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View Full Version : Fork Seal leaking.... oh brother!



Antallica
17th July 2004, 16:42
Hey people, I discovered while I was visiting Frosty yestersay that my left fork seal was slightly lifting... thought 'oh bugger' however it wasn't leaking.

After coming home from Auck this morning I've noticed that it indeed has started leaking slowly when pressure is added. So I'll need to have that fixed.

I've pushed the black ring (which I assume is the seal?) back down to remove the lift, but it seems to still leak a little.

Anyone have any tips on how I could fix myself, or what cost could be to have it all checked and redone?
Not really keen to go out on it atm.

Cheers, Ants

k14
17th July 2004, 16:59
So is the fork seal actually leaking or is it something else? The black things you can see at the top of the forks are the dust seals, the fork seals are under that.

Changing the fork seals isn't too hard if you have the right tools and a mate to give you a hand. The first time I did them, it took about 5 or 6 hours, so that is just a rough indication of how long it might take.

If you got a mechanic to do it, it would probably cost about $15 for fork seals, $15 for fork oil and $50-$75 for labour, give or take. So it is relatively cheap to do yourself and isn't too technical. The hardest thing is getting the front off the ground. When I did mine I put a ratchet tie down over a beam in the roof of my gargre and winched up the front of my bike. It isn't the best way but does the trick. I assume you don't have a front stem stand, that is definately the easiest way to do it.

Hope you get it fixed.

riffer
17th July 2004, 17:04
Hi Ants,

fork seals are a piece of cake. I definitely recommend you attempt them yourself.

Tools required:

1. A scissor jack to put under your bike to hold it off the ground (or race stands if you are well financed).
2. Spanners, socket wrenches, screwdrivers.
3. A mate to help you.
4. A container to hold the old fork oil
5. A small ruler to measure the distance between the top of the fork and where the oil comes up to.
6. Torque wrench

Parts needed:

1. New bottle of fork oil, either 10 weight or 20 weight.
2. New fork seals

Here's what you do:

1. Jack up the bike (I put the stand under the exhaust collector on my bike - its tough enough to hold the bike up.)
2. Undo the brake calipers and take them off (I usually take out the pads - its easier that way) - you only have one disk at the front don't you - half the work :)
3. Take off the front wheel, and lean it up somewhere that it won't fall over.
4. Undo the bolts that hold the forks in the bottom triple clamps.
5. Undo the bolts that hold the forks in the top triple clamps.
6. Slide the forks out.
7. CAREFULLY undo the top of the fork (It will shoot out across the room if you don't watch it) and remove the spring and place them both somewhere safe.
8. Pour the old fork oil out. Pump the fork up and down to get it to come out.
9. Using a blunt screwdriver CAREFULLY lever off the dust seal. If you do this carefully you can use it again afterwards. However expect to fuck it up and get a new one. They are cheap.
10. There is a clip under the dust seal - you can take this out with the screwdriver.
11. Then use the screwdriver to rip the oil seal out. Doesn't matter if you completely munt it 'cause you are replacing it.
12. Put the new seal in. Easiest way to do this is with a piece of plastic pipe that's just larger in diameter than your chrome tube. WT and I used the old oil seal on the top of the new seal and banged on the old seal.
13. Push the fork all the way down and pour in the oil. Pour in enough so that it comes to the correct distance below the top of the fork when it is pushed down. I don't know the spec for your bike, or if you have to measure with the spring in or not.. Someone else will know.
14. Put the spring back in, if it isn't in already.
15. You need your mate to help you here. Put the spring down with the fork top thingie and get your mate to turn the fork so that it threads down onto it.
16. Do the same for the other fork.
17. Put the forks back on the bike. Tighten all the nuts finger tight.
18. Put the wheel back on.
19. Put the brakes back on (put the pads back in).
20. Torque up all of your nuts to correct spec (or bloody tight if you don't know the spec).
21. Check everything is tight and there are no bits left.
22. Check it AGAIN.
23. Get your mate to check it.

24. Then get on your bike and ride!!!!

Hope this helps.

Simon

riffer
17th July 2004, 17:07
Oops forgot to give you instructions on how to remove the front fender.

But I'm sure you can work that out for yourself.

Best done before you remove the forks ;)

Antallica
17th July 2004, 17:14
Phwoar, wish I had one of you guys to help me with this..... and I only just got back to Whangas today!

Cheers for the guide celtic, I'll print it out... I'm a bit sheepish about trying it myself but I guess it can't be as hard as I think if you guys can explain it to me :D I'll just need to swot up more on how to remove the fork before I rip in and bugger it.

Now all I need to do is scab a jack off a mate.

riffer
17th July 2004, 18:44
Now all I need to do is scab a jack off a mate.
Any old scissor jack from a car is fine, Ants. Or you could even use the old "rope suspended from the gargre ceiling" trick.

