DR650 owners register here.

[hondav2]

Just thought I would start off a thread for owners of DR650s . Lets hear from you guys . Here is one of my rides
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=78644
and here is another.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=137804

Cheers Toddy

[NordieBoy]

You may get a better response if your first post contained your ride report and didn't lnstantly direct people to another (spit) site.
Oh and I thought there was a DR650 thread already :o:D

[Crisis management]

What happened Nordie, the RTV go solid in your ear?

I enjoy advriders DR thread but its bloody huge and almost impossible to find anything in it, Nordies thread here is certainly more info packed and accessible by comparison but, that aside, why do we need a bike specific thread? I enjoy the mixture of stuff here and at the end of the day, barring a few technical variations, they are all motors and two wheels.



Hang on......elitism, I knew I was missing something! :second:

[cooneyr]

You may get a better response if your first post contained your ride report and didn't lnstantly direct people to another (spit) site.
Oh and I thought there was a DR650 thread already :o:D

Just cause your DR650 thread has the show at the moment!

I'm here! :D Almost stock standard 1997 (98 reg). Play with a 14 tooth CS sometimes but generally 15tooth. Went into a ditch at 60+kph so now new braided front brake line, CR bend bars, and new kill/starter switch block (everything else fine including the forks).

My bike seems to be a little different from other later NZ bikes with no Micro switch on the carb and larger hole in the exhaust.

Have made up soft pannier bars and currently making a new tail rack pic attached. The rack in pic at Mackley River limiting for space and too far back. Plans for a IMS 18l just before Xmas and complete suspension rebuild to suit my weight (closer to 125kgs with day riding gear) sometime in 2008.

Cheers R

[SDU]

Ok here's mine.
Pic 1 Danseys Pass on the way to the Brass Last year (yes it's been lowered)
Pic 2 At the Waimakariri River

[hondav2]

Just cause your DR650 thread has the show at the moment!

I'm here! :D Almost stock standard 1997 (98 reg). Play with a 14 tooth CS sometimes but generally 15tooth. Went into a ditch at 60+kph so now new braided front brake line, CR bend bars, and new kill/starter switch block (everything else fine including the forks).

My bike seems to be a little different from other later NZ bikes with no Micro switch on the carb and larger hole in the exhaust.

Have made up soft pannier bars and currently making a new tail rack pic attached. The rack in pic at Mackley River limiting for space and too far back. Plans for a IMS 18l just before Xmas and complete suspension rebuild to suit my weight (closer to 125kgs with day riding gear) sometime in 2008.

Cheers R

My luggage on old bike is Happy trails brackets with soft bags ( on 2nd set now ) suzuki tail rack with large alloy plate bolted to it and home made Ventura bracket. I use a Ventura Bathurst bag and another waterproof bag that someone left behind at the BMW MOA rally in USA. Alloy bash plate, 2 extra teeth on rear sprocket. Had a windscreen but its in a creek at 10,000ft above Telluride in Colorado after I arsed up, progressive front springs, was going to fit a progressive rear shock but got sent the wrong one ( bugger ) . Hope to clock up 60,000 miles ( 100,000 kms ) this summer , original clutch and timing chain, never had tappets reset , and goes better than my newer bike with only 11,000 km on it. Repairs, Ignition pickup, and switch on clutch lever which I disconnected, and heaps on tyres , battery as cable chaffed thru and cooked it, disc pads, chains and sprockes, found its best to buy the best chain u can , less sprocket wear, big tank IMS I think , done over 300miles on it but mostly in NZ goes on res. as about 230 miles. Cheers Toddy

[hondav2]

Here is me at Bonnerville Speed Week, I had covers made for the Ventura bag, i could carrry a 24 pack under it.

[Mole_C]

I got mine 2 days ago, had a little off 2day :gob: Dropped it hooning round on the muddy grass. Twisted the bars but with a bit of pushing and pulling there pretty much back to straight. Just need a few minor tweaks to get them perfect again :yes:

[Crisis management]

Congratulations Mole, now that your fully trained feel free to join a few of us on sunday.....look at the Sunday ride thread.

[hondav2]

Here is 2 more pics, White Sands of New Mexico and when she ran out of spark South Vaginia. Having some problems gettin pics on here.

[Transalper]

...Having some problems gettin pics on here.Don't make me come all the way down there and show you how.
You must know how, you already have at least one picture attached earlier. You know you can attach up to 6 pictures in each post.
Are you dial up internet?

Oh yea, i like my DR650 too.... got an IMS Tank, a Givi Topbox, Scott Oiler, Barkbusters, a Bashplate and a bit of a windscreen on it.

[hondav2]

Don't make me come all the way down there and show you how.
You must know how, you already have at least one picture attached earlier. You know you can attach up to 6 pictures in each post.
Are you dial up internet?

