Suzuki TR50 Info

[circuitR]

Hi guys,
I just brought a TR50, and being new to scooters I was wondering if there were handy tips about these little machines.
I've got a few things that concern me.
First of all there is some oil coming out inbetween the engine and the exaust pipe, should I be concerned?
Also the drivetrain starts to vibrate when I go over 50k, it feels like the belt maybe getting old and stretched.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

[MidnightMike]

I cant help you out but welcome to KB.
Im sure someone will help you out. :cool:
There are somesmart cookies amongst us.

[circuitR]

Thanks Mike,
I've already solved the vibration problem. The rear wheel was a little loose.
I'm hoping the oil leak is just a broken gasket.
Thanks again

[Qkchk]

Hiya

Great little bikes, I have one myself that I commute to work on. If you ever need to know anything about the TR50 the best member to speak to is WINJA, he knows them inside and out and upside down.

What mods has it got if any? I have got a race pipe with a aftermarket CDI. Got 4g weight rollers in it, can pull wheelies with a top speed of about 70kms. Can get heavier rollers that could put that top speed nearly up 100kph. Not bad for a 50cc eh?

[WINJA]

Hi guys,
I just brought a TR50, and being new to scooters I was wondering if there were handy tips about these little machines.
I've got a few things that concern me.
First of all there is some oil coming out inbetween the engine and the exaust pipe, should I be concerned?
Also the drivetrain starts to vibrate when I go over 50k, it feels like the belt maybe getting old and stretched.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

WITH THE OIL COMING OUT AT THE FLANGE , YOU CAN REMOVE THE PIPE CLEAN IT UP AND REFIT WITH ROOFING SILICONE , REPLACE THE NORMAL SREWS WITH STAINLESS CAP SCREWS , BUT QUALITY 2 STROKE OIL FOR IT , RUN THE LOT YOU HAVE IN THERE RIGHT DOWN AND GO SEE MOTO MAIL FOR SOME SYNTHETIC OR SEMI SYNTHETIC MOTUL , ITS WELL WORTH PUTTING GOOD OIL IN IT .
IF IT IS A ROUND INDICATOR MODEL WITH ALUMINIUM FOOT PEGS I FOUND MOST TO BE A BIT SHUDERY UP TOP DEPENDS ON IF THEY HIT THE REV LIMITER OR NOT , THE BELTS DO GET OLD AND STRETCHED AND THIS CAN MAKE THE SHUDDERING WORSE AS ITS MORE LIKELY TO HIT THE LIMITER B4 RUNNIG OUT OF ENOUGH POWER TO PUSH THE THING ALONG , WHEN YOU REPLACE THE BELT REPLACE THOSE SCREWS IN THE SIDE COVER AS WELL , IF YOU TAKE OFF THE VARIATOR ALWAYS PUT A BIT OF LOCTITE ON THE NUT ON THE END OF THE SHAFT .CHECK YOUR ROLLERSARENT TO WORN , WORN ROLLERS DONT PUSH OUT ENOUGH
MY BEST TIP IS TO LEAVE THE FUCKER STANDARD

[Qkchk]

MY BEST TIP IS TO LEAVE THE FUCKER STANDARD
Yeah I know what ya mean.......... more revs, more wear 'n tear. A/Market pipe broken of the mounts twice already. Bloody pain in the arse.

[circuitR]

Thanks for your help guys, I really appreciate it.

Qkchk: The bike is a stock 2001 Street magic 2. Dunno about modding it, I too will be using it to go to work. But have been thinking of making my own pipe, just gotta do a whole lotta reserch, plus my new boss did a bit of bucket racing in his day. So I will be picking his brains.
I see you are getting an R1, my friend has one. Friggin leathal!

WINJA: I'm glad you think the oil leak is no major, time to get the stud extractors as back up. I'm off to get some Motul.

Just another dumb noobie question, do these things have a sump? or is the pre mix the only oil for it?

Thanks again, you guys rock!

[Qkchk]

Just another dumb noobie question, do these things have a sump? or is the pre mix the only oil for it?

No sump..........Under the tailsection of the bike there is a keyhole (prob under a cover), pop ya key in there and that will release the seat. You will see the oil tank next to the battery. These bikes are automactic oilers, hence you dont have to pre-mix your oil/fuel. Just keep it topped up - but as WINJA advised, run it low as first before changing to your new oil. Hope this helps.

