After market cans?

[Drunken Monkey]

Thanks for the good idea, Deano!

[vifferman]

Yes, but they're not aftermarket, just vandalised.
Damned vandals, like those ones that crept into my garage one night, and drilled the baffle out of my VFRs muffler....

[Drunken Monkey]

bugger, there's always an option someone forgets to cover...

[Deano]

Yes, but they're not aftermarket, just vandalised.
Damned vandals, like those ones that crept into my garage one night, and drilled the baffle out of my VFRs muffler....

Might as well regard as aftermarket FS - they were modified 'after' release onto the 'market'.

I'll attempt to put up a good (if not biased) argument for just about anything.

[750Y]

i'd fit a full aftermarket race system if i had the money to burn, lighter, smaller & more power.
I sure can notice the quietness of a stock system on my gix compared to a certain other gix with full race system. the mrs can't hear me coming from a couple miles away anymore. I said to a neighbour I was into bikes & he said "I know I've heard You".

[vifferman]

Might as well regard as aftermarket FS - they were modified 'after' release onto the 'market'.I think they'll need a "Work in Progress" or "Prototype" category, as I'm not sure I'm quite done with them yet....

[Motu]

I have 11 motorcycles at the present time - one after market can (Supertrapp) on the XT400,on the XLV750 my own system (try buying one of those) but also silencers of my own manufacter,XS1 has aftermarket mufflers,spiked but similar noise to stock,PW50 has my system,namely a couple of lawn mower mufflers end to end,KT250 has original muffler with my own baffle,SL125 has an aftermarket job,similar noise to stock,TLR200 is stock and whisper quiet (fails noise test) TT225 has stock system but I will build my own muffler onto stuffed original system.All the rest (3) are stock.

So,where do I fit in that poll???

[Drunken Monkey]

So,where do I fit in that poll???

Take a stab...suprise us...

[Deano]

I think they'll need a "Work in Progress" or "Prototype" category, as I'm not sure I'm quite done with them yet....

Are you busy fitting a solenoid that opens and shuts an exhaust type silencing valve, or are they simply not loud enough yet. :eek5: :laugh:

[aff-man]

Baffle??????????? whats a baffle :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

[Kwaka-Kid]

where do i start? the second i get a bike with a stock can it gets hacksawed off and i go out to the shed and find something that fits! just finished building a carbon fibre baby for my little 400, 55mm straight thru is a bit much, 44mm is where it should be at (std exit hole is about 25mm!) so shes pretty loud and i think i could be loosing out on much needed back-pressure. but none the less it sounds the mutts and looks even better!

[vifferman]

Are you busy fitting a solenoid that opens and shuts an exhaust type silencing valve, or are they simply not loud enough yet.I think the ploogs need another trim, and while they're out I might monkey around with the internals (or is that 'infernals'?) If only I had a dremel tool or the like...
I do have a crowbar, for fine tweaking....<_<

[LB]

Neptunes for both my Ducs, and also on Hamish's GS1200SS. Remus on his R1100S.

[Motu]

shes pretty loud and i think i could be loosing out on much needed back-pressure.

Aaaahhhh!!!! I thought this sort of stuff was debunked in the 70s,do a little reshearch on exhaust theory - more noise is not faster,back pressure causes shit to come out your mouth.Pick up some new power bands at Whitcoulls on your way home.

[Kwaka-Kid]

huh? im not saying its going faster - the opposite, generally i thought you needed to maintain approx 300 ft per sec gas flow speed, and i think with my exhaust being so free flowing its not getting there.
also lack of backpressure i was taught creates the valves to heat up and you ca burn them or something along those lines - its the pressure of the gas that takes the heat away from them right?

[Motu]

KK,
Good,you do know some exhaust theory.Yep,300 ft per sec at max rpm is a good guideline,this is acheived with diameter of the pipe,if the pipe is too fat,gas speed goes down and power suffers everywhere,need more back pressure they say.Too small and top end suffers,but you pick up bottom end,typical factory pipe.Length of pipes is resonance tuning and is how old farts like me muck around with exhaust systems,there are formulas available anywhere,nice and easy on singles.

[riffer]

I'd like to rip out the baffles out of my fzr pipe, and it's too damn quiet and restrictive as hell.

I know fizzerman (WT's brother) has done it to his but he's hardly ever on kb. Does anyone know how to rip out the baffles on my fizzer with the original zorst on?

