What to look for on VTRs?

[Harry the Barstard]

Im thinkin of getting a VTR. Ive riden one and it could be the model for me. Only down side is i know nothing about them.

So any good info will be well recieved. Stuff like what to look for when buying, fuel ecconomy, bits that shit themselves early, what years are better than others, costs and flaws etc.

Also any good or bad experiances with them.

Cheers.

[NighthawkNZ]

Im thinkin of getting a VTR. Ive riden one and it could be the model for me. Only down side is i know nothing about them.

So any good info will be well recieved. Stuff like what to look for when buying, fuel ecconomy, bits that shit themselves early, what years are better than others, costs and flaws etc.

Also any good or bad experiances with them.

Cheers.

They are a very forgiving bike, and some what dosile unless you work at it to wake them up. Heaps of low down torque which can be addictive which comes from the V-Twin and can be despective as you don't feel the pull as much but the speed keeps increasing...

You may concider getting a dyno kit install they become a slightly different bike then.

The motor is pretty prooven and solid (if it ain't broke don't fix it) Gear box 1st and 2nd gear can be clunky but thats a honda thing anyway

Get a later model (2002 up) they have the bigger fuel tank. I can do around 250 to 270ks to the tank but as soon as you start to play and work to wake her up you can watch the fuel being sucked and then we are only looking at odd 200ks

They are not the fastest Nor the slowest thing on two wheels, and although they are a forgiving bike they need to be "ridden" not just ridden to wake them up to have fun.

[MotoGirl]

Im thinkin of getting a VTR. Ive riden one and it could be the model for me. Only down side is i know nothing about them.

So any good info will be well recieved. Stuff like what to look for when buying, fuel ecconomy, bits that shit themselves early, what years are better than others, costs and flaws etc.

Also any good or bad experiances with them.

Cheers.

I owned the F2 model ('02) for three years :love: I bought the bike brand new and never had anything crap out. This model had the slightly larger fuel tank than the previous model (19L I think mine had?) and the fuel gauge would generally start flashing around 220km.

My bike did everything I wanted it to, and the only thing I had changed was the shock to make the seat height 4cm lower. Other than that it was stock standard and I loved it right up to the day I low sided it at Taupo.

Like NighthawkNZ said, the VTR can be clunky between first and second. Mine used to crunch going into second (no other gear so it's not the operator!).

[jonbuoy]

I miss mine, great road bike, these are my experiences with one - really need a decent set of pipes to set the noise free - they sound loverly on the overun. Reg/rect crap out check its charging properly, soggy front forks on early models mine was pretty scary on bumpy corners over legal speeds when I got it, you may catch cam chain tensioner paranoia if you read through the VTR forums, I did and got a set of manual tensioners.
Check steering head/rear wheel bearings from wheelie action. Slightly over geared stock. Early tanks have piss poor range - 140Km's and you'll be thinking about looking for a servo. If I had kept it I would have done a CBR front end and Ohlins rear end conversion. Irridium plugs made a heap of difference.

Not heard of much else being a common problem. Not as mental as a TL or as sexy as a duke or RSV but Honda have been quietly churning these out for a number of years with not too many updates, they must be finding buyers for them.

[NighthawkNZ]

I miss mine, great road bike, these are my experiences with one - really need a decent set of pipes to set the noise free - they sound loverly on the overun. Reg/rect crap out check its charging properly, soggy front forks on early models mine was pretty scary on bumpy corners over legal speeds when I got it, you may catch cam chain tensioner paranoia if you read through the VTR forums, I did and got a set of manual tensioners.
Check steering head/rear wheel bearings from wheelie action. Slightly over geared stock. Early tanks have piss poor range - 140Km's and you'll be thinking about looking for a servo. If I had kept it I would have done a CBR front end and Ohlins rear end conversion. Irridium plugs made a heap of difference.


Buying mine second hand, the last owner had set it all up, did all the mods to mine and did all the hard work so I really can't comment to much on stock standard setup, but they can be a fun bike if you play and the thing I love about it is it can be dosile untill you kick it in the guts and say wake up girl twisties ahead...

