Tire Pressure Advice

[hang0ver]

Hi,

I'm wondering if anyone can give me advice on suitable Tire pressures for my recently acquired FZR...

With fuel it comes to about 180kg's plus 75kg for me. It's being ridden on the road.

I don't have a manual for it, yet...

I understand that fine tuning comes down to how you feel and ride, but if someone could give me some figures to start on that would be great.

Cheers,

_-H-_

[Pwalo]

Most sport type tyres run 36 rear 33 front. This is a guide only. Just ring your nearest shop and ask them for advice.

[idleidolidyll]

yes, it does come down to your riding style and the feel of the bike.

the pressures noted above are a good start point. one shop i know often says 40lb in the rear; bollocks to that i say! Too much for my kind of riding (hard in the bends with lots of power coming out).

However, if you're commuting, 40psi might be fine and would probably get you better milage (tyres and fuel)

As a reference (hard riding but not outright speed), I use 28-30psi front and 32-34 rear. Softer in the wet and check em all the time. One pressure does NOT suit all weather conditions.

[Finn]

As a reference (hard riding but not outright speed), I use 28-30psi front and 32-34 rear. Softer in the wet and check em all the time.

But you've got a chook chaser.

[idleidolidyll]

the 950 is hardly a chookie mate

BTW; I used only a couple of psi more in my XJR1300

[ManDownUnder]

36 front and rear, 38-40 rear if you go two up.

[merv]

Road bikes I've had (Hondas) specify 36 front 42 rear and they are perfect at those pressures - corner like they are on rails.

[idleidolidyll]

amazing the differences of opinion eh!

the first question i want to ask to get this right is what kind of rider are you?

if you're commuting or not riding hard; run em hard

if you're a hard rider in the switchbacks; run em soft

ask any good racer what tyre pressures they run; i'd bet they give you low numbers

me, i know how to read my tyre after a ride. if it's showing that it was working I leave it at that. If it aint scuffed at all it was too HARD. If it's really roughed up badly and the handling was heavy and vague; it was probably too soft.

point is; YOUR riding style is the important factor and nobody else can honestly offer a valid opinion for you without knowing that

[NordieBoy]

Wow.
I ran 30F 32R and thought I was running high pressures :D

[idleidolidyll]

Wow.
I ran 30F 32R and thought I was running high pressures :D

for a hard charger like yourself it may indeed be nordie

i've run fronts down to 26 and rears at 28.

you've gotta be able to feel what's happening and that's something doffiocult or impossible to explain on the internet

[merv]

As Finn says chook chasers are quite different - my XR runs about 14 both ends, the WR about 10 or less in both, Mrs merv's DR for on road about 26 both.

[idleidolidyll]

As Finn says chook chasers are quite different - my XR runs about 14 both ends, the WR about 10 or less in both,

sure, off road it does

my so called 'chook chaser'is a road bike and was always designed to be a road bike

[hang0ver]

Cheers for the replies guys, opinions are varied, but gives me more food for thought...

I'm commuting on it, but have a long series of twisty corners on the way home to lean into... Anyways I'm not riding hard, so firmer, rather then softer is probably the go.

_-H-_

[Ocean1]

As Finn says chook chasers are quite different - my XR runs about 14 both ends, the WR about 10 or less in both, Mrs merv's DR for on road about 26 both.

Yup. I get the KLX down as far as 8psi on the back. Tubes are near solid though...

[cowboyz]

my Pilot Road 2 has 42psi stamped on the side of it so that is what I run.

[Ocean1]

my Pilot Road 2 has 42psi stamped on the side of it so that is what I run.

Now that I needed to know. You figure that'd change for lighter or heavier bikes?

[merv]

my so called 'chook chaser'is a road bike and was always designed to be a road bike

Yeah and it would have road bike rubber on it too, but it is not a typical road bike.

The point we are all making here I guess is horses for courses - for typical road bike on the road he is best to go with typical pressures that would have been listed in his manual if he had one or on a sticker on the bike if it has one.

