The dogs' Hornet mods

[Kendog]

So what has improved the gearbox? Mines a bit 'crunchy' sometimes.

I have a feeling the sprocket change made the difference with the gear changing, from what I have read about other people that have done this.

[MotoGirl]

I have a feeling the sprocket change made the difference with the gear changing, from what I have read about other people that have done this.

That's interesting to know as even my VTR always crunched into second gear.

[Kendog]

Went for a ride over the hill last night. This is a different bike now, sooooooo much fun :woohoo:

Smooth, smooth, smooth, the revs roll on without any hesitation. This bike really is a lot of fun to ride!

[gijoe1313]

Went for a ride over the hill last night. This is a different bike now, sooooooo much fun :woohoo:

Smooth, smooth, smooth, the revs roll on without any hesitation. This bike really is a lot of fun to ride!

:oi-grr: and yet you still didn't keep your big ol'hornet ... now that Trudes has gone and done the bizzo, I guess you have the best of both worlds now!

[Warr]

Went for a ride over the hill last night. This is a different bike now, sooooooo much fun :woohoo:

Smooth, smooth, smooth, the revs roll on without any hesitation. This bike really is a lot of fun to ride!
Would be interested to hear if the economy has changed when you are on a trip :)

[Trudes]

Would be interested to hear if the economy has changed when you are on a trip :)

Just buzzing about town and the Rapa (the usual running I do), getting about 10 kms less per tank, so not too bad considering how much more of a thrashing it's getting!! Am finding it is running hotter though, the fan has been getting a work-out.

[twotyred]

so did you go down a tooth on the countershaft sprocket? reason...?

cheers

[Trudes]

Went down a tooth on the front sproket.

[AllanB]

Interested to know why you went down a tooth on the front - most overseas sites go up to lower the open road revs. Have you done it for track riding?
Is yours will be a real rever on the open road now? The response will be a bit nutty now I imagine:crazy: with instant power everywhere!
Monos will be an issue too!

I'd suggest the cleaner gear shifting is due to up-shifting at slightly higher revs (with the new gearing)? I find that modern boxes on the 4's shift better with a few revs - ie short shifting around town can tend to be a bit clunky, through the hills when you are using extra revs :niceone: a lot cleaner.

[Trudes]

Definitely cleaner changing up gears, used to be a bit clunky on the way up, smooth as silk now!
I was told the front was easier and cheaper to do and would do much the same as doing the back, so opted for the front.
Do a bit of track riding (haven't yet since the mod) and can tell already that it's going to make that a whole lot more fun!
It fair pulls along now, just revs out nice and free now, more like riding a sprotsbike instead of a bit of a yawn friendly naked, going up the Rimatakas is a dream, but does like to chug a little when it has to go slow, but I believe the power commander has helped a lot there. It has a super smooth spot at about 6-6.5 thousand revs where it feels like its just floating, beautiful, but then continues to keep pulling and reving after that.
Can you tell I'm extremely pleased with it???

[WickedOne]

Awesome, that just makes me want to go out and get one too!!!! :devil2:

It's great to see the enthusiasm!!!! Enjoy yourself!!!


Definitely cleaner changing up gears, used to be a bit clunky on the way up, smooth as silk now!
I was told the front was easier and cheaper to do and would do much the same as doing the back, so opted for the front.
Do a bit of track riding (haven't yet since the mod) and can tell already that it's going to make that a whole lot more fun!
It fair pulls along now, just revs out nice and free now, more like riding a sprotsbike instead of a bit of a yawn friendly naked, going up the Rimatakas is a dream, but does like to chug a little when it has to go slow, but I believe the power commander has helped a lot there. It has a super smooth spot at about 6-6.5 thousand revs where it feels like its just floating, beautiful, but then continues to keep pulling and reving after that.
Can you tell I'm extremely pleased with it???

[Kendog]

Interested to know why you went down a tooth on the front - most overseas sites go up to lower the open road revs.

That would be a great idea if you like riding lots of long straight roads, and are concerned about your fuel economy.
If you like riding corners, going up and down gears and generally having fun, down one in the front is the way to go :done:

[AllanB]

That would be a great idea if you like riding lots of long straight roads, and are concerned about your fuel economy.



Ha that makes it clear - its primarily American 919 sites going up a cog on the front. I understand that the only place they have corners is on their race tracks, and then they appear to only go one way in a oval :zzzz:

Ordering some new turn signals for my Hornet - the shoe-box sized Honda ones are well...... shoe-boxed sized :eek5:

[Kendog]

Ordering some new turn signals for my Hornet - the shoe-box sized Honda ones are well...... shoe-boxed sized :eek5:

Mirrors and indicators were the first things we changed, then we had caught the bug, the bling bug.

[WickedOne]

I changed to one tooth less on the front about a year ago and yes, it feels like a completely different bike!!!! Never been happier, much more awake and just feels a whole lot more stable coming into corners hotter (mainly due to the better engine breaking I think). I have also put in a K&N air filter and just put in irridium spark plugs which seem to make a considerable difference as well. Next step is Hyperpro front and rear springs and PCIII!!!!! Hell yeah!!! :Punk:

[Trudes]

owwww, more bling (well, ok performance) mod ideas..... sweet, thanks Wicked One!

[Fatjim]

Well I had a ride on Skelstars old Hornet the other day curtesy of Drew, thanks mate.

I was really blown away. With the motocross bars Skelly put on it it felt really light and chuckable. Felt right at home and comfortable enough to try ad chase Deano and Sully up the tuka's.

To be honest, it felt better than than the Svthou, the suspension felt pretty good for a stock Japper for my wieght. The engines kinda flat below 5-6, but it fels more like a timing/fuel issue, than an problem with the engine design.

I might buy one.

[skelstar]

Testify Brother!!!

<img src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/121/314114824_3f416a2297.jpg">

[AllanB]

Anyone know if the Hornet requires a relay change when going to LED indicators? It looks the same as the electronic ones but I am not sure and the label does not confirm this.
Busy tossing up between a LED set or bulb type - decisions, decisions.....
Only hick-up I've noticed with LED is some are not very easy to see in direct sunlight.

[skelstar]

Honda indictor bulbs are about 20W. The Buell ones I put in (on the back) were 10W and would flash fast about 10secs after first turned on (I'm guessing filament resistance drops when it comes up to temp)... I'd say your LEDs will def do the same thing.

[Clean_up]

YAYAYAYAY have just upgraded my lil ol hornet, keeping her though. Just bought a stock standard 2003 900 hornet with 17000 on the clock, pick it up in just over 2 weeks :) MMMMMMMMM got so many things i wanna do to it!!!!!

[TerminalAddict]

niiiicccceeee :)

[pritch]

NIce bike, I still miss mine...

[Kendog]

I sometimes miss my one as well, but I get to ride another one.

My old one (the sexy grey with red wheels) is on the market again.

[AllanB]

I miss mine when I am at work. But there it is in the garage when I get home just waiting for me.

[nzspokes]

Epic dredge.

Anybody else modding these old girls these days?

[Kendog]

Epic dredge.

Anybody else modding these old girls these days?
Only scratches on engine cases :facepalm:

[hayd3n]

vinyl wrapped my hornet :) fitted a 954 taillight
and made my own
screen /
grab rail blanks

[nzspokes]

Ive recently done, Givi crash bars (my god what a difference, bike feels way stiffer but feel heaps more vibes), New springs front and back (again big help), Low mount Yoshi (1000hp on the butt dyno and lighter, bike does feel less top heavy) and new braided lines going on in the weekend.

I do want a power commander.

[AllanB]

Epic dredge.

Anybody else modding these old girls these days?

Heaps done and always planning something.

Cutting some slots into the wee covers by the tank/side covers (hey I may have saved 4 grams!!!!).

I've a fancy looking seat cover on it's way from Hungry or somewhere like that (ebay) - nothing wrong with existing, it is just a bit ...... plain.

[nzspokes]

Heaps done and always planning something.

Cutting some slots into the wee covers by the tank/side covers (hey I may have saved 4 grams!!!!).

I've a fancy looking seat cover on it's way from Hungry or somewhere like that (ebay) - nothing wrong with existing, it is just a bit ...... plain.

I carbon wrapped my motor side covers. I had thought of putting a vent in the LH side cover to give it more air in the inlet. Then I remembered I cant cut a straight line. May drill holes.

[Gremlin]

I do want a power commander.
The last one I remember... the power commander failed after 100,000km odd, and took a lot of time to diagnose it as the fault. The Hornet was perfectly fine after it was removed.

I toll ya before, an I'm gonna tell ya again, don fuck wif 'em. :rolleyes:

[nzspokes]

The last one I remember... the power commander failed after 100,000km odd, and took a lot of time to diagnose it as the fault. The Hornet was perfectly fine after it was removed.

I toll ya before, an I'm gonna tell ya again, don fuck wif 'em. :rolleyes:

100000k? I will take those odds. Still got it? Reckon I can fix it. :headbang:

Seems faults with them trace back to dodgy connections with the loom that should have been soldered not crimp connected.

[Gremlin]

100000k? I will take those odds. Still got it? Reckon I can fix it. :headbang:
Ask Toto, he probably threw it away, I never contemplated doing many mods.

Mine has Ohlins rear shock specc'd to me, Givi crash bars, pannier racks and top box plate and Renthal bars. Mostly practical stuff... Oh, custom exhausts that take the stock heat shields, but perform a bit better.

[nzspokes]

Ask Toto, he probably threw it away, I never contemplated doing many mods.

Mine has Ohlins rear shock specc'd to me, Givi crash bars, pannier racks and top box plate and Renthal bars. Mostly practical stuff... Oh, custom exhausts that take the stock heat shields, but perform a bit better.

I would like an Ohlins for it but a rear shock worth half the value of the bike? A new rear spring for me has done wonders.

Im on the lookout for a pair of forks to see if I can pull the cartridges. I would like to play with the valves.

[Gremlin]

The Hornet suspension really came from the budget bin. Typical with that mid range of bikes for most brands. Hardest part was actually trying to adjust the front to be acceptable with a really nice rear... Initially the front simply turned to mush as it couldn't match the rear. Since it only does city work, I've avoided the temptation to change the front...

