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jade
25th November 2006, 18:19
Ok so My bikes been getting its framed straightened the last month or so,
the day I stripped it down it was running fine, putting it back together today, all electrics are working (lights/speedo)
My only problem being I have no spark atm ?
Killswitch is not on and I cant figure out what It could be, Ive changed all the fuses and still no go,
How can I test some things to diagnose and remedy the problem? I have a multimeter but dont really know how to use it,...
Better yet, Does anybody with some electric knowledge live on the North Shore and could possible come to my house tomorow (Sunday) and help me out ?

xwhatsit
26th November 2006, 12:12
Get new sparkplugs. I've heard people like Ixion say a million times, first thing on a 2-stroke is swap the plugs. Plus, I was having a problem with no spark on my bike, swapped the plug, and it was happily sparking away. Sitting around for a month without sparking and probably covered in gunk is probably not good for the electrodes.

The other one is the HT leads. Check they're securely attached to the CDI (when the frame was straightened was everything removed from the frame?). I'm not sure of a method to test HT leads properly, apart from just continuity testing. Somebody with more auto electrical knowledge can probably help you there.

jade
26th November 2006, 19:00
thanx for your help but I got it sorted, 17 hours I worked on the bike this weekend, but I got it finished
na frame wasnt stripped, rolling chassis plus engine plus wiring loom went to the shop, turned out it was a blown fuse, which Id already checked - the spare was a dud as well, as well as a small black box with 2 plugs going into it were only half connected, everythings all g now, the only problem is the brake light is permanantly on atm... !

xwhatsit
26th November 2006, 20:11
Oh man I hate it when that happens! Fixing up an old tube amp of a friends a few years back... couldn't work out why it wasn't working, replaced the valve, put a new one in, still didn't work. Was stuck into the thing for hours with a multimeter until I built a little test circuit for the tube and worked out that the replacement was stuffed too. Arse.

That said, that little black box sounds like your CDI (modern version of ignition coils), only being half connected probably didn't help, and I don't know much about auto electrics but it's possible that that being incorrectly wired up could've caused fuse to blow the first and second times.

Brake light stuck on? Sounds odd if the wiring loom wasn't touched. How is a brake light activated on bikes anyway? Microswitches? Could be that when they straightened the frame they disturbed something to do with the activation mechanism? Of course, if the CDI was unplugged it looks like your wiring might have been disturbed anyway. Good luck.