PDA

View Full Version : Tyre choice for adventure riding? (Mixing road and off-road)



Pages : 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 [12] 13 14

NordieBoy
19th December 2013, 10:48
Weird. I get way less k's from the 244's than the 705's.

244's are up to about 8,000km max and the 705's are up to 12-15,000km.

Underground
19th December 2013, 13:12
130 80 17 T63=$159 ex cycletreads free delivery, good tyres! (mine is on its way)

dino3310
19th December 2013, 14:24
Weird. I get way less k's from the 244's than the 705's.

244's are up to about 8,000km max and the 705's are up to 12-15,000km.

what about the 704's

NordieBoy
19th December 2013, 20:17
what about the 704's

1 less, obviously...

dino3310
22nd December 2013, 20:29
cheap K760 http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/tyres/auction-676678602.htm

cynna
22nd December 2013, 20:39
are e-09s made of gold now? $279 for a rear according to latest kiwirider mag

cold comfort
23rd December 2013, 18:12
i could have a set of new tck 80 tyres for sale (19"/17") as I could be up grading the v strom to a Ktm 990. Just see what happens

Now that makes more sense for the DB1K ,and makes me jealous at the same time..

gpcustom
23rd December 2013, 18:51
Now that makes more sense for the DB1K ,and makes me jealous at the same time..

Yep that's the plan but the Ktm might be off the cards already. But still looking to move onto something spokes but at the end of the day if it doesn't happen I will just keep on with the v strom:rolleyes:

dino3310
26th December 2013, 18:07
just a point of interest... if you're looking at second hand enduro tires give em a good going over before riding on them, i just chucked a rear S12 and a front Gritty out, looked like they had been run on really low psi for a while as the rear had cracks and the front had a scuffing through the canvas all around the same line about where the edge of the rim is:weep:

but they were cheap and they had mates on the rack to take there place:clap:

gpcustom
26th December 2013, 20:59
I have a set of TCK80 tyres brand new

110/80/19 & 150/70/17 tubeless

$400 for both

_Shrek_
27th December 2013, 11:39
I have a set of TCK80 tyres brand new

110/80/19 & 150/70/17 tubeless

$400 for both

are you selling gp? if so sold

gpcustom
27th December 2013, 14:20
are you selling gp? if so sold

Hi Shrek yes i still have the tyres.

gpcustom
27th December 2013, 17:10
Sold to Shrek

Zarkov
29th December 2013, 10:40
I recently swapped the http://www.ebay.com/bhp/klr-600 front tyre on my KLR for something more suited to my 90/10 mix of tarseal/gravel riding.

I fitted one of these http://www.visordown.com/product-features/michelin-anakee-3-review/22593.html .

What a difference it's made.

The bike tracks much better cornering, rides smoother, and is a lot [50%] nicer to ride.

Highly recommend.


Interested in your comments.

george formby
29th December 2013, 17:30
I recently swapped the http://www.ebay.com/bhp/klr-600 front tyre on my KLR for something more suited to my 90/10 mix of tarseal/gravel riding.

I fitted one of these http://www.visordown.com/product-features/michelin-anakee-3-review/22593.html .

What a difference it's made.

The bike tracks much better cornering, rides smoother, and is a lot [50%] nicer to ride.

Highly recommend.


Interested in your comments.

Not surprised it's made a difference, if you had that socket set in the first link on your front wheel the bike would have been really loose.;)

Zarkov
2nd January 2014, 19:36
I've done a bit more mileage on my new tyre setup now, both gravel and tarseal.

Can't for the life of me see why dual purpose bikes come with such aggressive front tyre treads as standard.

My noob impression is that the Michelin is just as good on gravel and twice as good on the seal.


I can see the benefit of knobbly front tyres on mud/grass etc, but do they make any difference on sand?

It's not as though you're braking much with the front on those surfaces.

NordieBoy
2nd January 2014, 20:11
I've done a bit more mileage on my new tyre setup now, both gravel and tarseal.

Can't for the life of me see why dual purpose bikes come with such aggressive front tyre treads as standard.

My noob impression is that the Michelin is just as good on gravel and twice as good on the seal.


I can see the benefit of knobbly front tyres on mud/grass etc, but do they make any difference on sand?

It's not as though you're braking much with the front on those surfaces.

They do make a difference, especially for riders with lower confidence/skill levels.
At the other extreme, riders that hammer it also need knobs that match what they're doing.

pete-blen
3rd January 2014, 09:40
This is why I have taken a likeing to the Shinko 700.. A good 50/50 tire
that works well on most terrain & seal... the XT is to big/heavy for
anything realy gnary or muddy..

pouakai
3rd January 2014, 14:50
The APC rally organisers recommend(if not mandate) the Dunlop 606 for the rally on most bikes but the 908 for the heavy weight adventure bikes. In NZ the 606 if fairly expensive I think running mid to late 200s and is perhaps comparable to the M21 from Pirelli which comes in easily under $200. However the only price I have seen for the 908 is on the cycletreads website at $477 the rear ! OMFG that's $78 more than the super trick super corsa on the back of my Pani ! Has anyone sourced these for a lot less money and hence have any insights on their performance and or worth on the big twin adventure bikes ?
P

Night Falcon
3rd January 2014, 16:48
The APC rally organisers recommend(if not mandate) the Dunlop 606 for the rally on most bikes but the 908 for the heavy weight adventure bikes. In NZ the 606 if fairly expensive I think running mid to late 200s and is perhaps comparable to the M21 from Pirelli which comes in easily under $200. However the only price I have seen for the 908 is on the cycletreads website at $477 the rear ! OMFG that's $78 more than the super trick super corsa on the back of my Pani ! Has anyone sourced these for a lot less money and hence have any insights on their performance and or worth on the big twin adventure bikes ?
P

Have read plenty about the 908 which a lot of people rate as an excellent tire. Like most tires though there are varying reports on how long they last especially on the big twins which by some accounts isn't very long. At $477.00 smackers a pop you'd have to say there's a definite strategy to limit sales to Kiwi motorcyclists - not that I'm a conspiracy theorist at all :shifty: but its probably to force us all to buy more of those dodgy shinkos :nono:

dino3310
3rd January 2014, 21:23
They do make a difference, especially for riders with lower confidence/skill levels.
At the other extreme, riders that hammer it also need knobs that match what they're doing.

cant argue with that, i would agree on both counts

_Shrek_
4th January 2014, 17:50
but its probably to force us all to buy more of those dodgy shinkos :nono:

they could give the 705's away!!! but I'd still go & buy some thing else... I've had two sets & both delaminated :angry2:

:scratch: yet they seem to work on the smaller bikes ok...

now have a brand new set of TKC 80's ($400) to wear out cheers Gp :apint:

chasio
4th January 2014, 20:08
they could give the 705's away!!! but I'd still go & buy some thing else... I've had two sets & both delaminated :angry2:

:scratch: yet they seem to work on the smaller bikes ok...

now have a brand new set of TKC 80's ($400) to wear out cheers Gp :apint:

I may be having a mad moment, but I thought it was the Mitas E-07's that gave up on you..? Apologies if I have misremembered that. (PS tried to search for your post but no luck, somehow.)

_Shrek_
5th January 2014, 07:09
I may be having a mad moment, but I thought it was the Mitas E-07's that gave up on you..? Apologies if I have misremembered that. (PS tried to search for your post but no luck, somehow.)

:eek: hell no love the Eo7's are my main tyre also use the Eo9's & 10's but the price is getting up there, so always looking for bargains

Night Falcon
5th January 2014, 09:19
My E07 has been a great tire so far- probably done about 2k on it and its still like new. Would definitely buy one again - if it lasts this well on a 690 I imagine you'd get 20,000 klm with one on a KLR?

chasio
5th January 2014, 11:14
:eek: hell no love the Eo7's are my main tyre also use the Eo9's & 10's but the price is getting up there, so always looking for bargains

A mad moment then; and LOL at 'love' because without punctuation it can read amusingly :)

The last time a bloke called me 'love' was in a Bradford bakery about 25 years ago (ah, God's own county: the land of Timothy Taylor's Golden Best).

Back on topic, I like E-07's too, but bearing in mind I am largely talentless, I think the Freewind will be wearing an E-09 rear instead of the 07 for the DB. She needs a new front & will prob try a TKC80.

_Shrek_
5th January 2014, 15:49
I like E-07's too, but bearing in mind I am largely talentless, I think the Freewind will be wearing an E-09 rear instead of the 07 for the DB. She needs a new front & will prob try a TKC80.

the Eo9 front will work as well as a TKC 80 & get more mileage, guess it comes down to $$$

Woodman
5th January 2014, 18:04
My E07 has been a great tire so far- probably done about 2k on it and its still like new. Would definitely buy one again - if it lasts this well on a 690 I imagine you'd get 20,000 klm with one on a KLR?



:shutup::shutup::shutup::shutup:

Not biting................

Night Falcon
5th January 2014, 21:10
:shutup::shutup::shutup::shutup:

Not biting................

not too much of a wind up - I might end up with one yet :weep: are you allowed to paint them orange?

NordieBoy
6th January 2014, 06:54
not too much of a wind up - I might end up with one yet :weep: are you allowed to paint them orange?

An orange E07 would just look weird.

Night Falcon
6th January 2014, 09:04
An orange E07 would just look weird.

cutting edge ideas can turn heads before they catch on....then neck minute every tire and KLR will be orange

NordieBoy
6th January 2014, 09:20
They already do an orange klr. It's called the ktm690...

chasio
6th January 2014, 09:22
the Eo9 front will work as well as a TKC 80 & get more mileage, guess it comes down to $$$

I was quoted $200 fitted for the TKC or $160 for the E-09. Thought I'd give one a tickle for $40.

_Shrek_
6th January 2014, 12:51
An orange E07 would just look weird.

not to worry he already weird!!! he rides a KTM :whistle:

Night Falcon
6th January 2014, 14:11
not to worry he already weird!!! he once rode a KTM :whistle:

fixed for ya :cry:

dino3310
27th January 2014, 10:27
cheap 606s down south http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/tyres/auction-690019009.htm

clint640
29th January 2014, 08:19
Thinking of trying a Heidenau K60 on the back of the 640 - 140/80-18 - but not at $293! Anydody seen them cheaper? Will probably go for another E0-7 otherwise.

Cheers
Clint

Oscar
29th January 2014, 08:25
Thinking of trying a Heidenau K60 on the back of the 640 - 140/80-18 - but not at $293! Anydody seen them cheaper? Will probably go for another E0-7 otherwise.

Cheers
Clint

I've had a couple on my 950 and I don't like 'em.
The Mitas (an E0-10 in my case) was betterer and if yer spending up large, shell out the extra for a TKC80.

vegeman
29th January 2014, 09:54
Thinking of trying a Heidenau K60 on the back of the 640 - 140/80-18 - but not at $293! Anydody seen them cheaper? Will probably go for another E0-7 otherwise.

Cheers
Clint

Hey...
I also had trialled a K60 as well, and while they wear as well as the E07...I also ended up not liking it either. The reason for me was once I cocked up a slippery grass hill climb, and I really struggled to get it to hook up again...I had almost no pressure in the rear tyre but the damn thing still wouldn't flex enough to grip. I know that they E07 would have worked as the grip well when low PSI, plus it gets massive mileage as well....so I don't see the need for the K60 anymore

I'm sticking with E07 as my high mileage/everything tyre. Then use my MT21 rear, when I know that it will get bad. (MT21 has been pretty darn good...as this is my first time using one on the rear...grip on everything is better than I expected, wear and tear also better than expected...only comment is that it has a classic knobbly scream/whine on asphalt, but thats because of the gaps which is why it's a knobbly :-D )

clint640
29th January 2014, 10:47
I've had a couple on my 950 and I don't like 'em.
The Mitas (an E0-10 in my case) was betterer and if yer spending up large, shell out the extra for a TKC80.

