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Tas
30th April 2004, 22:28
Can anyone help with info on setting up the forks on my '88 FZR.?
The manual doesn't cover my style of forks, which I understand (with a lot of help from celticn06...thanks) to be the same style as the 92 & later FZR1000, as they have adjustable preload on the outside.

Any help appreciated.

riffer
1st May 2004, 08:04
Tas, those forks are WAY too high in the triple clamp.

They should have the fork top basically flush with the top of the triple clamp.

The way you have them set up you will have a VERY fast steering and pretty skittery bike...

Try pulling the forks down in the triple clamps. The pdf I sent you should show you how to do this. Then set the preload and damping to the middle adjustments, and work from there.

As I have FZR1000 forks in my FZR750 I can't help much, but perhaps White Trash and fizzerman can offer some advice on how these forks can be best set up... WT & FM - any help?

Tas
3rd May 2004, 21:11
Thanks celticno6, Adjusted them down to flush with the tripple clamp. Went for a good ride over the weekend and "what a difference". I've only had the bike 2 weeks and still learning/feeling my way back into it. Thanks again.

White trash
4th May 2004, 17:09
You firstly want to biff all the old fork oil and fill it with new stuff. A pair of progressive springs wouldn't go amiss either but oils cheaper. I'll try to find the levels for you in my archives.

Sett the sag using the preload adjusters (the big nuts at the top) to around 25mm. To measure that, lift all the bikes weight off the front wheel, so that the forks are full extension. Wrap a cable tie around the fork tube against the seal. Then gently lower the bike and sit on it once again gently with someone balancing it for you. Feet off the ground.

Climb off and again lift ALL the bikes weight off the front. Measure the gap between the fork seal and the cable tie. Aim to get that distance as close to 20-25mm as possible but I suspect you'll be more likely 35 at full preload as the std springs are shit. Superior industries down here can make a pair of springs very inexpensively (1/4 of the price of progressives!) and you specify how much stiffer you'd like them.

The 4 position click adjuster is the rebound adjustment (I think) and controls the rate of return. It depends entirely on what type of oil you have in there as to how well or even IF it works.

Let me know how you get on and I hope this helps. Congrats on the purchase of an iconic 80's machine too :niceone:

Tas
4th May 2004, 21:19
Thanks WT,
Appreciate your time and knowledge, will look at changing the fork oil this week, and setting it as you describe.
Will let you know how it works out.
I agree with you about the 4 position adjuster as to it effectiveness!
I've had bikes before but nothing this "modern" and not in the past 20 years, its a big learning curve for me, but thats the enjoyment: get in there, learn, do what you can for yourself & appreciate what knowledge other people have to share... Cheers

k1w160
20th January 2006, 15:56
Gidday guys, great to see that others have latched onto what is really a great bike. I've just bought an '88 FZR750 that I'll be racing in the pre '89 class and it has a truly unique set of forks off something else, top of the forks have a solid "bung" held in by circlips. It looks really basic but who ever set this thing up knew what they were doing, has been preloaded with spacers and the only change I'm making is heavier oil to stop the back wheel lifting under brakes. Theres two FZR750's there now and it would be great to see the tide of GXRS steemed (FZR1000's welcome of course), and it really is a buzz, so how 'bout it guys - come out to a pracice day at Puke and have some fun and who knows, maybe you'll put a set of numbers on as well. I'll be running a standard engine and standard original pipe for a while and when the $$$ comes available I'll slip a breathed on 1000 into it and really have some fun. Come to think of it, if any one is interested in a trade of a very good condition unmarked standard pipe for a race 4 into one (perferably a properly designed one), drop me a line. CU on the road, or track.

riffer
20th January 2006, 20:22
Damn. I miss my fizzer.

what's yours - 2LM or 2NK?

I can let you know some things to give it more oomph if you have the 2LM model...

R1madness
21st January 2006, 07:04
Hi guys. I raced one for years. Use 10wt fork oil and fill them to leave a 125mm air gap with the springs removed and the forks fully compressed. Preload set to 2 rings (yours look about right) and dampning to possition 3 of 4. Run the forks flush
If anyone is keen to know how to make one do a genuine 112hp (up from 95 factory and still reliable)) give me a pm and i will send ya everything i know about running one of these motors. You can get more hp but it costs...... lots....
Actually i might even know where my old motor is sitting. Maybe i shouold go drag it out again hahaha. no that would be silly.......

By the way the forks are nothing like the later model fzr1000 ones.

Fantastic choice dude. These bikes are the pick of the 80s machines.

Drew
22nd January 2006, 08:35
If anyone is keen to know how to make one do a genuine 112hp (up from 95 factory and still reliable)) give me a pm and i will send ya everything i know about running one of these motors. You can get more hp but it costs...... lots....
.
Power is cheep and easy.TURBO the fucker!
Any way, back to the forks, I raised the rear of mine to reduce the fork rake. As long as your not draging the pipe on the ground when your cornering, I would leave the forks where they are in the triple clamps. I keep up with, and sometimes beat my buddy on his repsol CBR1000 on our rides, so I reakon I am getting close to figuring out the best set up.
Also, once the static sag is set, ignor the front and get the back right, the age of the forks means the rebound damper is probably gonna make negligable diff nomatter what they're set to. I have the sag at the rear set at twenty mill, and the damper turned to the maximum. Made more of a difference to my corner speed than anything I've done at the front.( Including the spell when I had no fork oil at all in the bike and two blown fork seals!) Hope this helps. It will handle better if you're climbing all over the tank too as the old girls are real rear end heavy.
Have fun, AND PEACE OUT>