Good riding habits.

[toymachine]

Hey Guys'n Gals... basically, i'm looking to start off right and drill in 'good' riding habits early before I develop my own not-so-good ones.

Looking for advice even on the more basic level...

Corners:

I've found i've got a fair bit of engine breaking on the bike, and have been using that a fair bit to set myself up speed wise, even downshifting to get a bit more - this is very much a hangover from my cage driving... brakes more secondary (and only on the straight beforehand if possible), turning in with a constant bit of throttle then accelerating out of the second half of the corner.

Also, if I find mid corner i'm in too high a gear, is it safe to downshift or is liable to stuff me up?

If someone could lay out a bit of a 'process' they've developed for approaching corners it'd be much appreciated...

Intersections/stops:

Should I be aiming to get myself into first as i'm rolling up and just about to stop? I've found I tend to be slow enough for the engine to be struggling as i'm finding my way down the gears to try get first in time...

I generally sit there resting on one foot also...

So, what's a good system for approaching intersections/stops etc?


All I can think of at the moment but feel free to offer advice in other areas... i've only ridden 3 times so far, and each one was in the dark, so i'm sure i'll be finding more areas i'm not so sure of the best approach.

[Jantar]

Congratulations on asking the right questions early.

I would recommend that you get a mentor from your area to help you along. See http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php?t=30053&highlight=mentors for details. :yes:

[Fub@r]

In corners you need to gauge your speed and suitable gear. Keep it smooth. Dont accelerate hard in a corner or kick it down too hard as back might step out. Sudden changes in power especially when wet might might life a bit too interesting.

[Kyle]

Im no rider training instructor, but over the years i have learned a thing or two. As for corners your on the right track there, better to go in under gentle power then to coast into it. Using engine braking to setup the corner is good practice, as you lessen the risk of being under powered and drifting wide in the corner. You can change down mid corner so long as you keep it smooth, but its not really recomended as backing off the power during gear change will make the bike stand up. Likewise for braking mid corner, especially the front brakes. My only crash i braked on a corner that tightened when i wouldve been better to lean into it even more.

As for intersections i personally dont bother getting into first before coming to a stop, usally plenty of time for that while your waiting for the lights etc.
Keep in mind that bikes can stop alot faster then cars, i always check my mirrors for the cars behind me when coming to a stop, just incase they havnt seen me, because riders being nailed from behind is actully quite common.
One foot down seems to be fine, but watch out for strong wind and trucks backwash, as it can blow you over.

other dangers ive found is how slippery a road gets after a light rain, it brings the oil to the surface but not enough to wash it away. And lastly a parking tip, take care if you have to put the stand down on dirt/grass, ive seen it many times where the bike appears stable and a few minutes later the stand sinks in far enough that the bike tips over, nothing worse then smashing up your bike when your not even on it!

hope that helps abit, and good to see another person getting into bikes :rockon:

[McJim]

I was full of the same questions as you - some of them have been answered with experience but I'm off to the Ride Right ride Safe course with my Mentor (who is an instructor at the course) tomorrow.

I'll let you know how I get on but I've heard a lot of experienced riders rave about it on the forums. I definately think a Mentor is a great idea - if you can find someone who has been on bikes for a decade or more and is still intact then the chances are they have been using good practices.:rockon:

[gijoe1313]

This is good stuff, I've been trying to practise the techniques and advice in "Proficient Motorcycling" by David Hough (ordered from Amazon.com). It's good to hear the same stuff and queries I've had coming through here! More advice from other experienced riders please! :yes:

[toymachine]

This is good stuff, I've been trying to practise the techniques and advice in "Proficient Motorcycling" by David Hough (ordered from Amazon.com). It's good to hear the same stuff and queries I've had coming through here! More advice from other experienced riders please! :yes:


Mmm, could make a sticky of it if enough people posted.

Just had my first scenic drive blat, got to nod a few other riders going past which was a bit of a highlight :Punk: Awesome fun, way more then when it was my regular hoon route in my cage.

[gijoe1313]

Aye Toymachine, its a blast is it not? I find myself deliberately taking longer routes back home now - and I never did that in my cage! :sunny:

[Two Smoker]

Welcome toy machine, good questions... I find being in a gear that gives you good acceleration when you need it helps... On your bike it will probably be 4th gear... When slowing for intersections just go down the gears, and slip it into 1st about 5-10 metres from the intersection. This is good practice because if the light goes green, you are in a good gear to take off, and not stuffing around trying to find a new gear and have poor revs...

I wouldnt be changing down mid corner unless your downshifts are quite smooth... It is possible to do, and i do it regularly on the road and track...



Keep in mind that bikes can stop alot faster then cars

All your points except for this one were good, it is common thought that bikes can stop faster than cars... But sadly its bollocks and they cant...

[Black Bandit]

Hey Toymachine, good choice in botor mike there!:yes:

Cornering is a tough one to master and I'm also learning the art. As far as changing down while in a corner - I've not had a problem provided I'm not leaning over heaps. Don't think the Bandit has enough of a torque bite to cause any drama - likely more of an issue on a bigger bike. And anything below 6-7 thou revs will be fine. As always though - depends on the time and place (wet roads etc. :nono: )

For intersections I tend to try and slow gradually ahead of time and snick down through the gearbox as the revs drop. Hardly ever need to get all the way to 1st though - usually just clutch it as I coast to a stop and bang down the last 2 or 3 gears quickly before reaching a complete stop.

Good to see another Bandit out west - we have great roads out here!:rockon: Introduced myself to old Scenic Dr last week - sure is an interesting stretch of road.

[toymachine]

I take it yours is black too :D?

Yeah it's a great bit of road!

[Motu]

it is common thought that bikes can stop faster than cars... But sadly its bollocks and they cant...

I don't know where people got this idea from - just because your bike can do a stoppie doesn't mean it can stop in time.Bikes can stop pretty good in a straight line on a good dry surface - but try an emergency manoevour while fully on the brakes.....

[Fub@r]

Mmm, could make a sticky of it if enough people posted.

Just had my first scenic drive blat, got to nod a few other riders going past which was a bit of a highlight :Punk: Awesome fun, way more then when it was my regular hoon route in my cage.


It wasnt for me following you..............having to dodge stones etc :gob:

My first time on a nice windy road and I loved it! :first: Even if I was on the Ginny

[Jantar]

I don't know where people got this idea from - just because your bike can do a stoppie doesn't mean it can stop in time.Bikes can stop pretty good in a straight line on a good dry surface - but try an emergency manoevour while fully on the brakes.....

In fact, if you are doing a stoppie, your stopping distance will be increased considerably. Some bikes can stop in a shorter distance than some cars, but even then, its only with an experienced rider on board, in a straight line and on a smooth dry surface..

The best tests I have seen for bikes was an R6 with diablos stopping at 0.98 G, mosr bikes can only hope for a decelleration of 0.5 - 0.8 G. The best production cars can also stop at around 0.9 G, but again that is with a very experienced driver onboard. However even an inexperienced driver will manage 0.6 G.

So yes, some bikes can stop shorter than some cars, but unless you are very experienced, and on a perfect surface, then expect that your stopping distance will be greater than that mum in her SUV.

[Kyle]

hmm, i was talking about bikes on the road (no stoppies or production race cars involved) perhaps i am used to sport bikes but i am certain i could out brake any road legal car in a straight line. I agree that you dont want to be braking and doing evasive manouvers at the same time but the point i was trying to make was.. light goes red when im say 15 meters from it, i could stop no problem, but mum in her 1500kg Suv up my backside would have no chance of shedding all that momentum in time, point being check behind you before stopping quickly.

[sunhuntin]

For intersections I tend to try and slow gradually ahead of time and snick down through the gearbox as the revs drop. Hardly ever need to get all the way to 1st though - usually just clutch it as I coast to a stop and bang down the last 2 or 3 gears quickly before reaching a complete stop.
.


thats what i do also. if i can, i pull the clutch in and coast along, gently braking with my foot and also flicking down gears. my right foot goes down followed by the left if needed, while the final braking is taken over by my hand.
little trick i learned while overseas with my ex, he would slow right down when approaching red lights, giving it just enough throttle to hold its balance and not stall. generally there was no need for him to put his feet down as by the time we got there, the lights were green, lol. im slowly trying to master this myself, but a bit tricky to get the timing right.

corners, im still trying to master. sometimes i sink into a zone and my bike is fluid around them. other days im all over the show. lol. i also tend to use engine braking and throttle in gently and give her a twist coming out. slowly in, fast out.

[gijoe1313]

Good to hear about the approach to intersections and red lights. I've taken to tapping on my rear brake to give cagers behind plenty of warning to slow down - however, how do people have their mirrors arranged? I find it hard to see directly behind me unless I lift my elbows - and that looks ridiculous! The view angle means I can see cagers in my 5 and 7'oclock arc but in my 6...nuppers!

Hmmm should this be in another thread? :innocent:

[Jeaves]

Good to hear about the approach to intersections and red lights. I've taken to tapping on my rear brake to give cagers behind plenty of warning to slow down - however, how do people have their mirrors arranged? I find it hard to see directly behind me unless I lift my elbows - and that looks ridiculous! The view angle means I can see cagers in my 5 and 7'oclock arc but in my 6...nuppers!

Hmmm should this be in another thread? :innocent:

I also find it hard seeing whats happening behind with my mirrors (no matter how i adjust/change the angle of em) and ill usually tuck my arms in to see as much as poss .

I found turning my head quickly to have a look as being the only sure way to know(i guess its standard procedure anyhow?)

[Posh Tourer :P]

light goes red when im say 15 meters from it, i could stop no problem, but mum in her 1500kg Suv up my backside would have no chance of shedding all that momentum in time, point being check behind you before stopping quickly.

Been there done that..... Heard the squeal of tyres on tarmac behind me, and let off the brakes before he hit me..... Definitely not a good idea to brake hard (ish) with a tailgater. 1500kg is pretty light for an SUV isnt it? Closer to 2tonne a few of them are.....

[Ixion]

Good to hear about the approach to intersections and red lights. I've taken to tapping on my rear brake to give cagers behind plenty of warning to slow down - however, how do people have their mirrors arranged? I find it hard to see directly behind me unless I lift my elbows - and that looks ridiculous! The view angle means I can see cagers in my 5 and 7'oclock arc but in my 6...nuppers!

Hmmm should this be in another thread? :innocent:
When you stop at the rear of a line of traffic, always stop on a bit of an angle . That way (a) you are facing toward your bolthole between the rows of cars , or to the side, ready to nip in there if necessary; instead of facing directly onto the rear of the cage in front; and (b) you get a good view behind in your mirrors.It's easy to straighten out as you move off.

(It's prolly easier for cars to see you there too, a slightly side on profile is more visible than a direct rear one. )

[toymachine]

Some good tips there..

Perhaps a bit of a different way to approach the thread... what are some big no-no's with regards to bike control etc?

[judecatmad]

When you stop at the rear of a line of traffic, always stop on a bit of an angle . That way (a) you are facing toward your bolthole between the rows of cars , or to the side, ready to nip in there if necessary; instead of facing directly onto the rear of the cage in front; and (b) you get a good view behind in your mirrors.It's easy to straighten out as you move off.

(It's prolly easier for cars to see you there too, a slightly side on profile is more visible than a direct rear one. )

That's good advice, thanks. I'd never thought about that before.

There's so much to learn about a simple thing like stopping at traffic lights!

As far as the mirrors thing goes, how does everyone deal with pulling out into traffic when you've stopped at the side of the road? It's almost impossible to wait for a completely clear patch on SH2 but the GN250 really doesn't have any oomph... In the winter I've been finding I'm so bundled up that I can't really turn my head too much but relying on my mirrors is a bit hit and miss and I have to be honest I had one close call a few weeks back when I totally misjudged how far away the 4wd coming up behind me was, and also how fast he was going.

Maybe I should start a new thread for this one? It is a bit off the original topic...sorry.

[Ixion]

..
As far as the mirrors thing goes, how does everyone deal with pulling out into traffic when you've stopped at the side of the road? It's almost impossible to wait for a completely clear patch on SH2 but the GN250 really doesn't have any oomph... ..

In that situation, on a low powered machine, I would ride along the road shoulder until I had built up some speed. GN is good on gravel, just watch for a lip when crossing from the shoulder to the seal. Once up to speed it's the same as any other merge.

[judecatmad]

In that situation, on a low powered machine, I would ride along the road shoulder until I had built up some speed. GN is good on gravel, just watch for a lip when crossing from the shoulder to the seal. Once up to speed it's the same as any other merge.

Thanks for that - a bit of a no-brainer I guess. Hubby's got me sh!t scared of gravel cos he came off my bike when we'd had it about, ooh, 2 weeks! He hit a patch of gravel at low speed going around a corner. I might just have to push the boundaries a bit - I think that's what holds me back.

Thanks again tho :)

[terbang]

Also, if I find mid corner i'm in too high a gear, is it safe to downshift or is liable to stuff me up?


