Battery charger in Hamilton / help advice - bike wont start

[samwp]

Hey I'm having problems with my bike not starting.

Heard the factory battery is shit.

Can see corrosion on the + terminal in the battery but its got 10 - 12v ?

I'm part Scottish so I don't want to buy a new battery especially if it is something else like dodgy wiring or poked charging circuit but bump starting is getting old and not proving a hit with the ladies.

o yea I got it to start of a car battery so the starter motor works at least.

and anyone know of a place that does cheap batts in the area or have a spare and are feeling generous :D

[Ixion]

If the battery can only produce 10-12V it's stuffed. Fully charged battery should be 13 - 14 volts.

[shaneh]

It may not be a faulty battery, could be a faulty charging system. If you can start the bike, put a voltmeter across the battery. You should see approx 13v (more than 12v anyway). If you do, then the bike is trying to charge the battery, so your charging system is probably OK. If that's the case, then check the battery condition. Is it sealed or unsealed ? Can you top up the fluid levels (distilled or rain water, not tap water).
If you get less than 13v at the battery while the bike is running then the charging system is likely faulty. Don't bin the battery yet. Seek more advice specific to your bike.
Keep in mind, while testing the battery voltage, give the bike some throttle. Don't do these tests at idle, sometimes you will only get low volts from the charging system at idle and so you will falsely diagnose a bad charging system. No need to move the bike, just give it 1/4 throttle.

[shaneh]

If you've got the tools, you should also remove both battery terminal leads, clean the battery posts and leads then refit. Make sure the leads have a tight fit onto the battery posts. Also clean the top of the battery. A major build up a crap on the top of the battery around the positive terminal could in rare cases cause the battery to discharge slowly by itself.

[samwp]

yeap buggered battery.

cheers to Titanium for the help diagnosing it and the jumper kit, great community KB is :D


What I learnt:

grab a multimeter ($20 Warehouse, DSE, nick one etc) and put it across the battery terminals

-12v+ - keys off - less and the battery is poked

-13 - 14v engine running above idle? charging circuit is charging

- Jump start with another battery or car WITH THE ENGINE OFF - starter motor works, could still have dodgy wiring - cant get enough amps through from bike battery, but can from the bigger battery.

-Batteries just stop working, especially crap ones :P

-Check battery throughly for corrosion

-Apply logic, ask questions

<edit>
-Headlight was getting duller too.
</edit>

[samwp]

Things I learnt cont.

14-BS is a standard bike battery but exide will call em ct14b4 and other companies call them any of the following

TX14-BS
YTX14-BS
CTX14-BS
CNCBTX14-BS

I also found a battery real cheap from a place on Commerce St in hamilton -$70~75 but didn't make note of the name.

[MotoKuzzi]

Can any one tell me if it's safe for the ECU, to charge a battery still in the bike, leads connected.

[Owl]

Can any one tell me if it's safe for the ECU, to charge a battery still in the bike, leads connected.

I asked my local auto sparky this and he said it would be fine. He also said "just don't try to start it with the charger connected". I've never had an issue and I do it often at work and home!

[Paul in NZ]

Can any one tell me if it's safe for the ECU, to charge a battery still in the bike, leads connected.

DON"T try this with your Guzzi. The ecu in the early ones is VERY prone to blowing if there is any spike at all. Don't bump start it or jump start it either unless it has the modification to protect the ECU.

[rat biker 08]

Have had same prob done test . best go to bike shop spend the bucks . you and your ride will be happy.:2thumbsup

[MotoKuzzi]

DON"T try this with your Guzzi. The ecu in the early ones is VERY prone to blowing if there is any spike at all. Don't bump start it or jump start it either unless it has the modification to protect the ECU.
Cheers for that, I haven't needed to charge the battery as yet but won't take the risk of doing it in the bike now:Oops:

[scumdog]

If you've got the tools, you should also remove both battery terminal leads, clean the battery posts and leads then refit. Make sure the leads have a tight fit onto the battery posts. Also clean the top of the battery. A major build up a crap on the top of the battery around the positive terminal could in rare cases cause the battery to discharge slowly by itself.

Wot 'e sed.

Use baking soda disolved in warm water to flush the terminals and get rid of corrosion.