Jump-starting bikes?

[Mikkel]

As I left my office at uni today and got out onto the parking lot I saw this fella dragging his bike and of course asked him what was up.

He had a flat battery and we did what we could to jump start it - but to no avail. Unfortunately I didn't have any jump leads in my car or I would have given that a go.

So, I was wondering what is the best way to jump start a bike?
What gear? (Seemed that the wheel would just skid if we used 1st unless he was sitting on the bike and I pushed while run behind him - it was raining though!)
They do run on 12 volt I assume so using jumper cables with a car would be ok right?

[The Pastor]

I use 2nd or 3rd to push start bikes.

If you use first you kinda have to jump on it when you dump the clutch.

[kave]

I always jump start in 2nd, and I have had to do it a lot. You dont need a huge amount of speed to jumpstart either, normally I find that the equivalent of a slow jog is more than sufficient, it pays to get as much weight over your back wheel as you can to help traction.

[nodrog]

As I left my office at uni today and got out onto the parking lot I saw this fella dragging his bike and of course asked him what was up.

He had a flat battery and we did what we could to jump start it - but to no avail. Unfortunately I didn't have any jump leads in my car or I would have given that a go.

So, I was wondering what is the best way to jump start a bike?
What gear? (Seemed that the wheel would just skid if we used 1st unless he was sitting on the bike and I pushed while run behind him - it was raining though!)
They do run on 12 volt I assume so using jumper cables with a car would be ok right?

2nd gear is a better option for push starting. and if jump starting a bike with a car i always use computer proof leads and never have the car running, just to avoid any damage due to voltage spikes.

[Swoop]

Pretty easy.

A nice downhill incline is best... pushing it to the top of the incline is not fun.
Check fuel is on.
Check kill switch!
Ignition on.
1st gear selected with clutch held in,

When heading down the hill, release clutch and hey-presto!

[Mikkel]

Thanks a bunch fellas! :)

[paturoa]

Second gear, clutch in (or neutral) until up to a good speed, the dump the clutch at the same time as jumping onto the seat to increase traction.

If it is an injected bike, with an electrical fuel pump (ie all of them) and a really flat battery, don't bother.

[The Stranger]

2nd gear is a better option for push starting. and if jump starting a bike with a car i always use computer proof leads and never have the car running, just to avoid any damage due to voltage spikes.

Who's this using Gordies account?
A serious reply, no sarcasm, no inuendo or smut - WTF.

[Tank]

As I left my office at uni today and got out onto the parking lot I saw this fella dragging his bike and of course asked him what was up.


You know that he was probably stealing it right?

[xwhatsit]

As I left my office at uni today and got out onto the parking lot I saw this fella dragging his bike and of course asked him what was up.

He had a flat battery and we did what we could to jump start it - but to no avail. Unfortunately I didn't have any jump leads in my car or I would have given that a go.

So, I was wondering what is the best way to jump start a bike?
What gear? (Seemed that the wheel would just skid if we used 1st unless he was sitting on the bike and I pushed while run behind him - it was raining though!)
They do run on 12 volt I assume so using jumper cables with a car would be ok right?

No need for jumper cables, that's a pain in the arse. Got to find somebody else, a set of jumper leads, try not to fry your bike (bike reg/recs and CDIs seem to be pretty delicate, I've heard of these failing supposedly due to jump starting, YMMV).

I bump start my bike probably every 3 days or so, and certainly on every long ride. Once it's hot, there's no way you can start it off the kick until it's cooled somewhat.

Add to that it's a reasonably decent compression single (well, compared to ancient BSAs and GN250s), you've got to learn how to bump start properly.

I use 1st gear -- you may need it for the higher RPM it offers over 2nd gear if the bike is particularly stubborn. The issue with this is that especially with thumpers you will lock the rear wheel (as you found out). To avoid this, put the bike in gear and roll it back against compression until you can't go back any further. This means the piston is just after TDC; this way you'll get a full cycle and hopefully a spark before it hits compression again and the wheel locks.

