condition of the individual spokes. For all types, look for dents or damage to the rim
e) Put the bike n its center stand if so equipped; turn the bars side to side. Feel for any ‘notchy-ness’ or roughness in the steering head.

f) If possible, check the visible frame; remove the seat to see underneath it also. There should be no dents, kinks or visible damage to the frame. If there is, walk away.

g) While the seat is off and you can access the battery, clip the multi-meter across the battery terminals and check the voltage. It should read no less than 12 volts. Start the engine. The meter should read no more than 14 volts or so while running. If it does, that may be a sign of a dodgy voltage regulator and it may overcharge a battery and cause it to fail. Check the lights and indicators at this stage also. Pull a fuse or two out and check for corrosion. Do this with the engine off of course. (Also, check the battery terminals and overall appearance of the battery.) Replace the seat.

h) Open the fuel tank and check for obvious signs of rust or corrosion using your flashlight (not a match or lighter…..)









THE TEST RIDE


1. Pick a nice day with dry roads and good visibility if possible. Bring your bike license and proper gear if you have it. Most dealers will have loaner gear available for you to use. If at a dealer, be prepared to sign an insurance waiver; if privately, be ready to leave your license with the seller as security.

2. Pick a route that you are familiar with that has light traffic and good road conditions if possible. Start slowly and get used to the way the bike feels and responds.

3. Test the brakes. They should not ‘pulse’. That is a sign of warped disks. They should engage smoothly and evenly and not grab violently or feel spongy.

4. Accelerate through the gears. The transmission should feel firm and not slip out of gear under acceleration or feel ‘ clunky’

5. While on a straight, clean patch of road, weave left and right slightly to see how the bike responds. It should feel stable and easy to correct.

6. Listen for any unusual engine noises, suspension creaking or rattling and any undue vibrations. Ask questions about anything you have doubts about.

7. When the ride is finished, inspect the bike again, looking for any leaks or drips. Check the oil, through either the sight glass or; when the engine cools, the dipstick if so equipped. Most semi or full synthetic oils will darken after only a few miles. That is completely normal.

8. Request a service history. It is always a good thing to have, but for several reasons, they may not be available. Ask for an owner’s manual and factory toolkit if available.

9. Insurance is never optional. You will come off eventually.




When negotiating on the final price of the bike, be realistic. For a private seller, this may be his baby and insulting him now will ensure that you will not get a fair price. If at a dealership, realize that the salesperson may have targets to meet and a boss looking over his shoulder. Do some research online, used the retail pricing guides if available or read the bike classifieds to get a fair market value of the bike.. then set your buy price accordingly.

Ride Safe;

Sarge

[Colapop]

Thanks for that Sarge - there's a couple of things in there that I hadn't considered.

[SARGE]

Thanks for that Sarge - there's a couple of things in there that I hadn't considered.


im a trained professional... dont try this at home...

[Phurrball]

Cheers Sarge - sage advice that should avoid a few problems.

One point - you can't leave your licence with a seller, as you're supposed to have it on your person at all times when piloting your vehicle of choice...and it would be that one time, wouldn't it...:wacko:

I'm sure you could negotiate other forms of security - car keys, spare kidney etc...

[The Stranger]

Good advice Sarge but a couple of comments.

How do you discern a reputable dealer from a disreputable dealer?

You mention brake rotors, however I think more emphasis should be placed on these, because if worn they are usually VERY expensive to replace.

[SARGE]

Good advice Sarge but a couple of comments.

How do you discern a reputable dealer from a disreputable dealer?

You mention brake rotors, however I think more emphasis should be placed on these, because if worn they are usually VERY expensive to replace.


just ask around .. bad service travels faster than the speed of light.


you can usually tell shagged rotors with a fingernail and test ride..

[Patrick]

h) Open the fuel tank and check for obvious signs of rust or corrosion using your flashlight (not a match or lighter…..)



Spoilsport... nothing funnier than watching a dumbarse syphoning stolen petrol and using a match to see what he is doing....the look on his face when everything lights up... priceless!!!:doh:

[Paul in NZ]

Oh man... Wish I'd read that before I bought my Moto Guzzi..

It has a clunk in the transmission and the engine has been making strange noises since day one... And the vibrating, odd suspension (paleolithic) and leaking.. aargh!

But then... They all do that sir! ;-) It's called charcter (ah hem)

ps - good effort Sarge!

pps - one other thing I'd recommend, do a quick internet search and research the bike. There will be a users forum out there and any common faults will surface quickly so you can factor them in.

pps - buying projects? Hah! The owner always values them highly 'cos they can see the finished product but it will cost you twice what the bike is worth to get it there. Only buy if it is a labour of love!