Oh yea, i like my DR650 too.... got an IMS Tank, a Givi Topbox, Scott Oiler, Barkbusters, a Bashplate and a bit of a windscreen on it.

Dial up , no broadband or woosh, satelitte only other option , but i got a good back yard to go ridin in , show us your windscreen, got to much buffeting with mine wouldnt get another

[Transalper]

My screen is just a simple bit of plastic (not perspex but similar). I reenforced the yellow plastic headlight sourround with a strip of alloy bar bent to stop the panel destorting flat.
I get some buffeting with mine too, a common issue on a lot of bikes. I do however prefer that to the original full body wind blast.
When i sit in a sports bike position similar to when i had the CBR1000 I can get my chin very close to the screen then everything goes quiet and calm.
Been looking at screens appearing on other bikes about the place and forming a plan.
I think the trick might be to add an adjustable spoiler to the top just in front of the screen. With this you can tune the screen to your head height and other variables.

[marks]

I get some buffeting with mine too, a common issue on a lot of bikes. I do however prefer that to the original full body wind blast.

Is it just lack of screen height that causes buffeting? - I presume by buffeting you guys mean getting your head blasted by redirected wind?

I just put a screen on my 660 and will now have to try ear plugs because of the increased wind noise. also seems more sensitive to side winds - is that normal?

cheers

Mark

[Transalper]

A bigger or taller screen might help get your head out of the turbulence but... on these sorts of bikes especially, you'd often end up with a big sail effect really messing up the handling, especially in any cross winds or when trucks pass the other way.
I believe most helmets are much quieter in clean air as on an unfaired bike. My old CBR was quieter with the small stock screen on than it was with the slightly larger after market one i tryed later. The taller one once again got my shoulders out of the blast but gave more turbulence about the head. An even larger screen just wouldn't have worked for me or the bike, if i'd wanted that i'd have been on a Goldwing.

I think the idea of an adjustable spoiler on top of the screen is that you can tip it to change the wind blast angle coming off the top of the windscreen hopefully getting you helmet close to being back in clean/less turbulent air.
Another thing i've been told is to mount the screen with some kinda spacer to let some air get behind it to help stop buffet directly behind the screen. I do think this helps too.
I wish i was an expert, then i'd know just how to fix it.

Cooneyr sat on J's DR with the screen on it a while ago, he sits taller and further back on the bike than me, while i found the screen better than naked, cooneyr hated it. Different screens for different riders on the same bike. Nordie has something on his DR, next time i ride with him i might try get some open road experience on his DR to see how his screen works for me.

[Crisis management]

I just tried a mocked up screen today, a piece of foamboard taped in place and this type of arrangement lets you add or remove material easily and alter shape at will. It looks like crap but it's there to experiment with, I've spent half a day or so with it and have a screen design that will work for me.
My primary aim was to get the wind off my chest and make it comfortable at 100km speeds, so it looks very similar to TA's screen.
If you really want to find out what the air is doing around the screen, tape 100mm long strands of wool all over the screen (and behind it) and see how they fly at speed. The wool strands will point the wind direction affecting them so it will be clear where laminar (smooth) air is and where turbulence occurs.
God knows how far all that would go, I'm happy just to be able to travel comfortably at open road speeds!

[cooneyr]

The problem I had is that I'm too tall I think. I ended up with my head right in the stream of turbulent air coming off the top of the screen on J's DR. When I rode Plugs F650 Dakar (with factory screen) through the Rainbow I found the same thing. When I stood up the noise decreased and I went back to the "normal" constant hiss. If I ducked down lower I found the noise also diminished but it was still "boomy". Would seem to me that you need to either get the screen tall enough have the turbulent wind of the top of the screen above your head - this doesnt mean the screen has to be above your head - or low enough that your head is in clear air.or low enough that your head is in clear air.

I've just resurrected the spitfire screen that came with my bike - the mounting system was naffed. No idea if it is any good or not but going to give it ago. From what I've read TA is right, if there is some airflow under the screen the pressure difference between the sides and behind the screen is less. The spitfire screen doesnt sit right down on the headlight surround so fingers crossed.

Cheers R

[NordieBoy]

My screen is slowly getting lower.
Next step is another 2cm off the top.
It's already 3cm lower than when I got it.

[NordieBoy]

Nordie has something on his DR, next time i ride with him i might try get some open road experience on his DR to see how his screen works for me.

It's some sort of Givi screen.
The turbulance will probably hit you in the middle of the visor :D
Completely below my helmet though.

You're welcome to go for a blat though :)

[warewolf]

Would seem to me that you need to either get the screen tall enough have the turbulent wind of the top of the screen above your head - this doesnt mean the screen has to be above your head - or low enough that your head is in clear air.or low enough that your head is in clear air.Triumph Trophy owners complain about the same thing, and have come to the same conclusion. Many are cutting them down to the point of almost completely removing the fairing screen; this is also being done on other bikes eg Triumph Tiger. Personally, I've removed the rubber trim from the top of the screen, simply leaving a smooth exposed edge. Looks a little less finished but is instantly quieter.

