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k14
1st July 2004, 19:25
Bike failed its wof today because the front wheel bearings are apparantly stuffed.

Just wondering how hard it is to replace them? I can get a new set for $36 or a new set fitted for about $70. My mate has a front stem stand so its no problem getting the front off the ground, just need to know if any special tools are required??

Cheers

Firefight
1st July 2004, 19:34
Bike failed its wof today because the front wheel bearings are apparantly stuffed.

Just wondering how hard it is to replace them? I can get a new set for $36 or a new set fitted for about $70. My mate has a front stem stand so its no problem getting the front off the ground, just need to know if any special tools are required??

Cheers


5 min job mate, have a go do it your self, then that leaves you $34 for :beer: bozz, :doobey: drugs, babes :love: or gas, also good way to start learning about your bike by having a go at the simple jobs first, and as you build up your confindence tackle more complex jobs :spudwave:


F/F :blink:

What?
1st July 2004, 19:34
that's a hell of a price to fit them.
Take the wheel off, remove the axle and, if necessary, (gently) use a long, thin screwdriver, or a wooden dowel, through the centre to push the bearings out. Easy as, but you might need to use CRC and let it soak for a while to loosen any crud. New ones should slide in nice and simple - just make sure they go in square, they might jam up if you twist them.
Might not need anything more than your fingers to pull the old bearings out.

Paul in NZ
1st July 2004, 19:47
Ok....

The advice given is fair enough but be a little cautious...

Get the wheel out (if you can't manage that, don't try to change the bearings, get back to us OK)

Look at the wheel. Sometimes the bearings are located by something like a circlip or summat. Should be pretty obvious.

Biff the old ones out from the opposite side. ie Knock out the right one from the left. One solid whack is better than a hundred girlie ones.

Clean every thing.....

When putting the new ones back, make sure they look the same as the old ones. They are probably sealed, some folk pull the seal off and squeeze some more grease in as some manufacturers in emerging nations sometimes drink too much bad rice wine at lunch time and forget to put any in...

NOW THIS IS IMPORTANT......

When tapping the new ones in.... ONLY HIT THEM ON THE OUTER RACE. ie the bit that connects to the wheel... Hitting them on the inner race (the bit that goes on the axle) will bugger them faster than a priest goes through a fresh alterboy....

Best is to find a big socket the same size as the outer race and use that to knock it in...

Paul N

merv
1st July 2004, 20:05
All of the above, plus I would say generally from my experience you'd need a decent punch and hammer to knock them out with - if they are finger tight you've got a worn hub problem. The comment about a circlip might apply and if that is the case you'll need some circlip pliers. There is generally a spacer between them which you can kind of slip down a bit to get the punch in to tap the opposite bearing out. Then don't forget to put the spacer back in when you put the new ones in.

I'm thinking $34 sounds cheap to fit them really if that includes taking the front wheel off and refitting it - but then it depends how badly you need the money and yep there is only one way to learn and that is do it yourself.

I buy my bearings from Mana Bearings up here and I presume you are buying yours somewhere similar and not from the bike dealers as the OEM are too dear.

k14
1st July 2004, 20:33
Ok, I think I should be able to handle it. I have changed the fork seals before, so I know how to take the front wheel off.

What kind of grease should I use for the front axle??

I think that the $34 I save should do quite nicely. Should only take 30 mins or so, just have to make sure I get the right bearings. Should I take the old bearings into a bearing place and then get them to get me some new ones? Or should I just go to the bike shop??

Cheers for the help guys.

Now next on the list is replacing the chain and sprockets.

Hitcher
1st July 2004, 20:39
One solid whack is better than a hundred girlie ones.

squeeze some more grease in as some manufacturers in emerging nations sometimes drink too much bad rice wine at lunch time and forget to put any in...

Hitting them on the inner race will bugger them faster than a priest goes through a fresh alterboy....


PMPROTFL!! Who said the metaphor was dead??!!

Take a bow Paul, you bloody beauty!

FROSTY
1st July 2004, 20:54
Ok, I think I should be able to handle it. I have changed the fork seals before, so I know how to take the front wheel off.

What kind of grease should I use for the front axle??

I think that the $34 I save should do quite nicely. Should only take 30 mins or so, just have to make sure I get the right bearings. Should I take the old bearings into a bearing place and then get them to get me some new ones? Or should I just go to the bike shop??

Cheers for the help guys.

Now next on the list is replacing the chain and sprockets.
well I agree with paul totally
But i would take the bearings to a local bearing supplier--should be heaps cheaper.
The stock bearings are usually like 6302z
I prefer to use sealed bearings and remove one seal and face that side inwards.
ask for 2 rubber seal type bearings .
Also I use a lick of grease round the outside of the bearing -It makes it slide in easier.-I did say A lick -like barely wet not dripping

merv
1st July 2004, 21:12
Yep take them to a bearing shop (like I said I use Mana Bearings here) and they can read the numbers on them and sell you the exact ones you need.

dangerous
1st July 2004, 21:35
Should I take the old bearings into a bearing place and then get them to get me some new ones? Or should I just go to the bike shop??
Now next on the list is replacing the chain and sprockets.