I've tried a TKC80 rear (they were on special, buggered if I'd pay full price) It was nice on tar & gravel but only lasted a couple of 3 decent weekends, & it wasn't good enough in more sticky offroad conditions to justify the rapid wear. TKC80 fronts are good but I've found the Dunlop D605 to offer pretty much identical performance for $50 less so I run those for my general purpose front now.

I've run heaps of E0-7s now, just interested to try something similar but different as long as it doesn't come at a $100 premium.

Cheers
Clint

Oscar
29th January 2014, 10:55
I've tried a TKC80 rear (they were on special, buggered if I'd pay full price) It was nice on tar & gravel but only lasted a couple of 3 decent weekends, & it wasn't good enough in more sticky offroad conditions to justify the rapid wear. TKC80 fronts are good but I've found the Dunlop D605 to offer pretty much identical performance for $50 less so I run those for my general purpose front now.

I've run heaps of E0-7s now, just interested to try something similar but different as long as it doesn't come at a $100 premium.

Cheers
Clint

I've given up on knobblies on the back of the 950 completely as it just tempts me into doing things that cause pain (both financial and physical).
I now run a TKC on the front and a MT90 on the back, which is the bizzo for gravel roads and easy off road.

Night Falcon
29th January 2014, 14:46
Thinking of trying a Heidenau K60 on the back of the 640 - 140/80-18 - but not at $293! Anydody seen them cheaper? Will probably go for another E0-7 otherwise.

Cheers
Clint

I've run 2 K60's on the 690 and found them to be a good wearing tire, great on gravel, sand and rocks but not flash on grass. As I don't ride on grass much that never bothered me much. They do have a very stiff side wall so removing them on the trail to fix a flat would be interesting but then again you could probably just keep riding it.

They tend to wear pretty square so when the tread is getting low the rear end can move a bit on the seal when hanging them out on corners, but not dangerous at all.

If you tell the guy on trade me you are on Kiwi Biker he will give you a discount, my last one he took off $20.00 plus free freight. I would use them again for general purpose DS tire but the EO7 is cheaper and just as good so I went that way last time.

10bikekid
30th January 2014, 19:11
I've given up on knobblies on the back of the 950 completely as it just tempts me into doing things that cause pain (both financial and physical).
I now run a TKC on the front and a MT90 on the back, which is the bizzo for gravel roads and easy off road.

I'd agree with your rear tire choice, a 950 is to racey to run anything less on the road, I gave up on the front Kenda Big block as well, it gripped ok but felt I had no margin for error if things went wrong and I had to squeeze those twin front discs hard, so went back to MT90 on the front (didn't like the 160k speed rating either)

IMHO smaller slower bikes are better for aggressive tires and major off road duties, bigger faster ADV bikes are road and gravel rocket ships.

_Shrek_
30th January 2014, 19:20
I've given up on knobblies on the back of the 950 completely as it just tempts me into doing things that cause pain (both financial and physical).
I now run a TKC on the front and a MT90 on the back, which is the bizzo for gravel roads and easy off road.

have you tried the TKC or E10 front & Eo7 rear combo? I found them good on the beamer with good k's

Oscar
30th January 2014, 22:19
have you tried the TKC or E10 front & Eo7 rear combo? I found them good on the beamer with good k's

KTM950/990's eat rear tyres.
I've tried E10's, TKC's, Heidewhatsits, Michelins and Metzlers,and the only thing that lasts more 'n 3,000ks is the standard Pirelli MT90.

_Shrek_
31st January 2014, 07:32
KTM950/990's eat rear tyres.
I've tried E10's, TKC's, Heidewhatsits, Michelins and Metzlers,and the only thing that lasts more 'n 3,000ks is the standard Pirelli MT90.

mmmmmmmmmmm heavy handed bugga :laugh:

try the Eo7 on the rear I've got 10500 - 23400 k's depending on hand control, Dr phil uses them on his 990 & runs them at 34psi so they don't light up so fast

10bikekid
31st January 2014, 14:04
KTM950/990's eat rear tyres.
I've tried E10's, TKC's, Heidewhatsits, Michelins and Metzlers,and the only thing that lasts more 'n 3,000ks is the standard Pirelli MT90.


mmmmmmmmmmm heavy handed bugga :laugh:

try the Eo7 on the rear I've got 10500 - 23400 k's depending on hand control, Dr phil uses them on his 990 & runs them at 34psi so they don't light up so fast

MT90 Rear last me 6- 7000ks at 37psi and a bit of gravel at 25psi (not to much gravel or tire is gone)

Completely bald and useless after that :yes:

thepom
14th February 2014, 08:41
Need a back tire for my 690...looking at moto z tractionater.....anybody know anything about them....seem cheap enough....

clint640
14th February 2014, 09:20
Need a back tire for my 690...looking at moto z tractionater.....anybody know anything about them....seem cheap enough....

They are great for an aggressive road legal knobbly. Buy one. I've run most things similar - T63, E-09, MT21, D606... The Motoz is my pick now, lasts well, grips well & the price is very sharp. Burned one up down south last year, got a fairly fresh one on the rack to go on for Pukemanu.

Cheers
Clint

thepom
14th February 2014, 15:49
Excellent....cheers for the help..

Buddha#81
15th February 2014, 08:09
Need a back tire for my 690...looking at moto z tractionater.....anybody know anything about them....seem cheap enough....

Ran them on the XR650 on the last two DB1K great tyre but were rooted at the end, however at fook all they are good $ per km. Good all rounder on a lighter bike.

Oscar
15th February 2014, 13:29
I just put a Metzler Karoo 3 on my 950.

http://images.motorcycle-superstore.com/ProductImages/OG/0000-Metzeler-Karoo-3-Rear-Tire---.jpg

pouakai
15th February 2014, 14:04
Ooh, let me know how those go...
P

pete-blen
15th February 2014, 16:59
just put another Shinko 700 on the XTR for the dusty....
Got 4132km from the last one.. which is pretty good as it was always run below
Yamaha's recommended pressure of 29psi..

<a href="http://s1244.photobucket.com/user/petenz1/media/SAM_0161.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg563/petenz1/SAM_0161.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo SAM_0161.jpg"/></a>

10bikekid
15th February 2014, 21:08
I just put a Metzler Karoo 3 on my 950.



Was looking at those at the last tire change, would be interested in comparo to MT90's

oneblackflag
15th February 2014, 21:29
just put another Shinko 700 on the XTR for the dusty....
Got 4132km from the last one.. which is pretty good as it was always run below
Yamaha's recommended pressure of 29psi..


Have a 704 on the rear of the WRr. Seems to be wearing very quick I'll be lucky to get Near 2000k... It is narrow though 4.60 from memory, would that be the problem or is the 704 softer than a 700? Could be my wrist....:cool:

10bikekid
15th February 2014, 21:50
Have a 704 on the rear of the WRr. Seems to be wearing very quick I'll be lucky to get Near 2000k... It is narrow though 4.60 from memory, would that be the problem or is the 704 softer than a 700? Could be my wrist....:cool:

Nah, its the tire, and perhaps low tire pressures ?

Can get 6000 + Ks out of the right tire on a 950 putting 100hp through it at times (maybe only 75hp on the gravel :confused:)

How you finding that WR, they sound like a mean ride

pete-blen
15th February 2014, 22:00
Have a 704 on the rear of the WRr. Seems to be wearing very quick I'll be lucky to get Near 2000k... It is narrow though 4.60 from memory, would that be the problem or is the 704 softer than a 700? Could be my wrist....:cool:


the XT660R has a rekluse clutch in it... which soften out the power delivery to the rear wheel... must help tire ware...

oneblackflag
15th February 2014, 22:01
Nah, its the tire, and perhaps low tire pressures ?

Can get 6000 + Ks out of the right tire on a 950 putting 100hp through it at times (maybe only 75hp on the gravel :confused:)

How you finding that WR, they sound like a mean ride

Have it around 28psi usually. Have a long gravel drive that I like to keep ripped up.... Must stop that :oi-grr:

Think its great for a 250, modded the airbox, header, exhaust and changed the rear sprocket from 42 stock (way to high) to a light 45 tooth today, zips around perfecty now even up hill, quite quick up to 100 clicks too. Should have 28-30 ponies now.

oneblackflag
15th February 2014, 22:05
the XT660R has a rekluse clutch in it... which soften out the power delivery to the rear wheel... must help tire ware...

:niceone: sure you're not taking it to easy?:bleh:

10bikekid
15th February 2014, 22:06
Have it around 28psi usually. Have a long gravel drive that I like to keep ripped up.... Must stop that :oi-grr:

Think its great for a 250, modded the airbox, header, exhaust and changed the rear sprocket from 42 stock (way to high) to a light 45 tooth today, zips around perfecty now even up hill, quite quick up to 100 clicks too. Should have 28-30 ponies now.

Would be a good go anywhere bike, I'd think, what about the seat ?

I sat on one the other day at Cycletreads, man it was high (seemed taller than My YZ) do you notice that ?

PS, I've noticed the metal halves your tire life and trashes them badly once on they're worn side, unless you take it easy which is really no fun at all <_<

oneblackflag
15th February 2014, 22:19
Would be a good go anywhere bike, I'd think, what about the seat ?

I sat on one the other day a Cycle treads man it was high (seemed taller than My YZ) do you notice that ?

PS, I've noticed the metal halves your tire life and trashes them badly once on they're worn side, unless you take it easy which is really no fun at all <_<

Yea tall seat, can be lowered half an inch or so. Narrow and hard on the arse after an hour... You get used to it, like a cycle. Good aftermarket seats for it.

Can't help but fishtail up the drive, too much fun.:love:

dino3310
16th February 2014, 00:47
Have a 704 on the rear of the WRr. Seems to be wearing very quick I'll be lucky to get Near 2000k... It is narrow though 4.60 from memory, would that be the problem or is the 704 softer than a 700? Could be my wrist....:cool:

the 244 seems to be lasting well on the XR, 3500 so far reckon i might get anotner K out of it, cheap to from bits4bikes $98

oneblackflag
16th February 2014, 00:51
the 244 seems to be lasting well on the XR, 3500 so far reckon i might get anotner K out of it, cheap to from bits4bikes $98

Yea think I'll try the 244 next.... You had told me... Didn't listen :facepalm:

NordieBoy
16th February 2014, 08:03
Yea think I'll try the 244 next.... You had told me... Didn't listen :facepalm:

If you like fishtailing, you'll love the 244.

Baldyman
16th February 2014, 09:27
Unfortunately most of my riding is on tar seal these days. I was looking for a more road based tyre, good in the wet. Has anyone tried the Anakee 3?

F650GS Dakar. Currently TKC's

Any other recommendations for road based tyres, with a little dirt would be appreciated.

Thank you.

oneblackflag
16th February 2014, 09:46
If you like fishtailing, you'll love the 244.

Well it's a trade off, I'd rather not be fishtailing all over the road when doing gravel, but I'm mostly on the black stuff. Had a Michelin AC10, loved it but obviously it got a hammering on the road.

pete-blen
16th February 2014, 10:25
Unfortunately most of my riding is on tar seal these days. I was looking for a more road based tyre, good in the wet. Has anyone tried the Anakee 3?

F650GS Dakar. Currently TKC's

Any other recommendations for road based tyres, with a little dirt would be appreciated.

Thank you.


Shinko 705....

dino3310
16th February 2014, 19:39
If you like fishtailing, you'll love the 244.

thats a yes on both counts :laugh: it will out live the AC10 rear by 2folds

Baldyman
17th February 2014, 10:13
Shinko 705....

Thanks for the info, they look like a good tyre at a good price (Cycletreads).

I did a quick search on Google for reviews and two You-tube videos were among the list and they showed some issues with the tyres. Has anyone on here had quality problems with the Shinko 705's?

Box'a'bits
17th February 2014, 10:21
Most people that try to run them on heavy bikes (R1150GS etc)

_Shrek_
17th February 2014, 11:54
Thanks for the info, they look like a good tyre at a good price (Cycletreads).