The BMW's suspension works much better in that regard, but then for $5000 you'd expect that :crazy:

[nzspokes]

The Hornet suspension really came from the budget bin. Typical with that mid range of bikes for most brands. Hardest part was actually trying to adjust the front to be acceptable with a really nice rear... Initially the front simply turned to mush as it couldn't match the rear. Since it only does city work, I've avoided the temptation to change the front...

The BMW's suspension works much better in that regard, but then for $5000 you'd expect that :crazy:

Have you not done springs in the front?

[Drew]

Power commander is gonna do so little, I never saw the point of putting one in.

The Hornet motors are mechanically limited compared to the CBR that the motor came from. Cams and shit is where the power went.

Open the pipes because they are choked to death, and all other mods should focus on handling and looking cool...And brakes if you really want to spend money.

[Maha]

I remember thinking mmmmmmmmmmmm when Trudes had her Hornet for sale http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/125892-Hornet-900-2005-first-registered-Feb-2006

[nzspokes]

Power commander is gonna do so little, I never saw the point of putting one in.

The Hornet motors are mechanically limited compared to the CBR that the motor came from. Cams and shit is where the power went.

Open the pipes because they are choked to death, and all other mods should focus on handling and looking cool...And brakes if you really want to spend money.

Braded lines going on this weekend.

Power commander wont give it more peak HP but smooth out the mid range. Thry run rich as shit.

[Gremlin]

Have you not done springs in the front?
No, just the limited settings adjusted to suit the rear...

[Tigadee]

My bike has been noticeably jerky at low revs since the exhausts were changed, have learned to live with it, but the time had come to get it sorted.

Hmmmm, much the same for mine... Not a pleasant ride in town.

At least gives me an idea that mine may need some tuning too... Cheers!

[AllanB]

Front springs from Robert T are a couple of hundred. $30 for some fresh oil. Easy DIY job if you are paying attention. Well worth the spend.

[nzspokes]

No, just the limited settings adjusted to suit the rear...

Easy 1 to 2 hour job. Reduce air gap at top to help bottom out.

[nzspokes]

So new braided stainless lines will go on over the weekend. Maybe paint the fork clamp.

Fun times.

[hayd3n]

painting my gear shifter and brake lever this weekend . trying to convince my m8 to sell me his hornet cup rear sets :) and spare braided lines

[hayd3n]

should have some rearsets in a couple of weeks , anyone keen for me to get some cnced?

[nzspokes]

should have some rearsets in a couple of weeks , anyone keen for me to get some cnced?

Could be, got pics?

Did me braided brake lines, fark that was worth doing. Nice and firm brakes front and rear now. Took time to clean my calipers. Got a tip to hit them with alcohol and a dish scrubber. They is like new shiny gold.

[hayd3n]

like this http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/dd493/acb_1000/IMG_5647.jpg
ppl would havt o get their own pegs and spacers . but easy things to make / get froma hardware store,
the factory brake lever and shifter are used
, not sure if they the same on the 900 i have a 99 600 :)

[nzspokes]

like this http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/dd493/acb_1000/IMG_5647.jpg
ppl would havt o get their own pegs and spacers . but easy things to make / get froma hardware store,
the factory brake lever and shifter are used
, not sure if they the same on the 900 i have a 99 600 :)

Just realized I may need my pillion pegs. This will stop them. They are part of the stock rearsets.

[hayd3n]

Just realized I may need my pillion pegs. This will stop them. They are part of the stock rearsets.

pilliion?? tell her to get her own bike :)

[nzspokes]

Fitted a DB killer today. Bike runs better. More low down. Hmmmm

Also fitted riser blocks on the bars, much better for me old wrists. And got a cable lube tool and did my clutch cable, shit its heaps lighter to use.

Doing a 700k ride on Sunday. :niceone:

[hayd3n]

you can get these to raise ur current rearsets :) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Arretratori-Rearset-Honda-Hornet-600-900-1998-2006-/261284071892?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&nma=true&si=LnDDuWIr2v6GOVl%252BszmthrPZoC8%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc

[nzspokes]

you can get these to raise ur current rearsets :) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Arretratori-Rearset-Honda-Hornet-600-900-1998-2006-/261284071892?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&nma=true&si=LnDDuWIr2v6GOVl%252BszmthrPZoC8%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc

Yes, but my exhaust is now attached to my stock ones. But we will see what I think of its position after 700ks tomorrow.

Have new mods planned. :shifty:

[Drew]

Yes, but my exhaust is now attached to my stock ones. But we will see what I think of its position after 700ks tomorrow.

Have new mods planned. :shifty:Who's bright idea was that? Doesn't your foot get buzzed something fierce?

[AllanB]

I made mine lighter yesterday. I rode it thus reducing rubber and fuel weight. I did not notice the difference though .......

My new seat cover arrived from Poland last week, alas it appears the sewing machine ran out of thread on one of the seams ......

A e-mail to the seller with photos very quickly sorted it out and a new one is one it's way already. Provided it arrives (and is OK) that's a good Ebay seller story.

The seller wanted a photo of the back of the cover as it has writing on it denoting who made it and presumably who quality checked it - he confirmed the latter was missed off in this instance. It does concern me that I may have either had some poor Polish person fired or even shot for f-ing up the first effort!

[AllanB]

I'm also going to throw on the new pair of T30's sitting in my shed. The Conti RA2's are near the last 1000 and starting to handle oddly - the rear has squared off a bit and the front triangle up on the edge sections. You can feel the 'roll' over the back and then the dive in the front!!!!!!

[nzspokes]

Who's bright idea was that? Doesn't your foot get buzzed something fierce?

Not at all.

[98tls]

I'm also going to throw on the new pair of T30's sitting in my shed. The Conti RA2's are near the last 1000 and starting to handle oddly - the rear has squared off a bit and the front triangle up on the edge sections. You can feel the 'roll' over the back and then the dive in the front!!!!!!

Buy some lighter rims A,yea there expensive but if you buy them overseas at a decent price you can flick therm off later here and come out even.Got those Carrozzerias for about $1500 cheaper than i could have bought them here.

[nzspokes]

pilliion?? tell her to get her own bike :)

She did, she had a wee off and it will be a while before she can ride again if ever.

[nzspokes]

Fixed a bad fuse connection that kept shutting down my hot grips. And have run my Scott oiler so it goes on the front sprocket.

[Maha]

She did, she had a wee off and it will be a while before she can ride again if ever.

No reason as to why you can't take her as a pillion at some stage though?

[nzspokes]

No reason as to why you can't take her as a pillion at some stage though?

If she can get on the back of a bike then she would be able to ride. Injuries at the moment dont allow that. We cant have a fall or sharp movement of any kind until all her fractures knit. That could be 5 years.

[nzspokes]

Looks like Im due a chain soon so may go to a 520 conversion. Scott oiler works very well on the front sprocket.

[Drew]

Looks like Im due a chain soon so may go to a 520 conversion. Scott oiler works very well on the front sprocket.
Don't cheap out on the sprockets. Trust me.

[nzspokes]

Don't cheap out on the sprockets. Trust me.

I can get some out of the US but was thinking of trying to get some here. Will have to investigate what sprockets will work I guess. The guy in the US has heaps of options. 17/44 seems to be the magic ratio from what Ive read. But I like my 17/44 as it brings the revs down at 100k but I still have good pickup.

[98tls]

Don't cheap out on the sprockets. Trust me.

Supersprox On its second chain,simply will not wear out,really are good kit...

[Drew]

I can get some out of the US but was thinking of trying to get some here. Will have to investigate what sprockets will work I guess. The guy in the US has heaps of options. 17/44 seems to be the magic ratio from what Ive read. But I like my 17/44 as it brings the revs down at 100k but I still have good pickup.520 is the same pitch as 525. So whatever you're happy with now, is what you go for in the change...Unless the Hornet runs 530 chain, but I don't think so.


Supersprox On its second chain,simply will not wear out,really are good kit...How long did the chain last?

[nzspokes]

Supersprox On its second chain,simply will not wear out,really are good kit...

Are they sold local or import?

[nzspokes]

520 is the same pitch as 525. So whatever you're happy with now, is what you go for in the change...Unless the Hornet runs 530 chain, but I don't think so.

Yar they be 530 stock.

[Drew]

Yar they be 530 stock.Thinking about it, that shouldn't matter. The same number of teeth, represent the same ratio nomatter of chain pitch.

[98tls]

520 is the same pitch as 525. So whatever you're happy with now, is what you go for in the change...Unless the Hornet runs 530 chain, but I don't think so.

How long did the chain last?

Twas that long ago i cant remember mate,plenty anyway and was well shagged when i ditched it.

[98tls]

Are they sold local or import?

I got the guy i bought my rims off to pick me one up in the states and send it with the rims and a high end chain,no idea if anyone does them here.They are expensive but quality stuff,its only a sprocket but they manage to make em look pretty:laugh:

[AllanB]

28,000 and still on the stock chain and sprockets. I do lube it a lot and clean the chain about 3 times a year to rid it of 'grinding paste'.

If you get a supersprox can you weigh it - I read somewhere that they weigh the same as a stock Honda steel sprocket, which is odd given the alloy centre. They do look Purdy!

[hayd3n]

new graphics288219288220288221

[98tls]

new graphics

Thats pretty cool,nice job.

[nzspokes]

Looking sharp. :cool:

[hayd3n]

still waiting for my rearsets and braided lines

[nzspokes]

still waiting for my rearsets and braided lines

Did my braided lines a while back. Big improvement.

Photo for the sake of a photo.

[hayd3n]

quite like the crash guard :)

[Tigadee]

new graphics

Sweeeeeeeet!

[nzspokes]

Ive been rocking this mod for a while. Running my Scott oiler to my front sprocket. Works well.

[Kendog]

Ive been rocking this mod for a while. Running my Scott oiler to my front sprocket. Works well.
That is smart.

[nzspokes]

I dont like the rear mount system, to messy. The bit of black tube I used is the spare vacuum tube you get with the kit. My Scottoiler is mounted using the battery strap.

[Kendog]

I dont like the rear mount system, to messy. The bit of black tube I used is the spare vacuum tube you get with the kit. My Scottoiler is mounted using the battery strap.
I agree, had one fitted to the rear of my cbr many years ago.
That looks a lot better.

