Long Storage Advise Needed

[Midge]

In a month i have the opportunity to go over to england for work for bout 5 months as much as i would like to i dont think i can take my bike so i have got a container to store all my stuff in and also my bike!\

Was wondering if there is something i should do before putting it into storage which in so doing will prevent me from having troubles when i get home!

Cheers

[Kwaka14]

drain all the fuel from the carbs and tank, disconnect (preferably remove) the battery, overfill with oil... think theres some otherstuff you should fo too, but not sure sorry...

[crashe]

Empty the petrol out...
Disconnect the battery.....
Lift it up off its wheels



Or better still get it stored in a garage where the person can turn it over for you every so often...... if you are only going away for the 5 months.

[Drum]

What has already been said, plus:

-Lube the chain (prevents corrosion)
-Tape plastic bags over exhaust outlets (prevents spiders making homes in them and misc dust etc and kiddies shoving stuff down there).
-Wash and wax the bike. (removes corrosive stuff).
-lock it!

[Disco Dan]

drop the PSI down a tad...

[Macktheknife]

OK here we go,
Drain fuel from tank and carbs and lines
remove battery or just disconnect if easier, tape leads off.
Fill oil to level and squirt a little in the spark plug holes to prevent rust/sticking, replace the plugs in the holes.
Cover the exhaust and any holes that may attract spiders etc, wipe a light coat of crc on discs to prevent rust.
Lower tyre pressure by about 5 psi, park bike on main stand and secure a cover over it. No main then put on blocks to remove weight from tyres.
When you take it out of storage, drain and replace oil/filter.
Flush fuel system and refill, maybe change fuel filter too.
inflate tyres to correct pressure, connect battery after charging to full power.
Wash and wax bike, clean discs very well, go for a ride.
That should do it.

[Midge]

how do i put it on blocks didn't think u could with a bike!

[Grub]

It doesn't look pretty but you can use the car scissor jack under the engine or headers and block it under there.

The other method is blocks under the footpeg mounts and a couple of block on each side of the front wheel under the axle bolt

[crashe]

how do i put it on blocks didn't think u could with a bike!

You can put the bike up in pit stands/paddock stands.
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php?t=43816

FROSTY has them for sale
Swanman also has them for sale.
Any bike shop has them for sale as well.

[desmo dave]

i allways thought the idea was to drain the carbs but keep the tank full as this allows no room for water moisture to rust the tank. i wouldnt call 5 months long anyway. i would spray crc on anything that will corrode, that means alloy aswell.As others have said take the battery out & have some1 trickle charge it every few weeks.If its old allready just buy a new 1 when your home.

[vagrant]

Ok,
Here is my routine from when I served on our Frigates and would go away to Sea for 6 odd months in a row.
Fill fuel tank, toss in a cup of meths(it absorbs any condensation)
Remove battery, put on solar powered conditioner (bought from Dick Smiths)
Lube chain
Drain oil and refill with fresh stuff
Squirt oil down each plug hole and hand turn engine over a few times, put plugs back it.
Wipe exposed chrome on forks and rear shock with Breakfree CLP gun oil
Cover with drop cloth.
Sail away.
On return
Wash and polish
Change brake fluid
Fit battery
Check all your fluid levels and give the whole bike a good look over
Aim outside cause its gona smoke, crank it over till the oil light goes out with the kill switch off
Kill switch on and start it.

Why do I use CLP instead or CRC? Its because CLP is designed as a film protectant and lubricant it doesn't dry off. CRC dries and the film left behind is hydroscopic. Yup, it attracts and absorbs water, causing rust. It's fine if you can imperse your bike in a tank of it, otherwise keep it for loosening tight bolts.

Why do the chrome? The hard chrome on your forks and shocks actualy has hundreds of tiny cracks in the plating, and it is chrome over steel so you have two different metals which in the presence of any water equals rust and destroyed seals.

Why not drain the tank and carbs. The carb seals are used to being soaked in fuel, if you drain the carbs, the seal dry out and crack. Just ask me how expensive it is replace RC30 carb seals and wiring loom when you catch it all on fire.:shit:. RC30 was left dry, and when I refueled it, the carbs leaked into the engine V and fuel pooled then ran down onto the exhaust. You can see where thats going:sick:
Thank god it did not have its clothes on at the time.

Your discs may also have some light surface rust on them, just give them a rub with scotchbrite. The high quality steel that your discs are made from take a lot of abuse before they get seriously rusty. I just dug out the old ones off my Fireblade. They have been hiding in the back of my leaky garage for a year now, apart from the deep score marks they look fine.

Well thats my 2 cents worth. It probably doesn't cover everything you should/could do, but worked for me for two bikes and a car for 6 odd years.

Oops, nearly forgot, put rego on hold, and ask your insurance company for storage rate too.

Good luck with the job.

[Disco Dan]

Why do I use CLP instead or CRC? Its because CLP is designed as a film protectant and lubricant it doesn't dry off. CRC dries and the film left behind is hydroscopic. Yup, it attracts and absorbs water, causing rust. It's fine if you can imperse your bike in a tank of it, otherwise keep it for loosening tight bolts.


Fantastic post Vagrant, can you please elaborate on CLP? Is that the brand name? Is it easy to get hold of?

[Horney1]

Hi Midge,


Ok, Here is my routine from when ....