OK if you believe this manual http://www.commline.com/FZR/400/MANUAL/FZR400MANUAL.PDF then 28 front 36 rear it should be (that's certainly lower than I'm used to) and I presume it is similar for this 400 no matter whether this is the exact model or not.

[idleidolidyll]

Yeah and it would have road bike rubber on it too, but it is not a typical road bike.

The point we are all making here I guess is horses for courses - for typical road bike on the road he is best to go with typical pressures that would have been listed in his manual if he had one or on a sticker on the bike if it has one.

Yes and no Merv.

Yes if you don't know how to read the tyre and ride feel but no if you can understand how to tell if the tyre is doing the best job.

If you're not sure; read the manual and start from there.

[rufusdion]

i ride my bike hard in the corners and coming out of them.my SV1000 with pilot sports on i run 36 in the front and 40 in the rear. any lower than that my tyres would last about 1000km.

[The Stranger]

This is from the Continental Web site, emphasis is mine.

-------------------------------------------------------------

Advice on tyre pressure
Motorcycle manufacturers always go into the subject of air pressure in great detail in their vehicle manuals. It is possible to find instruction on air pressure for every driving situation. In addition it is usually possible to find a sticker on the vehicle with the necessary information written on it.

The manufacturers make a distinction between load (riding solo or with a pillion passenger, with or without luggage) and speed (on secondary roads or motor-ways).

Naturally in such a short fitment guide it is not possible to give the necessary tyre pressure details for every motorbike and because of this we refer you to the recommendations of the motorcycle manufacturers.

From years of experience we are aware that motorcyclists sometimes ride on tyres for which the air pressure is not suited to the driving conditions. We do however advise that you always ride at the highest pressure level given in the manual.

Some amount of comfort will be lost, but that loss will be outweighed by improved safety. In addition the rolling resistance will be lower which will help to save fuel.

Incorrect inflation pressure reduces the service life and may have a negative influence on the riding characteristics of the motorcycle.

Under-inflated tyres flex excessively, easily overheat and can suffer damage. Over-inflation can cause uneven wear. Improper inflation, either too high or too low, can adversely affect overall handling and ride quality.

Tyre pressure will be measured when the tyres are cold. During riding the tyre becomes warm and the tyre pressure is there-fore higher (up to 0,5 bar). This excess pressure should not be let off as it will automatically be balanced out as the tyre cools down again.

If you possess no tyre pressure recommendations for your motorcycle follow air pressure recommendations shown in the Continental fitment guide.

As a rule the tyre pressure for motorway riding should be 0.2 bar higher. The same also applies to a bike with a fully laden rear axle.

[cowboyz]

Now that I needed to know. You figure that'd change for lighter or heavier bikes?

I wouldnt think it would change a whole lot. Maybe a couple of psi for the load.

just thinking about it logically if you lower the pressure then the tyre will have more sideways movement causing more wear.

At the end of the day there are people who are paid shitloads more than me to know their stuff and they make the tyres and test the tyres and then put their thoughts on the side of the tyre. They are probably right.

[idleidolidyll]

i ride my bike hard in the corners and coming out of them.my SV1000 with pilot sports on i run 36 in the front and 40 in the rear. any lower than that my tyres would last about 1000km.

really?

my KTM 950 is supposed to be torquey and I get about 4000km outta road tyres

i guess 'hard in the corners and coming out of them' is a subjective thing.

mind you, most of the good racers i've asked have suggested low numbers

more power to you and keep the black bits facing to hell

[idleidolidyll]

I wouldnt think it would change a whole lot. Maybe a couple of psi for the load.

just thinking about it logically if you lower the pressure then the tyre will have more sideways movement causing more wear.

At the end of the day there are people who are paid shitloads more than me to know their stuff and they make the tyres and test the tyres and then put their thoughts on the side of the tyre. They are probably right.

it's kinda like this:

low pressures will make the tread squirm more which makes them heat up more and makes them stickier. Low pressures also give a larger contact patch on the road.

of course too low and you're riding on squirmy flat tyres so you have to find a happy medium that suits your ability and bike.

i ride with the lowest pressures that still have positive control on the road. i'm not really concerned with tyre wear

[idleidolidyll]

stranger: "We do however advise that you always ride at the highest pressure level given in the manual.

