Oil filter wrench & oil type

[bert_is_evil]

I'm brokedy brokey broke at the moment so am going to do my own oil & filter changes from now on. I don't have an oil filter wrench but I do have a torque wrench, I'm wondering if you can buy fitting to go on the torque wrench for the filter rather than buying a filter wrench? I was going to buy a filter wrench but when I consulted my owners manual it shows a torque wrench and gives a tightning measurement so I figure that would be a better investment?

I have the filter but I'm confused about what type the oil should be, the manual has the diagram below, but that gives me too many choises so I need some advice please.

Thanks :)

[justsomeguy]

hi,

Not sure why you need a torque wrench. Just use a normal spanner to losen the sump plug. If your oil filter sticks out externally cover it with a couple of plastic bags and seal it with some rubber bands (to prevent a mess) then carefully stab it with a screwdriver and use that as a handle to twist it off.

Buy a new sump plug washer and before srcrewing it back on lightly coat the filter washer with a little oil. Screw it back on to hand tightness.

As for what oil, ring a few bike shops up. The Motul Factory line is what I use for my bike. However Plutoline make a nice line too.

In that picture the numbers up top indicate the surrounding temperature that the bike oil performs best in.

[Cajun]

Shrug i have changed oil on the 600 past few services, with out any issue, i don;t have a filter wrench, i just use my Bananman Super Powers, to highen up the filter with, and the sump plug i use normal socket set.

Oil i would suggust some semi synthic oil of some kind from you favouite bike shop.

[bert_is_evil]

Oh right, I've done an oil & filter change in a car before but not a bike, not sure why I assumed it would have to be done up to a particular tightness (perhaps I just care more about my bike than my old car). I like the stabbing it with a screwdriver idea, that hadn't ocurred to me. Thanks for that

[Cajun]

just make sure you put a bit of oil on the oil filter oring before attaching it to bike.

yeah i stab old filter with a screw driver also to get it off,

remmeber best to dump the oil in bike when the engine is warm.

I am sure there be someone in wellington area that could give you a handy, if you haven't done a oil change on a bike before

[The Stranger]

I'm brokedy brokey broke at the moment so am going to do my own oil & filter changes from now on. I don't have an oil filter wrench but I do have a torque wrench, I'm wondering if you can buy fitting to go on the torque wrench for the filter rather than buying a filter wrench? I was going to buy a filter wrench but when I consulted my owners manual it shows a torque wrench and gives a tightning measurement so I figure that would be a better investment?

I have the filter but I'm confused about what type the oil should be, the manual has the diagram below, but that gives me too many choises so I need some advice please.

Thanks :)

As is typical of KB you are going to get all sorts of conflicting answers.
Stabbing with a screwdriver should only be used as an absolute last resort. It is not the kind of thing I would recommend to someone who hasn't changed a filter before. I have seen 2 issues go wrong with this approach.1) The filter doesn't budge, but instead the screw driver rips the filter apart leaving you with a buggered filter and no vehicle to drive and you still have the original problem to resolve, but less options now.
2) There is a threaded pipe which extends a small way up the inside of the filter I have seen that hit and snapped with the screw driver.

There are many different and inexpensive oil filter removing tools for fitting in different situations. It wouldn't hurt to go to Repco or similar and ask to try them and see what fits your particular bike.

As to the grade of oil, any grade that falls within the ambient air temperature range for where the bike will be used is ok. If you are going for a full synthetic I would use the 10W-40 or if you are going for a semi synthetic I use a 15W-40. A 10W-30 will give you a little more power but also a little more engine wear.

[vifferman]

If (and it's a big IF) the filter has been properly fitted, you should be able to get it off with your bare hands. If not, then use whatever means you can, given the constraints of room to move etc. I've used a strap-type wrench, a universal chain wrench (an expensive and almost invariably most useless tool), and even a monkey wrench to remove filters on all my cars'n'bikes I've owned (thousands and thousands, if not more than a couple). I've only once ever had to resort to killing the filter with a sharpened screwdriver through the heart.
Here's the important bit: when you put the new filter on, moisten the seal with a smear of engine oil, and tighten it with your hand only - NO TOOLS.
Engine oil: virtually anything in the appropriate grade made by a reputable manufacturer will do - don't get too hung up on it. I usually use Motul 5100, but that's because I like the smell.

[NinjaNanna]

As is typical of KB you are going to get all sorts of conflicting answers.
Stabbing with a screwdriver should only be used as an absolute last resort. It is not the kind of thing I would recommend to someone who hasn't changed a filter before. I have seen 2 issues go wrong with this approach.1) The filter doesn't budge, but instead the screw driver rips the filter apart leaving you with a buggered filter and no vehicle to drive and you still have the original problem to resolve, but less options now.
2) There is a threaded pipe which extends a small way up the inside of the filter I have seen that hit and snapped with the screw driver.

There are many different and inexpensive oil filter removing tools for fitting in different situations. It wouldn't hurt to go to Repco or similar and ask to try them and see what fits your particular bike.

As to the grade of oil, any grade that falls within the ambient air temperature range for where the bike will be used is ok. If you are going for a full synthetic I would use the 10W-40 or if you are going for a semi synthetic I use a 15W-40. A 10W-30 will give you a little more power but also a little more engine wear.


Listen to this man, he is exactly right, my removal tool I bought from Super Cheap and cost about $15, it has a metal band that tightens around the filter and is quite small, so its been perfect for the couple of bikes that I've had.

[bert_is_evil]

It is true that I most likely would break something or stab myself if I started stabing at things with a screwdriver

[bert_is_evil]

I just spoke to my Mum who is coming to visit me for the weekend - she said I could have her oil filter wrench and is going to bring it with her :) Now I just need to buy some oil and I'm ready to go.

[Mental Trousers]

Use a semi-synthetic. A 10W40 is ok but your girl will probably burn a fair amount of that meaning you'd have to top it up regularly. So something like a 15W50 would be good. Most bike shops sell Motul so give that a try. Definitely do not use car oil.

Instead of stabbing the filter with a screw driver use a belt. Wrap it around the filter, put it through the buckle but don't use the little pointy thing that stops it coming undone. Then fold it back so it's pulling hard against the buckle and give it heaps. Usually works sweet as and if it doesn't then the only that will definitely move the filter is a filter wrench.

[Swoop]

...then carefully stab it with a screwdriver and use that as a handle to twist it off.

Buy a new sump plug washer and before srcrewing it back on ...
I would suggest purchasing the sump plug washer before you start pulling things apart. (A different storey if you do not know the size, of course)
There is nothing worse than requiring a new "bit" when the bike has parts scattered all over the gagre floor!:weep:

[Coldrider]

Do not get used engine oil on your hands/skin, it is so bad for you (known carciogen,) get a pair of latex gloves (so cheap).

[justsomeguy]

I would suggest purchasing the sump plug washer before you start pulling things apart. (A different storey if you do not know the size, of course)
There is nothing worse than requiring a new "bit" when the bike has parts scattered all over the gagre floor!:weep:

Oh ofcourse - I was speaking of the process as a whole. Any reputable bike shop should be able to sell you all that you need. A filter removal tool shouldn't cost more than $25 - but I like the idea of stabbing something.:2thumbsup

[Coldrider]

but I like the idea of stabbing something.:2thumbsup
I've stabbed one before also, Ive also cut one in parts to see the crud captured.

[HungusMaximist]

Hey bro.

Now before you go and do anything, make sure which type of filter you have on your bike!

Is it one those with a little bolt in the middle?

If it's doesn't have one then it's your average spin type oil filter.

I believe both work in the same way, it spins on and spins off, the only difference is the small bolt.

For your average oil filter, just use one of the strap type wrench but just make sure they go small enough to wrap around your filter as alot of them on the market are for cars and are too big. Or you can purchase a proper filter clamp for about $12 from Super Cheap Autos (which I have, but it's not very effective as it doesn't fit perfectly as it's a little too big).

Also, if you have a socket wrench, you can purchase a socket bit with a cloth strap connected to it. One of my mates uses it and he says it works really well, so I this is another option but I don't actually know where to buy the that specific socket piece (repco perhapes..)

Just make sure when you're removing your filter, be sure to have a drain pan under it!

Give us a holla if you need more help yo.

[tomtyer-drake]

if in doubt have a go at undo'n the filter, if it comes undone by hand :D if not, you need tools.

[Fatjim]

Why don't you just get a bloke to do it then you won't have to put up with all this conflicting advice.

[HungusMaximist]

Since changing oil is one of the best thing you can do for your bike and also of the most important skill you will learn in motorcycle maintenance.... you go girl and learn how to do it yourself aye..!

Fatjim is right all the conflicting advice on here! It can be hard to figure what's important, but what most people have contributed already are all good.

Get a friend to show you how to do it, then you do it. It's easy and simple, you just need to be shown what to do.

Good luck!

[Coldrider]

Nah, she wants to do it herself, and good on her. When you've done it once it's no problem.

[Max Preload]

The only time you should ever need to employ a filter wrench to remove a spin on filter is when the person who fitted it was an idiot and overtightened it when installing.

[bert_is_evil]

There does seem to be a lot of conflicting information! But I'm sure that taking off the fairing will probably end up being the trickiest bit (damn those fidley screws)... I'll keep an eye out for a small bolt on the filter, I'd never heard of such a thing previously.

[Mental Trousers]

Yours is a spin on canister type (see attachment) so there isn't a bolt. When you take the filter off you'll find a shaft sticking out a short way from the engine with some holes and a thread on it. That's what the filter spins onto.

I hate removing the fairings too. One of these days I'm gonna get a bunch of Dzeus fasteners and replace the little bolts.

[Fatjim]

OK, some advice.