I did a quick search on Google for reviews and two You-tube videos were among the list and they showed some issues with the tyres. Has anyone on here had quality problems with the Shinko 705's?

they seem to run on the smaller bikes ok but on the 1150gs they delaminated on me twice & on a V-strom

snodpete
17th February 2014, 16:58
I had a Shinko pop its tread blocks - Wee-Strom 2-up about 2000km - so +1 for the 'heavy bikes' warning.

On to more important stuff - fitted new Tourance EXP to the front today and it has this wee logo on the tread - what does it mean? Heavy but fast? Made in India? What do you reckon?
293773

Tazz
17th February 2014, 17:03
Made from real genuine fake Elephant?

NordieBoy
17th February 2014, 18:59
Thanks for the info, they look like a good tyre at a good price (Cycletreads).

I did a quick search on Google for reviews and two You-tube videos were among the list and they showed some issues with the tyres. Has anyone on here had quality problems with the Shinko 705's?

Obviously wasn't this vid then...
<object width="853" height="480"><param name="movie" value="//www.youtube.com/v/cI7XqsXXeHY?hl=en_US&amp;version=3"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="//www.youtube.com/v/cI7XqsXXeHY?hl=en_US&amp;version=3" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="853" height="480" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true"></embed></object>

I get upward of 15,000km on the rear of the DR and over 23,000km from a front...

But I do baby them :scooter:

clint640
18th February 2014, 10:11
If you don't feel quite ready for the awesomeness of the Shinko 705 the MT90 Pirelli is a good cheap 'roady' adv tyre.

Cheers
Clint

Baldyman
18th February 2014, 11:23
If you don't feel quite ready for the awesomeness of the Shinko 705 the MT90 Pirelli is a good cheap 'roady' adv tyre.

Cheers
Clint

Thanks Clint. While price is always a factor, I do still want a good tyre. Do you run the 705's on your 640? If so, how have you found them?

Oscar
18th February 2014, 14:37
If you don't feel quite ready for the awesomeness of the Shinko 705 the MT90 Pirelli is a good cheap 'roady' adv tyre.

Cheers
Clint

The combination of a TKC on the front and an MT90 on the back is awesome on a 950/990Adv for everything but "proper" offroad.
Great on gravel.

_Shrek_
18th February 2014, 18:19
The combination of a TKC on the front and an MT90 on the back is awesome on a 950/990Adv for everything but "proper" offroad.
Great on gravel.

what's the MT90 look like Oscar

Oscar
18th February 2014, 18:56
what's the MT90 look like Oscar

It's the standard tyre on all KTM 990/950 Adv

http://images.motorcycle-superstore.com/productimages/300/2007_pirelli_mt_90_scorpion_a_t_enduro_front_tire_--.jpg

_Shrek_
18th February 2014, 20:07
It's the standard tyre on all KTM 990/950 Adv

aye couldn't find any my size so have grabbed a set of M-40's ($338) for our road trip to the norf next month & I've wanted to try out a set so this'll be a good time to try them

10bikekid
18th February 2014, 20:39
It's the standard tyre on all KTM 990/950 Adv



For me nothing else would have enough road grip for the bigger KTM's :nono: and still be ok in the gravel (running lower pressures off course)

Oscar
18th February 2014, 21:22
For me nothing else would have enough road grip for the bigger KTM's :nono: and still be ok in the gravel (running lower pressures off course)

Tire pressure..?
Just let it slide, Brudda, let it slide...

oneblackflag
18th February 2014, 22:07
the 244 seems to be lasting well on the XR, 3500 so far reckon i might get anotner K out of it, cheap to from bits4bikes $98

How do you find the 244 on the road? Any good when you lean it right over? I'm really starting to scratch my head choosing a new rear :wacko:... I'm 70% on tarmac and want something that will corner hard yet do a decent job in gravel, the 704 was great at that but had a short life; looks like the 700 would be perfect for my riding but only comes in a 130 18, I'm thinking thats going to be a bit wide for the WR? (doesn't really have any spare power). I wonder if the MT90 will be suitable... $100 at Cycletreads

If anyone can suggest something suitable I'd be greatfull :hug:

dino3310
18th February 2014, 22:35
How do you find the 244 on the road? Any good when you lean it right over? I'm really starting to scratch my head choosing a new rear :wacko:... I'm 70% on tarmac and want something that will corner hard yet do a decent job in gravel, the 704 was great at that but had a short life; looks like the 700 would be perfect for my riding but only comes in a 130 18, I'm thinking thats going to be a bit wide for the WR? (doesn't really have any spare power). I wonder if the MT90 will be suitable... $100 at Cycletreads

If anyone can suggest something suitable I'd be greatfull :hug:

ive got mt90's on at the moment, i chuck em on when im just using the xr for commuting so i save the knobs for the rough stuff, great tyres but shite when it comes to mud like the thompsons.
i normally run an ac10 front with the 244 rear, been pretty sweet so far. the ac10 is the tire i trust the most for the front its a great cofidence booster in the gravel and holds pretty well for a knob on th road, the 244 is pretty good, alright in the mud great on the gravel holds well on the seal the only quirk is when going in hot on a corner touch the rear brake and she gives way a little, but its so predictable you can have fun with it on the tar and steer with it on the gravel. the E09 is my favourite rear but to pricey so i go for the better of the cheap which to me is the 244, its one of those 'jack of all trades master of none' type of tyres. will come down to you and the bike and what works for your set up/ride style.... the 244 suits me and my pig well for now.
took me a couple of years to get combos that worked for me, different strokes for different folks.

another to throw in the loop could be the 760trackmaster, fantasic offroad and gravel just a bit squirmy on the road and not such a long life span depending on rider, they pop up on trademe now and again for $80ish brand new.

if you want long life and better road grip then the mt90 or 705 good be a go-er but youll lose the offroad traction... i just change tires to suit, some times chucking a MX rear on. i just scan trade me and when a bargain comes up i pounce, thats how i get so many tires:laugh:
for a while i was running 120 -18 bridgy's 302's because i could get em for $20 they where fantastic for the price but not that great a tire.

am i confusing you more yet:lol: i can go on :laugh:

dino3310
18th February 2014, 22:40
'thatlookslikefun' and 'rosie' are on wr's would be interesting to see whats worked for them

oneblackflag
18th February 2014, 22:52
am i confusing you more yet:lol: i can go on :laugh:

No, thanks for the reply :2thumbsup. Think I know what I'll do now: MT90 rear for the most part, swap it out for the AC10 or other knobly for the dirty stuff. I have a TCK80 on the front which I find bloody good on and off road, so that can stay full time.

I actually have a spare rear hub so depending on cost I may just lace up another rim and keep a knobbly ready to go :cool:. Any ideas on that cost?

oneblackflag
18th February 2014, 22:55
Oh, and must spread more rep yadda yadda before Dino gets more :)

dino3310
19th February 2014, 07:00
I actually have a spare rear hub so depending on cost I may just lace up another rim and keep a knobbly ready to go :cool:. Any ideas on that cost?

I would if I could but $$$an issue:crazy:

clint640
19th February 2014, 10:36
Thanks Clint. While price is always a factor, I do still want a good tyre. Do you run the 705's on your 640? If so, how have you found them?

The 640 is too cool for Shinkos :nono: Actually the 705's aren't available in a 130 or 140 wide 18" version to suit my proper size back rim & I usually like to run something a little more aggressive anyway - an E-07 rear is my normal commuting-touring tyre & I have more knobby options on the rack for gnarlier rides.

Has anybody tried the Shinko E700 rear? These are available in 130/18. 140's usually seem to last a bit better for me though, may just get another E0-7.

Cheers
Clint

Tug Boat
19th February 2014, 14:21
The 640 is too cool for Shinkos :nono: Actually the 705's aren't available in a 130 or 140 wide 18" version to suit my proper size back rim & I usually like to run something a little more aggressive anyway - an E-07 rear is my normal commuting-touring tyre & I have more knobby options on the rack for gnarlier rides.

Has anybody tried the Shinko E700 rear? These are available in 130/18. 140's usually seem to last a bit better for me though, may just get another E0-7.

Cheers
Clint

I ran the Shenko E700 rear on the 690 on the South Island loop in November 4500 ks Blenheim back to Blenheim did well for a $ 130.00 tyre just the 130 size looks a little skinny on the 690.

Cheers
Andrew

10bikekid
19th February 2014, 19:05
Tire pressure..?
Just let it slide, Brudda, let it slide...

34 37 Road 22 25 Gravel :whistle:

oneblackflag
21st February 2014, 23:36
'thatlookslikefun' and 'rosie' are on wr's would be interesting to see whats worked for them

Ended up ordering a Shinko 700 rear... 130/80 hopefully it won't be to much slower at turning in than the 704 4.60. Seems like they last alot longer on the road, good on gravel. This will be my main tyre and I'll chuck on the AC10 for the dirt/mud:headbang:

Opted for the 700 over 244 for street cornering/grip.

oneblackflag
22nd February 2014, 00:00
I actually have a spare rear hub so depending on cost I may just lace up another rim and keep a knobbly ready to go :cool:. Any ideas on that cost?


I would if I could but $$$an issue:crazy:

Costed a rim + spokes at Boydes... Ca-ching $$$.... Nuts, and I have the hub already ;) :rolleyes:.

Quality rim, spokes and rotor will be $280 + post from US. Or whole built wheel $450 (but then i'd need to sell the Existing hub).

Wonder how long the payback time would be on saved tyre wear having a street 90/10 + 20/80 setups...? Certainly save on change over time.

dino3310
22nd February 2014, 13:19
Costed a rim + spokes at Boydes... Ca-ching $$$.... Nuts, and I have the hub already ;) :rolleyes:.

Quality rim, spokes and rotor will be $280 + post from US. Or whole built wheel $450 (but then i'd need to sell the Existing hub).

Wonder how long the payback time would be on saved tyre wear having a street 90/10 + 20/80 setups...? Certainly save on change over time.

Nice mate.........
im just keeping an eye out for the odd set on trademe, lots of xr200/250 rims about and when they put a 600 set on they pump the price up.... one day i'll come accross a cheap set in some ones shed but till then i'll just keep tire changing

dino3310
23rd February 2014, 12:51
another to throw in the loop could be the 760trackmaster, fantasic offroad and gravel just a bit squirmy on the road and not such a long life span depending on rider, they pop up on trademe now and again for $80ish brand new.

h:


here it is http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/tyres/auction-698887781.htm

pete-blen
23rd February 2014, 13:21
Nice mate.........
im just keeping an eye out for the odd set on trademe, lots of xr200/250 rims about and when they put a 600 set on they pump the price up.... one day i'll come accross a cheap set in some ones shed but till then i'll just keep tire changing


Adapt a wheel...
i had a 200 shinray rear as a 2nd wheel on my XR250...
made spacers & packed the sprocket out 7mm...

I'm looking for a rear for something to adapt to the XT... DR/KLR/XR etc..anything with a disc & cush drive in 17" or 18"

pouakai
4th March 2014, 07:53
Just finished 2014 DB1K wearing E-09 front(19") and rear(17") on my 200kg Elefant. Chose those tyres because they seem to have positive press, look like they should perform like a tkc80 but are cheaper, and are one of few knobblies available for 19/17.
Verdict: they perform better than you would expect on the seal and I am still able to keep up with my regular buddies on the 'Akaroa GP'. This is quite surprising really when you consider the am mount of actual rubber they put down (i reackon the front must be less than %50 block:space ratio)
On dry hard pack or rocky terrain they have been ok and performed nicely
On wet grass or mud though they are absolutely lethal with barely enough grip to keep the bike vertical while standing still, many times I have been riding happily along one moment and the next ploughing through the mud on my face without really knowing what happened. It's been a lot like try to ride on a nice rink!
The rear I have better opinion of - it has more rubber and deeper tread than the front and there were many times when I was stopped dead in some mud or a river crossing or slippery incline when I expected the worst but found I was still able to 'tractor' out, so credit to the rear hoop.
Overall I find their strongest performance to be on the road but for that you choose a road tyre. I will not be using them again and the front especially will likely be tossed 1/2 used.
P

_Shrek_
4th March 2014, 08:23
Just finished 2014 DB1K wearing E-09 front(19") and rear(17") on my 200kg Elefant.

what psi were you running? the 1150 is 249kg with gear 260ish then add me at 143 in full riding gear & I was running 25 front & 20 rear, any more & it didn't work that well in the wet stuff etc....

pouakai
4th March 2014, 08:30
Started the day at 24/28 and let down to 15/18 in the wet with little improvement in wet grip, but that would go a long way to explain the violent weaving in the gravel on the way out...

