Running in

[SVboy]

Yes, I know this has been covered in depth, and yes, I know, search is my friend[but in this case it hasnt]....BUT I want your ideas on running in a brand new Suzuki gsxr 600. Links to various sites would be appreciated too,,,,

[Cajun]

The running in debate is one of those that everyone as own opinion.

Just run it in how you plan on riding it future
biggest thing is don't run it in on the same rpm, vary the rpm lots.
And look at dumping the oil after per say the first 100kms or something,

[Ewan Oozarmy]

And never allow the engine to labour during run-in.

[canarlee]

all bikes are redlined in every gear for an amount of time before they leave the factory (so a few different people tell me) so is "running in" a bike really necesary?

[Crisis management]

The best thing you can do is to ask the bike shop you bought it off, especially if you expect them to stand by the warranty period.

[SVboy]

Yeah cajun, I value your input, as you have had one of these for a while. I am pretty conservative-so guess I will probably follow the manual. Some sites advocate giving a bike heaps straight from the showroom floor[in a "controlled" way]. My gut feeling is-Suzuki built it-why would they advocate a harmful process for the critical period of their product? Certainly, changing the oil at 100 odd kms sounds clever to me[and not loading the bike too]. Cajun-what oil do you use?

[Cajun]

sometimes the running in period is there so stupid people don't jump on a bike and kill themselfs in first few kms.

I know people who have used brake in fast/hard, and brake in following guide, and both bikes ended up putting out simlar power.

If you are with a bike short time (2 years) go hard, if plan on keeping it long term, don't thrash crap out of from day dot, but just ride how you plan on riding it. And try and run it in over a couple of head cycles, aka go do two three big rides to get that first 1000kms in, not 50 small ones

But just ride how you plan on riding the bike, just vary the rpm lots, aka don't sit in 5gear at 100kms at 7,000rpm if you are having to sit at one sorta speed, go thru the gear box, vary the rpm and throttle position.

Regarding Oil, the dealer i brought mine thru dealt in Shell oil, and well at the time Brian Bernard was still racing suzukis, so i though i stick with that, so my bike has always had shell oil in it, mineral from run in, then at 1000km service, then from 6,000kms i have always run full top of line fully synthinic oil, (sitting at 36,000kms now)

But if ya can, dump the oil at 100-200kms and then dump again at 1000, oil pretty cheap in big scheme of things.

[SVboy]

Yeah, good advice-Filter too at 100odd kms? Interesting the heat cycle thing. Traditional theory would say that taking it thru its full cycle to hot, and then letting it cool a few times would be best, rather than a long time at full operating temp? It looks like a change to mineral oil at 100kms is the go. Do I get the shop to go to full synthetic at the 1000km service-or semi-synth until I change it myself? I think you are right, ride it "nice"-because I hope to keep it for a while.....:sunny:

[Cajun]

filter is $20, so not that much to change, keep with what shop says at 1000, i mineral in again at 1000, it was 6,000 that it went to fully i believe.

Oil brand just pick a brand of your choosing, and just stick to that brand for life ownership of the bike, its what i would say, even if you have to buy the oil else where and give it ot shop when they service your bike.


Full hot to cold is good, but more do that over 2-5 longer sorta ones instead of lots of short ones. thats just method i followed.

[Crisis management]

I wouldn't get too tied up with heat cycles, think about what you are trying to run in.
You are not running in bearings, they fit perfectly well at the start thanks.
You are not running in the gearbox, it also is well fitted together.
You are not running in the valve train, althought there may be some closing up of valve clearances after 1000 km's.

You are running in the piston rings.

This is what I would do....you decide for yourself whether or not it's for you.

To run in or "bed" rings a series of load on, load off cycles works best ie; acceleration and deceleration. In a suitable gear, so the motor is in the middle of its rev range, accelerate up to 75% revs then close the throttle and when speed drops to your start point repeat the procedure.
Obviously speed / safety is an issue here but the aim is to not load up the rings at low speed "lugging" and not to use peak revs cause thats all new to the engine components (they may not enjoy the experience).
Gradually increase the rev range until after 500km's you are hitting peak revs.

You should be able to run the motor in in one day.

As far as heat cycles are concerned, an engine is designed to operate at temperature so why make it heat up and cool down all the time? It's like asking an athlete to run a marathon with 15 minute breaks every 5 km's, just makes it hard to get going again.

Seriously.....talk to the shop you got it off and take heed of their advice.

[Coldrider]

If you use a semi of fully synthetic oil too soon your engine may not wear in properly, even mineral oils are extremely good these days.

[Solarwind]

The owner's manual for my Kawasaki gave guidelines for maximum RPM and speed during the run-in period, but then when talking to the shop who sold me the bike, they said the Ducatis they sell always ran better if you rode them hard-out from day 1. The most important thing is that you take your bike in for its first and second services on time.