View Full Version : No brake light and one cold pipe
Donor
30th October 2006, 09:49
Hey folks, I'm green as kermits bum, so apologies for any stupid questions.
My RZ250 is hopefully off to get a WOF today, however the brake light functions only from the foot brake, and not the hand brake. I'm sure it used to work from both - any hints?
Also, I have discovered that I am getting exhaust movements from both pipes, but only one of them is getting warm - is this a sign that one cylinder is not firing? It's a pig to start, in as much as 2 stroke kick start beasts can be after sitting neglected for a year or so, but idles and rides fine after a minute warming up.
Any input greatfully received...
MSTRS
30th October 2006, 09:58
Bad earth, broken wire or probably corroded contact - front brake not operating the brake light.
1 cold pipe - I assume you mean the muffler? Corrosion blockage? Dunno. If it is a cold header then you have engine bothers....unlikely if idles/runes 'fine'
Donor
30th October 2006, 10:05
1 cold pipe - I assume you mean the muffler? Corrosion blockage? Dunno. If it is a cold header then you have engine bothers....unlikely if idles/runes 'fine'
Yeah sorry - the muffler, and right up to the block is stone cold, yet the bike rides up and down the drive just fine.
Bit smokey out the one side that does get warm, but it's a 2 stroke, and has been sitting for 14 months, so I'm not suprised there...
Sitting my learners at 2pm, so was hoping I could slope on up and get a WOF this arvo, and maybe even some rego, then I can PLAY! :D
**EDIT**
Just took the plug out of the side that was staying cold, gave it a bloody good seeing to with a wire brush, then gave it a nice bath in some petrol, followed by a goold olf fashioned burning, and now it's running on TWO cylinders, and warming both sides of the exhaust all the way to the muffler.
Now I just need to sort this bloody brake light out... any electrically minded people in Papakura fancy a coffee? :D
Krayy
30th October 2006, 11:36
I had the same problem on my VTR. Found it was actually 2 things:
#1 Bulb had blown. Had to get new rear lightbulb. Take it out (usually just take off the seat and you'll have access to the bulb cradle form there), and check to see if the wire is broken.
#2 Front brake microswitch was stuffed. Had to get a new one ($20 bucks from Cyclespot for a 3rd party one as opposed to $60 bucks for Honda original). Only issue is it now makes an audible *click* when the levers pulled. Can only hear it at idle so not a biggie.
Hope you find the problem.
Krayy
30th October 2006, 11:38
As an aside, the microswitch on the VTR is constantly on as the brake lever rests on the switch when fully extended. As it's pulled in, it release the microswicth activation the light, then when released, it pushes the switch in again. I'm assuming this is the norm on most bikes, so the switch unit would be located just next to the lever fulcrum on the underside of the control block (so that would be on the oppostie side to the kill switch).
Ixion
30th October 2006, 11:47
What year is it? if it's pre 1978 you don't need ANY brake lights, and a foot brake one is a bonus.
If it's post 78 you need both, and a front brake not working is almost certainly a stuffed microswitch in the front brake perch . Not theoretically serviceable BUT if you are canny and careful you can extract the switch barrel, and pull it apart.(Carefully though cos lots of little tabs can break off) . Problem is the little inside corrodes and loses its springy spinginess so the plunger doesn't push back and make contact. A ball point pen sping cut to length works well. Yamaha's tend to be inside the perch rather than under the lever.
Disco Dan
30th October 2006, 11:53
What year is it? if it's pre 1978 you don't need ANY brake lights, and a foot brake one is a bonus.
If it's post 78 you need both, and a front brake not working is almost certainly a stuffed microswitch in the front brake perch . Not theoretically serviceable BUT if you are canny and careful you can extract the switch barrel, and pull it apart.(Carefully though cos lots of little tabs can break off) . Problem is the little inside corrodes and loses its springy spinginess so the plunger doesn't push back and make contact. A ball point pen sping cut to length works well. Yamaha's tend to be inside the perch rather than under the lever.
woah, just about to start exact same thread!!
my front brake light switch stopped working yesterday, now off to pull it apart! (may have put it together wrong when i fitted the alarm wire into the starter switch on the handlebar!)
Donor
30th October 2006, 12:32
What year is it? if it's pre 1978 you don't need ANY brake lights, and a foot brake one is a bonus.
It's an 85 - but I think I have cracked it - just jiggled the 2 wires coming out of the switch, and it worked intermittently, so wiggled them one at a time, and bingo, I believe I have found a dodgy connection.
So, off up the road shortly to sit my licence test, then off to Repco to get a connector, then hopefully back to the testing station for a WOF!
xwhatsit
30th October 2006, 13:13
You lucky, lucky, lucky, lucky son of a bitch.
Who the hell gets an LC for their first bike?
Prick ^_^
Good luck with test/electrical stuff. I know a little about electrical type stuff in general so if you still can't figure it out, feel welcome to send me a PM and I can give you a hand if I still don't have exams.
T.W.R
30th October 2006, 13:40
It's an 85 - but I think I have cracked it - just jiggled the 2 wires coming out of the switch, and it worked intermittently, so wiggled them one at a time, and bingo, I believe I have found a dodgy connection.
So, off up the road shortly to sit my licence test, then off to Repco to get a connector, then hopefully back to the testing station for a WOF!
99% of the time it's a crook connection or a contaminated switch that causes those problems.
hope the test goes well but:
:shutup: maybe should have done your places to visit in another order :shutup: Repco, WOF, REGO then sit your test:yes:
Donor
30th October 2006, 13:47
I got my licence - woohoo!