[SARGE]

Oh man... Wish I'd read that before I bought my Moto Guzzi..

It has a clunk in the transmission and the engine has been making strange noises since day one... And the vibrating, odd suspension (paleolithic) and leaking.. aargh!

But then... They all do that sir! ;-) It's called charcter (ah hem)
!
one bike's 'Character' is another bike's severe mechanical problem......



pps - one other thing I'd recommend, do a quick internet search and research the bike. There will be a users forum out there and any common faults will surface quickly so you can factor them in.



yup..agree totally Paul.. the internet is useful for something besides porn.. true story...

[WRT]

Good on ya Sarge, some good pointers in there for those out looking. That "Reputable" bit is the key word in your blurb about dealers - definately ask around before hand, and make sure that the bike is completely up to scratch before you hand over your dosh (applies for dealers and private sales).

When buying privately, make sure that you get a VIR report on it, this will tell you A LOT about the history of the vehicle, including if it was stolen, has money owing, or was brought into the country with water damage. Check it out here (http://www.motorweb.co.nz/public/).

Also, check front and rear wheels for freeplay, check all pegs, levers, and switches for signs of wear and tear (including things like kickstarts, pillion grab rails, even the seats etc.). If looking for signs of crash damage, check things like the bar ends, the foot pegs, gear and brake levers, and the underside of the exhaust and can. These will get damaged in a crash but not necessarily replaced.

You can get a fair idea of how well the bike has been looked after by the fluid levels (oil, water, brake fluid, etc) and condition, tyre pressures, also looking at the chain for tension and lubricant. If these basic maintenance points have been overlooked, then there is a good chance that the rest of the bike hasnt been well looked after either.

If at all possible, get someone to go with you when looking at a bike (or any vehicle for that matter). Even if they arent a mechanic, they may still pick up on things that you miss. And what ever you do, dont be afraid to ask questions!

[Paul in NZ]

one bike's 'Character' is another bike's severe mechanical problem.........

True. But not all bikes conform to identical layouts and an inline motor running an engine speed clutch will feel totally differently to a UJM. One mans fault is another mans feature (good lord i sound like a software engineer) but it is important to have a realistic expectation before riding.


yup..agree totally Paul.. the internet is useful for something besides porn.. true story...

Hey cut that out! If it wasn't for porn I couldn't justify my PC at home (oops)

No seriously, I doubt we would have an internet without it. I see vodafone is allowing porn downloads to their handsets. Clever lads! (my god, we are not really very civilised are we)

[SARGE]

Cheers you old bugger.


old??????????

[Sniper]

old??????????

I mean young at heart with the body of an action man (Aged a few years) :bleh:

[SARGE]

uying a used bike

Buying a used bike is an exercise of wits, faith, hope, charity and rat cunning. And the only thing you're risking is the entire contents of your wallet! Here are 20 top buying tips from the pages of Australian Motorcycle Trader.

1. Appearance:
Original paint, stickers, mufflers. Do you know what an original should look like? Custom everything is nice but not worth a pinch of the proverbial in the used market.

Bikes that are red or black will resell easily. If it has aftermarket mufflers and the like, ask if the original bits come with the bike. An original bike is always worth more when you go to sell it.

Look for cancer: rust on the frame, corroded alloy bits, faded grey switchgear, yellowed screen, cracked and dull paint. Stand at the back of the bike and sight along the centre - does the fairing line up with the steering head? If not, it's had a big shunt and hasn't been fixed properly. Do the colours along the bodywork match?

2. Fit:
This is a good time to take a breather and sit quietly on the bike. Does it fit? Can you reach the ground easily? Is your pillion happy on the back seat? Can you get it on and off the stands? Can the levers or even seat height be adjusted to fit you better?

3. Rego:
How much is left? In some cases this could be a $600 observation.

4. Provenance:
Do the engine and frame match each other? This is an issue with classic Brit bikes where the frame and engine numbers should often match. And with some Japanese classics - does that CB1100R have the real powerplant in the frame or the easily-swapped CB900 engine which looks much the same? With the former it is a desirable motorcycle; with the latter it's next to worthless.

Check the engine/chassis/rego numbers with your local registration authority before handing over the cheque - it could be stolen.

5. Service history:
If it has one, it's worth money in the bank. Look for dealer stamps, or the next-best which is a history recorded by the owner.

6. Still under warranty:
Warranties do transfer to the new owner but are of doubtful worth unless the bike has been dealer-serviced (by a pukka franchise) according to the manufacturer schedule (ask to see the records).

