RF900 enquiry.

[zeocen]

This is quite a while off now, but I figured I'd try soak in as much info as I can now so when I get my full/money in a few months I can dive straight into it.

Without seeing it in real life, I've pretty much fallen in love with the Suzuki RF 900.. The look appeals to me in a big way and I like the (very small?) tour side of it. The 1995ish model. Being a die hard kwaka fanboy this is a "Big Thing" to dig a different japanese brand so much :shutup:

I know some people around here have them and I was wondering what they are like for a) general all round use (primary transport) b) touring, c) track days/finding new ways of killing myself. And also their value in terms of money, I have to say they're very desirable for the prices I've seen them go for (albeit with high miles).

And finally, as i'll be going from a 250 straight to a 900 if I do decide this is the bike for me, is it a wise decision? Is it forgiving or a bit of a hardcase?

I was initially looking at a ZZR600/ZZR1100 (mostly, the latter :innocent: ) and having ridden a ZZR1100 in safe enviroments I feel pretty comfortable and feel I have enough self restraint to not twist my wrist *too* far. Does anyone know how the RF900 compares to, say a ZZR1000 of the same year?

By no means am I looking for a _FAST_ bike, just a nice solid all rounder for my size (6'1ish, 88kg).

Sorry to anyone who hates this bike or thinks this post is a bit too early to be asking such questions, hopefully I don't get eaten alive in the sports bike forum section! :scooter: :scooter:

Thanks in advance !

[Devil]

RF's are great. Tour easily, plenty comfy and bloody good value.

No problem going to a 900, it's all based on self control. The RF wont bite unless you're a moron.

BUT, ride more bikes first... There are many many great bikes out there.

[WRT]

I had an RF600 a few years back, fantastic bike. Did a lot of touring on it, including two up. Used it for commuting, for a long long time it was my only form of transport, and was all I needed. Comfy, roomy, fastish (for a 600 sport tourer), handled respectibly, and looked the biz. If I was looking for a cheap sport tourer, the RF900 would be very high up on my list of bikes to keep an eye out for.

[DingDong]

Great tourer, comfy and very stable to ride (no nasty niggles) as long as you keep good rubber on it, Pilot Road are cheap and suit the RF well.

In my opinion the RF900 is the best all rounder you can get for 5K (or 7K for that matter)

One thing thats not good though, the drive chain is 532, It'll cost $500 for either a new chain or conversion kit to 530, some still buy the $500 chain?

[riffer]

Bollocks on the chain. Use the GSXR1100 chain and sprockets, I replaced mine for $320 all up.

I paid $4750 for a 95 with 45,000 miles on the clock. 18 months later it's now done 62,000 miles.

I've found it to be pretty hard on front tyres - it tends to triangulate them, but its got a front-heavy bias so not unexpected.

The lack of a fuel gauge is a pain - especially with a reserve that lasts a good 80-90 kms.

Big problems with the carbs. Pay attention to the needle jets and the emulsion tubes they run in - its a problem with Mikuni downdraught carbies - friction as the jet needle slides and it wears the needles and emulsion tubes. I've replaced mine with the carbs from the 135HP MantaRay model, and freed up the exhaust and it flies now.

There's a known problem with the alternator cush drive - in some of the earlier models (94, 95) the drive for the alternator failed and they replaced a part to stop it snapping - unfortunately this part only lasts about 20,000 kms so needs to be checked often - and its a prick to get at too.

Don't leave it lying around in the rain because it won't run on four cylinders afterwards. It's a problem with the water either getting into the coils or the low-tension leads just behind the headstock. My solution is to smear Vaseline into the low tension connections as they exit the wiring loom and as they enter the coils. Others have had problems with the spark plug boots but not me, so I'm hesitant to say its an RF problem.

The brakes are non-standard for a Suzuki (Nissin - normally found on Hondas) but they will take the Tokicos from the Hayabusa which apparently is a mod worth doing.

The whole bottom end (with the exception of the clutch) is straight out of the GSXR1100 so its bulletproof.

