Fork problem?

[Folcan]

I noticed a on the ride with wild west honda to whangamata last sunday that when I came to leaning the bike over. the handlebars began to wobble abit. the wobble increases with speed and lean so if I slow down while leaning it stops wobbling. if I stay at one speed and lean more then it wobbles more

In a like uprightish positions theres no wobble. at any speeds that I have gone. which isnt very fast from 0 - 100ish haha about

Would this be caused by problems with the forks or something.

thanks

[MSTRS]

Perhaps. I'd suggest checking your front tyre pressure (30-34psi?) and very likely to have a poor wear pattern on the tyre sides...

[Folcan]

I run it at 32 or 34. whatever the manual said. The tyre tread is almost low and probably need a new one before the next wof. and theres chicken strips on the front too

I did have a leaking fork seal. which I have replaced, So I figured that it might be something to do with the forks.

[MSTRS]

I run it at 32 or 34. whatever the manual said. The tyre tread is almost low and probably need a new one before the next wof. and theres chicken strips on the front too

I did have a leaking fork seal. which I have replaced, So I figured that it might be something to do with the forks.

There's a clue...

[idleidolidyll]

I noticed a on the ride with wild west honda to whangamata last sunday that when I came to leaning the bike over. the handlebars began to wobble abit. the wobble increases with speed and lean so if I slow down while leaning it stops wobbling. if I stay at one speed and lean more then it wobbles more

In a like uprightish positions theres no wobble. at any speeds that I have gone. which isnt very fast from 0 - 100ish haha about

Would this be caused by problems with the forks or something.

thanks

It would be useful to know what bike it is. Your problem might come from a number of areas: tyres (pressure or wear), forks (unequal oil levels, poor damping, steering head bearing (loose or notchy), swingarm pivot (worn)

If you have a centre stand; put the bike on it and get someone to hold down one end of the bike. Then tyr to wobble the other end back and forward plus side to side. If you can feel any knocking or looseness, you probably have worn bearings.

Set your trye pressures to the setting in the manual and run your fingers over the tread near the centre but just to one side. Sometimes with various types of grooves, you will get a raised tread just as you start to lean and this can cause the wobbles at that point.

As for the forks, more complicated but a qick check first: With the bike off the stand and the front brake on, push hard and quickly down on the forks to try and compress them as far as possible. If there is a knocking feel, the re may be something loose inside. The forks should go down a little slowly because the compression damping will prevent them go9ing down really fast. They should also come back up a little slowly too as the rebound damping works. If they either go down or rebound back up very quickly (or both), the damping is either adjusted badly or internal seals are worn.

Do the same for the back end as sometimes bad damping on the back FEELS like a front end problem.

If you have a centre stand you can put the bike on that stand and hold down the rear end. With the front forks off the ground you should be able to undo the big top nut on the top of the forks. Take off just one nut and with a longish straight stick, dip it down into the fork and mark the oil level with a felt tip pen. Screw the cap back on that fork leg and do the same with the other fork. Both oil levels should be the same otherwise damping characteristics will differ between fork legs. DON'T take both fork caps off at the same time because they will be bloody hard to get back on again

If none of this finds anything, panic and ask for help again. :msn-wink:

[Folcan]

Its my VFR400

I saw you have to put 8psi or something into the shock. oops I havent done that since I replaced the seal. ill try put that in. would using a pump at the garage be alright to pump up the forks?

Thanks for the stuff to try.

[idleidolidyll]

Its my VFR400

I saw you have to put 8psi or something into the shock. oops I havent done that since I replaced the seal. ill try put that in. would using a pump at the garage be alright to pump up the forks?

Thanks for the stuff to try.

Best NOT to use a pump at the garage as they also pump in water which ruins the damping characteristics.

Use a bicycle pump

[Robert Taylor]

Its my VFR400

I saw you have to put 8psi or something into the shock. oops I havent done that since I replaced the seal. ill try put that in. would using a pump at the garage be alright to pump up the forks?

Thanks for the stuff to try.

There are 20 years of wear in those forks and they were always very undersprung. That will be excacerbated according to your personal stats. Air assistance in forks was always a shonky way of increasing spring rate, it is best to fit appropriate springs and therefore rid yourself of the problems with air pressurisation.

But previous suggestions by Mr Idle make sense.

[idleidolidyll]

But previous suggestions by Mr Idle make sense.

aww, shucks Robert, coming from a suspension guru like yourself I am truly flattered.

[Robert Taylor]

aww, shucks Robert, coming from a suspension guru like yourself I am truly flattered.

Credit where credits due but please dont get onto politics! Your side will be too preoccupied licking its wounds right now!

[disturbed]

any idea where i could get a new set of fork springs for my vfr and approx cost?

sorry for the hijack btw

[Robert Taylor]

any idea where i could get a new set of fork springs for my vfr and approx cost?

sorry for the hijack btw

I have options in stock, dependent on your weight and application. PM me for pricing.

[Folcan]

its me again.. still having fork problems again.

I replaced the seal on the fork that was giving problems a few months back. but it has started leaking again. I managed to get some time to have a look at it again and theres hardly any oil in it. I have another seal. Im guessing if I replace it again. it will just get broken again and leak in a few months time, any ideas on what to do?

another thing is when it comes to seperating the 2 pieces of the fork how do you get to the bolt that holds the 2 pieces together? the last time I worked on it I had to take it to a bike shop and pay for it to get done. didnt have a problem putting it back together.

[Gubb]

Try turning them upside down, I hear it's all the rage these days.

[Folcan]

nah my bike has enough hp. if I turn the forks upside down the bike wont be able to handle the extra hp :P oh and i got quite abit more old out of the fork

The seal is shot. its all weird like and the clip that goes on top of it was all rusted :S

[Robert Taylor]

its me again.. still having fork problems again.

I replaced the seal on the fork that was giving problems a few months back. but it has started leaking again. I managed to get some time to have a look at it again and theres hardly any oil in it. I have another seal. Im guessing if I replace it again. it will just get broken again and leak in a few months time, any ideas on what to do?

another thing is when it comes to seperating the 2 pieces of the fork how do you get to the bolt that holds the 2 pieces together? the last time I worked on it I had to take it to a bike shop and pay for it to get done. didnt have a problem putting it back together.

The lock bolt is in a deep recess requiring a long socket head allen key to access it. As the bike shop had to purchase that tool it is therefore reasonable that they charged you for the job, given also they are paying for the mechanics time.

If the seal is leaking again there are several possible causes;

1 ) Pitted or damaged tubes that in turn damage the seals

2) 20 years of fork bushing wear, more wear equals seal distortion.

3) The recesses in the outer tubes that the bushings sit in ( just under the seals ) could be flogged out.

4) Excuse me for saying so, possible poor installation. Proper suspension specialists have special installing tools that instal the seals squarely and evenly without disortion. Driving the seal in cold is also a no no.

5 ) Low quality aftermarket cheap and nasty seal? There are more than a few out there in the market.

6 ) Bug spatters on the chrome legs, contact with heavy duty cleaning solvents that harm the seals ( another big no no ) etc

7 ) Not replacing the first line of defence, the dust seals. These do wear out.

[Folcan]

well ive taken it all apart. apart from getting it seperated. and its all pitted. which is why the seal has gone again.

is there any hope for getting it fixed or is it not worth fixing it?

[Robert Taylor]

well ive taken it all apart. apart from getting it seperated. and its all pitted. which is why the seal has gone again.

is there any hope for getting it fixed or is it not worth fixing it?

New tubes ( if still available ) or rehardchroming and grinding to size. Used parts are usually a waste of time because they will have the same issues