OMG! This much fun has to be illegal! But how do I start my bike? [Archive]

xwhatsit

30th September 2006, 13:28

Hahaha just bought my first bike -- 1984 Honda CB250RS (silver, ooo shiny) for $1650 this morning. My uncle, who has a good mechanical knowledge came and checked the bike out, gave it the thumbs up, so I bought it. Rode around the neighbourhood for a bit (the speedo cable is broken so I don't know how fast I'm going (easy to replace), it feels like I'm doing 100mph but I'm behind cars that usually do about 40-50kph along that rode lol). Learning how to change gears and declutch without stalling it. Finding neutral is a bitch.

One thing, I haven't actually managed to start the bike yet. Even my uncle had trouble and he's a relatively strong guy (at least compared to me, I'm a skinny little guy). He hasn't really had a proper look at it yet, but he suspects something to do with the fuel system. The bike is even more difficult to start when it's hot. The seller confirmed that; he said he will start it cold, ride it to the gas station, fill it up, then try and start it and get frustrated... but if he leaves it for a little while it will start again. What are your thoughts? The machine leaks oil out of the top of the engine slightly. Is this relevant? I'd really like to be able to drive it somewhere and be able to come home again lol. Thanks everybody, I'm loving motorcycles so far despite the frustration!! :2thumbsup

-Tom

xwhatsit

30th September 2006, 14:46

Sorry to double post but I just bump started it... did it the first time but couldn't get it into neutral while I ran to get my helmet so I stalled it. Second time I got it into neutral and put my helmet on (far too hot to run it along the driveway wearing a full-face helmet! Die of no oxygen!) then ran around for a bit before I stalled it letting the clutch out too quickly. So it's possible to start but there's no way I should have to do that all the time. Anybody have any ideas?

MattRSK

30th September 2006, 14:50

I cant help you with the problem, but nice choice of bike!

xwhatsit

30th September 2006, 15:00

Haha yeah I don't know much about bikes (apart from having a 50cc scooter I used to ride around the house when I was a wee boy) but everything about the bike feels fluid and smooth... it feels so light when I go aroudn corners, not much heavier than my mountain bike. Much fun! I want to go out again and play with it but I'll be too knackered after getting it started and I have to go to work in an hour or so... won't be able to carry plates around I'll just collapse lol!

thehollowmen

30th September 2006, 16:33

Can't get it in to neutral or out of neutral?

All dog boxes (gear box design used in bikes and some cars) work this way.

Let out the clutch a little, just to the points where they begin to engage, but not to the point where the bike lets out and stalls. Everything in the gearbox needs to line up before it clicks in, and this gets the pieces rotating.

now the starting problem *ponders* I'll think about that one a while

thehollowmen

30th September 2006, 16:41

Depending on where the oil is coming from... it could be to do with that. Can you provide a photo?

The other thing is, just vary the throttle a bit when you give it a kickstart. Some like to be dead closed, others a little open.. Try and find one that works when the engine is warm.

Also when warm you may not need the choke.

SwanTiger

30th September 2006, 17:47

Hahaha just bought my first bike -- 1984 Honda CB250RS (silver, ooo shiny) for $1650 this morning.
Congratulations :) a very nice choice as a first motorcycle.

http://www.bikez.com/motorcycles/honda_cb_250_rs_1984.php

The seller confirmed that; he said he will start it cold, ride it to the gas station, fill it up, then try and start it and get frustrated... but if he leaves it for a little while it will start again. What are your thoughts?
It could be a number of variables causing this problem, however my advice would be for you to first of all check that you have suffecient spark and that the spark plug itself is clean and the 'gap' measurement is correct. Secondly I would suggest you check the fuel system and air box to ensure everything is functioning as it should.

Replacing the spark plug might be a good idea regardless. A replacement shouldn't cost anymore than $15 and you can source one from the usual outlets, such as Repco or Super Cheap Auto, or better, a motorcycle dealership.

The machine leaks oil out of the top of the engine slightly. Is this relevant?
Where abouts exactly is the oil leaking from, could you provide a bit more of a description please?

Here is a somewhat negative run down on the CB250RS copied from (http://www.umgweb.com/usedguidhonda.html) a Honda website. It basically outlines all the problems that the CB250RS is prone to develop.

