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-df-
24th November 2006, 06:57
Hey,

Picking up a 94-98 KX250 on sat (he purchased it as a 94, but kawasaki shop said it was a 98...so who knows) with a small problem. Goign to look into it myself and hopefully fix it, but if not send it off to the shop.

What happened:

Was running fine, he took the CDI out, plugged back in the wrong way (apparently someone rewired it so it didn't have the 6 point plug or something...find out more on sat) and it has no spark or anything now. The CDI and coil got replaced but still has no spark.

anyone hazard a guess to what could be wrong? box of beers goes to the first one with the right answer :first:

Purchased it for $600 so figure even if I have to take it into the shop to get fixed it'll be alot cheaper then getting one already running ($2,500+ I think).

Can't wait to get back on a dirtbike, been a while (although fractured my shoulder the last time I rode one...:scooter: )

jade
25th November 2006, 18:09
Your pickup
(magnet..) Im having a similar problem with no spark... I dont know how to test for it

Jeaves
25th November 2006, 23:59
Disconect the power wire to the coil , turn the engine over and check with a multimeter if power is there , if yes , turn over again with the lead off the plug and check if power is getting to the end of the lead .

Start with that and let us know how you get on.

jade
26th November 2006, 10:01
What settings on m meter ?

-df-
27th November 2006, 12:01
well, pulled her apart on Sunday and traced things thru. Looks like its the alternator (do you call it that when its inside then engine? I've always called those dynamo (yeah same thing)). I'm only getting about 0.6-1.0v out of it (anyone know the actual voltage its suppossed to produce?).

Anyone have a spare unit I can buy? or know where I can get a 2nd hand one? Rang Atomic Wreckers but they had nothing. Looking to do this on the cheap as I wasn't even supposed to purchase this bike seeing as I'm saving for a wedding...but somethings are more important.:innocent:

Does anyone know whether its generally the coil thats gone (so I can just get it rewound) or whether something else fries?

F5 Dave
28th November 2006, 14:21
as think I said on other thread ring that chap Halsely & think he has said he has a rig to test everything, send it up he will diagnose no doubt.

davereid
29th November 2006, 21:51
The alternator is easy to test if you have a multimeter. Put it on a highish range - say 200 volt AC.
Your alternator has 3 windings,
1=black.red wire and its pair red.white wire.
2=yellow wire and other yellow wire (Changes colour to Black.yellow & white once past the alternator connector)
3=crankshaft position sensor red wire and green wire.

Unplug the multi pin plug that goes into the alternator.
Spin the engine with the plug out to get highest revs you can.
winding 1 should have about 60v AC at 4000 rpm. You wont be able to crank it that fast, but you should still see a healthy 15-20v.
winding 2 should have 16 v AC at 4000 rpm - once again you should see 6-9 v AC.

Then move meter to OHMS
Pair 1 = 25 to 40 ohms
Pair 2 = 1 to 3 ohms
Any wire of any pair to EARTH = infinite


If you see more or less the above readings your alternator is likely to be OK. The fault may be the crank position sensor, the coil or the $$CDI which is also the rectifier and voltage regulator.

Good luck !

P.S. check the obvious - if it has had a new coil fitted are all the wires on/is the coil earthed/ is the HT lead OK and is it screwed in properly/ is the spark plug OK