Oscar
4th March 2014, 08:38
I tried the Karoo 3 at Pukemanu.

Fantastic on the road, lacks a bit of directional stability on grass/clay.
I think the tread design doesn't bit like a knob (TKC/E10) when side loaded.

For the money - I'll stick with a TKC or e10.

Woodman
4th March 2014, 09:33
Just did the DB1k using a kenda bigblock rear for the first time and usual mt21 front. Kenda was bloody good on and off road except not so good on slippery grass/mud but that may be that I had the pressures at 30PSI to avoid pinch flats.can live with that. The high pressure made it a bit loose on gravel, but that ain't a bad thing for a rear tyre:headbang:. 2200 kms and half worn is excellent in my books.

MT21 was usual good self running at 28psi for same reason.

pouakai
4th March 2014, 13:31
Just did the DB1k using a kenda bigblock rear for the first time and usual mt21 front. Kenda was bloody good on and off road except not so good on slippery grass/mud but that may be that I had the pressures at 30PSI to avoid pinch flats.can live with that. The high pressure made it a bit loose on gravel, but that ain't a bad thing for a rear tyre:headbang:. 2200 kms and half worn is excellent in my books.

MT21 was usual good self running at 28psi for same reason.

Yuh, I'm rapt with the MT21 on the KTM450 just not sure how they'd go / last supporting a bike twice the weight....:scratch:

Oscar
4th March 2014, 13:40
Yuh, I'm rapt with the MT21 on the KTM450 just not sure how they'd go / last supporting a bike twice the weight....:scratch:

I used them on a 640 LC4 Enduro, which is a big ole lump and they were good.

Greg Boyd used to use them on the back of a 990.

pouakai
4th March 2014, 13:42
I used them on a 640 LC4 Enduro, which is a big ole lump and they were good.

Greg Boyd used to use them on the back of a 990.

Oh well a set may well find their way onto the big hoops for the Elefant then...

pete-blen
4th March 2014, 17:11
I run Shinko 700s again... never got stoped though lack of tracktion or front end wash outs...
Rears less than half worn after 1,800k
Will be another set on when these are gone..

NordieBoy
4th March 2014, 18:48
3 sets of half worn 17" MT21 rears in the Emporium if anyone wants to do some burnouts or something.

oneblackflag
5th March 2014, 22:54
I run Shinko 700s again... never got stoped though lack of tracktion or front end wash outs...
Rears less than half worn after 1,800k
Will be another set on when these are gone..

Glad to hear that. My 700 seems great so far on tarmac and gravel, seems like I got it right this time round:niceone:

gpcustom
12th March 2014, 19:28
Just put some sort of Kenda tyres on the tenere. There not full knobley but pretty close to it
Cost me $300 all up front and rear and that was including rear bearings :yes:

http://www.motozone.co.nz/products/tyres/adventure-tyres/kenda-tyres-2/kenda-k270-trail-tyre.aspx

XF650
12th March 2014, 20:01
Just put some sort of Kenda tyres on the tenere. There not full knobley but pretty close to it
Cost me $300 all up front and rear and that was including rear bearings :yes:

http://www.motozone.co.nz/products/tyres/adventure-tyres/kenda-tyres-2/kenda-k270-trail-tyre.aspx

My experience with those Kenda's is they have soft side knobs & bike can "lurch" when cornering. Otherwise not a adv bad tyre.

gpcustom
12th March 2014, 20:11
My experience with those Kenda's is they have soft side knobs & bike can "lurch" when cornering. Otherwise not a adv bad tyre.

I wanted to try some mitas tyres but I thought these were a good price so will give them a go

dino3310
12th March 2014, 20:14
My experience with those Kenda's is they have soft side knobs & bike can "lurch" when cornering. Otherwise not a adv bad tyre.

them 270 fronts can be a bit whooooooah f@#k

XF650
13th March 2014, 09:51
them 270 fronts can be a bit whooooooah f@#k

Here was my experience with the K270 rear - even Bart agreed: http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/31920-Tyre-choice-for-adventure-riding-(Mixing-road-and-off-road)?p=1129737158#post1129737158

dino3310
13th March 2014, 19:13
true dat
760's get a bit like that but is to be expected with the bigger knobs.
244's are alrite, there a little squirmy but predictable and lots of fun rear wheel stearing:D

pete-blen
13th March 2014, 20:08
Glad to hear that. My 700 seems great so far on tarmac and gravel, seems like I got it right this time round:niceone:


They arn't a bad tyre.... work well on 90% of the type of ground I ride the XTR on..
I can't see the point in buying tyres to suit the other 10% I don't ride often..

oneblackflag
13th March 2014, 20:43
They arn't a bad tyre.... work well on 90% of the type of ground I ride the XTR on..
I can't see the point in buying tyres to suit the other 10% I don't ride often..

Yea exactly, put another one on for that stuff. They are awasome on road and do gravel decently.

george formby
14th March 2014, 08:12
It's time for new boots on the DT. I have knobbies on me spare wheels so am looking at a good tar seal & bit of gravel tire. Checked prices on Pirelli MT 90 A/T's, nay bad. I have this tire on the front of the TDM & am very impressed indeed with it's performance on the road, wet & dry, also gravel. Never had a moment.
Any thoughts on comparable tires before I splurge?

Oscar
14th March 2014, 08:30
It's time for new boots on the DT. I have knobbies on me spare wheels so am looking at a good tar seal & bit of gravel tire. Checked prices on Pirelli MT 90 A/T's, nay bad. I have this tire on the front of the TDM & am very impressed indeed with it's performance on the road, wet & dry, also gravel. Never had a moment.
Any thoughts on comparable tires before I splurge?

On a lighter bike, I'd look at the road legal Pirelli knobs - MT21?

george formby
14th March 2014, 08:40
On a lighter bike, I'd look at the road legal Pirelli knobs - MT21?

Part of my reasoning is to get extended mileage, could be moot, the Pirellis are very soft. A road legal semi knobbie is struggling to live more than 3000km. The current one has about 3mm left in the centre at just under that mileage, er, kilometreage
Most of our riding is tar with the odd gravel stint. Loosing a bit of grip on gravel is no big deal. As you say the bike is light enough to forgive over enthusiasm. I also intend to go back to standard gearing with road oriented wheels, poor wee thing gets a flogging on big roads on the lower gearing.
When I want to role in the mud I just swap the wheels over, 15 mins. Done.

XF650
14th March 2014, 09:33
Part of my reasoning is to get extended mileage, could be moot, the Pirellis are very soft. A road legal semi knobbie is struggling to live more than 3000km. The current one has about 3mm left in the centre at just under that mileage, er, kilometreage
Most of our riding is tar with the odd gravel stint. Loosing a bit of grip on gravel is no big deal. As you say the bike is light enough to forgive over enthusiasm. I also intend to go back to standard gearing with road oriented wheels, poor wee thing gets a flogging on big roads on the lower gearing.
When I want to role in the mud I just swap the wheels over, 15 mins. Done.

GF
Like you, I have two sets of wheels for my DT230.

For seal, gravel & most adv riding I use Dunlop D605's: http://www.cycletreads.co.nz/products/325-dunlop_trail/4376-dunlop_d605_dual_sportstreet_t.aspx They suit light bikes, last well & perform bloody good on seal & gravel. You can find near new sets quite cheap, I assume because they come std on some trail bikes & are changed out for full knobblies.
D603's also suit light bikes but more trail focused than road.
For knarlier adv rides my other wheel set is fitted with BF Goodrich Crossengo's, but getting hard to find. AC10's are similar tyre.
Have also tried EO7's & EO9's on the DT but I think they suit heavier bikes better..
XF

vegeman
14th March 2014, 09:46
I also rode Pirelli MT21 front and rear for the DB1K, and was really happy with the grip. The front hasn't worn much at all, the rear is noisy and worn ie <3mm. (I also was riding with rear wheel consideration, ie not trying to power out of every corner with the goal of keeping as much of the knobs on as possible...which at times was boring, having to think about wear)

All in all, I thought they gripped well during all sections, and it coped with the tarmac ride from Welly there an back. I'd say that I have done perhaps 3000K's maybe a few hundred more.

I like the front, and will leave it on for all road and stuff...the rear was put on specifically for the ride, as I wanted good off road traction for the grass/mud and stuff which it did effortlessly. Now that I know it wears as quick as the TKC80's rears, I will have to put them on for specific events. thinking back to the event I would have got through the event with E07 rears, as their longevity and grip makes for a good alround tyre. So, if I had to do a ride greater than 3000k's...I'd got with the MT21 Front, and E07 rear.

george formby
14th March 2014, 09:52
GF
Like you, I have two sets of wheels for my DT230.

For seal, gravel & most adv riding I use Dunlop D605's: http://www.cycletreads.co.nz/products/325-dunlop_trail/4376-dunlop_d605_dual_sportstreet_t.aspx
They suit light bikes, last well & perform bloody good on seal & gravel. You can find near new sets quite cheap, I assume because they come std on some trail bikes & are changed out for full knobblies.

For knarlier adv rides my other wheel set is fitted with BF Goodrich Crossengo's, but getting hard to find. AC10's are similar tyre.
XF

What sort of mileage do you get? The Pirellis are cheaper but I note that they also say designed for big bikes. Not sure how lack of weight would affect the performance.

XF650
14th March 2014, 11:16
What sort of mileage do you get? The Pirellis are cheaper but I note that they also say designed for big bikes. Not sure how lack of weight would affect the performance.

Because I swap the wheel sets I've lost track of mileage on the 605's but they seem to last well - better than other tyres I've tried. For your mainly road / gravel wheel set I think you will be impressed, even cornering on wet seal.
Not sure why but there seems to be a difference in (same) tyre performance between heavier 4 strokes than lighter 2 strokes. Obviously a lot comes down to the rider but Vege's comment re MT21 front / EO7 rear is also the ideal all-round combo for my XF when I have the 21" front fitted, but not my preference on the DT230.
Weirdly I also got great performance out of worn 19" EO9 front on (dry) seal, with lean angles well onto the side knobs, back when I still had my mojo, peg scraping through the Catlins:
294850

george formby
14th March 2014, 11:42
Because I swap the wheel sets I've lost track of mileage on the 605's but they seem to last well - better than other tyres I've tried. For your mainly road / gravel wheel set I think you will be impressed, even cornering on wet seal.
Not sure why but there seems to be a difference in (same) tyre performance between heavier 4 strokes than lighter 2 strokes. Obviously a lot comes down to the rider but Vege's comment re MT21 front / EO7 rear is also the ideal all-round combo for my XF when I have the 21" front fitted, but not my preference on the DT230.
Weirdly I also got great performance out of worn 19" EO9 front on (dry) seal, with lean angles well onto the side knobs, back when I still had my mojo, peg scraping through the Catlins:
294850

LOL. No rubber unloved on ours either, secretly that's another reason I'm looking at this style of tread, more lean angle:whistle:
I've dropped the DT doing gymkhana when I ran out of front, didn't fall far, though. I've also had the current rear cut loose exiting corners on the road. We have mile after mile of sub 80 kmh bends round here & the DT loves em.
Scraping the pegs might be a degree or two beyond my abilities. I have a very healthy fear threshold.

oneblackflag
14th March 2014, 16:01
It's time for new boots on the DT. I have knobbies on me spare wheels so am looking at a good tar seal & bit of gravel tire. Checked prices on Pirelli MT 90 A/T's, nay bad. I have this tire on the front of the TDM & am very impressed indeed with it's performance on the road, wet & dry, also gravel. Never had a moment.
Any thoughts on comparable tires before I splurge?

