nsr, fzr, tzr, gsxr, cbr, rgv, zxr

[Danboy]

Ok guys(and gals), I thought I'd throw this at Club 250. I'm looking at buying my first bike. I've ridden before a long time back, but not with a licence. :nono: So here I am doing it legally.
Anyway, my query....with all the models listed above, I've done plenty of research into them all. I've seen them all advertised on Trademe and Bike Trader etc. etc. and have a fair idea on what prices some sell for(depending on the year and exact model)....BUT, what I need is some actual feeback from people who have owned/ridden these bikes and some more specific info about how they ride and what they feel like.
I'm trying to sort out the best option for me, considering my size(100kg's and 6') and what's going top be most reliable, easy to get parts for and most of all, fun to ride. :) So please let the info pour in. I'll take it all on board(as long as it doesn't turn out to be a "mine's better than yours" competition) Only good solid info please. :)

Cheers,

D. :msn-wink:

[N4CR]

I'd choose a crashed CBR with cosmetic damage. Cheap and the same bike just new levers and whatnot, MAKE SURE FRAME AND FORKS ARE NOT BENT AND ENGINE IS NOT FUCKED ETC GET SOMEONE WHO KNOWS BIKES WELL TO CHECK IT. CBR is most reliable of the lot, one of the quickest too. Narrowly misses out in the looks/overall perf to ZXR 250 C model (91-93) - unrestricted HP, it has a single headlight that's what to look for when getting a C model).

NSR good two stroke reliable for a 2 stroke.
RGV has power valve/pin? issues afaik, but good if you fix it.
TZR is a bit of a shitter, mega faults and weetbix carbs from what I have been told by a few people.
GSXR some good models, GSXR ACROSS one of the best, some of the other models shitty and prone to blowing up (heard some mean horror stories).
FZR - 2LN shit 3LN model is better from what I see, okay bikes usually cheaper too.
CBR RR Most reliable and bulletproof good fun good bike, fuckin ripoff at 7.5k dealer as most of these older inline 4 250's are drying up from Japan.
ZXR250 C/A A is cheaper and 89 and earlier model, 173kg wet better low down but top end gets creamed by C model, C is fastest 250 IL4 money can buy (15% more torque than RR, 160kg wet, best suspension and adjustment options and the best looking one in my opinion... although fzr's look nice too! Just wipe the fork seals every now and then to avoid problems, get the camchain replaced at 30k or whenever it gets fucking noisy as a precaution and you will be sweet. Best suspension/handling and power of the lot.

2 strokes 250 racey bikes, great fun prob not best learner bikes as they have alot of power and a decent powerband to kick in mid corner ;) ... they are road legal race bikes pretty much. Cheaper but more pricey to run with premix oil and shit, tuning blah blah. FAstest of the 250's though.

4 Stroke 250 Inline 4's.. best for commuting, some will do 180+ real speed but you need alot of road. These are my pick.. but watch the plastic. EXPENSIVE to repair. Mabey pull fairings off whatever bike you get first 3 months incase you drop it.. probably will.

Have funa nd post any more questions should you wish to!

[vtec]

Well said N4CR.

I totally agree. 4 stroke is the way to go, I've owned an RGV250 for 2 years, and I currently own a CBR250RR for the last 2.

In terms of riding, I actually prefer the CBR, it's just as fun, while being easier to ride. It still goes bloody quick once you've got used to its power curve. Doesn't take long.

I had to spend a fair bit to keep the RGV running. The CBR however has taken an absolute thrashing, and I'm racing it in Formula 3 and Streetstock, and it's surprised a lot of people, and it's faultless.

One thing to watch out for with the ZXR's is that the Cam chain tensioner's can fail, which causes the chain to chew out the inside of your engine. It's not just the chain at fault. The CBR doesn't have these problems, cause it has cam gears, which in my opinion probably adds a bit more weight to the engine while making it more reliable. It's about 150kg but certainly doesn't feel like it, compared to 128kg of the RGV.

Also the CBR is quite comfortable for long hauls, the RGV was not.

Overall, the CBR seems to do everything quite well, whereas the 2 strokes only do the 'go fast' thing well.

[slimyxylofone]

I've been riding for almost 6 months now. I'm 5'11" at around 85-90kg.

I started on a GN250, which was, I believe, the best decision I could have made. Its a perfect learners bike and allows you to get the feel for cornering and generally riding on two wheels. I rode about 4000kms on it, including riding from Auckland to Dunedin.

At that point I started to get the itch for something faster. As I'm under 25 I still have another year at least till I get my full and can upgrade to a larger displacement. So I decided to go for a fourstroke, inline four (CBR RR or ZXR) as these are fast and relatively reliable. This, I hope will entertain me till I get fulll.

