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View Full Version : OMG!! Not another oil thread!



SVboy
3rd October 2007, 08:41
I have a k7 600 gixxer. Just had its first 1000k service. So-the shop uses ELF oil-no problem with that. Now-I will service it from now on, and I like Castrol products. I have always used them in my cars, and feel they are consistent and easily available. I have seached "oils" in this forum and decided that a high quality semi synthetic bike oil, in the viscosity recommended by the manual will be fine for what I need. Do people recommend the appropriate Castrol bike oil as good? I have no issues going to Motul, or sticking with Elf etc, but would like to use Castrol.{bit cheaper-easy to get from Supacheap} Your opinions please, particularly if you own a similar bike.......

NZsarge
3rd October 2007, 08:57
I have a k7 600 gixxer. Just had its first 1000k service. So-the shop uses ELF oil-no problem with that. Now-I will service it from now on, and I like Castrol products. I have always used them in my cars, and feel they are consistent and easily available. I have seached "oils" in this forum and decided that a high quality semi synthetic bike oil, in the viscosity recommended by the manual will be fine for what I need. Do people recommend the appropriate Castrol bike oil as good? I have no issues going to Motul, or sticking with Elf etc, but would like to use Castrol.{bit cheaper-easy to get from Supacheap} Your opinions please, particularly if you own a similar bike.......

I currently have a Castrol semi-synthetic in my bike and it's ok, up until the last oil change I had been running Motul 5100, also a semi. I've always run Castrol products in my cars and have seen for myself how good they are, big fan.
However I have found after trying Castrol in the bike it has a notchier around the 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears and I swear the noise from the motor is a little more metalic if that makes sense. I don't think this is bad per se, it could be down to differing viscosities between the two different oils but i'm going back to Motul, just feel a little more comfortable with the 5100 for some reason. Must say though it has not changed my mind about Castrol in the slightest, still think it's a top oil.

SVboy
3rd October 2007, 09:13
Cheers Sarge-this is the kind of input I wanted, and can relate to..

justsomeguy
3rd October 2007, 09:23
Motul 5100 10W40 (http://www.google.co.nz/search?hl=en&q=Motul+5100+&btnG=Search&meta=) :)

NZsarge
3rd October 2007, 09:34
Cheers Sarge-this is the kind of input I wanted, and can relate to..

No worries.

merv
3rd October 2007, 11:53
Use Castrol GPS the semi synthetic oil in all our bikes and no worries at all and a good price and easy to buy because its stocked at Repco and Supercheap so don't have to go far to get any though have to make sure I have a few filters in my cupboard first.

The Stranger
3rd October 2007, 12:08
However I have found after trying Castrol in the bike it has a notchier around the 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears and I swear the noise from the motor is a little more metalic if that makes sense.

Maybe a Yamaha thing? I had the same issues with the Fazer changing 1-2 and 2-3. That had Motul 15W50 in it from the shop.
I am now running Synthetic AMSOIL 10W40 and the gearbox is near as smooth as the GSXR. It's a little dearer, but being full synthetic, I will leave the oil in for the full 10,000 km instead of changing at 5,000 as i normally would.

klyong82
3rd October 2007, 12:45
Maybe a Yamaha thing? I had the same issues with the Fazer changing 1-2 and 2-3. That had Motul 15W50 in it from the shop.
I am now running Synthetic AMSOIL 10W40 and the gearbox is near as smooth as the GSXR. It's a little dearer, but being full synthetic, I will leave the oil in for the full 10,000 km instead of changing at 5,000 as i normally would.

Heard alot good thing bout AMSOIL on the Fireblade forums but yet to try it. Have yet to find a shop that sell AMSOIL maybe I am not looking hard enough

Pancakes
3rd October 2007, 13:05
AFAIK the multi oils have a base of the lowest viscosity and long chain molecule additives to give the high temp viscousity. From day one the long chains are being broken und the high temp viscousity is going down till its at the base weight. Tried diesel oils? Anything for allison clutches won't make your bike clutch slip.

The Stranger
3rd October 2007, 13:29
AFAIK the multi oils have a base of the lowest viscosity and long chain molecule additives to give the high temp viscousity. From day one the long chains are being broken und the high temp viscousity is going down till its at the base weight. Tried diesel oils? Anything for allison clutches won't make your bike clutch slip.