[dangerous]

YO, go the VTR... I had the F3 and it was awesome the suspension is shit but usable. IMHO the Storm is a beter bike than the SV only cos its carbed and that makes it a lot of fun, when them big carbs dump a mouthfull of juce into the engine it hauls arse with a punch, unlike the injected bikes that are very lineal.
I had no problems, however they aint that good on gas but as long as you get the F2 on then you will still get up to 250ks max.

[Harry the Barstard]

stupid question but what year did the f2's come out?

[McJim]

What kind of VTR? SP1?

[dangerous]

stupid question but what year did the f2's come out?

two thousand and two

[Harry the Barstard]

I see what you guys are saying about the pipes. Im yet to see one for sale with stanard ones one. on. Ive also noticed some with upgraded oilers, is that also a common fault?

Also i take it that they are all still running carbs?

[Sidewinder]

a farm a tank two wheels a motor and a rider is all you need to look out for.

all up a loovely bike!


GO THE VTR

[98tls]

YO, go the VTR... I had the F3 and it was awesome the suspension is shit but usable. IMHO the Storm is a beter bike than the SV only cos its carbed and that makes it a lot of fun, when them big carbs dump a mouthfull of juce into the engine it hauls arse with a punch, unlike the injected bikes that are very lineal.
I had no problems, however they aint that good on gas but as long as you get the F2 on then you will still get up to 250ks max. Dont mean to basterdize your thread here mate and yea go the VTR but just cant help but reply to Ds post,i agree with what your saying in general there D but one of the greatest pleasures ive had in my years of riding is the rush that kicks in at 6500 rpms on a TLS.....for an injected bike it is truely remarkable.

[dangerous]

I see what you guys are saying about the pipes. Im yet to see one for sale with stanard ones one. on. Ive also noticed some with upgraded oilers, is that also a common fault?

Also i take it that they are all still running carbs?

I had scorpions bit loud but wicked sound.
What do you mean by 'upgraded oilers' ? never heard of that.
Yip all carbs, the storm has bearly changed since 97, bit of a pity however the SP1 - SP5 are all injected.


Dont mean to basterdize your thread here mate and yea go the VTR but just cant help but reply to Ds post,i agree with what your saying in general there D but one of the greatest pleasures ive had in my years of riding is the rush that kicks in at 6500 rpms on a TLS.....for an injected bike it is truely remarkable.
I never mentioned the TL, they are a diferent bike to the SV... and I like em, but not for touring on... the TL is a beter bike for what it ws designed but the VTR is a beter alrounder.

[Fatjim]

Pretty standard mods are

pipes
Jet
front braided lines and sintered pads
suspension (front and rear) including spacers above rear shock.

Pre 2001?? had dodgy Reg/Rec's and Cam Chain tensioners, both can be fixed and if they go wrong just tend to leave you stranded, although the Reg/Rec may fry your battery. You'd be hard pressed to find a pre 2001 which hasn't had these fixed, but ask for reciepts or eyeball them. The newer CCT has a red dot on it, not sure if you can see it without stripping the bike. PM me if you want me to have a look on mine. The original Reg/Reg should be obvious due to looking old. It's attached under the seat to the subframe.

Look for one thats had the forks done, although this seems to be rare in NZ. Lots of '03's came with scorpions free, but where not re jetted, Scorpion say it doesn't need it.

They stopped making the best colour (Yellow) before 2001, the next best was a matt black, although I suspect it shows scratches pretty well.

You should be able to pick up an 03 for around 7-8k depending on the millage.


Good forum is http://groups.yahoo.com/group/VTR_List/ although most have changed bikes as you do. Pretty loyal lot with answers to all question if you can't be bothered using the search key.

[NighthawkNZ]

I see what you guys are saying about the pipes. Im yet to see one for sale with stanard ones one. on. Ive also noticed some with upgraded oilers, is that also a common fault?

Also i take it that they are all still running carbs?

Yes they are all carbs... Not sure what you mean by upgraded oilers though... Do you mean Scott oiler? I have a Scottoiler on my vtr its just for automatically oiling the chain fits to any by with a chain final drive... nothing more... gives extra ks to the chain and sprokets... and I just lasey at remembering to oil them manually :Slap:

[dangerous]

Yeah what Fat J says I agree, re jet is good but I never needed to with the pipes and after market filter.



Good forum is http://groups.yahoo.com/group/VTR_List/ although most have changed bikes as you do. Pretty loyal lot with answers to all question if you can't be bothered using the search key.
And a beter forum is http://ozfirestorm.proboards34.com/

[98tls]

I never mentioned the TL, they are a diferent bike to the SV... and I like em, but not for touring on... the TL is a beter bike for what it ws designed but the VTR is a beter alrounder. Agreed........im just sulkin cause i binned mine today and am f$@kin sore.:angry:

[NighthawkNZ]

Agreed........im just sulkin cause i binned mine today and am f$@kin sore.:angry:

much damage. ?

[chanceyy]

much damage. ?

ouchy ouchy .. apart from His pride you mean :dodge::argh:

[T.W.R]

Agreed........im just sulkin cause i binned mine today and am f$@kin sore.:angry:

:eek: WTF! bud hope things aren't to major on the bike. take some anaesthetic for your own aches :drinkup:

[98tls]

:eek: WTF! bud hope things aren't to major on the bike. take some anaesthetic for your own aches :drinkup: Not to good and i am mate......no work tomorrow is the only good part.

[T.W.R]

Not to good and i am mate......no work tomorrow is the only good part.

:doh: Bugger! doesn't sound to flash mate, least you're in one piece :niceone:

[98tls]

:doh: Bugger! doesn't sound to flash mate, least you're in one piece :niceone: Nothing the credit card wont fix...apologies to the starter of this thread..........

[Harry the Barstard]

No worries mate sorry to hear about the bin.

Its good to see there is a good and helpfull vtr following. Ive been riding zxr's the past four years and found them to have a good following. Makes life a bit eaiser when others have been there and done that and have a bit of advise to share.

Cheers fellas, at least now i know the years to go for and a few things to look out for when i go shoppin.

[98tls]

VTRs are everywere.......touring/scratching doing everything there is for a motorcycle to do i reckon...sort of says it all really as per how good they are.

[T.W.R]

Make sure if you get a VTR that the battery is good in it, we've got one in at work for a full service at the moment and it's up for a new battery :shutup: over $300 for a decent one and $95 for a cheap Chinese one :sick:

[Ocean1]

Not to good and i am mate......no work tomorrow is the only good part.

Well that's OK then, well worth the pain eh?
Hope you've got a sympathetic nurse or two handy dude, take care.


Make sure if you get a VTR that the battery is good in it, we've got one in at work for a full service at the moment and it's up for a new battery :shutup: over $300 for a decent one and $95 for a cheap Chinese one :sick:

Now that's weird, was in picking up a new battery for the KLX on Friday and a new-ish looking VTR arrived with the same problem. At that price I'm not surprised the guy was looking a bit grumpy.

[T.W.R]

Now that's weird, was in picking up a new battery for the KLX on Friday and a new-ish looking VTR arrived with the same problem. At that price I'm not surprised the guy was looking a bit grumpy.

Yeah I just about dropped the phone when I heard the price when I was ordering it :crazy:

[Ocean1]

Yeah I just about dropped the phone when I heard the price when I was ordering it :crazy:

Big V twins must take a bit more to crank over than a 4, they typically got bigger batteries?

[T.W.R]

Big V twins must take a bit more to crank over than a 4, they typically got bigger batteries?

That's the thing though, it isn't a big battery :pinch: physical size is roughly 20cm x 10cm x 10cm and it's only 12v 14ah, it's a wee sealed bugger!

