Hitcher
10th October 2004, 19:09
Day 4, Tuesday: Punakaiki – Greymouth – Stillwater – Lake Brunner – Arthurs Pass – Christchurch
<< Part I (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php?t=5768)
We awoke to find that it had rained heavily overnight and that our bikes required a towelling before departure.
The day was overcast but calm, the sea mist adding to a moodiness that typifies the West Coast. Reaching Greymouth, the day was brightening, so we stopped for food and fuel.
We had a couple of options for departure, and decided to ride up the Grey valley through Dobson and head back inland at Stillwater. This route follows the midland railway line. The run from Stillwater to Moana (on the shores of Lake Brunner) is a well-kept bikers’ secret. Some nice long well-surfaced straights and some beautiful corners. Apart from an occasional tour bus going the opposite direction, there was no traffic. This is a scenic farming valley and no shorter distance-wise than taking the “main” route from Greymouth to Christchurch via Kumara. It has the added benefit of eliminating two very tricky road/rail bridges – the scene of many-a-spilt biker!
The Lake Brunner road rejoins Highway 73 just before Jacksons. From there the day brightened and continued to improve as we approached the Arthurs Pass summit. Again this is a spectacularly scenic ride, framed by alpine grandeur that had been recently refreshed by snow.
Our descent from Arthurs Pass revealed the most perfect day imaginable. Not a cloud in the sky, not a breath of wind, and a sky of purest blue framed by snow-capped mountain peaks. OK, let’s stop for photos!
It must have been the downhillness, because the bikes verily flew down to Sheffield. There are some wonderful perfect-radius corners on this stretch of road. Some signposted 65kmh but holding few fears at double that. Mr Metzeler makes a great tyre that, by the time we reached Sheffield, had had both elephants on both sides introduced to the Canterbury coarse chip.
It was 22o in Sheffield. A bit of a shock, as we were more than a bit overdressed for such conditions! We stopped at the Darfield tearooms for coffee and home baking and also took the opportunity to peal off some layers.
Leaving Darfield we encountered our first road-borne member of the constabulary on this trip. He wagged a knowing finger at us as we went past. What a nice man!
After securing some digs in Christchurch, it was time for another two-up sightseeing visit. There was enough of the afternoon left for a quick look around Eric Wood Motorcycles prior to heading off up the hill past the Sign of the Fat-arsed Chicken and down to Lyttelton. The sun was setting on the hills behind Diamond Harbour. Spectacular! We rode through Lyttelton and on to Sumner, out to the New Brighton Pier and then back into town for some dinner.
Day 5, Wednesday: Christchurch – Akaroa – Christchurch
A reason for the timing of this South Island Spectacular was family. Mrs H’s parents (in Ashburton) were celebrating their 50th wedding anniversary and a niece was having her 21st the following day (in Dunedin). So a bit of last minute shopping was required, particularly by myself who had left home without packing a decent pair of pants and a shirt, as you do!
We romped into town first thing-ish (by our on-holiday standards) and did the business. Returning to the motel to drop stuff off and release an impatient Marauder from its moorings, we set off in search of highway.
Ah, the road to Akaroa (Christchurch readers will gloatingly and smugly know to what I refer)! However today was bloody freezing and blowing a strong southerly gale. Undeterred we made our pilgrimage to one of our most favourite places. Once the sun came out, which it did infrequently, things warmed up somewhat. But the strength of the wind ruled out our plans to circuit the crater rim road, and back we went the way we had come.
Akaroa is a tourist Mecca where a jolly fine cup of coffee can be had. Ours were particularly enjoyed, given the (lack of) temperature outside.
Returning to Christchurch, we were drawn as if by magic to Eric Wood Motorcycles. How nice it is to find a place of motorcycle purveyance where staff have an interest in customer service! We inspected their wares and were offered rides on demo bikes. We declined, given the parlous state of Christchurch traffic – particular approaching “rush” hour. It was bad enough on rides we knew well without trying something unfamiliar.
The traffic in Christchurch is insane. Nobody in that fair southern city works – they just drive around all day in their cars and Fendalton tractors! Well, that’s what it feels like…
I purchased a new jacket at Woods. And well pleased with it I am. Mrs H was tempted to take their Moto Guzzi Breva demo for a fang. My eyes were drawn to the Aprilia Caponord (Hmmm, nice seat) and the spectacularly fascinating Yamaha GTS1000 (see the latest Motomart for a Dave Britten review of this bike).
Returning to the motel, we parked up and became pedestrians for the balance of the day.
Day 6, Thursday: Christchurch – Lincoln – Leeston – Methven – Ashburton
Where possible on our travels, we endeavour to avoid the main routes – particularly when they are straight, flat and boring. Hence today’s somewhat circuitous route from Christchurch to Ashburton.
The countryside on this side of SH1 is scenic and increasingly littered with dairy cows as, dear readers, is the whole of the South Island. I remember my first trip to the South about 30 years ago where you could drive all day and most of the next without seeing an udder anywhere. Now they are ubiquitous and placing growing pressure on scarce water resources.
We were, however, surprised to see Joe Law in a red Commodore imparting justice to a reprobate Mitsubishi L300 van. Be careful on Canterbury back roads!
Returning to SH1 briefly to cross the Rakaia river, we almost immediately hung a right and headed up to Methven via Barrhill and Highbank. Mrs H took the lead here and set an extremely brisk pace! There was no dust whatsoever atop the Marauder’s speedo needle by the time we reached Methven.
It was late morning on a day Mt Hutt was in full swing, so the town was mostly deserted. Good coffee can be had in most South Island centres on tourist routes and Methven is no exception.
We arrived in Ashburton to be greeted fondly by Mrs H’s parents and our steeds were magnificently stabled for the first time on this trip.
Part III >> (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php?t=5790)
<< Part I (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php?t=5768)
We awoke to find that it had rained heavily overnight and that our bikes required a towelling before departure.
The day was overcast but calm, the sea mist adding to a moodiness that typifies the West Coast. Reaching Greymouth, the day was brightening, so we stopped for food and fuel.
We had a couple of options for departure, and decided to ride up the Grey valley through Dobson and head back inland at Stillwater. This route follows the midland railway line. The run from Stillwater to Moana (on the shores of Lake Brunner) is a well-kept bikers’ secret. Some nice long well-surfaced straights and some beautiful corners. Apart from an occasional tour bus going the opposite direction, there was no traffic. This is a scenic farming valley and no shorter distance-wise than taking the “main” route from Greymouth to Christchurch via Kumara. It has the added benefit of eliminating two very tricky road/rail bridges – the scene of many-a-spilt biker!
The Lake Brunner road rejoins Highway 73 just before Jacksons. From there the day brightened and continued to improve as we approached the Arthurs Pass summit. Again this is a spectacularly scenic ride, framed by alpine grandeur that had been recently refreshed by snow.
Our descent from Arthurs Pass revealed the most perfect day imaginable. Not a cloud in the sky, not a breath of wind, and a sky of purest blue framed by snow-capped mountain peaks. OK, let’s stop for photos!
It must have been the downhillness, because the bikes verily flew down to Sheffield. There are some wonderful perfect-radius corners on this stretch of road. Some signposted 65kmh but holding few fears at double that. Mr Metzeler makes a great tyre that, by the time we reached Sheffield, had had both elephants on both sides introduced to the Canterbury coarse chip.
It was 22o in Sheffield. A bit of a shock, as we were more than a bit overdressed for such conditions! We stopped at the Darfield tearooms for coffee and home baking and also took the opportunity to peal off some layers.
Leaving Darfield we encountered our first road-borne member of the constabulary on this trip. He wagged a knowing finger at us as we went past. What a nice man!
After securing some digs in Christchurch, it was time for another two-up sightseeing visit. There was enough of the afternoon left for a quick look around Eric Wood Motorcycles prior to heading off up the hill past the Sign of the Fat-arsed Chicken and down to Lyttelton. The sun was setting on the hills behind Diamond Harbour. Spectacular! We rode through Lyttelton and on to Sumner, out to the New Brighton Pier and then back into town for some dinner.
Day 5, Wednesday: Christchurch – Akaroa – Christchurch
A reason for the timing of this South Island Spectacular was family. Mrs H’s parents (in Ashburton) were celebrating their 50th wedding anniversary and a niece was having her 21st the following day (in Dunedin). So a bit of last minute shopping was required, particularly by myself who had left home without packing a decent pair of pants and a shirt, as you do!
We romped into town first thing-ish (by our on-holiday standards) and did the business. Returning to the motel to drop stuff off and release an impatient Marauder from its moorings, we set off in search of highway.
Ah, the road to Akaroa (Christchurch readers will gloatingly and smugly know to what I refer)! However today was bloody freezing and blowing a strong southerly gale. Undeterred we made our pilgrimage to one of our most favourite places. Once the sun came out, which it did infrequently, things warmed up somewhat. But the strength of the wind ruled out our plans to circuit the crater rim road, and back we went the way we had come.
Akaroa is a tourist Mecca where a jolly fine cup of coffee can be had. Ours were particularly enjoyed, given the (lack of) temperature outside.
Returning to Christchurch, we were drawn as if by magic to Eric Wood Motorcycles. How nice it is to find a place of motorcycle purveyance where staff have an interest in customer service! We inspected their wares and were offered rides on demo bikes. We declined, given the parlous state of Christchurch traffic – particular approaching “rush” hour. It was bad enough on rides we knew well without trying something unfamiliar.
The traffic in Christchurch is insane. Nobody in that fair southern city works – they just drive around all day in their cars and Fendalton tractors! Well, that’s what it feels like…
I purchased a new jacket at Woods. And well pleased with it I am. Mrs H was tempted to take their Moto Guzzi Breva demo for a fang. My eyes were drawn to the Aprilia Caponord (Hmmm, nice seat) and the spectacularly fascinating Yamaha GTS1000 (see the latest Motomart for a Dave Britten review of this bike).
Returning to the motel, we parked up and became pedestrians for the balance of the day.
Day 6, Thursday: Christchurch – Lincoln – Leeston – Methven – Ashburton
Where possible on our travels, we endeavour to avoid the main routes – particularly when they are straight, flat and boring. Hence today’s somewhat circuitous route from Christchurch to Ashburton.
The countryside on this side of SH1 is scenic and increasingly littered with dairy cows as, dear readers, is the whole of the South Island. I remember my first trip to the South about 30 years ago where you could drive all day and most of the next without seeing an udder anywhere. Now they are ubiquitous and placing growing pressure on scarce water resources.
We were, however, surprised to see Joe Law in a red Commodore imparting justice to a reprobate Mitsubishi L300 van. Be careful on Canterbury back roads!
Returning to SH1 briefly to cross the Rakaia river, we almost immediately hung a right and headed up to Methven via Barrhill and Highbank. Mrs H took the lead here and set an extremely brisk pace! There was no dust whatsoever atop the Marauder’s speedo needle by the time we reached Methven.
It was late morning on a day Mt Hutt was in full swing, so the town was mostly deserted. Good coffee can be had in most South Island centres on tourist routes and Methven is no exception.
We arrived in Ashburton to be greeted fondly by Mrs H’s parents and our steeds were magnificently stabled for the first time on this trip.
Part III >> (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php?t=5790)