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View Full Version : South Island trip dairy: Part 4



Hitcher
12th October 2004, 19:03
Day 10, Monday: Dunedin – Middlemarch – Ranfurly – Alexandra

<< Part III (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php?t=5790)

Despite the forecast, the day dawned fine and calm. However by the time we were ready to depart the weather had changed for the worst, ahead of the forecast southerly front. So we paced up and down for about an hour deciding whether to stay another day with Mrs H’s brother and his partner, or brave the elements. At about 11:00am the day brightened, the top of Mt Cargill appeared and we decided to make a move.

We decided to take a bit of a jaunt around the edge of the Dunedin harbour to Portobello. Although it wasn’t raining, it was blowing a gale and the road was in places covered with rocks washed onto it by the morning’s rain. Dunedin’s harbour is picturesque even in bad weather. The sunshine proved short-lived and by the time we had reached Portobello the rain had returned with a vengeance. Riding back into the teeth of this southerly with its driving squalls wasn’t particularly pleasant but we decided to press on.

The showers continued until we began our ascent off the Taieri plans just out of Outram. The road was dry by Lee Stream school, although the southerly was bitterly cold. Thank goodness for good riding apparel and Icebreaker!

Otago bikers should be able to validate my assessment of the wonders of this stretch of road from Outram to Middlemarch. It is fantastic! A good surface, some steep ascents and descents with a good mix of technical and easier corners. For the most part you get a good look ahead through the twisty bits, giving you a chance to pick your line well in advance. Despite the wind and cold, I would have happily returned to Outram and repeated the experience. The scenery too is stunning, riding amongst the schist escarpments. I imagine that this is a popular weekend ride for Dunedin’s biker community.

We stopped at the café in Middlemarch for coffee and hot food. Both were excellent and had the desired warming effect.

We continued onwards, striking another couple of showers on our ride to the “pig route”. Again this is a great motorcycle road. The scenery too is amazing, as is the range of historic settlements and buildings dating back to the mid-19th century gold rush that first brought settlers to this area.

The day darkened markedly from Kyeburn until Omakau, where we again stopped for a hot caffeineated beverage. We had considered a detour into St Bathans but the unsealed road was littered with puddles and mud and, as mentioned in earlier posts, we don’t do no gravel!

The proprietors of the Omakau pub made us most welcome. A young couple from Christchurch have recently purchased this establishment and are intent on making this venture a success. The hotel has accommodation in house and back-packers’ quarters at the rear. The Central Otago Rail Trail follows the old rail bed from its current terminus at Middlemarch to its former end at Alexandra. It is managed by a trust and promoted widely internationally. This has proven very successful and popular with foreign mountain bikers and hikers. The Omakau pub is a beneficiary of this enterprise.

Omakau signalled the end of the bad weather for our vacation. We then continued on to our planned destination, Alexandra. After securing some accommodation for the evening, we went for a scenic tour – firstly to the Clyde Dam and then around the town and its immediate environs.

It had been at least 10 years since we had last visited Alexandra and we were amazed by the extent of grape plantings – mostly pinot noir – that had taken place in recent years. There must by about 1,000 acres or more! Although some Central Otago vineyards make a decent pinot, this is a significant speculative venture for investors in a wine variety that the world at large is unaware of and does not drink. Good luck to them!

We dined at Olivers in the old Clyde township. Simply superb!

Day 11, Tuesday: Alexandra – Cromwell – Queenstown – Glenorchy – Arrowtown – Cardrona – Wanaka – Cromwell – Alexandra

Today was a “round the block” day, designed to take in some of our favourite biking roads discovered on our last visit in March and some new tarmac, in the form of the Crown Range Road.

This whole circuit is visually breathtaking and the roads simply amazing for bikers. Rather than a km-by-km breakdown, I’ll give some highlights:

The run up Lake Dunstan from Alexandra to Cromwell. Fast and with great views of the lakes and the barren mountains that confine it.

The view of Cromwell and the valley that opens up beyond it.

The Kawarau Gorge. A superb fast, twisty stretch of highway, albeit full of tour buses, rental Corollas and campervans, that opens into the spectacular Gibbston Valley – now filled with vineyards.

The Glenorchy Road. 44km of “died and gone to motorcycle heaven” and than the same in reverse. This would rank a close second to the Milford Road for the title of Best No-Exit Motorcycle Road in New Zealand!