I recently managed to get a hold of a ZXR250A 1989 from a dealer for $4,300. 16,000Kms on the clock and in reasonable condition - Just slightly neglected (I've literally left at least one towl black on both sides from polishing only the exhaust). I love this bike. It's nippy, looks good and is not too bad on longer rides (400km with one-two stops is not too bad, only shoulders get sore)

I would recommend a ZXR from my personal experience. BUT I would not want to learn on one!!! Thats a very serious issue which you need to think about. These fast bikes are bloody fun, but whats the use when you kill yourself after a 2 months of riding? It's your decision what you buy though.

The ZXRs have been known to have cam chain/tensioner problems and fork problems with the upside down forks. This just means you should get the cam chain and tensioner checked when buying a bike. Changed every 50,000kms apparently. Foks seals - need to look for rusting and pitting as these may fuck the fork seals and result in an expensive repair. Otherwise very reliable bikes.

Good luck finding the best choice for yourself :)

[Drunken Monkey]

Well said N4CR...

Aye, that's "sticky" material, that is. Might help to not have the same question asked over and over. Who's the sub-forum mod?

[Danboy]

That's exactly the type of info I'm after. Real life stuff. :)
Keep it rolling in. If we could make it sticky for others to view, that would be great.
Cheers,

D. :msn-wink:

[1000fists]

Hey guys, I was just wondering what model the 1990 CBR's were? I dont really know much about them lol, but were they an R or RR?

[gamgee]

both (i think)

[hXc]

If you're 6 foot, then you may find the CBR a little cramped. For an inline, I'd go for a ZXR. FZR is okay but are known to be a bit problematic at times.
Stay away from the 2 strokes for road bikes. Waste of time really. And money.

But there is always V-twins. Okay, not as fast as an inline but just as fun. And in my opinion, sexier and sound nicer too.

Well that's my advice, but you don't have to listen to it.



P.S: Get a SPADA if you can. Honda VT250. Made in '88 and '89. Great bikes, quite big, but not heavy/hard to throw around. Comfortable on long rides and plenty of torque. With a top speed of 170, it's not as fast as the 4's but it sounds much nicer. I love it:love::love:

[gamgee]

vt250's are unreliable heaps of shit, don't buy one
check out this cbr, but be quick it'll probably sell before tonight:
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Motorbikes/Sports-tourer/auction-54907007.htm

[hXc]

vt250's are unreliable heaps of shit, don't buy one
You're thinking of VT250F. Completely different.

1. VT250 Spada http://www1.ocn.ne.jp/~bantrade/honda/vt250-spada1.jpg
2. VTF250 http://www.sashu.co.jp/cgi-local/usedlist/images/vt250f.14060.JPG

And then there's VTR250 and VT250 Magna.

EDIT: Anyway, you're only half way there. You have the right amount of cylinders, but the wrong shape. And it's a Kawasaki. I don't think I can ever forgive you now.

[nsrpaul]

itl be unrelaible , they make a crap leaners bike and cost as much as a v8 to run, but you should still just by an nsr

[MidnightMike]

itl be unrelaible , they make a crap leaners bike and cost as much as a v8 to run, but you should still just by an nsr

Ignore him, hes completely biased. :laugh:

[nsrpaul]

Ignore him, hes completely biased. :laugh:
why, what makes ya say that

[upon1]

ive owned a 1988 fzr and nw own a 1990 cbr250rr. the fzr totally screwed me over with some sort of problem every weekend. owned the br for a good 6 months now and i used it pretty much everyday.. the bike has one close to 90 thousand k's and it still rides like any other cbr in good condition... neva had 2 o anything to the bike apart frm an oil n filter change every 4000 k's. has a real sweet top end as well.. doesnt seem to strain itself as much as the fzr after 140. goes off the clock without any hesitation.

[lb99]

I owned a 1987 NSR 250 MC16, it was quite quick, but was very uncomfortable on long trips, and quite unforgiving at slow speeds, but it was also a very reliable bike for me, it always started, and ran ok, though it did use lots of gas but by 28000km it was flogged out, front and rear disks needed replacing, swing arm bushes, wheel bearings, shock, forks- all needed work, and to cap it off the chap I sold it to found the bridge between the ports on the front barrel had cracked, causing the piston and barrel to self destruct, it still ran but not very well, I definatley got the best 10000km out of that bike, it was never the same even after having big $$$ spent on it, the people I know with similar bikes, KR1, RGV ect all had similar problems at similar ks, whereas the 250/4s just kept on going and going (within reason).In hindsight I should have stuck to a commuter GN, VT, CB, until I had my full then brought a 600, much more fun and usually cheaper than a fast 250.