7. Starting cold:
Put your hand beside the engine/fairing. It should be cold. Ask the owner to start it - deduct points for use of jumper leads off the car battery and special techniques involving liberal use of a kickstart and the F-word. If it's pre-warmed when you turn up, treat it with suspicion. A bit of smoke at this stage is acceptable - it could be unburned fuel or even a bit of oil.

8. Running:
It should run smoothly through warm-up, while the choke/fast idle is backed off. Give it five minutes and switch it off.

9. Warm start:
Start it again - it should start first time, no excuses.

10. Warm running:
It should respond instantly to the throttle - try a gentle rev and then a hard rev to about 60 percent of redline. It should settle immediately back to idle speed (usually around 1000-1200rpm). If it settles to a fast idle, then slows to a normal idle after a few seconds, the carburetion is suspect. Was that a puff of smoke? Why? Is there an unusual rattle or bang? Have you heard the same powerplant in another bike? Does it change when you pull the clutch lever? Is that normal for this bike? Click it into gear and do a walking-pace take-off. Was the clutch action smooth? Did it drop into gear without hesitation?

11. Tyres:
Look for cracks (old rubber), depth of tread, and severe cuts or bits of metal in the tread. Check the entire circumference of each tyre.

12. Chain/sprockets:
Look at a rear sprocket on a new bike and see if your used item looks the same shape. Fat rounded teeth are what you're looking for. Anything that looks like shark teeth, with broken or chipped tops, is stuffed. The chain should have no more than a few centimetres slack on the lower run, midway between the engine and rear wheel.

13. Steering:
If it has a centrestand, use it, and take the weight off the front end (pushing down, or sitting someone, on the pillion seat will do this). Swing the handlebars from side-to-side looking for smooth transition (ignoring a cable that might snag). If it feels tight on the outer reaches while loose and notchy in the centre, add $200 to the cost for steering head bearings. Without a centrestand, roll the bike forward and do the same thing.

14. Brake pads:
Easy with disc brakes - look along the disc and see if there is at least 2mm of brake material left before the backing plate hits the disc. Deep gouges in the discs are a bad sign. Drum brakes are harder to judge, though some models will have pad wear indicators on them.

15. Electrics working:
Check all the basics. Headlight high/low, indicators both sides, front and rear brake light, horn, with the engine running. No excuses.

16. Electrics charging:
Switch on the headlight and put your hand just in front of it. On low or high beam (sometimes you need the latter) you should see the light brighten noticeably when you raise the engine revs from idle to around 2000.

17. Muffler check:
Look for rust fairies, particularly on the underside of the muffler. Rev the engine and see if there's a rattle from the muffler indicating loose baffles.

18. Abuse check:
Run your hand under the footpegs, the lowest point on the headers, the lowest points of the fairing, the handlebar ends and the lever ends. Lots of scrapes and rough bits? A cupie doll to the reader that can guess what happened...

19. Engine leak test:
Look for oil leaks - some weeping from the top gasket on the engine is nothing to worry about and oil near the front sprocket is probably just over-enthusiastic chain-oiling. Look for major leaks elsewhere. If you see a green watery substance, you have a leak in the cooling system - a no-no.

20. Suspension:
Bounce both ends up and down with as much force as you can muster. Squeaks at the rear on monoshocks may indicate unhappy bushes, while oil leaks (lift fork gaiters if fitted) suggest a rebuild.

TAKE A ROAD TEST

We recommend a road test although it's not always possible. If you turn up with a friend who is willing to hang around while you go for a ride, your chances of a spin are increased. Remember, if you bin it, you own it.

What you're looking for is:

1. Those steering head bearings - try them at walking pace, lock-to-lock. Does it turn smoothly? Now a little quicker in the turns (no lock-to-lock this time) - is it equally happy in left and right turns or is the frame bent?

2. Brakes - a couple of gentle stops using the front then the rear levers in isolation will tell you if the discs or drums are warped. Pulsing levers or jerky stopping are bad news.

3. Gearshift - does it work all the gears smoothly?

4. Do the instruments work? A speedo that doesn't work is a basic roadworthy item.

5. Did it accelerate smoothly and immediately drop back to a predictable idle? Could you restart it instantly?

6. Who was in control - you or the bike? If it was the bike, will you overcome that problem?

SELF-PROTECTION

There's a whole heap of stuff you can do to protect yourself from making a bad decision - which we've outlined here. Another useful ploy is to take along a mate who is a little experienced in the bike world, but who isn't an opinionated know-all smart-alec. Someone who can offer advice, and knows when to suggest you should calm down - no matter how red the bike is.