In addition, if your bike is arse-light and a thumper like mine, the wheel will still lock (even in 2nd gear). So what I do is time the releasing of the clutch to when my arse crashes down on the seat side-saddle. Then carefully grab a bit of throttle after it cracks into life and swing your leg over the seat.

Way cooler than that electric-starter horseshit. Only girls and pansy-boys use them.

[skelstar]

Made some leads that are wired permanently to my batt and go up into the tail-section and end in two bullet style female connectors. They won't short. Made another couple of leads with male bullet connectors on one end, and a battery clip on the other - it sits in the tool compartment. Used them in anger today and it was FRIGGIN easy. :done:

Love Italian V-twins.

[mdooher]

My ST2 (No kick and electronic ignition) has one of those cigarette type connectors. I normally connect my trickle charger to this. I have made up a lead that goes into this thing and has battery clips on the other.

I have also made up a similar connection for the wife’s GSX250 and since we normally ride together we can just mate the two bikes if one is in need of a pick up.

If you are going to use the cigarette lighter power connector for jump starting you need to upgrade the fuse. The wires do get slightly warm during the jump but that’s all

[NighthawkNZ]

If its electronic ignition you need to have at least enough power to bring up the lights on the dash before you can jump start it... Else you will need to jumper leads.

I use 3rd or 4th to crash start, clutch in, push to speed, puff and pant... drop clutch while jumping on to give traction, give blurp on throttle... swear and curse... try again

[Mikkel]

You know that he was probably stealing it right?

Hehe, well he did have the keys... ;) (not that keys can't be stolen)

One thing about this bike was that it was impossible to turn the headlight off (it was dim, but still on) when the keys where in the ignition.

Of course something else could be wrong besides a flat battery. We couldn't get it going that's for sure.

[pritch]

The ease with which a jump start can be done depends on the bike.

Little two strokes, you can do it seated with a sort of duck paddle. With big thumpers your arse needs to hit the seat from a great height just as the clutch drops.

(There speaks the sad voice of Brit bike experience :-)

[Grahameeboy]

Thanks a bunch fellas! :)

V-Twins are not easy to jump start.....

If you use a car with jump leads, don't have the car engine running like you would have car and car. I was told you can damage the bike battery.

[Paul in NZ]

ONLY jump / bump start a modern bike if you have to and NEVER make a habit of it... Bike electrical systems are seldom as robust as car ones and it's a GREAT way to wreck your rectifier/regulator/alternator/ignition.

If the bikes having charging or starting issues - resolve the issue, don't keep flogging a dying system or it will fail!

Up to you of course....

[Paul in NZ]

V-Twins are not easy to jump start.....

If you use a car with jump leads, don't have the car engine running like you would have car and car. I was told you can damage the bike battery.

If it has a staggered firing order (like lump lump pause lump lump pause) put it in gear and push it forward through the two close compressions. Pull it backwards (ign off) to the compression, pull in the clutch (say 2nd gear) turn on ignition and push until you have a lick of speed on and leap onto the seat side saddle - as your arse hits the seat pop the clutch and get ready to catch the engine on the throttle when it fires.... Slip clutch, left foot onto peg, swing right leg over seat and ride away cool as a cucumber to outpatients for hernia treatment - easy...

[Grahameeboy]

If it has a staggered firing order (like lump lump pause lump lump pause) put it in gear and push it forward through the two close compressions. Pull it backwards (ign off) to the compression, pull in the clutch (say 2nd gear) turn on ignition and push until you have a lick of speed on and leap onto the seat side saddle - as your arse hits the seat pop the clutch and get ready to catch the engine on the throttle when it fires.... Slip clutch, left foot onto peg, swing right leg over seat and ride away cool as a cucumber to outpatients for hernia treatment - easy...