There are also things like Stealth Edging (http://www.saeng.com/edging.htm) which try to eliminate the problem with a carefully crafted edge trim. That mob also make other bits n pieces to deal with the problem in other ways, eg winglets, which may work well on off-roaders.

[NordieBoy]

I'm thinking adjustable winglet myself.
Something like this...
A combination of Transalpers screen with a small moveable winglet.

Problem is making it not look ugly.

[Mole_C]

Right, how do i wheelie this beast?

[NordieBoy]

Shafties can't wheelie :rolleyes:

[Crisis management]

Shafties can't wheelie :rolleyes:

I was waiting for that, 10 minutes, not a bad response time! :innocent:

[Mole_C]

Noooooooooo, tell me its not true :crybaby:

[Transalper]

Noooooooooo, tell me its not true :crybaby:

ok..... it's not true

happy now?

[cooneyr]

I'm thinking adjustable winglet myself.
Something like this...
A combination of Transalpers screen with a small moveable winglet.

Problem is making it not look ugly.

Been thinking about this idea and it is one that I think may be worth trying. By having a "winglet" on the top you can keep the screen higher i.e. less load on the shoulder but get the turbulent wind off the top of the screen directed down or at least horizontally of the top.

One thing to consider is how far forward of the screen the winglet extends. I would suggest that it needs to extend forward far enough to ensure that it is in horizonal clean air flow otherwise you will still get air pushed up over the top by the screen. If the screen is more vertical the less the winglet will have to extend forward to the screen. Also good luck figuring out what angle to have the winglet at. Slightly sloped down to the rear would be my starting point.

Damn - just have no screen so your helmet is in clear air and develop strong arm and neck muscles. Dont have to worry about smacking yourself on a screen when off road that way. :D I'm hoping my neck muscles have recovered enough to do this!

Cheers R

[warewolf]

Dont have to worry about smacking yourself on a screen when off road that way. :D I'm hoping my neck muscles have recovered enough to do this!You're hoping your neck muscles have recovered enough to smack yourself on a screen?? :laugh:

[Transalper]

Been thinking about this...
One thing to consider is how far forward of the screen the winglet extends. ...
I'm hoping my neck muscles have recovered enough to do this!

Cheers RI'll take pictures next time i'm around the bikes i've seen the winglets on.
With your neck i wonder if some short sealed road runs, 20minutes for a start, out for the loop behind the airport and home again would be in order before the waimak to Oxford ride. Or you already doing that?

[cooneyr]

You're hoping your neck muscles have recovered enough to smack yourself on a screen?? :laugh:

Hardy har har. Your a funny bugger aint ya. Alright my grammar is a little wanting. In saying that I did smack my nose on the screen when putting the bike back in the shed with leg power -opps :whistle:


I'll take pictures next time i'm around the bikes i've seen the winglets on.
With your neck i wonder if some short sealed road runs, 20minutes for a start, out for the loop behind the airport and home again would be in order before the waimak to Oxford ride. Or you already doing that?

Was thinking of a couple of going for a ride on Saturday the 30th. Going to do it both with and without the screen (in that order) to test the screen and my neck. I'm "not allowed" by order of Dr Wifey (and Burwood Dr) to go riding before 30th but I recon id be fine - not that I have any evidence to prove this or anything (dont show wifey this thread!) :whistle: I'm pretty confident all will be well for short rides - a high speed run to Hanmer is another thing through. Its only muscular (not much risk of broken bone unless i hit the ground again) so should be ok but maybe sore at the end of it.

Cheers R

[NordieBoy]

Been thinking about this idea and it is one that I think may be worth trying. By having a "winglet" on the top you can keep the screen higher i.e. less load on the shoulder but get the turbulent wind off the top of the screen directed down or at least horizontally of the top.
Thassa one(ish).


One thing to consider is how far forward of the screen the winglet extends. I would suggest that it needs to extend forward far enough to ensure that it is in horizonal clean air flow otherwise you will still get air pushed up over the top by the screen. If the screen is more vertical the less the winglet will have to extend forward to the screen. Also good luck figuring out what angle to have the winglet at. Slightly sloped down to the rear would be my starting point.
I'm thinking lower/shorter mostly vertical screen like say... the one on my bike :) that puts the turbulance at your shoulders.
The winglet would be at an angle of 20 degrees or so to clean up the turbulant air and direct it below the helmet level. Would only have to be 50mm or so deep and probably 30mm above the screen with 20mm forward and 30mm behind.
I've tested this design to 180kph in an imaginary wind tunnel.