[vifferman]

The newer CCT has a red dot on it, not sure if you can see it without stripping the bike.
Not true - there is no "new CCT"; they are all the same, regardless of whether the dot is red, pink, purple, or green. You have a choice of replacing them every couple of years, or ditching them for APE CCTs, or converting them to manual. If you don't warm the bike up by leaving it idling on the sidestand, and don't use engine braking excessively, they'll last longer. If you buy APE CCTs, don't get them from the local dealer - he adds 100% just for ordering them from the US for you.

Other issues:
Gearbox. If you get a newish, low-mileage bike, get a Factory Pro Evo Star kit for it before the changes get crappy. (That's if they actually make one). Also, don't keep the chain too tight - it will make a tired gearbox much worse for popping out of gear, missed shifts, etc.
Cutting out: They can have issues with cutting out if the idle speed isn't set right, and the carb's are set up a little lean. You go to change down or come to a stop, and the bike does a little backfire and blows the flames out. Easily tweaked to fix it.
Suspension: Too cheap. I actually thought my stock suspension was pretty good compared to other Hondas I've owned, but it's not set up right WRT spring and damping rates. Replacement front springs and a new rear shock are the go.
Comfort: The early models (pre-2001?) have handlebars that are too low for around town, and the seat is not designed for humans. Baboons, perhaps?
Gearing: They're geared WAAAAY too high, with the engine turning over at only 2600 at 100km/h. Fit a larger rear sprocket/smaller front sprocket and up the smiles/miles ratio heaps.
Looks: Not much you can do about those, but the VTR is one ugly mofo. An aftermarket bellypan or fairing lower helps. Then again, you can't see how it looks when you're sitting on it.
Fuel consumption: I was lucky to get 30mpg from mine, or about 150km/h per tankful. Just one of those things, I guess. Just keep an eye on the mileage, because when those 48mm carbs suck the dredges from the tank VERY fast.
Electrical: Apart from the aforementioned R/R issues, the front plug lead/boot can be problematic, as it's exposed to water/shit coming off the front tyre. Mine had a very small tear in it, and whenever it rained the ignition would cut out. Easily and cheaply fixed.
Brakes: The front brake lines are stupid; the 'hump' above the front mudguard collects air bubbles which are hard to bleed out, and makes the brakes VERY mushy. Fitting braided lines can make them feel a bit wooden, but improves things heaps (and looks kewler).
Power: 'Adequate', but not huge. The wheel-lofting torque hit that starts at around 3k rpm is nice, and I still miss it. Unfortunately, there's not much you can do to liberate more than a couple of HP without spending HUGE money on cams, pistons, etc. In any case, if by chance you did achieve Ducati-esque power levels, the bike wouldn't be reliable any more, as the crankcases can't handle more than about 125hp before self-destructing.

[NordieBoy]

So...
You're not looking at a VTR250 then.

[Fatjim]

Not true - there is no "new CCT"; they are all the same, regardless of whether the dot is red, pink, purple, or green. You have a choice of replacing them every couple of years, or ditching them for APE CCTs, or converting them to manual. If you don't warm the bike up by leaving it idling on the sidestand, and don't use engine braking excessively, they'll last longer. If you buy APE CCTs, don't get them from the local dealer - he adds 100% just for ordering them from the US for you.

Anecdotal evidence shows the newer CCT's are less prone to fail, and since Honda made no changes to the internals of the engines in regard to this problem then its a safe assumption to assume they improved the quality of the spring in the newer ones. Very rare to hear of a VTR shitting a cct nowadays. ( I hope mine don't fail this week and make me look like a dipshit).



Suspension: Too cheap. I actually thought my stock suspension was pretty good compared to other Hondas I've owned, but it's not set up right WRT spring and damping rates. Replacement front springs and a new rear shock are the go.

Way over compression damped, not recommended by those in the know not to do just the springs.



Comfort: The early models (pre-2001?) have handlebars that are too low for around town, and the seat is not designed for humans. Baboons, perhaps?

Personal choice, since VTR's seem to riden by old fat bastards then this tends to be true.



Gearing: They're geared WAAAAY too high, with the engine turning over at only 2600 at 100km/h. Fit a larger rear sprocket/smaller front sprocket and up the smiles/miles ratio heaps.


