RF900 porn

[yod]

for those RF riders out there - how annoying is it that we dont get the full range of paint jobs over here?
this is nice and there are several others in the same scheme that never made it here either

this one is for sale in the UK, 2300 pounds, 1999 (apparently), 30k miles, polished rims and painted spokes, viper can, double bubble, and check out the rear hugger and the chain guard....i like....pity i cant afford any bling right now:weep:

[riffer]

No such thing as a 1999 RF. They stopped manufacturing them in 97.

First registered in 99 maybe.

I've seen that colour scheme in NZ. Except for the rear hugger of course - that ain't standard. Nor is the paint job on the wheels.

Nice looking bike but.

[yod]

No such thing as a 1999 RF. They stopped manufacturing them in 97.

First registered in 99 maybe.

I've seen that colour scheme in NZ. Except for the rear hugger of course - that ain't standard. Nor is the paint job on the wheels.

Nice looking bike but.

umm...you sure about that? mine's an RV = 97 and im sure my manual mentions an RW = 98

i'd agree that they didnt make a 99 though

i quite that paint scheme in the purple and yellow version, not that the maroon and grey is bad....

[Pussy]

I had one that colour. Bought it brand new in January 2000. It was an RW, meaning '98 model. Most of the RW models sold in NZ were full power pommie spec bikes, easily identifiable by having a light switch on the right hand switchblock. I think it may even be back in NP now. Great bike

[riffer]

Yeah, my apologies.

Strictly speaking the RW was sold in '98. Assembled in 97 but.

I'll give you that one.

[yod]

Yeah, my apologies.

Strictly speaking the RW was sold in '98. Assembled in 97 but.

I'll give you that one.

ah gotcha....

so how do ya tell what 'version' you have?

I've heard mention of an R or an S model meaning the difference between 120hp or 135 ?? (among other things I imagine) something like that???

(as opposed to the R,S,T,V,W year designations I mean)

[Pussy]

ah gotcha....

so how do ya tell what 'version' you have?

I've heard mention of an R or an S model meaning the difference between 120hp or 135 ?? (among other things I imagine) something like that???

(as opposed to the R,S,T,V,W year designations I mean)

My one was assembled in 1998 (W is the '98 letter)
I have a factory service manual (on indefinite loan to a friend), and in it is the info on what is stamped onto the carbs, identifying which model it is. The full power RFs have higher lift cams and a different igniter box among several other differences. Very under-rated bike in my opinion. I put an Ohlins shock on my one, as well as 1.00kg/mm springs and a revalve of the forks (courtesy of RT).... loved it!

[riffer]

ah gotcha....

so how do ya tell what 'version' you have?

I've heard mention of an R or an S model meaning the difference between 120hp or 135 ?? (among other things I imagine) something like that???

(as opposed to the R,S,T,V,W year designations I mean)


Not quite.

The way you can tell which model is by the serial number. On the gear lever side of the headstock is a Vin plate. The serial number starts with JS1G173A. This is the Suzuki model number for the bike. Then the serial number, which on my bike is 3Sxxxxxx. Not sure what the 3 is for, but the S stands for "RS" model, and the other number is which number of that model.

As for the 120HP vs 135HP model, you're way off the mark.

95% of all the RF's in New Zealand are the 120HP models. Easy way to tell is to rip off the seat and look at the model information plate. If it says the timing is to be set at 4 degrees before TDC, its 120HP. If it says 7 degrees BTC its a 135HP model. AFAIK, only the Austrian, French, German and some British models are 135HP, as well as the Australian only Manta Ray special RW model. I have the carbs off the Manta Ray on mine which have the bigger air and petrol jets and different jet needles. I am yet to find a new ignition rotor thingie - or slot mine - to get the 7 degrees before TDC timing which will give me the full 135 neddies out of the bike but to be honest I think it would be good to redo the clutch and timing chain before I do that anyway.

Most of the RFs in New Zealand are either the Canadian (MPH speedo) or Australian models (KPH speedo) but I think F5 Dave has a French or Italian model - however his doesn't have the 7 degrees BTDC timing on it so I really have no idea what it is.

As for the higher lift on the cams, its negligible. Apparently the 1992 GSXR750 cams are better, but they will only give you 8 extra HP over stock so I'd only recommend them if you are given them and can be bothered pulling your head completely apart.

[Colapop]

I have a busted model... but I'm working on it....

[yod]

Not quite.

The way you can tell which model is by the serial number. On the gear lever side of the headstock is a Vin plate. The serial number starts with JS1G173A. This is the Suzuki model number for the bike. Then the serial number, which on my bike is 3Sxxxxxx. Not sure what the 3 is for, but the S stands for "RS" model, and the other number is which number of that model.

As for the 120HP vs 135HP model, you're way off the mark.