Even fat arse Boomer could'nt do it....trick was to park my bike, got a lift home, got car, jump leads etc. Ride bike home and walk back to car to collect later.......

Too old to be getting my leg over twins to get them into action!!!!!

[skelstar]

I know flame had a team of young men trying to bump start her bike (RSV1000) downhill, but it would just lock the back wheel up. Had to settle for jump-starting of a GSXR. I'll not even bother with trying to do it myself.

[xwhatsit]

Bah it's not that hard. Even with yooooj high compression thumpers it can be done. Just learn what happens in the four-stroke/Otto cycle and then you'll know what to do.

It's just a knack to learn, like kickstarting an old Brit; pansy boys with their modern electric starts and power-ranger suits don't seem bothered to learn about what's going on inside their bikes.

Why not get an AA membership in that case.

Christ I sound like my father :lol:

[mitchilin]

If it has a staggered firing order (like lump lump pause lump lump pause) put it in gear and push it forward through the two close compressions. Pull it backwards (ign off) to the compression, pull in the clutch (say 2nd gear) turn on ignition and push until you have a lick of speed on and leap onto the seat side saddle - as your arse hits the seat pop the clutch and get ready to catch the engine on the throttle when it fires.... Slip clutch, left foot onto peg, swing right leg over seat and ride away cool as a cucumber to outpatients for hernia treatment - easy...

That's a great description.I used to see how far I could ride sidesaddle because I was so knackered I couldn't get my leg back over and I thought it looked kinda cool riding around like that.Nowadays I can sit on the Katana and push two or three steps and pop it like a two stroke.The first fifty times are the hardest.After that you just learn exactly what to do.

[mitchilin]

Bah it's not that hard. Even with yooooj high compression thumpers it can be done. Just learn what happens in the four-stroke/Otto cycle and then you'll know what to do.

It's just a knack to learn, like kickstarting an old Brit; pansy boys with their modern electric starts and power-ranger suits don't seem bothered to learn about what's going on inside their bikes.

Why not get an AA membership in that case.

Christ I sound like my father :lol:Don't know about that mate.I could never bump my old DR 500.Had enough trouble kicking it.

[Paul in NZ]

I know flame had a team of young men trying to bump start her bike (RSV1000) downhill, but it would just lock the back wheel up. Had to settle for jump-starting of a GSXR. I'll not even bother with trying to do it myself.


If I can bump start my Moto Guzzi at 3am at the servo at Bulls in the pissing rain when it has a weeks luggage aboard and I've just ridden from Auckland I'd be prepared to try and bump an 'pillia... mind you - the seats a bit taller and I'm not

[smoky]

If it has a staggered firing order (like lump lump pause lump lump pause) put it in gear and push it forward through the two close compressions. Pull it backwards (ign off) to the compression, pull in the clutch (say 2nd gear) turn on ignition and push until you have a lick of speed on and leap onto the seat side saddle - as your arse hits the seat pop the clutch and get ready to catch the engine on the throttle when it fires.... Slip clutch, left foot onto peg, swing right leg over seat and ride away cool as a cucumber to outpatients for hernia treatment - easy...

just be careful which leg you throw over - or you'll be facing the wrong way

[Max Preload]

My ST2 (No kick and electronic ignition) has one of those cigarette type connectors. I normally connect my trickle charger to this. I have made up a lead that goes into this thing and has battery clips on the other.

Is that a factory fitment? If it is, I'd be surprised if it's live with the ignition off.


2nd gear is a better option for push starting. and if jump starting a bike with a car i always use computer proof leads and never have the car running, just to avoid any damage due to voltage spikes.

Not necessary if you follow the correct procedure. With the donor vehicle and the dead vehicle swtched completely switched off, connect the positive dead to the positive donor battery, in that order. Then connect the negative donor terminal to a good connection point on the chassis of the dead vehicle (footpeg is good on a bike - you can connect directly to the negative terminal but there's a risk of sparks on disconnection igniting the charging gases).

Start the donor vehicle, hold the revs up to about 1/3 of redline, then start the dead vehicle.

Removal of jumper leads is in the reverse order of connection.

[johnnyflash]

Much depends on the bike, many of the larger cc bikes have slipper clutches, (to deal to kickback on starter motor)and trying to crash start one of those is difficult, (not impossible but..) much simpler to use a jump lead and another battery or vehicle.. bikes dont draw much current compared to a car or truck so the leands dont need to be heavy at all..

[smoky]

For some reason my bike won't start with a push - trust me I've started plenty of bikes in the past and couldn't understand why it wouldn't start.
I was talking to another biker a few weeks ago and he was telling me that his bike can't be bumped as you need 12volts to make the ignition circuit 'active' before anything will happen?
others tell me it's all tied up with the same safety circuits that won't let you start the bike with out pulling the clutch in, and kills the ignition system if you put the bike in gear with the stand down.

If you use jumper leads – there’s a couple of safety tips you should observe; have everything switched off (key off) when connecting the jumper leads
Always make the connection to the bike first then connect the live to the positive of the other vehicle, then connect the leads from the negative of the bike to the frame, or an earth bolt/nut, of the other vehicle – not the battery.
That way you avoid making any sparks around a battery. If there is a short or fault in the battery or bike, and there is some acid gas build up around the battery, and you make a spark - it can blow up in your face – not what you want.

Hope that helps

[Max Preload]

Much depends on the bike, many of the larger cc bikes have slipper clutches, (to deal to kickback on starter motor)...

OTT but that's not what a slipper clutch is for - I think you're thinking of a sprag clutch. A slipper clutch is a torque limiting device to stop your rear wheel skipping on downshift while braking - it doesn't freewheel.

[Max Preload]

For some reason my bike won't start with a push - trust me I've started plenty of bikes in the past and couldn't understand why it wouldn't start.
I was talking to another biker a few weeks ago and he was telling me that his bike can't be bumped as you need 12volts to make the ignition circuit 'active' before anything will happen?
others tell me it's all tied up with the same safety circuits that won't let you start the bike with out pulling the clutch in, and kills the ignition system if you put the bike in gear with the stand down.

Some bikes are trickier than others, but I've never seen one that can't be crash started.



If you use jumper leads – there’s a couple of safety tips you should observe; have everything switched off (key off) when connecting the jumper leads
Always make the connection to the bike first then connect the live to the positive of the other vehicle, then connect the leads from the negative of the bike to the frame, or an earth bolt/nut, of the other vehicle – not the battery.
That way you avoid making any sparks around a battery. If there is a short or fault in the battery or bike, and there is some acid gas build up around the battery, and you make a spark - it can blow up in your face – not what you want.

Wrong order. The negative to chassis is on the dead vehicle end, and the last connection made, and first removed.

[johnnyflash]

OTT but that's not what a slipper clutch is for - I think you're thinking of a sprag clutch. A slipper clutch is a torque limiting device to stop your rear wheel skipping on downshift while braking - it doesn't freewheel.

bummer..... slipper of the tongue :lol:

[smoky]

Some bikes are trickier than others, but I've never seen one that can't be crash started.
If you gotta have the clutch in before you can make the ignition circuit - how you gonna drop the clutch then!! Haven't worked that out yet.


order. The negative to chassis is on the dead vehicle end, and the last connection made, and first removed.

In theory - as I was taught, your correct - but due to the nature of some bike electronics I feel more comfortable, and better results by dropping the connections onto the bike battery posts first (good solid connection to the bike battery) - then make the connections on the other vehical, last connection to an earth point. The risk of making the last connection to the earth point on your bike is your completeing the circuit on the faulty vehical and stray voltage/current is more likely to damage your electronic bits.

but your correct according to the experts

[Paul in NZ]

Christ I'm glad all my bikes are dirt simple....

[Rhino]

Wrong order. The negative to chassis is on the dead vehicle end, and the last connection made, and first removed.
Correct. Way back when I was an apprentice auto-electrician, that was the sequence that was taught.

As was mentioned, never complete the circuit by connecting a lead to a battery terminal as it can ignite any gases due to recent charging of the battery. I had been an apprentice for all of around two weeks when I blew up a massive tractor battery by connecting it to a charger that was still turned on. The roof was around 10 meteres high and the top of the battery hit it.:gob:

[mdooher]

Is that a factory fitment? If it is, I'd be surprised if it's live with the ignition off.




Yep factory fit...yep live with ignition off.... yep I’ve upgraded the fuse on the bike and put a smaller one in my trickle charger cable. Since I don't use the power socket for anything else this works well for me.

Adding a water proof connection that looks like it belongs to the GSX250 was much more interesting...

[SVboy]

Had to jump start my sv650 once-my fault-park lights left on. Couldnt push start it for the life of me! Ended up with my lungs hanging on my chest like deflated rugby balls! I wondered-between bouts of self applied cpr, if fuel injected bikes needed a minimum current if there was to be any chance of a push start. Ended up jump starting it, being very wary of frying the cpu, but there was no drama.

[vifferman]

I spent too long last night with the key turned on and the engine not running while I was diagnosing an electrical fault in the confirminators. No real surprise this morning then when the engine wouldn't turn over fast enough to start. I didn't even bother trying to bump start it. Got the keys to #2's Peugeot, moved the remote reservoir for the Elka out the way, and connected negative to negative with the jumper leads. Stuck the positive on the Pug's battery, couldn't get the positive clamped on the VFR's battery, so held it there while I pushed the button. No problem.
It's almost never necessary to have the car running while using jumpers, as bike's started don't draw huge amps, so voltage spikes aren't much of a danger.
I've had to bump and/or jump start every bike bar I've owned, and the only ones that have given me any grief with starting have been the VTR1000 and the VFR750. The VTR was very hard to bump start: if you didn't leap up in the air so your full weight landed on the seat as you let the clutch out, it would just skid the back wheel. Always used 2nd or 3rd gear on every bike, as first is too prone to locking up the wheel (plus that's the way I was taught).
The VFR750 wasn't hard to bump start, but was problematic to start if you ran the tank dry, as the fuel pump only ran when the engine was running. :weird:

[Swoop]

I spent too long last night with the key turned on and the engine not running while I was diagnosing an electrical fault in the confirminators.
Yup. Guys over at VFR World saying 4-5 mins at idle (not the x3 twit) is enough to suck the power out of the battery. Gotta love the powerful headlights on modern bikes.
My 750 has a proper lightswitch, Off/park/on, to alleviate that hassle.

[Pancakes]

If you gotta have the clutch in before you can make the ignition circuit - how you gonna drop the clutch then!! Haven't worked that out yet..............

Yeah but the ignition circuit isn't being used. You bike runs with the clutch out a? Your just going directly to run with a bumb start and yeah, singles need a good bounce on the seat and 3rd is fine and easy for less sporty bikes.

[Subike]

Only ever tried it once on my yammy exsessive,never again, It worked , second gear, down hill, touch of the trottle, shit a brick!!! Hang on fast !!! I only weigh 74kg, so the bike a little heavey for my weight, but when it got going, it was off! I hung on and hit the kill switch, option was to let go and dump....not a choice. So I will NEVER try to crash start my beast again. Bought a new battery the next day. No more problems.

[McDuck]

I have jumped off a car before. I just did it the same as i would a car.

[Pancakes]

I have jumped off a car before. I just did it the same as i would a car.


You can go "out" more off a car cos you don't have to worry about the stand breaking. :laugh:

[McDuck]

You can go "out" more off a car cos you don't have to worry about the stand breaking. :laugh:

You should see me play a cello on a bike....:2thumbsup