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Spyke
25th April 2007, 20:12
i've been reading a few forums about the hyosongs and people keep talking about the feeling of wooden brakes and i am curious about this feeling. so i thought i would ask a few questions about it.

question 1 what does the wooden brake feeling feel like?

question 2 what causes the wooden brake feeling?

question 3 what can be done to stop the wooden brake feeling?

thanks guys

Toaster
25th April 2007, 20:14
i've been reading a few forums about the hyosongs and people keep talking about the feeling of wooden brakes and i am curious about this feeling. so i thought i would ask a few questions about it.

question 1 what does the wooden brake feeling feel like?

question 2 what causes the wooden brake feeling?

question 3 what can be done to stop the wooden brake feeling?

thanks guys

1. Well, "woody" Go take a Honda for a ride, specifically the VTR1000F Firestorm (the only Honda I ever owned), those brakes are pure mahogany!!

2. Hondas.

3. Go buy a Suzuki.

CM2005
25th April 2007, 20:17
i've got a gokart with literally wooden brakes.

James Deuce
25th April 2007, 20:19
1. Wooden brakes = feels like squeezing a block of wood instead of modulating a brake lever for gentle, moderate, or hard braking. Often requires a hefty squeeze to actually get a reaction from the braking equipment.

2. Combination of brake line expansion, master cylinder ratios and brake pad material. Organic brake pads are standard on the Hyosungs and I find that they lack feel and power. The brakes are either on or off and squeezing the lever harder doesn't necessarily generate more power.

3. Can be fixed quite simply. Braided brake lines ($200 or so), scintered brake pads ($80 - $150 depending on brand), and a change of brake fluid. For those with a proper wallet a radial master cylinder would be the go also.

laRIKin
25th April 2007, 20:25
question 1 what does the wooden brake feeling feel like?

When you pull lever in brakes work but not very well and the hard you pull on the lever not much more braking is gained.


question 2 what causes the wooden brake feeling?

Can be brake pads, but I have found the wrong master to brake piston ratio.


question 3 what can be done to stop the wooden brake feeling?

Change pads some times does it, but I have found a smaller piston in the master cylinder.
By changing the whole lever assembly.

Spyke
25th April 2007, 20:31
thanks for the info guys its good to know these things.

i do like the hyosong, but if i got one i would have to do the mods to it to take it to the next level

maybe my bucket has wooden brakes because i keep getting out broken in the corners. or because im new to the sport.

CM2005
25th April 2007, 21:30
i got a braided line for my bucket from cycletreads for $70.00. helps immesureably.(sp*)

laRIKin
25th April 2007, 21:40
Braided brake lines help if your brakes a spongy not as much if they feel wooden.

Spongy is if the lever moves a lot and no extra braking.
Wooden is if the lever will not move much if pulled real hard.

Both do give you crappie braking.

James Deuce
25th April 2007, 21:46
Braided brake lines help if your brakes a spongy not as much if they feel wooden.



Trust me on this: Braided lines DO stop Hyosung brakes from feeling wooden.

laRIKin
25th April 2007, 22:07
Trust me on this: Braided lines DO stop Hyosung brakes from feeling wooden.

You could be right, I have never ridden a Hyosung.
And with that I will have to trust you.

Are you sure that you are not getting wooden and spongy mixed up? (not trying to be a smart ass about it)

But when I use to race, one of the guys changed to braided lines and then changed back to standard because he lost to much of the feel.

CM2005
25th April 2007, 22:10
my suzuki GP125 bucket got a new lever, and braided line, the brakes have great feel, and are progressive.

James Deuce
25th April 2007, 23:07
You could be right, I have never ridden a Hyosung.
And with that I will have to trust you.

Are you sure that you are not getting wooden and spongy mixed up? (not trying to be a smart ass about it)

But when I use to race, one of the guys changed to braided lines and then changed back to standard because he lost to much of the feel.

I've ridden 3 GT650Rs and 2 GT250s practically back to back, and the stock setup is not great. No feel, about 5mm of brake lever travel - absolutely wooden. Braided lines gave much improved lever travel along with progressive braking power. Scintered pads improve initial bite massively. If you need to demonstrate wooden brakes to someone get them to ride a stock GT650R (The stock brakes on the GT250R are much better for some reason) - if you want them to experience spongey get them to ride any Honda with an enclosed front disc.

imdying
26th April 2007, 09:19
Wooden just means the brakes feel dead with no real feedback. Usually a pad change is required, sometimes braided lines work too. These sort of things are best worked on piece by piece. Start with pads, they're cheap and easy to change. Lines are a bit of a gamble, imho they tend to make brakes feel even more wooden, but ymmv.

Crisis management
26th April 2007, 09:39
For those with a proper wallet a radial master cylinder would be the go also.

The technicality police are here........

Radial mount slave cylinder, yes, master cylinder...No


But I don't think it is all that feasible to convert the front end to a radial brake set up without a new front end (probably cost more than a Hyosung).

That will be $10.00

imdying
26th April 2007, 10:17
That will be $10.00You would be well advised not to comment on things that you don't know enough about, seeing as you're charging and all.

Personally wouldn't bother going down the radial mounted master cylinder route till you've exhausted all other options. Worth a look if you're changing ratios of mcyl to slave, but given that those ratios are nearly always optimal from the factory (in the course of normal riding), it's a last resort.

/edit: Larger master cylinder bores will (generally) increase the 'woodeness', be very careful about changing ratios. Of course the trade off is less lever travel, if that's your thing.

James Deuce
26th April 2007, 10:20
Personally wouldn't bother going down the radial mounted master cylinder route till you've exhausted all other options. Worth a look if you're changing ratios of mcyl to slave, but given that those ratios are nearly always optimal from the factory (in the course of normal riding), it's a last resort.


Bear in mind the thread was started specifically about Hyosung brakes.

I think decreasing the bore master cylinder bore should be the FIRST option investigated when discussing Hyosung brakes, because it is patently a case of the factory getting it wrong, hence my comment about the radial master cylinder idea.

Crisis management
26th April 2007, 10:40
You would be well advised not to comment on things that you don't know enough about, seeing as you're charging and all.


Ouch, I hate this learning something new stuff.....

You're right, there are radial mount master cylinders, grovel, apologies etc.....:shutup:

I'll refund any monies I receive!

imdying
26th April 2007, 11:08
lol... went for a ride yesterday, there was a 1098 there... radial mounted brake mcyl and clutch mcyl. I pulled the levers a few times, you know, just so I can say I have :lol: Seriously sexy factory hardware on that bike... I'd be lost for things to modify :( The list of carbon parts the factory sells is long and distinguished though, much like my Johnson :rofl:

Crisis management
26th April 2007, 11:13
The list of carbon parts the factory sells is long and distinguished though, much like my Johnson :rofl:

Man, how did you get that made out of carbon!!! :gob: :gob:

imdying
26th April 2007, 12:01
:shifty:

I can see it now... Durex Carbon Edition :lol:

moT
26th April 2007, 14:53
ok u dnt really need to buy any of that crap heres my test to see it breaks are good or not squees it constantly harder if it does a stoppie or lock up the front the breaks are fine on the other hand if u queese it as hard as u can and it wont stoppie or lock up definatly get new breaks

Spyke
26th April 2007, 16:03
since being on this site i have learnt so much, and now i know that little bit more about how to treat wooden brakes.

thanks guys

laRIKin
26th April 2007, 17:51
but I have found a smaller piston in the master cylinder.
By changing the whole lever assembly.


I think decreasing the bore master cylinder bore should be the FIRST option investigated when discussing Hyosung brakes,

I agree and that is where I would start as well.
I would look at sleeve one down if I could not find one at the wrecker's.
Or change the brake caliper/s (all so from the wreckers)