[N4CR]

Yeah just to explain about ZXR reliability a bit more... there are really two things, one is simple one is a bit of money to get done.

Most common things: fork seals and camchain.

Forkseals - just wipe them down when they get rained on and every weekend or whenever you can remember (at least every weekend) - they puncture when seals slide down over the metal surface and hit dried dust and sand and general shit buildup. (Hardens after application etc).

Basically just keep em clean and when you buy CHECK for rust on the forks it will feel rough, usually from stone chips, it can be sanded out with a very very fine sandpaper or else just re-chromed... $300 probably though.

Camchain - supposed to last 20k, but I find you can get about 40k+ on average, you know when it gets loose when you rbike starts making ticking noises and sounds like a diesel... very bad, eats rocker covers when it get's very close to breaking. Do it at 20k and don't worry about it. Same time get your valve shims done along with carb tune etc. Valve shims... noone gets them done but I'd reccomend it (ZXR250's aren't knowing for dropping valves but i'd rather havet he security and peace of mind knowing it is all going to run reliably).

Oil: Mt Eden MC uses silkoline which I find to be shit with zx2r's, run motul 5100 you won't get clutch slipping or gear popping, change at 5000km's of riding or there abouts, change filter at same time, no point in keeping dirty oil filter to put shit back into the oil.
Do plugs every 10k or else your bike starts burning badly and smelling like shit, great way to piss people off when you pass them though ;).
TUNE YOUR CARBS AFTER GETTING A AFTERMARKET PIPE. I cannot stress this enough. My carbs are (need tuning though now...) tuned for almost non existant backpressure pipe so when I stuck stock one on for a WOF I nearly got creamed pulling out with the stock pipe for some reason.. it was so friggen slow due to inccorrect tuning I guess?

Check rear shock when buying too, rust will kill the seal, these are not re-buildable shocks so you will need a 2nd hand one if it dies (rare but does happen.. wipe it every now and then as well).

Clean your bike, good way to check for faults. Pulling off all the fairngs and spraying CRC into the electrical joints/plugs is a good way to stop water in winter etc.

Do coolants every 15k or so, easy to do as well.

Can't think of anything else at the moment.

Oh yeah if you want a cheap fun bike check out a well looked after rg150... they can keep up with most 250's when tuned properly apart from the 2 smokes.

edit: another thing with zxrs, after periods of heavy breaking (quick stops in traffic etc) don't hold brakes on in one spot, let them go, you can warp discs easily on these as your brake pads create hotspots and hot metal stretches more than colder metal eh ;) - also happens on CBR's but not as much (they ride too slow to use brakes much anyway :P) and most other bikes with slightly thinner discs (250's usually).

[hXc]

edit: another thing with zxrs, after periods of heavy breaking (quick stops in traffic etc) don't hold brakes on in one spot, let them go, you can warp discs easily on these as your brake pads create hotspots and hot metal stretches more than colder metal eh ;) - also happens on CBR's but not as much (they ride too slow to use brakes much anyway :P) and most other bikes with slightly thinner discs (250's usually).
Happens to most bikes dip shit...

[ferretface]

Happens to most bikes dip shit...


Mieeeooww! Wheres ya handbag?

What he's saying is that some bikes are more susceptible to stuff than others (but i'm sure a mature 15 year old knows that already)

[JT.]

Happens to most bikes dip shit...

It can happen to any disc brake... bike, car or motorbike.

If you have some riding experience then a CBR, ZXR, FZR, GSXR is going to be a good choice but have a ride of a few and if you like one model more than another make sure you find one in good condition. This is more important than the model IMO, models are just preference. I would recommend getting something post '90 as they are starting to get on and later models went through some good changes. Do some research on the net about the different models of each when you decide. Don't rule out a bandit either, the newer model 96+ has the same engine as the gsxr250 and is naked so has good power and no fairings to damage if you do come off.

[hXc]

I would recommend getting something post '90 as they are starting to get on and later models went through some good changes.
Post '93 have a 40hp restriction. In my opinion, pre '93 would be better. You will get easily bored with less than 40hp on those sorts of bikes

[Sketchy_Racer]

Meh just go to your local Lawn mower shop, Steal a weedeater engine

Pinch ya old mans bicycle and wellah!!

You have a KRR150

[Rosie]

Meh just go to your local Lawn mower shop, Steal a weedeater engine

Pinch ya old mans bicycle and wellah!!

You have a KRR150

No! My KRR is a proper motorcycle :cry: :cry:
It has fairings just like a real sports bike.
It's not just a scooter with big wheels, it's, its :weep:

[texmo]

Post '93 have a 40hp restriction. In my opinion, pre '93 would be better. You will get easily bored with less than 40hp on those sorts of bikes
year means nothing you can have a made in 1989 thats registered in 1999 making it a 1999, anywho i had a mc22 1990 cbr250rr and it only have like 28hp at the wheel.

