View Full Version : Trailer and bike positioning
96xr400
2nd July 2007, 12:05
hi,
I bought a box trailer, both front and rear panels come off the trailer so the bike can be loaded from either end.
Since the trailer wheels are bigger than the car it's lowest point is tow ball end so I've loaded the bike on that way (ie. load bike passing car, not from the end of trailer). This leaves the bike facing backwards when towed.
I want to make one end of the trailer permanently fixed. I've always seen people load their bike from the rear of the trailer. Is it ok to load bike from tow bar end or is it best to just load from rear of trailer (or does it not matter..)?
thank you
Ocean1
2nd July 2007, 13:08
hi,
I bought a box trailer, both front and rear panels come off the trailer so the bike can be loaded from either end.
Since the trailer wheels are bigger than the car it's lowest point is tow ball end so I've loaded the bike on that way (ie. load bike passing car, not from the end of trailer). This leaves the bike facing backwards when towed.
I want to make one end of the trailer permanently fixed. I've always seen people load their bike from the rear of the trailer. Is it ok to load bike from tow bar end or is it best to just load from rear of trailer (or does it not matter..)?
thank you
Dude it just doesn't matter, whatever is easiest.
Most trailers are higher slightly at the back, even loaded. I used to carry a plank and just ride up the back. With my new trailer the tailgate comes off and I use that for a ramp.
Loading the bike arse backwards is OK too, in fact when I carry two or three I usually have the outside bikes facing backwards so the radiators don't get rocks thrown at them from the back tyres of the car.
Spend a while trying different ways to load up and tie down, you'll soon develop your own way. The only thing I can suggest is to use good tie-downs and make sure you lash the back wheel sideways to stop it sliding on the deck (both wheels if there's no front wheel struts).
B0000M
2nd July 2007, 13:23
i wouldve thought loading form the fron would be difficult due to the car being in the way, another hting you could look into is loweing your trailer, most high tralers have a leaf spring suspension setup, and often you will find the axle is underneath the leaf. by puutting the axle on top of the leaf yu will lower your trailer by the thickness of the axle, this may help things.
96xr400
2nd July 2007, 13:29
awesome, appreciate your comments
is it best to definitely have a fixed end (either a front or rear) on the trailer or do good tie downs mean that a trailer end is not even needed? i haven't bought good tie downs yet and just trying to design how to make the trailer....
cheers!
Reckless
2nd July 2007, 13:30
Jeepers B000M never seen you make so many typo's. You on the piss mate!!:rofl:
Reckless
2nd July 2007, 13:44
Oh and 96xr.
Probably access better from the rear as when you park at MX events or rides usually the others leave room at the rear to park/load and not much room to get around the sides so you can access the front of the trailer. You might also find that you stuff car in between the trees or position the rear over a patch thats not muddy. You might also want to use the rear for shelter or to put an easy-up against.
Re the height. I have a 4x4ute so am always parking the front wheels on a lump or the rears into a hollow to decrease the rear height for unloading/loading.
Still your choice it doesn't really matter.
Ocean1
2nd July 2007, 13:50
awesome, appreciate your comments
is it best to definitely have a fixed end (either a front or rear) on the trailer or do good tie downs mean that a trailer end is not even needed? i haven't bought good tie downs yet and just trying to design how to make the trailer....
cheers!
It's good to have ends, keeps the tools and crap falling off.
If the front end is hinged at the bottom I'd just make sure the fasteners at the top were good. What works well is a simple frame across the front of the trailer, bit like a pushbike rack. It keeps the front wheel straight and in position and spreads the forward load of the tie-downs across the front gate/panel. You can make a simple one out of 1/2" pipe, I've even seen good ones made from 2" x 2" timber. You don't need to fasten them down so they're easy enough to remove if you need the trailer for more mundane purposes.
Buy some good tie-downs. You can make do without but I've watched one CR250 cartwheel down the road at 80K because someone wasn't as good a boyscout as he thought...
FROSTY
2nd July 2007, 14:07
In a nutshell dude rear loading is easier.I could go into it but its been covered off before or is gonna be covered off.
Given you are in the desighn/build stage for the trailer I'd suggest you weld on lots of SOLID tie down points round the trailer.
If you're looking for tiedowns Go for the AEROFAST 400kg minimum ones
Reckless
2nd July 2007, 14:16
Oceans ideas are good, here's my set up.