Shinko 700... Done;)

george formby
14th March 2014, 16:33
Shinko 700... Done;)

It's 704's that are being replaced, I like em apart from the early retirement. Get it? :facepalm:Sorry.
I have a 705 rear on the TDM which is a sterling tire but huffs occasionally in the wet. One of the reasons MT 90's came to mind, they stick like poo to the blanket in the wet.
How do the 700's fair for longevity & wet grip?

Last time I had road biased tires on a trailie they were Avon Gripster's on an XT 350. Oh, the fun I had. Must have been nearly 30 years ago.:blink: Crikey.

oneblackflag
14th March 2014, 16:45
It's 704's that are being replaced, I like em apart from the early retirement. Get it? :facepalm:Sorry.
I have a 705 rear on the TDM which is a sterling tire but huffs occasionally in the wet. One of the reasons MT 90's came to mind, they stick like poo to the blanket in the wet.
How do the 700's fair for longevity & wet grip?

Last time I had road biased tires on a trailie they were Avon Gripster's on an XT 350. Oh, the fun I had. Must have been nearly 30 years ago.:blink: Crikey.

Just replaced a 704 with a 700 700 is better.... Best one I've had on there but I'm a newbie anyway. Looks like I'll double up on k's switching from the 704, dont know about the wet yet but in the dry I've never had the bike right over before now:shit:; grip seems boundless, ok in the gravel if you like to slide around a bit.

The MT90 does look good, might try it next TBO.

george formby
14th March 2014, 17:12
Just replaced a 704 with a 700 700 is better.... Best one I've had on there but I'm a newbie anyway. Looks like I'll double up on k's switching from the 704, dont know about the wet yet but in the dry I've never had the bike right over before now:shit:; grip seems boundless, ok in the gravel if you like to slide around a bit.

The MT90 does look good, might try it next TBO.

I'm still leaning towards the MT 90's. If I put em on I will keep ewes posted. Speaking of gravel & sliding, I gave myself a wee scare this arvo. Rode into lovely deep gravel right in the middle of a downhill hairpin, dry hard pack to deep poo in a blink. Front immediately started to wash out off camber on a moderate throttle:eek5:. It was a win not a bin but bugger me it's hard to grit your teeth & use the throttle when your almost tits up. Gave me a proper flutter.

NordieBoy
14th March 2014, 17:15
It's 704's that are being replaced, I like em apart from the early retirement. Get it? :facepalm:Sorry.
I have a 705 rear on the TDM which is a sterling tire but huffs occasionally in the wet. One of the reasons MT 90's came to mind, they stick like poo to the blanket in the wet.
How do the 700's fair for longevity & wet grip?

Last time I had road biased tires on a trailie they were Avon Gripster's on an XT 350. Oh, the fun I had. Must have been nearly 30 years ago.:blink: Crikey.

705's would be sweet on a little bike.
Not enough power to huff.

george formby
14th March 2014, 17:31
705's would be sweet on a little bike.
Not enough power to huff.

That has crossed my mind but each wee slide has been on minimal throttle. In fairness, think I've mentioned it in the past, it has always been on a sub par surface not decent tar seal, patching, overbanding, white line & possibly diesel. The MT 90 never moved so it's a mental thing for me. Practising braking in the rain was the same result, no probs at the front but relatively easy to lock the rear. Unfair comparison I know, weight bias under brakes etc but I reckon the best tire is the tire you trust.
My G/F rides the DT & she is still a bit vague on her limits, she happily drifted over the Mangamukas in the rain on the 704's thinking nothing was amiss so the whole wet weather thing is a big consideration. It's a bike preservation exercise.

NordieBoy
14th March 2014, 19:49
Pressure could play a part too.
I run 20f/18r on the seal and down to 18f/16r off road on the TT350 (rim lock on the rear).
22f/24r seal and 20f/18r gravel on the DR650.

bart
14th March 2014, 20:40
I run 30 something psi everywhere. Way too much but I never get a flat.

Another thing to take into account is tyre width. No one here mentions width. I’ve found the same tyres in different widths handle totally different. As mentioned earlier, the Kenda k270 can be lethal on seal in the wet because the knobs on the sides flex when leaning it over. I’ve had more then my fair share of butt clenching moments with these tyres...but...this has always been with the 510 width. The 460 actualy behaves itself quite nicely. With the wider tyre, once you start wearing the centre strip it buggers the profile and as you lean, you’re riding on a very narrow band of flexy knobs...or something like that.

I regularly run 110 or 120 width tyres on the DR650. Looks silly, but they work.

pete376403
14th March 2014, 21:15
1've got a 110 Pirelli on the back of the KLR - works fine on the road and in gravel. Doubt if it would be much fun in loose dirt or mud

NordieBoy
14th March 2014, 21:28
The stock rear on the DR is 120 width.
I run 120 on the DR and TT. Cuts through the crap better than a wider tyre.

flashg
15th March 2014, 18:53
On the WR 450 i run MX extra X Pirelli on front 20psi dot approved and ran a motoz tractionator rear on dusty butt less than half worn after 2000 km's also @20psi no flats. On XT 660 tenere i run Dunlop 606 front and back always @25psi no flats yet. I used mt21's on XT fantastic tyre but didn't last very long. 606 last much longer on that bike. Happy with what I'm running now.

10bikekid
15th March 2014, 19:22
On the WR 450 i run MX extra X Pirelli on front 20psi dot approved and ran a motoz tractionator rear on dusty butt less than half worn after 2000 km's also @20psi no flats. On XT 660 tenere i run Dunlop 606 front and back always @25psi no flats yet. I used mt21's on XT fantastic tyre but didn't last very long. 606 last much longer on that bike. Happy with what I'm running now.

I would also vouch for the 606's, Just did a evening ride on the DR with the sports bike and these tires held there own in the dry, mighty impressed I was, sure they walked a bit at higher corning loads but there was still a little left in them if needed and they seem to be wearing ok as well.:Punk:

george formby
15th March 2014, 19:42
Tires, huh? The technical equivalent of herding cats.

Good point with pressures Nordie, I run 33 front 36 rear on the TDM & 28, 32 on the DT. The DT has 1 rim lock front & 2 rear. Potentially it could get all Dougie Lampkin. Moto x front & 4 psi trials rear on the off road wheels..

oneblackflag
15th March 2014, 22:49
With all this pressure talk:

What should I be running front/rear on the wrr, ~70% seal; just a good compromise I dont change the preasures as I ride between surfaces. TKC80 front Shinko 700 rear.

Currently they are near 30psi both... Should I drop to say 25ish?

Also how low till rim locks are needed usually? I ask cause I plan on doing some trail rides soon ( with different knobblier tyres) suggested psi for this situation?

flashg
16th March 2014, 08:35
On my WR i run
20psi everywhere. I'm always worried about pinch flats. But when just trail riding i run 12psi front 14psi rear (with rim locks) can't run those pressures on road ( get to hot) not good. I also run heavy duty tubes. Personally i wouldn't go much below 20psi without rim locks. If running rim locks get wheels balanced for when on the road. Get plastic type rim locks they balance up easier
Gordon

NordieBoy
16th March 2014, 08:46
Good point with pressures Nordie, I run 33 front 36 rear on the TDM & 28, 32 on the DT. The DT has 1 rim lock front & 2 rear. Potentially it could get all Dougie Lampkin. Moto x front & 4 psi trials rear on the off road wheels..

Even on the DR, once the front got up to 24psi it started feeling too hard.

The TT has 1 rim lock on the front and 2 opposed rim locks on the rear of the dirty wheels (Pirelli MT43's at the moment) and the road wheels have 2 rim locks in the rear (not going to bugger about balancing a rim lock on the front).

Woodman
16th March 2014, 08:49
I have never run rimlocks or balanced my wheels. No issues whatsoever.

NordieBoy
16th March 2014, 09:03
With all this pressure talk:

What should I be running front/rear on the wrr, ~70% seal; just a good compromise I dont change the preasures as I ride between surfaces. TKC80 front Shinko 700 rear.

Currently they are near 30psi both... Should I drop to say 25ish?

Also how low till rim locks are needed usually? I ask cause I plan on doing some trail rides soon ( with different knobblier tyres) suggested psi for this situation?

22f/24r would be a good (high) start point.

If you're going to spend a day in the gravel, I'd drop them to 20f/18r and pump them back up when you get home.

(I run the DR in gravel/off road at 20f/18r seal at 22f/24r and get about 12-15,000km from a rear 705 and 22,000+ from the front).

Off road, 18f/16r, with rim locks in the rear.

Once I go below 18psi, then I run rim locks, except for the rear when I would always run them on smaller bikes.

I run a little higher pressure in the front than the rear for protection against rim strikes as the front is much lower volume.

On the MT43 trials tyres, I run 16f/12r.


If you've got rim locks in the rear and get stuck somewhere, don't hesitate to drop the rear pressure to 12psi to get you out.

NordieBoy
16th March 2014, 09:05
I have never run rimlocks or balanced my wheels. No issues whatsoever.

You also run quite high pressures and have a weird propensity toward power sliding the back end...

flashg
16th March 2014, 09:19
My XT has no rim locks and i never balance them, seems nice and smooth on road even @ 180km when playing catch up. Never did balance WR wheel's but did for dusty butt and what a huge difference. Still no Cush drive but much smoother now, stopped all the vibes especially in front end on road at normal speeds.

oneblackflag
16th March 2014, 10:24
22f/24r would be a good (high) start point.

If you're going to spend a day in the gravel, I'd drop them to 20f/18r and pump them back up when you get home.
......
.


Thanks I'll give it a try
:sunny:

Oscar
16th March 2014, 12:36
I was cleaning out the shed this morning and found an old side valve tube.
It must be off my Enduroised YZ250S from the eighties.
It had the first three gears of a Yamaha 250 Trike, lights, weighted flywheel and a hole punched in the sidewall of the rear tyre to accommodate the valve stem at right angles to the tyre.
No rim locks or pins required....

10bikekid
16th March 2014, 15:35
On my WR i run
20psi everywhere. I'm always worried about pinch flats. But when just trail riding i run 12psi front 14psi rear (with rim locks) can't run those pressures on road ( get to hot) not good. I also run heavy duty tubes. Personally i wouldn't go much below 20psi without rim locks. If running rim locks get wheels balanced for when on the road. Get plastic type rim locks they balance up easier
Gordon


22f/24r would be a good (high) start point.

If you're going to spend a day in the gravel, I'd drop them to 20f/18r and pump them back up when you get home.

(I run the DR in gravel/off road at 20f/18r seal at 22f/24r and get about 12-15,000km from a rear 705 and 22,000+ from the front).

Off road, 18f/16r, with rim locks in the rear.

Once I go below 18psi, then I run rim locks, except for the rear when I would always run them on smaller bikes.

I run a little higher pressure in the front than the rear for protection against rim strikes as the front is much lower volume.

On the MT43 trials tyres, I run 16f/12r.


If you've got rim locks in the rear and get stuck somewhere, don't hesitate to drop the rear pressure to 12psi to get you out.

Jeepers smaller bikes must be way different in regard to all this to get reasonable tire wear,:shit: I have to run 32-34F 36-37R on the road and 20-22F 25-28R in the gravel otherwise tires get ripped to shreds, As Nordie says Bit of pressure in the back is good to keep bike loose and steering on the rear without overcoming the front to easy

Have run 12F 12R in sand on DR though must check if it has rim locks

10bikekid
16th March 2014, 15:40
I was cleaning out the shed this morning and found an old side valve tube.
It must be off my Enduroised YZ250S from the eighties.
It had the first three gears of a Yamaha 250 Trike, lights, weighted flywheel and a hole punched in the sidewall of the rear tyre to accommodate the valve stem at right angles to the tyre.
No rim locks or pins required....