[Kwaka-Kid]

lots of good, bad, and interesting information here! and i guess what it comes down to is the buyers ability to filter/choose best according to his/her own interperetation of it all.

As for year not mattering? It Kinda does sorry Texmo, at least for the 400's it was post 1994 that Japan changed the laws on a 400cc 4cyl race reps from 59PS to 53PS, however it was more of an agreement on what they were advertised on having... not forgetting the fact that there was still a UK Market for them etc.

the only last thing that got my attention was a ZXR250 having 15% more torque then a CBR250RR? Errr... ? Thats quite a statement to make, id love to see some genuine proof of that? As they are all so much of a muchness i dont think there is that much in it, like the 400's.

Anyways, whatever it comes down to, will more then likly be price, and condition. of the 4 cyl 4 strokes they are all great bikes, with the yamahas being a tiny bit more fidley having Ex-up (2KR?). Oh and all rear shocks are like spring only on all those old things anyway aint they?!

[texmo]

it does but its stupid to go off years as in new zealand it is based by year of registration wouldnt it just be easier to go off model ?

[N4CR]

the only last thing that got my attention was a ZXR250 having 15% more torque then a CBR250RR? Errr... ? Thats quite a statement to make, id love to see some genuine proof of that?

On paper mate... (yeah I know.. paper). ZX2R is 25nm from memory and the cbr is 20. Roughly 15%. Alot of people who have ridden both commented that the C model ZXR has a bit more tug down low than the RR and that probably confirms this slight advantage. I don't know where a dyno is that does torque I can stick this on to proove it though.

[Sketchy_Racer]

No! My KRR is a proper motorcycle :cry: :cry:
It has fairings just like a real sports bike.
It's not just a scooter with big wheels, it's, its :weep:

They may sound like a scooter......... but its all about the speed


Heheheh and it can keep some guys on 1000cc bikes more than honest in the corners...... :rockon:

[Rosie]

They may sound like a scooter......... but its all about the speed

And I ride like a nana. There is no hope :weep:

[Jamezo]

I don't know where a dyno is that does torque I can stick this on to proove it though.

All of them?

IMHO: ZXR250C > CBR250RR > CBR250R > ZXR250A > FZR250 ........ > GSX-R250 (teh sux)

The single-R hurricane CBRs are not a bad bike at all, if you can find one that's been reasonably cared for.

And of course, there is no better bang for your buck in NZ than a good ol' RG150!

[sefer]

It has fairings just like a real sports bike.


And it even says so on the sticker :D

[Rosie]

And it even says so on the sticker :D

Not just any sportsbike, it's a Super Real Sportsbike!
And the 'RR' stands for 'Race Replica' right?

[Kwaka-Kid]

interesting, i still have serious trouble coming to terms with it being 25% less then the ZXR's. I have only ridden 1xZXR A, 4x C's, and 2 odd MC22s and an MC19... and cant feel it at all, yet it should be really noticable.

meh! anyways.. i still wouldnt beleive it on paper... heres an example.
http://www.v-four.freeserve.co.uk/vfr400.htm
http://bikez.com/bike/index.php?bike=8300
http://www.cs.wisc.edu/~john/vfr/specs/94-vfr400r.html

Look at that, they all clam way different power/torque for essentially the same VFR400... And no nothing changed over those years... one of them even says it has a top speed of 205kmph? haha.. and if they were talkin about the limiter it would be 180. Strange... all so official looking too.

[kiwifruit]

a few years back i owned a 1990 gsxr250, so thats all i can really comment on;
it was very easy to ride, was reliable (in that it was still running) for 2 years of thrashing
the motor lost compression after i had it, but only because it got cained....
but you kinda need to give it heaps to get anywhere
was horrible under 12rpm, after that it got up to steam
after a few months it was horrible under 13rpm
few months later it was horrible under 14, and so on
until it was on deaths doorstep and nothing happened until 16,000rpm!

It was easy to foul up, esp toward the end
any low rev riding would see it spluttering and even stalling
turning the starter with no thottle for about 15 sec would get it going again.

BUT, it was still running, its not like it just lay down and died.....
had alot of fun on it
rode around the country side 2 up (really haf to ring its poor little neck!)
covered about 30,000 km on it

If i could turn back time i would have listened to my old man and just got something cheap and waited it out til i could ride a bigger bike, legally.
But thats not what happened.

These days the 1990ish 4 cylinder 4 stroke bikes are around the price they were 10 years ago, which sucks!