Some amount of comfort will be lost, but that loss will be outweighed by improved safety."

amazing! i'd never recommend always riding at the highest pressure in the manual and i disagree that this is at all the safest pressure (particularly on cold wet days).

in my opinion the safest pressure is the one that gives the most grip without losing stability. i usually find this to be quite a bit lower than the highest pressure in the manual but i change my tyre pressures for every ride depending on the weather and road conditions as well as on what kind of riding i'm gonna do......................and yes, i worked in a bike shop (twice) and raced bikes too.

[merv]

If you're not sure; read the manual and start from there.

Yep and I've given this link found on the Lotsa Manuals thread http://www.commline.com/FZR/400/MANUAL/FZR400MANUAL.PDF

Start with recommended numbers and try it, then go up or down from there.

[idleidolidyll]

Yep and I've given this link found on the Lotsa Manuals thread http://www.commline.com/FZR/400/MANUAL/FZR400MANUAL.PDF

Start with recommended numbers and try it, then go up or down from there.

indeed.

my last fat yamaha manual suggested 34/36 one up and 36/38 2 up.

my ktm suggests relatively low pressures but i can't remember exactly what; i think it was 30/32

yammy was a 235kg behemoth and the ktm is supposed to be 192kg (now about 12kg lighter)

same size tyres too

[merv]

'tards are a bit different though - longer travel suspension, different geometry, different riding style, looking to drift them a bit and not mind if they get loose.

[idleidolidyll]

'tards are a bit different though - longer travel suspension, different geometry, different riding style, looking to drift them a bit and not mind if they get loose.

yep, i'd never have run the yammyharhar that low; it would have squirmed the tyres right off the rims

[The Stranger]

stranger: "We do however advise that you always ride at the highest pressure level given in the manual.

Some amount of comfort will be lost, but that loss will be outweighed by improved safety."

amazing! i'd never recommend always riding at the highest pressure in the manual and i disagree that this is at all the safest pressure (particularly on cold wet days).

in my opinion the safest pressure is the one that gives the most grip without losing stability. i usually find this to be quite a bit lower than the highest pressure in the manual but i change my tyre pressures for every ride depending on the weather and road conditions as well as on what kind of riding i'm gonna do......................and yes, i worked in a bike shop (twice) and raced bikes too.

I hear ya, main reason I posted it was I felt it was at odds with common wisdom. However they do make damn good tyres and should know a little bit about the subject at hand.

[idleidolidyll]

they also say don't ride on the road with slicks but i've proven to myself that that is nonsense.

i've never liked michelins; i could never feel them like other tyres

[idleidolidyll]

continentals?

but we live on some islands! they CAN'T be any good here!

[The Stranger]

they also say don't ride on the road with slicks but i've proven to myself that that is nonsense.

i've never liked michelins; i could never feel them like other tyres

Are you foaming again idle?
We weren't talking about grooved slicks.
What does your dislike for michelins have to do with Continental tyres?

[idleidolidyll]

it was just a comment, i DON'T like michelins, and when did i suggest we were discussing slicks?

knock the chip off your shoulder son

[merv]

Idle you wouldn't be one-eyed by any chance would you?

[Mom]

Are you foaming again idle?
We weren't talking about grooved slicks.
What does your dislike for michelins have to do with Continental tyres?

Yes son what the hell are you on about you should know better than to argue, or even try a reasoned debate with Mr Idle, he is RIGHT about everything in his not so humble opinion!

[idleidolidyll]

Idle you wouldn't be one-eyed by any chance would you?

no mate; you just can't see the one in the back of my head

i like all tyres except those froggy things......sorta. honestly, i could never get the hang of em

[idleidolidyll]

Yes son what the hell are you on about you should know better than to argue, or even try a reasoned debate with Mr Idle, he is RIGHT about everything in his not so humble opinion!

humble?

not me. i'm opinionated and proud of it

i really enjoy that it drags rednecks out of their slimy holes

[Mom]

humble?

not me. i'm opinionated and proud of it

i really enjoy that it drags rednecks out of their slimy holes

No you have me confused with someone else mate... I dont live in a slimey hole........but you are about to be consigned to the slimey hole of........I dont give a shit.......enjoy!!!!