You are quite right when it comes so called semi synthetic oils. A 10W40 semi synthetic is a 10 weight disosaur base oil with additives that break down. Not so though with full synthetics.
The larger the multiple between the base (winter) weight and the high temp weight the more additives are used and the quicker it breaks down. A 10W40 (4 x base weight) will contain a lot more additive (the part that goes bad quickest) than a 15W40 (2.5 X base weight).

Diesel oil = good. Usually 15W40 and contains similar additives to motorcycle oils.

The Stranger
3rd October 2007, 13:34
Heard alot good thing bout AMSOIL on the Fireblade forums but yet to try it. Have yet to find a shop that sell AMSOIL maybe I am not looking hard enough

It's rare as rocking horse shit.

JDM Lubricants
118D Railside ave
Henderson
PH 8383833

SVboy
3rd October 2007, 14:34
Yes, the info we have on here is quite scientific re good diesel oil and full synthetics, however I tend to be a bit of a mainstream sheep. People are saying Motul 5100-is that full or semi?

Pixie
3rd October 2007, 14:54
Since Elf oil has been on the market,elves have been an endangered species.

It's not real oil,anyway.It's just nasal mucus

Pixie
3rd October 2007, 15:02
You are quite right when it comes so called semi synthetic oils. A 10W40 semi synthetic is a 10 weight disosaur base oil with additives that break down. Not so though with full synthetics.
The larger the multiple between the base (winter) weight and the high temp weight the more additives are used and the quicker it breaks down. A 10W40 (4 x base weight) will contain a lot more additive (the part that goes bad quickest) than a 15W40 (2.5 X base weight).

Diesel oil = good. Usually 15W40 and contains similar additives to motorcycle oils.

Any Multigrade oil,whether it's fully synthetic or semi or just plain mineral oil,has viscosity index improvers that will eventually break down and reduce the oil to it's base winter viscosity.
The quality and durability of the V.I. additive package is reflected in the price of the oil.

SPman
3rd October 2007, 15:30
After running Motul on the SP, I changed to Elf and found the gearbox a tad smoother and changes even easier. Last Castrol I used was in Mstriumphs 650 Bonneville..........

bane
3rd October 2007, 16:16
People are saying Motul 5100-is that full or semi?

semi I would think - most fully synthetic oils start with a 5W or less these days.


Use Castrol GPS (semi 10W-40) in all my bikes. No issues.

The Stranger
3rd October 2007, 16:39
Any Multigrade oil,whether it's fully synthetic or semi or just plain mineral oil,has viscosity index improvers that will eventually break down and reduce the oil to it's base winter viscosity.
The quality and durability of the V.I. additive package is reflected in the price of the oil.

A full synthetic will normally contain some Viscosity Index Improvers, though generally a lot less than a dinosaur oil, and yes they will break down, you still have to perform an oil change when using synthetic oils.

It was an attempt to convey a complex message as economically as possible.

The real issue (that I was trying to convey) is the loss of viscosity via break down of the additive package.
The dino oils in particular break down very fast.
According to some tests within 800 miles some motorcycle specific dino oils will retain only 70% of their viscosity. The synthetics in general, by comparison perform much better.

vifferman
3rd October 2007, 16:46
i'm going back to Motul, just feel a little more comfortable with the 5100 for some reason.
I like the smell.

Pancakes
3rd October 2007, 16:58
After running Motul on the SP, I changed to Elf and found the gearbox a tad smoother and changes even easier. Last Castrol I used was in Mstriumphs 650 Bonneville..........

Since NZ isn't really the harshest environment a bike can be exposed to and so long as you use a know brand oil that is the same as or close to the weight range the manufacturer recommends this is probably a very relevant test, the 'box action is the first, most noticeable and in most cases (placebo effect aside) the only difference people will notice between oils. So long as you do regular changes and the above criteria are met your engine isn't going to fail due to the oil.

SVboy
3rd October 2007, 20:45
Ok, so we have established I am a mainstream creature of habit and will go with a bike specific good quality semi synthetic. Soooo-any risk of trying different brands-same viscosity-or better to find one and stick with it...?

vagrant
3rd October 2007, 21:35
No risk in trying different stuff.
I ran my VFR on motul 41004T for years, but the Fireblade has been on Shell helix, Castrol something, and whatever Cyclespot put in it when I was too lazy to do it myself. I have not had any problems, or noticed any difference in the gearbox.
You won't know till you try.

Kwaka14
3rd October 2007, 21:38
I like the smell.

If you like the 5100 you want to smell the 300v, smells (and looks a bit like) like caramel