That huge nut that's under that huge steel thingie?

[kneescraper]

Hey all,

Quick questions, while painting the top of my triple trees I noticed that the large nut under the top triple tree is lose. This is nut that keeps the head bearing and all that together I'm guessing! Should this be done up super tight? or does it not matter it being lose?

Sorry about my lack of knowlage when it comes to names of parts :)

[riffer]

You don't want it super tight at all. On my RF900 its not a lot more than finger tight.

You see, in the steering head there's two sets of tapered roller bearings (the entire assembly looks conical in it's cross-section), one at the top pointing downwards, and the other at the bottom pointing upwards.

As you tighten the bolt with a C-spanner it brings the roller bearings tighter into the races (they sit in the steering head of the frame and look like really thick bracelets - and they are mildly conical in internal cross-section too) and it tightens up the steering.

The best way to check the tightness of the steering is to use some old-fashioned weight scales (max weight about 500gms - 1kg) on a string. Tie one end to one bar end and the other to an arbitrary place at the back of the wall.

Tighten the nut, the loosen until it lets go at about 500gms of weight at both ends. That's usually about the right amount.

Then put the triple clamp cover on and tighten the top nut.

Its a bit different from bike to bike (especially if the bars connect to the top triple clamp) but generally this is how you do it.

[kneescraper]

Ahh so its ok as is then, thanks for the response matie.

[surfer]

You'll soon know if it isn't tight enough as under heavy braking your handlebars will bounce or jump. If this happens it needs tightening up a bit more.

[NZsarge]

You should take it to your local Suzuki dealer and get them to check for correct tension, they should be able to run a torque wrench over it and put on spec required tightness. Really if they're any kind of decent people they should'nt chanrge you for the two minutes it would take to do that.

[FROSTY]

RIFFER--this may explain summat that bugged me in your bike.
Short version Kneescraper--YES that nut thingee IS too loose.
Both of you guys -
Loosen the bolts holding ya top tripple clamp in place -including he one in the middle.
Get a mate to balance the bike on the back wheel/ sidestand so the front wheel is off the ground. Use your C spanner (carefully use old screwdriver/hammer) and tighten the bearings up (that nut thingee) untill the front wheel falls to one side or the other SLOWLY--in other words a tadd tighter than freeely falling and you would normally have it.
Riffer-let me know if that lil pulse goes away and if shes a lil less um "flighty"in bumpy corners

[riffer]

You mean RF's aren't supposed to tank slapper powering out of corners? I'll look into it again mate...

It was one of my initial thoughts, and I completely redid the steering head when I was originally looking into it, but I'd discounted it as the steering head bearings just didn't seem to have any slop in them.

It was interesting to me that the steering got so tight so quickly on the RF with a shade over finger tight, particularly as my previous bike (the FZR750R) required a heck of a lot more tension to stop it slopping about.

It's a good thought though, as I haven't been able to dial out that slight shake at 80km/hr. I have some job interviews tomorrow, but it sounds like a good reason to spend some time in the gargre.

It could be a bit of slop in the top bearing that I haven't noticed. Cheers.

[kneescraper]

Ahhh, good information there. I will do as you all say....Im glad I asked the question, puts my mind as ease.

[Chrislost]

on my bike if i let go of the bars at anyspeed above 50ks i would notice them moving foward and back by a cm or so.
new head bearings and its gone.
dont get tank slappers coming outa corners in first anymore though :(