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View Full Version : Clipped vs Rivet connecting links



GSVR
30th March 2006, 16:30
Heres a question mainly for the guys that have been racing a few years.

How many of you use riveted links vs clipped links.

I've heard a few stories of guys loosing chains with clipped links but was that becuase the chain was babdly worn and the link old or what.

Noticed Jarrod Love lost his chain at Paeroa (wonder if he had a clipped or rivet link or if it just fell off)

Thanks in advance.

Two Smoker
30th March 2006, 16:42
On smaller cc bikes clip links are ok.... But on my 400 i quite often lose the clip link due to rough gear changes and rear end chatter etc (even when heavily lockwired)

I highly recommend rivet link over anything else...

R6_kid
30th March 2006, 16:50
word i got from the shop was that clip links are only rated to about 160kmh so are ok-ish on bikes up to around 250cc, or those use for gentle commuting. As i was about to put the chain on the R6, i quickly opted for a rivet link!

Also clip links are a weak point in the chain, whereas a rivet link can pretty much be thought of as 'just another link in the chain'

Motu
30th March 2006, 17:11
What sort of link do you think Burt Munroe was using?

We used to put the link on the inside on trials bikes - seeing as it's a difficult and skilled sport,it's only fitting that the chain link be a difficult and skilled job to replace.Can't be stuffed with that now....

Cajun
30th March 2006, 19:18
i only use rivited

i had a clip chain come off and lock up my rear at about 70km/h i was lucky i was on a straight bit of road, and did not happen in the previous 30kms worth of twistys i had just come out off

speedpro
30th March 2006, 21:52
I got a big old DID630 with a clip link and so far it's been good up to 312k. I can't see how the link could be the "weak link" just because it has a clip instead of being peened. How many people have the correct staking tool anyway. Staking? Instead I think it's probably the best link in the chain. How many others get dissasembled,cleaned, lubed, and reassembled? I've always laughed at people who do things like put a little dob of silastic on the clip or even put a bit of lockwire around it. With the forces involved as it whips round the sprockets it isn't going to make any difference.

Brian d marge
31st March 2006, 01:06
Sorry v tired at mo , so quick reply !
Think about the forces and the direction of the forces . and the masses .
The clip has greater chance of coming off during say wheel chatter, the rivet well almst impossible to come loose

On saying that I have used a clip for the last three seasons of MX with no prob at all , ( I replace with new everytime I remove it )

I would be using the rivit if I was racing, or had spent a large amount on me bike ,,,

Stephen

GSVR
31st March 2006, 15:47
Thanks for all the replies.

Up till now I've always gone to rivet links and o ring chains but now Ive gone to a 520 chain and a clipped link. I never worried alot about the o ring chains just cleaning and lubricating them.

With the non o ring I want to take it off alot and give it a good clean and grease. The rivet link would turn this into a major hassle so for now I'll try the clipped link and keep a good eye on the connecting link.

Next race meet I'll go around a few of the 600 guys who use the same chain and see what they do as they have the same size chain and do heaps more KPH than me.

gpercivl
6th April 2006, 16:14
I'd recommend a rivetted link on all race bikes...have seen a few clips ping off over the years and in two cases the chain smashed the back out of the engine and dumped oil on the track. Also Sally Steadman's racing career was ended when she ran over a dropped chain in a 125GP race. It wrapped around the front wheel and she ended up with a fractured skull among other things. So probably a good safety policy for everyone else there too :yeah:

GSVR
6th April 2006, 16:53
I'd recommend a rivetted link on all race bikes...have seen a few clips ping off over the years and in two cases the chain smashed the back out of the engine and dumped oil on the track. Also Sally Steadman's racing career was ended when she ran over a dropped chain in a 125GP race. It wrapped around the front wheel and she ended up with a fractured skull among other things. So probably a good safety policy for everyone else there too :yeah:

Well further updating my clipped connection. I looked at my chain after a ride and to my surpise the clip was missing. I replaced it with a new connecting link that I had brought as a spare and also cleaned up the sufaces and fitted the new clip with loctite 660 thinking this would really stop the chance of it falling off.