I've even used that to pull out a 454 chev motor out of a '62 Bel Air.

Of course, the gargre roof was about 6 inches lower after we pulled the motor out ;)

A bike is a LOT lighter.

DEATH_INC.
17th July 2004, 21:56
I always pull the forks apart and clean em out/inspect inside too.
If yer down here again you can bring them/the bike here and I'll give yer a hand.Or if ya get stuck halfway through you're welcome to gimme a call and I can prolly help out on the phone.....027 2185505.

Antallica
17th July 2004, 23:35
Cheers for the offer Death, but I don't think I really want to mission a ride back down in case it's my last on her. Shite & I might have to get my ass back to Auck this week coming. Not sure if I can have her fixed come Wed at least.

But she seems to be doing ok for now (up to the shops).

Posh Tourer :P
18th July 2004, 10:34
Cheers for the offer Death, but I don't think I really want to mission a ride back down in case it's my last on her. Shite & I might have to get my ass back to Auck this week coming. Not sure if I can have her fixed come Wed at least.

But she seems to be doing ok for now (up to the shops).

Unless it is leaking very badly, it shouldnt be dangerous to ride, should it?

Milky
18th July 2004, 10:48
Unless it is leaking very badly, it shouldnt be dangerous to ride, should it?
I guess it depends what side the disc is on... if it is leaking so fast that it runs out as you ride, just tie a rag around the fork staunchion (sp?) and that will soak up the worst of it:niceone: should be fine though

riffer
18th July 2004, 10:58
Unless it is leaking very badly, it shouldnt be dangerous to ride, should it?
Ask Jim2 about that - he followed me over the Rimutakas when my fork seals had burst.

I found out that with the oil leaking out at a furious rate the forks were diving whenever I put the brakes on or decelerated, and this was having the effect of shortening my wheelbase.

End result: Every time I went into a corner I ended up on the centreline before the apex, instead of heading towards the centreline. Scary stuff.

To add to that, leaking oil got into my brake pads, ruining them.

Posh Tourer :P
18th July 2004, 11:17
Ask Jim2 about that - he followed me over the Rimutakas when my fork seals had burst.

I found out that with the oil leaking out at a furious rate the forks were diving whenever I put the brakes on or decelerated, and this was having the effect of shortening my wheelbase.

End result: Every time I went into a corner I ended up on the centreline before the apex, instead of heading towards the centreline. Scary stuff.

To add to that, leaking oil got into my brake pads, ruining them.

Burst is different to leaking.... I was imagining traces of oil on the staunchons, not dripping oil on the road....

Antallica
18th July 2004, 19:36
Well I've been out on it today. It seems to have stopped leaking when pressure is put on it since I pushed the dust seal back on flat. Hopefully it hasn't lost all the oil, the shock is just slippery where it comes out of the fork. The disc is on the other side so that's alright.

I haven't really noticed much difference in handling so far although it felt like arse this morning.... but I think I was just making myself believe it was fooked royally. I don't think I've got it as bad as you celtic... brake and decell seem slightly shittier but not that bad.

Once I have an estimate on cost I'll have to get it done at the shop ASAP, as I haven't really got the time to do it lesiurely myself. My rear is looking a bit shabby, might have to get that done as well. Looks like good old WINZ will have to pay for this, was hoping to stay off the dole but looks like I have no choice now. Poo.

Cheers for all your help guys, I'll certainly do it myself next time. Perhaps I'll stay in the shop and watch the guy do the work and learn.

jrandom
19th July 2004, 10:14
Any old scissor jack from a car is fine, Ants. Or you could even use the old "rope suspended from the gargre ceiling" trick.

I've even used that to pull out a 454 chev motor out of a '62 Bel Air.

Jeepers. A 454 chev wouldn't be a lightweight.

Few weeks ago I pulled a 3.5 Rover V8 out with a 4-by-4 under a length of chain around the block. I hauled on one end, another chap hauled on the other (we didn't need to keep the car, just the engine). Didn't really think of hitching anything over the gargre roof beams, but then I don't think anybody had the nerve to back down and appear less than up-for-it after someone suggested yanking it out by hand.

I had bruises on my forearms for days after that.

Paul in NZ
19th July 2004, 10:48
The method described is good but do a little research (like buy the manual) first as sometimes there are little traps with specific bikes...

ie. Moto Guzzi, like a lot of bikes use a cartridge damper inside the fork. The oil is only for lubrication... A bit of leaking is not really an issue. However, there are always a few differences that need allowing for. Don't stress though..

As Celtic has pointed out, it's all usually very simple and logical. (well it is once you broke everything and finally see how it works)

Don't whack stuff with bigger hammers if it won't fit. It's all designed to go together easily, if it won't, you are doing something wrong. Take a big breath, look at the problem and ask questions...

Drink beer

Look again....