Pleasant thumper when newish but ages badly, especially if ridden to its full potential. Most problems come from weak top end with piston, rings and camshaft bearings susceptible to demise at as little as 15k, especially if the gauze oil filter isn’t cleaned every 7500 miles. Chain driven balancer also troublesome. Electric start version strips its teeth. Base gasket cracks. Calipers quick rot. DR's ruined most of them.

And here is a link (http://www.umgweb.com/member1/hsinrss1.htm) that provides more indepth information about the CB250RS from current/previous owners around the world. This might be worth reading.

As for the gear box problem, I can't provide much advice on that, other than to say both the Hyosung's that we own occasionally have problems finding nuetral. As 'thehollowmen' mentioned, letting the clutch out slightly and getting a feel usually helps you find neutral more easily.

If you find you need parts, there are two auctions on Trade Me where someone is selling boxes of parts for a CB250RS.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Parts-accessories/Frames-bodywork/auction-71623928.htm and http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Parts-accessories/Frames-bodywork/auction-71623930.htm

Did the seller provide you with a workshop manual when he sold you the bike?

xwhatsit

30th September 2006, 23:07

Thank-you everyone for your responses! Very useful, and I've already decided I love this forum. Tomorrow morning I'll take a photo of the engine to see where the oil is leaking from... it's not immediately apparent visually (or it wasn't to me) of where it was coming from. Do you think the oil leak is a big problem, signifying something very bad, or is it just a worn out part letting a little oil out, nothing to worry about?

In terms of the neutral thing, I've decided that it's not a problem with the box, it's just me... I've never used a manual gearbox before (this is my first wheels full stop) so I'm still learning how to work it. I find if I just gently nudge the lever up when it's in first rather than taking it the whole way it snicks in very easily.

Starting it is my biggest worry. I want to ride it to work but I can't see myself finishing waiting tables at 11pm and trying to jumpstart it down Upton Rd. A little dangerous and if I can't get the thing to go I'm in the shit. I'll take a look at that spark plug Swan Tiger if I can find the right tools. Now I don't live with my dad I don't have access to his gigantic range of tools! In terms of the gap measurement, I suppose that sort of information would be in the user's manual which I don't have. I had a look around on the net before for a manual for the bike but people seem to have nearly every manual in existence except for the CB250RS which seems odd as it's very common. Might post another thread and see if anybody can help me in this area. If I buy a new spark plug it will already have the correct gap? In terms of `sufficient spark' I take it you mean if I take the spark plug out but still on the lead and turn the engine over there should be a good-sized flash?

The last thing I would like to know, is how do I get the bloody seat off lol? I take it does come off? I would like to know if there's any storage under there, hopefully a toolkit would be nice, and I also want to get at the battery to put my multimeter across it and see how it is.

Thanks everybody a whole heap,

-Tom

P.S. Semi-seriously, is it possible to retro-fit an electric start? I know the later model CB250RS' had them. That would be nice, even if it would crush my ego slightly ^_^

SwanTiger

30th September 2006, 23:27

Do you think the oil leak is a big problem, signifying something very bad, or is it just a worn out part letting a little oil out, nothing to worry about?
Could do, more than likely a gasket is old and tired and needs replacing.

In terms of the neutral thing, I've decided that it's not a problem with the box, it's just me.
Cool.

I'll take a look at that spark plug Swan Tiger if I can find the right tools. Now I don't live with my dad I don't have access to his gigantic range of tools! In terms of the gap measurement, I suppose that sort of information would be in the user's manual which I don't have. I had a look around on the net before for a manual for the bike but people seem to have nearly every manual in existence except for the CB250RS which seems odd as it's very common. Might post another thread and see if anybody can help me in this area. If I buy a new spark plug it will already have the correct gap? In terms of `sufficient spark' I take it you mean if I take the spark plug out but still on the lead and turn the engine over there should be a good-sized flash?
Nah, leave the spark plug attached to the lead and position it 'near' the head part of the engine and kick the bike over and watch for a spark trying to jump across. Gap measurement would be in the manual, yep. I'll have a look around later and see if I can find a manual, there is bound to be one available free online.

The last thing I would like to know, is how do I get the bloody seat off lol? I take it does come off? I would like to know if there's any storage under there, hopefully a toolkit would be nice, and I also want to get at the battery to put my multimeter across it and see how it is.
Pass, I imagine it is either done by key or their is a release mechanism under the seat. Have a good scout around and see if you can find anything obvious.

P.S. Semi-seriously, is it possible to retro-fit an electric start? I know the later model CB250RS' had them. That would be nice, even if it would crush my ego slightly ^_^
I reckon it would be possible. Those links I provided in my previous post are to a CB250RS "luxury model" which has the electric start. You might be able to work something out, how I'm not sure - anything is possible!

If you don't know anyone with the right tools I've got some you can borrow or I'm sure someone closer around Auckland will lend you some. I brought a pack of spark plug sockets from Repco for $10 so it might pay to go out and buy yourself some of the 'generic' stuff anyway, should cost too much. I'm sure $100 would get you everything you'll ever need.

xwhatsit

30th September 2006, 23:45

Thanks heaps, SwanTiger. W.r.t. tools, I can borrow my uncle's, he has an entire double garage of socket wrenches and powertools (and old Austins). It's just nice to have all that kind of stuff at home. Thanks for the offer though! This has to be the warmest welcome to any forum I've ever had.

I'll have a play tomorrow if I have time, and write how things went. I'll pull out the camera too and take a shot for that oil issue.

Cheers everybody! I'm going to bed because daylight saving means I have to get up even earlier for my motorcycle course than I thought!

-Tom

SwanTiger

30th September 2006, 23:49

BTW, heres a really good indepth guide relating to spark plugs with photos.

http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/maintenance/sparkplugs.htm

Good luck with the course :2thumbsup

MyGSXF

30th September 2006, 23:51

Cheers everybody! I'm going to bed because daylight saving means I have to get up even earlier for my motorcycle course than I thought!

-Tom

Welcome to KB Tom!! Love your enthusiasm!! :banana: Give it heaps on your bike course tomorrow!! :2thumbsup

T.W.R

1st October 2006, 00:30

Great choice of bike :cool: Honda could learn a thing if they still made them.
had one many many moons ago :weep: great machine.

The hard starting issue will/should be just a case of 'in need of a tune up' pretty straight forward job to do. If my memory serves me right the plug should be a NGK DR8EA, a fresh plug does wonders & seeing you've just got the bike, fresh oil & oil filter and air filter clean wouldn't be a bad idea either. On starting the bike too, they're sensitive to the choke so you don't need much & it pays to cancel it asap after starting from cold & definately none when warm. In tune the bike should fire into life 2nd kick every time. You know you have to lift the R/H footrest up before kick starting too:yes:

The oil leak around the head is most likely the tappet covers weeping, The covers have rubber O-rings set into a recess that mate upto the flat face of the cam cover. They never were a great seal but there's nothing a bit of sealant can't fix. Four larger bolts on the cam cover that have copper sealing rings these weep sometimes too but never excessively.

To remove the seat there are two bolts just behind the shock absorber top mounts on either side that have to be undone then the seat just lifts off. To check the battery take-off the R/H sidepanel and the battery is accessable, the toolbox is just below the battery & panel. The fuse box is behind the L/H sidepanel.

The CB250rs deluxe with the electric start was just a sales gimmick, extra weight for a tempramental button, it's easier to kick into life.

xwhatsit

1st October 2006, 00:48

Cheers T.W.R., thanks for the info. I was having a look around before and came across this website -- it's been taken down now, but I could get it through Google cache. Link: http://66.102.7.104/search?q=cache:OhkZBn_cn3sJ:www.marshallbikes.com/lookups/ngkspark.html+cb250rs+dr8ea&hl=en&ct=clnk&cd=3&lr=lang_en

It says to use a DR8ES-L plug -- I take it I only need a standard copper-core plug, not some iridium/platinum job? Also it lists the gap as 0.7mm.

So leave the choke alone then? When I pull it all the way out it pops back (mostly) in anyway. I'll try with just a teensy bit of choke. Haha yes I know about the pegs... although I did try starting it once or twice with it out and thinking `cor! Is the decompression lever working?' and then quickly realising what an idiot I am lol.

Ah yes. I see the two bolts hidden away under the pillion bars. Bit of a pain in the arse, I won't pull it off tonight, I don't think there's much room to put stuff there anyway. Lol now I got to work out how to pull the bloody sidecovers off hahaha! I am a brainless twit :baby: haha. Is there a release? One of the fastenings holding the right sidecover has already broken and although it's secure it sort of moves a bit and I don't want to break the other fastenings the same way.