[Patrick]

yup..agree totally Paul.. the internet is useful for something besides porn.. true story...[/QUOTE]

No! NO! Lies!!! That can't be true...

[SARGE]

I mean young at heart with the body of an action man (Aged a few years) :bleh:


you scare me...

[Sniper]

you scare me...

There are many occasions I scare myself, but back on topic, thanks for the wealth of info. It will come in handy to quite a few.

[SARGE]

There are many occasions I scare myself, but back on topic, thanks for the wealth of info. It will come in handy to quite a few.


being a reputable dealer myself, maybe this will help save some Trade-Me Tragedy from taking place..


make me a few $$ in the process..


i'm a mercenary MF after all

[The Stranger]

Yeah, more my point is that a stuffed chain and sprockets could set you back $250.00, possibly not a deal breaker, however stuffed brake discs could set you back $2,000.00.

[SARGE]

Yeah, more my point is that a stuffed chain and sprockets could set you back $250.00, possibly not a deal breaker, however stuffed brake discs could set you back $2,000.00.


true.. a fingernail will usually tell if the rotor is scored.. any pulsing on the test ride will be a dead giveaway..

[SARGE]

TRADING YOUR BIKE

MORE DEALER TIPS...


clean your bike
wash it, wax it, clean the wheels,...every hour i have to spend tidying it up will cost you a BUNCH on trade in price
have a verifiable service history
not " well ..i changed the oil 6 months ago.." have receipts or dealer history..
know how much your bike is worth
i know what i want for mine.. if you say " as much as i can get".. it will end up considerably less than you want.
lube your chain
basic maintenance is critical to the trade in price..( see # 1 above) a loose dirty chain makes me look deeper into the bike
get an ownership history.. makes a HUGE difference..
a fresh WOF will instill me with confidence about your bike..

[The Pastor]

Some one should sticky this thread :D

[Qkchk]

Talking about second-hand bikes.................... '05 Busa for sale by careful lady owner ;)

[SARGE]

Talking about second-hand bikes.................... '05 Busa for sale by careful lady owner ;)


did you buy the R1 i saw you on yesterday on the corner of Queen and K'Rd?

[moko]

TRADING YOUR BIKE
MORE DEALER TIPS...
lube your chain


I got told years ago that no matter how nice and shiny a bike is the chain is the best indicator of how well it`s really been looked after.If someone hasn`t got a clue how to properly adjust and lube a chain then they`re going to be pretty clueless about just about anything else mechanical so for me a good look at the chain and a check of the oil on the dipstick(to see the state of it not so much the level)are essential.

[Rincewind]

19. Engine leak test:
Look for oil leaks - some weeping from the top gasket on the engine is nothing to worry about and oil near the front sprocket is probably just over-enthusiastic chain-oiling. Look for major leaks elsewhere. If you see a green watery substance, you have a leak in the cooling system - a no-no.

20. Suspension:
Bounce both ends up and down with as much force as you can muster. Squeaks at the rear on monoshocks may indicate unhappy bushes, while oil leaks (lift fork gaiters if fitted) suggest a rebuild.

TAKE A ROAD TEST

We recommend a road test although it's not always possible. If you turn up with a friend who is willing to hang around while you go for a ride, your chances of a spin are increased. Remember, if you bin it, you own it.

What you're looking for is:

1. Those steering head bearings - try them at walking pace, lock-to-lock. Does it turn smoothly? Now a little quicker in the turns (no lock-to-lock this time) - is it equally happy in left and right turns or is the frame bent?

2. Brakes - a couple of gentle stops using the front then the rear levers in isolation will tell you if the discs or drums are warped. Pulsing levers or jerky stopping are bad news.

3. Gearshift - does it work all the gears smoothly?

4. Do the instruments work? A speedo that doesn't work is a basic roadworthy item.

Bloody Hell,that rules out about every bike from 1972 backwards,how are we ever going to sell our old Bonneviles and BSA's and Nortons and Vellocettes and and and and how are we ever going to learn how to use red hermetite !!!!!

[SARGE]

19. Engine leak test:
Look for oil leaks - some weeping from the top gasket on the engine is nothing to worry about and oil near the front sprocket is probably just over-enthusiastic chain-oiling. Look for major leaks elsewhere. If you see a green watery substance, you have a leak in the cooling system - a no-no.

20. Suspension:
Bounce both ends up and down with as much force as you can muster. Squeaks at the rear on monoshocks may indicate unhappy bushes, while oil leaks (lift fork gaiters if fitted) suggest a rebuild.