Drink more beer

The answer will arrive.....

pete376403
19th July 2004, 11:03
Jeepers. A 454 chev wouldn't be a lightweight.

Few weeks ago I pulled a 3.5 Rover V8 out with a 4-by-4 under a length of chain around the block. I hauled on one end, another chap hauled on the other (we didn't need to keep the car, just the engine). Didn't really think of hitching anything over the gargre roof beams, but then I don't think anybody had the nerve to back down and appear less than up-for-it after someone suggested yanking it out by hand.

I had bruises on my forearms for days after that.

Rovers (and their Oldsmobile parents) are light (relatively), being aluminium. Big block Chevs are about 100 pounds heavier than the small blocks. (Which are still a lot heavier than the Rovers

riffer
19th July 2004, 12:27
Jeepers. A 454 chev wouldn't be a lightweight.

Few weeks ago I pulled a 3.5 Rover V8 out with a 4-by-4 under a length of chain around the block. I hauled on one end, another chap hauled on the other (we didn't need to keep the car, just the engine). Didn't really think of hitching anything over the gargre roof beams, but then I don't think anybody had the nerve to back down and appear less than up-for-it after someone suggested yanking it out by hand.

I had bruises on my forearms for days after that.
Actually I should amend my statement a touch. We used a block and tackle, not rope to pull out the big block. But we connected it to the garge roof.

In fact my gargre has an old seat belt connected to the roof for that very reason.

And a big block Chev weighs at least half a tonne. :sweatdrop

Antallica
26th July 2004, 23:12
Well it's been running fine enough since it started leaking, no noticable handling difference so I don't think it's wrecked the handling yet. Stopped leaking so it must have run out of oil but I have no idea, probably not though.

I'm thinking if I come down to Auck on it (very cautiously of course as usual), would anyone be keen (who's done it before) on helping me do it at their place? Colemans or whoever don't have seals etc. in store do they? The dealer here said they needed to wait 2-3 days for the seals to arrive.

May be able to flick some beers for the trouble if I can afford it as well :)

Antallica
27th July 2004, 21:17
Anyone keen to help me out?

Antallica
27th July 2004, 21:23
I always pull the forks apart and clean em out/inspect inside too.
If yer down here again you can bring them/the bike here and I'll give yer a hand.Or if ya get stuck halfway through you're welcome to gimme a call and I can prolly help out on the phone.....027 2185505.
Hey Death, I think it might be a good idea to save the enormous service cost and have you help me. You keen mate?

When could you be avalible? I am ready anytime as long as I can get the needed parts as soon as I have the cash. I'll email Colemans etc. to see if they have anything in stock.

scumdog
28th July 2004, 10:18
Watch how much you "wobble" the bike if you use the scissors-jack method, I prefer the seat-belt-over-the-beam and one or two of those ratchet-ties you can get from the Warehouse, I know it's more money but you will find them handy for any future jobs too.

The bike may still swing around (if you have some ingenuity you can fix that - but they don't sell tubes of ingenuity at the Warehouse! :bleh: ) and at least the bike won't fall on you-or the ground :doh:

vifferman
28th July 2004, 10:32
Ah - just a slight point. Celtic said use 10wt or 20wt fork oil. Usually it's only 5 wt or 7.5wt! so it would pay to see what's recommended for your bike. Synthetic ATF is also a good substitute.

For older bikes, if the forks haven't been maintained for a while (like mine), the erl's likely to be pretty cruddy, due to dust, dirt, moisture and various worn bits of suspension, so a good flushing with kero or something (then rinsing with fork fluid) is a good idea.

Dr Bob
28th July 2004, 13:27
I have replace fork seals on both the XV and the XJ, but because they seem to be related then anything I learnt on these may not be very generalisable.

One trick was to use an old bit of broom handle (albeit quite a thick bit) that gets whacked down the fork tube to hold the bolt still when you undo the fork from the bottom. I suppose this is the bit that varies greatly between bikes.

The second trick is quite simple really, if you have a centre stand, then keeping the front end in the air is as simple as keeping weight on the back of the bike. Last time I use a rachet tie down to pull the sissy bar to an immovable object on the floor (the brace on the workbench).

And one last warning: document the order and position of stuff as you dismantle, for example the springs on my bike go one way up (tight coils to the top), and remembering where washers etc go is always a good thing.

curious george
28th July 2004, 18:59
When you down ant?
Give me a call on PM if I can help

Antallica
28th July 2004, 21:40
We'll see what happens.... shock is starting to bounce a bit more since the rain has been here. Need a new Pirelli rear so I might just stick with the shop.

DEATH_INC.
29th July 2004, 14:45
sorry bud,haven't checked here for a day or 2......
I'm home most weekends,some afternoons,I'm happy to help you out if yer need it.
Try mt eden m/cycles for the seals,he's got a pretty good range(09)3031960
pm me when you wanna do it and we'll see what we can arrange