After ones days ride (admittedly long day in the wet) the whole thing is loose and looks like its ready to fall off again. The clip is actually loose and rattlely on the chain now.

So its no more clipped links for me. The risk of a major incident is to great.

F5 Dave
6th April 2006, 17:39
I bought the tool for DID chain. Seems like a lot at the time but you'll treasure it for years to come.
Makes it easy for pressing on the plates modern (mid-larger) chains all run.
I run riveted on all my bikes bar the buckets.

Buy a couple of cheap $2 shop brushes to clean the worst of the gunk off on a dirtbike and/or just toothbrush & kero to finish/for road.

Hoon
6th April 2006, 17:49
I'm totally sick of losing clips off my chains. I go through one clip every 2-3 visits to the track. At $10 a pop it gets expensive and can put an end to your racing if you run out of spares (thanks gpercivl for covering me that last round!).

The clips don't come lose, they break. I've siliconed and lockwired my clips in place and sometimes a piece of clip gets left in the silicone.

If anyone knows of any good deals for chain riveting tools please let me know as I'm over clips!

Cajun
7th April 2006, 16:13
You checked out ebay or simlar Hoon mate? Even local bike shop

I guess for somone like you who would go thru would be handy even if you and a couple of mates chiped in together and paid for it,

Cajun
7th April 2006, 16:20
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MOTORCYCLE-CHAIN-BREAKER-RIVETER-TOOL-KIT_W0QQitemZ4627449516QQcategoryZ111120QQrdZ1QQcm dZViewItem (not to sure on buy now but first bit is US$30 even for US$50 its a cheap over all, over cost of live time, and you can charge friends a if they wish to borrow it) or simlar

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Motorcycle-Chain-Tool-Breaker-Rivet-Kit-RiveterTools-RK_W0QQitemZ4628063151QQcategoryZ35600QQrdZ1QQcmdZ ViewItem

erik
7th April 2006, 21:54
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MOTORCYCLE-CHAIN-BREAKER-RIVETER-TOOL-KIT_W0QQitemZ4627449516QQcategoryZ111120QQrdZ1QQcm dZViewItem (not to sure on buy now but first bit is US$30 even for US$50 its a cheap over all, over cost of live time, and you can charge friends a if they wish to borrow it) or simlar

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Motorcycle-Chain-Tool-Breaker-Rivet-Kit-RiveterTools-RK_W0QQitemZ4628063151QQcategoryZ35600QQrdZ1QQcmdZ ViewItem
I've got the same tool as in the first link. Got it from Mt Eden Motorcycles, they had to order it in but it only took a day or two. It's in the DIRT GUIDE '06 little pamphelt book thing on page 56 for NZ$79.95. I used it for my cam chain, haven't used it on a drive chain yet.
The rivet tool uses a rounded end and I don't think it's all that hard; I tested it on a normal (drive chain) link to see what would happen and it flattened off a bit. It is a bit hard to make sure the rivet tool stays centred on the pin (for a cam chain at least).
I haven't been able to find out much about the DID tool. just a few links to pictures mostly.
http://www.rsvr.net/pages/performance2.asp?section=s4&subsection=CHAINS#
http://www.mcleodaccessories.com.au/products/did/did.asp?display=conlinks

erik
7th April 2006, 23:08
Does anyone know if you can use a rivet link from an o-ring chain on a standard (non-o-ring) chain? I've got a standard RK chain on the bandit and apparently rivet links aren't available for them.
The joiner link is a clip link and it's the type where the side plate is a clearance fit, not a press fit, on the pins. So if the clip goes, I'd guess the plate would fall off straight away.
Reading all this stuff about rivet links falling off is making me nervous...

Jantar
7th April 2006, 23:49
In my early days of riding, I have had an equal number of rivet links and clip fail. Having said that, I do tend to give chains a hard time, and a s a result I have to replace chains more often than most riders.

In recent years I have used almost exclusivly riveted links, but I still carry a chain tool and a spare clip link for use in an emergency.