TAKE A ROAD TEST

We recommend a road test although it's not always possible. If you turn up with a friend who is willing to hang around while you go for a ride, your chances of a spin are increased. Remember, if you bin it, you own it.

What you're looking for is:

1. Those steering head bearings - try them at walking pace, lock-to-lock. Does it turn smoothly? Now a little quicker in the turns (no lock-to-lock this time) - is it equally happy in left and right turns or is the frame bent?

2. Brakes - a couple of gentle stops using the front then the rear levers in isolation will tell you if the discs or drums are warped. Pulsing levers or jerky stopping are bad news.

3. Gearshift - does it work all the gears smoothly?

4. Do the instruments work? A speedo that doesn't work is a basic roadworthy item.

Bloody Hell,that rules out about every bike from 1972 backwards,how are we ever going to sell our old Bonneviles and BSA's and Nortons and Vellocettes and and and and how are we ever going to learn how to use red hermetite !!!!!


hell mn .. noting like a god project bike.. just set your price accordingly ..

i picked up an old Harley years ago for US$30 ( some assembly required..)

[moko]

i picked up an old Harley years ago for US$30 ( some assembly required..)

Don't think I'd pay that much for a new one.

[rok-the-boat]

I have been riding/buying bikes for thirty years and have gotten used to what to look out for. I still get surprised though - it is very hard to check everything. What I have learned is that they are often selling because there is some issue with the bike. You just have to find it but often it takes a week or two of ownership to get to know a bike properly, and by then you have learned to live with it. Which is one danger with dealers because they have not ridden it much so have not found out its gremlins - then you show up and buy it. At the end of the day, all bikes have their idiosyncracies.

[Conquiztador]

Not wanna rain on anyones parade but...

I have been buying s/h bikes for more years then I can be bothered counting. I started reading all the good intentioned advice on here. I woke up from that I hit my head the keyboard. Needless to say I have never followed any of those.

My rules:

1. Have some JD and decide you need to add another old bike to the collection. Now!
2. Check how much cash you have.
3. Figure out where you can get some more cash from (If I don't buy cat food and don't pay the phone then...)
4. Look around for a bike that you can have straight away!! If you wait you will just sober up and make some boring sensible decision.
5. Get someone who you trust will agree with everything you say to drive you there.
6. Allow the first moment you see the bike to be the decision making one. If she makes your heart beat faster she is yours. But if you need some more JD then go and have some and then come back.
7. Pay the man and take her away. Leave all the details until you get her home. Treat her like any other sexy girl. (You just don't dress her down or test ride her in public!!!)
8. Get stuck in and neglect any mates, g/f's and obligations until she is ready willing and able (and has your personal touch as riding someone elses girl is not cool)
9. Don't count the costs!!!
10. Start all over again...

10 simple steps I live by that keeps my life interesting. You need some stories to tell. Nobody wants to sit and listen to your sensible ones over a beer (or two...)

[alanzs]

Sarge - Question, do you let someone ride your bike alone (or at all) as a test ride, when selling private party. I come from the land of law suits and this was always a no-no, as when the guy dumps your bike, you get sued and your bike is crashed or he rides it and gets a ticket, etc...
What's the protocol here? Just wondering as I am thinking of selling my bike in a few months...

[locojob]

Good advice mate. As I'm looking to buy my first bike I've read every word twice lol.

[motorbyclist]

Sarge - Question, do you let someone ride your bike alone (or at all) as a test ride, when selling private party. I come from the land of law suits and this was always a no-no, as when the guy dumps your bike, you get sued and your bike is crashed or he rides it and gets a ticket, etc...
What's the protocol here? Just wondering as I am thinking of selling my bike in a few months...

acc covers injury - just make sure they understand that if they break it they buy it. ask for a deposit like their keys first, or maybe a cash deposit so you know they're serious about the bike.

not allowing a test ride, however much you think they are just coming as a test pilot, will turn them away - i'd immediately think there was something you're hiding myself. if they aren't a buyer that's fine, if they are you just lost a sale

if you get a ticket in the post, simply send back the attached form saying you weren't riding the bike and they'll ask the rider if he infact was riding and provided he owns up it's all sweet - dunno what happens if he doesn't

[JBJB]

17. Muffler check:
Look for rust fairies, particularly on the underside of the muffler. Rev the engine and see if there's a rattle from the muffler indicating loose baffles.



Hi guys,

How seriously should I be concerned about some surface rust on an exhaust when I'm looking at a new bike?

Cheers

[motorbyclist]

depends on how fussy you are, but if the muffler gets filled with water often enough to rust a hole in it, that may be reason to expect rust elsewhere

myself, i dislike stock mufflers that have had baffles removed as the guy who's rough enough to smash out the guts of a muffler is usually rough enough not to tune the bike afterwards....

