View Full Version : 748 stripping :-)
scracha
22nd October 2007, 16:57
Umm. Busy stripping down the 748 to go racing. Buggered if I can figure out how the headlights etc come out. I've unbolted everything I can find but the electrics on the headlight cluster don't have anywhere obvious to de-couple.
HELP please.
lordandrevv
22nd October 2007, 17:37
maybe a workshop manual would be helpfull? lol have a look around, a popular bike so should be able to find one online. Even have a look at your local library catalouge (online), you would be surprised what you can find sometimes
Mumbles
22nd October 2007, 18:51
Hammer, wire cutters
Ok had a look you can download this manual but its a different bike, but apples are apples or close enough er? hope it helps :beer:
Ducati 749 Dark - Manual
Liquid cooled, four stroke, 90° L twin cylinder, DOHC, desmodromic 4 valve per cylinder. Marelli electronic fuel injection, 54 mm throttle body
http://pdftown.com/Ducati-749-Dark-Manual.html
scracha
22nd October 2007, 21:00
maybe a workshop manual would be helpfull? lol
Believe it or not I've downloaded the workshop manual but it doesn't seem to cover it. @#$ckin bizzarre. I'll go through all 475 pages of it again to check I've not missed it.
scracha
23rd October 2007, 09:37
It's a Ducati, so it won't make sense.
Remove the right footpeg and the headlights are sure to fall off and smash on the floor.
To be honest, I've been pleasantly surprised how simple and logical it's been so far. Compared to the CBR "designed by a masochistic Japanese micro-surgeon" 400 it's a doddle. The wiring harness has reusable rubber holders (much better than Jap bike cable ties) has mostly had nice simple electrical connections that just pop out, the fairing has fasteners that take about umm...30s to get them all off and pretty much everything can come off with just an 8mm or 10mm socket.
Now I'm sure the reason for this is that they need about 3x the servicing of a Japanese bike :Oops:
Now if I can just get the bloody clocks stripped :second:
Deano
23rd October 2007, 09:52
The wiring harness has reusable rubber holders (much better than Jap bike cable ties) has mostly had nice simple electrical connections that just pop out, the fairing has fasteners that take about umm...30s to get them all off and pretty much everything can come off with just an 8mm or 10mm socket.
You have to get some benefits after spending all that dosh mate !!
DUCATI*HARD
23rd October 2007, 17:48
follow your nose.:yes:
scracha
27th October 2007, 13:28
follow your nose.:yes:
My nose was blocked. Mate helped me out. Almost done. Mad dash for o-rings today as reconnected the fuel tank, turned on the ignition and the fuel spurted out about umm..3 feet. Tiniest wee nick in the fuel pump o-ring...amazing.
Now...where's the sponsor's ?
slowpoke
28th October 2007, 00:39
To be honest, I've been pleasantly surprised how simple and logical it's been so far. Compared to the CBR "designed by a masochistic Japanese micro-surgeon" 400 it's a doddle. The wiring harness has reusable rubber holders (much better than Jap bike cable ties) has mostly had nice simple electrical connections that just pop out, the fairing has fasteners that take about umm...30s to get them all off and pretty much everything can come off with just an 8mm or 10mm socket.
Yep, I remember workin' on my 916 and marveling at some of the trick lil' features. After busting my balls trying to get the seat cowl off a GSXR750 the simple 20second operation on the 916 was a revelation along with lots of other clever thinking. Talking to a Ducati tuner he summed it up pretty well when he said "It's a racebike, it's designed to crash well" meaning that you could replace most easily damaged parts with little time and effort. They aren't just a beautiful design but also a very functional one.
Nice bike scracha, enjoy.
mjvduc
28th October 2007, 07:33
HI,
simple:
head lights only:
just pull the whole thing out (carefully)
2 connectors located within your head light holder (depending also on MY)
you have also to disconnect one or two connectors at the steering head (left and right) and if I remember right :eek: one for the air temp sensor:msn-wink: as well but I'm not 100% sure as I do run on a carbon light holder.
start finish not more than 30min :niceone:
hope this will help
mjvduc
scracha
28th October 2007, 18:04
99.5% done. Thought I hadn't got the fuel pump sealing (changed tanks). Bloody fuel quick release plug thingie is cracked. Must have done it when I removed the tank. Seemingly it's a common thing to do <sigh>. Apparently Triumph one's fit so whatever is cheaper is going on. By gawd the fuel is under high pressure...shot a jet of fuel about umm...3 or 4 metres.
So hopefully I'll be out playing on it at Taupo on Thursday. :apint:
mjvduc
28th October 2007, 19:38
:Offtopic:
never had a cracked fitting, you will find some after market aluminium crap as well:msn-wink: I would reckon to find the manufacturer or supplier as original ducati parts are not that cheapish :eek:
It is also necessary to have spare o-rings handy, but they do fit almost everywhere so that's a good investment :laugh:
cheap tuning:
45/50mm collector and 50mm exhaust pipes without DB eaters
after market air filters, use the original holders and just get some foam (out of my head: Subaru has similar ones)
extending the intake runners will increase the mid range grunt (either buying or you can machine extension rings, start with 8mm)
racing eprom FIM..... or for a start increase the trimmer set-up (for start tweak it up by 1.5V)
ignitors: I use only NGK racing plugs but they are expensive (at least over here)
have fun
mjvduc
scracha
29th October 2007, 14:33
45/50mm collector and 50mm exhaust pipes without DB eaters
after market air filters, use the original holders and just get some foam (out of my head: Subaru has similar ones)
Noted ;) Pistons from the 916 would also be nice :yes:
extending the intake runners will increase the mid range grunt (either buying or you can machine extension rings, start with 8mm)
racing eprom FIM..... or for a start increase the trimmer set-up (for start tweak it up by 1.5V)
Dya know if the 916 and 748r "computer" are the same? Took mine off...chip's obviously been played with but noticed that on the back it's got the 916 stamps etc. Wont screw about with that setup until I've got peso's for a dyno as last thing I want to do is make it run weak. There's a huge flatspot at about 6-7K rpm.
ignitors: I use only NGK racing plugs but they are expensive (at least over here)
Everything seems expensive to do with bikes over here...sigh.
have fun
mjvduc[/QUOTE]
mjvduc
30th October 2007, 09:54
Noted ;) Pistons from the 916 would also be nice :yes:
guess why I run on 853cc :cool:
Dya know if the 916 and 748r "computer" are the same? Took mine off...chip's obviously been played with but noticed that on the back it's got the 916 stamps etc. Wont screw about with that setup until I've got peso's for a dyno as last thing I want to do is make it run weak. There's a huge flatspot at about 6-7K rpm.
out of my head :blink: only the twin injectors (per cylinder) are running on P8 composties, the rest of the family is using the 1.6er
try to adjust all variables as best as possible e.g. valve clearance, timing, throttle body, trimmer....................... this is crucial to have a smooth powerful running engine:2thumbsup
It doesn't make sense to dyno your bike if you haven't got a selection of EPROM's handy or even better a powercommander:mad: just tweak up your idle trimmer for a start (CAN RUN YOU THROUGH IF NEEDED) this will take only 10min if you have a volt meter and a little tiny screw driver handy.
Everything seems expensive to do with bikes over here...sigh.
I've worked in dorkland, so tell me about it :blink: even the wreckers are charging far too much:argue:
have fun
mjvduc
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