Shit mate, what size rear tyre was it running, something of a large farming vehicle? ~3,400 RPM at 100k in top, ~4,100RPM at 120k


Looks: Not much you can do about those, but the VTR is one ugly mofo. An aftermarket bellypan or fairing lower helps. Then again, you can't see how it looks when you're sitting on it.
Fuel consumption: I was lucky to get 30mpg from mine, or about 150km/h per tankful. Just one of those things, I guess. Just keep an eye on the mileage, because when those 48mm carbs suck the dredges from the tank VERY fast.


Fuel millage varies, but an 2001+ model will get between 200 and 240k before the light comes on, expect another 40k+ from that. Some say more than 240k, but their (ok they're) the exception with a sweetly tuned motor. I've replaced air filters and chains and got about 20% fuel efficiency (and better top speed) out of each.

[NighthawkNZ]

Make sure if you get a VTR that the battery is good in it, we've got one in at work for a full service at the moment and it's up for a new battery :shutup: over $300 for a decent one and $95 for a cheap Chinese one :sick:

I have just replaced my battery... but put a cheaper chinese battery in as I didn't have the spare $300 either <_< :crazy: :blink:

My theory is if I get a couple of years out of the cheaper one then ok or 4 years (maybe 5 thats how long the old one was) out of the good one then it still works out cheaper... <_<:shifty:

[vifferman]

Anecdotal evidence shows the newer CCT's are less prone to fail, and since Honda made no changes to the internals of the engines in regard to this problem then its a safe assumption to assume they improved the quality of the spring in the newer ones. Very rare to hear of a VTR shitting a cct nowadays. ( I hope mine don't fail this week and make me look like a dipshit).
The guy in the UK (a Firestorm fanatic and mechanic) I bought my CCTs from had pulled several apart and found them all identical.



Way over compression damped, not recommended by those in the know not to do just the springs.
Fairy Nuff.
I didn't do anything to mine apart from just adjust them, as I couldn't afford it.


Personal choice, since VTR's seem to riden by old fat bastards then this tends to be true.
I'm nearly old, but not so fat.
I found my bars ('97) a bit too low for commuting (which was most of my riding) but OK for the open road. The newer ones are 19mm higher and a slightly different angle.


Shit mate, what size rear tyre was it running, something of a large farming vehicle? ~3,400 RPM at 100k in top, ~4,100RPM at 120k
I suspect the later ones had lower final gearing than the '97s, unless the PO had stuck a smaller rear sprocket on, as 2600rpm@100km/h is what it read, with a 16T countershaft sprocket.



Fuel millage varies, but an 2001+ model will get between 200 and 240k before the light comes on, expect another 40k+ from that. Some say more than 240k, but their (ok they're) the exception with a sweetly tuned motor. I've replaced air filters and chains and got about 20% fuel efficiency (and better top speed) out of each.
Once again, I had a (thrashed) 1997 model, with a Unifilter and customised (read 'bastardised') mufflers, and (supposedly) a Dynojet kit and shimmed mains. The RLOD (Orangey-red LED of Doom) would come on at an indicated 120-130 km (actually 130-140km) and the tank was dry at about 160 or so. And once again, most of my riding was thrashing the bike to work and back on suburban streets.

[Fatjim]

The guy in the UK (a Firestorm fanatic and mechanic) I bought my CCTs from had pulled several apart and found them all identical.


Fairy Nuff.
I didn't do anything to mine apart from just adjust them, as I couldn't afford it.


I'm nearly old, but not so fat.
I found my bars ('97) a bit too low for commuting (which was most of my riding) but OK for the open road. The newer ones are 19mm higher and a slightly different angle.


I suspect the later ones had lower final gearing than the '97s, unless the PO had stuck a smaller rear sprocket on, as 2600rpm@100km/h is what it read, with a 16T countershaft sprocket.