The RF has a steel perimeter frame so in the unlikely event of a bent frame at least it is actually fixable, unlike an alloy frame.

Most RFs have about 125 at the crank, but you can get a lot, lot more. To meet American emission standards they did the same trick as on the gixxers - look for the pink wire just under the battery on the gear lever side - more midrange power in 3rd gear if you undo it. You can drill and remount the digital pickup as they will easily take another 4 or 5 degrees of advance. Also, putting in the cams from the 92 GSXR750 will help liberate even more power. With these two mods and a rejet you could get 160HP.

Good for 265km/hr on a good day. Best kept secret in motorcycling.

At my old work I loaded the manual on the file server. Its still on there (suckers).

The manual is here:

http://view2.aimproximity.co.nz/Simo...air_Manual.pdf (http://view2.aimproximity.co.nz/Simon/RF900R_Repair_Manual.pdf)

The parts fiche is here:

http://view2.aimproximity.co.nz/Simo...microfiche.pdf (http://view2.aimproximity.co.nz/Simon/rf900r_microfiche.pdf)

[Dooly]

Excellent bike.
I'd have another one anytime.
Fast and comfy.

[zeocen]

Thanks for the write up riffer !! Very interesting indeed, seems if I buy one of these I won't be bored with upgrading that's for sure.

Argh, *pulls the months to come faster* .. I have looked at a wide variety of bikes but I always end up back at sport-tours like the ZZR and now RF, and I'm liking the RF more and more everytime I hear about it.

I didn't realise it had such power/power potential though, very exciting.

Thanks again everyone for the info!

[rogson]

........Fast and comfy.

I'll second that. I had the ignition problem mentioned above but also fixed it by employing the method described above. The main fuse also blew on a really hot day when the electrics couldn't cope with the headlight, fan, indicators and brakelight all being on at the same time. I carried a spare fuse on the bike. Will do 160 2-up on the flat tyre (don't ask me how I know).

[riffer]

Will do 160 2-up

I have it on good knowledge that an RF900 will do 160+ two-up with Colapop on the back...

[Colapop]

They will and do... apparently... :innocent:

[F5 Dave]

I'm really enjoying mine again after sorting out the emulsion tubes the DIY way (one didn't work so needed a respin). Then I changed the knackered chain & it was like a new bike. 530 conversion is the way to go.

But I'm going to mention it. Sod going from a 250 to a 900. Still good for wellll over 100 hp & a big heavy bike to boot. Being tall & strong will only help wheeling the bike around.

I'd say forget your ego & look at a 600 instead. A friend just did & despite being 40 decided that he really didn't need the extra & now is glad he didn't make such a big jump. Used to be a chap on here regularly, he went from 250 to R1 & was always calling the No problem changing from a 250. Crashed the bike to bits twice, the 2nd time irreparably damaging himself. What's the rush?
[bleat over].

[zeocen]

Oh there's no rush at all mate, like I said I by no means want a fast bike.. down the road, sure. It's just the fact that from scouring various places it seems that there are quite a few RF900's going around and I've only seen one RF600 so far, other model 600's seem to be a bit more pricey than the RF900's i've seen.

It's definately not about ego, it's just about finding the right bike.. I wouldn't call it "no problem" from moving up, but if I did buy something close to a litre bike I'd treat it with respect everytime I put my leg over. Just like I have done , and still do treat my 250 with respect. There'll be no wheelies or 23845kmph drags for me.. I'm more of a tour and take in the scenery rider than, ride into a corner due to lack of experience/respect.

Hope this didn't come off defensive, just letting you know that a litre bike isn't my only option! I just like everything about what I've seen and read of the RF900.

[Colapop]

It gets my big fat arse around

[R1madness]

Great bike (if you can get over the fat arse look on them). We could sell plenty if we had them. I do agree that its a big move from a 250 but you seem to be talking the right talk about restraint etc...... How long have you been riding? if you have been on your 250 for a while (years) i dont think you will have too many problems.
Other choices to consider are:
VFR800
FZR1000exup
YZF1000 (Thunderace)
YZF600 (thundercat)
all would rate in my books.

