View Full Version : Spark plugs keep going black
knight rider
20th June 2007, 17:29
after a long ride I get home turn the bike off then put helmet etc inside then go back outside turn the bike on & ride it into the shed. The next morning I get up try to start the bike but it's hard to start & when it does start it keeps stalling. once going has absolutely no power at all very slow acclelaration & bad sound aswell. This seems to be a comon problem with the bike. Any ideas?
paturoa
20th June 2007, 17:31
Sounds like too rich.
Has it always done this? If not has someone been playing with it?
imdying
20th June 2007, 17:35
Try turning your fuel tap off when you stop it, see if that fixes it.
knight rider
20th June 2007, 17:46
Sounds like too rich.
Has it always done this? If not has someone been playing with it?
yeah always does this
knight rider
20th June 2007, 17:47
Try turning your fuel tap off when you stop it, see if that fixes it.
will try that. currently in bike shop but will try it when i et it back. Could it have someting to do with the ht leads?
imdying
20th June 2007, 17:58
No idea sorry mate, just wonder if there's a leak in a float needle? Might be worth trying one of the gixxer sites, they might have seen it before... might be a common fault for the model?
knight rider
20th June 2007, 18:47
oil changes & spark plug changes are about as good as I am with the mechanics of the bike. ohh I can also adjust the chain -clap clap for me
Robert Taylor
20th June 2007, 18:48
after a long ride I get home turn the bike off then put helmet etc inside then go back outside turn the bike on & ride it into the shed. The next morning I get up try to start the bike but it's hard to start & when it does start it keeps stalling. once going has absolutely no power at all very slow acclelaration & bad sound aswell. This seems to be a comon problem with the bike. Any ideas?
If it has done high k's 40k or more it will likely have worn emulsion tubes and needles.
knight rider
20th June 2007, 18:51
If it has done high k's 40k or more it will likely have worn emulsion tubes and needles. what are those?
knight rider
20th June 2007, 18:52
it'll be around 50,000km mark
knight rider
20th June 2007, 19:03
If it has done high k's 40k or more it will likely have worn emulsion tubes and needles.
are these epensive to replace?
nadroj
20th June 2007, 19:16
The bits down the middle of each carb the needles run in. Both will be worn & I think you will find that mileage conservative. Replace with factory parts as Dynojet kits wear fast.
PS Robert: this is Scotts old bike you spent time on tuning many years ago.
knight rider
20th June 2007, 19:29
The bits down the middle of each carb the needles run in. Both will be worn & I think you will find that mileage conservative. Replace with factory parts as Dynojet kits wear fast.
PS Robert: this is Scotts old bike you spent time on tuning many years ago.
has a diferent motor init now though wich had only done 38,00kms & i've added maybe 10-12,000kms to that. Chain snapped & went though the old one so replaced it with a 1996 wt motor
knight rider
20th June 2007, 19:34
does anyone else have alot of problems with their bikes? maybe I'm just not meant to have a bike?? :(
Cajun
20th June 2007, 19:56
does anyone else have alot of problems with their bikes? maybe I'm just not meant to have a bike?? :(
I did have a alot of problems with the carbs on my bike, whenever you would wash it, it would be problem starting and what not, and if you leaved it sitting for week or more (with even with fuel turned off) would have problems.
had many people look at it, had it for 18 months before i traded it on the 600.
Only other problem i had with my WT was speedo read 10km/h faster (was in mph) but use to sit at 65mph(105km/h) to speeding tickets later it worked out was 118km/h. But once i knew that i worked around it.
El Dopa
20th June 2007, 20:27
after a long ride I get home turn the bike off then put helmet etc inside then go back outside turn the bike on & ride it into the shed. The next morning I get up try to start the bike but it's hard to start & when it does start it keeps stalling. once going has absolutely no power at all very slow acclelaration & bad sound aswell. This seems to be a comon problem with the bike. Any ideas?
With my very limited knowledge, it sounds to me like your engine is running way too rich.
This is a carb problem, and is caused either by the carbs being wrongly adjusted, or the needles/jets in the carb assembly wearing out.
You mentioned the bike is in the shop already? Get them to pull the carbs off and either:
1) If the carb parts are still good, adjust them so that the bike runs leaner (tell them you think it is running too rich).
2) If the carb needles/jets are knackered, get them replaced.
bimotabob
21st June 2007, 07:37
Hi
Make sure you get the coils and leads checked though, even if its not the main prob GSXR's often have coil problems. Many have dyna coils.
A mate of mine added a dynojet kit to his 93 model with 40mm carbs,
goes way better - wheelies all the time. You would need to ditch the restrictive mufflers to get the full potential like him though and your fuel consumpion would drop from 16-17km/l down to 12-13.
Cheers
BB
knight rider
21st June 2007, 11:43
Hi
Make sure you get the coils and leads checked though, even if its not the main prob GSXR's often have coil problems. Many have dyna coils.
A mate of mine added a dynojet kit to his 93 model with 40mm carbs,
goes way better - wheelies all the time. You would need to ditch the restrictive mufflers to get the full potential like him though and your fuel consumpion would drop from 16-17km/l down to 12-13.
Cheers
BB hmmm wheelies I like the sound of that :yes:
knight rider
21st June 2007, 11:46
With my very limited knowledge, it sounds to me like your engine is running way too rich.
This is a carb problem, and is caused either by the carbs being wrongly adjusted, or the needles/jets in the carb assembly wearing out.
You mentioned the bike is in the shop already? Get them to pull the carbs off and either:
1) If the carb parts are still good, adjust them so that the bike runs leaner (tell them you think it is running too rich).
2) If the carb needles/jets are knackered, get them replaced.
just rang bike shop & he said it sounds like a black box problem or maybe the coils. So sounds like he's on the right track. It's at Richards motorcycles in Johnsonville Wellington. Richards pretty onit but you have to catch him in a good mood as he can seem stressed out & rushed off his feet sometimes. Anyone else deal with Richard?
knight rider
21st June 2007, 16:52
latest news. it's running on 1 1/2 cylinders..... WTF? what causes this to happen?
nadroj
21st June 2007, 17:18
latest news. it's running on 1 1/2 cylinders..... WTF? what causes this to happen?
Dirty plugs!
knight rider
21st June 2007, 17:22
Dirty plugs!
lol true but what causes them to go dirty after only being replaced about 200kms ago?
Robert Taylor
21st June 2007, 18:43
Worn carburetors or as other contributors have reasonably surmised an ignition problem i.e not enough spark to light the fire properly.......get both checked by a qualified experienced motorcycle engineer.
F5 Dave
22nd June 2007, 17:34
Been through all this on the RF900, do a search on this site. I made some replacement parts for when the emulsion tubes wear. Check the factorypro.com. website to see what a tube is & how it wears (oval hole). Hard to see by eye, need good light. If it is visible it is way too worn.
All pretty simple to take apart. Yes GSXRs do have dodgy coils, but I bet emulsion tubes 10:1
& yes this can take an age to sort out if you keep getting sidetracked by high resistance plug caps & other 'this is it' red herrings.
Sensei
22nd June 2007, 17:45
You still got the 40mm carbs of the old motor on the 96 motor ?? if so they will be well worn by now as Robert replaced the original ones for soft Dynojet kit so thats where I'd start , plus replaced 3 coils on that bike when I had it .
knight rider
22nd June 2007, 21:36
You still got the 40mm carbs of the old motor on the 96 motor ?? if so they will be well worn by now as Robert replaced the original ones for soft Dynojet kit so thats where I'd start , plus replaced 3 coils on that bike when I had it .
not sure what carbs are onit. heard the coils can be a bugger too. Got it back though something about the revs being too high he put a spring in the choke as it was sticking sounds alot better & feels so smooth through the whole rev range. Has #7 spark plugs init now too. adjusted the carbs it sounds so much better & feels so much better. Time will tell if it's fixed the problem
knight rider
22nd June 2007, 21:36
You still got the 40mm carbs of the old motor on the 96 motor ?? if so they will be well worn by now as Robert replaced the original ones for soft Dynojet kit so thats where I'd start , plus replaced 3 coils on that bike when I had it .
are dyno jet kits good ones?
Sensei
22nd June 2007, 23:11
Not really they are good for a short time then they start to wear out as they are quite soft ally needles etc . I think I still may have the old original ones here somewhere will look for ya & if so will give you them to put in .
knight rider
23rd June 2007, 08:47
Not really they are good for a short time then they start to wear out as they are quite soft ally needles etc . I think I still may have the old original ones here somewhere will look for ya & if so will give you them to put in .
that would be gret. thank you so much :)
knight rider
23rd June 2007, 20:07
rode it today & when the revs are down low it kinds feels like the power comes on & off. I still haven't got the exhaust gaskets done caould this be causing the problem? when I back off the throttle at high revs it make like a popping sound
Madness
23rd June 2007, 20:09
I still haven't got the exhaust gaskets done caould this be causing the problem? when I back off the throttle at high revs it make like a popping sound
You will get "popping" if your headers aren't sealed properly just as you described. It shouldn't cause the power to come & go though.
knight rider
23rd June 2007, 20:16
You will get "popping" if your headers aren't sealed properly just as you described. It shouldn't cause the power to come & go though.
could it be that the bike was still cold & couldn't get the power on until it's warmer?
breakaway
23rd June 2007, 20:17
Yes, bikes will perform like shit if you try to fang it when cold.
knight rider
23rd June 2007, 20:19
Yes, bikes will perform like shit if you try to fang it when cold.
ahhh I see that must've been it then thought it would've warmed up but it's pretty cold outside so maybe just needs a bit longer to warm up
breakaway
23rd June 2007, 20:44
Make sure you warm it up before you give it a good thrashing, you will damage it if you try it when it's cold.
F5 Dave
25th June 2007, 09:53
Yes it should be warm & yes the ex gaskets should be sealed ideally, but it sounds like you are fouling a plug or so. Dynojet needles are known for wearing the tubes faster as they can be a bit rough. Well, the older ones. This was one of the selling points of Factory over DJ.
knight rider
25th June 2007, 15:26
seems to take ages to warm up. could it have something to do with the exhaust gaskets?
F5 Dave
25th June 2007, 15:28
not cutting in & out
knight rider
25th June 2007, 15:35
nah it's more like a chugging then once the revs gets higher it takes off again weird. maybe a squashed fuel hose somewhere?
F5 Dave
25th June 2007, 15:54
is it the later W/C model? Suzi thermostats are too cold for 90s. Read my thread on RF900s for replacement thermostat & how to modify.
Fuel line will only affect on motorway by running out of gas feeling. The chugging at low revs could easily be a plug fouling that often cleans up a bit at higher revs. On an 11 you may not miss the extra top end power, just will drink more gas.
[edit note it is a water cooled 93]
knight rider
25th June 2007, 16:22
it has the 1996 wt motor init
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