[circuitR]

Sweet, Thanks again.
Time to plan the exhaust and save for new tires, those crappy Knobblys have gotta go.
I'll have a pic of the bike in my profile.

[WINJA]

Sweet, Thanks again.
Time to plan the exhaust and save for new tires, those crappy Knobblys have gotta go.
I'll have a pic of the bike in my profile.
IF ITS GOT THE STOCK BRIDGESTONE MOLAS ON THEIR ABOUT AS GOOD AS TYRES GET , YOU CAN ALSO GET MICHELIN DEXTERS WHICH ARE OK, THE CONTINENTAL ZIPPYS ARE SHIT IN THE WET .
I CAN GET MY KNEE DOWN IN THE WET ON A SET OF BS MOLAS AG TYRES , SO JUST TRY TO GET THE REGULAR MOLAS AND YOULL BE COOL

[WINJA]

Just another dumb noobie question, do these things have a sump? or is the pre mix the only oil for it?

!
I THINK IF YOU TAKE THE BACK WHEEL OFF YOULL FIND A FILL POINT FOR FINAL DRIVE OIL , DONT QOUTE ME ON THAT I LAST CHECKED MINE IN 1999 I THINK

[texmo]

Get some metlezers for it they ruel best tyres for scooter IMHO.

[Qkchk]

Hey WINJA, got a question 4 ya.

On my carb there is two adjustments, the larger one (with the outside finger thread) is I assume the Idle adjustment. Im pretty sure the smaller adjuster (with a flat-head screwdriver cut) is mixture. What SHOULD my settings be? I've toot-tued with the settings trying different things. Would adjusting the mixture in/out make difference to where the power is more concentrated? Like for eg: Ive noticed with the screw almost in it lacks down lower revs but seems to rev higher..........(if it makes any sense...) Would running a 2-stroker lean give it the chance to burn a hole in the piston?

Ta.

[WINJA]

Hey WINJA, got a question 4 ya.

On my carb there is two adjustments, the larger one (with the outside finger thread) is I assume the Idle adjustment. Im pretty sure the smaller adjuster (with a flat-head screwdriver cut) is mixture. What SHOULD my settings be? I've toot-tued with the settings trying different things. Would adjusting the mixture in/out make difference to where the power is more concentrated? Like for eg: Ive noticed with the screw almost in it lacks down lower revs but seems to rev higher..........(if it makes any sense...) Would running a 2-stroker lean give it the chance to burn a hole in the piston?

Ta.
BIGGER IS IDLE , SMALLER IS IDLE MIXTURE . I SET MY IDLE MIXTURE SO IT HAD MAX REVS , SO AS YOU TURN IT BACK AND FORTH IT WILL GAIN AND LOSE REVS AS IT GOES LEAN THEN PERFECT THEN RICH , IF YOUR HAVING TROUBLE GETTING A STABLE IDLE POP THE CARB OFF TAKE THE BOWL OFF AND CHECK THE JETS , DONT POKE NOTHING IN THERE JUST USE CRC CARB CLEAN AND COMPRESSED AIR , I ALREADY FUCKED A JET BY POKING A PIECE OF LOCK WIRE THRU , THE MAGICS IDLE JET(I THINK) IS SO SMALL YOU CAN BARELY GET A HAIR THRU IT.
THEY HOLE PISTONS VERY EASILY YOU GOTTA GO UP ON THE MAIN JET WITH A DIFFERNT PIPE , THE GUY IN MORNINGSIDE DRIVE NEAR YOU HAS SOME IN STOCK .I GOT A BOX FULLA FUCKED PISTONS SOMEWHERE

SOME OF THE INFO I GIVE MAYBE MODEL SPECIFIC , THERES A FEW DIFFERNT MODELS FLOATING ABOUT SOME HAVE 12 MM CARBS SOME HAVE 14MM ETC

[WINJA]

Hey WINJA, got a question 4 ya.

On my carb there is two adjustments, the larger one (with the outside finger thread) is I assume the Idle adjustment. Im pretty sure the smaller adjuster (with a flat-head screwdriver cut) is mixture. What SHOULD my settings be? I've toot-tued with the settings trying different things. Would adjusting the mixture in/out make difference to where the power is more concentrated? Like for eg: Ive noticed with the screw almost in it lacks down lower revs but seems to rev higher..........(if it makes any sense...) Would running a 2-stroker lean give it the chance to burn a hole in the piston?