Those were the days aye, I still have my four stroke powered YZ250K and PE engined YZ125J around the place gathering dust

10bikekid
16th March 2014, 15:44
With all this pressure talk:

What should I be running front/rear on the wrr, ~70% seal; just a good compromise I dont change the preasures as I ride between surfaces. TKC80 front Shinko 700 rear.

Currently they are near 30psi both... Should I drop to say 25ish?

Also how low till rim locks are needed usually? I ask cause I plan on doing some trail rides soon ( with different knobblier tyres) suggested psi for this situation?

If it were my Wr, I think I'd run similar maybe drop front to 26-28 if I didn't want to change pressures on the run and was looking for a little more front in the gravel

dino3310
16th March 2014, 18:22
Those were the days aye, I still have my four stroke powered YZ250K and PE engined YZ125J around the place gathering dust

pretty sure that 125 could fit in the shed next to the XR

george formby
16th March 2014, 18:31
pretty sure that 125 could fit in the shed next to the XR


:laugh:Gave me pause, too.

Seein as I need new knobs & road(ish) tires I may as well invest in a wee compressor & decent gauge. Plenty of places to experiment round here to find out what works.

10bikekid
16th March 2014, 21:51
pretty sure that 125 could fit in the shed next to the XR

Nay you wouldn't like as its a good old 2 stroke with an old fashion power band, no power then bam,:wings: am working on modernizing it for VMX racing, the new foot pegs are 3x as big as the originals as I found my feet felt like they were going to fall off all the time

Still has original rings and plenty of compression as recon its only done about 30hrs from when I built from new in 1982 :shit:

To make that relevant to the thread it still has a Metzeler 51M famous block tread front tire on it which in the 80's was the tire to have.
294950294951

pete-blen
17th March 2014, 18:10
[QUOTE=10bikekid;1130694131]

To make that relevant to the thread it still has a Metzeler 51M famous block tread front tire on it which in the 80's was the tire to have.
/QUOTE]

My 79 Montesa 125 H6 Enduro still has the Pirelli M25 Pentacross's on it from the factory...
they are still all but new looking but a wee tad on the hard side now....
I surspect the 77 348 Cota MRR had the factory Pirelli's on it also...

10bikekid
17th March 2014, 19:40
[QUOTE=10bikekid;1130694131]

To make that relevant to the thread it still has a Metzeler 51M famous block tread front tire on it which in the 80's was the tire to have.
/QUOTE]

My 79 Montesa 125 H6 Enduro still has the Pirelli M25 Pentacross's on it from the factory...
they are still all but new looking but a wee tad on the hard side now....
I surspect the 77 348 Cota MRR had the factory Pirelli's on it also...

Nice :niceone: At a guess I think the Metzeler is the second one fitted perhaps that was done in the early 90's ? so its still could be 20 years old but it looks new and even softish :confused: (still has reasonable grip judging from the last offroad test run)

oneblackflag
17th March 2014, 23:56
22f/24r would be a good (high) start point.

If you're going to spend a day in the gravel, I'd drop them to 20f/18r and pump them back up when you get home.

(I run the DR in gravel/off road at 20f/18r seal at 22f/24r and get about 12-15,000km from a rear 705 and 22,000+ from the front).

Off road, 18f/16r, with rim locks in the rear.

Once I go below 18psi, then I run rim locks, except for the rear when I would always run them on smaller bikes.

I run a little higher pressure in the front than the rear for protection against rim strikes as the front is much lower volume.

On the MT43 trials tyres, I run 16f/12r.


If you've got rim locks in the rear and get stuck somewhere, don't hesitate to drop the rear pressure to 12psi to get you out.


If it were my Wr, I think I'd run similar maybe drop front to 26-28 if I didn't want to change pressures on the run and was looking for a little more front in the gravel

Went for a ride today with the 22f/24r pressure setup. Definitely has more traction in the gravel, but I almost felt it was to much.... Alot harder to break the rear loose round corners, felt very different, my bike has shit all torque/ power down low... Felt less fun I guess. Not sure whether this is a good or bad thing.

Wasn't bad on road, but felt different... Would have to get used to that.

Think I'll try something more like 10bikekid's recommendation tomorrow, maybe a little lower. 26f/ 28r or 25f/ 27r, that might be the mid ground I'll like for my sort of riding. 30r just seemed a bit too much last time.

Thanks for the input :niceone:

NordieBoy
18th March 2014, 06:12
Just go up a couple in the rear for more rear wheel steering action.

dino3310
18th March 2014, 15:49
Went for a ride today with the 22f/24r pressure setup. Definitely has more traction in the gravel, but I almost felt it was to much.... Alot harder to break the rear loose round corners, felt very different, my bike has shit all torque/ power down low... Felt less fun I guess. Not sure whether this is a good or bad thing.

Wasn't bad on road, but felt different... Would have to get used to that.

Think I'll try something more like 10bikekid's recommendation tomorrow, maybe a little lower. 26f/ 28r or 25f/ 27r, that might be the mid ground I'll like for my sort of riding. 30r just seemed a bit too much last time.

Thanks for the input :niceone:

i always have more air in the front than rear at either 28-26 front and between 24-22 in the rear any higher and i slide to much any softer and to much grip.
off road stuff i chuck the rim lock back in the rear and drop the pressures anywhere between 18 and 10 depending on terrain,
take a pump and guage with you on a ride have a play with the pressures as you ride

flashg
18th March 2014, 18:22
I am "stoked" Today my new rear TKC80 arrived. Friday night at the DB1K my name was drawn as the winner of $200 dollar continental tyre product, after talking with Darbys they agreed to give me a $260 tyre for the 660 tenere. So now when the rear 606 wears out the TKC80 goes on. The new set of 606's in the garage will have to wait. I've never tried these but heard good about them. Someone said to run them @ correct pressure or they wear real fast. Any feedback welcome guys

dino3310
18th March 2014, 19:06
heard of the fronts turning to custard after forgetting to pressure back up for the seal

10bikekid
18th March 2014, 19:06
I am "stoked" Today my new rear TKC80 arrived. Friday night at the DB1K my name was drawn as the winner of $200 dollar continental tyre product, after talking with Darbys they agreed to give me a $260 tyre for the 660 tenere. So now when the rear 606 wears out the TKC80 goes on. The new set of 606's in the garage will have to wait. I've never tried these but heard good about them. Someone said to run them @ correct pressure or they wear real fast. Any feedback welcome guys

Congrates, I'm going to throw the dice at 32psi :wait:

pete-blen
18th March 2014, 19:54
I am "stoked" Today my new rear TKC80 arrived. Friday night at the DB1K my name was drawn as the winner of $200 dollar continental tyre product, after talking with Darbys they agreed to give me a $260 tyre for the 660 tenere. So now when the rear 606 wears out the TKC80 goes on. The new set of 606's in the garage will have to wait. I've never tried these but heard good about them. Someone said to run them @ correct pressure or they wear real fast. Any feedback welcome guys


what dose your yamaha manual say for the Ten..... be a dam good starting point for seal...
low to mid 20s for gravel etc...
yamaha thinks 29psi is the bees knees for the XTR or 32psi two up...

Ps.. I find 8psi in the rear works great....:facepalm:

flashg
18th March 2014, 20:57
what dose your yamaha manual say for the Ten..... be a dam good starting point for seal...
low to mid 20s for gravel etc...
yamaha thinks 29psi is the bees knees for the XTR or 32psi two up...

Ps.. I find 8psi in the rear works great....:facepalm:




Good point Pete, must check although i think its the same as yours from memory. I run the 606's @ 25psi everywhere never seems to bother them.

8psi works well on your rear tyre even on the seal although when you kicked it you swore it was about 20psi

flashg
18th March 2014, 21:13
Just read the manual 30psi front 33psi rear on the seal 29psi front and rear on gravel. Wow that's high maybe I'll try that it might be good

oneblackflag
18th March 2014, 21:23
i always have more air in the front than rear at either 28-26 front and between 24-22 in the rear any higher and i slide to much any softer and to much grip.
off road stuff i chuck the rim lock back in the rear and drop the pressures anywhere between 18 and 10 depending on terrain,
take a pump and guage with you on a ride have a play with the pressures as you ride

Yea will go for a ride and try out different pressures.

I thought I needed lower pressure in front to stop it the rear pushing it out... I guess the different opinions are because of different bikes. Confusing.

oneblackflag
18th March 2014, 21:26
Just read the manual 30psi front 33psi rear on the seal 29psi front and rear on gravel. Wow that's high maybe I'll try that it might be good

Have run between 28 and 30 on my TCK80 front, awsome tyre on seal and gravel, getting good wear too. Just trialing lower pressures now.

10bikekid
18th March 2014, 21:58
For me its the tire wear factor, I run the highest pressures I can ride safely with or pay for it at the tire shop and its pain having to get new tires every other day :(

I pretty much shreaded a half worn rear tire at 25psi on the KTM in about 100ks on the metal and went back to 28psi and a bit less throttle after that :rolleyes:

oneblackflag
18th March 2014, 22:03
For me its the tire wear factor, you run the highest pressures you can ride safely with or pay for it at the tire shop and its pain having to get new tires every other day :(

I pretty much shreaded a Tire a 25psi on the KTM in about 100ks on the metal and went back to 28psi and a bit less throttle after that :rolleyes:

Heard rumors of your throttle happy wrist. Like your style :niceone:

dino3310
19th March 2014, 16:27
Heard rumors of your throttle happy wrist. Like your style :niceone:

plus the extra 100kgs wouldnt help

dino3310
19th March 2014, 16:31
Yea will go for a ride and try out different pressures.

I thought I needed lower pressure in front to stop it the rear pushing it out... I guess the different opinions are because of different bikes. Confusing.

yeah mate..... whats that saying.... different strokes
it will always come down to personal prefrence but theres some common guide lines on here to start from

george formby
19th March 2014, 16:51
yeah mate..... whats that saying.... different strokes
it will always come down to personal prefrence but theres some common guide lines on here to start from

Yup, a good place to start & distinct lack of conspiracy theories. I need to replace tires on both bikes, 3 pairs altogether.:facepalm:
Going to do some fiddling with pressures & take notes of wear, grip etc to maximise all those dollars. Food for thought is nearly as good as food for belly.

10bikekid
19th March 2014, 16:52
plus the extra 100kgs wouldnt help

Are you suggesting Katie is fat :shit:

Oscar
19th March 2014, 18:33
Yup, a good place to start & distinct lack of conspiracy theories. I need to replace tires on both bikes, 3 pairs altogether.:facepalm:
Going to do some fiddling with pressures & take notes of wear, grip etc to maximise all those dollars. Food for thought is nearly as good as food for belly.

I got some old tyres kicking around if ya want.
What sorta bikes we talkin'?

dino3310
19th March 2014, 19:41
Are you suggesting Katie is fat :shit:

well compared to the wr250....... YEAH fat boy:laugh:

10bikekid
19th March 2014, 21:56
:woohoo:
well compared to the wr250....... YEAH fat boy:laugh:

Well I just bought an ADV bike that is lighter than a wr250 so :bleh:

Now I have to figure what tires I'm going to fit and what pressures to run :facepalm:

NordieBoy
20th March 2014, 08:28
:woohoo:

Well I just bought an ADV bike that is lighter than a wr250 so :bleh:

Now I have to figure what tires I'm going to fit and what pressures to run :facepalm:

Zerax would have had to have had one of the lightest adv bikes ever.
KDX125

One of the only bikes to complete the DB1K SBC.

bigboy
22nd March 2014, 18:45
My trailwing tyre has an arrowhead type pattern. Is there a correct way to have the pattern facing when fitted on the wheel.

ie... should the point of the arrow pattern be facing forward or backward ??

Waipukbiker
22nd March 2014, 19:05
Arrow head facing forward for power traction, facing to the rear for braking traction. Facing forward on the rear and facing back on the front.