I'm a builder (but do plans & design 24/7 now) so timber was what I had lying round. Pics of the racks on the ute and the trailer.
Also use a simple piece of timber in a "T" to stop from pressurising the fork seals when you tie them down. Theres no weight on the one in the pic its just siting there. A lot of guys don't use them but I don'y like leaky seals, maybe I pull them down to tight, I dunno. I'm pretty sure I saw some aftermarket plastic ones last time I was in Botany Honda if you don't want to make them.
The lot took me 2 hrs to make and then slopped on some old grey roof paint I had.
Back to work CYA
B0000M
2nd July 2007, 16:45
Jeepers B000M never seen you make so many typo's. You on the piss mate!!:rofl:
laptop sitting on one leg, banancing, typing with one hand... yea....
Reckless
2nd July 2007, 17:10
An I suppose your riding as well!!!!!!!!!!!!:scooter:
cheese
2nd July 2007, 18:16
Typing with one hand and jacking off with the other aye?
Buddy L
2nd July 2007, 18:58
i wouldn't weild any of the ends closed, because sometime down the track you will want to use the trailer as a "trailer" and that may include dropping the front and rear tailgates.
B0000M
2nd July 2007, 19:47
Typing with one hand and jacking off with the other aye?
na, just sitting in the car actually
Reckless
2nd July 2007, 20:20
Typing with one hand and jacking off with the other aye?
You better make sure you don't get caught B000M. You can go to jail for that sorta thing. So which porn site you at 2day!!:innocent:
B0000M
2nd July 2007, 20:56
You better make sure you don't get caught B000M. You can go to jail for that sorta thing. So which porn site you at 2day!!:innocent:
there was no self pleasure going on.
what can i get in trouble for?
96xr400
3rd July 2007, 01:00
cool. rear it is then. thanks also for pics and i'll see if poss switch springs (nice idea). cheers
barty5
3rd July 2007, 08:08
ive got some old 13" rims pending on the stud pattern if that helps lower it for you. there only going to end up in the scrap heap
96xr400
3rd July 2007, 09:06
cheers for offer i'll see how springs go, ta
If the axle is above the spring, you can put a block between the leaf and the axle
96xr400
3rd July 2007, 12:33
thanks, had a look axle is below spring has welded mounts for brackets, may look at switching later, cheers
Buddy L
3rd July 2007, 19:15
give me a pm if you want i have 100mm lowering blocks for my ute, that came with it, never used them as i want ground clearances ( and they are illegal), yours if you want them.
give me a pm if you want i have 100mm lowering blocks for my ute, that came with it, never used them as i want ground clearances ( and they are illegal), yours if you want them.
How much would you want for them? I'm looking for some blocks for my ute
B0000M
3rd July 2007, 22:34
( and they are illegal)
as a sidenote: you are infact allowed lowering blocks, as long as they are well made, seat correctly, have ends welded on them and are no more than 100mm in height. according to the sections i read in the warrant book, the wof guys, and also havning never failed a wof with them
have them in my hiace, works a treat :)
as a sidenote: you are infact allowed lowering blocks, as long as they are well made, seat correctly, have ends welded on them and are no more than 100mm in height. according to the sections i read in the warrant book, the wof guys, and also havning never failed a wof with them
have them in my hiace, works a treat :)
Sweet thats pretty handy to know
Buddy L
4th July 2007, 19:09
yer thats good news then, i thought that it was anything 25mm or bigger was no no in lowering blocks.
yep you can have them lion, um? 20 bucks:)
i will have to find them now?
I don't have any U bolts that are long enough for them.
ill get back to you on that one bro, I don't know if i want to drop my ute that low..
barty5
5th July 2007, 08:02
lowering blocks are not aloud to be any bigger than 50mm i checked in my virm at work but you can check out on this link
http://www.landtransport.govt.nz/certifiers/virm-in-service/general-09-v3.pdf
have a look near the bottom of page 6 in this file
B0000M
5th July 2007, 11:32
lowering blocks are not aloud to be any bigger than 50mm i checked in my virm at work but you can check out on this link
http://www.landtransport.govt.nz/certifiers/virm-in-service/general-09-v3.pdf
have a look near the bottom of page 6 in this file
shit yea sorry, i meant 50mm! typo! i hope nobody has since got 100s, i also only have 50mms in my van.
sorry guys
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2025 vBulletin Solutions Inc. All rights reserved.