Arrowtown. What a setting, and the trees were starting to bud up, some breaking into spring colour.

The Crown Range Road. A first for us. The first part of the ascent from Arrowtown comprises a series of switchbacks with great views of Arrowtown (if you must take your eyes from the road). The ascent then continues to wind up to and beyond the snowline through a rugged mountain pass, the views back towards Queenstown becoming increasingly breathtaking at every turn. From the summit the road descents steeply through some tight windy corners until the Cardrona village. From there the run to Wanaka is only slightly downhill on a gently windy road. I imagine that this latter stage could be taken at some speed on a bike, but afternoon ski traffic returning to Wanaka and some bike-swallowing potholes put concentration and caution to the fore.

The Wanaka to Cromwell road. A very fast stretch of highway with some nice big sweeping corners. Again views of Lake Dunstan and the Dunstan mountains beyond and, on the other side of the road the Pisa Range and the Garvie Mountains beyond. In the late afternoon light this ride was very “Graham Sydney”.

We returned to Alexandra eager for more!

Part V >> (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php?t=5850)

Ghost Lemur
12th October 2004, 20:17
Yet another fantastic installment Mr H.

Eagerly awaiting the next.

LB
13th October 2004, 04:06
.

Wonderful write-up Mr H. I was mentally on those roads with you guys as I read your prose. The Middlemarch road is great, and the Crown Range....

Looking fwd to #5.

As an aside: I can't seem to find the photos.....I had a squizz at the gallery but couldn't see them.

PS: I've just realised I've been reading your dairy, not your diary!! (Not often one catches you out like that Mr H, or was it a deliberate mistake to see who noticed?)
.

Hitcher
13th October 2004, 08:29
PS: I've just realised I've been reading your dairy, not your diary!! (Not often one catches you out like that Mr H, or was it a deliberate mistake to see who noticed?)
Of course it was!! (Yeah, right...)
The photos should show up in the general gallery as new postings by Hitcher (at least that's how I found them).

vifferman
13th October 2004, 08:43
The photos should show up in the general gallery as new postings by Hitcher (at least that's how I found them).Perhaps it would have been better to put them under your own gallery? (Easier to find).
Great write-up, by the way. :niceone: Makes me eager to return to the South Island and do some more riding, as my riding while living there (apart from Picton to Christchurch and return) was confined to around Banks Peninsula.
Was the Crown Range road gritty? The last time I drove it was in July, and it was very gritty then (needed to be). I don't know that I'd be brave enough to travel it by bike anywhere near winter... Kudos to you, Sir.

Hitcher
13th October 2004, 08:44
Perhaps it would have been better to put them under your own gallery? (Easier to find).
Great write-up, by the way. :niceone: Makes me eager to return to the South Island and do some more riding, as my riding while living there (apart from Picton to Christchurch and return) was confined to around Banks Peninsula.
Was the Crown Range road gritty? The last time I drove it was in July, and it was very gritty then (needed to be). I don't know that I'd be brave enough to travel it by bike anywhere near winter... Kudos to you, Sir.
No, the Crown Range road was remarkably devoid of grit, particularly given that at the summit the road was like a black ribbon through a field of white. The worst grit is coming up in a future instalment!

Yeah, couldn't figure out how to make my own gallery...

SpankMe
13th October 2004, 10:03
Yeah, couldn't figure out how to make my own gallery...

In the gallery if you are in "User Mode" go to "Admin Mode" using the link on the left.
You should then see three buttons along the top. Click "Create/order my albums".
In the Album manager, hit the "new"button.
A new album should appear called "new album"
To change this name, highlight the "new album", then enter the new name in the field below.
Then hit the "Apply modifications" button.

Hitcher
13th October 2004, 13:11
In the gallery if you are in "User Mode" go to "Admin Mode" using the link on the left.
You should then see three buttons along the top. Click "Create/order my albums".
In the Album manager, hit the "new"button.
A new album should appear called "new album"
To change this name, highlight the "new album", then enter the new name in the field below.
Then hit the "Apply modifications" button.
Roger that! Thanks.

vifferman
13th October 2004, 13:14
Roger that! Thanks.Yes Roger Wilco.
Over and out.

Ten-Four, good buddy.
Affirmative.
Copy that. :beer: