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riffer
14th June 2004, 20:46
Ok, I've got the bike back home.

Thanks White Trash and Fizzerman! Sorry I was at rugby when you called. Hope Gini saw you right.

It's not looking good unfortunately.

Firstly, the good bits.

Front wheel looks ok. Brake rotors are not warped.

Fairing damage is minimal. Just scratches.

Motor should go (when I get my keys - :Oops: - left them with Steve at WMC!)

Now the bad.

Forks stanchions have creases in them. Bugger.

Here's the pics. What do you all reckon?

Bandito
14th June 2004, 20:57
Bit of a longshot but are they the same as an FZ750 fork, If so I know of some that are probably still sitting idle. Let me Know if i can help.

riffer
14th June 2004, 21:20
Bit of a longshot but are they the same as an FZ750 fork, If so I know of some that are probably still sitting idle. Let me Know if i can help.

Not too sure there Bandito. They are 41mm fork stanchions. I think the FZ750 forks are narrower.

Reckon I need new stanchions though...

Motu
14th June 2004, 21:25
You could set them up with the bend to the front for a bit more rake and fit forward controls,that'll slow you down.


That's a nasty bend alright,even if someone got them nice and straight I wouldn't trust them,a stress fracture just waiting for the wrong time to let go.Good luck in finding another front end.

wkid_one
14th June 2004, 21:26
How the fuck did you do that to the forks?

You will need new ones mate. Best you start calling around to find some replacements.

You could go some sweet Ohlins jobbies - NICE!

http://www.rsvr.net/graphics/OHLINS/FORKS.JPG

A snip at GBP1495!!!! LOL - more than most peoples bikes!

riffer
14th June 2004, 21:33
How the fuck did you do that to the forks?

Well actually it wasn't me mate.

I was too busy sliding down the road avoiding cars.

The bike went into the boat trailer of the arsehole that cut me off and then never fucking stopped. I guess it hit it doing about 70km/h.

:shit:

wkid_one
14th June 2004, 21:33
Ahhh - bugger!

Now theoretically you were lane splitting...In which case he didn't cut you off - you shouldn't have been there. Moot point - but it is a calculated risk...you just didn't take your calculator. Bugger!

I would be interested to see if the insurance would pay out on this anyway...given you were doing something 'illegal' at the time.

FROSTY
14th June 2004, 21:35
sorry dude--My opinion- the chromes are toast.
More bad news -um in my experience youve probably twisted one side of your lower triple clamp by a few degrees. The triple clamp you could get an engineer to straighten
Id check the axle for straight too.
If it was me Id replace the chromes then bolt the front end together minus the wheel . If it doesnt just slide together and bolt up straight then DONT force it.

riffer
14th June 2004, 22:25
Yup. I reckon the chromes are toast .

Any ideas where to find new ones?

I still can't believe I walk away with a twisted ankle and the bikes got such a big problem...

FROSTY
14th June 2004, 22:29
Ill try up here for fzr750/1000 ones if ya like
Out of curiosity -have you checked the part numbers -to see if they are the same for the chromes?

riffer
14th June 2004, 22:55
Ill try up here for fzr750/1000 ones if ya like
Out of curiosity -have you checked the part numbers -to see if they are the same for the chromes?

Do you mean are the FZR750 and FZR1000 fork tubes the same.

I think they are but cannot be certain.

I have FZR1000 forks.

FROSTY
14th June 2004, 23:47
Ill make a couple of calls tomorrow.
:niceone:

merv
15th June 2004, 08:01
Yeah f'd alright especially the bottom one in the third pic you can see has bulged outwards below the kink. As Motu says wouldn't trust they wouldn't fracture and besides you'd never get that bump out for the slider to slide over properly.

Bad news man.

Kickaha
15th June 2004, 17:43
Yup. I reckon the chromes are toast .

Any ideas where to find new ones?

I still can't believe I walk away with a twisted ankle and the bikes got such a big problem...


Why don't you try Buckets and Bits in Lower Hutt,its local and he's pulled apart a few FZR's of different types,if he hasn't got them he might be radio linked with other wreckers,last time I was up there he was very helpful

http://www.motorcyclesnz.co.nz/

You could also price new ones,costs nothing to do that.

FROSTY
15th June 2004, 18:47
Ive tried -atomic,takinini,action,buckets and bits and one in rotovegas no joy sorry dude.
possibly we can try a mix and match using your lowers and chromes from something else.
The only other alternative Ive got is to try over in auzzie

riffer
15th June 2004, 22:11
You could also price new ones,costs nothing to do that.

Yep. Done. $300 each. Although there's a crowd in England that do them for 78 quid. Although with postage you'd probably come to the same price.

Come to think of it, there's a complete R6 front end for US$699 on ebay too.

Damian at Cycleworks is going to have a look at them on Saturday (and my tripleclamps too).

On a brighter note I just finished watching the Catalunya MotoGP...

White trash
16th June 2004, 08:00
What do you all reckon?

Buy a Gixxer :bleh:

Wasn't Fizzerman either, it was brother number 2.