[The Stranger]

it was just a comment, i DON'T like michelins, and when did i suggest we were discussing slicks?


Your previous post maybe.
I actually realise you weren't discussing slicks, rather you were trying to say you know more about tyres than those that design and manufacture them.

[idleidolidyll]

Your previous post maybe.
I actually realise you weren't discussing slicks, rather you were trying to say you know more about tyres than those that design and manufacture them.

no, unlike others i was trying to get across the idea that it all depends on how you ride, what the conditions are and what the bike is.

to accept one pressure setting for all variables is sheer lunacy but you go ahead and do so if you're so inclined

while you're at it, go ask the fast guys at the track one day what pressures they ride on; i bet they don't follow continentals philosophy either

[cowboyz]

ok. I thought we were talking about tyre pressures for road bike on the road.

[NordieBoy]

for a hard charger like yourself it may indeed be nordie

i've run fronts down to 26 and rears at 28.

you've gotta be able to feel what's happening and that's something doffiocult or impossible to explain on the internet

Looking back I'd have been better off with another 4psi front and rear (esp. the rear) to make it last.

A 150x70x17 TKC80 isn't cheap.

At the moment it's got a Mich Pilot Sport on the front and I don't know what is on the back.

[idleidolidyll]

Looking back I'd have been better off with another 4psi front and rear (esp. the rear) to make it last.

A 150x70x17 TKC80 isn't cheap.

At the moment it's got a Mich Pilot Sport on the front and I don't know what is on the back.

yeah, with the exorbitant prices motorcyclists have to pay for rubber it is often a choice between economy and grip.

buying second hand race tyres starts to make a lot of sense if you want to run soft and sticky. my last set of used grooved slicks lasted as long as any set of new tyres i've had and cost about $200 fitted. I recently picked up 2 more sets for $100 in total.

[cowboyz]

yeah. been looking at second hand race tyres. Put a brand new pilot road2 on the back for $330 and got a Racetec front second hand for $70 and $32.50 to put it on the bike. Seems to be doing the job. Have to save some money for fuel somewhere.

[idleidolidyll]

anyone know what the fine is for running slicks/race tyres on the road? the ones marked "not for highway use"

[hang0ver]

Thanks guys, this is all good stuff...

_-H-_

[Pancakes]

ok. I thought we were talking about tyre pressures for road bike on the road.

Amen brother... back to the topic...


I run 29f and 32r. In my own experience lower and they feel squiggly when riding and make me less confident in them, higher than that and they feel fine and faster but have run wider in the same corners then with less pressure making me think they both had less traction. Mine is only a 250 but a heavy one.


anyone know what the fine is for running slicks/race tyres on the road? the ones marked "not for highway use"

I'd guess that if your bike isn't in warrantable state (you can argue it's safer till your ass falls off, they won't give a shit) so your bike has no WOF and thats $400 AFAIK.

[cowboyz]

anyone know what the fine is for running slicks/race tyres on the road? the ones marked "not for highway use"


Amen brother... back to the topic...


I run 29f and 32r. In my own experience lower and they feel squiggly when riding and make me less confident in them, higher than that and they feel fine and faster but have run wider in the same corners then with less pressure making me think they both had less traction. Mine is only a 250 but a heavy one.



I'd guess that if your bike isn't in warrantable state (you can argue it's safer till your ass falls off, they won't give a shit) so your bike has no WOF and thats $400 AFAIK.

Would be thinking unwarrentable condition. Last year I got pulled over for speeding and my rear tyre was due for replacement. I hadnt gotten round to it and knew it was running low but was just commuting at the time so wasnt in any real rush. Ms Police took offence to the tyre and booked me $150 for "lack of tread on tyre"

[Ragingrob]

Hey my GN has continental tyres and they have on them 42psi...on both...is this the pressure recommended for both?

[merv]

Hey my GN has continental tyres and they have on them 42psi...on both...is this the pressure recommended for both?