Off to the garage to find my crimping tool, and spank a dodgy wire!
...and then try and find a bloody L plate - KNEW that I would forget something - ARSE!
xwhatsit
30th October 2006, 14:05
Get them from the $2 shop. They are the nice bendy-floppy-foldable ones. On an RZ250 I'm sure you won't exactly be following the learner's licence conditions, so do like me (I have to ride home after 10pm and haven't got exemption yet) and with these bendy L plates you just clip them onto your rear mudguard with a couple of bulldog clips, then take it off and stow it somewhere else when you need to un-learner yourself for a bit.
Congrats on the licence.
Donor
30th October 2006, 19:34
Well, got bounced on the WOF.
Front tyre worn
Left front indicator faded
Front brakes binding
So all in all, not too bad, and I got to do my first 15km on the bike!
Major bummer was, it dropped to 1 cylinder again after my brilliant arson on the plug. So rode back in second gear at 50kph, wouldn't go any faster and 3rd just killed it.
So, looks like a fun-filled weekend for me, fuggit all, a licence, a bike, and can't go anywhere! :(
stanko
30th October 2006, 20:15
Dont wast your time cleaning the plugs, just buy 2 new ones BR9ES they are cheap , get 4 ,2 for spares
pull your carbs to bits and blow out all the jets wit compressed air and reset the airscrews to the standard setting
While you are lying on the ground take the cover off the power valve mechinisim LH side of LH cylinder gently rotate it say +-15° either way and observe the coupling between the cylinders, quite often its rooted and wont turn the RH power valve spool
geoffm
30th October 2006, 20:59
The indicator lens might polish out, otherwise there are pattern ones available.
The front brakes will be a strip and clean job - the '85 Valves had the same brakes as the LC, and they sieze on the pins. Strip them, clean, grease the pins with anti-sieze and bleed the brakes. New seals will also help the performance. I had to get my LC ones from the UK, as no one brings in aftermarket kits any more in NZ.
Next thing to do is get a 350 top end...
Donor
30th October 2006, 21:10
Next thing to do is get a 350 top end...
NOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!
Must... stay... good... :innocent:
geoffm
31st October 2006, 20:31
NOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!
Must... stay... good... :innocent:
:devil2: Evil is much more fun... :devil2:
If you do go down that route, have a look on Alec's RD site for the changes you need to make. IIRC, you need to adjust or change the oil pump. Carb bodies are the same, but jets are different.
Tony B here can do a good deal on 350 piston kits...
Go on, you know you want to....
Donor
31st October 2006, 21:59
:devil2: Evil is much more fun... :devil2:
... Tony B here can do a good deal on 350 piston kits...
Go on, you know you want to....
C'mon - at least let me ride the thing for 5 minutes with 2 cylinders before you lull me over to the dark side! :)
Donor
1st November 2006, 19:58
pull your carbs to bits and blow out all the jets wit compressed air and reset the airscrews to the standard setting
While you are lying on the ground take the cover off the power valve mechinisim LH side of LH cylinder gently rotate it say +-15° either way and observe the coupling between the cylinders, quite often its rooted and wont turn the RH power valve spool
Yup... yup...
Okay, I concede - I have absolutely no idea how to do that. I'd normally take the bike to someone and throw money at them to fix it, but as I have just shelled out almost a grand on a squashed cat, it's going to be hard enough to get cash for a new tyre.
So, would there be anyone in or around Papakura, who would be able and willing to lend a hand? In return, I can offer bottomless (instant) coffee, and quite possibly a WHOLE banana cake, iced with your icing of choice! (Okay, so the missus would be doing the baking, I can burn water...)
I have tools, I have a bike.
If I just had a fucking clue, it'd be a happier place... *sigh* :baby:
Donor
4th November 2006, 14:19
Just had a play, can confirm that there is a very healthy spark to the left plug, but intermittently the spark through the plug itself is either very weak, or non-existant, so it looks like a shagged plug.
Off to the parts buying place for a few of those, and an orange bulb - which suprisingly the bike store I was at this morning didn't have! :mellow:
As an aside, bled the brakes, got a shitload of air out, so I suspect that was a good part of the reason behind the binding as well...
All going well, I might get a WOF tomorrow, and be able to take meself out for a nice sunday ride! :Punk:
**EDIT** Woot! Running like a bloody dream - smoke out BOTH exhausts! Wonder if I go to work tomorrow, or chuck a sickie and sit at the testing stations gates, waiting for the bastards to open??
Mr. Peanut
4th November 2006, 19:00
Haha, excellent. You gotta love that 2 stroke burble, the sweetness of the engine in every respect, the howl of the pipes :love:
I think I need to be alone...
FilthyLuka
5th November 2006, 14:29
the howl of the pipes :love:
bringa ding ding sputter sputter ding ding ding ding :innocent:
imdying
5th November 2006, 14:58
bringa ding ding sputter sputter ding ding ding ding :innocent:He said two stroke, not GN250 :third:
Donor
5th November 2006, 19:26
He said two stroke, not GN250
Actually, looked at one of those yesterday... quite cheap at the shop... but not a patch on Daisy...
xxblackbirdxx
30th November 2006, 14:55
Hey, Is the bike working fine now. If not , get in touch or send me a PM and i will have a look at it. I'm sure i can sort the whole bit in a day for a banana cake with icing of my choice ofcourse. I live around west auckland and enjoy the backroads over here for rides. Good run to HUia beach as well as Piha , the run to bethells beach is pretty narrow but good fun, the scenic drive stretch is not a bad run either. Stop by if you around this way.
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