And I ahve your keys in my pocket :Oops:

riffer
16th June 2004, 09:15
Buy a Gixxer :bleh:

Wasn't Fizzerman either, it was brother number 2.

And I ahve your keys in my pocket :Oops:
Excellent! Did you find my bar end too?

riffer
18th June 2004, 13:55
Okay, I've done a bit of ringing around and a heap of emailing and I've now got a few solutions...

1. going to see Damian at Cycleworks tomorrow with the forks and triple clamps. He's going to give me a definitive answer on the fork tubes and whether we can get them straightened. If we can, this is the preferable option as it's within the budget.

2. Talked to Keith at Victorian Motorcycle Wreckers in Aussie. Can get some forks for AUD$540 delivered. Oh well, I suppose I could use some of the money that the old HVEB is sending us in July if the CDFO will allow...

3. I can get some new fork tubes from Sawyers for about $350 each tube. Will take about ten days to arrive, and I will probably have to do the seals again. Of course it might be an opportunity to put some Race Tech Cartridge Emulators (if a hoard of flying pigs drop a wad of cash in my lap).

Of course I haven't checked if the tyre is okay (its flat) or the rotors are warped yet.

This is turning out to be a bit of an expensive exercise. :eek5: Maybe I should cut out the lanesplitting for a bit.

riffer
18th June 2004, 13:57
Oh, and add to that $70 for a mirror, $30 for an indicator, and $85 for new steering head bearings and races.

My pockets are feeling empty...

And to add to that, I got royally fucked again at family court.

I need a :apint: and a :doobey:

FROSTY
18th June 2004, 14:57
[erhaps time to concider option 2 -alternative front end

merv
18th June 2004, 16:02
Oh, and add to that $70 for a mirror, $30 for an indicator, and $85 for new steering head bearings and races.

My pockets are feeling empty...

And to add to that, I got royally fucked again at family court.

I need a :apint: and a :doobey:

Bike not insured then?

You were OK with your gear on the house insurance though, right?

wkid_one
18th June 2004, 18:34
Bike not insured then?

You were OK with your gear on the house insurance though, right?
I don't think an insurance company would pay - he was engaged in an illegal activity at the time of the accident

riffer
18th June 2004, 20:28
I don't think an insurance company would pay - he was engaged in an illegal activity at the time of the accident

If you look at the scrape marks on the road you will find out that I was in the centre of the road whem I went down so :bleh: to you.

Actually my clothes are covered by my insurance policy as "household goods in transit"

And yeah Merv, TPFT on the bike. Thinking I might go for fully comp after this but will have to check about the cost.

But how to find the money for the forks?
:crybaby:

riffer
19th June 2004, 14:07
Okay, been to see Damon (not Damian) at Cycleworks.

Nice guy. Absolutely brutally honest about the forks.

One is marginally repairable. The other is a bit over the margin most likely. They also have a bit of a funny feeling when you push them all the way down too, like something (probably damper rod) is scraping against the inside of the fork.

The bottom triple clamp is out about 2 degrees.

So, I'm looking at about $300 for forks that may never work properly anyway. Or will work properly but will never have the fork seal working.

So, looks like option 1 is out.

So that leaves options 2 and new option 4, courtesy of XJ/Frosty, which is to use different chromes. Either way, my triple clamps need to be fixed and Cycleworks can do that for $60-80 (cool).

So do any of you guys know where I can find some 41mm fork chromes? This could work out to be the fastest (and cheapest) way to get back on the road again.

Failing that, its finding about $250 from nowhere to get the ones from Aussie.

Although I'm kind of looking forward to potentially doing a complete front end rebuild on the fizzer. Got the bearings and races for the steering head today so that's a definite goer (and met up with Robyn behind the counter who I hadn't seen since I used to hang out in New Plymouth at least 13 years ago :cool: )

Appreciate any help with find parts everybody :)

FROSTY
19th June 2004, 15:01
dude could ya send me a bit more detail re the chromes.
Total straight lenth,damper rod thread dia would be enough to go on the hunt for ya

riffer
20th June 2004, 21:50
Okay, the first test:

The bike starts and runs fine. A good start.

Secondly, the fork chromes are rooted and will need to be replaced. I have found some second hand forks at Victoria Motorcycle Wreckers in Brisbane that I can get for $600 delivered but for the same price I have found this place that makes NEW fork chromes:

http://www.motorcycle-parts.com.au/fork_tubes.htm

Sent an email to them enquiring about availability and prices and got this reply:

"Hello Simon
For the 87/88 Yamaha FZR1000 Tarozzi list the P05-0219 fork tubes as being 43mm diameter and 615mm long with a Yamaha part no 2GH-23110-00 but the 89-90 is listed as P05-0166 41mm x 615mm long part no 3GM-23110-00..... could be a misprint though.
Export price of the P05-0219 is AU$265.50 per tube and the P05-0166 is AU$255.00 per tube. Postage to NZ by Air Mail would be around AU$32.50 the pair
Hope this is of help and thanks for your enquiry."

