how long are fork seals meant to last?

[phil_elvey]

I would appreciate some input on this...
I had my fork seals done about 4-4,500kms ago by the shop here in Palmy, and then the day I notice oil all over one of my front brakes, and blow me down one of my seals has gone again. I haven't hit any pot holes or anything (like that bloke on the castlepoint ride the other day), just been typical riding.

Should I take the bike back to shop and demand that they give me some sort of compensation towards the cost of getting another put in again?? Is it possible that their workmanship is partly/wholly to blame?

[White trash]

I would appreciate some input on this...
I had my fork seals done about 4-4,500kms ago by the shop here in Palmy, and then the day I notice oil all over one of my front brakes, and blow me down one of my seals has gone again. I haven't hit any pot holes or anything (like that bloke on the castlepoint ride the other day), just been typical riding.

Should I take the bike back to shop and demand that they give me some sort of compensation towards the cost of getting another put in again?? Is it possible that their workmanship is partly/wholly to blame?

Phil. 3 possibiltys here.

1st, they used after market seals which are crap and never last.

2nd, you've got pitted fork tubes.

3rd, you've let me ride your bike at some stage and my piss poor wheelie atempts have fucked them.

[Paul in NZ]

I'd go back (or phone up) and explain the problem patiently and politely. Explain that your expectation was that these new seals would last a little long than they did and what, in their opinion is the likely cause....

ie At least give them a chance...

There are many reasons why they could be rooted

Asking nicely never hurt....

[Jackrat]

They should last a lot longer then that.
Dead bugs can get very hard and root the seals, but other than that??
I've only ever had to change seals after very high Kms and never done the same bike twice.
Good luck with the shop.

[Mongoose]

I'd go back (or phone up) and explain the problem patiently and politely. Explain that your expectation was that these new seals would last a little long than they did and what, in their opinion is the likely cause....

ie At least give them a chance...

There are many reasons why they could be rooted

Asking nicely never hurt....

:Oi: Paul, glad to see you did not drop down to your usual level on "blowing seals" :rolleyes: :killingme

[Paul in NZ]

:Oi: Paul, glad to see you did not drop down to your usual level on "blowing seals" :rolleyes: :killingme

I was SERIOUSLY tempted when he wanted to know how long a seal could hold up....

[FROSTY]

ohh and option 4 -check you dont have a slightly bent fork leg.
its also possible the seal lip might have been slightly torn putting it in

[Gixxer 4 ever]

I would appreciate some input on this...
I had my fork seals done about 4-4,500kms ago by the shop here in Palmy, and then the day I notice oil all over one of my front brakes, and blow me down one of my seals has gone again. I haven't hit any pot holes or anything (like that bloke on the castlepoint ride the other day), just been typical riding.

Should I take the bike back to shop and demand that they give me some sort of compensation towards the cost of getting another put in again?? Is it possible that their workmanship is partly/wholly to blame?

Covered well above. Rub the chrome with your finger tip to see if you can feel any small stone chips in the chrome. All around the shaft front and back. If yes then you have a problem. The seals will never last. The base metal rusts when the chrome is damaged so you have sharp edges from the damaged chrome and a small hole from the missing chrome. But when the base steel rusts you have a harsh lump. All these will damage the seals. I priced rechroming a few years ago and was $200.00 a shaft. Not a good option at that price. The shop should have had a good look at the chrome and called you if it was damaged but many do not. Been there and done that. A pain.
I have re built front shocks with a 3 mm bend and as long as the shaft has no Chrome damage they will seal.

[Kereama]

I had problems with my upsidedowner on the monster with seals. I glued leather sleeves 6 inches long. Just above the seal. and they hang down to cover part of the forks. It works fine keeps all the bugs and dust out. Have never had to replace them again. I used some Oppossum leather a mate had cured it was very thin and they lasted 5 years, before I had to replaced them(leather sleeves). The seals are still ok. 10yrs on.

[phil_elvey]

Choice, yeah I had the seal replaced yesterday, this time with a genuine one (cheers WT) so hopefully that should hold up a bit better. I might look at getting a sock for them too

[Mongoose]

Choice, yeah I had the seal replaced yesterday, this time with a genuine one (cheers WT) so hopefully that should hold up a bit better. I might look at getting a sock for them too

Ahhhhh, Ye Olde English Gaiters, I thought they were to keep the oil in? :yeah:

[Posh Tourer :P]

Hooray for gaiters.... They are there to stop you realising you have blown seals....:bleh:

[Motu]

Dedicated followers of fashion eh? At one time gaiters were considered way uncool and removed,and then removed by the manufacterer altogether cause it looked just so much better .Forks and seals last so much longer with them on - get dirt bike gaiters,you can get them to match the colour of your bike.

[Paul in NZ]

Hooray for gaiters.... They are there to stop you realising you have blown seals....:bleh:

ish funny... I thought it was strong liqour wot stopped you realising you have blown seals??

Mine you, you'd sober up pretty quick if you did try to blow a gator....

:lol:

(sorry, just could not stand it anymore)

[Posh Tourer :P]

I thought that might tempt you a bit much.... :D

[Kereama]

Thats why you use the thin leather any oil coming out will show up, If if rains the oil will run down the forks. You'll know if they are blown. It solved my problems with seals.

[Milky]

On a side note, has anyone tried filling pits with superglue/alydite/other glue as an alternative to rechroming?

[Kickaha]

On a side note, has anyone tried filling pits with superglue/alydite/other glue as an alternative to rechroming?


yes,worked fine,filled it with araldite,used some fine wet and dry didn't ever have a problem with it.

[Redstar]

fork seals will last forever! its not the seals that are the problem its the pits in the crome that stuff them. It only need a tiny pit in the crome to destroy the seal. now find the pit. usually the pit is above the normal(new) rebound thats because the seal has never been there and no one ever cleaned there so you can clean the pit, rub down the pit, fill the pit with araldite, rub down the pit with finest wet and dry carburendium paper, increase the damping to avoid the pit(harden to suspension) or recrome the struts. or renew the forks or repalce the seals agnasium.
its the Pits

[moko]

Most new-ish bikes have deflectors on the forks to shield them to some extent from flying grit e.t.c.Gaiters are a good idea but dont forget they can also hide corrosion e.t.c. so if you ever go to look at a bike for sale with them fitted then take a peek underneath just to make sure they`ve been put on for the right reason.If the seller gets stroppy walk away because any seller with nothing to hide will happily let you poke around within reason.

[Storm]

I have the same problem with my forks. Is there a specific type of araldite you use or will any brand do? Also what grade sandpaper did you use? Anyone out there got any idea what new or secondhand forks would cost for my GSX250FL ?

[Redstar]

I have the same problem with my forks. Is there a specific type of araldite you use or will any brand do? Also what grade sandpaper did you use? Anyone out there got any idea what new or secondhand forks would cost for my GSX250FL ?
I used crystal Araldite 5 min set but fully make sure the mix is correct.the grit was the finest they had cant recall but if it scratches the crome its too course.
dont be impatient either try to get the araldite to only fill with little excess and leave for two days before you attack it.
Throughly clean the pit first with white spirt or nail varnish remover (ask the mrs). not turps or petrol, they are oil based and will act as a barrier to the glue.It worked for me but also consider the compression damping stop point, its rare to have pits below the compression line so if you stiffen it a tad you might avoid the pit all together?