Once again, I had a (thrashed) 1997 model, with a Unifilter and customised (read 'bastardised') mufflers, and (supposedly) a Dynojet kit and shimmed mains. The RLOD (Orangey-red LED of Doom) would come on at an indicated 120-130 km (actually 130-140km) and the tank was dry at about 160 or so. And once again, most of my riding was thrashing the bike to work and back on suburban streets.

The part that fails on the cct is the spring, which I imagine is hard to tell a better tempered one from another with an eyeball, certainly the tension would be the same and thereofor I'd expect the external dimension to be similar if not the same. Also, it generally, in fact pretty much always is the front CCT that fails. It has been speculated by people who know the bike very well that it starves of oil, especially at startup when on the side stand. Its been suggested that starting them vertical ensures better oil splash on the CCT when starting.

The speedo comes off the gearbox I think, therefor the revs to indicated doesn't change regardless of the tyre/gearing, although the revs to actual speed of course does. To my knowledge, the gearing has never changed and I'd be very surprised if it had. I do not remember noticing it on the pre 2001 I rode and I'm sure I would have.

Its funny how the pre 2001 always sem to get really crap millage, but the 2001+ with only a couple more litres in the tank get sooooooo much more. Yours isn't the first quote of around 140-160k I've seen. When I first got the vtr I could get below 200k before RLOD, now I can't get over it :).

[dangerous]

The part that fails on the cct is the spring,

And this is where bloody Honda are a let down... the spring not only can brake but loose tension, ie: it looses its strenth to keep the chain tight... NOW other bike makers use a ratchet system were once the tensioner clicks onto the next tension it cant possibly go backwards... now why the hell cant Honda do that, OH thats right then they would make no money on parts.

[Harry the Barstard]

nother dumb question. What the hell is a CCT?

[Ocean1]

nother dumb question. What the hell is a CCT?

Cross-catharpin trunion.



OK OK, cam chain tensioner.

[Harry the Barstard]

Sweet that clears it up. lol

[Harry the Barstard]

Cross-catharpin trunion.



OK OK, cam chain tensioner.

AHHH, Cheers.:niceone: Shit you dont want that shitting it self. So i take it they get a bit rattly when they get a bit loose?

[Ocean1]

AHHH, Cheers.:niceone: Shit you dont want that shitting it self. So i take it they get a bit rattly when they get a bit loose?

Yup, and on some engines the valve timing changes juuuust enough that the piston hits 'em on the way up. Crunch. Bugger.

Few engines have "issues" with tensioners, I like the ones that are oil pressure loaded with a ratchet/pawl mechanism backing that up.

[dangerous]

AHHH, Cheers.:niceone: Shit you dont want that shitting it self. So i take it they get a bit rattly when they get a bit loose?

Its bit of a wise tail... since the first VTR in 97 the local Honda shop in Chch have only ever had one cct failer... so nont worry about it and if it should let go then all that happens is a loud rattle from the chain, fuk me look at the old XR those cct would loose tension and you could ride the bike till the chain wore its way out the barrel.

[NighthawkNZ]

Its bit of a wise tail... since the first VTR in 97 the local Honda shop in Chch have only ever had one cct failer... so nont worry about it and if it should let go then all that happens is a loud rattle from the chain, fuk me look at the old XR those cct would loose tension and you could ride the bike till the chain wore its way out the barrel.

I've only ever heard of one case when that happened myself. Heck if you are going to be parinoid about every possible little thing that could or may go wrong on any bike then my advise is to start walking.

If you look deep enough I am sure you will find something similar on all bikes that could or might let go or go wrong, or...or...or... If you thrash the crap out of it all the time and do real heavy engine breaking all the time don't do any maintience, kick it spit on and fart in its general direction you have a bigger chance something is going to let go...