[Grahameeboy]

I had one. 98 Canadian spec.

Cush drive covered under warranty

Ignition advancer with K&N. Did't have to alter the needle. Made a huge difference.....a lot quicker and kept standard pipes.

Put heavier front fork springs and had the rear re-valved with an Ohlins spring so had both spanner and thread adjustment.

Made it handle like a dream.

Didn't like sintered pads as needed to replace the rear disc.

Also put a more powerful bulb in rear light....100% brighter.

Never got top speed but did 140 mph (8,000rpm) easy on SH1 Motorway.

[Grahameeboy]

It gets my big fat arse around

Yep, agree having followed you.........

[Colapop]

In a car....

[Grahameeboy]

In a car....

yep....ended up passing ya nd having to wait......

[Colapop]

We'll see if you can navigate round my town as well as I did round yours...

[Grahameeboy]

We'll see if you can navigate round my town as well as I did round yours...

You could not even navigate a roundabout I recall ya mongrel.......have been to Wellington so you are on........buses must be easy to use!!

Now, follow SH1, carry onto Silverdale off ramp....easy so far.......turn right for Whangaparoa....just folllow the road.....easy peasy.....oh oh a roundabout..luck a gayboy was up his rear and able to put him straight........all that in 800k's.......1 straight road, 1 off ramp, 2 right turns and one roundabout.............geeze must be hard navigating up here

[hellnback]

...I was initially looking at a ZZR600/ZZR1100 (mostly, the latter :innocent: ) and having ridden a ZZR1100 in safe enviroments I feel pretty comfortable and feel I have enough self restraint to not twist my wrist *too* far. Does anyone know how the RF900 compares to, say a ZZR1000 of the same year?

The ZZR600 is an excellent bike to upgrade to from the 250. Nice comfy riding position plenty of power (a lot more than other sport/tourers of the same year). They handle bloody well. Really gutted to have wrote mine off.

Anyway, you say that your not after a fast bike but remember that the ZZR1100 was the fastest production bike of it's time, you'd have to admit that that's pretty damn fast....

As for the RF great bike also - for a suzuki that is....

COMPARISON (http://www.motorbikes.be/en/compare/1561/1359/)

[F5 Dave]

Cool. Yeah not sure the RF600s were a patch on the 9s, but heaps of other cool choices.

[gav]

Hey F5 Dave, who or what did you do to repair the emulsion tubes in your RF900 carbs?
My RF has done 40,000 miles, runs rough off low throttle and guzzles gas like a two stroke! 100 miles tops before fuel light comes on!! Looking at buying Factory kit out of the States, but for similiar money could prob get some GSXR750 carbs out off ebay? Looking at some 38mm SRAD carbs at the moment, would these be suitable? Or better off buying some more RF900 carbs?

[riffer]

Hi Gav,

I recently completely replaced the carbs on my RF.

See my Stupid RF900 Mikuni Downdraught carbs thread (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php?t=44711&highlight=mikuni).

F5Dave had a lot of success with the Factory Pro parts.

Are the SRAD downdraughts? You may have difficulty getting them to fit with the airbox if they are not. You could also look into carbs off an FZR750R, FZR1000, or YZF750. From memory these are the same Mikuni DDs.

Of course, if money's no object (it was definitely an object for me) I found out that Keihin FCR 016-504 (£830.00!!) are a wonderful bolt-on replacement. Throw in an advance kit, a free-flow pipe and the cams from a 1992 GSXR750 and you'll get 160HP+.

edit: I've had a look on www.motorcyclecarbs.com to see what they've got. Check them out - they may be able to help you. I know they absolutely don't have the carb slides or slide holders - no-one does :(

[surfchick]

pm MDU he's had the trusty RF for a looooooong time. i took it for a spin when i was upgrading from the 250 and was shocked and i mean shocked how much lighter handling it was than it looked - because of its whale like features I thought it would feel bad-asse heavy. but no it was pretty sweet. MDU's one seems bullet proof too as it has gazillions of ks on there and he commutes daily.def. you'd be fine to go from a 250 to the rf. the 900cc's is very forgiving and smooth/relaxed shall we say ;)

[gav]

Thanks for the info, yeah, does look as if the SRAD carbs are not suitable.
Where did you source yours from Riffer?