[Warr]

Ive been rocking this mod for a while. Running my Scott oiler to my front sprocket. Works well.
What was your intended destination of the tube .. the outside surface of the front sprocket .. Yes ?

[nzspokes]

What was your intended destination of the tube .. the outside surface of the front sprocket .. Yes ?

Yes, thats where it goes.

[hayd3n]

score some old incomplete hornet cup rearsets they were bent and seized and missing the spacers / brake lever mount , nothing a decent hammer couldent fix
also fitted some hel brake lines front and rear,
just awaiting the rear brake switch :)
290618
290615290616290617

[nzspokes]

Sweet. Feel better with the pegs back there?

Im getting some Thar Bars for mine in a week or two.

[hayd3n]

Sweet. Feel better with the pegs back there?

Im getting some Thar Bars for mine in a week or two.

yes more hooliginism , just need to machine some wider pegs these racing pags are a little narrow for me

[nzspokes]

yes more hooliginism , just need to machine some wider pegs these racing pags are a little narrow for me

Im thinking rearsets but my pipe mounts of the pillion peg area.

[Drew]

Kill two birds with one stone, and replace the rear shock instead.

More deck height, and better handling.

[nzspokes]

Kill two birds with one stone, and replace the rear shock instead.

More deck height, and better handling.

It handles much better with the right spring in it. Not perfect but heaps better. No Im not going to put an Ohlins in it. I may find something else one day. But dropping $1500 on a rear shock on a 4k bike seems silly.

My handling will improve with me up skilling and getting my bars where I want them. Oh and Im trying to make mounts for my Ohlins steering damper.

[Drew]

Oh and Im trying to make mounts for my Ohlins steering damper.
In all the time I thrashed the living shit out of my Hornet, I cannot think of a single time it shook it's head. Why are you putting on a steering damper.

[nzspokes]

In all the time I thrashed the living shit out of my Hornet, I cannot think of a single time it shook it's head. Why are you putting on a steering damper.

I have a tremor, like a Parkinson's one. Not as bad and not going to kill me. But when Im at speed I can induce a small wobble.

Im changing to Thar bars to get my bars as narrow as possible, this reduces my small inputs and a damper for just in case. No the bike is very stable. Im not....

[Drew]

I have a tremor, like a Parkinson's one. Not as bad and not going to kill me. But when Im at speed I can induce a small wobble.

Im changing to Thar bars to get my bars as narrow as possible, this reduces my small inputs and a damper for just in case. No the bike is very stable. Im not....

Checked everything that moves? Wheel bearings, swing arm bushes/bearings, steering head bearings, fork tube bushes?

Anyone of those will cause a wobble, but for you to not have had it turn into something violent, I doubt it's a geometry issue requiring a steering damper. Which is not a fix, it is a mask. The original problem is still present.

[nzspokes]

Checked everything that moves? Wheel bearings, swing arm bushes/bearings, steering head bearings, fork tube bushes?

Anyone of those will cause a wobble, but for you to not have had it turn into something violent, I doubt it's a geometry issue requiring a steering damper. Which is not a fix, it is a mask. The original problem is still present.

No it is me. When I was younger I would crash bicycle because of it. Every now and then the Hornet will wobble a bit at speed. I have learned to get very light on the bars and it goes away. The damper is more of a mental thing to think it will help if needed. Narrow bars to help my movements from upsetting the bike. Ive gone from wide bars to bit narrower an the improvement is marked.

[Ocean1]

Checked everything that moves? Wheel bearings, swing arm bushes/bearings, steering head bearings, fork tube bushes?

... Tyre?

On at least one street bike I've had a noticeable headshake tendency completely disappear on replacing the front tyre.

Wasn't even fukd for shape.

[nzspokes]

... Tyre?

On at least one street bike I've had a noticeable headshake tendency completely disappear on replacing the front tyre.

Wasn't even fukd for shape.

Yeah I had that on my Bandit, different thing. tyres on the Hornet are young as yet.

[Drew]

No it is me. When I was younger I would crash bicycle because of it. Every now and then the Hornet will wobble a bit at speed. I have learned to get very light on the bars and it goes away. The damper is more of a mental thing to think it will help if needed. Narrow bars to help my movements from upsetting the bike. Ive gone from wide bars to bit narrower an the improvement is marked.That's pretty weird man. LOL.

[nzspokes]

That's pretty weird man. LOL.

Well I can stop my tremor, large amounts of rum does it. :banana:

But then riding a motorcycle may not be my next best step.:eek5:

I have chosen not to be a brain surgeon.

[hayd3n]

sounds like asuspension or bearing problem to me , i was gettign similar problems with my 600 repolaced the fork oill . seals. front springs and wheel/steering bearings + rear shock
and its great now, and that with ultra low/wide bars

[nzspokes]

sounds like asuspension or bearing problem to me , i was gettign similar problems with my 600 repolaced the fork oill . seals. and wheel/steering bearings + rear shock
and its great now, and that with ultra low/wide bars

Its not the bike. unless all my bicycles and motorcycles have had exactly the same fault. I get a little wobble at 160, I release the bars and the bike comes straight.

[Ocean1]

Its not the bike. unless all my bicycles and motorcycles have had exactly the same fault. I get a little wobble at 160, I release the bars and the bike comes straight.

Does it happen when you're driving a car?

If not it's the bike. Some are just too sensitive to rider input, and you can tune a lot of that out.

[nzspokes]

Does it happen when you're driving a car?

If not it's the bike. Some are just too sensitive to rider input, and you can tune a lot of that out.

No, not in the car. well it could be but small movements wont set up a wobble.

Thats why im setting it up with narrow bars and a damper. Narrower bars its got on help a lot.

[Ocean1]

No, not in the car. well it could be but small movements wont set up a wobble.

Thats why im setting it up with narrow bars and a damper. Narrower bars its got on help a lot.

Fair enough. Have you tried lifting the front on the forks, or dropping the rear sag a bit?

[nzspokes]

Just to show the old Hornet 900 can get along ok.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=C8pGhYOsBYU

[mathornet]

Mods are only mirrors XD
290830

290828
290829

[nzspokes]

Mods are only mirrors XD


Those mirrors are nice, can you see well out of them?

Did the watch come with the bike?

I think I know this bike.......

[hayd3n]

fitted a hydraulic rear brake switch

[nzspokes]

fitted a hydraulic rear brake switch

Oh, where did you get it? easy to fit?

Pics needed.

[pritch]

At one point Robert mentioned to me that Ohlins were doing a basic shock for about a thousand. Normal quality but less adjustments. Then again, if he builds it for you it won't need much adjustment.

I bought my Ohlins off Tardme and have had it rebuilt to fit each subsequent bike. Not cheap exactly but a lot less than buying a new one each time.

The difference the Ohlins made to the Hornet was a revelation. Without incriminating myself, there is a road I've mentioned on KB previously, a road less travelled, a road therefore less maintained. A road also less patrolled. The bumps had the 919 leaping all over the road, this definitely put a limit on the velocity I was prepared to travel at. Say a bit less than warp factor 2?

With no other mod, once the Ohlins was fitted the bike just tracked straight as a die, there was no limit imposed by the bike, it's handling, or the road surface.

Keep an eye on Tardme?

[hayd3n]

Oh, where did you get it? easy to fit?

Pics needed.
ebay china $15 delivered , no harder than replacing a brake hose bolt and crimping some terminals on

[mathornet]

Those mirrors are nice, can you see well out of them?

Did the watch come with the bike?

I think I know this bike.......

Yes perfect vision..
Nope but it was black at first. I got a better watch to replace it :)
You probably met the bike!!

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk

[nzspokes]

Yes perfect vision..
Nope but it was black at first. I got a better watch to replace it :)
You probably met the bike!!

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk

Did it have KB stickers on the swing arm. If so youve got a great bike.

[nzspokes]

At one point Robert mentioned to me that Ohlins were doing a basic shock for about a thousand. Normal quality but less adjustments. Then again, if he builds it for you it won't need much adjustment.

I bought my Ohlins off Tardme and have had it rebuilt to fit each subsequent bike. Not cheap exactly but a lot less than buying a new one each time.

The difference the Ohlins made to the Hornet was a revelation. Without incriminating myself, there is a road I've mentioned on KB previously, a road less travelled, a road therefore less maintained. A road also less patrolled. The bumps had the 919 leaping all over the road, this definitely put a limit on the velocity I was prepared to travel at. Say a bit less than warp factor 2?

With no other mod, once the Ohlins was fitted the bike just tracked straight as a die, there was no limit imposed by the bike, it's handling, or the road surface.

Keep an eye on Tardme?

Best thing I did was a 1000lb spring on the stock shock. They come very undersprung. New spring settled it right down.

[nzspokes]

ebay china $15 delivered , no harder than replacing a brake hose bolt and crimping some terminals on

Need a pic....

[mathornet]

Did it have KB stickers on the swing arm. If so youve got a great bike.

Its super great!yeah i know! I talked to miked400! But the owner before me did not really took care of the bike maintainence wise. Carbs were overflowing and unbalanced, and etc... took it to the mechanic, spent a bit of moolah. And now its running like a dream!
A very exceptional bike it is!
And i changed the sticker!!
290850

[nzspokes]

Its super great!yeah i know! I talked to miked400! But the owner before me did not really took care of the bike maintainence wise. Carbs were overflowing and unbalanced, and etc... took it to the mechanic, spent a bit of moolah. And now its running like a dream!
A very exceptional bike it is!
And i changed the sticker!!
290850

It was great when he sold it. I rode it the day before it sold. First bike I went over a 100mph on.

Look after it, it will love you long time. Its the only 250 I would be happy to own now.

[mathornet]

It was great when he sold it. I rode it the day before it sold. First bike I went over a 100mph on.

Look after it, it will love you long time. Its the only 250 I would be happy to own now.

Yeah I reckon im taking care of it really well. Toothbrush it every week :) but theres permanent dirt at certain spots which I cant get out. Always use brake cleaner to clean brakes and clean them dirt under the shocks.. but overall I guess its in good condition. Trying to keep it original.. do you know where I can get a crash knob for it?

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk

[nzspokes]

Yeah I reckon im taking care of it really well. Toothbrush it every week :) but theres permanent dirt at certain spots which I cant get out. Always use brake cleaner to clean brakes and clean them dirt under the shocks.. but overall I guess its in good condition. Trying to keep it original.. do you know where I can get a crash knob for it?

