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Shazuki
4th May 2004, 19:23
Hi all, I have my first bike :D ..................haven't even taken it for a ride :disapint: it is getting a desperately needed makeover. Thought you guys might like some mild correspondence about how things are going.........will try to put some pics in here too.
So far.........pulled engine out, was told that one cylinder was shot, but compression tested them and all four were identical ( all tested to 90PSI - as accurate as we tested?):2thumbsup Problem we did find was the magnetic ring around the armetur to be broken :angry: Don't know how bad an impact that would have had on the bike running???? Will be looking to replace this part while the engine is out. Next....... one of the carberators has a tear in the rubber boot :disapint: looks like a replace job too. Took rocker cover off and all looks sweet in there :yes: Madandy is in charge of the engine department.....I'm just the apprentice that gets to clean a lot! :disapint: Although any thoughts or "where to go for bits" would be appreciated.
Next......Have degreased and cleaned frame basically stripped down without removing all of the wiring, for fear of not knowing where to put things back together :shit: Sanded and primed frame, ready for a lick of top coat to make it all pretty. Next.......Brakes to replace and warped rotars I think, not sure if they can be fixed or replace? Forks will need a service once she is back together. When all back topgether I plan to get all farings sprayed up and get some styly stickers made so she looks like a mini 1000..........maybe I should wait till I give her a few rides incase, god forbid I drop her :shit: Can't wait for the weekend to crack on with this..................keep you posted :2thumbsup If no pics I obviously couldn't do it??????

pete376403
4th May 2004, 19:35
If the torn rubber boot was between the engine and the carb then that would explain the "one cylinder shot" theory. :yes:

DEATH_INC.
4th May 2004, 19:40
G.P. Trading are down your way and are worth a shot for parts :niceone: .Got a mate up here who is a gun :not: with painting and making graphics(not real cheap though) if you're interested.....

Shazuki
4th May 2004, 21:46
Cheers Pete & Death, will pass on the info about the carb to Andy. Been to GP trading to give him an idea of what I might need, depends on timing and money. The paint dude sounds good, maybe I'll keep that in mind and see how many pingers I have left at the end. P.S say hi to Draco Death.:wavey:

FROSTY
4th May 2004, 22:17
shazuki -where is the rubber boot--Is it the diaphram inside the carb?
A little trick to try
Get a bicycle tyre repair kit and apply a thin bead of glue into the split. Let the glue tack off a little and smooth it out. When it dries it retains the flexibility of the rest of the diaphram.
-It has about a 75% success rate but at $10 a go it might save ya a few bucks

Shazuki
4th May 2004, 22:24
:hug: thanks xj...........will add to the list to check out and try! cheers ..........love the help and knowledge shared on this site! :not:

Shazuki
5th May 2004, 06:22
Andy says it IS the diafragm inside the carb, so will give your little vulcaniser test a shot.

White trash
5th May 2004, 08:41
Andy says it IS the diafragm inside the carb, so will give your little vulcaniser test a shot.

I priced a diaphragm for my girlfriends GSXR250 a couple of years back.

$425 ex Japan :kick:

Hope the ol' tyre repair kit thing works for you.

Shazuki
5th May 2004, 11:33
I priced a diaphragm for my girlfriends GSXR250 a couple of years back.

$425 ex Japan :kick:

Hope the ol' tyre repair kit thing works for you.

YIKES! :argh: I hope xj's plan works too..............don't want to put off getting it on the road for too long.

erik
5th May 2004, 17:26
I priced a diaphragm for my girlfriends GSXR250 a couple of years back.

$425 ex Japan :kick:

Hope the ol' tyre repair kit thing works for you.

:eek5: ... and I thought $25 for a single O-ring for inside one of my carbs was expensive. Jeeze, if I somehow damaged all 4 diaphragms on my bike, it would almost be cheaper to by myself a whole new (second hand) bike, if the diaphragms are similarly priced.

Shazuki, good luck. I'm looking forward to those photos :).

FROSTY
7th May 2004, 12:07
YA AINT KIDDING-xj750 diaphrams get lil piunholes all the time because of the bikes age.
If my trick doesnt work Id try buying a set of carbs adn swap the whole diaphram/jet set over from one set to the other

merv
7th May 2004, 12:51
I've never done it on a carb diaphragm but good old black silicone RTV works wonders on CV joint boots on cars if you have a small tear so I'm guessing it would work well on the carb rubber provided you don't slap it on too thick it is very flexible and stands up to all sorts of punishment. Available at any hardware store even in the small packs at the Selleys bar and the like and is probably better than tube repair glue.