[90s]

The RF6 & 9s are great bikes. I base this on seeing them, reviews and stats, and knowing people that own them rather than my experience, so my opinion is a lot less useful than some of the excellent advice you've had already.
However, the RFs are actually very powerful, as you can see.
I would say that if you are into them you might also like the GSX-Fs, which have a similar fully-faired look, are of a similar vintage, come in 600 & 750 flavours and are a little tamer (although even my 6 will pull 0-60mph in 4.5s). You will find they are very similar to RFs but quite a lot cheaper. They are even more biased towards touring than the RFs.
I suppose I also have some reservation about the jump straight to an RF9 as a potential 160 horses is some power. After my GSX-6 I would consider an RF9 though.

My two-dollars worth (actually worth about 50c after discount against better advice ... )

[zeocen]

Oooh yay, the thread got revived! hehe

Thanks 90s, I was actually under the impression that the GSX's were much more expensive than the rf's? I've seen a few GSX's for sale, usually 750's but they're mostly around '88 -> early 90's. Whereas the RF900's i've seen are around 95 - 97. Is it wrong to assume that there would be a significant jump in technology/stability on a bike from those years apart?

I quite like the look of the GSX, and I think 750 would be a good comprimise of power (I too know 900cc is a wide step, but yeah, self restraint = live longer = more riding!)

[riffer]

Thanks for the info, yeah, does look as if the SRAD carbs are not suitable.
Where did you source yours from Riffer?

Off the best motorcycle wreckers available to New Zealand - Victorian Motorcycle Wreckers.

All up including shipping they set me back $435. A lot cheaper than the Keihins and when you've got four kids who all need to be fed and clothed moneys always a consideration.

[gav]

Off the best motorcycle wreckers available to New Zealand - Victorian Motorcycle Wreckers.

All up including shipping they set me back $435. A lot cheaper than the Keihins and when you've got four kids who all need to be fed and clothed moneys always a consideration.

Yeah, thats who I've tried, he's got some FZR1000 Exup carbs, $300AUS + shipping. Would these be a straight fit?

[gav]

And if youre considering buying a RF900, now seems to be the time. There are some bloody bargains on Trade Me, you're getting one hell of a good bike.
I sold my mint 2001 VFR800, and bought a cheapish RF900 to do a couple of rallies on. It surprised me just how good it was, to be honest. Its faster and weighs less than the VFR, handles pretty good and is so comfortable.
Heres an interesting link worth reading.
http://www.mcnews.com.au/Testing/rf900.htm

[90s]

Oooh yay, the thread got revived! hehe

Thanks 90s, I was actually under the impression that the GSX's were much more expensive than the rf's? I've seen a few GSX's for sale, usually 750's but they're mostly around '88 -> early 90's. Whereas the RF900's i've seen are around 95 - 97. Is it wrong to assume that there would be a significant jump in technology/stability on a bike from those years apart?

I quite like the look of the GSX, and I think 750 would be a good comprimise of power (I too know 900cc is a wide step, but yeah, self restraint = live longer = more riding!)

They still make the GSX-Fs so you can get them the same age as the RFs, where I found them to be a bit cheaper than RFs on TM when I was looking. However, they end up a lot cheaper when you get an older GSX of course - although you get an older bike. Mine's got 98k on the clock and was serviced today - no problems.
You'd have to ask the experts on whether the tech is a lot better on the RFs, but both seem pretty basic really. RFs might be a little more adjustable on the rear?