Probably recommended max pressure coz you wouldn't want that much in your front tyre.

[Ragingrob]

Probably recommended max pressure coz you wouldn't want that much in your front tyre.

Ok max pressure...so um what would be recommended as normal? 40psi in both?

[merv]

OK where are all the other GN owners that can tell us what the recommended pressures are?

[Pancakes]

Start with 28f, 30r. once your used to that play around in 2psi increments keeping the front less than the back and no less than 4% less. you could go up near the 40's but that'd be getting hard. I wouldn't go higher than 34f/36r.

[Ragingrob]

Alright cheers, someone else has told me 25f, 30-32r. So I'll head to the gas station tomo and have a looksee.

[pritch]

Thanks guys, this is all good stuff...

_-H-_

No it isn't, some of it would appear downright dangerous.

Times have apparently changed, once there was a recommended pressure, if you were going fast you added a couple of psi, if you had luggage add a couple more, fast with luggage and a passenger add another couple.

These days Honda seem to give one set of pressures 36 front and 42 rear. Many people treat this in the nature of a maximum. Seriously it would pay to ask your local dealer for the appropriate pressures for your bike. Bear in mind also that the figures at the gas station pump may have little resemblance to what is actually going into the tyres.

Pressures for the track are lower but these have no relevance to road use whatsoever unless you are travelling at fast track pace all the time in which case good luck. You'll need it.

[Pancakes]

Well I've done 30,000K's over 2 years on 3 different GN's, mainly commuting but lots of open road too and found those pressures to be the most stable. This was with 5 sets of different tyres but the reasonably narrow band I've given there is all I'd use if I owned one again. If I didn't have some basis for what I said I wouldn't have said it.

On the other hand, this is the internet so assuming I had actually owned a GN and that I'm not 10 and using Google might be dangerous.

[Ragingrob]

Haha yeah na I believe you lol I think I'll go for that kinda bandwidth and see how it feels, no idea what they're on at the moment!

[H00dz]

hey guys

cant add much... but good to see the theories out there, it certainly helped my thinking as well Cheers ...:shifty:

[idleidolidyll]

I'd guess that if your bike isn't in warrantable state (you can argue it's safer till your ass falls off, they won't give a shit) so your bike has no WOF and thats $400 AFAIK.

that's about what i thought. the $1000+ I've already saved in expensive road tyres has already paid for that fine and there's no points attached.............

[idleidolidyll]

ok. I thought we were talking about tyre pressures for road bike on the road.

we are. however, race experience is directly relevant to road riding; good road racers have a far greater appreciation of what varying tyre pressures do to the handling and grip of a bike.

anyone who is a hard charger in the corners on our roads is essentially asking the same of their bike and tyres as a racer.

for advice on tyre longevity, we should maybe consult with long distance couriers.........

[cowboyz]

while a talented track rider also can make a talented road rider the 2 are streets apart. On the track you have a whole lot of different issues to deal with than on the road. You have a set of 8-12 corners and the grip on offer is much more than on the road. This is why you get guys who do a few trackdays and get used to the handling of their bike and go out on the road and bin it and breed the all famous "it wasnt my fault" accident. Grip/longevity are on extreme ends of the spectrum and it takes a while to find a balance.
While I have alot of respect for the guys who race (well some of them) I wouldn't consider setting my road bike up as a race bike. Two completely different types of riding. Much the same as if I went to Mansfield I would have a different setup to Taupo.

[pritch]

Katherine Mansfield?

No disrespect, but that isn't helpful.

There has been some dangerous rubbish propounded in this thread.
A search of the many previous threads on this topic would give a more accurate picture.

If someone posts a breath of sanity among a lot of dangerous drivel it is probably preferable that the only reaction isn't a piss take?

(And I haven't had all my dinner vinho tinto yet...)

[merv]

There has been some dangerous rubbish propounded in this thread.

Given you've posted very little on this thread pray tell what you didn't like?

I thought the general theme of recommendations was go for the owners manual type specs as a starting point then try a few psi either way.

[pritch]

Given you've posted very little on this thread pray tell what you didn't like?