So for the same price as some worn out secondhand forks I can get BRAND NEW tubes to rebuild my forks, so I'm leaning in that direction. Can't go wrong with brand new, can you. And this way I get to rebuild my forks and now they are all new.

My brake rotor on the left side is obviously twisted. I have scored a replacement XJR1200 rotor off trademe (same rotor) for $40 which is a bit of a bargain. Pretty sure its identical. Hope I'm right.

Took the steering head races out of the bike today. As expected, there's scoring all over them. Thank goodness I decided to replace them as even though I regreased them (thanks to pete376403) they were old, so new bearings will be nice.

The tripleclamps are to be straightened by Damon @ cycleworks next week hopefully so I'm kind of hanging out for either the IRD to get their act together and give us our tax refunds or the Power Company to send us our $1500 cheque.

There's a light at the end of the tunnel! :D

bungbung
21st June 2004, 09:07
...I'm kind of hanging out for either the IRD to get their act together and give us our tax refunds...

I got my refund on Friday. I got all excited till I realised that it was my money in the first place :sneaky2:

James Deuce
21st June 2004, 09:44
Good stuff celticn06. Can't wait to see it all going again.

bungbung. You are so right. According to the IRD website they owe me $473. According to the letter they sent they owe me $78.

They could at least split the difference.

riffer
25th June 2004, 22:24
Okay, an update for those who don't already know (all two of you :))

I have the steering head bearings. Just awaiting the triple clamps being straightened then they go into the bike complete with nice new races as well.

I have straightened the gearlever and windscreen bracket, so I can get away with using the windscreen until I can afford a replacement.

The forks have been ordered. I sent off a money transfer today to Metro Motorcycle Wreckers in Sydney who made an offer I couldn't refuse: $540 airfreighted to my door, including postage and insurance. I will replace the oil in these. Depending on the state of the seals, these may get replaced too.

I have had my custom-made boots repaired by The Last Footwear Company. They are looking good. They have put some leather over the ripped up toes so it sort of looks like a toe cap. And brand new soles that look like work boot soles. Nice and thick. Great.

The every-helpful Mr White Trash saw me right at WMCC this afternoon with a nice black Nitro helmet and Motor-Tech Jacket and gloves. I'm keeping the dririder pants in service and they suffered almost no damage. I'm going to see how many strikes with a 3.5 lb axe kills the old helmet tomorrow, as I don't want anyone using it, especially as how it took a real wallop on the front.

The replacement brake rotor arrived today with an added bonus: a spare brake rotor. According to the fellow I got them off, the spare had been straightened, was ok for a while, then developed a shudder. They are both off a 1998 XJR1200, identical to mine with one exception: they are about .5mm thicker. Choice!

Incidentally, the bloke I got them off may be known to some of you: Brian H Rusty, of diesel bike fame. Check out:

http://www.rustynuts.co.nz/default.aspx?PageID=30

Interesting to see the front of their webpage has them at the Bridge to Nowhere. My ex's father used to run the jetboat service up to the bridge so I remember the area (Pipiriki, Whanganui River) fondly.

Anyway, the to do's (once I have all the parts back):

1. bronze weld bracket which holds the reserve/main switch to the frame
2. Put races into steering head, grease the bearings and reassemble the steering gear
3. Replace the oil in the new forks and put them back on the bike
4. Put the new rotor onto the front wheel and chuck the wheel into the forks
5. Put the brakes back on and bleed them
6. Put a new indicator on
7. Double check all my work (especially torque settings)
8. Check it all again (I'm paranoid)
9. My favourite. Road test :)
10. Get some sandpaper and clean up the scratches. Find some touch-up paint that's damn near the same and hand paint over the scratches (hey, it's a 17 year old bike!)


I'll see you all on the road soon!

matthewt
25th June 2004, 22:36
I'm going to see how many strikes with a 3.5 lb axe kills the old helmet tomorrow, as I don't want anyone using it, especially as how it took a real wallop on the front.

I did the same but with a steel mallet, you'll be surprised how much it'll take before it cracks.

riffer
25th June 2004, 22:42
I did the same but with a steel mallet, you'll be surprised how much it'll take before it cracks.


Well I also have a Stihl 020AV that I've just rebuilt, including a brand new chain (yeah another project) that I could try...

matthewt
25th June 2004, 23:00
Well I also have a Stihl 020AV that I've just rebuilt, including a brand new chain (yeah another project) that I could try...

Hmmm, best I can do is a Sthil weed-wacker that I can attach a steel blade to.

Scary thing is that on my last spill I put a fairly decent split about 6 inchs long by my right temple. Probably explains the missing 30 minutes .....

erik
26th June 2004, 07:21
Well I also have a Stihl 020AV that I've just rebuilt, including a brand new chain (yeah another project) that I could try...

It might be interesting to cut it in half to see if you can see if the foam is all crushed and stuff from the impact. I think the foam is supposed to stay crushed, so you might be able to see what bits absorbed the most shock or something. I reckon it might be more interesting than attacking it with an axe ;).

LB
27th June 2004, 05:27
Sounds like it's all coming together nicely Celtic - good luck!!