T.W.R. I have to say, that is an impressive memory! I think I know why though... I can see that a rider becomes as familiar with their bike as the back of their hand. Looking forward to getting to know my bike.

Thanks,

-Tom

T.W.R

1st October 2006, 01:09

It says to use a DR8ES-L plug -- I take it I only need a standard copper-core plug, not some iridium/platinum job? Also it lists the gap as 0.7mm.

So leave the choke alone then? When I pull it all the way out it pops back (mostly) in anyway. I'll try with just a teensy bit of choke. Haha yes I know about the pegs... although I did try starting it once or twice with it out and thinking `cor! Is the decompression lever working?' and then quickly realising what an idiot I am lol.

Ah yes. I see the two bolts hidden away under the pillion bars. Bit of a pain in the arse, I won't pull it off tonight, I don't think there's much room to put stuff there anyway. Lol now I got to work out how to pull the bloody sidecovers off hahaha! I am a brainless twit :baby: haha. Is there a release? One of the fastenings holding the right sidecover has already broken and although it's secure it sort of moves a bit and I don't want to break the other fastenings the same way.

T.W.R. I have to say, that is an impressive memory! I think I know why though... I can see that a rider becomes as familiar with their bike as the back of their hand. Looking forward to getting to know my bike.

Thanks,

-Tom

Was close with the plug :whistle: not bad for almost 20yrs. the plug DR8ES-l is just a resistor type plug nothing fancy.

Just a bit of choke at a cold start is enough, about 1/4 pull should be enough. Nothing when the engine is warm. Decompressor levers are for ninnies :lol:

The plastic covers have 3 stubs on the inner side that recess into rubber grommets on the frame, they are fragile beasts so just pull gently at each point, bottom 1st then top front then the rear point last. The seat hasn't got any other clips just the bolts and a tongue that sits in a housing, just undo the bolts & lift and pull towards the rear.

Got great memories of my CB almost lived on it and clocked up a shitload of Kms in the time I had it. You'll have a ball :cool:

Meekey_Mouse

1st October 2006, 10:30

Hey :D sorry I can't help you out at all mechanically... I'm just learning myself :banana: Welcome to KB and the 2 wheels of freedom :D

Jaz

xwhatsit

1st October 2006, 21:53

Thanks for the welcome Meekey_Mouse ^_^!

No toolkit by the looks, it's been flogged somewhere along the line of 8 owners; I don't have a spark-plug socket myself so I can't get the spark-plug out yet to look at it. As soon as I get my learners (I did BHS test this morning -- easy! GN125s are like scooters!) I'll get the bike over to my uncles and raid his toolshed.

I put my multimeter over the battery, and read about 12.10v, so that seems OK. However as soon as I switched the headlight on highbeam the voltage started dropping slowly but quickly, down to about 11.5v within 5 seconds and continuing to fall (normal headlight a little less strong effect, but still there). I know the headlight pulls a fair few amps, but is this normal? Seems excessive voltage drop. Maybe the battery just can't give enough current for the sparkplug until the magneto/alternator/whatever is backing it up?

One last thing, when push the kickstart lever down it automatically triggers the decompression lever through a cable. Would it be more likely to start if I disconnected the lever, or would I break my calf as it kicked back lol? One thing to note is that when I bump start it, the decompression lever is obviously not being triggered. However, I'm also getting a fair bit more RPM out of it when I bump start it (as I'm in first gear, second gear hasn't worked for me yet when starting it), so this may be the reason instead.

Thanks everybody,

-Tom

P.S. T.W.R when you mentioned how it probably just needs a `tune-up', were you meaning just change of plug, oilfilter et al, or were you talking of more arcane things that I don't have a hope in hell of doing such as valve clearances and such frightening things? Thanks.

Ixion

1st October 2006, 22:08

Hm

How are you trying to start it on the kickstart?

There's a technique to starting a single , though usuallyu you don't need to worry too much with a 250. But just pushing the kick start lever down wont do it.

I wrote it up once, hang on

Yes, here it is, from this link..http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php?t=11041

ep. Separates the men from the boys.

Full drill for those too young to have done it

Retard ignition
Tickle the carb
Free the clutch
Stand on kickstart lever and take it down until it hits compression.
Let kickstart come back up to top
Lift exhaust valve
Take kickstart through one complete stroke with valve open
Allow kickstart to come back up
Kick start **HARD** . With **ALL** your weight on the lever (one foot on kick start other off the ground, kicking with all the strength of your back and leg. And whatever you do don't let the bike fall over at this point because you have no foot on the ground, so you ahve to balance it)
Absorb impact when kickstart hits compresion (like kicking a brick wall)
Repeat until it starts
*REMEMBER TO ADVANCE THE IGNITION*

Bah. Electric starts, just push a wussy button. Wusses. See what you miss out on nowadays. Bet half of you don't even understand half the above process. (PT). Though the guys with big trailies I guess still have to do the full drill

Yeah, I've still got a kick start bike.

SwanTiger

1st October 2006, 22:13

Well done on passing your BHS dude :2thumbsup

P.S. T.W.R when you mentioned how it probably just needs a `tune-up', were you meaning just change of plug, oilfilter et al, or were you talking of more arcane things that I don't have a hope in hell of doing such as valve clearances and such frightening things? Thanks.
If you have the cash it would be reasonably cheap to give the bike a complete service from a dealership, which would include valve clearances. The cost would be between $200 and $250 or cheaper as you've only got on cylinder.

xwhatsit

1st October 2006, 22:31

Ixion:
:whistle: Cor I didn't know it was that involved lol! I don't know if my bike has all those controls; by tickle the carb, are you talking the choke or something? I get take it down to compression; you mean run the kickstart through til it goes hard -- but will this still work with the automatic decompression lever? I suppose so. I tried doing that, it didn't help much. I don't know how to lift the exhaust valve. I am kicking pretty hard I think -- at least towards the limits of my weedy frame haha. Should I retard/advance ignition as well, or will my bike be too new and have automatic ignition setting? I don't remember seeing that many levers and knobs on the engine lol. Thanks for the tips though, and sorry for asking all these n00b questions!

SwanTiger:
Heheh yeah need to look at the cash situation :weep: lol. Will see how far I can get first but if I still have no options I'll get it serviced. It was supposedly serviced in July in Tauranga, but obviously not much was fixed. Hope the engine is not shagged in a big way that's not immediately apparent. Goes all right when it's running though!

Cheers, thanks everybody for their patience with me!

-Tom

Ixion

1st October 2006, 22:59

Um Sorry, yeah, you can ignore the advance and retard stuff , it'll be automatic on your bike.

And the cable from the kick start should work the exhaust valve lifter at the right moment, that's what a decompressor is, and exhaust valve lifter.

The trick is not too kick hard so much as at the right time.

T.W.R

1st October 2006, 23:01

Well done on the BHS.

Don't worry about the tool kit, about the most useful item is/was the pouch the tools were in, the tools themselves are putty metal :lol: best to make up your own selection of basic emergency tools.

The decompressor hardly ever works properly on the CB, once the cable stretches a bit it doesn't work the internal cam through the full arc of motion anyhow. It only partially lifts the R/H side exhaust valve only not both exhaust valves.
Best to roll the Kickstart through one full swing & let it return under your foot then on the 2nd start the swing again slowly till you feel it firm up on compression rest it there then push it firmly (kick for the better use of the word) through the rest of the stroke.

Basic tune-up is just oil & oil filter, cleaning the air filter and a new plug seeing your starting out with the bike. The tappets aren't a major problem to adjust (they're screw & locknut not bucket & shim) and the two alloy caps on the L/H side engine case are for timing marks (large centre one is for turning the motor over & the smaller one at the top of the casing is the timing marks) it would take under half an hour to do if needed. Don't worry about adjusting the valves unless they're noisey. Generally the motor is very quiet and smooth (twin counter rotating balancers)

xwhatsit

1st October 2006, 23:24

Thanks all for the kickstart advice. As I know it's startable, I'll try all those things you listed in hope of abandoning the bump-start method lol. It would look a bit dick to do it on campus ^_^.

The seller mentioned quite a few of those things (oil + filter, air filter etc) but I do it anyway, and definitely change the plug. As I'm not totally sure what tappets are, and how timing exactly works, I think I will pick up a Haynes manual for the bike (now out of print, but will see if I can get one second-hand. Manuals.co.nz doesn't list it but encourages you to email them to see if they have one anyway, but about $80 for other Haynes on the site seems a bit steep). My manual-requesting thread doesn't seem to have been too successful lol. Yeah, the motor is very nice and smooth, it's not much louder and seems to vibrate about the same as the GN125 I rode.

Hmm one thing I just thought of... when I do get it started, if I give it any gas it stalls straight away, so I leave it to idle for a good while before I even touch the accelerator. My uncle adjusted the idle speed, set it quite high, just to help me out when learning with the clutch. Could it be that the idle is set so high it's having the same effect that squeezing the throttle does when first started? Then again it was a bitch to start before the adjustment... arghhh!

Thanks

Ixion

1st October 2006, 23:32

Was that engine based on a Honda off roader? A lot of those 80s little Jap enigles were, and it's often much easier to get a manual for the off road version.

Try Auckland Public Library, the main one in Lorne St. They have a shit load of manuals, but you have to look at them there, can't take them out.

Go to the first floor, up the escalator, and turn right at the top, go to the far right and there's a service desk with helpful ladies

You do have to be a member I think.

T.W.R

1st October 2006, 23:45

Try a few 2nd book shops for a manual too, it may be worth a try.

Idle speed should be around 1000rpm give or take a wee bit (width of the needle).

Ixion : yeah base engine is from the XL250SA, higher comp, bigger carb with accelerator pump etc

xwhatsit

1st October 2006, 23:49

Yeah, the XL250SA. Same engine, I learned from reading some article on the net that the valve inlets are larger on the CB250RS plus what T.W.R said as well.

Auckland Public Library! Wah! Why didn't I think of that? I'll go there tomorrow after uni... great! If they don't let me become member (I live Manukau City), I'll just photocopy the relevant bits :shifty: .

Scweet, libraries. Forgot they existed. Just went to the Lorne St one the other day with girlfriend, looking for information on Wonder Woman :blink:

Set idle speed to 1000rpm? Next time I get it started and warm I'll adjust it to that, see if anything changes. I really, _really_ don't want to stall it though for obvious reasons hahaha, so I'll give it a lot of revs and really be careful with the clutch. Gah. 2nd hand book shops? I love those places... an excuse to have a look around then.

Cheers

xwhatsit

2nd October 2006, 15:35

Sorry for double post. Went to library, they had to bring up the manual from the basement. It's not for loan so I took notes on it in the library. Not too many surprises there; listed spark/ignition as usual problems for starting. Mentioned the tappet covers as a common point for leaking oil, so that just confirmed what T.W.R. said.

Will replace spark plug (Haynes mentioned different plug comes as standard but to use the DR8ES-L if bike is consistently being run at temps below 5 degrees -- probably not necessary but sure it won't cause any problems), and get spark plug removal thingy ASAP.

Also, how about carburettor? Haynes didn't mention starting issues particularly relating to carb, but might adjust the pilot mixture anyway. Would carb issues like blocked jets affect starting without necessarily making a big effect on the bike once it's running? Might disassemble it and check it out.

Heheh. Getting my hands dirty. I feel like less of a bookish uni student now and more like a proper male lol. Girlfriend isn't so keen on the smell of oil on my hands but I suppose she'll just have to live with it hahaha.

Cheers,

-Tom

WINJA

3rd October 2006, 09:18

Heheh. Getting my hands dirty. I feel like less of a bookish uni student now and more like a proper male lol. Girlfriend isn't so keen on the smell of oil on my hands but I suppose she'll just have to live with it hahaha.

Cheers,

-Tom

DONT YOU MEAN BOYFRIEND FAG

xwhatsit

3rd October 2006, 09:28

:tugger:

__________

xwhatsit

4th October 2006, 19:53

Wo0o0o0o0!

Popped out existing sparkplug -- turned out to be a D7xxxx something, which I haven't seen at all as a recommended sparkplug for my bike. Put in new plug, DR8ES-L, bike started second kick! ^_^! So that seems to have been the problem. Fixed!!! Very happy. So now just the WOF remains, and insurance and then I'm a very happy lad. Bike still leaks oil -- looks like the tappet covers, will take a look, and misses occasionally at low rpm and when I back off the throttle -- I think I need to change the mixture. But I'll have a fiddle around, it's 100% easier to use now I can start it and aren't worried about stalling.

Thanks everybody for their help in this thread (sans WINJA of course :P)! You have all been very very helpful and I appreciate the time you've given a n00b.

Cheers,

-Tom