Ixion
8th April 2006, 08:46
I have never known a properly fitted clipped link fail in road riding. However, I have no experience of racing where the loads are presumably higher.The properly fitted bit is important. And I only use good quality chain and links.

roogazza
8th April 2006, 10:09
I have never known a properly fitted clipped link fail in road riding. However, I have no experience of racing where the loads are presumably higher.The properly fitted bit is important. And I only use good quality chain and links.


Same for me Ixion, never had a failure from a clipped link in 40 years !

If you wander through the Bandit.com forum you'll see several drag racers think clips are no problem and some of them are up to 150 Hp out the back.
Each to his own I guess ? G.

Milky
8th April 2006, 23:59
while my experience is limited, the clip link stayed put for the 13000ks I have had my 400, and probably did more distance prior to me owning the bike. It was a pain to get off too.

laRIKin
9th April 2006, 11:56
I have only ever lost one clip on a bike and that was just after I bought it.
And have had bikes and raced on and off for 30 years, on and off road.
My old side car (1100cc) with its weight and wide rear wheel use to load a poor chain to the max.

Here is a tip or two that may help you guys out.
When you put the clip on, first look at it and run your finger around it.
You will notice that it has a shape edge and a rounded edge.
Put the shaper edge to the OUTSIDE and that way it bites on to the pin and will hold on better and of course make sure the clip is facing the right way.
I also put my chain breaker on both pins to make sure that the side plate it hard up to the clip.
Hope this helps

Ivan
10th April 2006, 14:39
My RS125 runs a clip link chain and I have had no problems and has never given me greif all I did was put on some silicone over te link and it helps hold it. My brothers RS125 also runs a clip link chain with lockwire holding it, I think that if you put the link on without damaging it you wont lose it in a hurry,

Two Smoker
10th April 2006, 15:00
Its not the load that makes the clip link fail, its the jerking from the chain... For instance on a race track, you will be spinning up the rear coming out of a corner, add to that bumps in the track and you have alot of movement in chain from the constant compression and rebound of the shock... This causes the clip to fail (ive had alot fail, and i too am sick of buying new clips)...

So to sum it up... Race bikes, use rivet link... Road bikes... Use what you like, but a clip link and rivet link are the same price... better to have peace of mind isnt it???

Hoon... Ray Clee got Nicko a RK chain tool... has heaps of different attatchments... $110 or $150 cant remember which...

roogazza
10th April 2006, 17:54
[QUOTE=Two Smoker]Its not the load that makes the clip link fail, its the jerking from the chain... For instance on a race track, you will be spinning up the rear coming out of a corner, add to that bumps in the track and you have alot of movement in chain from the constant compression and rebound of the shock... This causes the clip to fail (ive had alot fail, and i too am sick of buying new clips)...

So to sum it up... Race bikes, use rivet link... Road bikes... Use what you like, but a clip link and rivet link are the same price... better to have peace of mind isnt it???



After reading this and your earlier post I'm wondering whether all the chain movement has something to do with more modern bikes and maybe more rear wheel travel ? Whatever , good advice . Good luck with the ops and recovery. G.

laRIKin
10th April 2006, 18:06
If you are breaking clips you may be damaging it when you are putting it on or off.
Maybe by over stretching it, you can make it weak or to start to fracture.
The clip after all is not under a real load, that is taken by the side plate's and rollers.
The clip is just their to just stops the end plate popping off.
Riveting is better but not all ways necessary.

Because some are breaking clips and I do not know how you are putting them on and I have seen in the passed some people stretch the crap out of clips.
So please bear with me if I'm teaching you to suck eggs.

First it is easier to take the clip on and off, on the rear sprocket.

Pic 1/ Bang the handle with your hand on the handle of the screw drive and the clip will pop off, you may have to tap one of the legs of the clip after this to get it off.

Pic 2/ Make sure that "U" part of the clip and the two legs are in the groove of both pins.
This helps you not stretching the clip to much and weaken it.
Then give the shaft of the screw driver a good hit with your hand.
And yes some times the clips fly's across the floor. (You can swear then)
And check the clip is sitting in the groove, sometimes if you put the screw drive 90 degs to the clip and tap the handle will set the clip in the groove.

By the way make sure you are using the right clip, as they can and do differ from brand to brand.