KDX200 Question

[PZR]

Hi guys I wonder if anyone can help. I have an old mid 80s air cooled KDX200 which I am tidying up. It has a Mikuni carb which has two vent tubes on the left and right sides of the carb body and one under the float bowl. Now I know that it would have had flexible tubes running away from these probably to drain below the suspension, but what I do not know is if they just drop straight down or does one or more go vertical first to make a loop in case the bike goes upside down. This may be important as a vent pipe that is higher than the float bowl or throttle body can effect the way the carb performs drawing vacuum or fuel. (The bike does not go yet so I cannot comment on performance)
I have checked the Kawasaki parts site but it does not show that level of detail.
Does anyone have a diagram showing the correct position of these tubes or an original bike with tubes still intact perhaps that I could look at or get a photo of maybe
Thanks
PZR

[T.W.R]

The tubes on the side of the carb slide chamber are overflow pipes (#92059) & the bottom pipe (#92059) is a drain pipe, none of them have an effect on the performance of the carb.

The overflow pipes are routed through holding brackets (#92037F) that are attached to the floatbowl on either side then along with the drain pipe travel down behind the motor to a bracket close to the R/H footpeg mounts on the chassis.

They harden over time & most overflow pipes usually get cut off flush with the bottom of the float chamber on the carb or 20-30mm below the holding brackets.

the overflow pipes are 7 x 420mm & the drain pipe is 6.5 x 370mm

[PZR]

Thats perfect, just what I needed as not sure. Thanks TWR

[F5 Dave]

That is the keihin drawing, Mikunis are roundslide, but yeah I wouldn't lose any sleep over it.

While you are about it the needle jet (which fortunately is removable in the roundslide Miks) is likely to be ovalised by now. I've seen an aircooled that didn't run well & the needle jet (remove mainjet & push needle jet up into the throttle area). Check that this is a round hole, any ovalisation will make it soggy to carburete. As ou will have found the power valves tend to seize & strip on bikes that aren't maintained.

[T.W.R]

That is the keihin drawing, Mikunis are roundslide, but yeah I wouldn't lose any sleep over it.



It's a diagram of the Keihin carb for the 88' model C3 KDX200 (last of the air cooled KDX 200)
pre 88' have the round slide Mikuni

it was the best example of where the pipes ran compared to the diagrams of the earlier model carbs

[PZR]

THanks guys any help is great. I went to try and start it the other night but it would not go. I have not done any tests re checking spark etc yet I will probably do that this weekend. Though I did close the gap down to the book setting of 0.8. Are there any common things that the KDX often has as a problem that I could be looking at to get it to start easy. The guy I bought it off reckoned they were all hard to start but it did go . I have ridden it so I know it goes. I had to fix the kick start ratchet which I have done and I tidied up a few things that needed it but now I just want it to go. Any experienced thought or comments would be appreciated.
Cheers
PZR

[F5 Dave]

Should start easy. Obviously once a plug gets fouled it is a dud & will hinder any progress. You can clean them up under a propane flame, but often when dead, they are dead. Buy a new one, keep a spare.

Before you try it, any bike that has been sitting is prone to petrol blocking the jets as it evaporates.

First take the carb apart & clean it out + blow through any passages esp the pilot jet which is the smallest thus clogs easiest –is responsible for low throttle so crucial for starting. Check the choke cct isn’t clogged, blow through any holes with a pipe, or compressed air if you have it. Best to drop that needle jet out & see it isn’t clogged. Take the float jet out to see there isn’t hair or gunk holding it open.

When you have the carb off, have a look in the manifold with a torch to see the reeds aren't broken. That will make it hard to start. Probably need to take the reedblock out to properly see. If you remove the manifold just make sure you seal it up with a decent sealant like Loctite master gasket.

Hold the choke up with a peg if it doesn’t stay up. Make sure the air-filter is clean or replace if hideous. Lay the plug on the side of head plugged in & check that it sparks when kicked. Put in, should be sweet to start.

[PZR]

I know this is an old thread but just an update.
The rubber mount between the carb and the cylinder had a tear in it so it was never going to start or run well. I fixed that so it now goes and we have had it out once and it runs real well. Just need more fine weather and some free time to have another go on it. I know its an old clunker for all you guys who ride modern stuff but its good enough for me for the occasional play so here is a photo just for good measure

[T.W.R]

:shit: The KDX is an oldie, 85' A3 model by the looks :yes:

Still capable of having plenty of fun though, and in the end thats what it's all about.

[PZR]

I have ended up with two of them. One for parts and one that goes. One is a A1 and the other a A2 both pre power valve air cooled. If I can pick up a second barrel and/or motor cheap I will be able to get both going
I just wanna have fun off road where you dont do 200kph and get tickets. Not that I would go that fast cause thats illegal isnt it

[cheese]

My brother had one of those in the 88 version (last of the air cooled ones). it was bored out to a 250 and it had some lethal power! I fliped it one time launching off a jump and snapped the rear guard!!

[fxpc]

Hiya, I reckon thats my old bike! If it is, your right is does go well when it goes.