[F5 Dave]

Yeah I've got factorypro jet kit in the RF & it seemed pretty good. But pull all the slides out & check if they are worn. I ended up building the white parts up with epoxy & bugger me it seems to be staying. I think I've posted pictures & a super lame drawing of the parts I made to recon the emulsion tubes previously.

Any small engineering shop with a lathe can make the parts out of brass. I've just got my lathe a couple of weeks back, but not wired in yet & I'm a complete novice so I won't offer to try fix anything until I find out if I can use it usefully.

Let us know if you can't find previous pictures on here.

[ManDownUnder]

I have it on good knowledge that an RF900 will do 160+ two-up with Colapop on the back...

mpd or kpd?

LOL - yeah all that's bee said on the RF is good. I've had no problems with mine. Only issue was a total electrical failure that turned out to be the battery... not bad for a bike with 82,000kms on it. As for the chain. Dunno what i got, but it gets semi regular lube and has easily lasted 50,000 kms... plenty of life left yet.

They're a good bike but I'd encourage you to try a range of stuff to be sure.

Value for money they're very hard to beat

[riffer]

Mine just sailed through its warrant this morning. :)

Not bad for an 11-year old bike with 100,000 kms on the clock.

And yeah Nige - that was km/hrs I was talking about. Have you met Colapop? The bike's not THAT powerful.

[riffer]

Yeah, thats who I've tried, he's got some FZR1000 Exup carbs, $300AUS + shipping. Would these be a straight fit?

I doubt a straight fit. They are BDSTs, aren't they though, so a bit of work would make them fit. You'd have to remove the carbs and reposition them on the RF carb carriers if the spacing between the inlets was different. AFAIK, the FZR1000s, Ducati Monster M900, Yamaha TDM850s, (although only 2 of them), XJ600 Seca and YZF750/1000's used BDST38's, a bit bigger, so possibly a jetting nightmare. Also, the inlet rubbers would be a bit different at the airbox side, wouldn't they? Not too sure if the inlet manifold side is a different diameter with the 38mms compared to the 36mms... I chickened out and used the RF carbs sorry.

Here's a link to a place in the UK that does RF parts (http://shop.wemoto.com/index.dyn?oid=1915519). No carbs though.

edit: Had another thought. The 2003 Bandit 1200 uses Mikuni BDST36SS carbs, exactly the same as the RF900, and there's a truckload of Bandits around. I wonder if you would have more luck with these?

[F5 Dave]

Heck I would avoid using carbs from another bike, chances of it not being a jetting nightmare are pretty slim.

[MSTRS]

They still make the GSX-Fs so you can get them the same age as the RFs, where I found them to be a bit cheaper than RFs on TM when I was looking. However, they end up a lot cheaper when you get an older GSX of course - although you get an older bike. Mine's got 98k on the clock and was serviced today - no problems.
You'd have to ask the experts on whether the tech is a lot better on the RFs, but both seem pretty basic really. RFs might be a little more adjustable on the rear?

Couldn't say. But the RF900 used the earlier oil-cooled GSXR1100 bottom end. When Suzuki changed to watercooled, they had a swag of these engines 'lying around', so they used them to power a cheap, powerful sports-tourer. The g/box is 5spd and the engines are under-stressed as has been said already. Many will still have the old size chain/sprockets @ 532...when worn out, best to replace with a 530 kit.

[riffer]

Maybe, maybe.

The RF is a water-cooled engine though, so surely that can't be the reason why they used that bottom end. Probably used it because it was such a good design. Haven't they also used it for the 1200 Bandit and GSX1200 & GSX1400s?

Adjustment on the rear is pretty basic but probably better than the GSX-F. It's got the preload, adjustable with a c-spanner; compression damping, adjustable by a screw on the outboard reservoir; and rebound damping, adjustable by a dial on the underneath of the shock. What do the GSX-F's have?

As for using carbs off another bike Dave, if you used BDST36SS carbs with the same jetting, how much of a baseline would that give you for the RF?