My advise: get a sub $1500 "shitter", thrash it, kill it, move on.
Geeez, i sound like my old man :zzzz:

[vtec]

Sounds like you never did the carbs or valves or anything kiwifruit? I think its quite important to do most of the normal four stroke tune up stuff to keep these bikes going.

[N4CR]

Sounds like you never did the carbs or valves or anything kiwifruit? I think its quite important to do most of the normal four stroke tune up stuff to keep these bikes going.

Yeah, I had the pleasure of riding a 91 RR today with fhaaarked carbs, they had just been tuned and new plugs etc a few days before, amazing power 8-12k then it just peetered out lmao, I was like 'SHIT if midrange is like this then top end will be like riding a 400 or something'. Or not.

Tehehe, somehow the carbs went from great for 2 days to having all the availiable power in midrange after that time, I think something is majorly wrong. Seems like it' rich down low then lean up top, but engine temps are not high... weird.

[kiwifruit]

carbs etc used to get attention as required,
never had the engine apart to do anything serious.
The thing just got tired of the constant redline recieved thru the gears, day after day :D
Had a 92 cbr400rr a few bikes after and it was a totally different story,
alot harder to kill.

[vtec]

Yeah, I had the pleasure of riding a 91 RR today with fhaaarked carbs, they had just been tuned and new plugs etc a few days before, amazing power 8-12k then it just peetered out lmao, I was like 'SHIT if midrange is like this then top end will be like riding a 400 or something'. Or not.

Tehehe, somehow the carbs went from great for 2 days to having all the availiable power in midrange after that time, I think something is majorly wrong. Seems like it' rich down low then lean up top, but engine temps are not high... weird.

These bikes don't get that hot when running lean, there is plenty of cooling for such a small engine, I would think that it's not flowing enough petrol to or through the carbs. That would be the only reason for a good midrange and a crap top end that I could think of. Check for a kink in the fuel line, make sure the vacuum hose is attached, and lastly check that the fuel filter and tap is letting enough gas through.

This is my mildly educated guess of the situation, so don't take it as definitely the truth.

[juzzer]

Having owned, used and abused most of the above (GSXR, RGV, ZXR, NSR) and ridden all of the others you mentioned to sum it all up:

Four strokes for sensibility & two strokes for fun. So it depends on if you want to be a nana rider or not :scooter:

If you maintain a 2-stroke they go for ages.

BTW did I mention I have a NSR that needs a new home. :blip:

[Danboy]

BTW did I mention I have a NSR that needs a new home. :blip:

lol...cheers, but unless you wanna swap your bike and gear for my car...I'm a little stuck for cash to buy. :yes:

Besides, from all the info I've been readin so far...I reckon I might be heading in the direction of a CBR or ZXR. :msn-wink:


D.

[Jamezo]

lol...cheers, but unless you wanna swap your bike and gear for my car...I'm a little stuck for cash to buy. :yes:

Besides, from all the info I've been readin so far...I reckon I might be heading in the direction of a CBR or ZXR. :msn-wink:


D.
If you can't afford an NSR, you *definitely* will not be able to afford a CBR or ZXR.

The 2/ 250s go for considerably less than the 4/ ones. With the exception of super tricked out race-rep NSRs, which go for as much as or more than the 4 strokes.

Expect to pay ~$3K for a good NSR or RGV. ~$5K for a CBR RR or ZXR.

[Ixion]

If you can't afford an NSR, you *definitely* will not be able to afford a CBR or ZXR.

The 2/ 250s go for considerably less than the 4/ ones. With the exception of super tricked out race-rep NSRs, which go for as much as or more than the 4 strokes.

Expect to pay ~$3K for a good NSR or RGV. ~$5K for a CBR RR or ZXR.

There is a reason for that.

[Jamezo]

There is a reason for that.
Cause the owners get all scared-like of their awesome power, and have to flick 'em off to the next unsuspecting soul for whatever they can grab?

Cause of the huge demand for 'safe' four strokes?

Global warming?

[Ixion]

Mainly cos

Most have been crashed multiple times
They are much harder to ride than 4 strokes (meaning you have to work at the riding)
They require more maintainance
Most have been well butched by amatuer mechanics
Stupid powervalves'
Global warming

[texmo]

Ixion dont forget powerbands when they snap they can be quite tricky to replace.