The reason I didn't post anything was that it's all been said before in previous threads.

Tyres are designed to perform within certain criteria. Probably most relevant here is temperature range.

Some beginning racers may actually be better off with sports tyres than racing rubber as they can't ride hard enough to get the racing tyres into the temperature range they were designed to operate at. (That'd be me :-)

If you lived somewhere way out in the sticks where the hillbillies live it is just possible that you could get racing rubber up to operating temperature on the road regularly. If you live in a major urban centre though there is no way that can happen and the tyres will not be operating as designed. You'd be far better off with tyres designed for road riding.

Similarly racing rubber isn't designed for use in the rain. If you ride in the rain regularly you'd be better off with Sport Touring rubber which is specifically designed for wet weather use.

The more honest you are with yourself about how you ride, the better service you'll get from your tyres. There's probably more than one rider hereabout who lives a Casey Stoner fantasy and buys the stickiest sports rubber he can get. Because either their location or their ability hardly ever permit them to get the tyres up to operating temperature, they would be better off both as to performance and tyre life if they purchased less sporting tyres.

The tyre companies don't help with some of the florid language used. "Corsa" doesn't actually mean race, and "Qualifiers" are not qualifying tyres.

Using race rubber on the road is at best not very bright, at worst it's downright dangerous. To recommend the practice to a new rider is irresponsible.[ /RANT]

[idleidolidyll]

Learning to read the tyes is a valuable skill.

The manufacturers recommendations are always conservative and serve to indemnify them against legal actions as much as inform the rider on correct pressure levels. If the manufacturers recs were to be taken completely as gospel, they would tell you to change your tyre pressures with say every 5 degree change in road temperature or depending on the road conditions (rain, surface etc).

The fact is that the 'correct' tyre pressure is wildly variable depending on the riding style, road surface, weather conditions, weights etc etc.

If you are a commuter who never really goes hard, setting to the recommended pressure from your book will be fine.

However, if you DO like to charge hard in the corners, it is MUCH more important to understnad the variables and what you can do to make your bike more stable and/or your tyres more grippy. There is a balance somewhere between high speed stability and grippiness in corners and the balance depends on how much emphasis you place on each end of the scale.
I am not much into speed per se. I'm always far more interested in a road full of 25-120km corners with no straights at all than doing 200kph plus on NZ roads. I therefore set up my suspension and set my tyre pressures to suit that kind of road and my kind of riding and I reset the tyre pressures (or at least check them) before EVERY ride depending on the weather conditions etc.

For me, typically my tyres don't start working well unless they are run at pressures in the low 30's or high 20's. The one pressure for every circumstance approach makes me bellow with laughter.

[NordieBoy]

Cool. Got my first ever "infraction" notice for my earlier 2 word reply.

For normal road use with a 120 width front and a 160 width rear and a 400cc class bike I'd be looking at low 30's (30F 32R) for traction and higher 30's (32-34F 34-36R) for tire longevity.

I think the thing is to start at a sane point and play with airing up and down to get a feel for what it does to your bike and your riding style.

[Pancakes]

The reason I didn't post anything was that it's all been said before in previous threads.

Tyres are designed to perform within certain criteria. Probably most relevant here is temperature range.

Some beginning racers may actually be better off with sports tyres than racing rubber as they can't ride hard enough to get the racing tyres into the temperature range they were designed to operate at. (That'd be me :-)

If you lived somewhere way out in the sticks where the hillbillies live it is just possible that you could get racing rubber up to operating temperature on the road regularly. If you live in a major urban centre though there is no way that can happen and the tyres will not be operating as designed. You'd be far better off with tyres designed for road riding.

Similarly racing rubber isn't designed for use in the rain. If you ride in the rain regularly you'd be better off with Sport Touring rubber which is specifically designed for wet weather use.

The more honest you are with yourself about how you ride, the better service you'll get from your tyres. There's probably more than one rider hereabout who lives a Casey Stoner fantasy and buys the stickiest sports rubber he can get. Because either their location or their ability hardly ever permit them to get the tyres up to operating temperature, they would be better off both as to performance and tyre life if they purchased less sporting tyres.

