Anti dive faulty in a 83 XJ750

[JMemonic]

I bought a 1983 XJ750 the other day and as is the norm for me I started on a fluid change in the process of bleeding the brakes one of the bleed nipples broke of the Anti dive system so out came the easy outs and as seems to be the case with these things the problems got worse when the easy out broke.

I dismantled the system and discovered the section that provides the force from the brake pressure is seized and not moving thus non functional, short of a full rebuild of this assembly it seems that there is no reason why I could not bypass this assembly on both sides and block off the inlet pipe with a standard bolt to save what is left of the internals until I can either rebuilt or replace these assembly's.

What I am wondering does anyone have any experience with these systems and either rebuilding them or bypassing/disabling them? And will this work?

[The Pastor]

hey dude

I had a kawasaki 86 gpz 1000rx had the anti dive valve system on the front forks.

They were leaking so I asked around and was told it is 100% safe to bypass the system as even when it was working they didnt really do a hell of alot. I disconnected it and didnt notice any ill effects or anything.

I'd run it past somone who knows the bike first though.

[Pussy]

Robert Taylor has experience on these bikes, and I believe a few clues on suspension as well (sorry, RT!!). May be worth asking him

[Robert Taylor]

I bought a 1983 XJ750 the other day and as is the norm for me I started on a fluid change in the process of bleeding the brakes one of the bleed nipples broke of the Anti dive system so out came the easy outs and as seems to be the case with these things the problems got worse when the easy out broke.

I dismantled the system and discovered the section that provides the force from the brake pressure is seized and not moving thus non functional, short of a full rebuild of this assembly it seems that there is no reason why I could not bypass this assembly on both sides and block off the inlet pipe with a standard bolt to save what is left of the internals until I can either rebuilt or replace these assembly's.

What I am wondering does anyone have any experience with these systems and either rebuilding them or bypassing/disabling them? And will this work?


Antidive was always a rather optimistic marketing term, a more apt name would have been ''slightly less abrupt dive''. The very best money you could ever spend on these forks is to fit emulators, this effectively bypasses "' that unfortunate period in history'' and makes the forks much much more controlled anyway.If you also negate the need to move brake fluid to move the ''slow dive'' plungers you will also score a ''shorter'' brake lever throw.

[JMemonic]

Thanks for the info folks, I will bypass this system for now.

Robert at some stage could you PM me some cheap options if you have any available, I do not intend to spend too much on this bike it is just a fill in and as it is the chrome is a tad shabby at the top end of the stroke so I suspect it needs a new set of legs.

[Robert Taylor]

Thanks for the info folks, I will bypass this system for now.

Robert at some stage could you PM me some cheap options if you have any available, I do not intend to spend too much on this bike it is just a fill in and as it is the chrome is a tad shabby at the top end of the stroke so I suspect it needs a new set of legs.

As long as the seals never reach that part of the legs you will be okay, if you achieve better hydraulic control that will minimise that possibility any further. Emulators will help that, but of course you are on the spot and best able to judge what must absolutely be the first priority