Damn - just have no screen so your helmet is in clear air and develop strong arm and neck muscles. Dont have to worry about smacking yourself on a screen when off road that way. :D I'm hoping my neck muscles have recovered enough to do this!
No screen and you cop it in the chest.
Affects your shoulders, neck and back more than your arms (7 of the last 10 years have been screenless and riding sitting upright every day).
Just ask my chiropractor what it does over time :(
It is good for building up your grip though. :D

[Mole_C]

Rightio, im gonna start making some mods on my DR650, gonna start with airbox then exhaust then spockets then carbs and finally comfort :yes:

So gotta start with removing the snorkel and drilling some more holes in the airbox. Was thinking 4 holes in the top about 2-3cm diam with a slightly raised lip and filter over them to keep out the rain and dust. Sound good?

Also what fiilters are good and cheap? The only ones i know about are K&N so any more ideas would be good.

Cheers

[Crisis management]

You need to do the carb, exhaust and airbox together as they have a combined effect on jetting and peformance. Look at Kien tech engineering website for details of the airbox mod and drilling the carb slide, dynojet kits are available in NZ at AMPS in auckland ($103) and exhaust? depends on your budget!
Depending on what you want to use it for, there may be other more important things to look at:
If your riding on gravel or any off road, get a bash plate first! The cases are very fragile and it is not uncommon to stick a rock thru them, also they damage easily on both sides of the cases.
Gearing: I'd look at a 14 tooth front sprocket only if you need to change anything. I run almost stock gearing and don't find it a problem but there are probably a dozen different opinions on that!
Switching: Isolate the clutch and stand switches so they cant get broken and prevent you starting the bike.
Chain lub: Fit a Scott oiler to the chain, saves a lot of maintenance.
Filters. I run stock, it's a washable foam, whats to change? K&N don't seem to be well regarded due to their lack of filtration.

Have a read thru Nordie boys thread here, most things you could want to know about have answers in it.

[Mole_C]

Read it, thats where i got most of the ideas but need a few more specifics on how to do it. Bookmarked that Kientech site so know how to do the airbox and drill carbs now :) Found more info on Thumpertalk and advrider. One ineresting bit was this


I've read all the posts about the Dynojet & K&N carb kits, but have also had great luck using conventional methods. I just installed a 160 main jet, shimmed the needle with a .040 thick washer, drilled the second hole in the slide, and turned the fuel screw out 2.5 turns. Also removed the airbox cover. The bike runs awsome. No flat spots, starts in a micro second, and totally rips. All for the price of a jet. I'll check the plug color after a longer ride. Oh yah, the bike is much louder now, but a nice kind of loud. Anyone else tried this mod? If so please reply.

See any reason why this would be bad? Id rather spend a few bucks than 100 if its gonna be pretty much the same as a dynojet kit. And where can i buy just a 160 main?

[Crisis management]

Doing that is fine, no different to the Dynojet way.....
Dynojet kit includes a new needle (different shape?) and four different jet sizes allowing for different set ups. Be aware the jet sizes are not neccesarily consistant, OEM jet sizing is different to Dynojet sizing so you may have to try a few jets. Price a jet from Suzuki and see how affordable it is.
Don't take the side cover off the airbox unless you are sure you won't get water into it, do the top of airbox mod preferably.
Let us know how it goes, I'm about to do the same with the dynojet version so we can compare notes.

[NordieBoy]

Read it, thats where i got most of the ideas but need a few more specifics on how to do it. Bookmarked that Kientech site so know how to do the airbox and drill carbs now :) Found more info on Thumpertalk and advrider. One ineresting bit was this

See any reason why this would be bad? Id rather spend a few bucks than 100 if its gonna be pretty much the same as a dynojet kit. And where can i buy just a 160 main?

Opening the airbox side is very noisy, opening the top isn't.
A 160 DJ main is the same as a 150 Mikuni main.
A 160 Mikuni would have a hole the size of your fist and flow a bit too much.

The KTM needle is good but works better on a stock airbox.
Best jetting for stockish is an open airbox top and the stock needle shimmed 2mm or so.
You only need a bigger jet if you are going to an aftermarket pipe.
Grind the header weld as well (no jetting change needed).
Oh and some CR9EK plugs for that extra "blingness".

THIS (http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=467615) is the Thumpertalk thread you need to read for jetting :D

[timg]

I'm thinking adjustable winglet myself.
Something like this...
A combination of Transalpers screen with a small moveable winglet.

Problem is making it not look ugly.

Hi Nordie, I think you are on the right track. Check out this link https://www.twistedthrottle.com/trade/productview/2710/344/

I got a MRA Vario screen for my Transalp :scooter: The screen is basically the same as the factory screen but with the spoiler mounted on it. At the time they did not do the spoiler and mounts seperately (I asked) but now they are available as a seperate unit.

It seems to work very well. I don't have a problem with buffeting when riding alone, but 2 up creates a nasty head wobble if the pillion looks around or moves their helmet. The vario screen/spoiler seems to solve that. I made a number of 'trial' screens out of coroflite (real estate signs) trying to find what would work. The standard screen with s spoiler was the best for my situation/needs.

Happy to send you the measurements and photos of the spoiler thingy if you'd like to try making a copy.

Cheers,
Tim

[NordieBoy]

Looks like they split the wind off and try and throw it over your head without the associated turbulance of a 1 piece screen.
I want a short screen and no turbulance at head level.

[Mole_C]

Opening the airbox side is very noisy, opening the top isn't.
A 160 DJ main is the same as a 150 Mikuni main.
A 160 Mikuni would have a hole the size of your fist and flow a bit too much.

The KTM needle is good but works better on a stock airbox.
Best jetting for stockish is an open airbox top and the stock needle shimmed 2mm or so.
You only need a bigger jet if you are going to an aftermarket pipe.
Grind the header weld as well (no jetting change needed).
Oh and some CR9EK plugs for that extra "blingness".

THIS (http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=467615) is the Thumpertalk thread you need to read for jetting :D

Yea was gonna do the air box lid and take the snorkel out. You think it'll be much better with a K&N filter?

Gonna grind down exhaust as soon as i figure out how to get it out. All one big windy piece.

So all i need to do on the carbs for that is drill 2nd hole and get a 2mm spacer for needle? Jets wont do anything? Also how much did you have to adjust the screws? Will be my first time playing with carbs so need as much info as i can get b4 i destroy them :dodge:

Gonna do these all the move down my list and add a few things from CM's list :yes:

[cooneyr]

...Gonna grind down exhaust as soon as i figure out how to get it out. All one big windy piece.

Dont know much about carbs but helped Nordie remove the header pipe. There is a slip joint in the pipe near the frame directly above the RHS foot peg. Loosen the slip joint (1 bolt) and then undo the two bolds holding the header to the head then wiggle to remove.

Cheers
R

[limbimtimwim]

So all i need to do on the carbs for that is drill 2nd hole and get a 2mm spacer for needle? Jets wont do anything? Also how much did you have to adjust the screws? Will be my first time playing with carbs so need as much info as i can get b4 i destroy them :dodge: The factory pro kit reckons it doesn't need drilling: http://factorypro.com/Prod_Pages/prods65.html .

[NordieBoy]

Seat of the pants says drill it :D
You can feel the extra snap off the bottom end.
For best value for money, do the mods individually a couple of days apart.
Then you'll get to see/feel the difference each makes.

After my first dyno session we ended up with just the needle shimmed after trying different jets.

The order I'd do them if doing it again for the stock pipe would be...
Remove the snorkle/Shim the needle - need to be done together.
Drill carb slide.
Shorten carb spring 3.5 turns (102mm overall length).
Grind header weld out flush - no ridges.
Dynojet kit - needle 4th from top, 150 mainjet (I think a fractionally bigger main would be better but the 155 DJ is too big - maybe a Mikuni 142 would be ideal).

The DynoJet needle makes a big difference. If you can get one on it's own then the stock Mikuni jet is virtually the same as the DJ 150.

Wind the screw in 'till it runs crap and then back it out to just (1/4 turn) past max revs.
That will leave it fractionally rich at idle but not enough to bog and should reduce popping on decel.

I'm still using the stock filter but will probably go with an aftermarket foam one instead of a K&N.

The thing is that with the NZ$ the way it is then now is the best time to do the springs :D
$80us for the fronts and $130us for the rear + postage from KienTech.
$300+ postage NZ total.

I'd better get off to work now...

[cooneyr]

The factory pro kit reckons it doesn't need drilling: http://factorypro.com/Prod_Pages/prods65.html .

From what I've read you don't need to drill with any kit. All it does is improve the throttle response given it is a CV carb i.e. trying to get closer to the response of a pumper carb. It allows the slide to open faster thereby more fuel faster. Drilling wont affect peak power though.

Cheers R

[Mole_C]

Yay, airbox is cut, header is ground. Now where is that fuel air mixture screw?

Oh took it for a quick ride down the road. Very lean i think, was pulsing. Better get myself a DJ kit when i get back.
Also smoked for a bit but i think that was just burning off the water and crc. Seemd to stop pretty quickly

[GaZBur]

Hi Guys - been reading some good tips here in this thread. Thanks to you for the free tips and advise!!! Will try sort out what I am going to do - and what I wont do and let you know if you are interested.
Will try attach some pics of my DR650 at Silverstream Cart track, Otago. Its a K5 -stock standard so far, currently #71 in pics but will be renumbered to 78 now I have full license and official number.

[Crisis management]

Thought I would chuck in a pile of useless??? info gathered after my recent trip to Whangamamona (1100km in the weekend).
Screen: fitted a Givi screen that I cut down from one to suit a round headlight bike. Top of screen is 350mm above top of stock headlight surround/screen thing and in the same line as that "screen". I'm 175cm tall (5'8") and it worked well for me. No load on the chest and only marginal wind noise / buffeting to the head. Tested to 140km's and pretty much the same no matter what the speed.
Worth noting that before I cut it down to this size there was a serious front end wobble at speed, the bikes obviously susceptible to instability with large screens.
Tyres: I fitted a pair of TKC80's and a huge improvement over the "mildly" road legal bridgestone knobs off road, not such a great difference on the road.
Off road better front end traction and very controlable slides from either end. On road, great on the wet or dry with plenty of warning of lose of traction and again controlable sliding. Definately steps out big time on slick tar patches and I am a bit disapointed at the lean angles, before I run completely out of tread on the rear it is stepping out and starting to winge about it..
Gearing: I'm running 15 tooth front and 46 tooth rear and thats a bit high generally. 14 tooth front coming up!
Engine: Stock apart from cycleworks exhaust, header grind and it feels lean, it dosesn't pull hard enough in top. Dynojet kit and airbox mods next week!
Seat: Oh joy of joys.......... tried out a Corbin seat on Ducati Jim's bike and what a difference, however at $600 it's back to the HTFU pills (maybe a sheepskin).
Fuel consumption: about 19 km/l consistantly but that tank is too small. I carried a 5l spare and didn't need it, but was always looking for gas stops. Worth noting that a F650 Dakar gets 35km/l....bastard! Fuel injection makes a huge difference!

Overall, did everything I wanted and didn't break down (unlike a few of them German things) :sunny:

[marks]

Fuel consumption: about 19 km/l consistantly but that tank is too small. I carried a 5l spare and didn't need it, but was always looking for gas stops. Worth noting that a F650 Dakar gets 35km/l....bastard! Fuel injection makes a huge difference!

Actually I only get about 22km/l from my injected 660 yam so what are the Dakars doing different? They do understand that the thing on the right handlebar is for twisting hard don't they?

[Mole_C]

Geez my fuel air mixture screw is harder to turn than the top cover screws on the carb. Bent 2 crappy screwdrivers trying to screw it out. Anyone else have probs with this or any other way to get the bitch out? Im assuming that the plug has already been removed as there is the flat head notch there or would that be wrong?

Im assuming im turning the right one. On the front, underneath, stupid screw with a really shallow flat head?

Put in 2mm washer but still ran like crap, tried 3mm and better but starts jumping once the revs get up a bit. Should i keep adding more or get the dynojet kit and put in bigger main jet or will adjusting the fuel air mix and idle help fix it?

[NordieBoy]

Geez my fuel air mixture screw is harder to turn than the top cover screws on the carb. Bent 2 crappy screwdrivers trying to screw it out. Anyone else have probs with this or any other way to get the bitch out? Im assuming that the plug has already been removed as there is the flat head notch there or would that be wrong?
Should be easy to turn.


Put in 2mm washer but still ran like crap, tried 3mm and better but starts jumping once the revs get up a bit. Should i keep adding more or get the dynojet kit and put in bigger main jet or will adjusting the fuel air mix and idle help fix it?

What mods have you done to the bike?

[Mole_C]

Should be easy to turn.



What mods have you done to the bike?

Bahh well its not. Just done the airbox mod and header weld

[Crisis management]

Should be easy to turn.

Wot he said, get a decent screw driver, make sure it is seated correctly and turn.....failing that get a gas axe and cut the bastard out.




I may not be responsible for the consequences but am really interested in the photos!

[NordieBoy]

Bahh well its not. Just done the airbox mod and header weld

Shimming the needle should be enough then...

Hmmm....
Does your exhaust have a bolt under it at the back?

[Mole_C]

Shimming the needle should be enough then...

Hmmm....
Does your exhaust have a bolt under it at the back?

Nope, got a little hole thou.

[tri boy]

Bahh well its not. Just done the airbox mod and header weld

Quite a common fault really.
Fine thread screws in aluminum often seize up.
Try not to destroy the tool groove. Use a fine oxy tip, (#6) on low heat to warm the ally up. Dribble some light machine oil/crc into the area, and allow to penetrate. The screw should slowly unseize after a couple of times.

THIS IS ALL DONE WITH THE CARB OFF, AND DRAINED.

[Mole_C]

Quite a common fault really.
Fine thread screws in aluminum often seize up.
Try not to destroy the tool groove. Use a fine oxy tip, (#6) on low heat to warm the ally up. Dribble some light machine oil/crc into the area, and allow to penetrate. The screw should slowly unseize after a couple of times.

THIS IS ALL DONE WITH THE CARB OFF, AND DRAINED.

Cheers, i don't have or know what an oxy tip is so will just try with a hair dryer :P Can i just do it with the carb on, its such a bitch to get off

[NordieBoy]

Only if you video it for us :D

[Mole_C]

Only if you video it for us :D

Will a hairdryer really make it hot enough to turn my bike into a fiery beast? Damn :(

[tri boy]

I think the safe course of action here might be: Take the carb off. Take it to someone you trust in a bike shop, and hand over a few dollars.:yes:
If you,re mechanical skills are limited, (ie, not a mechanic), you could damage the casting, or snap the screw head off by using too much force.
Pay a little, to save alot.:yes:

[DR650SE]

bike now for sale

[tri boy]

bike now for sale

Two Questions.
Why?, and How much?:shifty:

[NordieBoy]

Will a hairdryer really make it hot enough to turn my bike into a fiery beast? Damn :(

Not really.

I'd take it in to a bike shop and get them to loosen it up.
Minimal cost and you know it's the right one they've done.
They'll probably loosen and rotate the carb so they can see into the idle needle hole and go from there.
A couple of minutes should do it.

From then on it should be sweet.

[moko]

Finally got my 95 model DR sorted(the pre SE model),had a new wiring loom and all the other bits the pillock I bought it from on Ebay stuffed up sorted out.I got a used Lazer Produro can for it,great piece of kit,slid on,fitted perfectly and runs really well with no re-jetting,it's done a 100 mile (200-ish kms) run no hassle at all,no over-heating,no starting problems,no nasty back-firing,nada.Made me laugh when a workmate told me about his buddy fitting a new set of pipes to his XTX660,then having to pay extra to get it dynoed.so far the guy's paid nearly £400(over $1000) and it runs like a pig at low-revs and is only really happy when it's having the nuts revved off it,my old DR,£70 worth of pipe,5 minutes to fit and she runs like a dream,so much for progress.

[marks]

Made me laugh when a workmate told me about his buddy fitting a new set of pipes to his XTX660,then having to pay extra to get it dynoed.so far the guy's paid nearly £400(over $1000) and it runs like a pig at low-revs and is only really happy when it's having the nuts revved off it.

Actually 60 minutes with a soldering iron and a couple of resistors is all thats needed to sort the low revs running on a 660 - don't need to dyno it. You shouldn't blame the bike if your mates buddy got bad advice. With those simple mods done I imagine it would put out significantly more power/torque than a dr 650

[Mole_C]

Yay, took carb into spectrum today and the got it out for me for free :2thumbsup so go see them for all your needs :yes:

Seems to run a lot better now, got screw about 1.5-2 turns out with 2mm washers and didnt seem to pulse going up and down my street. Didn't like putting around the u turn so might have to turn idle up or just not be lazy. Turning the idle screw seems to do didly squat anyway thou.

Still doesn't pull power wheelies :crybaby: Any advice on making it?

[Mole_C]

Yay, put 3mm washers under it and seems to run good everywhere except 2nd gear and down low in 1st. Gets about 1cm off the ground on power in first and up more with a little clutch :yes: Still a bit to go i think. Might get a dynajet kit. I like tinkering away. Especially when i have no real idea wht im doing :mellow:

[Transalper]

.. Gets about 1cm off the ground on power in first and up more with a little clutch :yes: Still a bit to go i think. ...
What sprockets you got on?

[NordieBoy]

Yeah, make sure there's a 14t on the front.

[Mole_C]

Still got what i bought it with so i would assume it's still just the stock. 14t is on my list of things to do. Just thought i'd do all the free and easy things first :yes:

[Transalper]

The impression i got from the yahoo DR group is that they don't lift the front wheel easily with stock gearing, but when you stick the 14tooth front on it makes a world of difference. Don't know, only wheel i like lofting off the ground is on my CRF.
As for free and easy, it's got to be one of the easy things and cost is small for a front sprocket.

[Mole_C]

Well then. I should have a 14t sprocket 2mrw morning. Cost $35

[dino3310]

howzit, i had a 1981 DR500 in my teens farkin regrt selling it that was 20 years ago,finally bought a 1999 DR650se last month absolutly love it, but it's de-reg'd am looking at putting it back on the road,have got the lights etc all hooked up and going (just gotta get some road legal knobblies) the problem is the lights (tail and blinkers) and muffler are after market it's all good for a WOF
but wont pass the re-vinn (strict bastards), i was hoping to find someone local to Hamilton,who would be able to lend me some parts for a week to get my ride though the re-vin, budget wont allow me to buy any stuff at the moment. If some one 's got some cheapish parts for sale i might be able to
scratch some cash together.
I've been waiting a long time to get back on a DR so i'm hanging out big time to get it back on the road, would be good to get any tips and stuff on the DR,
cheers Deano

[Mole_C]

Well 14t is going on now. Had to grind down the sprocket clamp thing so it doesn't rub on chain but o-ring is also to big. Should i cut it down to or is it ok to just leave it off. Would have to be pretty thin to actually fit without hitting chain

[cooneyr]

Well 14t is going on now. Had to grind down the sprocket clamp thing so it doesn't rub on chain but o-ring is also to big. Should i cut it down to or is it ok to just leave it off. Would have to be pretty thin to actually fit without hitting chain

I've got a different plate for fitting with the 14 tooth (factory one I think - came with the bike). It doesnt have the o-ring (not really sure of its purpose anyway) and is a flat plate i.e. not dished to hold an o-ring like the 15 tooth.

Just use your ground one without the o-ring.

Cheers R

[Transalper]

My plate has been ground a little smaller to stop the chain riding on it too (forgot to mention that earlier), and i don't see a o-ring/damper so i deduce it has been removed.

[NordieBoy]

Dump the o-ring or even dump the retainer and use a couple of c-clips.

[Mole_C]

Its on now, makes a bit of a funny noise (chain clicking?) which was worse when i tightened the chain so i guess i'll loosen it 2mrw and see if that makes it better. Sprocket has a tiny bit of a wiggle but it did that with the old one 2, when i put it back on to check.

Doesn't seem to make a hell of a lot of difference yet. Getting dynojet kit monday so will hopefully be able to tune it even better.

Thanks for all the help so far guys :yes: You're all so much more useful than the manual :P

[far queue]

OK, I'm running a bit late on this, but anyway ...
Don't worry about the o ring, you don't need it, it's just there to cushion the chain to reduce some noise so the bike can pass the noise test in Oz :whocares: same goes for the snorkel on the airbox.

Stock gearing is 15/41, I changed to 14/41 which was better, but as you say not that much better, so I changed to 13/44, that's much better off road but it knocks your top speed back a bit.

[Mole_C]

I took it out for a bit of practise today. Got feet scraping around a few corners then headed to a carpark to scare myself doing tiny little wheelies 20-30cm mayb. It does make a bit of difference :woohoo: Easy power wheelies in 1st and bounces up alright in 2nd. Now just need to keep practising and get the technique and nads in line to get them higher and longer

[Mole_C]

Dynojet kit in now. 155 main jet and 4th slot on needle as box recomended. Also took out backfire screen. Mixture about 1 1/4 turns out. Runs much nicer now. Is quick and smooth all the way, front comes up easier in 1st (still not doing it off power in 2nd) and got to 100 where i usually only get to 80 on my test run. Hardly any popping on decel either :yes:

Also got some new plugs. CR9EK. Slightly hotter i think with dual spark. Found it on thumpertalk. That should hopefully make it even quicker and smoother. Just cleaned off current plugs and gonna run them a while and see if im to rich before i ruin my new ones :yes:

[NordieBoy]

Also got some new plugs. CR9EK. Slightly hotter i think with dual spark. Found it on thumpertalk. That should hopefully make it even quicker and smoother. Just cleaned off current plugs and gonna run them a while and see if im to rich before i ruin my new ones :yes:

Same temp as stock I thought?
Running them in mine and didn't notice any differencce really but I'm not pulling them out just in case :D
If it was summer I'd have got the CR10EK but the 9 should be sweet as we don't get extremes of temp here.

[Mole_C]

Thought stock was 10? Oh well, even better news for me then :yes:

[NordieBoy]

The 10 is the coldest NGK plug.

[Mole_C]

Not much but its a start

[NordieBoy]

Cool.
You can only just see the wires holding it up :D

[Crisis management]

Cool.
You can only just see the wires holding it up :D

If it was mine you'd be able to see the scissor jack holding it up.......

Spark plugs: according to manual (of slightly dubious parentage) stock plugs are CR10E and hot type is CR9E.

Manualles never lie :innocent:

I wouldn't see the need for a hotter plug unless a lot of low speed running / low load or friggin freezing weather was anticipated, am I missing something?


APART from my toupee.

[NordieBoy]

Hmmm, my manual used to say the CR9E was standard but it agrees with your manual now...

The CR10E is the coldest NGK plug so the 9E or 9EK isn't much hotter.
Hmmm, I may try the CR10EK's soon to compare with the CR9EK's.
See if there's a perceptable difference.

[dino3310]

nice one mole-will be looking back on this thread when i do my ride up.

[nerdneh]

A real pleasure to read all the advice on this site. I have D/Jet needle & 150 jet ,needle on 2nd groove from top [ 4th far to rich @ +120kmh ], top cut out of air box, stock exhaust, 520 chain & sprockets, 15/44, this bike acheived 155km/hr over 800m on a sealed airstrip ,using GPS readout straight after the 1000 km service totally stock standard. Cheap fun !. I have not had the chance to have a run since mods. Bike is just so smooth to ride now especially at low & road legal speeds,will even run smooth @ 50kmh in 5th gear ! Many thanks GAZBUR for your encouragement @ Wymdam street races, I was the other DR rider @ Teretonga. Many thanks to FRAN for advice re bike & computer direction to this great forum.