Probably easier to sort out than going for a BDST38? Either way, RF carbs are getting hard to come by.

I've still got the old carbs off mine. With the exception of the throttle slides and slide holders, they're in good nick (no1 has no float needle - I dropped it and couldn't find it). What parts do you need to fix? I'm thinking unless your throttle slides and holders are rooted you're definitely going to be better off getting new jet needles and needle jet tubes.

[F5 Dave]

Depends what you mean by the same jetting. So you could swap over the mains & pilots, but what about the air corrector jets etc & would the emulsion tubes be the same, if so would they be any better ? Slides & guides wear & bugger the tubes, so good guides seems paramount.

[yod]

interesting info here (http://www.factorypro.com/Prod_Pages/prods79.html)- see comment at the bottom from a kiwi

[gav]

Hmmm, so looking at that link would the emulsion tubes be all I need or would I need the Titanium needles as well? The 4 degree rotor advancer would be worth getting as well? Bike has done 40,000 miles, has K&N filter and Scorpion pipe fitted.

[riffer]

Hey Gav - have you pulled the carbs apart? It definitely sounds like ovalisation of the emulsion tubes (needle jets).

If I were you (and had more money than me) I would replace both the needle jet and the jet needles as a pair.

I noticed with mine that when I took out the needles they were worn on the edge from rubbing against the tube.

Pay careful attention to the slides when you take them out too. They are made of a very soft plastic which wears a bit. Did you look at my carburettor thread? There's some pics there that illustrate the problem well. F5Dave is the only guys I've heard of that's developed a repair technique that seems to work.

That 4 degree advancer looks the bizzo for sure. Just like those Slingshot 750 gixxer cams...

[90s]

GSXf used the original gsxr750 engine, so the 6s are very unstressed, but 'race bred' if you like that kind of thing.

I'm sure you have noticed but there's some nice looking ones here on kb for sale at the mo:
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showpost.php?bikead=yes&p=1086536

and re: prices I paid $2k for my '88 with 90,000k on the clock and no issues after 7000ks in 6 months.

[gav]

OK, pulled the carbs out today, not sure if they are that badly worn or not, have tried taking some photos.

[riffer]

Okay Gav, its a little hard to tell from your pics as they are pretty out of focus, but my first thing that concerns me is that the end of the jet needle is broken off, it looks like.

My jet needles taper to a point just a bit thicker than a sailmakers needle - yours look like the point is about 2mm or more wide!

Also, can you take an in-focus shot of the throttle slide inside the slide holder mechanism. This is where the wear occurs and you will see it allows some slop in the throttle slide. Which means the jet needle moves around as it goes up and down, causing inevitable wear of the tubes.

[gav]

Emulsion tube, or Needle Jet as per Suzuki parts fiche.
Damn, hard to get decent photos!

[Squiggles]

i havent heard people describe it as a wild bike so as long as you're restrained you should be fine i went 250 2 stroke to the GSXR and lived :yes:

[gav]

Broken? Don't think so, they taper down then maybe last 2mm taper off sharply to point. Kinda like the end of a pencil? Is this not normal for these? The black throttle slide when sitting in throttle slide holder sits quite flush, no sign of flaring that appeared in your photos?

[riffer]

Okay, it's gotta be your photos then mate.

I reckon (and take this with a pinch of salt, as I'm no expert) that as long as you don't have any ovalisation in the needle jets (emulsion tubes), the jet needles aren't worn and banging around in the jets, and there's no major wear in the throttle slides, you're looking now at the easy bits to fix.

I still think your needle jets will be worn at that amount of mileage, so if you've got the bucks go for that, and replace the float needles too. Have you taken them out and looked at them? They tend to get a bit worn and look like pyramids that have their tops worn away from them, and this might play havoc with the fuelling.

Also, it might pay to check the diaphragm rubbers as well. Make sure they seat right when you put them back in.

I need to balance my carbs, but I don't have the tools. Are there any KBers in Welly with the tools who feel like coming around and talking shit and balancing some carbs with me?

