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HenryDorsetCase
26th April 2006, 10:34
I want to move my hands up and back slightly (short arms) about 1 inch in each direction should do it. I might have to get a new front brake hose and if so thats fine, and there should be enough length in the wiring loom.

anyone got a recommendation (make and model number) for me?

I bought a set of Moose racing ATV Bend bars, but they are too wide. (they will be for sale too.... will put up a thread)

cheers

WRT
26th April 2006, 10:41
Real men dont admit they brought the wrong bars, they just get out the hacksaw . . .

skelstar
26th April 2006, 10:49
Hack away HDC. Just cut them short.

I have done the upgrade (or had it done). One thing you have to careful of is making sure that flat end of the bar is long enough to accomodate grips and brake mounts. I didnt make sure of this and consequently the brakes are mounted on the bend and them poke up a bit. Its not too bad but a pain. Will be changing my bars again soon as a result.

Make sure theres bar-ends that fit (ie not Pizazz bars) and youll have to drill holes for the mounting pins in the grips. Some knock the pins off, but I understand that this is a bad idea.

Luck...and let us know how you get on.

HenryDorsetCase
26th April 2006, 11:23
Real men dont admit they brought the wrong bars, they just get out the hacksaw . . .


I am quite happy to have a hack at them, but the bends are further apart so the wiring doesnt work.

so its better if I on sell the wrong bars and start again. I sat on a Ducati Monster which had bars on it which were perfect, but the bike was sold. :(

Kendog
26th April 2006, 15:34
I am also looking at replacing the bars, but I want to go a little wider, as I find the stock ones are too narrow for my natural riding position.

Renthal bars have been recommended on other forums so I am checking into these at the moment.

Here are the dimensions of their 7/8" road bars:

skelstar
26th April 2006, 15:49
Will you need to change the clamps on your top-yoke KD?
Also check out if you can remove the MX cross-brace too.

HenryDorsetCase
26th April 2006, 17:10
on the Moose ones the clamp just unscrewed.

Those generic high ones look like me. I will measure the width of the stockers tonight, see what sort of a deal I can get.

Kendog
26th April 2006, 17:24
Will you need to change the clamps on your top-yoke KD?
Also check out if you can remove the MX cross-brace too.

Pretty sure these fit the stock clamps.

And yep, would not want the brace on unless it was absolutely necessary.

rasty
26th April 2006, 19:44
HDC- if the Monster felt right the bars are available for $92.00 or check the Ventura stand - I bought a set that had just the right sweepback ?? and height etc for me and I think we have pretty much the same arms - just different bikes!!

trumpy
26th April 2006, 20:03
I have used junior motocross bars on my Speed Four, not exactly what I want but they work. The problem with moto bars is that they are generally too wide accross the crown which means that in order to accommodate grips, switchblocks, brakes, clutch etc they end up being very wide (close to 800mm) Mine have ended up the same width as a new Speed Triple but have more rise than I would like (close to 80mm) and I would like to have them a fraction narrower but cutting is not an option as everything only just fits as it is.
Might be interested in a swap if someone has a more suitable set.

HenryDorsetCase
27th April 2006, 09:44
Superior Motorcycles in Chch are getting me a set of the Renthal "generic high" road bars. they are about 40mm higher than stock, and 30mm wider each side. Good buggers too, they are happy to swap the bars that dont fit, and cash or credit the difference.

I think I will take the pins off the switchblocks. the only one that could be an issue is the throttle one, but if necessary a thin piece of rubber round the clamp should hold it. Its not like theres four separate cables dragging on the throttle (like the first CB750 say.)

they also have a KTM Super Duke race bike in there... Yeah baby!

should be able to get this sorted next week. will post a pic.

skelstar
27th April 2006, 09:52
Dont know if youve already checked but have a look at www.project919.com and www.hondahornet.co.uk forums. I think theres a thread or two called 'Renthal Bars' or something. Preparation and all that :).

pritch
27th April 2006, 15:10
I was thinking of changing the bars on my bike. I'd got as far as discussing it with the local dealer. T.A.G. and ProTaper (?) seem to offer suitable alternatives.

People who knock the little tits off can find that the controls then turn on the bar. It's probably better to drill holes of the appropriate size.

Let's know how you got on..

Zapf
27th April 2006, 16:33
I am also looking at replacing the bars, but I want to go a little wider, as I find the stock ones are too narrow for my natural riding position.

Renthal bars have been recommended on other forums so I am checking into these at the moment.

Here are the dimensions of their 7/8" road bars:

Any idea who stocks them in NZ? if not maybe we can order it from Aussy/US?

The Stranger
27th April 2006, 16:43
Um why?

I guess it is personal preference, but, I find the more bent I am the better for long rides.

I find there is more weight on my butt with being more upright and I tend to get lazy and more weight goes on my wrists as a result. Also when you really get a jolt if you are vertical your spine gets a jar in compression, but if you are bent it gets absorbed by simply folding a little more.

HenryDorsetCase
27th April 2006, 17:11
Um why?

I guess it is personal preference, but, I find the more bent I am the better for long rides.

I find there is more weight on my butt with being more upright and I tend to get lazy and more weight goes on my wrists as a result. Also when you really get a jolt if you are vertical your spine gets a jar in compression, but if you are bent it gets absorbed by simply folding a little more.

my arms are short (I am short all over) and my extraordinarily large genitalia is squashed against the back of the petrol tank, AND my elbows are locked. My torso is also tilted a little further forward as well. if the grips come back and up, i reckon my riding position will be closer to the "Standard" riding position that a taller/bigger rider would have on a stock bike.

at speed, I will be able to shift my butt back on the seat and get torso lean that way to counterbalance the windblast.

I'll send you a photo of my genitalia if you'd like*





*not really

The Stranger
27th April 2006, 17:16
my arms are short (I am short all over) and my extraordinarily large genitalia is squashed against the back of the petrol tank, AND my elbows are locked. My torso is also tilted a little further forward as well. if the grips come back and up, i reckon my riding position will be closer to the "Standard" riding position that a taller/bigger rider would have on a stock bike.

at speed, I will be able to shift my butt back on the seat and get torso lean that way to counterbalance the windblast.

I'll send you a photo of my genitalia if you'd like*

*not really

Ok some times you can give too much information you know.

Kendog
28th April 2006, 20:16
Any idea who stocks them in NZ? if not maybe we can order it from Aussy/US?

2 WHEEL WHOLESALE in Whakatana are listed as the NZ distributor.

I sent them an email and they said most bike shops will have at least a Renthal catalogue on hand.

I just need to get my A into G and go into one.

Kendog
28th April 2006, 20:25
I was thinking of changing the bars on my bike. I'd got as far as discussing it with the local dealer. T.A.G. and ProTaper (?) seem to offer suitable alternatives.

People who knock the little tits off can find that the controls then turn on the bar. It's probably better to drill holes of the appropriate size.

Let's know how you got on..

The fitting of new bars results in a lot of debate about the removal of the pins vs drilling holes. Most people seem to be against drilling holes in the bars, and the Renthal site states the following:
"Do not centre punch or in any way mark the handlebar. Physical marking of the handlebar can lead to stress raisers."

pritch
29th April 2006, 09:54
my arms are short (I am short all over) and my extraordinarily large genitalia is squashed against the back of the petrol tank,


You could always attack the back of the petrol tank with a hammer thus making a recess in which to place your (allegedly) oversized gonads. Don't damage the structural integrity of the tank, however, as this could cause an exceedingly uncomfortable burning sensation.

Or you could ride a Harley. Most Harley riders appear to be suffering from a severe dose of orchitis...

HenryDorsetCase
20th May 2006, 18:19
OK its done.

I hummed and harrrred about the whole drilling the bars vs grinding the pins and couldnt decide for days.

I read the threads about it on hondahornet owners forum as well and decided to start with the left side block because its wasnt mission critical controlwise. I filed off the plastic pin and shimmed it with a piece of bike inner tube as suggested and it all went together no problem.

the throttle side was more of a concern. I talked to some mates who were engineers and they said I "should" be OK if I drill the bars. so I followed the procedure which I got from 919.org which involves lying the bars on the bench and then transferring the mark across, centrepunch and drill. Except when I went to button it up the fucking hole is in the wrong place!! !!! !!! GAAAAAHHH !!! shit ! arse ! (these bars cost $160 by the way).

turns out that the stock bars have the throttle twistgrip overhanging the end of the bar by a bit and the stock bar weights have a shank on them that goes under the end. fuck knows why but nothing beats a partial assembly and an eyeball of where the bloody thing will line up.

so now I have to cut the pin off so its out with the dremel. Whipped the pin out and buttoned it up, used the same bike inner tube shim as the other side and bobs yer uncle. buttoned up nice and tight, housing doesnt rotate on the bars, no worries.

the brake line might be a little short, but I will see how it goes (the clamp is approx 15mm from the inner face of the throttle housing), and the throttle cables wouldnt want to be any shorter, but no issues with the wiring, and it certainly seems to have achieved my stated aim of moving the grips back a little and up a little.

ride test tomorrow if the weather holds.


here's some pretty crappy pix

HenryDorsetCase
20th May 2006, 18:23
Oh yeah, the bars are Renthal road bars, style is road "generic high"

http://www.renthal.com/applications.asp

then hit "road" if you want the dimensions.

grego
20th May 2006, 18:53
i was exactly in the same posy a few month back with my suzi gs 500. would have bought a brand new hornet 900 but the seating posi was the same as on the suzi.
You might find that to change the handlebars will not be the fix you expect.
there is much more to riding position than height and lean of the handlebars. both the 900 hornet and the 500 gs have a footpeg posi AND a forward sloping seat that forces you into this seating position. If you have the time and chance to visit a Kawasaki dealer go have a sit or even better a ride on a ER6n. the very first moment you will sit on it you will find a difference: No weight on the wrists.the handlebars are virtually identical to the ones on the hornet or the suzi but the seat does not force your "precious ones"
into the tank and make your upper body "fall" forwards"

Please don't get me wrong, i am not trying to sell you an ER6, I loved the little gs 500 to bits and the local dealer was offering me a real "buddy deal" on the new hornet but I ended up buying the kawasaki instead. No more pain in the wrist, arms back and balls.

best of luck to ye...........

HenryDorsetCase
20th May 2006, 20:19
my list of Hornet mods also includes a seat upgrade at some point.

the next stuff is the big money: Ohlins shock, fork springs and revalve, and if I can swing it, bafflectomy and PC3 + dyno tune.

I sold a SV650 to buy the Honda and dont regret it. all the 6N reviews I've read say its a fantastic bit of kit, but for me the 919cc of grunt just can't be beat.

:headbang:

I am keen to take a 6N for a whirl though... wonder if the local guy has a demo?

Kendog
20th May 2006, 22:12
We have a modified seat on the wifes hornet, makes for a very comfortable and different riding position, I want one now.

I will do a little write up soon of our mods with pics (I can't take photos while the bikes are dirty, but never seem to have time to clean them)

The gold bar looks good on with the black bike :niceone:

grego
20th May 2006, 23:39
my list of Hornet mods also includes a seat upgrade at some point.

the next stuff is the big money: Ohlins shock, fork springs and revalve, and if I can swing it, bafflectomy and PC3 + dyno tune.

I sold a SV650 to buy the Honda and dont regret it. all the 6N reviews I've read say its a fantastic bit of kit, but for me the 919cc of grunt just can't be beat.

:headbang:

I am keen to take a 6N for a whirl though... wonder if the local guy has a demo?

With my age, and advanced stage of "decrepitness" 72 hps of the ER6n is all I can take. It does 160km at 7000 revs and there is another 4000 revs to go to the beginning of the redline guess I am getting chicken in my old age.
best of luck with your "personalisation" of the hornet.

skelstar
23rd May 2006, 09:02
Looks good mate. So you ARE advocating the pin-removal method? Ill be replacing my first attempt at the AM bars shortly.

Have done the bafflectomy and am happy to report a 300% improvement in sound. Was bloody awesome on the track on Sunday.

HenryDorsetCase
23rd May 2006, 10:11
Looks good mate. So you ARE advocating the pin-removal method? Ill be replacing my first attempt at the AM bars shortly.



On balance yes. Renthals site say "dont drill our bars" and its a 5mm hole in a 22mm OD tube. (its double wall thickness where you drill though, and not on a bend, so it shouldnt be too stressed, was the thinking of the engineer types I talked to. I also smoothed out the hole as much as possible etc).

The toss up is what is more mission critical: the thought of a crack in the bars propagating from the hole and having the things snap, or the throttle body rotating on the bar. Given you can shim it and it gets tight, AND the throttle cables and maybe the brake master cylinder tend to hold it in place, and its easy to tell if its too loose, on balance I think filing the pin is the better option.

I just wish I had taken my own advice, still, thats what the interweb's for, right?

the gold is exactly the same colour as the brake calipers though.

;)

skelstar
23rd May 2006, 10:31
Yeah. Wondering about the colour of the next bar (Im such a girl). Black is cool, but maybe silver?

Took the time to clean my calipers before my trip the other day. Man they come up nice once the brake dust comes off.

WickedOne
24th May 2006, 13:09
Hey Guys, check out this site...

http://www.rizoma.com/english/en_honda_hornet.html

Some Hornet specific accessories and some universal mirrors etc that look awesome!!!

WickedOne
24th May 2006, 13:16
Oh...and...

Has anyone spotted one of these anywhere? It looks awesome!!!!

33030 33031

Kendog
24th May 2006, 13:26
Excuse my ignorance, but what is it?
I liked the tank guard/ball saver on the front though.
We got two sets of the grab-rail hole cover thingys from that site, and they are pretty cool, tidys up the rear end nicely without the grab rail there.
Still awaiting our new mirrors though.
Mrs KD

skelstar
24th May 2006, 13:29
MrsKD: really! I have seen the site before and the stuff is quite nice. Mirrors would be sweet but cant afford 2BH. Want to change my rear-set though...and 450 euro (?) is a lot.

WickedOne
24th May 2006, 13:29
It is simply a well sylized grab rail/ luggage rack. Just looks better than any other fitting I have seen for the same purpose. Looking forward to some pics of the caps and the mirrors when they arrive!!!

HenryDorsetCase
24th May 2006, 14:12
Those Yoshimura cans are badass, too!!

:niceone:

WickedOne
24th May 2006, 14:28
Those Yoshimura cans are badass, too!!

:niceone:

Yeah, they do look quite good. Some crazy looking adjustable handlebars as well...

Found at: http://www.motorcyclelane.com/reviews.html

33035 33036 33037 33038

Kendog
24th May 2006, 18:07
Looking forward to some pics of the caps and the mirrors when they arrive!!!

I am hoping the mirrors arrive this week. Will be cleaning and photographing the bikes in the weekend and will post with the various bits and pieces we have moded.

WickedOne
25th May 2006, 13:03
Useful reading for Hornet owners.

33070

And on another note, have any of you Hornet owners thought of changing your rear sprocked? I am considering going down a couple of teeth on the rear sprocket and just hoping someone has had some experience in doing so.

The Honda mechanic I use suggested it because he has done the above with 4 other Hornets in the last while. It would be good to bring down the revs at highway (and above) speeds and would save petrol at these speeds as well!!! (Not to mention adding about 10-20 kph) I am just worried about losing acceleration in the twistys. The bike has plenty of power and there are no problems accelerating from low down in the rev range, so I think it should be okay but I just want someone else's opinion as well.

skelstar
25th May 2006, 13:12
Pretty happy with the revs at the mo. Will have a read of the manual though. Cheers.

HenryDorsetCase
25th May 2006, 14:42
thanks for posting the setup guide, its excellent.

I would like a dog leg clutch lever because its a fair reach to the straight blade clutch lever. The adjustable ones are ruinously expensive.

HenryDorsetCase
25th May 2006, 14:43
also apparently one fix is to go to a 17T front sprocket.

WickedOne
25th May 2006, 14:46
also apparently one fix is to go to a 17T front sprocket.

Nice clutch lever here for $99.

http://www.kyleusa.com/catalog/honda_919_184477_products.htm

yeah, have thought of that option as well but I am hoping to find someone who has done the mod to a Hornet to get some feedback....

HenryDorsetCase
25th May 2006, 16:50
Nice clutch lever here for $99.

http://www.kyleusa.com/catalog/honda_919_184477_products.htm

yeah, have thought of that option as well but I am hoping to find someone who has done the mod to a Hornet to get some feedback....

I saw those but that is $99USD (!) it would be $200NZD landed nearly I reckon.

WickedOne
7th June 2006, 13:09
also apparently one fix is to go to a 17T front sprocket.

I am going to put a 41 tooth (2 teeth down) on the rear next week and see how that goes. My mechanic recons I won't feel any reduction in acceleration but will definately notice a difference at the top end (wooo hooo) . I'll keep you guys posted....:wait:

skelstar
7th June 2006, 13:13
I dont get it...this is to reduce revs at 100km/h?

WickedOne
7th June 2006, 13:40
I dont get it...this is to reduce revs at 100km/h?

As far as I have been informed it should lengthen the amount of time spent in each gear while accelerating, thus avoiding having to "chop" rapidly through the gears while accelerating. It should, in effect, drop the revs down (especially) at around 120-140kph and thus conserve fuel.

Do you think that I am making a mistake? What are your thoughts?:confused:

skelstar
7th June 2006, 13:43
I dont really know what Im talking about to be honest. Just like to know what my options are. I know what you mean about shifting real quick, and now Ill notice it for sure when Im riding home tonight :).

Gonna be good to hear about your thoughts on it once its done.

WickedOne
7th June 2006, 13:47
Sweet as, I am going to keep my standard sprocket as well - just in case I am not happy with the results - but I will keep you posted and I'll also put up some figures to compare as well once it has been put on next week.:blip:

Kendog
8th June 2006, 12:15
I will be posting results from my various mods soon.
Was going to do the 'baffelectomy', but as soon as I saw the exhaust options at cycleworks...........

WickedOne
8th June 2006, 12:19
I will be posting results from my various mods soon.
Was going to do the 'baffelectomy', but as soon as I saw the exhaust options at cycleworks...........

So does that mean that your new mirrors have arrived? Looking forward to seeing those!!! So, pipes you say, what pipes are you looking at getting (or what pipes have you got)?:blah:

pritch
8th June 2006, 15:54
I saw those but that is $99USD (!) it would be $200NZD landed nearly I reckon.

When I bought mine it was about $180 from memory. There is now what appears to be an Italian copy available: Pazzo.

Don't know anything about them except that they exist...

HenryDorsetCase
8th June 2006, 17:19
I got a Givi rack and top box mounting flange * off tardme for $140 last week. I am going to put that on then go looking for a top box/pillion backrest set up. I should have bought the box the guy had who sold me the rack but I hummed and harred too much and missed it.

still saving for the suspension upgrade.

Kendog
8th June 2006, 20:10
So does that mean that your new mirrors have arrived? Looking forward to seeing those!!! So, pipes you say, what pipes are you looking at getting (or what pipes have you got)?:blah:

New mirrors are on the bike, damn good as well.

Pipes are being installed this week ready for the weekend :yes: All will be revealed in a full photo spread soon.

skelstar
9th June 2006, 09:38
Ken - come out on the ride on sat morning (10am at Caltex) and show us ya new stuff. Find the thread about it (Vasaline Warrior started it).

Kendog
9th June 2006, 10:39
Yeah probably see you at the top or on the road. The red wheeled baby is getting its new exhaust on, picking it up at about 11ish, so will go for a ride up the hill after that most likely. You may actually hear us coming now, especially with the two of them 'roaring' :laugh: along.
Mrs KD.

WickedOne
19th June 2006, 11:49
Well Cyclespot put on a 39 tooth rear sprocket when I asked the mechanic for a 41 tooth. I am rather pissed off because the sprocket cost me $70 and labour was additional. I have called them and told them I am not happy I am just waiting for him to speak to the manager and then to call me back.

WickedOne
21st June 2006, 12:44
Well Cyclespot put on a 39 tooth rear sprocket when I asked the mechanic for a 41 tooth. I am rather pissed off because the sprocket cost me $70 and labour was additional. I have called them and told them I am not happy I am just waiting for him to speak to the manager and then to call me back.

So Cyclespot have agreed to correct their mistake at no cost. Faith restored!!!! Will post an update in a few days once they have swapped it over.....

HenryDorsetCase
21st June 2006, 13:15
interesting... I am exploring the 17T front option (well, Ive got as far as reading some stuff on teh interweb and half heartedly looking for prices....)

WickedOne
21st June 2006, 13:20
interesting... I am exploring the 17T front option (well, Ive got as far as reading some stuff on teh interweb and half heartedly looking for prices....)

Beware, one up on the front is worth 3 down on the back (as far as I am aware). They (mistakenly) put a the 39 tooth rear (from 43) on my Hornet. I feel that I have lost a considerable amount of acceleration which I was really disappointed with. Depends on your riding style as well I guess, if you are into long rides and touring etc it would probably be sweet but I want my acceleration for the twisties!!!!

HenryDorsetCase
21st June 2006, 13:21
hmmmm..... good point. *puts thinking cap on* (hey this thing dont fit proper)

WickedOne
21st June 2006, 13:26
hmmmm..... good point. *puts thinking cap on* (hey this thing dont fit proper)

Have you been reading the article on www.919.org?

Read it as well and the guy went to 17 from 16 but changed the rear from the 43 to a 44 (So three down on the rear all together)...

WickedOne
28th June 2006, 14:33
So yesterday Cyclespot corrected their mistake and put the 41 tooth rear sprocket on as requested. I am so happy with this change!!!!! I have my acceleration back and some good differences. The gears are "longer" now so I don't have to chop through the gears as fast as I used to. It also has the tendancy to lift the front end a lot easier now.... not that I was trying too hard to lift it :innocent:

I have yet to go for a long ride but will update this thread once I have done so.

WickedOne
5th July 2006, 14:40
So yesterday Cyclespot corrected their mistake and put the 41 tooth rear sprocket on as requested. I am so happy with this change!!!!! I have my acceleration back and some good differences. The gears are "longer" now so I don't have to chop through the gears as fast as I used to. It also has the tendancy to lift the front end a lot easier now.... not that I was trying too hard to lift it :innocent:

I have yet to go for a long ride but will update this thread once I have done so.

UPDATE:

See below.....

skelstar
5th July 2006, 14:45
Cheers for the update. Dont have too many issues with current config so will save my money (unlikely).

nick
17th March 2007, 06:17
I want to move my hands up and back slightly (short arms) about 1 inch in each direction should do it. I might have to get a new front brake hose and if so thats fine, and there should be enough length in the wiring loom.

anyone got a recommendation (make and model number) for me?

I bought a set of Moose racing ATV Bend bars, but they are too wide. (they will be for sale too.... will put up a thread)

cheers
Hi I have just bought a cb900 and its got Rethnal bars on it which are about 50mm a side longer and I find them very good as it helps with the handling of the bike, if you want to bring the bars further back towards the tank then you will need to get bars with a slightly hire rise in them as mine just miss the tank
Cheers Nick

granstar
19th November 2016, 11:22
1/ same issue- big balls, short arms, I looked at the specs for Renthal high bars, then looked through my parts pile and found a pair of Yamahaha XJ 750 black bars similar albeit steel that work a treat.

Renthal width 716 V Yam 700
Height 120 V 120
Rise 96 v 100
Clamp area 105 V 150
Sweep 100 V 100
control length 200 V 200

I have these mounted on risers, big difference taking the pressure off my arms and wrists


2/ gearing change, I fitted a 17T and the bike just cruises with no noticable loss of get up and go, just lowers the revs a bit, makes it a nicer open road bike.

Next is looking at a Hagon monoshock lowered, have sliced some from the seat but another 20mm or so lower is going to be better.

pritch
19th November 2016, 11:57
Serious dredge. :innocent:

I looked at fitting Renthals on my Hornet but they wouldn't have solved the sore shoulder problem, that turned out to be arthritis.

Enjoy your Hornet.

nzspokes
19th November 2016, 12:09
1/ same issue- big balls, short arms, I looked at the specs for Renthal high bars, then looked through my parts pile and found a pair of Yamahaha XJ 750 black bars similar albeit steel that work a treat.

Renthal width 716 V Yam 700
Height 120 V 120
Rise 96 v 100
Clamp area 105 V 150
Sweep 100 V 100
control length 200 V 200

I have these mounted on risers, big difference taking the pressure off my arms and wrists


2/ gearing change, I fitted a 17T and the bike just cruises with no noticable loss of get up and go, just lowers the revs a bit, makes it a nicer open road bike.

Next is looking at a Hagon monoshock lowered, have sliced some from the seat but another 20mm or so lower is going to be better.

I just happen to have a Hornet 600 Nitron kicking about, which I think just needs the lower mount changed to fit a 900.

granstar
19th November 2016, 17:22
Serious dredge. :innocent:

I looked at fitting Renthals on my Hornet but they wouldn't have solved the sore shoulder problem, that turned out to be arthritis.

Enjoy your Hornet.

Not for everybody but i use Bee Venom from Ideal health for arth relief and it seems to work for me so far, rust never sleeps.

Yeah done 15,000 k's ridden daily in the short time iv'e owned the bike and it's only ever missed a beat once due to a bad tank of gas. Great all rounder. Only cons are the seat height, working on that, and the zorst stinkum which is solved easily by just riding off :psst:

HenryDorsetCase
19th November 2016, 21:24
Really? ten years ago on here talking shit, and I am still here? I need a life. Is there a forum for that?

pritch
19th November 2016, 22:38
Really? ten years ago on here talking shit, and I am still here?

Really, and I too feel that pain.


And to Granstar thanks for the bee venom tip. I might read that up.

The Doc gave me anti-inflammatories then took them off me because he said that type could cause strokes. Then he gave me another similar pill but advised me not to take them because "They all eat holes in your stomach". Generally I only use the meds if I'm going to be riding an hour and a half or more but the last year or two they don't actually seem to do much.