Go with what Vagrant said - all sounds good except I'd probably go light on the oil into the cylinders bit and check/ clean your sparkplugs soon after starting it up after storage.

I saw somewhere a while back what not to do, that's don't cover it in plastic as it can hold condensation and make any rust problems worse.

Good luck

[twinkle]

here is what suzuki recommends for storing a motorbike.

[peasea]

Ok,
Here is my routine from when I served on our Frigates and would go away to Sea for 6 odd months in a row.
Fill fuel tank, toss in a cup of meths(it absorbs any condensation)
Remove battery, put on solar powered conditioner (bought from Dick Smiths)
Lube chain
Drain oil and refill with fresh stuff
Squirt oil down each plug hole and hand turn engine over a few times, put plugs back it.
Wipe exposed chrome on forks and rear shock with Breakfree CLP gun oil
Cover with drop cloth.
Sail away.
On return
Wash and polish
Change brake fluid
Fit battery
Check all your fluid levels and give the whole bike a good look over
Aim outside cause its gona smoke, crank it over till the oil light goes out with the kill switch off
Kill switch on and start it.

Why do I use CLP instead or CRC? Its because CLP is designed as a film protectant and lubricant it doesn't dry off. CRC dries and the film left behind is hydroscopic. Yup, it attracts and absorbs water, causing rust. It's fine if you can imperse your bike in a tank of it, otherwise keep it for loosening tight bolts.

Why do the chrome? The hard chrome on your forks and shocks actualy has hundreds of tiny cracks in the plating, and it is chrome over steel so you have two different metals which in the presence of any water equals rust and destroyed seals.

Why not drain the tank and carbs. The carb seals are used to being soaked in fuel, if you drain the carbs, the seal dry out and crack. Just ask me how expensive it is replace RC30 carb seals and wiring loom when you catch it all on fire.:shit:. RC30 was left dry, and when I refueled it, the carbs leaked into the engine V and fuel pooled then ran down onto the exhaust. You can see where thats going:sick:
Thank god it did not have its clothes on at the time.

Your discs may also have some light surface rust on them, just give them a rub with scotchbrite. The high quality steel that your discs are made from take a lot of abuse before they get seriously rusty. I just dug out the old ones off my Fireblade. They have been hiding in the back of my leaky garage for a year now, apart from the deep score marks they look fine.

Well thats my 2 cents worth. It probably doesn't cover everything you should/could do, but worked for me for two bikes and a car for 6 odd years.

Oops, nearly forgot, put rego on hold, and ask your insurance company for storage rate too.

Good luck with the job.

Quite right about the carb seals etc, dry them out and splitting/cracking will probably occur. However, after five months drain the old gas, refill with fresh stuff and be prepared for a rough start-up. Old gas is a pain. The new gas will run in eventually and you're off. Right again in regards to CRC, not a long term solution (pun intended). Plugs out, oil in, just a squirt, and I'd suggest putting the bike in gear then roll the bike forward a few feet slowly, let the engine rotate a couple of times with that squirt in there to lube the rings and cylinder walls. Put the plugs back in and park her up. Blocks is best but as was said; five months is bugger all really. Otherwise get a trusted mate to use it once a month.

[Midge]

Thanks alot guys will do this

[Buddha#81]

Loan it to me for the five months:gob:

[vagrant]

Fantastic post Vagrant, can you please elaborate on CLP? Is that the brand name? Is it easy to get hold of?

The stuff is called Break-free CLP and is a synthetic gun oil developed for the US Military. It has teflon and a few other flash things in it.
Tests they did with it when it was introduced included cleaning two M16 rifles, one with CLP and the other with the then standard oil, then immersing them in sea water for a week.
They were drained of water and then loaded, but only the one cleaned with CLP would actually chamber a round and fire.
Its good stuff!!
You can get it from pretty much any sporting gun shop, Hunting and Fishing at Westgate have it.

[Midge]

The stuff is called Break-free CLP and is a synthetic gun oil developed for the US Military. It has teflon and a few other flash things in it.
Tests they did with it when it was introduced included cleaning two M16 rifles, one with CLP and the other with the then standard oil, then immersing them in sea water for a week.
They were drained of water and then loaded, but only the one cleaned with CLP would actually chamber a round and fire.
Its good stuff!!
You can get it from pretty much any sporting gun shop, Hunting and Fishing at Westgate have it.

LOL in my case i am in the army and there is surplus amounts

[Disco Dan]

The stuff is called Break-free CLP and is a synthetic gun oil developed for the US Military. It has teflon and a few other flash things in it.
Tests they did with it when it was introduced included cleaning two M16 rifles, one with CLP and the other with the then standard oil, then immersing them in sea water for a week.
They were drained of water and then loaded, but only the one cleaned with CLP would actually chamber a round and fire.
Its good stuff!!
You can get it from pretty much any sporting gun shop, Hunting and Fishing at Westgate have it.

Just got back from hunting and fishing shop, the product comes in tiny 25ml bottles!!!!

I picked up a can of Gunslick - Gun-Dri Water Repelllent. $20 but should do the trick ;)

[vagrant]

Just got back from hunting and fishing shop, the product comes in tiny 25ml bottles!!!!

I picked up a can of Gunslick - Gun-Dri Water Repelllent. $20 but should do the trick ;)

You can get it in allsorts from those wee bottles, small aerosol cans, household cleaner type trigger packs, 4 litre packs, to 20 litre drums.