Protective frame coatings

[Dodgyiti]

I am in the process of a full restoration and mulling over frame coatings

The bike to me is a keeper so I want it to last at least 15 years

Now,
I have the choice of HPC coating @ $550 or Pro-Coating @ $250

What is the difference in hardness and longevity?

Resistance to stone chipping and rust?

[F5 Dave]

I believe HPC was set up by the chap who sold out & now does Procoat. Obviously they do several different types of coating so apples with apples.

I've only done exhausts, one expansion chamber HPC & one 4-1 headers to the slip on joint, Pro. Pro coat jerked around forever & did a welding repair that was overpriced & scabby. Plating on both was good.

Think I'd only 2pac epoxy or powdercoat a frame, are you after std finish? HPC is usually ally finish & looks a bit suss when dirty. Think they can tint it black though.

If you want styley I'd go with Nickel plate. A good job should survive, but it does rub off in high abration areas. My GasGas are both nickle & survive well except above the footpegs but is a hell place with mx boots & dirt rubbing constantly.

Just checked profile & presume you are talking about the 750, surely black would be the go?

. . .oh & you are 8 days older than me.

[Crisis management]

I don't know either of those coatings......find out exactly what they are intended to do, ie. provide high sheen waterproof coating or ????
For example...powder coating is not waterproof so its ok on aluminium components but if its steel then it needs electroplating or galvanising first.
My pick would be a two pack epoxy (Carboline?) for long life and protection but some of these contain carcinogenic compounds so need applying in a good spray booth.
Ask heaps of questions, try your local spray painter for advice as well.

Good luck!

[classic zed]

I had my frame powder coated, and at $185 to shot blast and powder coat it, it was cheaper than buying 2K paint for it and having to deal with the mess of stripping and priming it.:yes:

[Dodgyiti]

I did consider powder coating, and have done frames that way in the past. Not fussed about standard, pimtastic is more my bag, but black all the same as it will be too shiny for the naked eye as it is
A friend had his dirt bike done by Pro-Coat and that thing gets absolutley stone blasted and still looks mint. They put a clear coat over the silver for a little extra, and they said they do black.
And I was told HPC is even tougher...
And the 750 is a chicks bike, period. This is for my Mk1 Lemans, or sweetheart if you know her as well as I do...

Fussy arn't I? Should explain that the bike has nearly doubled in value in the 3 years I have had it and I want it as best as what is available now and I am not planning on selling her for at least until the body can't handle the riding position, so 10 years then.

I am definatley getting the mags done in that HPC polished Ali coating, $165 for both- looks really neat, and easy to keep clean.They use the same treatment as they do on headers- Another mate had his headers done by HPC 18 years ago and that angry little small block has been dragged, burnouts and caught fire and still looks good!! And the valve springs in ceramic $40 for 8

[Dodgyiti]

I don't know either of those coatings......find out exactly what they are intended to do, ie. provide high sheen waterproof coating or ????
For example...powder coating is not waterproof so its ok on aluminium components but if its steel then it needs electroplating or galvanising first.
My pick would be a two pack epoxy (Carboline?) for long life and protection but some of these contain carcinogenic compounds so need applying in a good spray booth.
Ask heaps of questions, try your local spray painter for advice as well.

Good luck!

That Carboline is really awesome stuff! I had the line marking in my factory done in it 3 years ago, forkhoists on it all day, and they mop it down with solvents weekly. Good stuff alright!

[Paul in NZ]

Depends.... if you are restoring the Mk1 brush paint it with watered down blackboard paint and leave it to dry on the beach during a wind storm just like the factory did. The 'satin' finish on the early bikes is almost laughable. They look so much nicer with a high gloss finish and I'd go 2 pack.

If you go for the red colour on the body work it's quite hard to get exactly right. It is usually applied too red - it has quite an orange hue. The Ice Blue option was very nice IMHO....

Don't forget the dayglow orange bits on the nose cone - classic italian madness....

[Dodgyiti]

Depends.... if you are restoring the Mk1 brush paint it with watered down blackboard paint and leave it to dry on the beach during a wind storm just like the factory did. The 'satin' finish on the early bikes is almost laughable. They look so much nicer with a high gloss finish and I'd go 2 pack.

If you go for the red colour on the body work it's quite hard to get exactly right. It is usually applied too red - it has quite an orange hue. The Ice Blue option was very nice IMHO....

Don't forget the dayglow orange bits on the nose cone - classic italian madness....

Thank you for the great advice, it also sounds a lot cheaper.
Nothing I do to it could make it as hidious as a Mk2:puke: , so it's a win-win situation all round:clap:
I am going to color match it to my Griso (another Moto-Guzzi a lot prettier than a Mk2:puke:) so I only need one touch up tin
And should I leave it to dry on the beach, or a lake shore for extra authenticity?
And yes the dayglow orange is great, a slightly nicer hue than the dayglow on the front of the Mk2:puke: fairing, I may even get a matching riding vest