Sparkplug

[NotaGoth]

Okay well as you all know I have had some problems with my bike.. Fixed a wire, changed a fuse, and my lights and stuff run fine..

But...

Now its EXTREMELY hard to start.. I've been told to change the spark plug which I have done just now... I rung Maunders Suzuki and they had told me to put a NGKB9ES spark plug in it.. The one I took out is a NGK BR8EIX, now I am confused.. Can anyone fill me in on that..?

Also.. I have found a black and green wire, I'd assume this is an earth wire as the one we repaired was the same colour? Maybe I'm wrong.. Anywho.. The end of this wire is open metal... So dunno what would be going on if it "touches" the body work.. So I'll be taping that end up.. I now know where to find it if anything else comes of it..

Now.. ANOTHER problem...

Just above where you find the sparkplug there is a round ball thingy with a little hose that runs down and attaches to this big metal thing..?? (yah know where I'm at eh??) I think I knocked it off while I was fiddling round..
Anyway the thing thats on the end of the hose that you attach to that big metal thing is ABSOLUTELY fulla crap.. And looks blocked as... What is that hose for and how would I go about cleaning that gunk out of it? eg what should I use.. I'm sure because its meant to be attached that its something fairly important..:dodge:

:shutup:

[MSTRS]

Now its EXTREMELY hard to start.. I've been told to change the spark plug which I have done just now... I rung Maunders Suzuki and they had told me to put a NGKB9ES spark plug in it.. The one I took out is a NGK BR8EIX, now I am confused.. Can anyone fill me in on that..? Will have a search

Also.. I have found a black and green wire, I'd assume this is an earth wire as the one we repaired was the same colour? Maybe I'm wrong.. Anywho.. The end of this wire is open metal... So dunno what would be going on if it "touches" the body work.. So I'll be taping that end up.. I now know where to find it if anything else comes of it.. That'd be the right thing to do

Now.. ANOTHER problem...

Just above where you find the sparkplug there is a round ball thingy PETROL TANK? with a little hose FUEL LINE? that runs down and attaches to this big metal thing..?? CARBURETOR? (yah know where I'm at eh??) I think I knocked it off while I was fiddling round..
Anyway the thing thats on the end of the hose that you attach to that big metal thing is ABSOLUTELY fulla crap.. And looks blocked as... What is that hose for and how would I go about cleaning that gunk out of it? eg what should I use.. I'm sure because its meant to be attached that its something fairly important..:dodge:

:shutup:

Perhaps you need to post pics?

[MSTRS]

Info here http://home.iprimus.com.au/kelvey/phils_website/rg150%20technical%20info.htm

[xwhatsit]

Well those two sparkplugs are the same size, so perhaps you can use either. I've seen people use both D7EA and DR8ES plugs in my bike. The letter is the size of the plug, the number in the heat rating, and the other letters I don't know. So maybe you can use either but it's probably best to find out what the manufacturer specifies.

I too have a stray wire... it's black, open metal on the end, and is up around my headlight. Always wondered what it's for; can't find it on the wiring diagram (not that I looked really hard, it's a maze), and having it there doesn't seem to cause any mysterious electrical failures.

Round ball thingie. You don't mean the sparkplug cap? Or maybe it's some mysterious oiling setup that two strokes have? If nobody can work out what you're talking about maybe some pictures are in order, lol :D

Good luck. Sweating over a kickstater is not fun, I know how you feel.

[MSTRS]

Well those two sparkplugs are the same size, so perhaps you can use either. I've seen people use both D7EA and DR8ES plugs in my bike.

Sorry mate - they are utterly different. Yes, the threads are the same, but the length etc are nothing like

[xwhatsit]

Sorry mate - they are utterly different. Yes, the threads are the same, but the length etc are nothing like

Sorry, I meant the plug width.

Are you talking about Kittie's plugs, or my plugs? Mine are the same.

EDIT: I had a look on this page: http://www.kaila.net/tl125/tl125ngkcode.html . Kittie's plugs ought to be the same size, just that one is a resistor type plug and booster gap or something. Thread reach and thread diameter are identical.

[MSTRS]

Sorry, I meant the plug width.

Are you talking about Kittie's plugs, or my plugs? Mine are the same.

Yours. I've been looking for pics, but I will guarantee the two are not the same.

[imdying]

So some simple diagnostics, replace the plug with the old one and see if that fixes it. Interesting that one is B and the other a BR though.

[MSTRS]

So some simple diagnostics, replace the plug with the old one and see if that fixes it. Interesting that one is B and the other a BR though.

This one is IX = Iridium = should be the better plug. Perhaps just the wrong rating for that engine?
http://item.express.ebay.com/Vehicle-Parts-Accessories_Motorcycle-Parts__NGK-IRIDIUM-SPARK-PLUG-BR8EIX-upgrade-for-B8EG-B8ES_W0QQitemZ150009298066QQihZ005QQddnZVehicleQ20 PartsQ20Q26Q20AccessoriesQQadnZMotorcycleQ20PartsQ QcmdZExpressItem

[xwhatsit]

Yours. I've been looking for pics, but I will guarantee the two are not the same.

Going by the codes they too have the same width and reach. I've got one of each in the garage... *runs out and takes a look* yep, they're the same size. Any differences are in the sub-millimetre range.

[MSTRS]

Going by the codes they too have the same width and reach. I've got one of each in the garage... *runs out and takes a look* yep, they're the same size. Any differences are in the sub-millimetre range.

How do they compare in the 'exposure' of the the electrode(s)? Sub-millimetre may be all it takes to be right/wrong.

[xwhatsit]

How do they compare in the 'exposure' of the the electrode(s)? Sub-millimetre may be all it takes to be right/wrong.

The electrodes look identical to me, and that's with the same gap, so they're bent on the same angle. Going by those codes there is probably a difference in the electrode; D7EA and DR8ES, the A and the S are important to the electrode. A=`Special design (no details given)' and S=Standard 2.6mm electrode. I don't doubt there's a difference, but using one is not going to make the piston smack into it and seize your engine. At least in my case.

[NotaGoth]

Okay... I dashed off into town quickly.. And ran into an old friend of dads who has just come back to the house to help me...

The old plug that was in there when i purchased the bike is different to the plug that Maunders told me to use (I rung them this morning)... With the old plug, I was kicking and kicking and kicking and my bike just WOULDN'T START... 30 kicks utter exhaustion and I'd be lucky if she'd go.. (battery is fine)

The old plug I managed to take out using my hand to just unscrew it (have been told it wasn't in there properly so I would have been losing compression?? Can anyone confirm if thats true or not..??

New plug is in there now.. Did it myself.. Rusty checked it over and tightened it properly.. Cleaned my air filter.. Found the home for the loose wire.. It had a little clip thing that goes onto this little knobby bit near where the sparkplug is found.. (isn't the sparkplug cover, I should know cause I took this off myself) He mentioned it was for the... Umm whats that thing that heats up when you turn your ignition on? (forgot what he said)

Found the home also for that piece of hose that was fulla muck.. Haven't cleaned it out though.. Will see if I can borrow a digital to get a decent picture of it.. Have tried before with my phone and the photo isn't clear enough..

I was on the right track with everything.. So I'm proud.. Kinda.. Just panic'd a bit when I found a wire and I didn't know what it was for cause it wasn't attached to anything..

Oh.. And bike starts 2nd kick with the new sparkplug we put in it.. :shit:

[NotaGoth]

So some simple diagnostics, replace the plug with the old one and see if that fixes it. Interesting that one is B and the other a BR though.


The plug that was in it when I purchased the bike, I have been barely able to start my bike with it in there.. Hence I rung up to find out what sort of plug should be in it (got warned it could of had the wrong one in there) New plug that Maunders told me to use, bike now starts fine.. (hope that helps)

[NotaGoth]

Sorry I'm so dumb, I am trying.. :(

[2much]

OK Kittie, I'm not sure how much you know so I'll make it real simple, sorry if i'm telling you to suck egs. It's pretty simple when it's explained right...

NGK is just the brand name.

The "B" simply means it's a motorcycle plug. ie. Bike.

The "R" in the part number signifies an internal resistor inside the spark plug, which cuts down on engine noise in the radio.

The number is the plug's heat range, and basically is a measure of the spark plug's ability to remove heat from the combustion chamber. A smaller number means a hotter plug which dissipates heat slowly and a higher number means a colder plug, that dissipates heat quickly.

The "E" is long-reach. 'Extended' i'm guessing

And the "S" is 'Standard' will the "IX" as mentioned above is Iridium... which means it's made out of some flash shit that's supposed to give a better spark.

Hope that sort's question 1.... now question 2.

Yeah it's probably an earth which means it won't be carrying any current and is totally safe. Easiest way to check is with a multimeter, or touch it breifly against the frame or engine, if it sparks, it's carrying current. and don't be afraid, 12 volts won't hurt you.

Question 3..... WTF?

Is it a vacuum hose between the airbox and carburator maybe?

[2much]

Sorry I'm so dumb, I am trying.. :(

You're not dumb, we all started somewhere.

Respect to you for trying, I can't stand chicks that know nothing about the car/bike they use and have no interest in learning. Good on ya!

[NotaGoth]

OK Kittie, I'm not sure how much you know so I'll make it real simple, sorry if i'm telling you to suck egs. It's pretty simple when it's explained right...

NGK is just the brand name.

The "B" simply means it's a motorcycle plug. ie. Bike.

The "R" in the part number signifies an internal resistor inside the spark plug, which cuts down on engine noise in the radio.

The number is the plug's heat range, and basically is a measure of the spark plug's ability to remove heat from the combustion chamber. A smaller number means a hotter plug which dissipates heat slowly and a higher number means a colder plug, that dissipates heat quickly.

The "E" is long-reach. 'Extended' i'm guessing

And the "S" is 'Standard' will the "IX" as mentioned above is Iridium... which means it's made out of some flash shit that's supposed to give a better spark.

Hope that sort's question 1.... now question 2.

Yeah it's probably an earth which means it won't be carrying any current and is totally safe. Easiest way to check is with a multimeter, or touch it breifly against the frame or engine, if it sparks, it's carrying current. and don't be afraid, 12 volts won't hurt you.

Question 3..... WTF?

Is it a vacuum hose between the airbox and carburator maybe?

Ok thanks for explaining that so I can actually understand..

Umm.. Hold on tried getting a picture but my pxt isn't light enough.. *drawn it up in paint*

[NotaGoth]

Not much but maybe this might help seen as I can't get a decent photo......:shutup:

[2much]

How large is the plastic ball? what colour is it? and are ther any other hoses connected to it?

Someone familiar with GN's will probably have better luck than me answering this one.

EDIT: if it is just a length of vac hose then pull it off and stick some wire thru it to remove the crap. Compressor works well too but im guessing you havent got one.

[NotaGoth]

How large is the plastic ball? what colour is it? and are ther any other hoses connected to it?

Someone familiar with GN's will probably have better luck than me answering this one.


Bowt the size of a large large egg.. Its um............. The colour of a fuel filter in a car when its been used a bit.. Goes from that white to a brownish creamish colour (hard to explain) There is a hose going in the top, and a hose coming out the bottom, the hose coming out the bottom of it attaches to the side of the metal thing (as shown in the picture) that the sparkplug and stuff is in...

Stab in the dark for me was that it was to do with fuel and that its a fuel hose but I'm not sure..

[NotaGoth]

EDIT: if it is just a length of vac hose then pull it off and stick some wire thru it to remove the crap. Compressor works well too but im guessing you havent got one.


Got one but its somewhere in mums garage.. Will ask her when she gets home

[imdying]

touch it breifly against the frame or engine, if it sparks, it's carrying currentHeh, let's not be teaching her shitty habits from the get go eh...

[Mom]

NGK is just the brand name etc....

Thank you for the explanation, I was about to do the R stands for resistor spiel myself till I read your post. Kitty keep on asking the questions that is the only way to learn!!

[Mr. Peanut]

Not much but maybe this might help seen as I can't get a decent photo......:shutup:

Is it just me, or does that look like a kid sticking a fork into a power socket?

[NotaGoth]

Thank you for the explanation, I was about to do the R stands for resistor spiel myself till I read your post. Kitty keep on asking the questions that is the only way to learn!!

If I touch the negative terminal on my battery and the positive terminal on my battery at the same time what does it do?

[NotaGoth]

Is it just me, or does that look like a kid sticking a fork into a power socket?

Now that you mention it I can see that too lol

[2much]

Heh, let's not be teaching her shitty habits from the get go eh...

Fair point. Tho in my defence she is from norfland so she's probably already tried testing it with her tongue!


Thank you for the explanation, I was about to do the R stands for resistor spiel myself till I read your post. Kitty keep on asking the questions that is the only way to learn!!

You're welcome.

The only stupid question is the one that isn't asked.


If I touch the negative terminal on my battery and the positive terminal on my battery at the same time what does it do?

Try it... You won't feel a thing. The voltage is too low and the resistance of your body too high for any substantial current to flow. However drop a spanner (which has pretty much no resistance) across the terminals and you'll see sparks fly.

It's the current not the voltage that kills people.

refer Ohm's law.... Voltage = current x resistance. as your voltage is the constant (12V), if resistance decreases then current has to increase. Make sense?

[What?]

The electrodes look identical to me, ...

A herbal ciggie and a joint look the same, too, but I'm willing to wager that they have different effects when smoked.

[NotaGoth]

Fair point. Tho in my defence she is from norfland so she's probably already tried testing it with her tongue!


Oi!!!!!! I'm not blonde okay.. Haven't tested it like that just yet.. :shutup:

[slowpoke]

Sounds like you've done really well....nice Kitti!!

I have to admit I know sweet FA about Ginnies but the only thing that springs to mind re your "egg" would be some sort of oil/air separator (allows the crankcase to breath with out pumping oily air into the airbox/atmosphere) and they often look very gunked up even though they are still functioning OK.

From the number of Ginnie-philes on here I'm sure someone will point you in the right direction.

[NotaGoth]

Sounds like you've done really well....nice Kitti!!

I have to admit I know sweet FA about Ginnies but the only thing that springs to mind re your "egg" would be some sort of oil/air separator (allows the crankcase to breath with out pumping oily air into the airbox/atmosphere) and they often look very gunked up even though they are still functioning OK.

From the number of Ginnie-philes on here I'm sure someone will point you in the right direction.

AHHHH!!!!!!!! NOT A GN!!!!!! :dodge: :shit:

Was on the right track with what I was doing, just had to put it all back together again... And the new sparkplug I only put it in how the one I took out was in.. So it wasn't tight enough... That was soon explained to me when Rusty checked it.. But the extra help was appreciated and I was shown a few more things during that process.....

The help here is appreciated also.. When I can learn to explain things properly I'll start getting somewhere.. Meanwhile I think I might invest in my own cheap digital camera til I learn a bit more and explain things a bit better...

[NotaGoth]

Ok well it started fine yesterday afternoon.. Now it won't start this morning... Any reason why a bike won't start if its cold?? (tried with the choke she just coughs)

EDIT: Fuel is on, fuel tank is full... Checked the killswitch (Rusty got caught out by that yesterday)

[NotaGoth]

Ok opened it up again.. took the plastic top piece off the spark plug, put it back on..

Pulled the tank right off, turned the fuel switch to make sure fuel was actually flowing through properly and that it wasn't blocked..

The pipe that attaches to that I blew through really really hard, ended up with a bit of fuel spat back at me the first time, 2nd time none.. attached it again, kicked bike and it started right away..

Fuel blockage?

EDIT: *is at a loss*

[NotaGoth]

Oh.. And also...

I'm that fucking thick, when I was asked if my old spark plug was black.. I looked at the tip that the rubber goes over and said no..... :o

Its black and mucky all over the end where it screws into place...

[xwhatsit]

Oh.. And also...

I'm that fucking thick, when I was asked if my old spark plug was black.. I looked at the tip that the rubber goes over and said no..... :o

Its black and mucky all over the end where it screws into place...

Sticky oily mucky? Or hard carbony mucky? If it is carbony mucky then it means you were running a bit rich, which is OK, but cleaning the air filter would have improved that. Don't worry about it.

Oily mucky means there was oil fouling the plug, possibly leading to starting problems. This could've been the whole cause of the starting problems, but replacing the plug on a two-stroke is never a bad thing. Possibly kicking it over and over again with the engine actually starting would've fouled the plug as well.

[NotaGoth]

Sticky oily mucky? Or hard carbony mucky? If it is carbony mucky then it means you were running a bit rich, which is OK, but cleaning the air filter would have improved that. Don't worry about it.

Oily mucky means there was oil fouling the plug, possibly leading to starting problems. This could've been the whole cause of the starting problems, but replacing the plug on a two-stroke is never a bad thing. Possibly kicking it over and over again with the engine actually starting would've fouled the plug as well.


Ummm...Its like grease, not oily as but not hard either.. Will show my mum when she gets home she'll know what shes looking at *doesn't*



Noticed it hasn't been running right for a while there (since we fixed the wire) and then it just started to not run right, and eventually didn't want to start...

Took it for a ride just before and it seems to be running fine now.. Doesn't seem like its being starved of something :D

EDIT: Like the greasey stuff you find in the chain of a push bike, and its started to go hardish

[Wasp]

IX = Iridium plugs

All info is on the NGK website

in my case - CR8E is normal CR8EIX is the iridium one

[xwhatsit]

Ummm...Its like grease, not oily as but not hard either.. Will show my mum when she gets home she'll know what shes looking at *doesn't*



Noticed it hasn't been running right for a while there (since we fixed the wire) and then it just started to not run right, and eventually didn't want to start...

Took it for a ride just before and it seems to be running fine now.. Doesn't seem like its being starved of something :D

EDIT: Like the greasey stuff you find in the chain of a push bike, and its started to go hardish

That'll be a fouled plug, but the oil -- I dunno, oil seems to change state, like when it leaks out of my gearchange shaft, it goes more sticky and greasy. Probably because it's been cooked. At a guess it's probably from all that effort trying to start your bike. It can happen when you flood the engine, and without the combustion taking place it won't blow the crap off the plug. After a normal ride with the new plug, pop it out and take a look. If it's fouled again, maybe you have problems with over-oiling or something but I'd think that the plug would look clean and normal.

[2much]

AHHHH!!!!!!!! NOT A GN!!!!!! :dodge: :shit:

Sorry that's my fault as i mantioned it earlier... for some reason i thought u had a GN.


Ok opened it up again.. took the plastic top piece off the spark plug, put it back on..

Pulled the tank right off, turned the fuel switch to make sure fuel was actually flowing through properly and that it wasn't blocked..

The pipe that attaches to that I blew through really really hard, ended up with a bit of fuel spat back at me the first time, 2nd time none.. attached it again, kicked bike and it started right away..

Fuel blockage?

EDIT: *is at a loss*

Quite possibly, if it's a fuel hose then the hose will usually have that written on it. And if that is the case then that egg-like thing you were describing before may well be the fuel filter, in which case you might want to replace it.


Oh.. And also...

I'm that fucking thick, when I was asked if my old spark plug was black.. I looked at the tip that the rubber goes over and said no..... :o

Its black and mucky all over the end where it screws into place...

:lol: thanks for that!


Ummm...Its like grease, not oily as but not hard either.. Will show my mum when she gets home she'll know what shes looking at *doesn't*



Noticed it hasn't been running right for a while there (since we fixed the wire) and then it just started to not run right, and eventually didn't want to start...

Took it for a ride just before and it seems to be running fine now.. Doesn't seem like its being starved of something :D

EDIT: Like the greasey stuff you find in the chain of a push bike, and its started to go hardish

Probably from you trying to start it. is it the new plug, a hotter plug should help that. also have you given the bike a decent thrash lately? 2stokes need a bit of a caning regularly to keep them at their best.

[NotaGoth]

That'll be a fouled plug, but the oil -- I dunno, oil seems to change state, like when it leaks out of my gearchange shaft, it goes more sticky and greasy. Probably because it's been cooked. At a guess it's probably from all that effort trying to start your bike. It can happen when you flood the engine, and without the combustion taking place it won't blow the crap off the plug. After a normal ride with the new plug, pop it out and take a look. If it's fouled again, maybe you have problems with over-oiling or something but I'd think that the plug would look clean and normal.

Just a question.. How does it manage to over oil if it mixes itself? I fill the thingo under the seat and don't know what it does from there on.. lol

I took it for a short ride didn't want to venture to far incase my bike started to play up again... Ran fine.. Left it all afternoon to cool right down and I've started it with no problems at all..

Will take it for a proper ride on my next day off and then check the plug again though..

[NotaGoth]

Sorry that's my fault as i mantioned it earlier... for some reason i thought u had a GN.



Quite possibly, if it's a fuel hose then the hose will usually have that written on it. And if that is the case then that egg-like thing you were describing before may well be the fuel filter, in which case you might want to replace it.



:lol: thanks for that!



Probably from you trying to start it. is it the new plug, a hotter plug should help that. also have you given the bike a decent thrash lately? 2stokes need a bit of a caning regularly to keep them at their best.


I looked at a GN but I'm to small for one they are horrible and so uncomfortable.. Didn't end up getting one.. The RG is absolutely perfect though..

I'll find out what it is cause we can't find a fuel filter yet... Someone said its prolly in where the fuel tap screws into the tank?? (sorry bimbo time again, but I did look and couldn't see anything obvious)

No the black sparkplug is that old one that was in there, and when it was in there the bike wouldn't start.. I've put the new one in, it didn't want to start this morning.. But after blowing into the fuel line its now running and starting fine.. Even idles without cutting out on me..

Thrash..? Nooooooo... I don't thrash it.. So new to riding... Might hand it over to someone I trust to take it for a real ride though..

[xwhatsit]

Just a question.. How does it manage to over oil if it mixes itself? I fill the thingo under the seat and don't know what it does from there on.. lol

I took it for a short ride didn't want to venture to far incase my bike started to play up again... Ran fine.. Left it all afternoon to cool right down and I've started it with no problems at all..

Will take it for a proper ride on my next day off and then check the plug again though..

I believe some two-strokes have an adjustment on the automatic oiler. I doubt there's any problem with it, best to not worry about it; fouling a plug while trying to start your bike is common (I've done it on my four-stroke, which is far less prone to fouling). Listen to what 2much says -- it's a two-stroke, it needs caning every so often to blow some of the shit out of the exhaust and engine. It's good for it :D Take it out on a straight bit of road and give it a good wind up. Even my four stroke enjoys that from time to time.

[slowpoke]

I looked at a GN but I'm to small for one they are horrible and so uncomfortable.. Didn't end up getting one.. The RG is absolutely perfect though..


Ooops, sorry, I just picked that up from a previous post....I knew you were smart enough to stay away from them.......

[Mental Trousers]

Someone might find this useful.

[speeding_ant]

Sorry I'm so dumb, I am trying.. :(

I had an RG150, brilliant bikes.. When they work! I found it a struggle to find the right spark plug. As it is a 2 stroke, I beleive you can get different spark plugs for different uses/weather etc. I noticed a difference going from a colder plug to a hotter plug for instance. I never did notice a difference in how it started until it got to winter.. It got hard to start as soon as it got cold. The hotter plug is good for winter I beleive and the colder plug is good if you thrash it/using bike in summer. I beleive there are two little white bubbles on the RG, one is the fuel filter and the other is part of the fuel-oil mixer/pump. You want it replaced if it is dirty, otherwise it can limit how much petrol is entering the engine.

I wouldnt muck around with the oil mixture yourself.. Sometimes they need re-adjusting but it needs to be super accurate. If it isnt you will end up with a seized engine! Take it into a shop! Also, the plugs tend to foul up (making it very hard to start, or it wont start at all) if you dont thrash the bike every now and again. Take it into powerband for a while each ride and you wont run into that issue. Will the bike start easy if you crash start it? Also, when kicking you want to give it a slight amount of gas for the first couple of kicks, then kick like crazy. Any more and you will foul the plug.. :p

Hope that helps

[Racey Rider]

from what others have said in the past, that plastic ball thing is part of the power valve breather system.

[speeding_ant]

from what others have said in the past, that plastic ball thing is part of the power valve breather system.

Crazy! :P how does that work? *interested*

[NotaGoth]

Someone might find this useful.


Thanks Shane.. ;)

[NotaGoth]

I had an RG150, brilliant bikes.. When they work! I found it a struggle to find the right spark plug. As it is a 2 stroke, I beleive you can get different spark plugs for different uses/weather etc. I noticed a difference going from a colder plug to a hotter plug for instance. I never did notice a difference in how it started until it got to winter.. It got hard to start as soon as it got cold. The hotter plug is good for winter I beleive and the colder plug is good if you thrash it/using bike in summer. I beleive there are two little white bubbles on the RG, one is the fuel filter and the other is part of the fuel-oil mixer/pump. You want it replaced if it is dirty, otherwise it can limit how much petrol is entering the engine.

I wouldnt muck around with the oil mixture yourself.. Sometimes they need re-adjusting but it needs to be super accurate. If it isnt you will end up with a seized engine! Take it into a shop! Also, the plugs tend to foul up (making it very hard to start, or it wont start at all) if you dont thrash the bike every now and again. Take it into powerband for a while each ride and you wont run into that issue. Will the bike start easy if you crash start it? Also, when kicking you want to give it a slight amount of gas for the first couple of kicks, then kick like crazy. Any more and you will foul the plug.. :p

Hope that helps

Well its only been since the weathers gotten colder that I've had trouble starting it.. Would give it a little bit of throttle first kick she would always start..

Partner tried crash starting it when it wouldn't start and it would just cough as well..

Since the sparkplugs been changed its starting first/second kick without the choke even.. So I'm thinking I'm getting somewhere..

Ain't mucking around with it unless I'm sure I'm capable.. Right now I'm doing what I can before taking it to a shop... If I take it to a shop it means I have to ride all the way to Whangarei cause the guy in the bike shop up here is a dick and won't be getting anymore business from me.. I'm not impressed with how I've been treated..

EDIT: Very cold out tonight so I tested and first kick she started.. ;)

[NotaGoth]

from what others have said in the past, that plastic ball thing is part of the power valve breather system.

Ahhh thanks for that.. Will look into it further..

[speeding_ant]

Bugger about the shop! Good to hear the plugs are fixing the issue. As I said, if you have an empty straight on your way to work etc, just rev it right through a couple of gears. The engine will burn off the excess oil that starts accumulating. Also, you can gum up the reed valves quite bad if you don't, and that requires even more maintainance..! If the bike continues to foul after doing that for a week or so then I'd get someone who knows what they are doing to check the mixture and make sure its set correctly. I do know that I had issues when the weather changed, the RG didnt really like it.. Its probably just something as simple as you being a nana and not riding it how it should be ridden :dodge: haha.

Another question.. Do you keep the bike outside or in a garage?

[NotaGoth]

Bugger about the shop! Good to hear the plugs are fixing the issue. As I said, if you have an empty straight on your way to work etc, just rev it right through a couple of gears. The engine will burn off the excess oil that starts accumulating. Also, you can gum up the reed valves quite bad if you don't, and that requires even more maintainance..! If the bike continues to foul after doing that for a week or so then I'd get someone who knows what they are doing to check the mixture and make sure its set correctly. I do know that I had issues when the weather changed, the RG didnt really like it.. Its probably just something as simple as you being a nana and not riding it how it should be ridden :dodge: haha.

Another question.. Do you keep the bike outside or in a garage?

I'm a newbie rider, why ride beyond what I'm capable off?? I would like to make it home to my family.

Bike is underneath a large deck, have no garage space available til I shift house.. (My own fault I know)

[NotaGoth]

Shame about the bike shop year.. But thats what happens when they sell me different boots from what I actually ordered and didn't bother telling me til I rung up bitching about what was going on..

Oh and when they told me that a certain KBer was a dumbarse and that they didn't know ANYTHING about bikes and that I should just bring my bike for them to look at really iced the cake... Specially when I know for a fact this certain kber is EXTREMELY BRIGHT... And alot of others will agree..

[speeding_ant]

I'm a newbie rider, why ride beyond what I'm capable off?? I would like to make it home to my family.

Bike is underneath a large deck, have no garage space available til I shift house.. (My own fault I know)

:) sorry if I hit a sore spot there.. No harm meant! What I was meaning is basically, if you had a long straight, no cars/houses etc then accelerate once a day, even just from 2nd to 3rd then you can save yourself a lot of hassles in the long run. Plus you will learn about the bike, how it accelerates whilst in power band etc. And it's fun! :innocent:

Good way for a shop to keep a customer eh? Slagging off a fellow biker.. nice

[NotaGoth]

:) sorry if I hit a sore spot there.. No harm meant! What I was meaning is basically, if you had a long straight, no cars/houses etc then accelerate once a day, even just from 2nd to 3rd then you can save yourself a lot of hassles in the long run. Plus you will learn about the bike, how it accelerates whilst in power band etc. And it's fun! :innocent:

Good way for a shop to keep a customer eh? Slagging off a fellow biker.. nice

Nah its fine... SOMEONE talked me into having a bit of a play along a rather long stretch of road on one of our rides.. And I did.. Dunno what the big fuss about the powerband thing is.. :shutup: Will continue to do that.. Does give you a bit more of a feel for your bike when your able to have a bit of a play..

Yep great way... People forget about what happens when they end up with a unhappy customer.. Know of a fair few who have had issues there..

[speeding_ant]

Nah its fine... SOMEONE talked me into having a bit of a play along a rather long stretch of road on one of our rides.. And I did.. Dunno what the big fuss about the powerband thing is.. :shutup: Will continue to do that.. Does give you a bit more of a feel for your bike when your able to have a bit of a play..

Yep great way... People forget about what happens when they end up with a unhappy customer.. Know of a fair few who have had issues there..

Haha yeah, but considering its a 150cc its not bad power though.. Quite sedate compared to say.. a RGV250. Just think of how simple the engine is and how messy it actually is. If all the parts don't get used they get gummed up, requiring a lot of time consuming cleaning. Go hard! Its not like you'll break the speed limit in an big hurry :D

I've had bad experiences with a bike shop around the welly region. Not impressed. Any bike shops that do give good service though, I'd reccomend to anyone! It pays to give good service :rockon:

[90s]

NGKB9ES spark plug in it.. The one I took out is a NGK BR8EIX,

Hi Kittie,

glad you are getting the bike sorted. You could save yourself some trouble identifying bits of the bike if you download the manual:

http://www.zballantine.com/RG150

Good on you for getting down'n'drrty with the mechanics.

Also you will note the correct spark plug for this bike is the NGKB8ES (as per manual) and the IX that Haldane's put in there last service is the top-line version - about an extra $10 or so over the ES version.
You probably had built up some film over the plug which could have been burnt-off by the odd blast as earlier post have indicated. You can always scrape plugs if you see they have some gunk over them, although for the cost of plug you may as well replace it. It kicked on that plug first time for me all last winter, so maybe it was just tired.

Hope you have a lot more fun on the bike (or start to have some more).

[NotaGoth]

Hi Kittie,

glad you are getting the bike sorted. You could save yourself some trouble identifying bits of the bike if you download the manual:

http://www.zballantine.com/RG150

Good on you for getting down'n'drrty with the mechanics.

Also you will note the correct spark plug for this bike is the NGKB8ES (as per manual) and the IX that Haldane's put in there last service is the top-line version - about an extra $10 or so over the ES version.
You probably had built up some film over the plug which could have been burnt-off by the odd blast as earlier post have indicated. You can always scrape plugs if you see they have some gunk over them, although for the cost of plug you may as well replace it. It kicked on that plug first time for me all last winter, so maybe it was just tired.

Hope you have a lot more fun on the bike (or start to have some more).

Hey!!! Wow thanks btw.. I had tried finding the manual but couldn't figure out where you said it would be..

I have been trying and have succeeded.. The RG is running well again...
Fixed broken earth wire, replaced sparkplug which was black and yucky and also blew into the fuel line (I have a feeling I may have blocked it when I ran the tank dry when I first got it) Still gotta pull the fuel filter out completely and see what its like.. But anyway.. She now starts and runs just fine.. So.. My dirty/greasy hands and broken finger nails paid off!!

Will take it for a few good runs on some straights like I have been told.. Have also been told to regularly check the sparkplug and give it a clean.. Easy access so no harm in doing that once in a while..

I definately will... Just ask Dan, the dimply smile I end up with whenever I've been on my bike is priceless.. He loves it.. And I love it!

Thankyou ;)

EDIT: Fuse has also been replaced

[NotaGoth]

Also the old sparkplug I managed to unscrew with my fingers...Which I was told could be a contributing factor to my problems.. Eg not tight enough bike will lose its compressions when you kick it over.. Someone can correct that or fill me in a little more if need be.. :mellow:

[speeding_ant]

Also the old sparkplug I managed to unscrew with my fingers...Which I was told could be a contributing factor to my problems.. Eg not tight enough bike will lose its compressions when you kick it over.. Someone can correct that or fill me in a little more if need be.. :mellow:

If the spark plug is further away from where it should be it won't actually spark the mix efficiently/or at all, which might be why you're finding it is fouling the plug so fast? Also any "leak" in the chamber will cause compression issues but you wouldnt really find that unless the plug was hanging there :). Get someone to show you how to tighten a spark plug properly, its a good skill to learn and it's not that hard! Also, read over the workshop manual if you get really really bored. It's always nice to know things about your bike you might not have known!

Nothing beats a good smile after a good ride! All the best with your RG! :rockon:

[NotaGoth]

If the spark plug is further away from where it should be it won't actually spark the mix efficiently/or at all, which might be why you're finding it is fouling the plug so fast? Also any "leak" in the chamber will cause compression issues but you wouldnt really find that unless the plug was hanging there :). Get someone to show you how to tighten a spark plug properly, its a good skill to learn and it's not that hard! Also, read over the workshop manual if you get really really bored. It's always nice to know things about your bike you might not have known!

Nothing beats a good smile after a good ride! All the best with your RG! :rockon:

I put the new sparkplug in exactly how I found the old one.. Went down town to get some bright yellow tape so I could tape up the wire that I was uncertain about (a colour that I would find again easily)

Ran into a friend of my dads who came round and showed me how to put the sparkplug in properly and found where the wire went (went where I first thought it may have in the first place before deciding it was a loose wire)

New sparkplugs been in there properly since we changed the old one, and bikes run fine since as mentioned previously.. ;)

[90s]

Also the old sparkplug I managed to unscrew with my fingers...Which I was told could be a contributing factor to my problems.. Eg not tight enough bike will lose its compressions when you kick it over.. Someone can correct that or fill me in a little more if need be.. :mellow:

That would be right.

With my first car, a '72 mini, I had a weekly job of checking the sparkplugs - scraping, checking the gap and for pits, tightening etc. Made worse by the need to use 'damp start' spray all the time and HT leads with life expectancies measured in months at most.
From there moved onto to 50cc singles - if the plug isn't in and working perfectly you get all kinds of horrors. Luckily its easy to learn how to take care of the plug & HT leads etc. If you do ever scrape a plug make sure there are no pits etc on the metal and the metal hasn't eroded, been 'burnt' or bent out of shape or that the gap hasn't changed (no idea how the gap changes but it sure can).

Your single relies totally on a good spark, and only has one plug, so its always worth sticking the best plug in. To my mind NZ weather variations between summer/winter do not need different plugs, and your bike will run best on the recommended plug even though it was designed for extreme Malaysian heat (hence the crazy big radiator and the fact it never gets into the 1/4 temp zone). Obviously jump from the bottom of the tank clogging the system doesn't help performance though, but it sounds as though you are getting on with a real mechanics 101 and are sorting it all. When I got that mini I was forced to learn bit by bit as you are until I did weekly and monthly servicing by routine and it all seemed easy in the end - I think we all go through that process of trial and (occassionally expensive) error*.

*(like the time I mixed up Dad's clutch fluid with 2S oil on his little honda and had to, in order, panic then drain it all out - not easy as I'd added it to the fuel tank)

Glad you are enjoying the bike. I miss it sometime but love my 6 totally. Onwards and upwards.

[speeding_ant]

That would be right.

With my first car, a '72 mini, I had a weekly job of checking the sparkplugs - scraping, checking the gap and for pits, tightening etc. Made worse by the need to use 'damp start' spray all the time and HT leads with life expectancies measured in months at most.
From there moved onto to 50cc singles - if the plug isn't in and working perfectly you get all kinds of horrors. Luckily its easy to learn how to take care of the plug & HT leads etc. If you do ever scrape a plug make sure there are no pits etc on the metal and the metal hasn't eroded, been 'burnt' or bent out of shape or that the gap hasn't changed (no idea how the gap changes but it sure can).

Your single relies totally on a good spark, and only has one plug, so its always worth sticking the best plug in. To my mind NZ weather variations between summer/winter do not need different plugs, and your bike will run best on the recommended plug even though it was designed for extreme Malaysian heat (hence the crazy big radiator and the fact it never gets into the 1/4 temp zone). Obviously jump from the bottom of the tank clogging the system doesn't help performance though, but it sounds as though you are getting on with a real mechanics 101 and are sorting it all. When I got that mini I was forced to learn bit by bit as you are until I did weekly and monthly servicing by routine and it all seemed easy in the end - I think we all go through that process of trial and (occassionally expensive) error*.

*(like the time I mixed up Dad's clutch fluid with 2S oil on his little honda and had to, in order, panic then drain it all out - not easy as I'd added it to the fuel tank)

Glad you are enjoying the bike. I miss it sometime but love my 6 totally. Onwards and upwards.

Correct! Also what I did with the RG is cover 1/3 of the radiator with waterproof card (forgot what it was called) as it always ran a little too cold. I fitted a temp sensor and found it was running a good 15 degrees cooler than the RGs reccomended temperature. I noticed a small improvement in performance and I'm sure the engine loved being a little hotter :)

One relatively easy/difficult? maintainance process you can do is learn how to take the reed valves out and clean the enclosure and the reeds themselves. If it gets really gammy in there you can break the reeds and those reeds are around $300 each!! And you dont want to know what happens if they fall into the cylinder.. :bye: See if anyone can do it/help you do it, its even more fun. Just be prepared to get dirty fingers.

I stripped and cleaned the engine every 6 months and racked up tens of thousands of kms on it. It got to 45,000kms before needing a rebuild, then some $(^&)$#(&) destroyed it after slipping on gravel *whistle*.. :( Such is life

[Squiggles]

two stroke, blow the sh** out of it regularly... i had problems starting and having the bike die when i had one (combination of low octane + alot of SEDATE city riding), took her down the motorway in 2nd gear and POW... there goes a whole lot of crap out the back, ran beaut after that

good trick with the sparkplugs (from my gsxr's haynes manual) is to use a bit of garden hose... put it over it and twist it till the hose starts to slip... that is tight enough (unless of course its getting stuck half way but you can estimate how far down it should go if its wound in fully so can tell if this happens)

[speeding_ant]

two stroke, blow the sh** out of it regularly... i had problems starting and having the bike die when i had one (combination of low octane + alot of SEDATE city riding), took her down the motorway in 2nd gear and POW... there goes a whole lot of crap out the back, ran beaut after that

good trick with the sparkplugs (from my gsxr's haynes manual) is to use a bit of garden hose... put it over it and twist it till the hose starts to slip... that is tight enough (unless of course its getting stuck half way but you can estimate how far down it should go if its wound in fully so can tell if this happens)

That happened to me when I first got my hand on it. After the pow it blew my baffles out with it ;) Then it got so ruddy loud I had to wear earmuffs everytime I went for a ride. Hotdang it was fun when it was loud... Going through Mt Vic at night, clutching the front wheel up.. ahh good times

[FruitLooPs]

Right yeah, RG's eh.

The 'metal box' in your diagram is the piston barrel/cylinder. There is a small box cast into it at the front, thats the powervalve housing. The hose that was full of muck is your powervalve breather pipe as was mentioned. It should have a nipple on the box that it connects to (these often break, i've got a custom bracket holding mine in place). It has a plastic ball down the line yeah.

It prevents you getting oil gunk blown out over your radiator. :yes:

The 'loose wire' you mentioned is for your temp guage, this doesn't need to be attached since the temp guage on an RG is essentially useless anyhow haha.

You should go and get a DSE digital thermometer for it like this:

http://www.dse.co.nz/cgi-bin/dse.storefront/464b99c800a48828273fc0a87f3306d7/Product/View/Y5007

attach the meter just under the keyhole with the velcro provided, and put the external sensor on to the top of the powervalve box (the square off the metal thing ;) ) It'll give you a good indication of how hot/cold the bikes really running.

Don't push the 2stroke hard when it's cold, thats how you ruin the longevity of them. Also use fully syth quality 2-stroke oil (like castrol TTS).

Get your powervalves checked and adjusted (they can wear down and cause big $$, as I know) by whoever looks after streetstock races up north (mostly RG's in that class), down in chch Oyster from KB knows the bikes inside out and back to front and services pretty much all of them.



Oh yeah, that picture you put up of the old plug ... it doesn't look like it has the middle bit (electrode), has it snapped off? that'll make the gap waay too big for the spark to be produced and thus it won't run using that plug.

As for hand tight, thats not going to stop it starting - plugs have a crush ring on them that provides a seal that would be good enough to start the 150 even hand tight (now if it was just loose in the hole thats another matter). If you don't think its hauling butt like it should after about 8k rpm then you should get it checked out.

My RG's cost me a fair bit to look after (as in more than I paid for it!) but thats because It's had high KM's for a 2-stroke (like 50,000km) and I do ride it pretty hard (after warming up etc). Have had it rebuilt and new powervalves etc hehe. Great wee bikes, if you get one with lower km's than mine.

[NotaGoth]

Right yeah, RG's eh.

The 'metal box' in your diagram is the piston barrel/cylinder. There is a small box cast into it at the front, thats the powervalve housing. The hose that was full of muck is your powervalve breather pipe as was mentioned. It should have a nipple on the box that it connects to (these often break, i've got a custom bracket holding mine in place). It has a plastic ball down the line yeah.

It prevents you getting oil gunk blown out over your radiator. :yes:

The 'loose wire' you mentioned is for your temp guage, this doesn't need to be attached since the temp guage on an RG is essentially useless anyhow haha.

You should go and get a DSE digital thermometer for it like this:

http://www.dse.co.nz/cgi-bin/dse.storefront/464b99c800a48828273fc0a87f3306d7/Product/View/Y5007

attach the meter just under the keyhole with the velcro provided, and put the external sensor on to the top of the powervalve box (the square off the metal thing ;) ) It'll give you a good indication of how hot/cold the bikes really running.

Don't push the 2stroke hard when it's cold, thats how you ruin the longevity of them. Also use fully syth quality 2-stroke oil (like castrol TTS).

Get your powervalves checked and adjusted (they can wear down and cause big $$, as I know) by whoever looks after streetstock races up north (mostly RG's in that class), down in chch Oyster from KB knows the bikes inside out and back to front and services pretty much all of them.



Oh yeah, that picture you put up of the old plug ... it doesn't look like it has the middle bit (electrode), has it snapped off? that'll make the gap waay too big for the spark to be produced and thus it won't run using that plug.

As for hand tight, thats not going to stop it starting - plugs have a crush ring on them that provides a seal that would be good enough to start the 150 even hand tight (now if it was just loose in the hole thats another matter). If you don't think its hauling butt like it should after about 8k rpm then you should get it checked out.

My RG's cost me a fair bit to look after (as in more than I paid for it!) but thats because It's had high KM's for a 2-stroke (like 50,000km) and I do ride it pretty hard (after warming up etc). Have had it rebuilt and new powervalves etc hehe. Great wee bikes, if you get one with lower km's than mine.


Yes you hit it right on the spot as to what I was referring to… Attaches to the box on the front bit that’s facing the radiator..
Umm well I think that hose came loose some time ago cause its really dirty in around that area…. Like gunky now that I look… And when I was taking a look I did wonder what it was for and why it was so dirty…

The picture of the old spark plug isn’t very clear I can’t get a better picture for you.. The electrode is there (not snapped off) just covered in heaps of crap… Mum reckons its fouled (she rides also) Dans taking it into his work to show the guy there who has been offering advice...

Then again hauling butt.. Its my first bike and I wouldn’t have any idea as to how it should be running (haven’t had it long).. Or what its actual pick up should be like as I don’t know the bike.. It is all a new learning curve for me…

The Castrol TTS is whats was being used in it when I purchased the bike.. Ran out and the bike shop up here sold me what he said was pretty much exactly the same thing… then again I learnt in the start not to trust him..

So what exactly is a powervalve and what exactly does it do..? lol

I guess I’ll have to plan a trip to Whangarei by the sounds of it…

I do agree great wee bikes.. And at the end of the day still the best decision I made for my first bike

[FruitLooPs]

I do agree great wee bikes.. And at the end of the day still the best decision I made for my first bike

Yeah they're loads of fun. Use the TTS, not something thats 'similar' try and stick with the same oil, since some are mineral and some synthetic. When I got my bike it was using mineral 2 stroke castrol and it needed a $700 rebuild (probaby not related) but i was told to run TTS by Oyster as thats what the race bikes down here use and its done them great so far. The flatslide carb on them makes them pretty boggy down low, but once you get up in the revs and hit hte powerband they're pretty sensitive to throttle application.


So what exactly is a powervalve and what exactly does it do..? lol


So power valves, they alter the size of your exhaust port basically.

http://www.rgv250.co.uk/Powervalve.jpg they look like that, you've got two in that box at the front. They're actuated by a motor and cable system when it gets a signal to open them (up in the revs).

They're right above where your exhaust joins the cylinder because they move in and out and change the size of the exhaust port/hole. If you see from that picture the smooth curved part of the face on them, that effectively becomes a part of the port for the exhaust gasses, and it can vary by sliding in and out (the blades move, one in the picture is dismantled).

That changes the amount of exhuast flow, depending on ya revs. They're fully in when you first go, making the hole exhaust smaller and helping lower power and they open up when you get past about 7,200rpm from memory.

Basically, as you get to higher revs with them (a smaller exhaust hole in the engine) then you start to lose power because of the restriction, so they open up at the crossover point (in suzuki AETC like on your RG the powervalve is split into 3 parts, so it can be more than just on/off. Smoother) Then it opens up and you have a bigger gap for more exhaust to exit as the revs go up. Vrrrooom!

wiki if you really want to get into it more hehe :yes:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2-stroke_power_valve_system