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk

E-mail Richard at Motoone, he may be able to find or make something up for you.

I would like to strip my 900 down just to clean it.

[nzspokes]

Fitted a CBR600 F3 rear axle today. Hollow and saved 320 grams. Bit pointless but something to do.

[AllanB]

Finally put my new seat cover on - spiffy.

Oh and I have a top triple tree project on the go. Purchase a spare one some time back off TM - trimmed off the bar mounts and I've had them welded up. The plan is to drill them for fat bar risers and run a, well, fat bar. Yeah could have used adaptors but they are not as spiffy.....

Or I could now grind the top surface flat, repaint and run riser clip-ons ......... hmmm

[nzspokes]

Finally put my new seat cover on - spiffy.

Oh and I have a top triple tree project on the go. Purchase a spare one some time back off TM - trimmed off the bar mounts and I've had them welded up. The plan is to drill them for fat bar risers and run a, well, fat bar. Yeah could have used adaptors but they are not as spiffy.....

Or I could now grind the top surface flat, repaint and run riser clip-ons ......... hmmm

You mean like this? Its so easy its stupid. I would be doing it but have gone down the Thar bars route.

What cover for the seat did you get?

[nzspokes]

Finally put my new seat cover on - spiffy.



Just saw it on TM, Nice. I want it.

[AllanB]

Concept is the same for the top tree but I'd be mounting the clip-ons under the tree - get ones with risers. That example has the forks slid way too far up the clamps must be a good 30mm!!! Be surprised if the front guard does not meet the radiator and the handling would be significantly changed.

Yep - 'second' cover on TM. Cheap as chips if you don't mind a fiddle getting the stitching completed.

[nzspokes]

Concept is the same for the top tree but I'd be mounting the clip-ons under the tree - get ones with risers. That example has the forks slid way too far up the clamps must be a good 30mm!!! Be surprised if the front guard does not meet the radiator and the handling would be significantly changed.

Yep - 'second' cover on TM. Cheap as chips if you don't mind a fiddle getting the stitching completed.

No, you can still go on top with the stock fork at stock height. Look the same as the photo without the geometry change. You can extend the Hornet fork internally with little trouble. I would never do it pulling 30mm through the forks.

I was very close to doing it but wanted some adjustability.

[Drew]

No, you can still go on top with the stock fork at stock height. Look the same as the photo without the geometry change. You can extend the Hornet fork internally with little trouble. I would never do it pulling 30mm through the forks.

I was very close to doing it but wanted some adjustability.This extending, does it require new staunchins or tubes? Because losing 30mm of overlap between the two is just asking to have the front wheel part compnay with the bike I reckon.

[nzspokes]

This extending, does it require new staunchins or tubes? Because losing 30mm of overlap between the two is just asking to have the front wheel part compnay with the bike I reckon.

Ive read a couple of guys in the US have set them up as adventure bikes so have put 40mm spacers under the cartridge. They say they have measured it all up and the tube is more than long enough. Only read a little about one but the other does a lot of miles on the bike and hes not dead yet.

[nzspokes]

So for this week ive fitted spools and some adjustable bars. :banana:

[speeding_ant]

So for this week ive fitted spools and some adjustable bars. :banana:

How'd you fit the spools? This is something I'd like to do for mine.

[nzspokes]

How'd you fit the spools? This is something I'd like to do for mine.

Drill and tap. The swing arm is think enough for it. The bolts are under shear load so they are fine.

[nzspokes]

So today shortened chain and fitted 15t front sprocket.

And want to make this......

[nzspokes]

On interesting mods, these guys rebuild the rear shocks and fit F4I cans to them to give low speed compression adjustability. They fit high flow pistons as well. A guy in the US got one done for $305usd.

http://www.daughertymotorsports.com/

Very interesting. Im going to e-mail them and see if I can just buy the parts as sending my shock there and back would cost to much.

[AllanB]

For the $ you may be better off looking here - by the time the VAT is removed it prob covers half the shipping.

http://www.hagon-shocks.co.uk/catalog/partdetail.aspx?partno=M61099

Or contact RT for some Swedish Gold like I did a couple years back.:sunny:

[nzspokes]

For the $ you may be better off looking here - by the time the VAT is removed it prob covers half the shipping.

http://www.hagon-shocks.co.uk/catalog/partdetail.aspx?partno=M61099

Or contact RT for some Swedish Gold like I did a couple years back.:sunny:

Hagon are emulsion shocks so as they heat they cavitate.

Ohlins is way to much on a cheap bike.

[gijoe1313]

Hahah! Ask Gremlin about Ohlins on Hornets as being the dog's bollocks! :msn-wink: But then, Gremlin and anything techy is par for the course!

[AllanB]

Hagon are emulsion shocks so as they heat they cavitate.

Ohlins is way to much on a cheap bike.

Depends on lots of factors.

It's only a cheap bike if you can afford another - I can't so it's worth to me is the equivalent of what I'd have to pay to replace it with a immaculate example loaded with all the same goodies .......... feck if I was replacing I'd be looking at different options too - I'd like to naked a lateish model sport bike, or modify a Bonnie (I know they are caulk and cheese!). Ha the Bonnie would cost me pretty - wider rims for sportier rubber, suspension then cosmetics ...........

I knew baring a lotto win or a inheritance the Hornet will be in my garage for some years so the grand on the rear shock was good value. Plus the big O has very good resale value and depending on the 'replacement' bike it could be modified by RT to suit another.

Also once I'd replace the stock fork springs with Ohlins and fresh oil the short comings of the standard rear shock became intolerable. I looked around the net - there are options around ex Europe that depending on the exchange rate are attractive and would no doubt be a lot better than the stocker but RT built up the unit based on my specs etc offers servicing and backup and effectively 'correction' if I was not happy with the set up. It arrived set where he estimated a good starting point and bugger me it was spot on - I tweaked and adjusted to experiment but ended up set exactly how it arrived.

I'd state that the stock shock has inbuilt limitations that will always restrict it from being more than 'adequate' - same as a SV1000 unit or bikes built to a similar price point. Starting with a better unit from a different Honda makes sense and some of the sportier units are very re-buildable.

I'd be inclined to drop a e-mail to Mr Taylor as he is a walking hard drive of suspension info and may know what ones are worth considering modifying. Plus he is surprising willing to offer advise and info on his favourite subject.

[AllanB]

Couple goodies I've made for the 900.

Poor man's rear-sets - adaptor to move the stock peg holders back 35 up 5mm. Started as wooden masters sand cast and cleaned up. Work a treat.

Cover for the rear master cylinder. Bling really.

[nzspokes]

I'd state that the stock shock has inbuilt limitations that will always restrict it from being more than 'adequate' - same as a SV1000 unit or bikes built to a similar price point. Starting with a better unit from a different Honda makes sense and some of the sportier units are very re-buildable.

I'd be inclined to drop a e-mail to Mr Taylor as he is a walking hard drive of suspension info and may know what ones are worth considering modifying. Plus he is surprising willing to offer advise and info on his favourite subject.

Apart from the pistons what is holding it back?

[nzspokes]

Couple goodies I've made for the 900.

Poor man's rear-sets - adaptor to move the stock peg holders back 35 up 5mm. Started as wooden masters sand cast and cleaned up. Work a treat.

Cover for the rear master cylinder. Bling really.

Thats very nicely done.

[HenryDorsetCase]

I have a Hornet shop manual (Honda) one and a disc containing the pdf file if anyone wants it. I printed it out at work and it fills an A4 Eastlight folder.

If anyone wants to come get it from me it is here. If no takers it is going in the recycle bin.

I also have a tail tidy for a Hornet I found in my garage if anyone wants to make me an offer.

[nzspokes]

I have a Hornet shop manual (Honda) one and a disc containing the pdf file if anyone wants it. I printed it out at work and it fills an A4 Eastlight folder.

If anyone wants to come get it from me it is here. If no takers it is going in the recycle bin.

I also have a tail tidy for a Hornet I found in my garage if anyone wants to make me an offer.

I would like the printed copy, the the cost of the ride there may make it uneconomic.

[Gremlin]

Hagon are emulsion shocks so as they heat they cavitate.

Ohlins is way to much on a cheap bike.
Honestly, you look to spend all this time and money on crap like engine mods to make it faster, when you're starting trackdays in Group 1.

A mate has circulated on a standard-engined CB900 in group 3 just fine. Decent suspension and wide bars are really the only requirements to turn the bike into a sweet road ride. You get better handling and better tyre life as a result, so it's not just the cost of suspension. As said, the suspension can also be on-sold and the bike returned to stock, should you wish, it can be serviced, and also traded or modified should you change bikes (thinking of Ohlins for all the options). There are other cheaper options, but in my mind, they're cheaper for a reason. Flexibility like servicing, support etc etc vary as well, but totally agree anything would be better than the stock stuff.

Power? Pulls wheelies just fine in first, and tops out around 200 (some say they've had more, but the weave got really unnerving at that point) which is more than enough.

Sorry to be blunt, but figured someone had to say it. The bikes are also really reliable when left alone, I can't think of a single 900 I know of, that gets a harder life than mine, so messing with it doesn't make much sense to me.

[nzspokes]

Honestly, you look to spend all this time and money on crap like engine mods to make it faster, when you're starting trackdays in Group 1.

A mate has circulated on a standard-engined CB900 in group 3 just fine. Decent suspension and wide bars are really the only requirements to turn the bike into a sweet road ride. You get better handling and better tyre life as a result, so it's not just the cost of suspension. As said, the suspension can also be on-sold and the bike returned to stock, should you wish, it can be serviced, and also traded or modified should you change bikes (thinking of Ohlins for all the options). There are other cheaper options, but in my mind, they're cheaper for a reason. Flexibility like servicing, support etc etc vary as well, but totally agree anything would be better than the stock stuff.

Power? Pulls wheelies just fine in first, and tops out around 200 (some say they've had more, but the weave got really unnerving at that point) which is more than enough.

Sorry to be blunt, but figured someone had to say it. The bikes are also really reliable when left alone, I can't think of a single 900 I know of, that gets a harder life than mine, so messing with it doesn't make much sense to me.

