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pritch
6th April 2007, 19:15
We all have our favourite roads. Some, like the Paekak Hill, are over all too soon. Others like the Coromandel loop are more substantial, or if you fancy a really substantial ride you could do SH43 Stratford to Taumarunui (or vice versa).

I was surprised a year or two ago to read that the West Coast of the South Island was considered one of the world's best rides. The West Coast simply never having had that image for me.

I just Googled that topic and came up with this:
http://www.askmen.com/fashion/travel_top_ten_100/110d_travel_top_ten.html
Somebody must have been a bit lost...

The last time I was planning to ride the West Coast there was a storm warning for the area on my day of departure from Lumsden, so I headed north up through the McKenzie Country and left the West Coast for another day. That day finally arrived last week.:scooter:

My words may not be able to do this justice, nor may my photographs. Afterall if you've seen one picture with blue sky, blue water, and a mountain range you've see em all. Sort of.

If you are a New Zealand motorcyclist and you haven't travelled down the West Coast of the South Island you haven't seen the best riding this country has to offer. By Far!

You owe it to yourself to put this on your “to do” list. Maybe not for the middle of winter though...

Fairly conservatively I had organised the legs into rides of approximately 350 to 400K. That must have been about right because at the same time I was doing my trip there was a group of about 60 to 70 Ducati riders on a similar mission and we were generally keeping a similar timetable.

Sunday 25 March

No hassles boarding the ferry in company with a couple of Australian Ducati riders and several other bikes. Tiedowns all round plus duct tape on the front brake but it was a super smooth crossing. Thanks to nadroj for the loan of his bike bra and two tiedowns though.

A brilliant run down SH1 to Kaikoura, the first time I rode down there I was grinning inside my helmet. This is the sort of thing we imagine when reading the brochures prior to buying a bike, but which we all too seldom get to do.

Then to the inland road SH 70 just after Kaikoura. This was an interesting little number. Generally of such a nature as to let you cruise at whatever speed you choose (or think you can get away with?). It does pay to stay awake however, because without warning you'll come across a corner that would normally be posted at 40KPH. Then another, and another. The third one likely being the first one that is posted as being that speed. This happened more than once and I'm not sure whether there is a roading engineer with a warped sense of humour or whether this is done to stop the North Island tourists getting constipated.

Hanmer is a resort with lots of accomodation: motorcamps, hotels, motels, and ski lodges. I had trouble finding the motorcamp I was booked into, I found two others first. Both the VFR and I were running hot before we found the right place but I don't have an automatic electric fan. It seems that in Hanmer every single corner has those blue signs indicating accomodation in that direction. They might be just as well off with no signs?


Once I finally located it, the Top 10 Holiday Park in Hanmer was an impressive place. Dinner at the Hot Springs Hotel next door was good too. I could willingly spend more time in their bar but $6.00 a pint?

pritch
6th April 2007, 19:27
Monday 26th

I hadn't previously ridden the Lewis Pass, due to that storm warning mentioned earlier. Sheer magic! At first winding along a dry brown river valley, not much scrub, no sheep, no nothing much but winding road. Then once into the ranges proper the road winds through forest, and winds, and winds...

At one point while passing through a long green tunnel I looked down at the speedo and was surprised to see the numbers. Apparently the feeling of privacy in there induced (seduced?) me to feel unconscously that any indiscretions were safe from discovery?

Somewhere, maybe near Springs Junction, the radar detector indicated a hit. The only vehicle in sight was a four wheel drive, but on reflection I think the hit was more in the nature of those that you get when a patrol car is up a side road. That was the last squeek from the detector for three whole days... Feel free... :gob:

I am already looking forward to my next trip over the Lewis Pass whenever that is. Sheer magic!

The roads either side of Greymouth are not very memorable but were all new to me so I wasn't really bored. Gas up and a chat with a group of Ducatisti, then on south down SH6 to Franz Joseph.

Came across another group of Ducs seemingly sitting on 155kph (don't ask me why I think that:sherlock: ). I couldn't understand 155, 150 or 160 maybe, but 155? Must be something to do with Italian speedos. One of their number seemed more ebullient than most, every time there was a place with more than one dwelling he'd pop a wheelie. Some people can't resist an audience.

Brilliant roads down to Franz Joseph and another impressive Top 10, this one easier to find since it was on the main road and I had to ride right past it to miss it... Another pub within an easy walk for a beer and a meal. And they didn't charge $6.00 for a pint.

nadroj
6th April 2007, 20:04
Bloody good writeup - I'm jealous.

pritch
6th April 2007, 21:55
Tuesday 27th

My notes for this day say “Bloody amazing!”. Non stop bends through forests, over hills, and alongside rivers. And then suddenly, surprise! Bruce Bay! The sea immediately to your right, the air full of salt spray, then it's gone and you're in forest again. Winding through a World Heritage Area and then the Mt Aspiring National Park. Then after the Haast Pass, Lakes Wanaka and Hawea. The best single days riding I have ever had.

Met Kiwibiker Car and his dad, also a biker, at Wanaka that evening. Nice people.

pritch
6th April 2007, 22:09
Wednesday 28th

Wanaka to Invercargill. The roads start out OK but as you approach Invercargill they tend a bit boring but this is only the second time I've been down there so I can handle it OK. I'm not sure if they are actually all that bad or if they just suffer in comparison to the sublime riding of the previous two days. I'm grateful for the weather so far, wall to wall blue, and 25 degrees in Wanaka. A shorter ride than usual to Invercargill but it was the scheduled laundry day.


Thursday 29th

Some fog about. Today is the Catlins Road. I'd read and heard quite a bit about the Catlins and it's no let-down. The fog cleared soon enough but the bends with trees or banks to the north remained wet and being that far from home I wasn't looking for a bin. One such did offer itself, I approached a small one way bridge with right angled bends either end going waaaay too quick. With both ends of the bike on the verge of locking up and my own rear end on the verge of unlocking I was starting to look for an alternative plan but I eventually made it round OK. Just!

Had lunch at a cafe with Scumdog and his lady. Delightful people. Scumdog is not at all like the image he presents on KiwiBiker. Let me just sum it up by saying he arrived at the Cafe driving a car with fluffy dice hanging from the mirror...:shutup:

The road to Dunedin was not too boring. In places fog and a strong wind made it almost too interesting. Just north of Dunedin a camera car set the radar detector off. First time since the Lewis Pass. Couldn't help but muse that we really do seem to be a bit over policed in Taranaki. Thence to Oamaru.

pritch
6th April 2007, 22:17
Friday 30th

Thought the road straight up to Christchurch promised to be a bit boring so I went up the Waitaki valley to Omarama then down SH 79 through Geraldine. I would have like to have continued on 79 along the inland route past Mt Hutt but had an appointment in Christchurch and wasn't particularly looking for more riding that day anyway.... This was the first sore bum of the trip.

Saturday 31

Staying in Christchurch today, things to do, people to see.
First thing to do was some shopping, I wanted to visit Gun City. Very good service, and very helpful staff. They went out of their way to assist me and left a very favourable impression.

In the afternoon I went out to Burwood to see Inline4 and was very impressed with John's positive attitude. He was telling me that people at Burwood complain about the hospital food. He says thay have bugger-all to complain about, they should try the hospital food in New Plymouth.

(At this point I should perhaps point out that we should all try to ride so as to avoid the necessity of having to suffer eating hospital food?)

John has a good job offer, ACC are being helpful, and he was looking forward to a visit home to New Plymouth. (He is here as I write.)

oldrider
6th April 2007, 22:20
The South Island is nice but New Zealand is full of fantastic motorcycling roads in almost every corner of the country.

The real fun is just riding around and finding them. :ride: Nice writeup. Cheers John.

pritch
6th April 2007, 22:25
Sunday April 1

Another lovely day. An early start and a good run up to Picton. Got to ride the bit of the Kaikoura coast that I missed by taking the inland road on the way south. At Picton there were Ducatis everywhere. Picton is a nice place to sit outside a cafe nursing a flat white in the sun.

Since I travelled South on the Arahura and North with Bluebridge I can now make some sort of comparison in the light of my recent experience.

The bike facilities on the Arahura would definitely seem superior.
Three times now I've been directed to stop just inside the door. There are several bike parks there each with D rings and a chock. On Bluebridge – basically nothing! You just tie the bike down to whatever you can find. One D ring (shared) and sundry other parts of the ship that you may find to utilise. I can't help feeling that the bikes can be made more secure on the Arahura.

At the end of the ferry trip it's always something of a race to untie everything, cut the duct tape, get everything packed away then get dressed in biking gear, sort out radar detector, fasten helmets and gloves etc. On the Arahura I've made this in time, if on one occasion only just. With Bluebridge there was just nowhere near enough time. I wasn't alone, as I rolled out of the terminal area I saw the other bikes pulled off the road finishing preparations for whatever ride they faced that night.

Your mileage may vary, but I would be heavily predisposed to travel on the Arahura in future.

My ride that night was short, only to Papakowhai (Porirua City) so I didn't bother evenh fasteniing the outside jacket zip which I hadn't had time to do prior.

April 2nd

Another lovely day for the ride (with the tank bag repacked) over the more familiar roads home to Taranaki.

April 3rd

Got rained on enroute to work. Welcome home and back to reality!

Hanne
7th April 2007, 19:59
We were down in the South Island over New Years, and i have to say, the west coast roads were the most fun I have ever been on! I was especially glad to be a pillion becasue the views were fantastic, and combined with the winding roads and rugged atmosphere..... pheeeeowph! Nobody for miles, and even the rain just added to the atmosphere. If you haven't expereinced this part of the country, it is an absolute MUST. Can't wait to get back down there on my own bike to ride it for myself.

Nasty
7th April 2007, 21:41
Great write up ... sounds like a bike trip should be considered ... we have done much of that by car several years ago .. so would be totally different on two wheels :)

Southern man
7th April 2007, 22:14
Us southerners just don't realise how good we have it. Being an ex Aucklander I know how good it is down this neck of the woods. There is just so much good riding both on the east and west coast.