I guess it involves hacksawing the back off the zorst and pulling out the baffles. Then do you replace them with who-knows-what, and weld the back on to it again?

Anyone have a cost-neutral solution? I'd rather spend time than money on it, especially after spending the better part of $900 on the bike in the last month (money which, incidentally the CDFO insists we didn't actually have to start with).

I have all the tools except the welding gear which I guess I could borrow, beg or steal...

[vifferman]

I'd like to rip out the baffles out of my fzr pipe, and it's too damn quiet and restrictive as hell.

I know fizzerman (WT's brother) has done it to his but he's hardly ever on kb. Does anyone know how to rip out the baffles on my fizzer with the original zorst on?No, but ignorance never stopped me from pretending I knew stuff...
On my VFR, I too wanted more sound but had no financial madate to purchase anything. I sussed out the internals using a torch, then drilled a big hole through the main baffle using a large drill bit on a flexible shaft, then followed up with a coarse round bastard and a long wooden handle. Then instead of the gases coming up a pipe, being deflected off to the side of the first baffle, up the muffler, down the muffler, then up the muffler through the outlet, they mostly just went up the header pipe, through the hole, and out the outlet. It sounded OK, not as good as an aftermarket can, but deeper and raspier than stock. Of course, all this work had to be carried out after Mrs FS was asleep, as she strictly forbade me from "sabotaging the muffler" after one of the cans on my VF500 rusted out and I had to have some s/steel cans made by M/C Exhaust Specialists in Chch: their brief was "make it a bit less wussy". And it was very good too! Anyhoo - I digress. The hole that mysteriously appeared in my VFR's muffler made it run a bit leaner (less back pressure), which was very easily fixed by shimming the carb needles.
On the VTR, the pipes were vandalised by a previous owner, presumably by using a hole saw the diameter of the inside of the end caps (see http://www.burniemorgan.com/motorcycles/11nov00ride.html#bafflectomy)
I had plugs made to restore it to stock-looking mode (see http://community.webshots.com/album/88297322swwFNk) and my original plan to rivet or bolt these in wouldn't work, as they were about 1mm or so too small a diameter, so I stuck 'em in using high-temp silicon. Worked a treat, and makes them easy to remove too.

[Two Smoker]

Well my baffles "accidently" fell out........ But ive got an Arrow can hooked up for the RG at Colemans hehehe.....

[riffer]

OKay, I had a look at the bafflectomy. I'm a bit concerned that it might be a bit loud after that.
What potential difference is there to the sound if you pull out the whole baffle?

Do I need to put in a new pipe after taking out the whole baffle, or can you just leave it open like that?

Considering possibility of failing WOF here....

[riffer]

I'm also looking at getting a two brothers pipe cheap. Is that a better option, even if I have to weld it on to the old header pipe?

[vifferman]

You'll definitely fail the WOF with a bafflectomy, and you'll probably have to do some retuning whatever option you pursue. The 2-Bros may be a good idea, but even that may fail the WOF at some places.
The thing is, apart from styling, materials, quality of construction, there's stuff all difference in general principle between aftermarket pipes. All of them basically have the same sort of perforated core, with muffling around that. Back-pressure is generally taken care of by a reduction in internal diameter at about the place where the first baffle (or kink in the muffler, in some cases) is in the OEM muffler. This helps to reflect the pressure wave back towards the zorst port.
The OEM ones generally have some system involving tubes and baffles, so the gases have to take a circuitous journey from header to outlet, often going back and forth a few times.

[Kwaka-Kid]

KK,
Good,you do know some exhaust theory.Yep,300 ft per sec at max rpm is a good guideline,this is acheived with diameter of the pipe,if the pipe is too fat,gas speed goes down and power suffers everywhere,need more back pressure they say.Too small and top end suffers,but you pick up bottom end,typical factory pipe.Length of pipes is resonance tuning and is how old farts like me muck around with exhaust systems,there are formulas available anywhere,nice and easy on singles.
hmm, ive been trying to learn as much as poss as far as exhausts go but man it gets way outta hand sometimes and there are ppl with differing opinions! But i get what your saying exactly!, so its all about moving the peak power etc and where u want the power. Yeah my old man was a bit of an exhausts man way back when - and said the singles were great - he loved tweaking around with different mufflers/systems as it was easier then having 4 cyls to balance.

My one question that still stands to anyone that knows something about exhausts etc is exactly WHAT will happen if i take my exhaust off all together etc and run around like that? aside from it being very noisey etc and affecting power, what is the detrimental effect against the engine? so far nobody has ever answerd it aside from my old man saying you burn valves, but i just love to hear other opinions or even one to confirm this, nobody knows damnit!

[Milky]

I'd also like to know if it really matters what the internals of the pipe are... ie can I just weld a perforated plate onto the back end of the exhaust pipe, or will that create some weird resonance stuff and destroy the power curve? In essence, how forceful can you be with muffler/header etc mods before it has a noticable effect on the performance?

[Motu]

That brings back a funny memory KK - back when we used to drive around in crap cars we picked up for next to nothing...my mate reckoned that when your exhaust flange blew out it would stuff the motor real quick,and he was right...every car he had that blew a flange gasket was soon totaly stuffed - but I reckoned the flange gasket was only the first thing to crap out,the motor was going to go no matter what.Step on a cats tail causes brake failure.

Milky - rough and readies ok,a butchered job can be spot on,done by the book a total stuff up.With resonances if they are all higeldy pigeldy no worries,when it all lines up it can kill power or give a good boost.Change direction 3 times,cheap,easy,and it works - like turn it around,then back again,oh that's twice,but you know what I mean,car mufflers are still done like that.

[Kwaka-Kid]

yeah motu thats the way my old man used to design his! but it could go thru quite a number of back and forths and hed have changable 1 bolt baffles to try out different exit holes and styles.
Interesting though... Lack of backpressure hmmm, stil ldoesnt answer my question though does it motu? only contributes to the need of a straight answer!
hmm, milky what you could experiment with too is just the exit hole size using a washer, or you put it usually ahead of the muffler not at the very tail end, i exp with the CB250 like that as it had a straight out megafone, but a washer midway in the zaust seemed to help alot in terms of power where i mostly used it (down low and midrange)

[Motu]

Ok,to answer the question - no,I don't think so,check out aircraft - WWII Spitfires for example,they had very short header pipes,straight off the head,the exhaust gases have more energy that way and actualy improved thrust,kinda jet powered like.Working with resonance tuning the figures give very short header pipes,you just double the length to fit a bike.Check out a dragster from the 60s,very short header pipes,say about 12inches long - double that and you got a bike header pipe.It's also about disapating energy,when the gases turn in a muffler they also expand in a chamber,then get put down a pipe again,then another expansion and into a smaller pipe,less energy at each turn.

Actualy the guys who make aftermarket exhaust systems are being tricky and playing with our minds - your bike now sounds nice and makes more power - obvious eh.No...we have two totaly different things going down our exhaust pipe - the hot exhaust gases themselves,that's what we want to travel at 300 ft per sec.The other thing is the sound - a sonic energy pulse traveling at around the speed of sound,they are not really connected at all,but it's hard to seperate them in our mind.Tuning an exhaust system is complicated and the finishing touch is the most important - making it sound nice.These days that means taking out the high frequency noise to give a nice deep throated throb,it could sound like a Vespa or a Ferrari,it doesn't matter really - but it does to the customer!

The mufflers on my XLV750 are different from anything else you'll see around - inside the exhaust flows over helmholtz (sp?) chambers,these can be tuned to take out certain frequencies,next time I make some I'll try and make them tunable from the outside,then we can have fun at parties.Being a supposed desert racer I have picked on camel fart as my desired sound,well...I kinda like it....

[wkid_one]

Supertrapp mufflers are an example of ones where you can actively tune the pipe to suit the application.

[geoffm]

.Tuning an exhaust system is complicated and the finishing touch is the most important - making it sound nice.These days that means taking out the high frequency noise to give a nice deep throated throb,it could sound like a Vespa or a Ferrari,it doesn't matter really - but it does to the customer!

The mufflers on my XLV750 are different from anything else you'll see around - inside the exhaust flows over helmholtz (sp?) chambers,these can be tuned to take out certain frequencies,next time I make some I'll try and make them tunable from the outside,then we can have fun at parties.Being a supposed desert racer I have picked on camel fart as my desired sound,well...I kinda like it....

For those who want to get tek-er-nical, there is a program called "silencer" which will give you the sound output through the octaves of different sized exhaust chambers given an input spectrum, so you can tune the chamber size to clip certain frequencies. Free too
There is also a program that will give you the octave sound power levels via a mike and soundcard. Can't remember the name of it right now...
Geoff

[moko]

I always keep mine stock these days.Or at least legal,too much hassle at M.O.T. time(same as W.O.F.) for a start as tampered with or replacement exhaust without the right stamp on is an instant fail.Plus now I`m older and debatably wiser I reckon the less noise you make the more you get away with.My Fazer gives out a really neat low growl at high speed and I can razz along at any speed I want without attracting loads of attention while there are plenty of guys around with full-race systems that you can hear coming for ages before they arrive,talk about asking for trouble.Also it`s pretty selfish,just finished work and got home at 3a.m.,dont think my neighbours would appreciate my Yams acoustic qualities if I woke them all up at that time,there used to be some wanker on a big V-twin of some kind that used to regularly shoot through here at 2a.m.-ish at the weekend,sounded like Armageddon,I`m a biker and the prat pissed me off let alone "civilians",this is a built up area and he didn`t do a whole lot for the image of bikers amongst the general population

[NordieBoy]

My one question that still stands to anyone that knows something about exhausts etc is exactly WHAT will happen if i take my exhaust off all together etc and run around like that? aside from it being very noisey etc and affecting power, what is the detrimental effect against the engine? so far nobody has ever answerd it aside from my old man saying you burn valves, but i just love to hear other opinions or even one to confirm this, nobody knows damnit!

You would end up with a revver without as much torque as you could have.

Or am I talking out my arse again?

[pete376403]

I've experienced an exhaust pipe falling of the speedway bike, right up at the port and can confirm that the engine runs as flat as a wet turd. The blue flames look pretty, though. Even shortening the pipe can have a similar effect - just after mufflers were introduced in Speedway, there were regular occurences of the mufflers falling off, which shortened the pipe by about 450 -500 mm. In spite of being completely uncorked, the engines just did not run well at all.

[pete376403]

I'm the person on the poll whose bike is even quieter than stock - after the original Suzuki pipes rotted out I got a Cycleworks 4 -1 with the optional "quiet" baffle. Still loud though, and I couldn't stand the drone.
I replaced the "muffler" with a standard can from a CBR600. Now in theory the 1100 should be thoroughly constipated with a muffler from a motor nearly half the size, but my reasoning was the CBR probably makes its peak power up around 10K rpm, so the amount of flow at that speed is around what my 1100 flows at 5 - 6,000. It is nice and quiet - the air intake is louder - and power doesn't appear to have been affected much, an SV1000 rider was surprised to see me alongside at 180k, even though my bike was two up.

[Hitcher]

Yay Neptune, the Roman god of exhausts! I hear that he was a British bike fan as well (owns a Trident...)

[Milky]

I've experienced an exhaust pipe falling of the speedway bike, right up at the port and can confirm that the engine runs as flat as a wet turd. The blue flames look pretty, though. Even shortening the pipe can have a similar effect - just after mufflers were introduced in Speedway, there were regular occurences of the mufflers falling off, which shortened the pipe by about 450 -500 mm. In spite of being completely uncorked, the engines just did not run well at all.I tried running the CB125 with the full system off, and that sure killed any low range it might have had. Didnt get it started, but I assume if I had managed to it would have only wanted to run up around 10k rpm


Plus now I`m older and debatably wiser I reckon the less noise you make the more you get away with.My Fazer gives out a really neat low growl at high speed and I can razz along at any speed I want without attracting loads of attention while there are plenty of guys around with full-race systems that you can hear coming for ages before they arrive,talk about asking for trouble.Also it`s pretty selfish,just finished work and got home at 3a.m.,dont think my neighbours would appreciate my Yams acoustic qualities if I woke them all up at that timeThat was half the rationale for me wanting to make a change. I dont think my neighbours would appreciate it either... Including the bike nuts who live here and next door ;)


Milky - rough and readies ok,a butchered job can be spot on,done by the book a total stuff up.With resonances if they are all higeldy pigeldy no worries,when it all lines up it can kill power or give a good boost.Change direction 3 times,cheap,easy,and it works - like turn it around,then back again,oh that's twice,but you know what I mean,car mufflers are still done like that.

hmm, milky what you could experiment with too is just the exit hole size using a washer, or you put it usually ahead of the muffler not at the very tail end, i exp with the CB250 like that as it had a straight out megafone, but a washer midway in the zaust seemed to help alot in terms of power where i mostly used it (down low and midrange)seems like it will be best to just try it and see. The 'zorst doesnt sound greatly different with can on or can off, which makes me wonder a bit. I must measure the diameter of the pipes sometime too.
I do want to get a bit more down low/eliminate the flatspot there, because that is where it gets used most. I hardly ever take the bike up to 14k or whatever the red line is, so the extra HP of the 4-1+larger diameter isnt really that much use to me.
How did you fix this washer in place? I dont particularly want to weld if I am just going to make changes, and I am not sure what the metal would turn out like if I did :blink: Hopefully I can find something of a large enough size too. Any restrictions on the type of metal used? Stainless or aluminium would be best I am guessing...

[Kwaka-Kid]

well milks, i am sure i can say ur can is fine - 44m ID 2.5mm perf pipe between 320-450mm long is the norm for a 400cc performance muffler, but the pipe leading up to it could be too big... so yeah re: the washer, either you use a spring washer and it goes somewhere in the exhaust where it can lock and doesnt come any further out, or you just spot weld 2 spots onto it.. and shit yeah man if oyu dont have the right size i certainly should - and shit if not go to mitre 10 and spend 20c

[Omega1]

My ZX7R has a full Arrows system which sounds great and My Harley has stock standard mufflers for the moment.......:-)

[vifferman]

well milks, i am sure i can say ur can is fine - 44m ID 2.5mm perf pipe between 320-450mm long is the norm for a 400cc performance muffler, but the pipe leading up to it could be too big... so yeah re: the washer, either you use a spring washer and it goes somewhere in the exhaust where it can lock and doesnt come any further out, or you just spot weld 2 spots onto it.. and shit yeah man if oyu dont have the right size i certainly should - and shit if not go to mitre 10 and spend 20cThe position of the washer is important, and it should ideally be where the restriction in the stock pipe/muffler was, as this was positioned so that reverse pressure waves up the zorst pipe at low to medium revs pressurise the exhaust port and prevent the incoming charge going straight out of the cylinder. It will probably be near the header end of the muffler.

[Cajun]

The position of the washer is important, and it should ideally be where the restriction in the stock pipe/muffler was, as this was positioned so that reverse pressure waves up the zorst pipe at low to medium revs pressurise the exhaust port and prevent the incoming charge going straight out of the cylinder. It will probably be near the header end of the muffler.


hey firestorm where you pipes to loud with the final baffle taking out, thinking of doing it to wifes bike?

[svs]

Did have two-bros can on, but failed WOF for being too loud :( Now got standard can back on, and you can feel the difference. Not much difference in power/top speed, but the engine doesn't rev nearly as freely with the restrictive stock pipe.

[vifferman]

hey firestorm where you pipes to loud with the final baffle taking out, thinking of doing it to wifes bike?Are you kidding?!?
I got sick of everyone (and I mean EVERYONE) turning to see what was coming down the street. We're talking HD drag pipes loud here...
I fixed them because (a) I had no show of getting a warrant, unless I shopped around, (b) they were annoyingly loud for me, let alone anyone else, and (c) I was afraid of the attention they'd attract, which was important given I go past the HP HQ twice a day...
Now they are loud, rather than LOUD!!
There was a pair of OEM cans for a VTR on TradeMe that had been 'professionally' gutted and had the endcaps put back on. There was also a pair of Scorpions that I would've bought if I could.

I wouldn't bafflectomy the wife's bike if I were you. But if you ignore me and do it anyway, I can point you to the links on how to do it, and tell you what to do about getting plugs to quieten it down again and make it look 'stock'.

[Cajun]

Did have two-bros can on, but failed WOF for being too loud :( Now got standard can back on, and you can feel the difference. Not much difference in power/top speed, but the engine doesn't rev nearly as freely with the restrictive stock pipe.

oh okay, we just gonna do that baffletokmy thing where you remove the back chamber??

you style have the two bros?? you interested in selling them? what type are they carbon/stanless?

[vifferman]

oh okay, we just gonna do that baffletokmy thing where you remove the back chamber?? Yeah, that's what mine had. The endcap is drilled out with a holesaw, then the last baffle tube is ripped out. The zorst gases then go up the main baffle tube, then out the end, instead of up, down, then up and out.
By the way, Cajun - the SV650 has only one muffler.

SVS: don't throw away the aftermarket can; you should be able to get it quietened down enough to keep the WOF guys happy, like I did with my norty vandalised mufflers.

[Cajun]

Yeah, that's what mine had. The endcap is drilled out with a holesaw, then the last baffle tube is ripped out. The zorst gases then go up the main baffle tube, then out the end, instead of up, down, then up and out.
By the way, Cajun - the SV650 has only one muffler.


oops should be reading before reply better.

Nah wife says she wants to make it louder, she had bike 2 years and its total stock apart from rebuilding the rear shock from new to lower the seat height by 4 cms so she can touch the ground better

Yep give us any info you have on doing, i have one site, but wasn't that good, any more info would be good

[svs]

Aftermarket can has found a happy home on the race bike. No noise probs there :) so it all worked out alright in the end.

Has anyone used the Quill pipes from the UK which are supposed to be road legal noise wise, but give you almost the same power increase as a race can?

[vifferman]

Nah wife says she wants to make it louder, she had bike 2 years and its total stock apart from rebuilding the rear shock from new to lower the seat height by 4 cms so she can touch the ground better

Yep give us any info you have on doing, i have one site, but wasn't that good, any more info would be goodThe best site is this:
http://www.burniemorgan.com/motorcycles/11nov00ride.html#bafflectomy

Some of the info is wrong (like it does result in a slight power increase, if you adjust the jetting), but it's not bad.

As for plugs to satisfy the spirit of the law if not the letter, what I did was went to a muffler shop, and asked them to weld up two plugs to a plan I drew. From memory, the outer pipe is 57mm (2 and a quarter inch) diameter by 60mm long, and the inner pipe was about an inch (25mm) by about 120mm long (now about 75mm). Welded between them at the inside end is a washer of sorts, and the inner pipe protrudes into the muffler. Thus you end up with two concentric pipes, joined at the end of the larger one by a washer or plate. Hard to explain in words, but easy to draw and to make.
The outer diameter of the plug is just slightly smaller than the end of the muffler, so I coated the outside of the plug with high temperature silicon, slid it in, and waited for it to cure. THen I ran the bike, removed the plug again, cut some of the inner pipe off, and did this a few times until it sounded OK.

[Milky]

my exhaust has now had some modifications done to it. It is running much smoother, quieter, more efficiently - i think with much less fuel consumption too :2thumbsup

The solution was to fit and test little things until they came out the way I wanted them... I started out with pressing a washer at the end of the exhaust pipe, just before the can. This was about 30mm or so internal diameter, fitting into a pipe - which I forgot to measure :doh: Outside diameter is ~52mm, so it is rather too large for a 400 i think.
This made quite a difference, and removed a flatspot from 6-8k and made a deadspot at 4-5k. Much improved delivery through the middle of the power band up until near redline, where it wasnt quite as responsive. I dont get to 14k too often, so overall it was a great improvement. Still sounded nice, just took a little of the resonant bass out, and made the pulses from the end of the can slighlty less distinct.

Thought I'd try it with a bit of perforated pipe that we had left over from another muffler 'bafflectomy.' I think the pipe was about 35mm diameter. I really should have measured these things before it got welded in place... :stupid: You can see it in the photos anyway and make your own judgement. Stuck that on the end of the large washer with a locating pin to hold it centralised in the exhaust, tried it again...
Found it made the deadspot at 4-5k was less so, more of a roughspot instead. Other than that, much the same as before.

Thought to myself: "If restriction improved it, then obviously, more of the same will make it even better" :niceone: So I found a little washer that happened to fit the end of the perforated pipe, tacked it on with some locating pins again, and tried once more.
The result was a considerable decrease in roughness from 4-5, greatly increased torque, and an overall increase in usable power. Yay for intuition :msn-wink: It is different in sound, less of a bassy thump... More like a 400 than a 600/750 now. Still howls nicely higher up in the revs :) . I can hear the camchain and the valves at idle, which is reasurring... I hope the reduced volume takes some attention away from my less than perfect changes, possible law breaking and general misdemeanours too <_<

Pics of the finished article follow. Not a work of art, but it aint going to be seen by anyone apart from the exhaust pixies, so I figure it doesnt really matter...
Thanks to KK for inspiring the maori in me :msn-wink: without you, I would never have started...

[Kwaka-Kid]

hhaha WICKED mate! thats has like 10x the workmanship anything of mine ever has!

Top effort and exactly what i need to do to current muffler to get more usable power. or any at al.

And milks mate - pllease tell me that muffler has some muffling? Its not dead hollow with only metal in it is it? you did buy some of that muffler mat right?