NordieBoy
22nd March 2014, 19:52
It may also have direction arrows on the sidewall.

10bikekid
23rd March 2014, 12:18
Zerax would have had to have had one of the lightest adv bikes ever.
KDX125

One of the only bikes to complete the DB1K SBC.

I'm thinking the new toy would be within 10kg of that with lets say with a little bit more power, was out today on the metal, using the existing pretty worn 410x 18 at 22psi as a guide line, traction:no: in powerband was close to zero, so am thinking a 120-130/90 18 big block kenda or 606 with 15-20psi might be the go:scratch: (stuff the tire wear, I want to survive scratch free)

NordieBoy
23rd March 2014, 12:53
I'm thinking the new toy would be within 10kg of that with lets say with a little bit more power, was out today on the metal, using the existing pretty worn 410x 18 at 22psi as a guide line, traction:no: in powerband was close to zero, so am thinking a 120-130/90 18 big block kenda or 606 with 15-20psi might be the go:scratch: (stuff the tire wear, I want to survive scratch free)
Not a mighty SMX 50?
<img width=640 src=http://sports.nelson.geek.nz/motorsport/mybikes/Trips/20091114%20Seven%20Summits%20Ride/slides/20091114-102802-0040.jpg>

dino3310
23rd March 2014, 12:56
I'm thinking the new toy would be within 10kg of that with lets say with a little bit more power, was out today on the metal, using the existing pretty worn 410x 18 at 22psi as a guide line, traction:no: in powerband was close to zero, so am thinking a 120-130/90 18 big block kenda or 606 with 15-20psi might be the go:scratch: (stuff the tire wear, I want to survive scratch free)

find an mx mate with a supply of 2nd hand mitchy S12's :msn-wink:

10bikekid
23rd March 2014, 14:02
find an mx mate with a supply of 2nd hand mitchy S12's :msn-wink:

That would be me but am presuming they would be stink on the road, do you think otherwise :corn:

dino3310
23rd March 2014, 14:07
That would be me but am presuming they would be stink on the road, do you think otherwise :corn:

all good just slow down on the corners and dont lean over.
my last KCAR ride was with the s12 rear... BUT it is a MX tire so if ya fall of its your fault for listening to me:innocent:
i grabbed my last 2 for a $1:woohoo:

10bikekid
23rd March 2014, 14:08
Not a mighty SMX 50?


If it is it must have one hell of a port job to produce the near 1000hp per litre it needs :crazy:

10bikekid
23rd March 2014, 14:12
all good just slow down on the corners and dont lean over.
my last KCAR ride was with the s12 rear... BUT it is a MX tire so if ya fall of its your fault for listening to me:innocent:
i grabbed my last 2 for a $1:woohoo:

Tempting at free, but suspect will be a pig on the road and no dot aprovall,;)

will go and pull one out from under the house and consider :wait:

NordieBoy
23rd March 2014, 14:21
If it is it must have one hell of a port job to produce the near 1000hp per litre it needs :crazy:

Ahh, an SMX50 with an Athena 90cc kit...

10bikekid
23rd March 2014, 14:31
Ahh, an SMX50 with an Athena 90cc kit...

Yes that would explain it, were only talking 600hp per litre now, easy :eek:

george formby
23rd March 2014, 14:35
all good just slow down on the corners and dont lean over.
my last KCAR ride was with the s12 rear... BUT it is a MX tire so if ya fall of its your fault for listening to me:innocent:
i grabbed my last 2 for a $1:woohoo:

MX tires leave orsome drifts on tar seal, cool pattern! Slicker than an eel in a bath full of snot in the wet. Recommend incontinence pants.

10bikekid
23rd March 2014, 14:41
MX tires leave orsome drifts on tar seal, cool pattern! Slicker than an eel in a bath full of snot in the wet. Recommend incontinence pants.

That and the fact it would be like completely cheating on the gravel or sand, perhaps a small price to pay for losing all your fillings on the road

Let me see, light switch powerband and wet road with full knobbies, would need someone to follow behind with a shovel :wacko:

george formby
23rd March 2014, 14:52
Let me see, light switch powerband and wet road with full knobbies, would need someone to follow behind with a shovel :wacko:


:laugh:Not quiet a lightning power band, more elastic band, but I had to ride the DT home late at night in torrential rain, 40 km's of gravel & clay through the forest & 20kms of twisty tarmac on MX tires. Headlight is about as much use as the little light on your Casio watch. Less when it's pointing at the scenery.
Lets just say certain moments will remain HD, 3D & 1080 in my memory forever. Never ridden on the road on MX tires since.

gpcustom
23rd March 2014, 17:48
Here was my experience with the K270 rear - even Bart agreed: http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/31920-Tyre-choice-for-adventure-riding-(Mixing-road-and-off-road)?p=1129737158#post1129737158

So I've just been away since Friday putting these tyres to the test.
And I don't find them any different to anything else I've ever had on any of my bikes
No problems on or off road. I'm even considering running them again

bart
23rd March 2014, 20:32
So I've just been away since Friday putting these tyres to the test.
And I don't find them any different to anything else I've ever had on any of my bikes
No problems on or off road. I'm even considering running them again

Put a couple of thou on it, ride in the wet, and get back to me.

gpcustom
24th March 2014, 15:59
Put a couple of thou on it, ride in the wet, and get back to me.

Will do I can't see it making that much difference but will just see how they go.
I also checked out a few reviews and didn't really see any complaints about them

bushy
30th March 2014, 16:42
I have a GN125 powerhouse which will be required to take me over some adventure terrain on a trip coming up that a few of us are doing around the South Island.

The original tyres are shit, much like the bike lol, but this trip isn't about speed, obviously...:drinkup:

Does anyone know of DOT approved knobbly type tyres that I could use to match a 2.75 - 18 front and a 3.50 - 16 rear?

I was wondering if there was a trials type tyre that might do the trick. DOT approved is not a necessity as long as the tread isn't too aggressive.

Cheers

pouakai
30th March 2014, 17:32
I'd guess the only knobbly for 18x2.75 is likely to be a rear. For a 16 then maybe some of the kids or peewee MX bikes have a 16 probably the fronts !

Waipukbiker
30th March 2014, 19:19
Im pretty sure Suzuki are now selling these as farm bikes with mods like tyres, guards, racks and different gearing etc, Prob just putting non DOT knobblies on.

bushy
30th March 2014, 19:32
Im pretty sure Suzuki are now selling these as farm bikes with mods like tyres, guards, racks and different gearing etc, Prob just putting non DOT knobblies on.

Hi yep it looks like some dealers are converting them to farm bikes but looking at the tyres I can see on TM they look too knobbly for road use. Be non DOT for sure I would guess.
Cheers

NordieBoy
30th March 2014, 19:52
I have a GN125 powerhouse which will be required to take me over some adventure terrain on a trip coming up that a few of us are doing around the South Island.

The original tyres are shit, much like the bike lol, but this trip isn't about speed, obviously...:drinkup:

Does anyone know of DOT approved knobbly type tyres that I could use to match a 2.75 - 18 front and a 3.50 - 16 rear?

I was wondering if there was a trials type tyre that might do the trick. DOT approved is not a necessity as long as the tread isn't too aggressive.

Cheers

Shinko 241 rear for the front?

flashg
30th March 2014, 22:40
Hi yep it looks like some dealers are converting them to farm bikes but looking at the tyres I can see on TM they look too knobbly for road use. Be non DOT for sure I would guess.

Cheers

I run pirelli mx extra x on front of my WR, full mx tyre but its dot approved. Can't judge a book by it's cover. Google the manufactures websites for tyre sizes tread and or dot approval. Good luck I'm sure you'll find the tyre's your after.

bushy
31st March 2014, 06:17
Thanks Nordie and Flashg, I like the look of the shinko 241, looks like I can only get in 3.50 18 so might be a tad wide for front? Would that matter too much?

Will sort rear easy enough, not too fussed about going too knobbly on back.
Cheers

NordieBoy
31st March 2014, 07:55
I've got a stash of unused skinny 18" Pirelli's in the Emporium I can have a look through...

bushy
31st March 2014, 09:38
I've got a stash of unused skinny 18" Pirelli's in the Emporium I can have a look through...

Hey Nordie, that would be great if you stumbled upon something better than the standard slick. PM me if you find something in the Emporium, I will sort payment / koha / donation etc

Cheers

oneblackflag
9th April 2014, 07:41
Im going on the 'Mr Motorcycles Charity Ride Waikaretu Apr 13'http://www.silverbullet.co.nz/event.php?id=11080 On the WRR. It looks like may see some rain. I'd be riding there and back about an hour each way (fellow KB has kindly offered fuel at lunch if I need it).

Pretty sure im going to enjoy it and be doing more organized trail rides.

The question about tyres is this… currently I have a TCK80 on the front which I dont think will be knobbly enough... Wanted to get the Pirelli Scorpion Pro but the bike shop has said its being discontinued (from thier supplier anyway). The shop has recommend the MT 21 Rallycross and has one coming in for me to look at. What are peoples opinions on this tyre, will it be aggressive enough for trail rides? The other option is the Michelin Ac10 (may not have one in by the weekend)

I wanted dot tyres because I dont have a trailor to get to the rides... Im assuming if you had a non dot insurance may be an issue if you crashed out on the way?

I have a 1/2 to 2/3rds worn AC 10 for the back, recokon this will do?

Many thanks

:sunny:

NordieBoy
9th April 2014, 08:00
MT21 would be fine unless you're racing. And brilliant on rocks. Reverse it when the trailing edge starts wearing and you'll get lots of use out of it.
I'd run it at about 18-20psi for trail riding.

The worn rear will just make momentum even more important.

oneblackflag
9th April 2014, 09:57
MT21 would be fine unless you're racing. And brilliant on rocks. Reverse it when the trailing edge starts wearing and you'll get lots of use out of it.
I'd run it at about 18-20psi for trail riding.

The worn rear will just make momentum even more important.

Cheers Nordie, you always come up with thes goods.

Just realized the Suzuki Berm Buster is the same weekend, desisions desions.

flashg
9th April 2014, 17:41
MT21 would be fine unless you're racing. And brilliant on rocks. Reverse it when the trailing edge starts wearing and you'll get lots of use out of it.
I'd run it at about 18-20psi for trail riding.

The worn rear will just make momentum even more important.




i agree with NordieBoy MT21 is a great tyre. I run Pirelli MX extra X on front of WR 450 done 4,500 km's now still looking good 30/ road 70/ trail, just another option for future, wouldn't run it on a heavier bike though

Bender
10th May 2014, 11:37
Does anyone have a selection of tyres that they swap (using a tyre machine) for various rides, e.g. really aggressive knobbly for clay, road tyre for road riding?

If so, what tyre machine would you use and or recommend? This is for amateur use not professional.

NordieBoy
10th May 2014, 16:59
Does anyone have a selection of tyres that they swap (using a tyre machine) for various rides, e.g. really aggressive knobbly for clay, road tyre for road riding?

If so, what tyre machine would you use and or recommend? This is for amateur use not professional.

I do like my Torpedo7 one...

$70 at the moment.
https://www.torpedo7.co.nz/products/T7TOTNNTC/title/torpedo7-portable-tyre-changer-with-bead-breaker

Oscar
10th May 2014, 17:09
I do like my Torpedo7 one...

$70 at the moment.
https://www.torpedo7.co.nz/products/T7TOTNNTC/title/torpedo7-portable-tyre-changer-with-bead-breaker

I've got one of those, too.
Very handy.

Bender
11th May 2014, 09:13
That's the ticket.

Many thanks guys.

pete376403
11th May 2014, 10:14
Is the torpedo 7 machine just a bead breaker? I've made one of those, now I'm going to have a try at making one of these.

Motu
11th May 2014, 11:54
I've always used 2 sets of wheels. I've only used professional tyre machines or on the floor with levers.

Bender
11th May 2014, 12:29
Is the torpedo 7 machine just a bead breaker? I've made one of those, now I'm going to have a try at making one of these.