Ta.
I THINK THEY RUN RICHER ON 91 , SO IF YOUR NOT USING IT TRY IT.
ALSO THEY COME WITH A BPR6HS STANDARD AND I THINK I PUT A BR6HS IN OR EQUIVELENT GOLD PALADIUM , THE 'P' MEANS POTRUDING WHICH PUTS THE SPARK CLOSER TO THE CROWN INCREASING THE CHANCE OF HOLING THE PISTON .
SEE IF YOU CAN RAISE YOUR NEEDLE TO RICH IT UP , JUST UNCREW THE CARB TOP AND SEE IF IT HAS CLIPS .

SPEED PRO KNOWS HIS STROKERS BETTER THAN ANYONE

[circuitR]

I ain't touching my carb, she idles fine.
Should I be running mine on 98 octane? Being a jap import, I've been told the lowest octane over there is 100. Or is that BS

OT, Congrats on selling the Busa Qkchk, I bet your hanging out for the R1!

[WINJA]

I ain't touching my carb, she idles fine.
Should I be running mine on 98 octane? Being a jap import, I've been told the lowest octane over there is 100. Or is that BS

OT, Congrats on selling the Busa Qkchk, I bet your hanging out for the R1!
THE CARB BIT WAS FOR QKCHK.
JUST RUN IT ON 91, THEY CAN RUN ON AS LOW AS 88 OCTANE

[Qkchk]

Thanks WINJA, I had a looky the other day and what you have said made sense. Ive adjusted it and its running much better. What is the lightest rollers you can get these things? Im pretty sure I have 4g set in.

[WINJA]

Thanks WINJA, I had a looky the other day and what you have said made sense. Ive adjusted it and its running much better. What is the lightest rollers you can get these things? Im pretty sure I have 4g set in.
CANT REMEMBER THE WEIGHTS BUT NY COLOUR THE YELLOW WAS OK THE WHITES TO LIGHT , THEY WOULDNT PUSH OUT ENOUGH AND IT SLOWED THE TOP END

[circuitR]

91 eh, cool. My petrol budget just got better.

I went and got some stainless bolt for the exhaust and when I went to take the exhaust off to fix the leak, I realised one of the original bolts has vibrated out and the other one came out easy.
Lucky me.

[JeremyW]

Hey Winja,

You seem to have some good advice, just a quick question, is there much difference in the tuning/maintenence of the 110 street magic? I have just purchased a 02 model and am LOVING it! It seems to vibrate a shiteload more than the 50's (well the one i rode) and I want to play with some stuff to see if I can make it better.

Cheers

[WINJA]

Hey Winja,

You seem to have some good advice, just a quick question, is there much difference in the tuning/maintenence of the 110 street magic? I have just purchased a 02 model and am LOVING it! It seems to vibrate a shiteload more than the 50's (well the one i rode) and I want to play with some stuff to see if I can make it better.

Cheers
I DONT KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT THE 110 ,BUT IF ITS ANYTHING LIKE THE 50 THEN LEAVE IT STANDARD

[MrMelon]

I just got a new belt and rollers for mine to hopefully get rid of a bit of shudder. Are there any tricks to make changing them over easier?

[WINJA]

I just got a new belt and rollers for mine to hopefully get rid of a bit of shudder. Are there any tricks to make changing them over easier?
REPLACE THE SCREWS WITH CAP SCREWS IN THE SIDE COVER , PUT THE ABSOLUTE LIGHTEST SMEAR OF MOLY ANTI SEIZE ON THE VARIATOR SHAFT , USE LOCTITE ON THE VARIATOR LOCK NUT

[MrMelon]

Well I replaced the belt and rollers and the vibration's completely gone. The old rollers were white and had 2 massive flat spots on each of em. Not sure what weight they were but The ones I replced em with look like a graphite colour and are 8g. It feels like it's a little less snappy down low now though. Might make wheelies a bit of a bitch. I also removed this, I think it's part of the electric start which doesnt seem to work on mine anyway. It doesnt need to be left in there does it?