The trick is to be in the right gear prior to banking fully so that as you wrack it on during the exit you have plenty of power to accelerate you away. Of course we are not all aces and often end up in a corner in too taller (higher) gear and as we roll on the throttle there is nobody home and all yer mates whizz by.! Downshifting while banked over in the corner can be a bid dodgey as it will change the bikes stability and could risk a rear wheel lockup. What I do in such situations is roll on the power, initially accepting the wrong gear until the bike is starting to straighten and then make a neat little down shift (or two) whilst under acceleration.

[Ixion]

Yes, what he said. It is best if in too high a gear to live with it until the exit then change down if necessary. Changing down midcorner risks a wheel lock up on a four stroke , which could be disconcerting even if only momentary, or a sudden jump into the power band on a two stroke.Also disconcerting.

Having said that, it can be done. And is. Just maybe best to keep until a bit experienced.

[terbang]

I've taken to tapping on my rear brake to give cagers behind plenty of warning to slow down - however, how do people have their mirrors arranged?

This works well on the open road as well. If you are unsure or suspicious with a situation that may require you to stop in a hurry then the first stage of braking is the setup. This is where you gently feel the brakes in preparation for the big stop.! This has the effect of taking the slack out of the suspension and drive chain towards retardation (rather than driving), it gently changes the GofG and also puts you, the rider, into a stance for a possible big stop. As a bonus you get to warn those sleeping behind you that you may be about to hit the picks in the very near future.. The normal sequence should naturally go like this: Recognise->Setup->Brake! Have a practise some time and you will (be careful) find that just hitting the picks without a setup will most certainly end up in an early skid.

[terbang]

Hubby's got me sh!t scared of gravel cos he came off my bike when we'd had it about, ooh, 2 weeks! - I think that's what holds me back.
Thanks again tho :)

The best advice I could offer here is to find an old dirt bike and a muddy old paddock and go out there and have fun. :yes:

[terbang]

Ok you asked for it here is my Hobby horse..

When riding any motorcycle you need to develop and maintain (this means thinking about them all the time) 3 basic skills.
(1) Handling skills. Get out there in carparks or paddocks and know your machine and how to handle it well in normal and emergency manouvres.
(2) Mental skills. Read the road, be aware of the traffic, navigate accurately, maintain a state of high "Situational Awareness" and adjust your riding style accordingly.
(3) Self Control Skills (the biggie). Fairly self explanatory really. Ride your own ride, know and dont exceed your own and your bikes limitations..

[Leong]

Just had my first scenic drive blat, got to nod a few other riders going past which was a bit of a highlight :Punk: Awesome fun, way more then when it was my regular hoon route in my cage.

Lots of good stuff here!! My 2c... In the early stages stick to roads you know. Sounds like you were a bit of a hoon in the cage (like me), so you'll probably have a few favourite roads you know well and can enjoy on the bike. Nothing worse than carrying too much speed into an unfamiliar corner that tightens up on you, before you've developed the instinct to lean further yet!! Especially bad on left handers with approaching traffic!

[terbang]

Especially bad on left handers with approaching traffic!

You got it there Leong, I have lost 2 really good friends (yup they were killed) on left hand corners and nearly lost my missus in the same way. Part of the problem on lefties is that you have less of a view of how the corner progresses (because your lane is on the inside) and if it's one of those that tightens you tend to only realise this very late in the scenario. Often too late with a drift or lowside out wide, into other lane, cage coming the other way....:sick:

[sunhuntin]

That's good advice, thanks. I'd never thought about that before.

There's so much to learn about a simple thing like stopping at traffic lights!

As far as the mirrors thing goes, how does everyone deal with pulling out into traffic when you've stopped at the side of the road? It's almost impossible to wait for a completely clear patch on SH2 but the GN250 really doesn't have any oomph... In the winter I've been finding I'm so bundled up that I can't really turn my head too much but relying on my mirrors is a bit hit and miss and I have to be honest I had one close call a few weeks back when I totally misjudged how far away the 4wd coming up behind me was, and also how fast he was going.