95% of all the RF's in New Zealand are the 120HP models. Easy way to tell is to rip off the seat and look at the model information plate. If it says the timing is to be set at 4 degrees before TDC, its 120HP. If it says 7 degrees BTC its a 135HP model. AFAIK, only the Austrian, French, German and some British models are 135HP, as well as the Australian only Manta Ray special RW model. I have the carbs off the Manta Ray on mine which have the bigger air and petrol jets and different jet needles. I am yet to find a new ignition rotor thingie - or slot mine - to get the 7 degrees before TDC timing which will give me the full 135 neddies out of the bike but to be honest I think it would be good to redo the clutch and timing chain before I do that anyway.

Most of the RFs in New Zealand are either the Canadian (MPH speedo) or Australian models (KPH speedo) but I think F5 Dave has a French or Italian model - however his doesn't have the 7 degrees BTDC timing on it so I really have no idea what it is.

As for the higher lift on the cams, its negligible. Apparently the 1992 GSXR750 cams are better, but they will only give you 8 extra HP over stock so I'd only recommend them if you are given them and can be bothered pulling your head completely apart.

interesting, thanks for that mate

yup mine says 4 deg BTDC and number is 0Vxxxxxx so rf900rv model although the vin actyally has 10/96 on it as well....by what youre saying it sounds like its a canadian version since its an mph version

cheers

[Grahameeboy]

Not quite.

The way you can tell which model is by the serial number. On the gear lever side of the headstock is a Vin plate. The serial number starts with JS1G173A. This is the Suzuki model number for the bike. Then the serial number, which on my bike is 3Sxxxxxx. Not sure what the 3 is for, but the S stands for "RS" model, and the other number is which number of that model.

As for the 120HP vs 135HP model, you're way off the mark.

95% of all the RF's in New Zealand are the 120HP models. Easy way to tell is to rip off the seat and look at the model information plate. If it says the timing is to be set at 4 degrees before TDC, its 120HP. If it says 7 degrees BTC its a 135HP model. AFAIK, only the Austrian, French, German and some British models are 135HP, as well as the Australian only Manta Ray special RW model. I have the carbs off the Manta Ray on mine which have the bigger air and petrol jets and different jet needles. I am yet to find a new ignition rotor thingie - or slot mine - to get the 7 degrees before TDC timing which will give me the full 135 neddies out of the bike but to be honest I think it would be good to redo the clutch and timing chain before I do that anyway.

Most of the RFs in New Zealand are either the Canadian (MPH speedo) or Australian models (KPH speedo) but I think F5 Dave has a French or Italian model - however his doesn't have the 7 degrees BTDC timing on it so I really have no idea what it is.

As for the higher lift on the cams, its negligible. Apparently the 1992 GSXR750 cams are better, but they will only give you 8 extra HP over stock so I'd only recommend them if you are given them and can be bothered pulling your head completely apart.

It says 'Honda'...!!

Are you looking for an ignition advancer? I have one somewhere if you want it.

[megarich]

Check this page out for how to ID a Suzuki

http://www.suzukicycles.org/_misc/identification.shtml

[megarich]

Hey,

Anyone know how a 5 degree advance rotor will go in an RF900. Only other mod is a two Brother pipe.

Cheers

[F5 Dave]

for those RF riders out there - how annoying is it that we dont get the full range of paint jobs over here?
this is nice and there are several others in the same scheme that never made it here either. . .

I know this is an old thread & all, but it quite Ironic that the pic is under a Honda sign. Those paintjobs (& the fav has to be Purple with yellow flashes) are reminiscent of the truly tasteless Hondas circa 1990. More foul than a battery henhouse.

But like an old friend, I don't care what it looks like, in a single colour it is merely ugly, but very useful. Bit like the washing machine.

Whereas my sprotbike is more like my fridge. Double vertical doors, Wine rack, quick drink cool feature with alarm. :clap: I'll never buy F&P again. Go Westinghouse. Pics later.

[riffer]

Hey,

Anyone know how a 5 degree advance rotor will go in an RF900. Only other mod is a two Brother pipe.

Cheers

Very easily. Remove the signal generator cover, undo the bolt holding the rotor on, and replace.

Whatever you do, don't overtighten the rotor bolt. New crankshafts aren't cheap and a helicoil is not an option.

[megarich]

Very easily. Remove the signal generator cover, undo the bolt holding the rotor on, and replace.

Whatever you do, don't overtighten the rotor bolt. New crankshafts aren't cheap and a helicoil is not an option.

Cheers riffer, what I was meaning was do they run ok with a 5 degree advance. Ive read that a 4 degree advance is no problems so was just wondering about a 5 degree.

[megarich]

Very easily. Remove the signal generator cover, undo the bolt holding the rotor on, and replace.

Whatever you do, don't overtighten the rotor bolt. New crankshafts aren't cheap and a helicoil is not an option.

Cheer, what I was meaning is do you know how the engine will behave with a 5 deg advance.

I have read that with a 4 deg they are fine.

As mine is a Canadian one if i put a 5 deg advance will it then made it 9 deg BTDC?

Cheers