Rust on chain? fxr150

[bobsmith]

Hi all.

I was cleaning up my bike and saw some surface rust on a couple of links on the drive chain.... :no:

Now I'm just wondering if I'm paranoid or I should be changing the chain... It looks like it's just surface rust but I definately don't want the backwheel seizing at an untimely moment.

If I do have to change the chain, I noticed that the manual says that its a RK428HO chain on it, now I was hoping to change it to a chain that has a masterlink so I can work on it easily, which chain should I replace it with? does it mean that the chain size I'm looking for is 428? anything else I should look for? (oh and where can I get a chain link tool?)

Thanks

[emaN]

did you last ride in the rain a few days ago?
surface rust you should be able to clean off. brake disc's can also get that rusty look when left sitting after some wet weather riding,but comes off sweet.

try 'pulling' the chain away from the rear sprocket; from the 'back end' of the bike, if you know what i mean. if the chain lifts off too much, it's stretched.

re master links; try to get one with the clips. i've used 'em since always, and at up to silly mph speeds - no probs.

change yer chain, change yer sprockets. look at changing sprocket size if ya want more top end speed outta yours.

do a google for yours...

[Flyingpony]

Is the rust on the joints top/bottom and not the side plates?
If it is, then your o-rings are gone and your chain will be heading that way shortly.

The chain you have now fitted is brand RK made in Japan, size 428 heavy duty o-ring. They retail around $90-140. If it has no master link, it's quite likely still the original one.
Suzuki front sprocket $40, rear $80 from what I recall getting quoted last year. Add an hour and a bit labour. Replacement chain will probably have a master link.

Stock sprocket sizes stock are: 14 tooth front and 49 tooth rear. I'm running slightly higher gearing (47 rear) but it does have a negative impact on top end speed but big improvement for standing starts. No noticeable impact on fuel economy.

Shop around. There are some other brands like KMC made in Taiwan which make the same sized chain for much less money.

Some of my woes: here (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php?t=12800) and here (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php?t=12137).

I've also fitted a Loobman (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php?t=13426) and so far the chain is in a much better condition than without it. Maintenance has a big impact on chain life.

[ManDownUnder]

no worries - just oil the chain and use the brakes. That rust'll probably come off easy enough

Get concerned if the chain starts making a "dry" noise while coasting, squeaking is real bad, and tight spots are bad too - but curable.

Keep the chain lubed over winter, get the good spray on chain grease and spray it in the gaps between the roller and the end plates.

If the disks are rusty at all just put the brakes on for a couple of seconds while you're accelerating up the road first thing in the morning. Clean the rust off before you need to use the brakes. You'll feel an initial period where there is very little braking then they'll start to work as they should.

You're good to go after that

MDU

[phoenixgtr]

What if the rusts only on the side plates? With all the rain lately my chains showing some rust but I've checked and its only on the side plates. It should clean off no worrys shouldn't it. It seriously came up in a week

[bobsmith]

Thanks a lot for the info!!!!

Exactly what I was looking for!

Luckly the rust (that I've noticed) is on the side plates only, and it's the original chain (no master link), if I get a chain with master link with a clip, does that mean that I don't need a chain link tool?

Just tried google for my bike, haven't found much info at all that's not on my manual already..... :(

[ManDownUnder]

What if the rusts only on the side plates? With all the rain lately my chains showing some rust but I've checked and its only on the side plates. It should clean off no worrys shouldn't it. It seriously came up in a week

See my previous post - keep it oiled. Rust on the side plates tells me there's not enough oil on that chain in general.

[phoenixgtr]

Oh cool. Sorry we were typing at the same time. I think the chain was neglected by the previous owner. I've been oiling it quite regularly, but perhaps it was just beyond it.

[Flyingpony]

Thanks a lot for the info!!!!

Exactly what I was looking for!

Luckly the rust (that I've noticed) is on the side plates only, and it's the original chain (no master link), if I get a chain with master link with a clip, does that mean that I don't need a chain link tool?

Just tried google for my bike, haven't found much info at all that's not on my manual already..... :(
Read my higher up post again, I've edited it.

Don't think you'll need a chain tool to put as master link chain on. To take one off you will or hack saw it.

There's not a great deal of information out there on our bike. And while shopping around for generic parts, you'll find that only Suzuki has the most details and the rest collect it as you and I visit them. Much of KB's information is posted by me after I've collected little bits from Suzuki to answer servicing & repair questions.

[bobsmith]

Cool those links are great! thanks.

It's funny, I came across Lobman oiler as I was browising around this morning. I'm thinking about ordering one.. Did you end up fitting OEM parts or aftermarket parts? how much did they cost if you don't mind me asking? and from where?

thanks

[emaN]

if I get a chain with master link with a clip, does that mean that I don't need a chain link tool?

Just tried google for my bike, haven't found much info at all that's not on my manual already..... :(

it sure does! makes the job alot easier when putting a new one on and then taking it off when it's old n' crusty.
all's you need is a nice big flathead screwdriver and a gentle tap with hammer to lock it in place.

shame 'bout google not being helpful. looks like flyingpony's got it sussed tho'.
still,those sprocket prices seem steep - but if that's what they cost...

you could look at changing size.
mine had a weird, (read: expensive) size on. so i've put a more common size on (read: cheaper) which also gives me more selection.

oh, clean & lube yer chain twice as often in the wet too.