You have to start track days in group one. Ive only done one.

Ive not done much for power as yet due to there is not much there to be found. I may go cams, porting and Fireblade throttle bodys if I can get some at the right price. All I have done for power is basic stuff. Biggest issue with power on them is rubbish fueling. Have been speaking to a guy in the US about a PC for it, when people speak of them failing it would seem to be due to spikes from dead rectifiers or plane bad wiring.

I don't have $2k to drop on an Ohlins. So I will mod a stock shock. How hard can it be? :laugh:

Biggest improvement in the bike I have found is narrower and much lower bars and lifting the pegs. I can now work the bike much harder. That's for me though, may not work for others.

Why do I do it? Because I can. Why did I fit a 351 Windsor to a perfectly good Mk2 Cortina? Because I could. Why did I fit a Falcon IL6 to a Mk2 Landrover then end for end it? Because I could.

Reliability wise the bike has had its issues. Clutch cable, wheel bearings in the back, sticky indicator switch and the Hornet headlight that comes on when it pleases. None to do with mods.

[Kendog]

Reliability wise the bike has had its issues. Clutch cable, wheel bearings in the back, sticky indicator switch and the Hornet headlight that comes on when it pleases. None to do with mods.
Interesting, I have had clutch cable and sticky indicator problems as well.

[nzspokes]

Interesting, I have had clutch cable and sticky indicator problems as well.

Common issue with Hornets, well cables are a given. Indicator was dried up grease on the switch which a shot of brake clean sorted. Brake clean also fixed the headlight which was the starter button needing a clean.

[Gremlin]

Interesting, I have had clutch cable and sticky indicator problems as well.
Clutch cable replaced at 60k, potentially a lack of lubing that made it fray, the bike is at 118k now, and they're lubing the cable regularly at service. Possible rain etc, when parked outside.

Never had sticky indicators, starter button has needed some cleaning out, some CRC etc, 2-3 times over the years.

Rear wheel bearings are a known problem. GiJoe had his replaced while still under factory warranty :lol:

[Kendog]

One of the throttle cables snapped on Tuesday. I have the replacements ready to put in this weekend.
Anyone done this themselves, sounds like it could be a tricky job?

[nzspokes]

One of the throttle cables snapped on Tuesday. I have the replacements ready to put in this weekend.
Anyone done this themselves, sounds like it could be a tricky job?

Not done it yet but from what ive read its easier to pull out the throttle bodys. I will get some shorter ones made at some point and fit them.

[HenryDorsetCase]

Honestly, you look to spend all this time and money on crap like engine mods to make it faster, when you're starting trackdays in Group 1.

A mate has circulated on a standard-engined CB900 in group 3 just fine. Decent suspension and wide bars are really the only requirements to turn the bike into a sweet road ride. You get better handling and better tyre life as a result, so it's not just the cost of suspension. As said, the suspension can also be on-sold and the bike returned to stock, should you wish, it can be serviced, and also traded or modified should you change bikes (thinking of Ohlins for all the options). There are other cheaper options, but in my mind, they're cheaper for a reason. Flexibility like servicing, support etc etc vary as well, but totally agree anything would be better than the stock stuff.

Power? Pulls wheelies just fine in first, and tops out around 200 (some say they've had more, but the weave got really unnerving at that point) which is more than enough.

Sorry to be blunt, but figured someone had to say it. The bikes are also really reliable when left alone, I can't think of a single 900 I know of, that gets a harder life than mine, so messing with it doesn't make much sense to me.

At one of the trackdays I was on which was run by the then HRC (not THAT HRC, sadly, the Honda Riders Club) Aaron Slight was there on a bog stock CB900 and absolutely schooling the thing. The bike was doing 110% of its capability and he was riding at about 60% of his: looking round, pulling the odd wheelie, slowing so people could follow, shit like that. Real lesson in its not what you ride its how you ride it. I didnt have a camera with me but the tyres when he got off it were ragged.....

And the BEST money I spent on my Hornet was the fork upgrade (emulators, springs, magic fairy dust) and Ohlins shock. Quite spendy at the time but the shock I onsold and I did a deal with a guy (on KB actually) to swap his stock forks with mine and cash my way. So the stuff has a second hand value. Agree too re the fucking weird stock bars: Renthal Street Low is your friend.

[HenryDorsetCase]

Why do I do it? Because I can. Why did I fit a 351 Windsor to a perfectly good Mk2 Cortina? Because I could. Why did I fit a Falcon IL6 to a Mk2 Landrover then end for end it? Because I could.


awesome!

presumably the Landy went end for end becuase it was very front heavy after the mods?

[nzspokes]

awesome!

presumably the Landy went end for end becuase it was very front heavy after the mods?

Falcon motor was lighter than the rover 4. Nah a hill I thought was flat on top wasnt.....

[tobbera]

Regarding the stock bars having a weird angle to them. Too narrow and my wrists were in a strange position.

My cheapo solution was to take the stock bar off and rebend them. Bended out the back swipe so they are almost straight. Then mounted it back with some bar back risers. Much more comfortable.

/Tobias

[soopa]

My 1998 hornet is being troublesome.

It has been stalling mostly as I come to a stop. Park it up and it will not start up unless I wait a bit. If i manage to start it back up it idles for a bit then stalls again but sometimes I ride away fine. There has been a couple of times when I'm cruising straight at just 50km/h and the engine just stalls on me and I would have to wait a couple minutes to start it back up. I can feel it coming when I give it a bit of throttle and it becomes unresponsive. This has been going on for a month or so now. Did a service recently with motorcycle doctors and everything was actually in pretty good order. I did have a leaky petcock which I fixed it temporarily which may be the problem, gotta feeling its something to do with the fuel line/vacuum line tho. Just seems as if there is some sort of fuel starvation (i know that there is plenty fuel left in my tank) .Any suggestions before giving motorcycle doctors a call? Cheers!

[nzspokes]

My 1998 hornet is being troublesome.

It has been stalling mostly as I come to a stop. Park it up and it will not start up unless I wait a bit. If i manage to start it back up it idles for a bit then stalls again but sometimes I ride away fine. There has been a couple of times when I'm cruising straight at just 50km/h and the engine just stalls on me and I would have to wait a couple minutes to start it back up. I can feel it coming when I give it a bit of throttle and it becomes unresponsive. This has been going on for a month or so now. Did a service recently with motorcycle doctors and everything was actually in pretty good order. I did have a leaky petcock which I fixed it temporarily which may be the problem, gotta feeling its something to do with the fuel line/vacuum line tho. Just seems as if there is some sort of fuel starvation (i know that there is plenty fuel left in my tank) .Any suggestions before giving motorcycle doctors a call? Cheers!

My call is the float valve are worn. Get some from Alec at SME as he will be the cheapest by far. And do the petcock at the same time.

It sounds like a classic worn valves. Will be flooding the motor. Black smoke when it fires again?

[soopa]

My call is the float valve are worn. Get some from Alec at SME as he will be the cheapest by far. And do the petcock at the same time.

It sounds like a classic worn valves. Will be flooding the motor. Black smoke when it fires again?

Nah there was not any black smoke when i started it up today. Went to uni just fine with it

[nzspokes]

Couple goodies I've made for the 900.

Poor man's rear-sets - adaptor to move the stock peg holders back 35 up 5mm. Started as wooden masters sand cast and cleaned up. Work a treat.

Cover for the rear master cylinder. Bling really.

Got some spares? :laugh:

I want some rearsets.

[Drew]

Nah there was not any black smoke when i started it up today. Went to uni just fine with itI'm picking it's the petcock packing a pip...Can't think of any way to further alliterate.

[granstar]

My 2006 bought last year with 20k on it, now has 30, never missed a beat. Good all round bike a breeze to ride.

For everyday daily riding urban -country, and for touring iv'e done ...
Wide bars (off a XJ 750) an inch wider with bar-ends
Bar riser 1" up and Back ( I got short arms)
Sliced 40mm from seat ( I got short arse)
Centre stand
Crash Bars
Upped gearing front sprocket 16 to a 17T
chain oiler
Hornet s/s grill cover ( bling!)
clear universal fit shield
Givi box top box and side racks (old style adapted)
Front guard extender (keeps motor a little cleaner)
Oxford clock
Handlebar plastic lever covers (keeps fingers from icing up)
mirror extenders

To come ... Ohlins yella shock
set Pilot Road 4's
exhaust up-grade when needs it.
New pair staunchions (previous owner let them rust)


Sure it's dirty, ridden every day.

316288

When filling and petrol gets to top of tank I can dribble another 1.5 litre in, must be a big air gap. Gives 240 -260 k's 19 litres, at a pace 200.

[Drew]

The 'air gap' in the tank is for expansion. On warm days, the fuel may piss out the overflow after fill up if you continue to overfill it.

[The End]

May be a stupid question but I don't wanna screw with them without proper knowledge...

How can I clean up the front calipers and disc?

My discs are looking dirty/yellow part is slightly faded and the calipers are covered in brake dust.


Since I don't have the $ to get a new bike, I'm thinking about spending what I do have on tidying it up/keeping it tidy and seeing what minor things I can do to keep this machine long term.

[Drew]

Buy a couple cans of brake clean. Scrub that shit with that, then with soapy water.

[The End]

Buy a couple cans of brake clean. Scrub that shit with that, then with soapy water.

The novice in me wasn't sure if brake clean was okay to use on the discs themselves, so thanks for clearing that up. I'm sure I'll have more equally stupid questions in the future, but that's how you learn I guess.

[Drew]

The novice in me wasn't sure if brake clean was okay to use on the discs themselves, so thanks for clearing that up. I'm sure I'll have more equally stupid questions in the future, but that's how you learn I guess.
Nah man. Doing something stupid, then asking how to fix it is what looks bad.

[AllanB]

Brake clean sprays into a rag so it is wet and slowly work at the dust. Once tidy, wash with warm soapy water. Give them a wipe down with the soapy water every second weekend or so and they wil stay nice and clean.

[nzspokes]

I going to be modding a stock set of fork comp pistons for one of these soon. Will report back if this no dollar mod works.

[The End]

I going to be modding a stock set of fork comp pistons for one of these soon. Will report back if this no dollar mod works.

Very interested to see how this goes. I've messaged Robert Taylor to see what sort of $ I need to spend to get better suspension.

[nzspokes]

Very interested to see how this goes. I've messaged Robert Taylor to see what sort of $ I need to spend to get better suspension.

We just got a Nitron rear shock for my beloveds 600 Hornet. Brilliant thing. But $$$$$$$

Ive started a thread on WT about the valves.

Have you had your fork springs done?

[granstar]

Very interested to see how this goes. I've messaged Robert Taylor to see what sort of $ I need to spend to get better suspension.

Please share your findings, interested. Measured my bike sag and stock its ballpark front, and out at rear for my weight 78 kg.

[The End]

We just got a Nitron rear shock for my beloveds 600 Hornet. Brilliant thing. But $$$$$$$

Ive started a thread on WT about the valves.

Have you had your fork springs done?

I'm sitting on 43,000 Kms and changed the fork oil and seals around 2000kms ago. That is all I have done to the suspension.

From doing some research people recommend Ohlins on the rear and upgraded springs in the front.

I probably have around $800 maximum for both, so have to weigh up my options and do what I can afford to.

I have only had 2 bikes - a Yamaha Scorpio 225 and now the Hornet 900 - and have very little knowledge about suspension - nor have I ever ridden something with "good" suspension.

What I am unsure of is just what I am missing, given I have no experience on a bike with high end suspension. When out riding I definitely feel bumps in the road and cornering can sometimes be a little bumpy, but have always figured this to be a part of being on two wheels.

[nzspokes]

I'm sitting on 43,000 Kms and changed the fork oil and seals around 2000kms ago. That is all I have done to the suspension.

From doing some research people recommend Ohlins on the rear and upgraded springs in the front.

I probably have around $800 maximum for both, so have to weigh up my options and do what I can afford to.

I have only had 2 bikes - a Yamaha Scorpio 225 and now the Hornet 900 - and have very little knowledge about suspension - nor have I ever ridden something with "good" suspension.

What I am unsure of is just what I am missing, given I have no experience on a bike with high end suspension. When out riding I definitely feel bumps in the road and cornering can sometimes be a little bumpy, but have always figured this to be a part of being on two wheels.

Have you checked your sags? What fork oil weight did you use?

The Nitron was $1399. With $800 I would go for fork springs and valve mods. And a rear spring. Rear shock will cost way to much.

[The End]

Have you checked your sags? What fork oil weight did you use?

The Nitron was $1399. With $800 I would go for fork springs and valve mods. And a rear spring. Rear shock will cost way to much.

Nope I haven't really toyed with the suspension at all (haven't done enough reading to know what to do) and the replacement oil that went in was the same weight as stock (as advised in the service manual).

I should've pounced on Allan's Ohlins shock earlier.

[98tls]

Have you checked your sags? What fork oil weight did you use?

The Nitron was $1399. With $800 I would go for fork springs and valve mods. And a rear spring. Rear shock will cost way to much.

Must be a cheaper option than Ohlins for a rear shock,the name Ohlins is constantly spouted on the interweb as though it will give the buyer of one the ability to notice the difference between that and oem:sleep:load of wank but then thats aftermarket for ya eh..."buy our bolt on can and get a 10hp gain":tugger:Best money spent if your serious is aftermarket rims period,expensive but at least something is acheived.

[nzspokes]

Must be a cheaper option than Ohlins for a rear shock,the name Ohlins is constantly spouted on the interweb as though it will give the buyer of one the ability to notice the difference between that and oem:sleep:load of wank but then thats aftermarket for ya eh..."buy our bolt on can and get a 10hp gain":tugger:

Well Ohlins is more tune-able. But its a rebuild to do it. Nitron responds better to the clickers. I have an Ohlins on my VTR. My Bandit has a Busa shock which works well.

Hornet is a odd fitting and length given that its not got a linkage. No nothing else fits it.

[nzspokes]

Nope I haven't really toyed with the suspension at all (haven't done enough reading to know what to do) and the replacement oil that went in was the same weight as stock (as advised in the service manual).

I should've pounced on Allan's Ohlins shock earlier.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FjGgq1z9zbo

Go do it.

[98tls]

Well Ohlins is more tune-able. But its a rebuild to do it. Nitron responds better to the clickers. I have an Ohlins on my VTR. My Bandit has a Busa shock which works well.

Hornet is a odd fitting and length given that its not got a linkage. No nothing else fits it.

All good my point is the greater percentage of those that buy one wouldnt ride any better with one than a block of would in place of what they had from the factory,no matter what the internet says.

[nzspokes]

All good my point is the greater percentage of those that buy one wouldnt ride any better with one than a block of would in place of what they had from the factory,no matter what the internet says.

Fair call. But my Ohlins and my girls Nitron was about comfort not about more speed. Got my Ohlins for next to nothing off TM.

Busa shock for the Bandit was $60.

[AllanB]

Did the big O on my Hornet. Very noticeable difference and I was very happy with the result for the $ spent. All relative to the stock units performance of course.

The rear on the Hornet is a stout unit - no link as noted above, it gets busy back there, lots to cope with and some inbuilt limitations. It does well until pushed a bit.

Hagon make one for the Hornet - I have no idea if they are any good - from memory they tend to supply with a one size fits all spring like the stocker.

Should have grabbed mine it was a bargain :innocent:

[Gremlin]

...the name Ohlins is constantly spouted on the interweb as though it will give the buyer of one the ability to notice the difference between that and oem:sleep:load of wank but then thats aftermarket for ya eh...
Big difference between BMW OEM electronic suspension and Ohlins Mechatronic. $5k and worth it.

Hornet suspension is definitely from the budget bin, mine has Ohlins rear and Racetech internals in the front.

[Maha]

All good my point is the greater percentage of those that buy one wouldnt ride any better with one than a block of would in place of what they had from the factory,no matter what the internet says.

Transalation: If you're an ugly cunt, and then buy an Armani three piece suit in an attempt to smarten yourself up, and even though it fits you very well, you're still and ugly cunt.

[Kendog]

All good my point is the greater percentage of those that buy one wouldnt ride any better with one than a block of would in place of what they had from the factory,no matter what the internet says.
When we put the Ohlins in the 2005 hornet we also had a stock 2003 hornet so it was easy to compare.
The Ohlins was a noticeably better, smother ride. We put it in to lower the bike, the improvements were a great added bonus.

[The End]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FjGgq1z9zbo

Go do it.

Will have to wait till I can get a couple of people to help :laugh:

[The End]

I emailed Robert Taylor recently to get some insight on to what options I have for the Hornet.

Here is is reply - with the rear shock being in reference to Allan's recent listing on Trademe



REAR END. If you can get that shock for no more than $500 to $600 then maybe go for it. Given the way our kiwi dollar has somewhat weakened that shock now brand new is $1199 incl. Please bear in mind that the fitted spring rate on that shock should you purchase it may not ideally match your personal stats and loading scenarios so you may have to budget for a spring and a shock service. That will push your overall cost to just short of $1000 and you still have a second hand shock.
That listing is the "entry level" Ohlins, they also do a bells and whistles listing that is $2100 in end price, but sadly nothing inbetween.
What I would also like you to consider is English made Nitron. www.nitron.co.uk
We distribute these also and they have been a revelation, the quality is every bit as good as Ohlins and better in some areas. The ride quality and response to adjustment is actually better . Their equivalent to the Ohlins also has a ride height adjuster. What we do is to submit a build request sheet to Nitron with your personal stats, application and loading and they build to suit. Its a 3 week to 3.5 week turnround. $1069 incl and its a brand new shock with a warranty built specifically for you with ride quality better than Ohlins. We are actually now selling more of these than Ohlins and a real telling statement is that 2 years back Ohlins tried to buy out Nitron.
Note that in deference to the colours shown in the website all the gold parts are now titanium in colour,as are the springs
Further to this the options available with Nitron are manifestly more numerous and more affordable than Ohlins. Ondependently and tommorrow I will forward to you a magazine article.

FRONT END. We have upspec'd the fork internals of more than a few Hornet forks over the years. The standard fork springs are progressively wound,are too light in start rate so the front initially rides too low in its stroke and then rests on the over aggressive end rate of these springs.
Exacerbating this issue the compression pistons inside these forks are very restrictive in flow so ride quality over abrupt bumps is way deficient of what it could be. So what we do is we fit linear wind springs in a rate appropriate to you, we revalve the stock rebound pistons ( which are okay ) and replace the base compression pistons,installing a high flow type. Very slippery Ohlins oil is used. The end result is much better chassis pitch and brake dive control but also ride quality is night and day better


I think what I am going to do first is look at upgrading the front as I don't have enough money to even think about touching the rear :brick:

[nzspokes]

Will have to wait till I can get a couple of people to help :laugh:

My 11 year old is an expert in sag measurement.

Agree with what RT says on both ends. But I would make my own pistons probably from some old Bandit forks.

[AllanB]

Chuck in the front springs - good Saturday morning job if you are good with the tools.

F-aye, my rear was a good deal :-)

[The End]

I put some cable ties around the front stanchions to measure the travel and have noticed when compressing them with the bike stationery and upright, they are uneven by about an inch or so.

I'll get some pics and measurements tonight.

[The End]

I put some cable ties around the front stanchions to measure the travel and have noticed when compressing them with the bike stationery and upright, they are uneven by about an inch or so.

I'll get some pics and measurements tonight.

Okay disregard below, the left cable tie was ONE CLICK tighter than the right one, which was stopping it from moving as freely. The difference is now down to around 4-5mm.