1. Warm the engine before draining.
2. remove filler plug.
3. Place container under the drain plug. MAke sure it is larger enough to catch all the oil, and wide enough to catch the oil when it spurts out under pressure as well as the drips at the end (This is why guys are better at draining oil). Remove the sump lug and wait for the dribble to nearly stop (it never does)
4. LOOSEN oil filter SLIGHTLY, use an old rubber tyre tube or a wrench if the pillock who put on over tightened it or you have weak wrists.
5. Bang a hole in the lowest point of the filter to allow any oil to drain out before you remove it. Place a container underneath first. ;)
6. Clear sump plug. sump thread and filter housing.
7. Smear a small amount of oil on the filter seal and screw in finger tight.
8. Refit sump plug, pref with new washer but not essential. This does not need to be over tight, don't put your full weight into tightening it, especially if you are a big girl. You do NOT want to strip the thread on the sump.
9. Fill sump to top measure mark and replace filler cap. (important)
10. Run engine and recheck level and check for leaks.


Remember to have bike level before filling, but it may help drainage to have it on the side stand.


In terms of oil for bikes, the average bike works well with a good diesel engine oil. I use delo or rimula in the VTR, whichever is cheaper in the 10 litlre pack from supercheap atuos.

[The Stranger]

OK, some advice.

1. Warm the engine before draining.



Always wondered, why warm the engine before draining the oil?

Why distribute the oil around the motor in an attempt to make the distributed oil drain easier, when presumably it had already drained from the last time it was hot?
Or
Is it so as you can get hot oil burns as you remove the sump plug, or burn yourself on the headers whilst removing the oil filter?
Or
There is something I missed there.

[justsomeguy]

There is something I missed there.

Hotter oil flows better, gravity and time will make sure nothing stays in the engine.

Colder oil may still leave traces of itself around the place, is in a more solid state and doesn't flow as well.

[justsomeguy]

In terms of oil for bikes, the average bike works well with a good diesel engine oil. I use delo or rimula in the VTR, whichever is cheaper in the 10 litlre pack from supercheap atuos.

Really?:shit:

[Coldrider]

Diesel rated oil is a high detergent oil for cleaning out the sludge left by diesel burning engines, use a motorcycle formulated oil, it takes care of the engine, gearbox & clutch, with the appropriate additives to stop the oil breaking down by running through meshed gears (as happens with the original austin/morris/leyland minis).

[The Stranger]

Hotter oil flows better, gravity and time will make sure nothing stays in the engine.

Colder oil may still leave traces of itself around the place, is in a more solid state and doesn't flow as well.

Ok, just to check that we are on the same wave length. Unless you have a dry sump engine (and most don't) when the engine is off, all the oil drains to the lowest part of the motor, the sump. When the motor is running the oil is picked up from the sump and pumped around the engine, the head and valve train at the very top of the motor being a big consumer. We want oil from this point and others to drain to the sump and be incorporated in the waste oil.

We drain the oil from the sump right.

So all the oil has drained down due to previously being hot and due to gravity over a period of time.

You are now saying that by some magic this one last heating of the oil is going to have a special effect and make it drain down faster than the last time you heated the motor? and to add to this special effect it will also accelerate the effects of time and gravity to move even more oil more quickly to the sump?

[Fatjim]

Its more to do with getting out of the sump. Cold oil is thicker and will take longer to drain. I suppose its more likely to leave suspended matter in the sump because of the thicker layer of oil left in the sump.

[bimotabob]

Hi

I always tighten by hand and remove the same way no probs.

Had to screwdriver a mates bike that was on too tight as we didn't have the proper tool.
Always go for the end if you have to do that as sometimes there is a internal sleeve going up a certain distance which wouldn't be good to whack.

Motul 5100 is all good. :yes:



Cheers

[Fatjim]

Diesel rated oil is a high detergent oil for cleaning out the sludge left by diesel burning engines, use a motorcycle formulated oil, it takes care of the engine, gearbox & clutch, with the appropriate additives to stop the oil breaking down by running through meshed gears (as happens with the original austin/morris/leyland minis).


The following is my understanding only, and you should do your own research.

Diesel oils are designed for longer maintatnence schedules and therefore made from a better base oil. They do not need as many additives that passenger vehicle oils have to maintain viscosity at high temps. Those additives (polymers) degrade when used in motorcycle engines because of the higher temps/revs and the grinding action of gearboxes.

Synthetic oils do not use polymers and are well suited to gearboxes, but are more expensive. But they do not provide increased protection when new compared to semi/mineral oils.

I understand that SOME motorcycle oils perform well in motorcycles in terms of maintaining oil performance. But there are a number on the market that are re badged passenger vehicle oils and are rubbish. You get adequate performance for up to a 1000k's, then they degrade markedly, and you end up with increased wear rates.

If you want to do extended milages (>12,000km) then you'd want to go for a synthetic. But you should keep an eye on it. I tried a Shell fully synthetic last year and was surprised to see it drain like water when it was hot. I took that as a BAD thing.

I change the oil/filter on the VTR every 5-6,000k and a good diesel oil will easily last that long, and be far cheaper than a synthetic/semi oils/motorcycle oils.