[bobsmith]

Eman, so which size did you change it to? (if you can remember)

[Two Smoker]

Eman, so which size did you change it to? (if you can remember)

Most common size is 520, but that means you have to change the sprockets aswell... I would get a new chain... Surface rust is from not lubing your chain enough...

[emaN]

I doubt my sizes would apply to your FXR (i always think Harley when i see FXR.....FXR150 doesn't sound right! ;) )

Anyway, i went from a 532 to a 530. Seeing as you'd be buying a whole set (wouldn't you?!) you'd be changing everyfink...

[R6_kid]

I think the FXR might be even smaller than a 520... if thats possible. Take it in to a shop and find out - doesnt mean you have to buy anything but you know what you need and HOW MANY LINKS you need.

If you wanna clean your chain/wheels i've found a car cleaning product called 'Formula 1 wheel cleaner' its a spray on hose of type of deal. If you spray it on your chain, leave it for a minute or so, then scrub it off you chain will come out looking new. Worked wonders on the R6 and i was quite WTF when i saw how good it worked. Dont forget to lube and tension it afterwards. I use castrol chain oil, but remember that you need to 'warm the chain' by going for a short ride for most products to work correctly.

[Korea]

Stock sprocket sizes stock are: 14 tooth front and 49 tooth rear. I'm running slightly higher gearing (47 rear) but it does have a negative impact on top end speed but big improvement for standing starts. No noticeable impact on fuel economy.

Some good advice there Mr. Pony, but I thought that if you run a smaller sprocket on the rear (47 Vs. 49) you would get more top speed and slower starts??? So a larger rear would give you less top speed and quicker starts, right? Which is why stunt guys have those huge rear sprockets...
When pondering this, I just think about the gears on a mountain bike...

[Flyingpony]

Some good advice there Mr. Pony, but I thought that if you run a smaller sprocket on the rear (47 Vs. 49) you would get more top speed and slower starts??? So a larger rear would give you less top speed and quicker starts, right? Which is why stunt guys have those huge rear sprockets...
When pondering this, I just think about the gears on a mountain bike...

The smaller rear sprockets makes the gearing slightly higher, impact of 2-4km/hr. Higher gearing means the engine has to work more for the same speed. Unfortunately the FXR doesn't have much strength in reserve, so this slight change away from factory can have a negative impact.

Before the sprocket gearing change, getting over 100 was piss easy, now it needs more work and slows down more rapidly when suddenly hitting head wind. For motorway speeds I feel this gearing is a disadvantage, but around town it rocks, I'm mostly riding around town so it's excellent for me. Off the mark is quicker because it can stay in a given gear for slightly longer and go slightly faster.

Another factor to keep in mind, Suzuki fixed a fault early on and this has made it run leaner so probably isn't producing all of its full potential power.

[Flyingpony]

Cool those links are great! thanks.

It's funny, I came across Loobman oiler as I was browsing around this morning. I'm thinking about ordering one.. Did you end up fitting OEM parts or aftermarket parts? how much did they cost if you don't mind me asking? and from where?

thanks
Your welcome. I'm very happy with the Loobman and will be posting up a 1 year anniversary next month.

Ended up fitting aftermarket parts.
Front: $12
Front sprocket spacer: $3
Rear: $42
KMC brand o-ring 428 chain: $63.
Plus labour

Purchased parts and got fitted at Budget Motorcycles in Chch. Some parts had to be sent down from Auckland so you shouldn't have any troubles.

It's a good idea to have your bike with you when getting quotes done, they'll want to measure the sprockets if part numbers are unknown. I've kept the original worn out sprockets to save me this hassle next time.

Chain has got 130 links, or was it 128? Don't really remember right now, it's in the manual. New chain definitely didn't need to be extended or shortened.

Only had one aftermarket choice for rear sprocket after being unable to find brand/company named ACC Sprockets.

Finding the front sprocket & chain were easy, but finding the correct sized rear sprocket was hard - it has to fit over the rear wheel axle hub thingy. Fortunately the nut hole arrangement fitted perfectly.

You could go one chain size up, 520, there are more options, but a 520 chain has got more mass (weight) in it and this might rob power from the drive train. It might also not fit in relation to clearances here and there.

[Bert]

Eman, so which size did you change it to? (if you can remember)

Hi ya bobsmith

FXR150 run a 428, try a RK or DID (around $90) though there are cheeper ones around. original rear sprockets are expensive but a honda XR50-100 sprockets also fit the rear hub, (lots of looking for my bucket racer), all you have to do is drill out the M6's to M8's mounting bolts very easy and they are cheep as $45-50.. front should be around $25 max, replace all the sprockets and chain at the same time. replace the rear hub nuts with some lock nuts ($5) and you'll never have any problems with them coming undone. keep the chain well oil'ed and if you don't buy a o-ring chain that it off and clean it every few months (esp if you are riding around gravel roads).

edit:The prevous post is cheeper, we must have been writing it at the same time