Maybe I should start a new thread for this one? It is a bit off the original topic...sorry.

ive got the same model as you. if for any reason im stopped on a highway, when i pull into stop, i will make so im slightly angled with my back end pointing to the fences behind us. makes me easier to see and also for me to see. try not to bundle your head up too much....buy a cheap skivvy and cut the neck out, works a treat! leave enough give so you can look around easily.
i wait until it is clear for ages, and then take off, accellerating fast and changing up as fast as i can, to keep ahead of the traffic. same as with pulling out of sideroads/driveways really. i tend to look both ways a few times before moving at all. i try not to use my mirrors for such moves, as youve found, they arent very reliable "objects are closer than they appear!" i prefer a head check over the mirrors, as i can fully trust my eyes.

just remember, by waiting until you know its safe, all youll lose is time. by not waiting, you could lose your life.

[Fub@r]

I had awful paranoia from the mirrors on my Ginny couldn't really see squat behind me and being in Auckland traffic I was waiting for a rear ender. Spent $20 and got two slightly longer mirrors. Now I have full view of behind me and feel far more comfortable.

As I come to intersections I constantly check my rear always on the lookout for a female driving and doing her makeup coming up behind. Always keeping an eye open for a gap if I need to get out of the way

[Squeak the Rat]

A couple of good habits that I think are important:


Indicators. When you exit a corner get into a routine of cancelling your indicators after your first gear change.

“Lifesaver” head check. Look over your shoulder before turns, lane changes or even change in lane position.

Braking into corners - release the brakes before you turn, apply throttle (constant - not accelerating) and then turn. Try to avoid going into a corner on the brakes and/or with no throttle. The front wheel is grippiest when the suspension is not loaded.

[Blairos]

On the "Approaching an Intersection" or set of lights, I tend to clutch in, and step down thru all the gears, whilst gently braking, so I am in neutral by the time I come to a full stop (assuming of course I am planning to stop :))
Then both feet on the ground

I read somewhere on here that they look for these two things on your Restricted/Full Test? Is this correct?
Got my 6R test on Wednesday next week...

[sunhuntin]

On the "Approaching an Intersection" or set of lights, I tend to clutch in, and step down thru all the gears, whilst gently braking, so I am in neutral by the time I come to a full stop (assuming of course I am planning to stop :))
Then both feet on the ground

...


thats it, thats the one i do the most. my aim is to have it in a low enough gear so if the light changes, i cant ease out the clutch and accelerate straight away. usually first or second, depending on speed. and i never leave the bike in neutral unless shes not moving. when stopped at lights, im in first and holding the clutch in...helps with slight downhill patches as well, clutch out enough to stop me rolling.

[redbaron36]

other dangers ive found is how slippery a road gets after a light rain, it brings the oil to the surface but not enough to wash it away. And lastly a parking tip, take care if you have to put the stand down on dirt/grass, ive seen it many times where the bike appears stable and a few minutes later the stand sinks in far enough that the bike tips over, nothing worse then smashing up your bike when your not even on it!

hope that helps abit, and good to see another person getting into bikes :rockon:


I agree with that one hard as when you park on it then you come back to it and bang theres your mirror gone again.
Have done this at least twice at home.
ME = dumbass for not learning the 1st time.

[Zapf]

Hey Guys'n Gals... basically, i'm looking to start off right and drill in 'good' riding habits early before I develop my own not-so-good ones.

Looking for advice even on the more basic level...

Corners:

I've found i've got a fair bit of engine breaking on the bike, and have been using that a fair bit to set myself up speed wise, even downshifting to get a bit more - this is very much a hangover from my cage driving... brakes more secondary (and only on the straight beforehand if possible), turning in with a constant bit of throttle then accelerating out of the second half of the corner.

Also, if I find mid corner i'm in too high a gear, is it safe to downshift or is liable to stuff me up?

If someone could lay out a bit of a 'process' they've developed for approaching corners it'd be much appreciated...


There is a few things involved.

1st know what gear to be in for the corner
2nd pratice being able to shift smoothly
3rd be in the right gear

1st. You'll get to know ur bike enought so that you'll have the rev range between 1/3 to 1/2 of your max rpm (e.g redline) that should give you a good balance of power and engine braking, so that you can nicely setup and roll into the corner.

2nd. Clutch and throttlo control, smooth shift is important for traction. Specially in the wet. You don't want to loose traction because of locking up the rear wheels.

3rd. Read point 1. Read the corner and know your bike well enought to be in the right gear.

[sunhuntin]

I agree with that one hard as when you park on it then you come back to it and bang theres your mirror gone again.
Have done this at least twice at home.
ME = dumbass for not learning the 1st time.

carry a small flat bit of wood with you...just a thin bit, like plywood or something. acts the same as a camels foot...bigger surface to spread the weight. flat beer cans dont work...they just sink anyway [tried and untrusted]

even hot tarmac melts and can cause sinking. when i worked at pak n slave, i was forever moving my bike to stop the stand sinking too deep...even the 50cc scooters were leaving holes! LOL. ended up finding some wood like above, and supplying it to the staff on bikes. so down by the fuel site, by the vent poles, theres a shitload of lifted up tarmac caused by bikes.

[Roj]

As I come to intersections I constantly check my rear always on the lookout for a female driving and doing her makeup coming up behind. Always keeping an eye open for a gap if I need to get out of the way

don't forget about the guys shaving with a rechargable razor, can't be sexist here

[Roj]

Hey Guys'n Gals... basically, i'm looking to start off right and drill in 'good' riding habits early before I develop my own not-so-good ones.

dont hug the left side of the road when in a lot of traffic, while the road code says "as far left as practicable" I take this to mean I occupy the same width as a car, I tend to travel in the right hand wheel marks, I have had cars try to pull in where I was in a line of traffic in my early days of riding,

[The_Dover]

don't crash

[Crisis management]

I saw "good riding habits" and The_Dover and was sure it was a pisstake.
Disapointed :( , however, very succint Dover, we will all take note of your experience....

[The Stranger]

What can I say.
See these people (http://www.rrrs.org.nz) they really rock.

[pritch]

so I am in neutral by the time I come to a full stop

I have no idea what they're looking for in a test so you had better practice what they tell you. In the real world though select first just as you roll to a stop.

If you sit far enough back from the vehicle in front with the bike in gear and suddenly you hear squeeling tyres you have options. Parked close behind another vehicle in neutral you have none!

Always try and have options...

[The Stranger]

clutch out enough to stop me rolling.

Whilst perhaps not so bad for short periods on a bike with a wet clutch riding the clutch like this is really not the best idea.
In general a clutch should not be slipped where not necessary.

[Drunken Monkey]

...The best tests I have seen for bikes was an R6 with diablos stopping at 0.98 G, most bikes can only hope for a decelleration of 0.5 - 0.8 G. The best production cars can also stop at around 0.9 G, but again that is with a very experienced driver onboard. However even an inexperienced driver will manage 0.6 G...

Check some of your car figures, they aren't consistent with my test data. We're pulling up to 1.08 G's in the Mazda 3 on street tyres on NZ coarse chip roads, hardly 'the best' production car. I've got data for many common new cars since 2004, on different surfaces, different weather, etc...Even cars with crap ABS are pulling up in more than .8G. The worst braking we've recorded was still peaking at .67G (before lockup), that was an old Supra.

In distance terms, most new cars are stopping from 100km/h in around 130-140 feet. The best we're getting is in the low 100's (usually Mazdas again), but we haven't tested a 'proper' sports car yet.

[sunhuntin]

Whilst perhaps not so bad for short periods on a bike with a wet clutch riding the clutch like this is really not the best idea.
In general a clutch should not be slipped where not necessary.

i only do it when im sitting on a slight incline...where theres a chance of my rolling backwards. tried the brakes, but prefer both feet on the ground, and hand ready to accelerate when needed. tried using my legs, but the lights take too long lol. clutch is only out a little, just enough to engage the engine, and i have the throttle enough to match. hard to explain, lol.

[The Stranger]

i only do it when im sitting on a slight incline...where theres a chance of my rolling backwards. tried the brakes, but prefer both feet on the ground, and hand ready to accelerate when needed. tried using my legs, but the lights take too long lol. clutch is only out a little, just enough to engage the engine, and i have the throttle enough to match. hard to explain, lol.

I understand where you are coming from, it is actually a common practice, even with car drivers.

Where the clutch lever is fully out or fully in there should be no clutch wear and no heat generated (from the clutch). Where the clutch is slipping it is both wearing and generating heat due to friction.

A wet clutch, as found on most modern motorcycles runs in a bath of oil which reduces both friction and heat, up to a point. They (wet clutches) are better able to handle slipping, which is a nesessary function for a smooth take off and on some bikes it is necessary to feather (slip) the clutch for control at low speeds (U turns etc).

If the clutch is not getting too hot you should be ok.

Better practice I find is the put your left foot down and use the right foot on the rear brake. When you go to take off just release the clutch as normal and drop the rear brake as you just start to move.