I̶'̶v̶e̶ ̶r̶e̶s̶e̶t̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶c̶a̶b̶l̶e̶ ̶t̶i̶e̶ ̶p̶o̶s̶i̶t̶i̶o̶n̶ ̶m̶a̶n̶y̶ ̶t̶i̶m̶e̶s̶ ̶n̶o̶w̶,̶ ̶t̶o̶ ̶m̶a̶k̶e̶ ̶s̶u̶r̶e̶ ̶I̶ ̶g̶e̶t̶ ̶c̶o̶n̶s̶i̶s̶t̶a̶n̶t̶ ̶m̶e̶a̶s̶u̶r̶e̶m̶e̶n̶t̶s̶.̶

O̶r̶i̶e̶n̶t̶a̶t̶i̶o̶n̶:̶ ̶W̶h̶e̶n̶ ̶s̶i̶t̶t̶i̶n̶g̶ ̶o̶n̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶b̶i̶k̶e̶ ̶a̶s̶ ̶i̶f̶ ̶r̶i̶d̶i̶n̶g̶ ̶n̶o̶r̶m̶a̶l̶l̶y̶.̶

L̶e̶f̶t̶ ̶f̶o̶r̶k̶ ̶f̶r̶o̶m̶ ̶s̶e̶a̶l̶ ̶t̶o̶ ̶c̶a̶b̶l̶e̶ ̶t̶i̶e̶ ̶5̶0̶m̶m̶

R̶i̶g̶h̶t̶ ̶f̶o̶r̶k̶ ̶f̶r̶o̶m̶ ̶s̶e̶a̶l̶ ̶t̶o̶ ̶c̶a̶b̶l̶e̶ ̶t̶i̶e̶ ̶6̶8̶m̶m̶

T̶h̶e̶ ̶r̶i̶g̶h̶t̶ ̶f̶o̶r̶k̶ ̶s̶t̶a̶n̶c̶h̶i̶o̶n̶ ̶f̶e̶l̶t̶ ̶m̶o̶r̶e̶ ̶s̶l̶i̶p̶p̶e̶r̶y̶ ̶t̶h̶a̶n̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶r̶i̶g̶h̶t̶ ̶w̶h̶e̶n̶ ̶t̶o̶u̶c̶h̶i̶n̶g̶ ̶i̶t̶ ̶w̶i̶t̶h̶ ̶m̶y̶ ̶f̶i̶n̶g̶e̶r̶ ̶-̶ ̶a̶l̶t̶h̶o̶u̶g̶h̶ ̶n̶o̶t̶ ̶s̶o̶ ̶s̶l̶i̶p̶p̶e̶r̶y̶ ̶a̶s̶ ̶i̶f̶ ̶i̶t̶ ̶w̶a̶s̶ ̶a̶ ̶l̶e̶a̶k̶i̶n̶g̶ ̶s̶e̶a̶l̶.̶ ̶T̶h̶e̶ ̶s̶e̶a̶l̶s̶ ̶a̶n̶d̶ ̶o̶i̶l̶ ̶w̶e̶r̶e̶ ̶r̶e̶p̶l̶a̶c̶e̶d̶ ̶a̶r̶o̶u̶n̶d̶ ̶8̶,̶0̶0̶0̶k̶m̶s̶ ̶a̶g̶o̶.̶

P̶i̶c̶t̶u̶r̶e̶s̶:̶

Left:
316353

Right:
316354

316355

[The End]

Had a quick look at the rear shock and having noted its original position (right in the middle) I changed it to completely soft and completely hard.

After putting it back to where it was, I have noticed a sound coming from the shock when it is compressed. I don't recall having ever heard this sound before...

In the video it looks as though I am jumping on the bike with a lot of force, although I'm only moving my back/shoulders up and down - I'm not lifting my butt off the seat and slamming it back down.

Never heard this sound before - do I need to be alarmed?

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/wPKgxIpoWPc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

[The End]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FjGgq1z9zbo

Go do it.

53.5 CM rear wheel off the ground

50.5 CM rear wheel on ground no rider

48.5 CM with me on bike, upright.

[nzspokes]

Okay disregard below, the left cable tie was ONE CLICK tighter than the right one, which was stopping it from moving as freely. The difference is now down to around 4-5mm.

I̶'̶v̶e̶ ̶r̶e̶s̶e̶t̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶c̶a̶b̶l̶e̶ ̶t̶i̶e̶ ̶p̶o̶s̶i̶t̶i̶o̶n̶ ̶m̶a̶n̶y̶ ̶t̶i̶m̶e̶s̶ ̶n̶o̶w̶,̶ ̶t̶o̶ ̶m̶a̶k̶e̶ ̶s̶u̶r̶e̶ ̶I̶ ̶g̶e̶t̶ ̶c̶o̶n̶s̶i̶s̶t̶a̶n̶t̶ ̶m̶e̶a̶s̶u̶r̶e̶m̶e̶n̶t̶s̶.̶

O̶r̶i̶e̶n̶t̶a̶t̶i̶o̶n̶:̶ ̶W̶h̶e̶n̶ ̶s̶i̶t̶t̶i̶n̶g̶ ̶o̶n̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶b̶i̶k̶e̶ ̶a̶s̶ ̶i̶f̶ ̶r̶i̶d̶i̶n̶g̶ ̶n̶o̶r̶m̶a̶l̶l̶y̶.̶

L̶e̶f̶t̶ ̶f̶o̶r̶k̶ ̶f̶r̶o̶m̶ ̶s̶e̶a̶l̶ ̶t̶o̶ ̶c̶a̶b̶l̶e̶ ̶t̶i̶e̶ ̶5̶0̶m̶m̶

R̶i̶g̶h̶t̶ ̶f̶o̶r̶k̶ ̶f̶r̶o̶m̶ ̶s̶e̶a̶l̶ ̶t̶o̶ ̶c̶a̶b̶l̶e̶ ̶t̶i̶e̶ ̶6̶8̶m̶m̶

T̶h̶e̶ ̶r̶i̶g̶h̶t̶ ̶f̶o̶r̶k̶ ̶s̶t̶a̶n̶c̶h̶i̶o̶n̶ ̶f̶e̶l̶t̶ ̶m̶o̶r̶e̶ ̶s̶l̶i̶p̶p̶e̶r̶y̶ ̶t̶h̶a̶n̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶r̶i̶g̶h̶t̶ ̶w̶h̶e̶n̶ ̶t̶o̶u̶c̶h̶i̶n̶g̶ ̶i̶t̶ ̶w̶i̶t̶h̶ ̶m̶y̶ ̶f̶i̶n̶g̶e̶r̶ ̶-̶ ̶a̶l̶t̶h̶o̶u̶g̶h̶ ̶n̶o̶t̶ ̶s̶o̶ ̶s̶l̶i̶p̶p̶e̶r̶y̶ ̶a̶s̶ ̶i̶f̶ ̶i̶t̶ ̶w̶a̶s̶ ̶a̶ ̶l̶e̶a̶k̶i̶n̶g̶ ̶s̶e̶a̶l̶.̶ ̶T̶h̶e̶ ̶s̶e̶a̶l̶s̶ ̶a̶n̶d̶ ̶o̶i̶l̶ ̶w̶e̶r̶e̶ ̶r̶e̶p̶l̶a̶c̶e̶d̶ ̶a̶r̶o̶u̶n̶d̶ ̶8̶,̶0̶0̶0̶k̶m̶s̶ ̶a̶g̶o̶.̶

P̶i̶c̶t̶u̶r̶e̶s̶:̶



RH cable tie is catching on the fork guard. And way to much sag.

[nzspokes]

53.5 CM rear wheel off the ground

50.5 CM rear wheel on ground no rider

48.5 CM with me on bike, upright.

Way to much sag.

[AllanB]

You will find the Hornets front end has a lot of factory binding for want of another term that influences the static sag settings when you record them.

I remember being more interested in rider sag when setting the front ends preload. Set - then refine on the road as required.


If you are playing around (good stiff) then record the original setting and each adjustment you do - make notes. Easy to revert then if you and not getting the gains you desire. Side note - if the stock oil is in there it will be shit by now. Change it. Oh you need to remove the front forks to do this - may as well swap out the springs while you are there :cool:

[SVboy]

Aim for about 3.5cm sag between static and rider sag, so based on your figures, wind your rear preload collar rings down a few turns to achieve this. You have 3cm of free sag which is unloaded sag minus static sag. This is a sign you may need a heavier rear spring from stock. Don't forget, improving the front is where the big benefits lie.

[Drew]

There is a helpful booklet that can be downloaded from the KSS website. Do that.

[The End]

Thoughts/Ideas?:

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/176475-Custom-Midpipe


I tried something to get rid of the smell today - temporarily extended the exhaust pipes by about 40cm - clearing the stock tailtidy, numberplate etc by around 10cm.

Still got the bad smell circling back around and stinking out things, so obviously modding the high mount won't work.

[AllanB]

I never had a issue with the often reported stink. I wonder if the physical size of the rider makes a difference - if you are a large unit possibly you end up with a larger area of dead air behind you.

Mind you I had also altered the rear of the stock pipes to free up some noise then went to Yoshis so maybe the gasses were exiting quicker.


Low pipe will eliminate it though.

Know anyone handy with a welder? You can buy stainless muffler pipe in curves, straights etc and cut/weld to suit your desired pipe. If a good welder it could look very trick.

http://www.autobend.co.nz/exhausts.html

[The End]

Low pipe will eliminate it though.

Know anyone handy with a welder? You can buy stainless muffler pipe in curves, straights etc and cut/weld to suit your desired pipe. If a good welder it could look very trick.

http://www.autobend.co.nz/exhausts.html

I'm only 6'1 and 80kgs, so I don't think its a case of me being a big lad... I've got the Dan Moto pipes on currently, although have had the same issue with stock pipes, Dan Moto's with baffle and without.

I've been too'ing and fro'ing with all sorts of different options on how to fix this problem; something I came across last night was to check and replace the fuel pressure regulator. Compared to the guys in the states who say they are getting 160-180 miles before the fuel light come on, I get around 165kms riding in town, and 190kms riding on the open road which seems a lot lower than average. I'm not a super hoon on the bike either.

The lower mileage + instant stink smell as soon as it starts + black/sooty rear end makes me hope that replacing the fuel pressure regulator may fix the smell problem. I'll ring Botany Honda on Tuesday and order the part in and post back results.

[AllanB]

At 6 1 you have a fair height on me but geeez you must be a skinny bugger.

Dan Motos are fairly short pipes too - so they bring the outlet closer to the rider.

I spent some times when I got my Hornet new on the USA Wrist Twisters site - it appeared some people got the stink, others did not. There was never a common reason or actual bike issue.

Check your air cleaner first if you think mileage is poor - if it is dirty and in need of replacement do that first. A dirty air filter is the easiest way to stuff up fuel mileage. I can;t remember what I got out of mine - it was always pleasantly good.