[Deviant Esq]

Damn, hard to get decent photos!
Gav, if your digical camera has a macro focus mode (and I'd highly doubt it wouldn't), use that to take close up shots of your bits (carbs! :eek:). To find out if you're on macro focus or indeed if your camera has one, there will be a picture of a flower on one of your buttons, and hopefully it should show up on your screen as well once it's activated. This is used to focus on objects quite close to the lens of the camera. Make sure you've got good light though, if you don't the camera will use a longer exposure time and you'll get blur from handshake.

Sorry, I'm not much use on carbs unfortunately (hell, don't really know that much about photography either! Useless all around... :lol:), but hopefully this will enable you to take a better photo for the experts to examine!

AFAIK, T.W.R knows a thing or two about carbs. Not too sure he's as familiar with Suzuki bits, though.

[F5 Dave]

A phone is not a camera, they only do impressions.

Either way hold the tube up to the light & check for ovalisation. It may be hard to pick, harder to photo.

[Deviant Esq]

A phone is not a camera, they only do impressions.
I was only taking a photo of my phone keypad to show how the focus should look on a macrofocus image of something small or detailed at close range... in no way am I suggesting that a cellphone makes an adequade digital camera for this sort of photography. Some are pretty darn good though, 3MP with a macro focus switch... but you need steady hands as the lens is small.

Anyway, not really relevant to the thread, so I'll shut up. :shutup:
As you were...

[Bend-it]

Plus, 1994 and still current holder of 24hr endurance record for a motorcycle! Average of 246km/h over 24hours!! Incredible!!

Good one for sale here: http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php?t=51396

;)

[zeocen]

Do you accept buttons and perhaps pieces of string?

God what I would give for a better paying job right now, I would literally jump right into a loan. :(

*Stamps feet*

[Bend-it]

how long?

;)

[zeocen]

Give me a new job and the piece of string will be infinite !

[MSTRS]

Give me a new job and the piece of string will be infinite !

Psst...you fool...splice together the ends of a piece you already have. That'll make it endless. He'll never know....

[gav]

Gav, if your digical camera has a macro focus mode (and I'd highly doubt it wouldn't), use that to take close up shots of your bits (carbs! :eek:). To find out if you're on macro focus or indeed if your camera has one, there will be a picture of a flower on one of your buttons, and hopefully it should show up on your screen as well once it's activated. This is used to focus on objects quite close to the lens of the camera. Make sure you've got good light though, if you don't the camera will use a longer exposure time and you'll get blur from handshake.

Sorry, I'm not much use on carbs unfortunately (hell, don't really know that much about photography either! Useless all around... :lol:), but hopefully this will enable you to take a better photo for the experts to examine!

AFAIK, T.W.R knows a thing or two about carbs. Not too sure he's as familiar with Suzuki bits, though.
Macro? Flowers? WTF? Nah, fairly ancient, but does have a website for info,
http://www.kodak.com/global/en/service/digCam/dc3200/ownerManual/toc.shtml

I used "Best Quality" with no flash, can't ya tell? :innocent:

[Deviant Esq]

Macro? Flowers? WTF? Nah, fairly ancient, but does have a website for info...

I used "Best Quality" with no flash, can't ya tell? :innocent:
LOL, DC3200... I had one of those back in the dark ages as my first digital camera, you have my sympathy! Thinking back now I think "How the hell did that thing warrant a $450 price tag?!" I ended up giving mine away to my partner's father, who'd probably never buy a digital camera anyway. He's happy with it and it gets a bit of use, so it's all good. Not surprised you find it tough to good photos with it!

[90s]

LOL, DC3200... I had one of those back in the dark ages as my first digital camera, you have my sympathy! Thinking back now I think "How the hell did that thing warrant a $450 price tag?!" I ended up giving mine away to my partner's father, who'd probably never buy a digital camera anyway. He's happy with it and it gets a bit of use, so it's all good. Not surprised you find it tough to good photos with it!

I used a Sony that took 1.44 floppies and no other in-built memory. Ha! It even took video clips of all of 4 seconds.

But even that had a macro setting.

[Bend-it]

Give me a new job and the piece of string will be infinite !

Woohoo...

This is the string that never ends
Yes it goes on and on my friend...

[yod]

I used a Sony that took 1.44 floppies and no other in-built memory. Ha! It even took video clips of all of 4 seconds.

But even that had a macro setting.

:lol: i used to have the slightly older model - didnt do movies, max res was 640x480, cost me $1500 in about 98-99 i think....FARK! :laugh:

[gav]

The camera only cost me $20, Ok for photo's on Trade Me I suppose.......

[Chocky]

Hi ppl I'm new here, been riding 20 years but only had my RF900r 6 months I got it off Frosty aparantly he shows up here sometimes. Any way can someone point me to the right thread for suspension setup on my '95 I'm a hard core rider who likes the twistys (scenic dr, Piha rd) but I keep riding off the edge of the rear (ie. Im running out of lean angle, it power slides nicely on the bt021's I fitted last week) anyway Im thinking that the susp. cld be set up better and was hoping someone cld point me in the right direction

[Macstar]

Hi ppl I'm new here, been riding 20 years but only had my RF900r 6 months I got it off Frosty aparantly he shows up here sometimes. Any way can someone point me to the right thread for suspension setup on my '95 I'm a hard core rider who likes the twistys (scenic dr, Piha rd) but I keep riding off the edge of the rear (ie. Im running out of lean angle, it power slides nicely on the bt021's I fitted last week) anyway Im thinking that the susp. cld be set up better and was hoping someone cld point me in the right direction

Mine and a few others' RFs rear shocks progressively died after about 40k miles / 60km. luckily this guy can rebuilt it for an awesome price:

Tjebe Bruin
Ph: 480-9408

I'm around 95kgs and got a heavier spring at the same time from Tjebe. The new rebuilt shock is great!

But before you do all that try and do the right set up i.e. pre-load to set the static sag, loaded sag etc. and then you try tampering with the dampner which is located under the seat behind the left side fairing (hard and soft).

If you want a hand (not that I'm a pro or anything) I'll have some time on Sun avo 027-447-6683.

[steveb64]

Oooh yay, the thread got revived! hehe

Thanks 90s, I was actually under the impression that the GSX's were much more expensive than the rf's? I've seen a few GSX's for sale, usually 750's but they're mostly around '88 -> early 90's. Whereas the RF900's i've seen are around 95 - 97. Is it wrong to assume that there would be a significant jump in technology/stability on a bike from those years apart?

I quite like the look of the GSX, and I think 750 would be a good comprimise of power (I too know 900cc is a wide step, but yeah, self restraint = live longer = more riding!)

My wife has had both the RF900, and the GSX750F - her favourite was the GSX! The thing she (we) didn't like about the RF was the riding position - we found that the footpegs were too far forward, which meant the rider had 2 problems:
1/. The riding position meant that the rider is sitting on the bony part of their arse - which got numb real quick (2 - 300 k's) - really noticeable when switching from the Ducati (5 - 800k's)or the TDM850 that was with us.
2/. The footpeg position being so far forward, means that its real difficult to stand up on the pegs from a sitting position - so big bumps couldn't be eased by lifting ones backside in the air a bit.

BTW - we did about 14,000 km's around Europe, the IOM (including the TT) and the UK in 9 weeks - and we didn't do a huge mileage in the two weeks we were at the TT. We did swap bikes from time to time - just for a change - and we all had sheepskins on the seats...

If the footpegs were further back (rearsets?), it would make quite a difference - other than that - not a bad bike. Handled well, was reliable (while we had it), and if you wrung it's neck - could really hustle along!

The pricing thing is because Suzuki discounted the hell out of the RF in NZ - back around mid '96. Thus the wifes RF stayed in the UK, and just the Ducati got shipped back.