[n0regret5]

quality write up - cheers.

unfortunately (and ironically) the only bad purchase i made for a bike (died horribly two weeks into owning it, i was told it had just been tuned, oil change and new sparkplugs) was from a reputable dealership with MTO registration. and then it took over a month (maybe 6 weeks) for them to fix the bloody thing.
IMO..if you're buying a bike from a dealership, get the reciepts that it's been tuned and if something goes wrong you've got the right to free repairs (as long as you didn't do the damage yourself)..the only downside in buying privately is you don't have those rights. i'd rather buy privately though..at least you know the bike has been ridden properly in the past couple months/years..

[motorbyclist]

just on saturday i looked at a private sale. (http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=171130940)

and it was exactly why i'm now considering importing from japan instead of the NZ market.

"Good bike just been serviced
- Carb balanced.
- Aftermarket indicators.

Good condition "

total rubbish. those pics are the same from the last time this was on TM a few months back. since then it's lost a wingmirror and indicator hanging off doesn't work. the thing creaks, the choke cable is not connected to choke lever, it needs the idle adjusted as it warms, and some dick has visibly gutted the muffler with a steel rod/hammer instead of cutting it open.
it misfired above 5000rpm, had a ride and holy crap it had only two and a half (out of four) cylinders from 5ooorpm right upwards, never got it above 10k (reds at 4500)

got back, asked if he had got the carbies tuned before or after gutting the muffler and he was pretty vague - it's clearly suffering from lack of carby work, and removing all the backpressure/scavenging effect on a high performance engine without tuning = bad idea.

of course, having driven from the waitakeres to drury, i wasn't too happy. sure it could just be a matter of fixing the carbs, but if he won't admit it's running like a sick dog you've gotta wonder what else he isn't saying.

/rant

and a buyer jsut asked a question about tyres and mechanical issues. seller answers tyre question only

[breakaway]

Fuck, I know that shitty feeling. Here's a PM I sent when I was looking at buying another bike after selling my SV650S:


Yeah I've been looking into a couple.

But however today I was massively inconvenienced by a deceptive seller. Went to see/buy a GSXR 750 X 1999 - went by bus, had my heart set on buying it and riding it back. The bike was in Hamilton.

I got there, and I get him to start it up. Right from the moment I arrived, he kept going on about how another dude had come to see it twice and had already offered him $5000.

Anyway, he started it up - it was cold, and he took it straight to redline. This worried me a bit, but then when he backed off it a bit, I heard the dreaded cam chain rattle - which gixxer4ever had told me about. I asked him if the cam chain / tensioner were looked at, and he said no, so I got him to pillion me to the local bike shop where my initial diagnosis was confirmed.

It was on trademe for $5300, I expected to pay about $5200 maximum. I offered him $5100 in its current condition, and he practically told me to get fucked and that "The other guy will give me more".

What a shitty day. He hasn't stated anything about the cam chain rattle in the auction. I have asked a question though. However if he does get the cam chain fixed, I'm glad to give him $5500 for it. If this 'other guy' actually exists, he's a dumbass if he gives him more money for that bike in it's current state. I wonder if he even knows that the cam chain needs work.

Here's the kick in the balls - he stated that the bike is 'mint', and I told him I was coming all the way from Auckland, least he could have done is told me that it was rattling. Also the condition of the bike wasn't 'mint' - I went there expecting polished up triple clamps etc, but was quite disappointed to find bits on it to be oxidised. That's no biggie though.

Last time I checked, a 'mint' bike does not have problems with its cam chain. Maybe he thought I would be ****ing dumb and take it off him. Bad luck. Pretty pissed off about the lost day which I could have spent studying for my exam which is on friday. Had my heart set on it too.

[shards]

Just because there are f....wits out there deceiving, telling "porkies" and generally wasting other peoples time does not set the "precedent" for the experience of buying a used motorcycle.

As with most things in life, you always hear about the bad ones but never the (many) good ones.

I have bought/sold (privately) many bikes over the years I still believe that the experience is more likely to be good rather than bad.

In my (brief) personal experience, and that of friends, buying a Jap import guarantees NOTHING.

As always, it's down to the people involved.