The tyre companies don't help with some of the florid language used. "Corsa" doesn't actually mean race, and "Qualifiers" are not qualifying tyres.

Using race rubber on the road is at best not very bright, at worst it's downright dangerous. To recommend the practice to a new rider is irresponsible.[ /RANT]

There are other threads about race tyres on the road, this is actually about factory or standard GN tyre pressures so I doubt that he would have searched "race rubber on road". Even though your reply is valid it doesn't answer the question. I feel like its been answered responsibly now, some good starting pressures have been put out there and also the ldea that you can play with them to a degree to suit your preference and style.

The "use the search function" or "there are other threads on this" is valid too... except that some people like to have a conversation not feel like they are going through some filing cabnets after closing time. I know I'd rather chat and be in a thread with people in it than be on my own scrolling through 10 pages of year old info.

Pritch I'm not having a dig, I just think there is more than one view of KB and lots of people see it as a social thing, which I agree with. If it was solely for reserch in the most efficent way most questions could be answered thru Google without KB at all, the "social" types seem to be getting a good hammering from the re-post and use the search function crowds at the moment, tyre pressures you could search for but so much random stuff I've never thought existed has caught my eye cos a thread was started and lots was re-posted but I wouldn't have thought to search it. There are also people like me who aren't that computer savvy who just don't have a clue!

so... um yeah....

cos gas stations tyre gauges are so outta whack I'd advise slightly overfilling them on your way home one night, getting your own gauge (store it so it won't get dropped etc) and then in the morning your tyres will be cold and you can de-flate them to the correct cold pressure. they will vary between 5-15% on the road from my experience bepending on how you ride, whether your ride gets them up to temp or not etc. Good luck with getting the bike set up for your own style, don't forget to set all the other bits, levers, shifter and rear brake etc for your own reach too, it'l make a world of difference!

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php?t=52469

[NordieBoy]

There are other threads about race tyres on the road, this is actually about factory or standard GN tyre pressures so I doubt that he would have searched "race rubber on road".

I thought it was a recently acquired FZR400 not a GN?

[Pancakes]

Yell whattaya know...... wrong thread. Soooo um yeah, my bad.

[Ragingrob]

Well I did ask about pressure for GNs too...soooo....yeah.

[Pancakes]

I bloody knew I wasn't going crazy, thought about opening the pages I'd already read to check but chose to say sorry and eat my jam crumpets instead. Hope the advice is working out for ya Rob-o.

[hang0ver]

I thought it was a recently acquired FZR400 not a GN?

Haha, me too...

Actually this is a thread on the use of track tyres on-road... :rolleyes:

_-H-_

[Ragingrob]

I bloody knew I wasn't going crazy, thought about opening the pages I'd already read to check but chose to say sorry and eat my jam crumpets instead. Hope the advice is working out for ya Rob-o.

Yeah hardout I pumped the rear from like 135KPa up to 210 and it feels way better!:rockon:

[cowboyz]

whats that in english?

[NordieBoy]

He went from 20 to 30 psi and it's much better.

[idleidolidyll]

He went from 20 to 30 psi and it's much better.

you're right

here's a calculator: http://www.csgnetwork.com/presskpapsicvt.html

he went from what most would call a flat tyre to one able to hold up the sidewalls.

19.6psi pumped up to 30.5

no wonder it feels better!

[NordieBoy]

Or google for "210 kPa in psi" :D
Google calculator is great.

[Ragingrob]

Yeah I was a bit confused at first too because it only had the reading in kPa at the petrol station, but luckily I had my manual with me and it's got both psi and kPa in it.

[Pancakes]

Oh yeah, at 20 it woulda felt like your riding on noodles!

[Ragingrob]

Haha yeah well it was when we had that terrible weather, my first rain experience, and I swear my rear just slipped out a little on like every corner!!!

[Pancakes]

Might have been or might have been rolling over or just running wide. In saying that once I'd had a GN for a few weeks I'd scrape the peg and pipe daily, they're real close to the ground. I had it drifting twice real good too, not deliberatly but held it out and didn't come off. Made some cars look twice tho!