For any parts down here try Pitlane (cycletreads) as far as a bike shop goes, but the bearings you might get a better deal from a bearing dealer.
If ya need any help then you know me number.

Paul in NZ
1st July 2004, 21:48
You are being buried in suggestions...

If you go for a bearing from the local shop...

Make sure the bearing has the same number of balls.....

Avoid bearings with plastic cages like you would a speed camera on a high hormone ride day....

Make sure they are real 'name' bearings from a country that you can actually find easily on the map and hopefully where the populace was not running about slaughtering pandas for knob ointment a few weeks back...

Look for a grumpy old geezer in a stained dust coat behind the counter and ask him (or her) what brand is best for your application. Avoid the spotty 14 year old with a bad attitude or anyone that asks if you "want fries with that." - Anyone over 35 is a ok bet.

All pretty simple really...

Now I have to go pack the bags and sling it on the ancient LeMans after removing the 2 kitchen sinks and 4 hair driers Vicki put out for a little mid winter jaunt. Should be fun....

Paul N :beer:

k14
1st July 2004, 21:56
Got it, thanks paul.

Just one last question. What kind/brand of grease is good?? Just need a small tube for future applications aswell.

pete376403
1st July 2004, 23:00
Any name brand (ie Castrol, Shell, etc) automotive wheel bearing grease is good. For me, Duckhams is best cos thats what is in the shed.
Try to avoid smearing it all over the brake disks and pads

pete376403
1st July 2004, 23:02
Now I have to go pack the bags and sling it on the ancient LeMans after removing the 2 kitchen sinks and 4 hair driers Vicki put out for a little mid winter jaunt. Should be fun.... Paul N :beer:

Where you off to?

Paul in NZ
2nd July 2004, 08:49
Off to Esk Valley on the Napier - Taupo hwy to be a small part of the annual Ringo Ride (it's ringos birthday)... Napier to Napier via napier Taupo hwy, desert rd, Gentle annie...

Will avoid the Gentle Annie unless I drink too much tonight (and what are the chances of that you ask) as the mud on that road does NOT like the Guzzi. Last time it filled the holes in the disks resulting in no brakes... Yikes! Clip ons, rear sets and c/r gear boxes are NOT the most fun on gravel roads....

Try for a high temperature grease. It won't fling all over the place when the wheel heats up....

Cheers

k14
4th July 2004, 10:17
Well, ok, it wasn't quite as easy as you described but I managed to do it without any hiccups.

First problem was the seals over them had all perished and rusted out, probably what stuffed the bearings in the first place, but after a bit of mashing with a screwdrive and some pliers I managed to get them out. Now I could see the bearings, I though they would just fall out, how wrong was I! So I got a flathead screwdriver and gave it a big bash, didn't do much apart from get stuck between the inner race and the seal. So then I tried What?'s idea of using a piece of dowel, wrong move again, a chunk splintered off and got wedged between the inner race and the seal, lucky I am not using these again, lol.

So I got on the blower to my mate who said "All you need is a punch." So I jumped in the car and went round to his place with the wheel. After about 10 quasi-girlie (being as unco as I am I didn't want to miss and break my disks or something like that). At long last they were out, a bit worse for wear I might add. I went down to saeco and got 2 new ones for $27. Then I went to honda to get some new seals, holding my breath and expecting to pay $20 for each one I was plesantly surprised when I found out they were $8 each, the guy also said he can do me a deal on some new bearings, $30 each, very good deal. New stop was supercheap autos where a plethora of grease was on show, knowing jack shit about grease I thought better to ask a staff member and read the backs of just about all of them to see what they were good for. I ended up getting the most expensive Nulon long life high temperature grease for $17.

So with bearings, seals and grease in hand I headed back home to fit them. After accidentally fitting one of the old bearings (I managed to smash it out again), everything went smoothly and I got everything back together in about an hour. I could feel the difference straight away when I pushed it out of the gargre. So a job well done and now I know how to change bearings.

Thanks heaps for the help guys. Now just got the chain and sprockets to do :soon:

What?
4th July 2004, 19:35
Glad you got it sussed K14. Guess I did make it sound a bit too easy, huh?
Chain and sprockets next... Got to admit that I would get the shop to do that. O-ring chains require the use of expensive tools to fit, unless you get on with a joining link (not something I like the idea of, but that doesn't mean they are no good) which is a bastard to install, or you get an endless chain which requires you remove the swingarm.
Shop should fit chain & sprockets in about 15 minutes flat.

merv
5th July 2004, 07:56
So I got on the blower to my mate who said "All you need is a punch."

Damn I told you need to use a punch here:


All of the above, plus I would say generally from my experience you'd need a decent punch and hammer to knock them out with - if they are finger tight you've got a worn hub problem.

Goblin
20th November 2006, 18:53
Forgive me for dredging this thread up but....I discovered my front wheel bearings are stuffed so need to replace them. I bought some new bearings but I cant get the old ones out. :angry: My problem is the spacer between the bearings is quite tight fitting and I cant get a decent purchase on the inside edge of the bearing to smash it out. Is there any other way to get the friggin thing out?

MSTRS
20th November 2006, 19:10
A hammer and a (long) punch. Lay the wheel down on a hard surface (but on a blanket perhaps). Put the punch through the AxleHole TM and position the tip on the inner side of the (bottom) bearing. Hit with the hammer. Not too hard. Move the punch around a bit. Repeat. Eventually the bearing will pop out. Flip the wheel over and repeat with the otherside bearing.

When fitting the new bearings, take care that they don't skew as they go in. Use a socket the same size as the outer race and tap that with your trusty hammer.

Does that help?

Goblin
20th November 2006, 19:23
Does that help?
Well....not exactly. I have the tools and know how to do it but it's the spacer between the two bearings. When I did the rear bearings the spacer was quite loose by comparison and I could get the punch on the edge and it was relatively easy. The front is as tight as a nun's and wont shift sideways enough for me to get a good bash at it.

MSTRS
20th November 2006, 19:24
Oh...take wheel to shop?

Goblin
20th November 2006, 19:30
If I could afford to pay someone to do it I would. Need every penny for entry fees this week.:scooter:

rogson
20th November 2006, 19:39
Well....not exactly. I have the tools and know how to do it but it's the spacer between the two bearings. When I did the rear bearings the spacer was quite loose by comparison and I could get the punch on the edge and it was relatively easy. The front is as tight as a nun's and wont shift sideways enough for me to get a good bash at it.

I've had the same problem.
You need to generate a bit of clearance to free-up the spacer so you can move it over. Give the inner race of the bearings a few firm whacks. This will create a bit of play in the bearing and give you some clearance to move the spacer over (stuffs the bearings, but hey if they weren't already you wouldn't be replacing them).

Also some hubs are tapered, so the spacer moves over further/easier on one side. Check that out once you have the spacer loosened-up and remove the one you can get at easier (i.e. get the punch/drift onto the inner race through the hub) first.

TLDV8
20th November 2006, 19:54
The front is as tight as a nun's and wont shift sideways enough for me to get a good bash at it.

I don't know about nun's but what works on the SRAD/TL wheel is using the blunt end of a chisel longways..one side resting on the bearing with the other side on the sleeve (in about 30mm or so) ..if you then give the chisel a gental tap on the outer end,the sleeve will move over a couple of mm and you can then get a start on the bearing from the opposite side.

Of course i am not familiar with Honda wheel's so you would need to make sure the inner sleeve is not spigoted into the bearing.

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Goblin
20th November 2006, 21:31
I've had the same problem.
You need to generate a bit of clearance to free-up the spacer so you can move it over. Give the inner race of the bearings a few firm whacks. This will create a bit of play in the bearing and give you some clearance to move the spacer over (stuffs the bearings, but hey if they weren't already you wouldn't be replacing them).

Also some hubs are tapered, so the spacer moves over further/easier on one side. Check that out once you have the spacer loosened-up and remove the one you can get at easier (i.e. get the punch/drift onto the inner race through the hub) first.
Yeah that's been the tricky part....getting the spacer freed up. Can move it about .5mm and its not quite enough to get the punch onto the edge of the bearing.



Of course i am not familiar with Honda wheel's so you would need to make sure the inner sleeve is not spigoted into the bearing.

The wheel is off my ZXR...
*Goes off to look up 'spigoted' n. a peg or plug used to stop the vent-hole of a cask or to control the flow of a tap.
Hmmm...you may be onto something there TLDV8. I will go and get brutal with it in the morning!

Pixie
20th November 2006, 21:56
Glad you got it sussed K14. Guess I did make it sound a bit too easy, huh?
Chain and sprockets next... Got to admit that I would get the shop to do that. O-ring chains require the use of expensive tools to fit, unless you get on with a joining link (not something I like the idea of, but that doesn't mean they are no good) which is a bastard to install, or you get an endless chain which requires you remove the swingarm.
Shop should fit chain & sprockets in about 15 minutes flat.

Expensive tools?
An angle grinder to remove the old chain (warehouse $25 )
A ball peen hammer to fit the new chain with a rivet link.

Goblin
21st November 2006, 14:48
Well after fifteen minutes or so of bashing:angry2: I took my wheel down the road to Cam at A-Head Cylinder Specialists and the spacer was indeed well jammed onto the bearing. Five minutes and they were both out and he didn't charge me a bean!:niceone: Got the new ones in piece of piss with the right sized socket and my bike is all go for Sunday.:headbang: