NC30 doing annoying things

[Chrislost]

my battery(NC30) is brand new and after 3 weeks has not enough left in it to start the bike.

got it jump started and put a multimeter across the battery, at idle there was 12.2 volts and when i turned the lghts on it dropped for about a second to 10 then came back to 12.
when given somt revs (4000, 10000, 12000) the voltage stayed around about 12 exept for momenterally going up to at about 13@8000rpm.

would you say that is a altinator problem or regulator problem?

[bimotabob]

Hi

Rectifier faults are common and come standard with these NC30's - you can be almost 100% sure that your rectifier is crook already.
The stator can cook too if left for too long - then what happens is your Battery and igniter can cook causing lack of spark.

You may be lucky, get a another rectifier or easily wire in another better type
as many work the same. CBR's are a source.
3 stator leads, earth and battery output (14-14.5v) are the 5 wires some also have an ignition input.

Good luck

Cheers
BB

[Chrislost]

checked the output from the altinator, 30V? wht is it supposta be?

[Warr]

Do a search on Rectifier/Regulators there is a wealth of info on here.
Sounds like you have a stuffed one. When you buy a new one put a 12v fan running permanently ontop of it. This will ensure in warm weather it dont fry again.
It could be with that high voltage that it is just a wiring fault. Check each connection and if necessary cut out the connectors and solder the wiring permanently.

[sAsLEX]

14.5 to maybe 18? cant remember but not 30

[sAsLEX]

Do a search on Rectifier/Regulators there is a wealth of info on here.
Sounds like you have a stuffed one. When you buy a new one put a 12v fan running permanently ontop of it. This will ensure in warm weather it dont fry again.
It could be with that high voltage that it is just a wiring fault. Check each connection and if necessary cut out the connectors and solder the wiring permanently.

If its 30 out of the alternator that would be the problem..... it would also fry most reg/recs. Are you sure you are measuring in the right place?

linky to diagram http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=15308&d=1125915428

[Warr]

If its 30 out of the alternator that would be the problem..... it would also fry most reg/recs. Are you sure you are measuring in the right place?

linky to diagram http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=15308&d=1125915428
Could be 30 if there is no load and he is measuring the AC directly on the windings at the 3 phase point :)

[Chrislost]

Could be 30 if there is no load and he is measuring the AC directly on the windings at the 3 phase point :)

indeed i was! what would it be supposta be? some people have said that it should be as high as 60!!!????
was 13.2 on the other side, untill the lights came on, then it dropped down and kept dropping, bike died at 9

[vifferman]

Stator
It should be around 65V AC from any one of the stator wires @ ~5k rpm.
There should be some resistance (can't remember the figure) between any of the stator coils when the engine's not running. Put the meter on ohms, and measure between any two of the yellow wires from the stator. Also, there's supposed to be no continuity between any wire and ground (frame or engine case).
Battery
The voltage at the battery (if the R/R is OK) should be around 12.5 -13V at idle, increasing to a maximum of about 14.5 at 5k rpm.

There's a whole lot of other tests you can do, but the symptoms you've described sound like an R/R fault.

If you need a full diagnostic, go here: https://www.electrosport.com/Images/fault_finding.pdf