[bobbydazzler]

hey, yeah they are all good things to know, but i do think there is a point to over fussyness. i would go as far as saying that more people than not have a tinker with a second hand bike once they have bought it, i.e new exhaust's maybe new paint etc etc. putting there own touches on it to make it there's. yes its a good idea to check for major damage that could be dangerous, and things like if its reported stolen, or has outstanding finance etc, but things like worn brake pads and stuff im not sure, they are all wear and tear items that WILL need replacing at some point anyway, even things like fork seals and chains and sprockets, will all need replacing in the future. alot of bikes will have scratches and have been painted at some point whether its just a touch up or a full respray, bikes fall over sometimes if there being ridden or not, it cant be helped, i bought my bike second hand from holeshot in takapuna, it was coverd in scratches, it had been dropped on both sides, it had fallen over more than once, not been down the road though as you can see by the scratches that were on it shallow and straight up and down. and 1 month into owning it the clutch engaging screw broke, they were of no use what so ever they didnt even return my calls, then it had running problems, "all fixed now :)" i wasnt too pee'd off as its a second hand bike at he end of the day, a few small problems are to be expected along the way, the only reall way of ridding yourself of any problems is to buy a brand new bike with a warrenty. my bike is sweet now runs nice goes nice, and has shiny new paint job. i sorted it all myself "apart from paint", more satisfying to do it myself :). i look after my bikes and cars, its very hard to tell how it was treated before . even having a service history and receipts dosnt mean serviced when it says it was. aslong as you look after it and treat it well, thats all that matters. well thats my opinion maybe wrong maybe right, o well. ive actually had better experiances buying/selling privatly too, over a dealer, dealers just want to get you in and out as fast as possible, to make bonus

[Squiggles]

Run the costs, sure some items are wear and tear, and you may need to replace soon, but if its chain and sprockets, tires, and brake pads you could be looking at the best part of a thousand dollars, so how much of a bargain is it still?

[bobbydazzler]

yeah i know what you mean, but your gonna be spending that money on any bike at some point. it could have brand new tyres on it, the next day you could run over something and split the tyre so it cant be repaired, and require a new tyre. buying any vehicle i think is all if's and buts, spending $5000 on a bike that apparently is all good, or spending $4000 on a bike that requires $1500 of work done on it. you may spend $500 more but you know in your mind that everything should be good, my point is, you never know whats going to happen, that $5000 bike could break down and cost $1000 to fix, attleast with the $4000 bike you should have some kind of warrenty if the parts break, or the garage ****** it up. i just dont think you can expect to buy a second hand vehicle and not have to spend money on it

[motorbyclist]

i think while some of us are a little "over fuzzy", pedantic or downright cynical, i'm yet to find a lemon bike from a private sale that i didn't intend as a project - sure i miss a few genuine bargains out there, but i've never been ripped off either while still managing to find a good deal... (dealers are a different story)

ie, a surprising number of newbie riders (or just not mechanically minded) will buy writeoffs and spend many times their worth trying to keep them going, all the while thinking they got a bargain.

and i assume that's who this thread is aimed at: those who will pay $70 an hour to have oil changed, and have no concept of how much a bike will cost if you buy it one part at a time

[motorbyclist]

yeah i know what you mean, but your gonna be spending that money on any bike at some point.

own the bike for 5 years, sure, the thousand bucks pans out

own it for 6-18 months, which most of this thread's target audience will be doing (learners and/or accident prone looking for cheap ride) and you may not need to spend that money at all

[bobbydazzler]

true, i suppose it depends on how long you plan on having the bike. and if you will be doing work yourself or not. .i myself have always gone with as long as its starts its ok, when buying a bike :P. i always want to fiddle with it. boring if it dosnt need any work lol. well within reason i, wont buy a complete piece of crap.

[motorbyclist]

haha same thing there - don't want a new bike cause i won't have anything to do to it

and i run my bikes into the ground rather than sell em - why buy a machine if you aren't going to keep it? only reason i've upgraded to the nc35 is my nc30 was stolen

[bobbydazzler]

i used to have an nc30 race prep bike in the uk, was a fantastic bike. i was gutted when i got ran over. :( it was imaculate until then. looked like this, but i had bridgestones not pirelli :),

it was capable of beating r6's on tracks would go round corners like it was on rails :P

http://www.hoc.org.uk/gallery/bikes/VFR400_NC30.JPG

sorry for putting this in an inapropriate place

[SARGE]

bump..............

[Grizzo]

Thanks Sarge, some good advice there!

[TZ350]

Spectrum

The largest suppler of used motorcycles out of Japan.

100% Kiwi owned.

Check them out:- http://www.trade.co.jp/index.html

Get your next Track Day or Race Bike or whatever from here.

.

[SARGE]

Spectrum

The largest suppler of used motorcycles out of Japan.

100% Kiwi owned.