[Dodgyiti]

When I first purchased my bike it came with ' shadow' mufflers.
In other words- When the sun shines on me bike, the shadow gives the impression that it has a full muffled exhaust system, and that is as far as it goes. I take the bike to the place where I bought it from for WOF's, if they passed it before I bought it, then they have to keep passing it? :niceone:
[earplugs essential]

[brit_vtr]

Hello,

I have a Firestorm and run a single exhaust on the right hand side, it sounds a little quieter than my old twin Vipers ....but the bottom end and midrange punch is absolutely fantastic.
Add a 15 tooth front sprocket and it monos in the 1st 4 gear no trouble.
As for the sound well it's just sooo nice, deep like a Duke but rises to a 4 cylinder howl.

[Milky]

hhaha WICKED mate! thats has like 10x the workmanship anything of mine ever has!

Top effort and exactly what i need to do to current muffler to get more usable power. or any at al.

And milks mate - pllease tell me that muffler has some muffling? Its not dead hollow with only metal in it is it? you did buy some of that muffler mat right?
The can has muffler wrap around the perforated pipe I guess. If it doesnt, then the guy I bought it off was telling lies... I havent taken it apart, so I wouldnt know for sure.

I bought nothing for this job.

[Kwaka-Kid]

wicked mate! thats the stuff! well my new carbon fibre exhaust just arrived! when i say new i mean scratched up and been down the road by some aussie but new to me and looks good enough for my standerds! so on it goes for raceday

[Firefight]

Just fitted my new Micron (last night at work), had a nice long ride home, Mangere to Pukekohe(via 22 and the waingaro springs), Shit is it cool, looks good, sounds good, and seems to have improved the overall perfomance a lot.

thanks Ducan @ Amps, for the good service and good advice.

F/F :crazy:

[SteveNZ]

I've got a Neptune can on my SV650. I had a removable restrictor made up for it to quieten it down a bit, as with my replacing the airbox with pods, it can get a bit loud when it's on-note (anything over 5500rpm) otherwise. The restrictor is one that Mark at Neptune makes, IIRC it was $70-ish. I had to go buy a decent drill bit to put the hole for the retaining screw - Mark actually gave me one, but it couldn't cut it (as it were). The fact I was using a budget drill probably didn't help.

I've even got a picture of my SV on his site, complete with the pretty orange/brown exhaust pipes that the SV develops...

Anyway, Mark is a top bloke to deal with, and the product is excellent. Looks good, sounds good. Gets rid of the big hole in the powerband around 5000rpm on the SV due to the poxy catalytic convertor...

[Zed]

Just fitted my new Micron...
Excellent, I look forward to seeing & hearing it...it's like riding a different bike eh!! :niceone:

[Sensei]

Straight through for me does the trick nicely
SENSEI

[SPORK]

So how illegal would it be to slap on a nice CF can? Would noise be the only restriction?

[vifferman]

So how illegal would it be to slap on a nice CF can? Would noise be the only restriction?
Apparently, the rules regarding zorsts are being (or have already been??) revised by the LTSA. Again. So who knows.
CF cans are somewhat trendy, but not particularly durable. Apart from requiring repacking, the CF becomes brittle, and is degraded by UV quite badly, discolouring and degrading.

Now that I've got a new bike, I should vote again on this. The VifFerraRi has a Staintune high-mount, with the spud installed. It's probably no louder than stock (one review I read of the stock VFR800 said the can was a too loud), but looks much nicer, and has a nice tone.
I've ridden it a few times without the spud, but it sounds... I dunno. Irritating, perhaps, and makes no discernible difference to performance.
The best sound apparently is obtained by taking the spud out, cutting the tail off, and reinstalling it. If I did that, I'd be in trouble with the vifferbabe, unless she didn't notice, which is possible. :shifty:

I must take the factory-fitted noise compliance sticker off the bike. It states that the bike has been tested and is less than 89dBA (IIRC), but also states what the ID number on the muffler is, if it was still there....
Best to remove it, so there is no possible "Ello, ello!" nonsense in the future if some bureaucrat looks for the ID. Staintune make compliance tags for their zorsts for the Australian states that require them, so I can always order one of those, if necessary. With the spud, it should pass any new regs anyway. Dunno 'bout the loud whining of the camgears though...:crazy:

[Coyote]

I'm getting a CBR400RR can for free and was planning to de-baffle it. Is that a stupid idea? Is there anything else I can do with this new pipe?