[WINJA]

Well I replaced the belt and rollers and the vibration's completely gone. The old rollers were white and had 2 massive flat spots on each of em. Not sure what weight they were but The ones I replced em with look like a graphite colour and are 8g. It feels like it's a little less snappy down low now though. Might make wheelies a bit of a bitch. I also removed this, I think it's part of the electric start which doesnt seem to work on mine anyway. It doesnt need to be left in there does it?
PROLLY OK WITHOUT BUT I CANT BE 100% SURE.

[MrMelon]

Seems to go fine without that part.

What weight rollers would be best for a stock street magic. The 8g ones I put in there have raised the top speed to 70, but I've got next to no acceleration down low. 4g should give me the low down power I want, but would 5 or 6g rollers be a better compromise? I still want to be able to pull wheelies and it looks like it'll be pretty much impossible with 8g rollers.

Cheers

[WINJA]

Seems to go fine without that part.

What weight rollers would be best for a stock street magic. The 8g ones I put in there have raised the top speed to 70, but I've got next to no acceleration down low. 4g should give me the low down power I want, but would 5 or 6g rollers be a better compromise? I still want to be able to pull wheelies and it looks like it'll be pretty much impossible with 8g rollers.

Cheers
I PUT IN YELLOW OR WHITE ONES, DEPENDS ON THE VARIATOR I USE , HAVE A BOB EACH WAY TRY 3 OF EACH ,I ALSO ONLY RAN 3 HEAVY ONES ONCE TRYING TO GET THE BALANCE RIGHT

[MrMelon]

Cheers, might give 3 8g ones a go, and if i need more speed maybe a mix of 8g's and 4g's. Don't know how even that'd be but I'll find out.

[MrMelon]

3 8g rollers were way too light, which makes me think that maybe my old rollers were 6g. They're white and the new ones are graphite coloured. I put 3 of the new rollers and the least fucked looking of the 3 old rollers in and that's given it a bit more balls down low... enough for wheelies anyway. Top speed's still above 60 so I can live with that. I'll have to see how it performs up steep hills later this arvo.

[athol57]

Hi guys.Dont know if this is part of this thread but here we go.Does anyone know what the difference is between an english tr50s and the jap or nz models?
I have found out that the barrels are different(somehow detuned)
Has anyone ported a uk model to make it like the nz ones?looking for some help.
regards geo

[Street Gerbil]

UK Magic's headlight is twice as powerful: 25Wt ws 12 for Japanese one.
I wonder if there is a store in NZ or UK that sells this type of lamps - it is awfully dark in the evening at this time of year.

[Street Gerbil]

Well I replaced the belt and rollers and the vibration's completely gone. The old rollers were white and had 2 massive flat spots on each of em. Not sure what weight they were but The ones I replced em with look like a graphite colour and are 8g. It feels like it's a little less snappy down low now though. Might make wheelies a bit of a bitch. I also removed this, I think it's part of the electric start which doesnt seem to work on mine anyway. It doesnt need to be left in there does it?
Probably a stupid question but have you tried to push the starter button while engaging the brakes at the same time? I was certain the battery on mine was shot until I figured out that part...

[MrMelon]

Yeah tried that on my one.. doesn't help. It's going wrong somewhere else. It's all good though, kick starting is more manly.

Going to try going back to white rollers in the variator though. Since putting a bit of meths in the gas tank it feels like it's got power once you get over 40km/h but bugger all below, so if the lighter rollers sort it then I'll keep em in there. Should really get the carb off and give it a blast with the compressed air when I get a chance though just to rule that out.

[Slarty]

Hi WINJA, any thoughts on where to start with this? My TR is unmodified but struggles to start. I usually end up kicking it alot. It acts like starvation - it'll run for a few seconds then stop. Can't touch the throttle because it stalls it. Eventually (30 kicks or so) it will keep running long enough that I can tickle it up on the throttle, then runs like a dream for the rest of the day. thought about starting by cleaning out the carb like you say? Cheers

[texmo]

winja no longer posts here. see www.sportsbike.co.nz

[tedstreetmagic]

Hi everyone, ive just got a suzuki tr50 street magic and ive fiddled around with the oil setting on the carb, how many turns does it need and my bike has also started splultering today and was wondering if the rain has got into my bike?? and do you know were to get racing exhausts from for these bikes, Thanks

[Street Gerbil]

Hi everyone, ive just got a suzuki tr50 street magic

Congrats!



and do you know were to get racing exhausts from for these bikes, Thanks
Adrian from Scootling.co.nz sells them on TradeMe