Check them out:- http://www.trade.co.jp/index.html

Get your next Track Day or Race Bike or whatever from here.

.

yea .. i know the owner of the place .. interviewed for a job before i got Sulco.. nice guy

(last i saw he had this one of a kind carbon Apriliia [i think].. sex on wheels)

[ready4whatever]

thanks for that. want to buy a near new ninja or something similar so hopefully wont get major problems

[SARGE]

thanks for that. want to buy a near new ninja or something similar so hopefully wont get major problems



the updated version is on wikepedia.. always being added to

[Markw336]

Cheers SARGE thanks for the advice ill be sure to use this when considering buying a bike

[SARGE]

Cheers SARGE thanks for the advice ill be sure to use this when considering buying a bike

check the Wiki article i wrote



http://www.wikihow.com/Buy-a-Used-Motorcycle

[Reckless]

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free mca training (http://training.jsrsolutions.com/registration.aspx)

Same post 3 different threads I'm to scared to click the link in case its a virus!

[Sheene_No7]

a healthy dose of cynisism goes a long way....

been looking for an XR650, there is one on Trademe - vendor goes into detail explaining an oil blow-by problem which would be 'easily fixed with some larger diameter tube'. Now, if you were selling the bike, you would spend the $5 on a new piece of tube, spend 10 minutes fitting it - then you don't have to even mention it - unless there is something else wrong of course..........

[motorbyclist]

and for the same reason, "new rings & pistons fitted over $XXXX spent just like new!!!!" is a BAD sign. This immediately means they let things get bad enough to sieze/ruin the motor, and having spent the money they want to get rid of it before anything else goes wrong.

I know a guy who bought an FZR250 like that - 3 days later the crank snapped, obviously bent from the siezure that required the rebuild and never replaced

[.produKt]

Quote: "Another useful ploy is to take along a mate who is a little experienced in the bike world, but who isn't an opinionated know-all smart-alec."

Haven't found one of those yet!

Where does i find?
:P

[motorbyclist]

doesn't exist, most definitely

[RAJAH1]

[QUOTE=SARGE;549815]one bike's 'Character' is another bike's severe mechanical problem......


Exactly some think Ducatis have character........:laugh:

[Zyre]

Hi,

Im buying a motorbike from a private seller and then getting it transported to where I live. That means I cannot do the deal face to face. What is the best way to handle this? Signing over ownership, payment and all of that. I am not from NZ so I dont really know how it works here.

[nzbiker86]

Hey there

You can do ownership transfer electronically and do an online transfer to the sellers bank account. You can track the funds then and have proof of payment.
Definitely ensure you have at least an email with his full details inc driver licence number and confirmation of agreed sale.
Have you had someone assess the bike or had it appraised?
I'm not sure I would ever buy another vehicle without a test ride and seeing it in person.

What have you purchased?

Rich

[huff3r]

I'd imagine the deals long done, since the post was from 2012...

[nzbiker86]

Ha ha Im sure that came up as a new post!
Well that solid advice can remain on the thread :confused:

[GoJohnGo]

Good writeup; I've also used the Used Motorcycle Evaluation Guide (http://www.clarity.net/adam/buying-bike.html).

Some NZ-specific stuff I've learned through my recent purchase (moved here recently from the US):

Vehicles don't have titles as they do in the US, so it's possible for someone to sell you a bike that they don't own or that they still owe money on. Pay the $15 or so to get a VIN report from CarJam (https://www.carjam.co.nz/), ThatCar (https://thatcar.nz/), MotorWeb (https://www.motorweb.co.nz/), AA (https://www.aa.co.nz/cars/buying-a-car/car-buying-guide/car-history-checks-and-reports/), or others. I ended up using CarJam and found some interesting things.

We did the transaction as a bank-to-bank transfer. I verified the seller's account number and amount, did the transfer on my bank app as they watched, and let them take a screenshot. Pretty slick.

Fill out a Bill of Sale. There's lots of great info at Consumer Protection (https://www.consumerprotection.govt.nz/help-product-service/cars/finding-the-right-car/buying-car-privately/)and they even have a Bill of Sale template here (https://www.consumerprotection.govt.nz/help-product-service/cars/paying-registering-insuring-car/car-sales-contracts-warranties/#contracts-when-you-buy-privately). You can also pay for more legalese versions at Documatica (https://www.documatica-forms.com/new-zealand/bill-of-sale/form.php?doc=BOS&ftime=false&reloaded=true&cu=) or LawDepot (https://www.lawdepot.com/nz/bill-of-sale/).

Interestingly, odo readings are recorded at WOF inspections, but not as part of a sale.