Look after it and you won't have any problems...:cool:

[vifferman]

Its bit of a wise tail... since the first VTR in 97 the local Honda shop in Chch have only ever had one cct failer... so nont worry about it and if it should let go then all that happens is a loud rattle from the chain
Nup, sorry Mr D, but you're wrong (incorrect). The PO of my VTR had the CCT fail (it's invariably the front one) and the chain jumped a tooth or two on the cam gear and the piston and valves had a wee bit of "catastrophic interference". Two new valves, two new camchains and four* new tensioners were the result.

fuk me look at the old XR those cct would loose tension and you could ride the bike till the chain wore its way out the barrel.
LOL. My first Honda (CB175) was like that. The camchain had so much 'throw' that it had eaten a huge chunk out of the inside of the crankcase/barrel casting. EVERY Honda I've owned since then has been like that, bar 3: MT250 (two smoke) and two VFRs (gear-driven cams). Honda should give up on camchains and make all their bikes gear-driven cams.


*Two new CCTs, and then the manual ones I replaced the new ones with.

[vifferman]

Few engines have "issues" with tensioners, I like the ones that are oil pressure loaded with a ratchet/pawl mechanism backing that up.
The VTR tensioners (and all other Honda ones) have a clockwork-type spring that slowly advances the plunger as the chain stretches and/or the sliders wear, and a ratchet that backs this up, so they can't loosen up. But (however!) on the VTRs, the spring gets fatigued, and when it breaks there's nothing to stop the plunger backing out. If you replace the mechanism with a screw and locknut (a la APE) it solves that problem.
It's thought that what happens is the long chain throw on the VTR makes for a lot of chain movement. Combine that with lots of engine braking, and poor oiling of the front CCT (it slopes down towards the cylinder barrel, whereas the rear one slopes away, so collects oil), and too much sitting idling on the sidestand warming the engine up (insufficient oil circulation??) and the spring (usually the front one) gets brittle.

The solution is easy: when your Honda starts to get noisy and sound like a chaff cutter (whatever the fook that is), you throw it away and buy another one. :yes:

[Fatjim]

The solution is easy: when your Honda starts to get noisy and sound like a chaff cutter (whatever the fook that is), you throw it away and buy another one. :yes:

What, the cct or the bike?


Its bit of a wise tail... since the first VTR in 97 the local Honda shop in Chch have only ever had one cct failer..

It was a common enough problem, but not so much nowadays. I've heard of one in the last year or so.

If I had a dollar for every time I heard a dealer say, "thats the first time I've seen this" with a dumb look on his face I'd have like lots of money. In fact you can have a lot of fun talking to dealers and asking them quetions like "are the cct's prone to fail on a vtr?", " are gixxers electrics shite?", "is the the '04 ZX10R a flighty beast" and any other common well known problem with their marques.

[Ocean1]

The VTR tensioners (and all other Honda ones) have a clockwork-type spring that slowly advances the plunger as the chain stretches and/or the sliders wear, and a ratchet that backs this up, so they can't loosen up. But (however!) on the VTRs, the spring gets fatigued, and when it breaks there's nothing to stop the plunger backing out. If you replace the mechanism with a screw and locknut (a la APE) it solves that problem.
It's thought that what happens is the long chain throw on the VTR makes for a lot of chain movement. Combine that with lots of engine braking, and poor oiling of the front CCT (it slopes down towards the cylinder barrel, whereas the rear one slopes away, so collects oil), and too much sitting idling on the sidestand warming the engine up (insufficient oil circulation??) and the spring (usually the front one) gets brittle.

The solution is easy: when your Honda starts to get noisy and sound like a chaff cutter (whatever the fook that is), you throw it away and buy another one. :yes:

I take it you mean the ratchet pawl spring rather than the main cct spring?
Can't see a spring with such a light duty breaking from fatigue, (think valve-springs, gazillions of cycles without problems) more likely poor quality control in tempering.

The KLX/DRZ engine's been known to have cct issues, there's an after-market manual version for those too. A mate's one started sounding like a concrete mixer and that turned out to be the fix for it, mine seems to be fine.

[dangerous]

If I had a dollar for every time I heard a dealer say, "thats the first time I've seen this" with a dumb look on his face I'd have like lots of money.
Yip, I was thinking the same, in fact to be honest I dont believe being only 1 of the 2 Honda red carpet dealers in the south Is that in 10 yrs only 1 cct has been in for repair...