[Juan]

I have silmotor pipes on my F4Silmotor (http://www.silmotor.net/commerce/cat263.htm)

Loud as Feck.... Ear bleeding loud... I love 'em :rockon:

My Brutale is as std, makes a good noise anyway... induction roar is superb :2thumbsup

Fazer (FZ1) has a Remus carbon oval can, thought it was quiet untill lent bike to someone.... it's loud on full chat tho ok thru towns at low revs :wavey:

[Milky]

I'm getting a CBR400RR can for free and was planning to de-baffle it. Is that a stupid idea? Is there anything else I can do with this new pipe?

the problem you may run into there is although it will be freer flowing than standard, more often than not it will sound like absolute shite - louder but the same tone as standard. It depends on the design of the baffling inside the muffler I guess, so all you can do is try it and see...

[Coyote]

the problem you may run into there is although it will be freer flowing than standard, more often than not it will sound like absolute shite - louder but the same tone as standard. It depends on the design of the baffling inside the muffler I guess, so all you can do is try it and see...
I'll give it a go. I'll let you know what it turns out like

[inlinefour]

Thanks for the good idea, Deano!

Unless its a sport bike for racing. I can't understand people who get off on farkin noisey rides....

[Rainbow Wizard]

KK,
Good,you do know some exhaust theory.Yep,300 ft per sec at max rpm is a good guideline,this is acheived with diameter of the pipe,if the pipe is too fat,gas speed goes down and power suffers everywhere,need more back pressure they say.Too small and top end suffers,but you pick up bottom end,typical factory pipe.Length of pipes is resonance tuning and is how old farts like me muck around with exhaust systems,there are formulas available anywhere,nice and easy on singles.

So do you or anyone else want to offer a QUALIFIED opinion on what to do to le Voxan's cans?
1200mm of 45mm ID pipes and 460mm long 90mm ID cans with a 25mm discharge. The first 90mm chamber is 160mm long with about a 37mm ID pipe that extends 120mm into the next chamber that has a multi-drilled (3mm? holes) disc in the end of it positioned about 200mm (this is the second chamber's length) beyond the first chamber's cap. The final chamber OR the final pipe is therefor about 300mm long, and as much as the last 150mm of that must be drilled to let some of the baffled air from the drilled disc to enter it (otherwise ther'ed be no point in drilling the disc).

Seems to me that if I drill a small hole in the first disc some unbaffled air will enter the final discharge pipe and make the bike just that little bit louder. Question is, what diameter do you recommend?
I'm guessing 6mm maximum. At the moment it sounds somewhere between a Honda and a Ducati, and I want a more Ducati-like note.
Tell all Oh Gas Tro-gnome.

[Motu]

Just a little at a time,unit you get the sound you want.

[JohnBoy]

Unless its a sport bike for racing. I can't understand people who get off on farkin noisey rides....

i of the firm belief that loud pipes save lives!!
peace and quite is only an ear plug away! :Punk:

[WINJA]

I have 11 motorcycles at the present time - one after market can (Supertrapp) on the XT400,on the XLV750 my own system (try buying one of those) but also silencers of my own manufacter,XS1 has aftermarket mufflers,spiked but similar noise to stock,PW50 has my system,namely a couple of lawn mower mufflers end to end,KT250 has original muffler with my own baffle,SL125 has an aftermarket job,similar noise to stock,TLR200 is stock and whisper quiet (fails noise test) TT225 has stock system but I will build my own muffler onto stuffed original system.All the rest (3) are stock.

So,where do I fit in that poll???
FORGET THE POLL , YOU HAVE THE MOST BIKES EVER

[rudolph]

I have 10 bikes at the moment, all with mods done to the mufflers and exhaust systems, I have open drag pipes on my BMW witch gives it better topend power and sounds cool, a cople other bikes a have Cobys on them, i made a 4 into 2 for my CB900 :devil2:

[cowpoos]

huh? im not saying its going faster - the opposite, generally i thought you needed to maintain approx 300 ft per sec gas flow speed, and i think with my exhaust being so free flowing its not getting there.
also lack of backpressure i was taught creates the valves to heat up and you ca burn them or something along those lines - its the pressure of the gas that takes the heat away from them right?


errrr.....huge subject.....and every engine responds better or worse to different speeds,flows,back presure [if any],lenght,diameter....endless variables...

[Lou Girardin]

Unless its a sport bike for racing. I can't understand people who get off on farkin noisey rides....

On Bandits cans give you another 10 hp.
Plus I like the sound.
But I don't agree that they are safer. Cagers don't hear sirens when they're right behind, so what chance does a noisy can have?