Just a question of those in the know (WT with your shop experience) - 90psi sounds bloody feeble to me for a high compression engine - I would have thought more like 140 would be OK? I know they were all even but to me they don't sound good all the same and I presume that was at crank over engine speed with the starter motor.

Shazuki
7th May 2004, 16:17
Think I have managed to enter these pics ok :banana: The picture quality may be poor though due to inexpensive camera.

Merv, thanks for your input............I hope we don't have a big problem with the PSI reading so low :doh: Hope that we got a gauge that is reading low, we had the motor on the bench and kicked it over from a battery????? Will have to cross my fingers when the engine goes back in a we finally get to hear her running :yes:

FROSTY
7th May 2004, 16:28
Think I have managed to enter these pics ok :banana: The picture quality may be poor though due to inexpensive camera.

Merv, thanks for your input............I hope we don't have a big problem with the PSI reading so low :doh: Hope that we got a gauge that is reading low, we had the motor on the bench and kicked it over from a battery????? Will have to cross my fingers when the engine goes back in a we finally get to hear her running :yes:
hold fire a mo--- Whilst ya got the motor out check and reset all the valves to their correct settings. There is a tollerence range for em> Make sure you don't have over tight valves cos this causes a low compression reading ( I ALWAYS set my valves to the loosest setting available. She might rattle a bit on startup but you wont loose performance when she warms up.)
Also---(Now please someone corect this old guys memory iof I'm wrong )
Don't swet the low compression just cranking her over. sometimes those readings are bunk.
Once youve done all that if ya still got low readings I'd suggest hauling the head off and give her a valve grind. Low compression on one of those lil 250's is more likely by far to be in the head not deeper down

madandy
8th May 2004, 11:59
I reckon the "low compression" is no worry. My guage is older than me.I bought It form a Austrian Diesel mechanic(my traing is in Diesel) who must have had it for a long time 'cause he'd been retired for a million years or more :lol:
So probably a guage callibration issue. I'm happy to let her be for now 'cause getting four identical readings on this engine makes me pretty chuffed.And yes I tested eack cylinder three times...thay all came back at 90psi.All four spark plags were in identical condition too, Despite one carb diafragm being shot.

She's a bucket tappet & shim job too, if the valve clearances were dodgy but are all even and I dont want to pull her down if I dont have to.Xjxjxj I concur with your lose settings preference.If I find the factory tolerances I will hope they match current gaps. <_<

Andy

FROSTY
8th May 2004, 13:08
andy---call me later --Ill get ya the factory settings
021544251
Tony

DEATH_INC.
8th May 2004, 19:51
I wouldn't worry bout the comp if they were all the same.....if you had a prob usually they would vary quite a bit. a couple of questions.....Did you hold the throttle wide open? and did you squirt some oil down the plug holes to see what it did?

madandy
9th May 2004, 21:29
Compression test was conducted in the following sequence...

remove exhaust system
remove engine and place on work bench.
remove carburettors for overhaul
remove plugs for inspection-all in good condition
spray WD-40 at inlet ports and down plug holes
turn engine over from battery
add 10ml engine oil down each plug hole
turn engine over
add a further 10ml engine oil down each plug hole
compession test each cylinder three times.

all readings were 90psi.

Antallica
9th May 2004, 21:35
Man that's an expensive diaphram... mine was only $50.

FROSTY
10th May 2004, 19:21
I hope the message got through about valve settings--
With the engine cranking slowly 90psi is not too bad.
With a car battery hooked up and cranking at a decent speed the compressions will come up

DEATH_INC.
10th May 2004, 19:32
I hope the message got through about valve settings--
With the engine cranking slowly 90psi is not too bad.
With a car battery hooked up and cranking at a decent speed the compressions will come up
Yep,just checking whether they'd done the oil thing and the throttle thing....makes a big diff as you know.....sounds all good and I second the valve clearance thing....

madandy
11th May 2004, 06:20
Thanks guys!

Xj I got those numbers!thank you very much.
Death inc. cheers for checking up on me.
I feel like I might be a little yea yea I know what I'm doing on the site but it sure is nice to have you guys double checking for me...I'd hate to miss something and find out later when Sharon rides the little beast.
I feel a little like I'm packing someone elses parachute for them...This damn thing is so small to work on.

Cajun
14th May 2004, 10:06
Shazuki

Was that you who waved out at me last night as i was going down middle of the road beside were the old toll booths use to be??

scroter
14th May 2004, 12:17
dont worry about compression too much those 4 cylinder 250s are low anyway thats why they rev to 20000. also try smythe and yeates in cambridge to get your discs straightened. It probably wont work but at about 60 dollars its worth it just in case it does work. FGB do new discs at about 600-800 a set they just need the old carriers