[zx7rr]

get a rgv,ive had my 91 rgv since 1995 it has done aprox 145000km thtz rite! it has had 1 top end rebuild and 1 set of crank seals it has all the trick gear including a set of jap f2 race pipes and it still flys,only now has the original clutch fucked itself,ive crashd it 5 times,raced it at club level 4 1 year and thrashed the crap out of it,the bike is a beast and only now has she cum of the road 2 b restord and paintd in lucky strike colours.U hear all the bad things bout rgvz but look afta them thrash them and they will last

[Fluffy Cat]

2 strokes rule, sorry but its true.
Faster
Look better
Handle better
Brake better
Accelerate better.
Light weight
But yes they are old and yes they need some care. Only the RGV has very very silly power valves but, the NSR's are fine and work better.
The 250 4 stokes are a more sensible bike, sensible like a flat cap, pipe and volvo. Nice if you like that sort of thing but........
Saying that once you get to 400cc's 4 strokes are cool again. Take off the cap, chuck the pipe and set fire to the volvo then chuck it off a cliff. Finally bury it upside down with a stake through the sump. All at a crossroads.

[texmo]

They handel worse, the powerband and the high center of gravity make them handel worse.
brake better? they have no engine braking so they cant brake as well?

[Fluffy Cat]

Texmo, your words give you away.
You need a 2 stroke and quick....medic!.
They brake quicker because they weigh less, sort of a physics thing i belive.
RGV has a little sort of power band but not much and the NSR's power valves, god bless mr honda. Work so well as to leave you wondering whats a powerband?.
Have you looked at any moto gp bikes, they moved away from low c of g's a while back(think elf and Ron Haslam), now a higher c of g helps turning with flick in. Have you sat on an NSR i would'nt describe it as a tall bike. Kind of minature.
Get a 2 stroke before they are all dead and gone. Or get a volvo sorry meant to say 4 stroke 250, keep getting them mixed up, sorry.

[Sketchy_Racer]

Or get a volvo sorry meant to say 4 stroke 250, keep getting them mixed up, sorry.
And Crash it and write it off :Punk: :Pokey:

[vtec]

I don't know, but the 4 stroke 250's aren't that slow. I was racing at Taupo today in Formula 3 on my CBR250, and I came 7th out of 12 in F3, beating an RGV 250 in all 3 races... However it should be noted that the guy who won all 3 races was also on an RGV 250. However it should also be noted that he spends about $5k per season to keep it racing. He was lapping about 3 seconds per lap faster than me. But it's his home track, and he's spent heaps of time there, and it was my first ever race there.

[SN4PD]

edit: another thing with zxrs, after periods of heavy breaking (quick stops in traffic etc) don't hold brakes on in one spot, let them go, you can warp discs easily on these as your brake pads create hotspots and hot metal stretches more than colder metal eh ;) - also happens on CBR's but not as much (they ride too slow to use brakes much anyway :P) and most other bikes with slightly thinner discs (250's usually).

Learnt that one the hard way, geniune front disc rotors are $600 a piece from japan :gob: (And you have to buy 2, ouch).

I picked up some locally laser-cut ones from a guy in waihi beach for $300 a piece (& $225 for the back disc). Was an expensive learning exercise, (though the font discs were down to 4.1mm and needed replacing soon anyway).

Other than that in the six months I've owned mine I have only had to replace a cosmetic piece of tubing, rear tyre, chain & sprockets. The ZXR is especially good if you of "larger" build. :rockon:

[Fluffy Cat]

Vtec a good, very good effort.
Just think on a preped NSR 250 you could have made a few places, maybe top 3, you also need a 2 stroke or a 400cc 4 stroke.
Be a devil get a 2 stroke, that RGV you took was a sissy and needs to get back to the 2 stroke brotherhood HQ for some counselling.

[Ixion]

A two stroke with valves is like a chick with a dick. Very good thing. In the wrong place.

[vtec]

Haha, so an RGV with powervalves is like a female to male trans-sexual then? :scooter:

Thanks fluffycat, but I think I'll stick with four strokes. Can't stand the idea of having to rejet them for every race. And even though rebuilds are easy, I find the more times you take something apart and put it back together seems to age things a lot... Bolt head get slightly rounder, threads get slightly weaker. The bike just gets older every time you strip it and rebuild it.

[SN4PD]

:rockon: Go the ZXR :blah:

[Danboy]

If you can't afford an NSR, you *definitely* will not be able to afford a CBR or ZXR.

The 2/ 250s go for considerably less than the 4/ ones. With the exception of super tricked out race-rep NSRs, which go for as much as or more than the 4 strokes.

Expect to pay ~$3K for a good NSR or RGV. ~$5K for a CBR RR or ZXR.

Ok, firstly....if I sell my car...I can get one of said bikes above. :) That's the whole point.
Secondly, I didn't say I couldn't afford it, I just can't afford to have both the car AND a bike....so the car goes, the bikes enters.
And 3rd, I've been trawling Trademe, bikepoint, biketrader etc etc. for about the last 4 weeks and it would seem that I can get a ZXR or CBR, both from '89 up to about '93 models, for prices ranging in between $2300-$4500. They may not be in mint condition, but scarred fairings are nothing, and having something to work on suits me fine. I'm mechanically minded, and workin' on your bike I reckon is part of tha appeal and culture. (Within reason of course) I'm sure as shit not spending $5k plus on the same machine at a bike shop that I can get on a private sale for $2k less....even if I do have to put a new chain on myself, or do some other minor work.

But thanks for your input. :msn-wink:
Cheers,

D. :niceone:

[Danboy]

...it seems that this thread is gradually turning into a "mine's bigger than yours" thread. :brick:
So thanks to all the people who've given unbiased, technical, useful, thought provoking info to a newbie who needed help. :2thumbsup
I think I've made my mind up on what I'm after...just have to wait for the right combination to come along.
Catch ya's in another thread. :rockon:

D.

[Mr. Peanut]

Yeah, but...

NSRs have two cylinders to worry about, two carbs and are easy to rebuild.
4-strokes have 4 cylinders 4 carbs 16 valves timing chain/gears and are horrendous to rebuild.

I got on my NSR after a brief and painfull experience on a sj125 scooter. I thought it was easy enough to ride, even if I did shit myself (5 times the power will do that :blip:) occasionally.

And 2-strokes make you feel a little bit "special" IMHO :innocent:

[kiwifruit]

Saw you racing on sunday vtec
you were peddling that cbr very well, good show.

[vtec]

Thanks fruity. You may not know, but I crashed in practice :nono:

Here's a fresh race report I typed up... check it.
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php?goto=newpost&t=28702

[insane1]

what about a an250 burgman huge storage just a thought.

[vtec]

hmmm, Seen those burgmans round. Not my pick of the bunch, but I'm sure it's probably got great low to midrange. Also wondering what the gas mileage is like on those things? Still I don't think I could downgrade from the CBR250 to anything less powerful, cause I've done far too many k's on my baby, and any loss in power will be very obvious, and highly frustrating.

[Mr. Peanut]

Scooters are terribly unsatisfying after a motorbike, but better than nothing.
The constant exhaust note is what gets at me... And the gas mileage would suck with you riding :D

[N4CR]

hmmm, Seen those burgmans round. Not my pick of the bunch, but I'm sure it's probably got great low to midrange. Also wondering what the gas mileage is like on those things? Still I don't think I could downgrade from the CBR250 to anything less powerful, cause I've done far too many k's on my baby, and any loss in power will be very obvious, and highly frustrating.

Hey tec.. you had that thing for 4 years eh? No wonder why you can ride the arse off it... good on ya, staying true to a bike you love or just can't afford lol...

I'll end up keeping mine, most fun overall and best overall I have ridden.. for me anyway. It's just me... in a bike! heheh :doobey: :nya:

[vtec]

I've been riding 250's for 4 and a half years. First 2 were on an RGV, last 2 and a half on the CBR. I love it, but would love a 600 Fuel Injected a lot more.

I'll be riding the CBR's for another several years I'd say. Unless all my evil schemes fall in place.

[Tickler]

Interesting to see that you stayed with the 250, from what ive seen and read everybody sees it as a tradition that when they get their full they MUST upgrade above the 250 limit.
I mean dont get me wrong everybody would love the bigger bike, its just good to see someone enjoying the bike they have and not instantly upgrading just cause the option is there

[Danboy]

This thread STILL going?? I started it at the end of April. lol. Have fun. :bye:

D.

[texmo]

We are. We also come to a conclusion.

The best daily rider or commuter bike is a Cbr250rr.
The fastest is a rs250.

[N4CR]

Interesting to see that you stayed with the 250, from what ive seen and read everybody sees it as a tradition that when they get their full they MUST upgrade above the 250 limit.
I mean dont get me wrong everybody would love the bigger bike, its just good to see someone enjoying the bike they have and not instantly upgrading just cause the option is there

I enjoy my bike the most out of the big bikes I ridden.. I'll be keeping it unless I fall in love with something very pricey and italian. We shall see.... :blip:


We are. We also come to a conclusion.

The best daily rider or commuter bike is a Cbr250rr.
The fastest is a rs250.
Fastest STOCK being a rs250... most of those two strokes can be modded the snot outta them, then onwards who know's who is the quickest.

[Mr. Peanut]

We are. We also come to a conclusion.

The best daily rider or commuter bike is a Cbr250rr.
The fastest is a rs250.

Fug Off, the RS250 is a peaky piece of shit. :nya: And don't give me that no mods rubbish! :rockon:

[mini_flyer]

Does anyone else's yamaha have a problem with the starter/alternator assy??

[Tickler]

nope, mines all good

[texmo]

Its a yamaha. That says it all.

[CFH1]

Hi all, newbie here... I've just on the final stretch after doing a major rebuild of my v-twin motor (new bottom and top end). And I've found the reason for the seizure. As such, I'm after a 3XV two stroke oil valve assembly. Consists of the mounting bracket, two 2-way valves and the wiring loom. The valve assembly attaches to the right hand side of the air filter for the front carb. Two stroke oil from the Mukini auto lube pump feeds directly into it. I've got spare parts myself, but not this part (number 3XV-1312A-00). The local Yamaha dealer can't find the part number listed ??? Chris

[Jeaves]

If you have no luck on here try one of the Auckland dealers , they may of had a little bit more experiance with them .

[asb237]

Iv had my RGV for less than 12 months and have had to spend well over 2k on the engine alone. At 30 - 50,000k's the powervales break apart, drop into the cylinder and basically destroy the engine so i wouldn't buy one unless the engine has already been fixed or you intend to have it done.
Aside from reliability issues, they are probobly one of the most fun 250's with heaps of hp (around 60) and an awesome powerband, making them a bit hard to learn on.

[SMOKEU]

Iv had my RGV for less than 12 months and have had to spend well over 2k on the engine alone. At 30 - 50,000k's the powervales break apart, drop into the cylinder and basically destroy the engine so i wouldn't buy one unless the engine has already been fixed or you intend to have it done.
Aside from reliability issues, they are probobly one of the most fun 250's with heaps of hp (around 60) and an awesome powerband, making them a bit hard to learn on.

Mad thread dredge.

You'd be better off getting a litre bike instead.

[E Ashmore]

Iv had my RGV for less than 12 months and have had to spend well over 2k on the engine alone. At 30 - 50,000k's the powervales break apart, drop into the cylinder and basically destroy the engine so i wouldn't buy one unless the engine has already been fixed or you intend to have it done.
Aside from reliability issues, they are probobly one of the most fun 250's with heaps of hp (around 60) and an awesome powerband, making them a bit hard to learn on.

You should not own an RGV.

It isn't an RGV250R. It is a K or L model, if it's 1989. if you're not prepared to regularly take care of an RGV then you shouldn't complain if it goes bang, because you should have researched the risks and necessities involved in ownership.

2 stroke 250s are fine if you respect them. That is respect as in riding, and general ownership.

Rant over.

Edit: This is Mcwild posting as E Ashmore was still logged in.

[Harvd]

You should not own an RGV.

It isn't an RGV250R. It is a K or L model, if it's 1989. if you're not prepared to regularly take care of an RGV then you shouldn't complain if it goes bang, because you should have researched the risks and necessities involved in ownership.

2 stroke 250s are fine if you respect them. That is respect as in riding, and general ownership.

Rant over.

Edit: This is Mcwild posting as E Ashmore was still logged in.

wish someone had said this to you before u bought the rgv eh hahahaha

[McWild]

wish someone had said this to you before u bought the rgv eh hahahaha

Yeah dude. I speak from experience.

[imdying]

Iv had my RGV for less than 12 months and have had to spend well over 2k on the engine alone. At 30 - 50,000k's the powervales break apart, drop into the cylinder and basically destroy the engine so i wouldn't buy one unless the engine has already been fixed or you intend to have it done.Fair comment. Couple of points to note are:
- 95 onward RGVs have a 5mm pin for the PV instead of the 3mm ones, and break far more infrequently
- VJ23 RGVs don't suffer from this
- Billet powervalves eliminate the problem
- Regular clearning and inspection of the PVs will let you see the cracks, allowing you to rebuild (you can get kits cheaply) or replace them before they total the motor


You should not own an RGV.Oh really... and why is that?


If you're not prepared to regularly take care of an RGV then you shouldn't complain if it goes bang, because you should have researched the risks and necessities involved in ownership.Would you consider putting a ratty second hand barrel in, leaving the pistons, and doing it on the cheap being prepared to care of it?

[asb237]

I got the billet aluminium valves from tuning works and got a top end rebuild kit while i was there, cylinders were suprisingly in good order; as was the bottom end

[imdying]

Nice. Did you rebuild it yourself? So you caught it before the valves dropped in then yeah?

[asb237]

i noticed a rattle and loss of power in the power band so wen't down to the mechanic. I almost fainted when they told me the cost of jap parts. Im no mechanic so i paid them to fix it with the cheaper parts i sourced myself.

[asb237]

................................

[imdying]

Cheaper and better! How/who was the mechanic? Happy with the job? Would you use them again?

[asb237]

it was Keiran at just motorcycles. Im happy with the job, bikes purring now