It is but is also a useful tyre holder while you spoon the tyre off the rim.

Motu - getting a second wheel for a DR650 is either horrendously expensive or non-available. Limits you to two tyres as well. With a decent (and not too expensive) tyre machine you could easily throw on a set of road tyres for a weekend ride with road bike mates. Much more flexible.

NordieBoy
11th May 2014, 16:18
Motu - getting a second wheel for a DR650 is either horrendously expensive or non-available. Limits you to two tyres as well. With a decent (and not too expensive) tyre machine you could easily throw on a set of road tyres for a weekend ride with road bike mates. Much more flexible.

I hardly ever use my 2nd set of DR wheels nowdays :confused:

Motu
11th May 2014, 16:31
The DR650 is pretty popular and has been made for a long time, I'd of thought there would be plenty of wheels around. I'll flip tyres over for more traction, or swap my BMW tyres front to rear to balance out wear, but changing tyres just for a ride is a bit extreme - swapping wheels is a piece of piss by comparison. If you want more tyres, you can put another set on your other wheels during the week, come home friday night, swap wheels ready for the weekend.

pomgolian
11th May 2014, 16:59
I did look for a rear 18 inch for my DR after putting a large flat in the original 17 and as i have a few new 18 rear nobbys but they are like rocking horse shit to find, eventually beat out the dent and its still going strong. Other option is to lace on a new 18 inch rim but thats not cheap either.

Motu
11th May 2014, 17:46
I had 17 and 18 rear wheels for my XT600. Going way back to the '70's I had 18 and 19 rears and 19 and 21 fronts for my BSA. Even though the Japanese are much more model specific the the British or Europeans, I'm sure wheels from other Suzuki's will fit a DR. Yamaha always seemed to have a lot of cross pollination.

pete-blen
11th May 2014, 19:02
Directional arrowed tyres..... this quite a good wee read...


http://cyrilhuzeblog.com/2009/08/23/tires-directional-arrows-explained-by-avon-tyres/

R650R
17th May 2014, 18:26
Tired of replacing rear tyres all the time, cheap as they are they don't seem to last. Considering some of the pricier ones like mitas e07 etc that are supposed to last a bit longer.
Seen some heidenaus on TM but bit pricey, whats actually available in NZ at moment and recommended for the DR???

fridayflash
17th May 2014, 19:16
and another tyre question, nordie will know, of the trailwing/deathwing clones out there (kenda k270,shinko e700 etc) which are the best for road and gravel?
ive had trailwings on bikes years ago and they were diabolical, but i now have an xl500s which is to be for roadie use and i want a tyre of that pattern for the rear, looks like i can get a trailwing new for the 23" front which may be the best option there

flashg
17th May 2014, 19:17
Dunlop 606 lasts longest on my XT 660 Tenere as far as knobblys go. When front is half worn i turn it around

fridayflash
17th May 2014, 19:37
Tired of replacing rear tyres all the time, cheap as they are they don't seem to last. Considering some of the pricier ones like mitas e07 etc that are supposed to last a bit longer.
Seen some heidenaus on TM but bit pricey, whats actually available in NZ at moment and recommended for the DR???


what type of tyre are you running at the mo? knobs or more dual purpose?

dino3310
17th May 2014, 19:45
them shinko 244 on bits4bikes are cheap at $114 they last a while on my little piggy, or theres nordies 705s for a little more $$.

rear tires dont last long on thumpers... fact...

Sent from my GT-I9070 using Tapatalk 2

fridayflash
17th May 2014, 20:07
hey dino, would you run a 510/18 on your 600 or a 460/18? 1m still used to thinking along the 110,120,130/18 type sizes

R650R
17th May 2014, 20:25
80/20 style tyres, never found grip to be an issue between brands really. Only real problem is mileage and the blocks splitting on some when abused supermotard style on tarmac :)

Have had Trailwing (ok but wore fast), Shinko golden boy (split knobs badly), Kenda 280 (quite good), Kenda 720 (quite good)...
Care more about mileage than grip.

Metzler sahara endure 3 looks interesting...???

NordieBoy
17th May 2014, 20:27
and another tyre question, nordie will know, of the trailwing/deathwing clones out there (kenda k270,shinko e700 etc) which are the best for road and gravel?
ive had trailwings on bikes years ago and they were diabolical, but i now have an xl500s which is to be for roadie use and i want a tyre of that pattern for the rear, looks like i can get a trailwing new for the 23" front which may be the best option there

Which trailwing? There's a whole range of them. Shinko 244 for more off road bias or 705 for good general purpose and excellent life.

Woodman
17th May 2014, 20:32
Which trailwing? There's a whole range of them. Shinko 244 for more off road bias or 705 for good general purpose and excellent life.

Shinko 700s prob the best compromise tyre I have tried. Wear out fast though.

10bikekid
17th May 2014, 20:46
MT90, big higher powered bike on road, 606 the rest with Kenda Big block front on one, best Grip and value for money Kenda trackmaster (760), worst on road and for wear but boy do they grip offroad
<a href="http://s603.photobucket.com/user/800rider/media/Pictures019_zpsa68f2097.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i603.photobucket.com/albums/tt119/800rider/Pictures019_zpsa68f2097.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo Pictures019_zpsa68f2097.jpg"/></a>

dino3310
17th May 2014, 20:59
hey dino, would you run a 510/18 on your 600 or a 460/18? 1m still used to thinking along the 110,120,130/18 type sizes

510 bro

Sent from my GT-I9070 using Tapatalk 2

fridayflash
17th May 2014, 21:37
Which trailwing? There's a whole range of them. Shinko 244 for more off road bias or 705 for good general purpose and excellent life.

i guess im refering to the traditional tw8/tw9 ones. i can get a tw9 front so want a nice match for the rear shinko 244 looks the part. has amyone tried a kenda k270 rear for price,grip and longevity?

fridayflash
17th May 2014, 22:00
MT90, big higher powered bike on road, 606 the rest with Kenda Big block front on one, best Grip and value for money Kenda trackmaster (760), worst on road and for wear but boy do they grip offroad
<a href="http://s603.photobucket.com/user/800rider/media/Pictures019_zpsa68f2097.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i603.photobucket.com/albums/tt119/800rider/Pictures019_zpsa68f2097.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo Pictures019_zpsa68f2097.jpg"/></a>




i agree with you there 10bikes, k760 is a great offroad tyre, i used to use the dunlop d752 for enduro and trail, then the kenda came out which was a copy but performed as well..and at the time was only $65 when the dunlop was $115. added bonus was the dot legallity of the kenda,onroad the kenda gripped good in the dry..bit different in the wet but not scary. good for about 2000kms. incidentally the xl500s came with a near new k760 on the back, but i want sumthing a bit smoother for road use on the old twin shocker

Waipukbiker
17th May 2014, 22:39
Had a Kenda 761 on the back now for nearly 8,000 kms, still plenty of life in the treads. For some reason the centre of the tyre has a shallower tread so when that wore down I regroved the centre down to match the remaining tread. never been an issue on road and fine on shingle. Prob Only a 90/10 tyre but it suits the type of riding I do. Ive got a Shinko 700 which I put on to do a ride with NGARNZ recently and worked bloody well on wet forestry tracks and shingle, no issues on seal in pouring rain, Faaark it was wet.

fridayflash
18th May 2014, 18:11
i saw that shinko 700 on the back of your kl250 ross, looked good and coped bloody well on our farm trail riding day

pete-blen
18th May 2014, 18:29
2 Dusty's on 700s... will be another set on for next year...
They are a dam good 50/50 all round rubber.. even though
the mud of the Lammermore's had no issue's with traction
or front wash outs..

Waipukbiker
18th May 2014, 19:12
Got one for the DR now Eddie, On that NGARNZ Ride we struck very heavy rain heading back between TeKuiti and Atiamuri and had enough water going across the tar seal to create bow waves in places. No drama at all with the tyres, The 700 worked a treat on wet roads, shingle and on all the forestry tracks we did. Hard to beat for a $100 tyre.
Doing another NGARNZ Ride Easter Friday and Saturday, about 1100 kms over 2 days based in Taupo, They have got access to some more forestry blocks and some big farms in the area. Just changed the front to a TKC 80, The Dunlop 605 had done just on 10,500 kms and still just legal. Been an awesome tyre for general riding but will give the Conti a go.

Waipukbiker
18th May 2014, 19:14
2 Dusty's on 700s... will be another set on for next year...
They are a dam good 50/50 all round rubber.. even though
the mud of the Lammermore's had no issue's with traction
or front wash outs..

Were you running a 700 on the front too Pete?

pete-blen
18th May 2014, 19:44
Were you running a 700 on the front too Pete?

Yes front and rear...

fridayflash
19th May 2014, 12:41
$100 sounds good ross, where do you get 'em?would that be standard retail price?

dino3310
19th May 2014, 15:38
$100 sounds good ross, where do you get 'em?would that be standard retail price?

is that for the 700?

fridayflash
19th May 2014, 19:05
is that for the 700?

sounds like it..just awaiting confirmation from waipukbiker:cool:

pete-blen
19th May 2014, 19:54
sounds like it..just awaiting confirmation from waipukbiker:cool:


http://www.bits4bikes.co.nz/ab4btyres/shinko-dual-sport-tyres/2683.aspx

dino3310
19th May 2014, 20:15
cheap for the 17"

Sent from my GT-I9070 using Tapatalk 2

10bikekid
19th May 2014, 20:46
They don't look very aggressive, and not matching to the off-road grip some are surgesting ? :scratch:

pete-blen
19th May 2014, 21:39
They don't look very aggressive, and not matching to the off-road grip some are surgesting ? :scratch:

they don't do they.... looks can be misleading..
Go for a 704 then... simlar patten but a bit wider spaced...

The 700 is a bit more chunky than they look in the pic on bits4bikes site..
http://i1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg563/petenz1/SAM_0161.jpg (http://s1244.photobucket.com/user/petenz1/media/SAM_0161.jpg.html)

Waipukbiker
20th May 2014, 06:36
Got mine through the local Suzi dealer who Ive been dealing with for many years and they look after me when they can. Its just convenience.
"Grip for Buck" They would be very hard to beat.

dino3310
20th May 2014, 17:44
shit yeah mate, hard to beat for $100

Sent from my GT-I9070 using Tapatalk 2

fridayflash
20th May 2014, 18:18
yep, thats a bloody bargain deal for a 17" shame theyre not that cheep for the 18's i think ill go for a shinko 244 in 460/18 on te xl500

Padmei
20th May 2014, 20:25
How would I get on using these shinko 241 18 inch for front & rear? It's for Berlina so mileage would be bugger all & not after much performance - yo don't need to go fast when parked outside a cafe.

http://www.bits4bikes.co.nz/ab4btyres/shinko-dual-sport-tyres/2698.aspx

10bikekid
20th May 2014, 20:42
Its amazing how the weight of the bike makes such a difference to how aggressive a tire you need to run.

Fitted 606 to RMX (125kg)and there was little difference to my Motocross bike, :woohoo:
<a href="http://s603.photobucket.com/user/800rider/media/Pictures022_zpsd17ec278.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i603.photobucket.com/albums/tt119/800rider/Pictures022_zpsd17ec278.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo Pictures022_zpsd17ec278.jpg"/></a>


but on the DR750 (180kg) it would get stuck quite a bit easier :crazy: (even with the more aggressive Kenda Trackies)
<a href="http://s603.photobucket.com/user/800rider/media/Pictures017.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i603.photobucket.com/albums/tt119/800rider/Pictures017.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo Pictures017.jpg"/></a>

bart
20th May 2014, 20:54
How would I get on using these shinko 241 18 inch for front & rear? It's for Berlina so mileage would be bugger all & not after much performance - yo don't need to go fast when parked outside a cafe.

http://www.bits4bikes.co.nz/ab4btyres/shinko-dual-sport-tyres/2698.aspx

A bit narrow for a fat bike