[The End]

The lower mileage + instant stink smell as soon as it starts + black/sooty rear end makes me hope that replacing the fuel pressure regulator may fix the smell problem. I'll ring Botany Honda on Tuesday and order the part in and post back results.

Did some further testing on this today; I lifted up the fuel tank and investigated the regulator further. Many people have posted that if you can smell or see liquid (fuel) in the vacuum line that the regulator is buggered and needs to be replaced. Although my vacuum line had a slight smell of fuel, it didn't have any liquid in there.

I turned the bike on and let it run for a bit, disconnecting and reconnecting the vacuum line and seeing if there was any fuel in there - it was completely empty.

This would point to the regulator still being intact and not needing to be replaced. I'd rather save that $100 and put it towards a Power Commander which I know will let me lean out the bike from being so super rich.

Now that I know extending out the mufflers beyond the tailtidy will not cure the low air pressure circulation zone, that has been taken off the list.

I'm going to keep a close record of my fuel mileage to compare to other rider's data to see if my bike is extra rich.

My first preference is to somehow cure the stinky exhaust smell - a normal exhaust smell like on any other car/motorbike I can live with. If that cannot be fixed then the only option is to go to a low mount, which while not fixing the smell issue will stop it from coating my riding gear + bags in the stink.

Couple of questions:
Is there somewhere I can take my bike where they can measure/'smell' the exhaust gasses coming out of the mufflers to read what the gasses are made up of? - I am thinking this may show how rich the bike is? People on Wristtwisters in the USA say they have taken their bikes to places like that and for $20.00 have gotten a report on the bike's exhaust.

Is there anyone in Auckland who DOESN'T have the smell who would be able to meet me somewhere so I can compare my exhaust stink to yours?


tl;dr still no progress.

[nzspokes]

They are not rich everwhere. Lean in some and rich in others.

Sent from my GT-I9300T using Tapatalk

[The End]

They are not rich everwhere. Lean in some and rich in others.



Did you have your midpipe welded or flanged on to the stock header when you did the low mount conversion?

[nzspokes]

Did you have your midpipe welded or flanged on to the stock header when you did the low mount conversion?

Welded.

10char,

[The End]

From the last fuel up I managed just under 190kms until the fuel light came on, and refuelled a few KMs after that. 65% around town riding, 35% motorway. Riding 'normal' - no hooning etc.

I got:

7.19 litres per 100km
or
32.7 US MPG

From looking at this thread:
http://www.wristtwisters.com/forums/f94/when-does-your-fuel-light-come-on-53242.html

It seems to be horrendously low...

Thermostat is nearly here from the USA - I'll give that mod a go and report back any changes.

[nzspokes]

Mine was 240ks to the light. You are getting worse then my VTR which is saying something.

[The End]

Mine was 240ks to the light. You are getting worse then my VTR which is saying something.

I just don't know what it could be, I've checked the fuel pressure regulator and it is fine - no fuel in the vacuum line, no leaking from what I can see. With and without air filter, no changes. Spark plugs look fine too...

It makes sense to my non-expert mind that getting such terrible MPG is a contributor to the terrible exhaust smell - it must be running extremely rich to be using that much fuel, adding to the exhaust smelling like unburnt fuel.

I'll try this thermostat mod as suggested by MarylandMike on WT and see what happens. He reported it instantly fixed the exhaust smell so I am crossing my fingers.

[nzspokes]

When was the last valve check and is the intake flap valve functioning?

[The End]

When was the last valve check and is the intake flap valve functioning?

Valves done 7,000km ago. All well within spec no changes required.

[Gremlin]

From the last fuel up I managed just under 190kms until the fuel light came on,
Well 7L/100km is terrible. How far do you fuel the bike, as this affects when the light comes on etc. I'd be somewhere around 220-240km before reserve (hard to tell currently as boss provides fuel at the office, so I'm unsure how much I'm putting in etc.)

[The End]

Well 7L/100km is terrible. How far do you fuel the bike, as this affects when the light comes on etc. I'd be somewhere around 220-240km before reserve (hard to tell currently as boss provides fuel at the office, so I'm unsure how much I'm putting in etc.)

I fill it until it comes up to the very top of the tank, and then let it settle for a few seconds before filling up some more. It isn't over filled, but it certainly isn't under filled.

Did 180kms today riding hard 100% open road, so will fill up tomorrow and see how my MPG varies.

[The End]

195kms yesterday. 95% open road riding hard. 5% in town.

6.46L / 100km.

[Drew]

195kms yesterday. 95% open road riding hard. 5% in town.

6.46L / 100km.

That doesn't seem too bad. So, it seems to run rich as fuck at low throttle and revs.

Ambient temp sensor could be fucked. In which case, check what resistance it should be at a temp of 20-30 degrees, go buy a resistor of the same value and remove the sensor. Should cost you about $3 to find out if I'm right.

[AllanB]

195kms yesterday. 95% open road riding hard. 5% in town.

6.46L / 100km.


19 l tank on that. So 13 l for 200 lms with a max of 6 left. You'd be 250 with the light coming on.


On my calcs you got 36 US mpg in old school talk. Nothing wrong with that if you were riding hard. A quick Google of the old magazine reviews appear to be around 37 mpg - 'riding hard'.

Note US and Imperial are different if you are looking at UK forums.

I which case you are getting 43 MPG imperial. In old school that would be the NZ figure as we used the UK measurement not the US.

Links

http://www.checkyourmath.com/convert/fuel_economy/imperial_mpg_liters_per_100km.php

http://www.checkyourmath.com/convert/fuel_economy/us_mpg_liters_per_100km.php


I'd ignore most of the Wristtwisters values as they are USA based with the bike droning along for 90% of the run a a steady 60 mph before they get to a corner so their average will be impressive compared to NZ's roads.

Can't remember what I was getting out of a tank as I filled after each ride - they do drink when given the herbs around the hills - otherwise I was very happy.

[The End]

Posted up my findings about installing a hotter thermostat to combat the exhaust stink on Wristwisters:

http://www.wristtwisters.com/forums/f94/

I also see there's a Honda twilight trackday on the 3rd of December....might head along.

http://www.hondamotorbikes.co.nz/media-centre/events/honda-track-days-with-aaron-slight/

[98tls]

195kms yesterday. 95% open road riding hard. 5% in town.

6.46L / 100km.

Cant see a problem with that fella,ridden hard my old TLS is worse than that.

[nzspokes]

I also see there's a Honda twilight trackday on the 3rd of December....might head along.

http://www.hondamotorbikes.co.nz/media-centre/events/honda-track-days-with-aaron-slight/

Hmmmm, I may have a go at that.

[The End]

Hmmmm, I may have a go at that.

I've not been to a twilight one before so not sure how much track time you get for your $60. I'm thinking at least 2x 20 minute sessions would be worth it though, however will wait and see what the forecast is for next week before making a booking.

[nzspokes]

I've not been to a twilight one before so not sure how much track time you get for your $60. I'm thinking at least 2x 20 minute sessions would be worth it though, however will wait and see what the forecast is for next week before making a booking.

My thoughts also. Dont fancy riding there with track rubber on in the rain.

[The End]

Bugger...looks like all the spots are gone except for the FAST group.

[granstar]

My 2c, no stink, only noticed walking about the rear of bike, apparently pillions complain of it ( I don't do pillions).

K's per litre, the bikes are slightly high reving, i'm a light-shorty 5'4-74kg.

I put a 17T sprocket on the front and that lowered the revs a little and bike is much smoother for what I want it for.
A full tank ridden hard I get 200 k's, normal everyday riding commuting and open road I get 240k's from full to reserve light.
Bike has medium front screen, top box, and sometimes panniers and rally gear, doesn't affect that much.

There is quite an air gap at the top of the tank, to fill it right up you have to dribble in the last litre.

[emas]

Has almost all the above done as well as the following.

Seat:
The problem with this bike is it is a little too high for Mrs KD. Reducing the seat height was the first step in correcting this. Sent the stock seat off to Macdonald trimmers in Tauranga (Rider seats). The result was a fantastic looking and very comfortable seat, especially compared to the firm stock seat. The height had dropped a little but still need to go down more, so onto the next mod.
Thank Groins NZ for the lend of your seat while ours was away.

Suspension:
A lot of people talked about lowering the bike by adjusting the rear shock. Unfortunately the rear of the Hornet was not set up for this, with the only option being chopping the stock shock down, which could impact on performance and ride comfort (which was already very firm and bouncy)
After hours on various forums looking at other options discovered Ohlins make a couple of shocks for the hornet that lower the bike. Got in touch with Robert Taylor at Hawera Motorcycles who imported and installed the shock for us. Not only is the bike lower now but the ride has improved as well.

Im sorry for unearthing this thread, but i have a problem with lowering HH900 from y 2005. I contacted Ohlins distibutor for my country, and they replied me that they dont know any solution manufactured by Ohlins for lowering the bike... I've tried to contact the thread author but he has full message box. Can some one help me with the Ohlins model of the shock+spring model please? Maybe any other solution... Shaving the seat is not enough, myy height is 158cm (5'2") inseam 61cm (24") weight 80kg (176lbs)

Maybe someone who lowered extremly this bike measured its seat height after the lowering and might to write the measured new height please...

[F5 Dave]

Well you could try contact
http://www.kss.net.nz/

Who he refers to, new name, same guys. But I'd tell them you are out of country.

[emas]

Well you could try contact
http://www.kss.net.nz/

Who he refers to, new name, same guys. But I'd tell them you are out of country.

I cannot open that website, got a message "connection timeout"

[merv]

I cannot open that website, got a message "connection timeout"

I just tried it now and it opens okay, so just try again.

[pritch]

I cannot open that website, got a message "connection timeout"

Works for me. That is the NZ Ohlins importer. The Robert Taylor of Hawera Mtorcycles mentioned in the post you quoted now operates KSS. If you have trouble contacting him online come back on here and I'll see if I can help. I will be out of circulation for two or three days though.

[emas]

Still cannot open. Even in different web explorers. check the YT: https://youtu.be/962UYKBbJsw
BTW ive found them on FB https://www.facebook.com/kss.net.nz/
Thanks a lot guys, u're g8! I'll keep You updated.

[Gremlin]

He does work with European entities on the custom solutions, really knows his suspension, so I hope he has some options for you.